Diagnosing the Inspection Failures on my X-type Estate

[@johndavey72]

As usual Adam . You never have a problem , always a solution . Lets hope the second hand unit works !

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thanks John! Yes there is always a solution

[@brummiesteve590]

As an X Jag owner I love your videos. Xj40 and XJS HSE A great uncle had a Dam/Jag dealership. So loved them since the 60 s as a kid. His car mark 10

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Glad you like them! Thanks for watching

[@RickCT2000]

Great progress. I am confident that these problems will not get the better of you and your lights will level and your tires will rotate freely. Great video. I learn so much from the way you diagnose and fix problems. Better than any channel I watch. Thanks Adam.

[@donswork3059]

We all do

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thank Rick! I'm glad I can teach some things with my videos. All the issues should be solved pretty soon.

[@Saaketti]

Booster that brokes this way seems to bee quite common broblem on these cars. Hopefully the salvage part is not broken same or different way. As othe guy commented the washers and thick O-ring is okay fix for this. Or try to move the rod back further in. But that can easily be impossible task. You do not need to shut down engine to read codes from a car. Lights do not need to be turned on to read up codes or anything else in that matter. In fact keeping current draw on lowers battery voltage what is bad to do code read and especially when writing up stuff to modules. Lever sensor is nothing else than a pot as you said. Backprobing it wil give you close to 0-5V signal voltage by moving the arm. While you are there it is good practice to clean all of the rust away from the arm balljoints and grease them up. Those plastic arms tends to broke when ball joints rust solid.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I hope so too!

[@donnysweekendvanlifetravel7854]

A great video diagnosing problems brake booster is always tucked away hope it solves your problems all the best donny

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thanks Donny!

[@jaguarrroman]

Good luck with your MOT, Adam! Sometimes the rear brake calipers are sticky since the parking brake levers don't return to their places.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Rear brakes were fine here, just the fronts sticking a bit from the bad brake booster.

[@jaguarrroman]

@@LivingWithAClassic And do they detect sticky calipers during passing MOT? At my country only brake effectiveness matters. And the most important is emissions test, but well-functioning catalytic converters devour CO down to 0.001%.

[@8000Christopher]

Thanks Adam. I am not mechanical, but I do enjoy your videos, you explain everything in such a way as even I can get the drift of it. And there is always a mystery to the problem. Keep up the good work.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Thanks! Glad you like them

[@alexandrecouture2462]

Adam, you'll be so so happy when the S-Type will be gone. It'll make a lot of space!

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Yes I will be!

[@jeffharrison5265]

Great progress. Fingers crossed the other brake booster works.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I really hope so too!

[@lionelguilbert6493]

Nice work. Sometimes I wonder who is behind these required items for inspection... I understand safety issues like brakes and lights, but a tow-bar lock, really? How does that affect safety? Could it be a strong lobby of the specialized lock makers? Anyway, I enjoy living in a location that does not have these MOT inspections....

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I think yearly inspections are great! Wouldn't want to drive somewhere knowing that the cars weren't checked yearly. However, the tow bar thing is pretty ridiculous.

[@richardkirman4442]

My servo did the same thing when I bled the brakes. I inspected the master cylinder and found that when fixing it back on the servo it was applying the brakes slightly. This is apparently due to a seal in the servo dislodging slightly. After hearing what a nightmare servo replacement is, I used two washers and a thick o-ring the right size. Issue fixed, all sorted. HVe driven over 1000 miles all good. When you bleed the brakes, don't push the pedal further than normal travel. Hope this helps.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

It wasn't be who bleed the brakes first and hence why it broke I think. Thanks for the tip!

[@parrotraiser6541]

The mystery persists, at least as far as the headlights are concerned. The diagnostic system doeasn't seem very well designed if major faults don't produce any signals.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

I agree with that, wish I got a fault code. But I think I have solved the issue and you'll see that in a future video on this car.

[@brummiesteve590]

Hi Adam. Would you not be better getting trader insurance. Cover all cars you drive upto a certain BHP

[@LivingWithAClassic]

Would cost to much for me to get it here. It wouldn't really work as I tend to keep cars a long time

[@Nick-bp7jf]

Hi. How do you rate the 'icarsoft' diagnostic tool? Thanks.

[@LivingWithAClassic]

So far it has been really good! Used it on a few Jaguars and a Range Rover. It has done everything I have needed so far.