“fixing” a SEIZED brake caliber for $3 bucks (complete diagnostics)

[@mmantov]

You win the award for Best Edited Video. Not a second wasted with gibberish. I didn't have to fast-forward like I do for most videos.

[@lowkeehkis2454]

Tik tok brain😂😂😂 kidding

[@th3r0d]

2nd that

[@dave-d]

Excellent presentation. No muss. No fuss. Thanks for not wasting any time or bombarding us with crap music / intros / egos! Good work Bro.

[@royrobinette7833]

Brake hose on that side

[@DeusTex-Mex]

This man showed yall how to fix ya car's seized brakes for THREE DOLLHAIRS and you're all jumping to criticize! Good on him, man's a real fixer not a parts cannon operator. And now he's still got the money he saved on those calipers.

[@thesetruths1404]

This is the best complete and concise DIY on wheel stiffness cause I've found on the Internet. I had an issue with occasional noise and heat from one wheel hub. I thought initially it was bearing (only has 60,000 miles on new bearing) but then determined it was sticky brake caliper. Bravo!

[@thesetruths1404]

@@calwatch1496 it actually ended up being a stuck caliper and the bearing lol

[@shinygoldshoes]

Fabulous video! No silly talk about silliness or overproduction, just straight and to the point good information! You just saved me a ton of time!

[@LaurieFloodTeacher]

I really appreciated how you took the time to show what proper performance in a caliper would really look like and what poor performance looks like. This is the first video where the poster didn't assume that the audience would know what good and bad performance in a caliper looks like.

[@jjstak98h]

Nice, straightforward and to the point. I hate wasting my time on videos that have useless parts. Every second here had a point.

[@Horsemanpro63]

great video, you went directly through the process, didn.t waste time on chatter, and explained the problem and the solution. Basically this video gets to the point and doesn't make you sit for 45 mins to see the results, thank you.

[@dave-d]

Absolutely. No crap music or shouty people. Just the facts. Rare!

[@devinpaisley]

Amen!

[@moss8448]

One thing I learned rebuilding a caliper piston is to not let the pedal go all the way to the floor. I went through several master cylinders (the NAPA guy at the counter thought they were bad masters) before I was told by a brake mechanic after explaining my issue, he said 'you're blowing your master cylinder seal when you go all the way to the floor, put a brick or block of wood behind the pedal to stop it from traveling all the way to the floor.' Sure enough by doing that it didn't blow out and was able to unfreeze both front calipers with those kits saving several hundred dollars.

[@vanwahlgren8451]

Good point thank you

[@papimasfuerte4671]

That's not true. Master has internal stop. You did not bleed the master before putting it on, thinking your master is bad.

[@moss8448]

@@papimasfuerte4671 that MGB one had no stop it would go all the way and blow out the seal. went thru 3 til an old 'canic standing there said put a brick behind the pedal so it won't go to the floor. I had also did a bench bleed each time before buttoning it on. the brick deal worked in that particular case.

[@wonderwalls3565]

Nice to see someoen who actually tries to fix things rather than replacing parts.

[@colebraman597]

I really appreciate your approach. Straight to the point but also including all the information you need

[@TheLaidbackBiker]

With brake parts that look and function like that and with the relative low expense of all new parts, caliper, rotor, bracket, pads it just make more sense to buy and replace with new parts. I mean we are talking about brakes and the safety issue involved. I'm talking from over 50 years of experience of replacing, and dealing with brakes of all types. This video was good from the standpoint of showing how disc brakes work, which is nice for those who never saw this or didn't know how they worked.

[@donziperk]

Absolutely agree with you . Brakes and steering are not the place to cut corners.

[@k9under]

@@donziperk Rebuilding your caliper is probably better than buying all this new crap from china.

[@lloydbrown9327]

I agree, the time you spent on repairs ,better to get new parts!

[@frankhoward7645]

Sorry, but I disagree. While the brakes may look old and rusty, all that matters is if the cylinder bore is in decent shape and the rubber parts are renewed.

[@Denise.Taylorx88]

Yeah, I am not putting that crap back in a vehicle… would not re-use any of those parts and there were literally no brakes left either… 😅😅

[@moerizk3753]

Man the pacing of this video is great. Quick simple explanation and presentation.

[@John223]

That screw and plate tool is so cool. I was struggling to get a piston open and never thought of something like this. I came for a bite of knowledge and I'm leaving with a full belly. Thank you!

[@Tarsen-qb2ub]

props to you dude, and anyone who has the time a patience to do this. At this point I think I'd still rather just get a new caliper, but if I was flat broke, this is what I would be doing.

[@VoodooZ]

Mind you if you can afford a new caliper you might as well pay a mechanic to do it too. My new caliper (most likely refurbished) came with a seized piston so you never know..

[@sunilcherianpullockaran8817]

I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.

[@sfcd4757]

Interesting story

[@lothianmcadam1]

Thanks for taking the time to post your experience. I have the EXACT issue with my 2000 Accord as you had with your Chevy: The caliper will not retract after the brakes get hot. Before I found this video I performed the same repair to the piston, followed by a complete brake job for prudence sake. Immediately after a test drive the calipers would not retract and the wheel would seize.

[@sunilcherianpullockaran8817]

@@lothianmcadam1 has your issue not been rectified. If not then you need to sand down the pistons further as in my case, I tasted success only on the 4th attempt at sanding down the pistons.

[@VoodooZ]

Having the same issue with brand new (probably refurbished) front dual piston calipers for my WRX 2017. and of course they won't replace them because I arleady painted them. :( I've ordered new seals just in case and I won't have a choice to rebuild or unseize them now.. thank god I still have working old ones to drive in the meantime.

[@eaglebride]

Excellent video. Lots of great information and no useless filler.

[@donovanhenry6613]

My brother in Christ, you are driving on iron dust and prayers. Replace everything as soon as possible

[@melodyyoung9640]

This is normal in some places, replaced parts would be rusty in a couple of years anyway

[@ausbcorner3629]

What a great video with perfect diagnosis of problem instead of just replacing calliper but you never know what was the fault so that's the professional way to do a job.

[@andrewfava6226]

Great little video packed with helpful info and no waiting for the good bits - it was all good! Excellent! Thank you.

[@automatic7713]

EXCELLENT.. The best kind of video.. punchy, straight to the point, absolutely NO EXCESS waffle or meaningless intro which I hate ! Most US clips start with at least 2mins of obvious chat like " today, the weather's fine, so I'm gonna get to work on this here ole car blah blah" .. cut to the chase FGS. .and thankfully, you did.

[@joegatrill6634]

Superb editing! I learned more in 5 minutes than i used to in a whole day of school. Cheers.

[@danieldesimonedanny1827]

Fixed 100s during my working days. Rebuilt calipers where pretty cheap and a quick fix. The sliders are often overlooked.

[@poolpoolification]

guy thinks brakes are fine? crazy

[@anotherm2722]

Good info. Sometimes, the rubber brake hose going to the caliper can fail also.

[@nickteetsel563]

You should be the only man making car tutorial videos

[@DintClempsey]

Was looking how big a job it would be to rebuild. Very informative video thank you so much. It’s helped even if only to show me that it’s not worth the time and effort when a new calliper is £35

[@coasterjunkies]

Told the wife her caliper was frozen she send me a video of a link to repair and rebuild a caliper. I sent her the address to the Autoparts store and told her the caliper is waiting for her at the counter.

[@kwacz]

I just replaced brakes that were worn all the way down to metal pad. Caliper looked fine, compressed very easy. Moved in and out smoothly but would cause brake to drag when brake was released. After playing with this for a couple days I just replaced the caliper, but never saw anything wrong with it. Problem is now gone. Seems like the piston would only stick when under a load but when caliper was off vehicle worked perfectly.

[@dopiaza2006]

Soemtimes piston will only stick when they get warm. Tiny amount of sticking and/or usign the brakes creates heat, which causes more sticking. It's a vicious circle. I'have had cars where the wheel was almost too hot to touch after a drive but next day jac the car up and all is free. New piston or calliper is the only fix really.

[@Mulesandmustangs]

Never knew about having play in the pads & the clips that hold em in. Just did my brakes yesterday and it was a snug fit in the clips. Going to take everything off tomorrow and make it right. Thanks for the great video.

[@dopiaza2006]

They should be a sung fit If you have play that's how you get brake squeal.

[@rasmadrak]

Be very careful when pumping out the piston completely. Worst case is it'll smash your fingers if the pressure is high enough.

[@justarandomguy3969]

why the fuck would you have your fingers in the way?

[@frankhoward7645]

I believe that's only if you use compressed air to drive out the piston.

[@BriarHood]

Just stick something in the caliper where the brake pads would be and shoot some air where the brake line would go.

[@johndelong5574]

Brisk to the point editing, real world solutions. Perfect vid.

[@ghahandi]

That whole set-up appears to be on it's final days.

[@donjulio5045]

Set-up is about to Break-Up

[@matth4784]

You must be from California or Florida. By Chicago standards that bad boy is just getting started

[@illiniwood]

@@matth4784 Fluid Film the crap out of it once a year if you wanna keep it long term.

[@gabriels335]

"nice and smooth"

[@waynebinky]

Looks a lot like my 20yo car's brake calipers. She's been nursed along for the last 5 years with annual cleaning and lube of the sliders when the tires get switched but this year, she is getting all new coated calipers, rotors and shoes. Be good for another 20 years ;)

[@russoft]

this is amazing! I'll remember it for my next brake job. I generally don't mind spending the money on a new caliper, but if I can save a pile of money, I'll happily do that instead!

[@ronysmith1]

Nice! And Concise! I like that you're to-the-point.

[@lorettacaputo6997]

Nice video. You are the first presenter that I have seen who addresses the grinding of the tabs of the brake pads to insure movement. When I got my Nissan X terra, every time that I needed new pads this was a critical part of the process. Just did a brake job on the vehicle and I still have some brake noise. I rebuilt the last set of calipers, so now I will swap out the current with the rebuilt then rebuild this set for future use. I prefer to work on the bench rather than on the vehicle.

[@mkl5448]

I too, like some of the other folks commenting, feel like a new caliper makes much more sense here. I would just go for a rotor, pads, calipers, bracket, and call it a day. Easily less than an hour of work per side, more money, but its all set for another decade with periodic checks in between. Just my opinion. Interesting video though, very good information and alternative.

[@dennyspasseto]

Excellent diagnostic explanation. Thank you!

[@aaronjump2193]

Great work! I'm so glad I found this. Great to see every detail and with speed, and the reality that everyone doesn't have money to just get a rebuilt caliper where they do the exact same thing and charge you $80+.

[@aaronjump2193]

@@calwatch1496 for example and to remove unnecessary steps; like replacing all 4 brake pads at the same time, might be ideal but life isn't ideal and the calipers adjust so it ultimately matter. Some people might only have 3 bucks and etc.

[@philliptoone]

Wow, very thorough and concise. Thank you for such a good video.

[@lothianmcadam1]

EXCELLENT VIDEO! I have this EXACT problem on a 2000 Accord--same wheel! After I replaced both seals the wheel STILL seizes after a test drive, immediately after the brakes get hot. I've done this same job twice, completely replaced the brake fluid, and performed a complete brake job, and the caliper will not retract after the brakes get hot.

[@michaelreeves8164]

Looking at the caliper and rotors, I as an amateur mechanic would have bitten the bullet and replaced everything from the brake hoses out.

[@carlosspiceyweiner3835]

hoses cannot last more than 15 years or 125,000 miles. And they can be the reason your pads will not release

[@waynebinky]

@@carlosspiceyweiner3835 Highly doubt it being the hoses. I replace them if they start to get dried out and show signs of cracking. I have 20yo (360km) and 30yo (120km) vehicles and they are still fine. The 30yo went through a safety check 3 years ago and passed with flying colours. Replacing hoses can get ugly so why do it if it's not necessary?

[@ReddNashe]

I think his point was that if you can't afford the new parts and have the ability you can still make it through.

[@ReddNashe]

​@@carlosspiceyweiner3835 great video but I was thinking that too.

[@michaelallen5505]

I see mechanics going 50/50 on using brake grease on the pad ears. Bendix recommends using grease on top of the clips (shims are actually what you used to put on the back of the pads) in their KZbin video, Bendix Brake Pad Installation. I use a wire wheel where the pad clips attach to the caliper bracket and use brake parts cleaner to remove every bit of rust. Then put a little ceramic brake grease where they contact the bracket and use a little on top of the clips like in the Bendix video. I also like to remove the slide pins, flush the hole with brake cleaner and blow out with compressed air, clean and lubricate the pins with Sil-Glyde. Make sure the top of the pistons are clean but be careful about damaging the boots or damaging the pistons if they are phenolic, not metal. Most quality modern pads don't require adding anything to the back to quiet them, they are pre-shimmed. Also very important to check the hoses if the brakes have been sticking. The 3 main reasons for sticking brakes are stuck pins, stuck pistons or bad hoses that have collapsed on the inside.

[@connor3288]

I have been a mechanic for years. I do not recommend using brake lube on the the pad ears, but instead under the shims that the pads slide on. The issue that happens over time is the uncoated steel under the shim rusts and expands, pushing on the shims/pads making them tight. The proper solution is remove the shims, clean the rust, grease where the shim goes, then reinstall shims. This prevents the rust buildup under the shim. The shims always seem to be stainless steel in my experience and dont rust, pads slide easily across them without lube. The lube on pads can attract dirt and grime and be counter productive. I have not seen any new cars where the manufacturer greased the pad ears, but they do grease the slider pins obviously.

[@TheCaperfish]

100 %. , so in vid he grinds pad ears down lol. NO NO NO remove abutment clips and clean and lube underneath them if not they will rust jack yer pads from moving ,

[@connor3288]

@@TheCaperfish Yeah with high quality brands/pads/hardware you shouldnt have to grind pad ears to fit good. Sometimes the cheaper pads are not made as well with more variance in dimensions though.

[@jimtheobald1141]

So if the caliber is clean and you install new clips and the pad is tight on the bracket maybe the pads are a little to big I do grind the pad down a few times. Master tech working at the largest dealership in the Minneapolis area

[@sfcd4757]

Interesting. I never heard that before about lube and i've done hundreds of brake jobs. I will try that next time under hardware and not on the ears.

[@fakeaccount8342]

Take a wire brush to the caliper bracket and spray with brake cleaner. Use Syl-Glyde for guide pins. ALWAYS lube under the shims AND the ears with antiseize. Auto Technician since 1994

[@haydenbrooksarenburg3024]

I suspect my RR caliper is seized, I've been noticing some squealing and I'm just praying I don't need to replace more than that. Excellent video, helped calm some of my nerves about this. I'm probably going to go check it out in a little bit while there's still daylight, and I'll check some of the easier ones as I'm still a novice (I'm an absolute tool, but as is the case with tools, at least I'm still useful!). Thank you so much for this short video!

[@horacesawyer2487]

If I was going to all that trouble I would take that rusted scaling falling to pieces to Caliper and apply RUST CONVERTER then paint it. You would have a brand new setup. However, I'm not the one who made a great video. Great job. Lot of work and good explanation.

[@fakeaccount8342]

Sand blast them first, then paint and rebuild. 😎

[@paulhead]

Straight forward thank you. Didn't get a story teller about how his goat ate his roses.

[@whaleoilbeefhooked3892]

I had a nightmare similar. In the end it was the rubber hose itself breaking down internally that caused a check valve effect where it took a minute (or so) for enough fluid to return to release the brake caliper pressure, whereas pressured was instant. New hose, no more problem.

[@justarandomguy3969]

thanks, i will remember this for the future

[@californiadreamin8423]

I’ve had this same problem twice. A simple solution but only after a mechanic friend suggested the problem.

[@dave-d]

Sneaky! Well found.

[@saulmarques1934]

Awesome, my Ford is giving me a brake that feels like a piston issue. Now, after watching your video, it will be a piece of cake diagnosing it. Thank you

[@tomkoolman]

Very informative video, good job. But for me, I would replace it with a new one instead.

[@Dave5843-d9m]

I rebuilt a brake with silicone lubricant spray and ruined it. The piston came out nicely but had no slip-back. The seal was sliding too easily so the brake wasn’t releasing. I had to replace the piston bug using just brake fluid and red rubbed grease was the correct way to go.

[@ronmoore6598]

@4:35 In my, admittedly limited, experience, getting that boot installed completely into the groove is Way harder than you make it look (a critical step to keep water out). Also the pits you saw, and buffing the piston (will reduce the diameter and max pressure before leakage) both can allow leakage into the boot which could eventually blow it out. All this together means I'd rebuild another caliper if new is unavailable.

[@msain427]

They're like 40 bucks in Biden Money

[@frankhoward7645]

I disagree. Reducing the outside diameter of the piston won't affect it at all because it's the rubber O-ring that makes contact with the bore, not the piston. The only thing that would hurt would be if you reduced the diameter of the piston groove.

[@ronmoore6598]

@@frankhoward7645 if there is a pit or a low spot there's still a chance of leakage. Not worth it on something as important as breaks.

[@frankhoward7645]

@@ronmoore6598 I'm not talking about the bore. You said, "Also the pits you saw, and buffing the piston (will reduce the diameter and max pressure before leakage) both can allow leakage..." Buffing the piston resulting in a reduced diameter will not allow leakage because the piston doesn't contact the bore. The rubber O-ring does. If the diameter of the rubber O-ring was reduced (most likely through wear), THAT would allow leakage.

[@ronmoore6598]

@@frankhoward7645 Yeah, but if you're buffing the piston with, say, a Beartek pad, it can easily remove enough material to make a flat (or flatter) spot on the piston, which the O-ring can ride over or produce lower pressure against, allowing leakage into the boot and possible blow out. You do you, but, again, with something as important as brake it doesn't seem worth the risk to me.

[@LyonhartZ2]

What a great video. I do the same on old rusty Motorcycles.. Except I only clean everything out I rarely get new seals (They get pretty expensive and if the originals are good, I keep em) I would have definitly removed the caliper for cleaning on the bench instead

[@24revealer]

I appreciate the video. Thanks for making it.

[@ThunderbirdRocket]

Extraordinary detail ! Super helpful !! I learned lots !!! Thanks mate . 👊🏼 🔥 🧰

[@SiNo621]

Hi great video, when you retracted the caliper, did you keep the bleeder screw lose?

[@chaunceylocklear3661]

well done. Nice editing to make it concise.

[@fredbergeron2193]

underated channel bro i live in northen quebec my shit cant last.... great video straight to the f point

[@jamalknowles5683]

Nice video thanks for this. This truck seen better days.

[@robertstephensoniii3681]

Obviously you rebuilt the caliper so it should work like new but are the pads supposed to be dragging at the end when you demonstrate that the rotor spins?

[@okdoky6472]

Yes, the pads will always drag slightly when you spin the hub, but you should always be able to spin it by hand. If you ever have this same issue, it's much easier to just go buy a new caliper for $30, especially when one was in as bad a shape as this one was. But he rebuilt it... that works too. It's cheaper to rebuild but faster to replace the caliper, just depends if you have more money or more time. As for me, I have hardly any time, but l got $30.

[@jontewatson6434]

Yea is drags..cause if working right the piston of the caliper release the pads slightly just a little so that the pads are open but resting on caliper

[@robdobson5419]

@@okdoky6472 may I ask where you are getting calipers for $30? The cheapest I see for my car are remanufactured and they are around $59 a piece. Brand new are between $80-130 for OEM.

[@htsauce420]

@@robdobson5419 His car's calipers cost $30, not yours. I'd also add ceramic Akebono brake pads to keep things quiet.

[@connor3288]

@@robdobson5419 It will vary wildly depending on the year make model trim of vehicle. On my 04 wrangler rubicon i think i paid about $160 for 4 Raybestos reman zinc coated calipers, through rockauto. Stay away from a1cardone i have heard bad experiences with them. I was going to rebuild, maybe paint mine, but for $160 it made more sense to me to buy them. They were all rusted badly.

[@ShukokaiStu]

Excellent! Very well explained and demonstrated Thank you!

[@PenntuckytheCrag]

Great lay out of info. Good job

[@JDye-youtube]

I use an instant read thermometer to initially determine if I have a dragging brake. After driving, touch an instant read thermometer to opposing disks and see what the temps are. One that’s dragging will be much hotter. A shimmy in the front wheels while driving down the road will often indicate a dragging brake also.

[@kestutissimkus7088]

Great job great video!short and simple video !!!! Every word that came of mans mouth was worth 100$

[@b_gumm]

Award winner for best edited video I've ever watched

[@alanhayward6719]

Outstanding helpful video, many thanks!

[@Thankyou_3]

This is great example of neglected brake service in the rust belt. Folks, at least every couple years get your brakes serviced front and rear.

[@connor3288]

Define serviced. Salt is hard on cars. Especially caliper pistons and uncoated rotors. If you change brake fluid ever year or two, MAYBE it would prevent seized pistons from rust, i just don't have the data to track that. I think brake fluid should be changed every year, it is super cheap. And a little antiseize on bleeder screw threads keeps them from seizing👍

[@andreipiv]

It has nothing to do with brake fluid. Brake service is taking the brakes apart - take out the pads, caliper, bracket. Remove all hardware and clean up all the rust. For bonus points remove the rotor and clean behind it as well. Unlike this guy, if the pad doesn't quite fit, don't grind the ears. What you probably need to do is clean up your bracket because it has rust build up. Then things should be nice and smooth. The only exception is if you got cheap hardware and the sizing is whacky

[@Thankyou_3]

@@andreipiv You have accurately captured the definition of brake service. I think that is why American brand vehicles are targeted as poor built quality, I think a big percentage has to do more stringent service intervals on Japanese vehicles that is why they are more reliable. Both continents have duds and it is weeding out the crap and taking the cream puffs.

[@fakeaccount8342]

I'm from Boston, the salt is brutal here... I always tear down my brakes to clean and relube once a year. Never had any problems.

[@themodfather9382]

99% of mechanics just completely ignore rust.

[@adsosa2414]

Why didn't you replace the rotors?! They were shot! Otherwise, nice to see how to rebuild the caliper. Thanks.

[@poolpoolification]

he seems to think they are fine - crazy

[@livestock9722]

@@poolpoolification They worked, didn't they? Really only a safety issue when they warp, mind you not a good idea to wait that long...

[@poolpoolification]

@@livestock9722 either you have brakes or the pedal goes too low due to pads gone or no brake fluid

[@JakeStewart1343]

He doesn't replace, he rebuilds 😂

[@fakeaccount8342]

If there's no pulsation or vibration you can just sand them a bit by hand to remove most of that shit and it'll be fine.

[@stevejones1318]

What if the manufacturer no longer supplies seals? My 1976 Gold Wing for example. What do I ask for at an engineering supply company?

[@XhibitOneProductions]

yoooo....that's A LOT of rust on that rotor, especially those brake pads that's as a Hot N' Ready cardboard pizza. 😂 Nontheless, thank you for sharing this video with us!

[@MIchaelWIlliams-ix4ys]

Thanks for the video , well done for taking the time.

[@bezkintsakintsa357]

for those of you watching, this is a WHOLE day affair, sometimes just worth it to get a new caliper.

[@rasmadrak]

I agree. In case there's a broken seal/rubber or any corrosion is found - a new caliper is almost always a better choice.

[@MartinX192]

1 maybe 2 hours if you have the correct polishing tools

[@livestock9722]

Unless you have a Land Rover, and no one but a stealership will sell you front calipers for grossly overinflated prices.

[@bezkintsakintsa357]

@@livestock9722 ahaha land rover is def the exception. Not a ford or a civic

[@rasmadrak]

@@MartinX192 It depends on what type of rust and how deep it goes. Anything below surface rust is a big no-no.

[@tinagane6424]

No messing about, great video

[@otofoto]

Piston is retracted by piston O-ring. It slightly twists when force is applied and when untwisting it pushes piston slightly back and prevents brake drag. Worn O-ring doesn't work so well as has rounded edges. So everything should be smooth. You should be able to push piston back by hand(use a handle) without need for special tool. If special tool is needed O-ring or piston is bad.

[@WorldPowerLabs]

I don't miss working on Rustbelt cars... good information, though.

[@frankhoward7645]

4:40. I ALWAYS apply anti-seize to the bleeder screw threads for obvious reasons. Had too many break off!

[@sheba6779]

Hi great video 👍🏼. I have a 2008 Honda Civic 1.8l and I’m having issues with the calibers sticking. I installed new calibers, slider pins, rotors, brake pads and both front brake line hoses. I’m still getting sticky calibers causing the rotors to get hot while driving. I did a complete brake flush to make sure there’s no air in the lines and filled the brake fluid reservoir to the correct full level but can not seem to find the problem. There’s no leaks around the master cylinder, no ABS or break lights on and the brake lines look good. Brake fluid runs through the front and back brake lines properly. I’m stuck on this one. If you or anyone have any ideas on what my issue is can you please let me know. No codes Thank you.

[@NIN_THUG]

One thing I learned recently is you should use silicone for the guide/slide pins, and additionally make sure there is no grease/silicone down at the bottom otherwise it will make pressure and push the pin back out. FYI

[@otofoto]

Piston is retracted by piston O-ring. It slightly twists when force is applied and when untwisting it pushes piston slightly back and prevents brake drag. Worn O-ring doesn't work so well as has rounded edges. So everything should be smooth. You should be able to push piston back by hand(use a handle). Also brake pads should slide easy.

[@dzmitry21]

Very well explained, thank you!

[@JLange642]

Yes- I agree this is a great video on how to diagnose and repair, but I also would have just put a new caliper on that due to it's condition. (That one set of pad were wasted to the bare metal!) Still, good to see how to do it IF you chose to.

[@ShooterQ]

More good info in five minutes than most mechanics will give you in a lifetime.

[@quadrant2005]

Reminder, take the lid of the Brake Fluid reservoir. because on some vehicles you can burst the reservoir while doing this process.

[@YoungShizzie]

Yea I’m hearing a clanking noise I’m my front drivers side breaks don’t know if it’s the break pads or the rusted caliber on my 2004 Honda accord ex sedan 2.4l v4 but something is grinding when i break

[@Matt-w7p]

Great video, no messing

[@chenupy77]

Hi Thanks for the post , is that AWD Honda, Coz i have same situation for my Subaru outback , The Rear wheels are very tight to sping when thyey are jacked up in Parking ,

[@JAndrioli]

ive owned a pilot just as crusty or more. im so happy i dont have it anymore. this is a problem that kept coming back every year. how many hours of my life i wasted on those brakes... arffff in my experience the grease does not help. It only contaminated the pads when it rained. Also the guide/slide pins get stuck when the inner rubber seal (yes inside) swole up. Get rid of it. I used a sandblaster to clean the calipers when I rebuilt mine.

[@LJT9393]

Are you pressing the pedal with the cap on the master cylinder off? I’m sure you pulled it to compress the piston. Can you press the pedal with the lid off?

[@carolinawestern3875]

Had the same issue (front left) but fully released it by opening the line. Replacing the master cyl. cured it. But don't know how it could make only one caliper drag. 2 days later an identical year, make, model truck had the same problem and cure. 2006 Chevy HD2500

[@hansenhollla6705]

Thanks for sharing valuable information. I’m sorry the commenters went to this weird “THROW IT ALL AWAY” place. Why do that when you don’t need to for some pocket change?

[@ThomasNappo]

Great detailed video..😊

[@helpfulhippo3744]

Here is how I quickly diagnose and then repair: 1. Large difference in thickness of inner and outer pad = Slide pin issues = SERVICE SLIDE PINS BOTH SIDES, make sure slide pin boots are not cracked or torn. 2. Even pads in caliper but difference in thickness side to side = sticking caliper, or unlikely brake hose issue = REPLACE BOTH CALIPERS ( not worth the time to service, calipers are generally cheap and 1 hour trying to remove, resurface pucks, replace seals, and very likely service a broken bleeder = waste of time ) NOW... IF BRAKE FLUID WAS CHANGED EVERY TIME BRAKES WERE SERVICED, I DOUBT THIS WOULD EVEN BE NEEDED. 3. Rotors look like these = REPLACE THEM !!! It's not worth having an accident because your braking is diminished by rotors not making full contact with the pads... My rule of thumb, replace rotors every 2nd pad change, flush fluid ( most cars can gravity bleed ) every pad change to keep your calipers from getting sticky. By doing this you keep moisture out of your parts and ABS systems can be expensive to repair... A can of brake fluid is about 6- and if you do it every time you service front or rear brakes you likely will not have bleeder issues either... My 2cents.... Having an accident because your brakes aren't working 100% is a bad bargain, for likely $150- per axle and an hour or two of your time could save you thousands in accident damage and prevent you from hurting yourself or your family.... Driving a car with these rotors, and pads worn to the metal before repair seems to me to be irrresponsible....

[@hnng3919]

When you remove the caliper (or brake hose) to work, what about the leaking fluid? What if the leak empty the reservoir? Or goes down too low? Thx

[@sammylove14]

Holy moly that’s a lot of work!

[@bottmar1]

Over half of the replies here are obviously from people (the sky is falling !- the sky is falling!) with no experience as they do not know how good this video displayed type of service works. Some are stupid enough to think that new brake fluid keeps the bleeders from rusting solid. The pistons stick from rust forming between the dust boot and the piston, not in the bore itself. And NO, buffing the piston does not decrease it's size and increase the chance of leakage under high pressure. What imaginations some of you beginners have.😂

[@mateckz]

where did you get that tool to press the piston for the caliper back in? those look neat.

[@JP-xv8he]

Definitely not worth the time and headache to rebuild a $75 part. So much easier to just replace it. High marks for the proper troubleshooting process though!!

[@oatnoid]

Jack Webb Awarded Video. Just the facts ma'am.

[@ronfazer2423]

Nice video and analysis.

[@LingoENT]

I learned more than what I came here for 💪🏿💪🏿

[@jonathankuhn2180]

I thought this style of video was cool. Quick, lots of info points. I could also appreciate a slower video, but this was cool, I liked it so much I subscribed.

[@ILoveChanelLynn]

Thank you so much for your video! Helped me complete my brake pad job! You are Awesome! 🫡👏🙌

[@miguelcuts6156]

Sir can you include real time lapse. How long did this take you be honest, you had to start So you moved the jack Also picked up the car Then took off the wheel So what was the real time Completely for 3 bucks?

[@justtisha]

Love this video. Love the tips