Lofrans Manual Windlass Demonstration

[@ShesTheSkipper]

You are a legend. Just bought a boat with a manual windlass and this is EXACTLY what I needed to see. Thanks mate!

[@edlampkin]

There have been many comments about the audio quality. Please know that there are many subscribers to your videos who do not expect perfect cinematography. Most of us watch happily to learn new things and who understand that making and posting videos is a labor of love done without ever expecting to profit from them. Keep up the fine work!

[@chriswatts1412]

People will find something to complain about even with free education from the master himself.

[@mbiriviri]

Thanks. Very helpful and straightforward (and no problem hearing you)

[@Flyingsailordiver]

Hi James we met down in Trinidad 20 years ago, just after you bought that Schooner built in the Jungle in Guyana. Great to see you still sailing. People probably don't know just how long you have been doing this stuff. Keep up the good work. Fair winds. Regards Hyde

[@atomvoyager]

Good to hear from you Hyde. We all had lots of fun mixed with boat work and some drama in Trinidad in 2000. Good times.

[@victorvazdepinho1161]

Thank You! I truly enjoyed your presentation and the demonstration.

[@mattwatson7106]

Thanks for the very clear demonstration. I have the same winch.

[@sepharad58]

Bravo and thank you for an exemplary how to video. Give me wind and wisdom over annoying music and pretty videography.

[@SailingSarah]

I have the bare bronze version of this windlass. It's a beast!

[@wobbbbler]

It is possible to run a cable from the cockpit to the lever of this winch in order to anchor alone, while at the helm

[@atomvoyager]

Might be possible but unlikely to be practical. It's very rare when a quick dash from helm to windlass and back to helm is not good enough and I've never found the need for it during my solo circumnavigation and all the other solo passages I've made on my 28-footer. On a larger boat it can get more tricky sometimes but you should be able to pick your spot so you have some room to drift.

[@claypass8424]

I'm planning a trip to the Bahamas, hopefully positioning at Jekyll Island by the end of the year. I want to sail offshore directly to West End, but some have suggested Green Turtle Cay check-in. Do you have recommendations for this route, where to cross the Gulfstream and what weather to look for in January? I want to stay within a 3-day weather window if possible and also considering fatigue while most likely single-handed.

[@atomvoyager]

I've sailed to Bahamas a couple times from Brunswick, GA, once by going SE until reaching GS then E across the current then resume SE course once clear of the GS and arrived at Marsh Harbour, Abacos after 4 days nonstop. The other route is to harbor hop down the FL coast and cross to West End from Lake Worth, West Palm Beach. Mid winter is not the best time because of long delays waiting for weather windows and once you get to Abacos the frequent cold fronts make it difficult to find protected anchorages with little fetch for strong shifting winds. Too many details and variations to type it all here. If you want to discuss it further, email me through atomvoyages.com and we can arrange a phone call.

[@PawlSpring]

Does the windlass need all chain? Is the winch on the other side for rode? Curious how it would work with chain + rode. Thanks for the video.

[@atomvoyager]

It works best with all chain for the primary anchor since you don't need to make an awkward switch under load from chain wheel to rope drum, but you can do that if needed. Easier with all chain on the starboard side and use the rope drum for a secondary anchor that is mostly all nylon rode on the port side. The drum can also be used for other winching tasks.

[@elprincipio]

Is there some video that would demonstrate retrieving the anchor with manual windlass?

[@atomvoyager]

At 1:30 I show how to retrieve the anchor by placing the handle in the hole near the drum and cranking. It's a slow process but nothing more to it.

[@elprincipio]

@@atomvoyager indeed. Cheers!

[@chandlerabney4195]

How would one use the warping drum on the side?

[@atomvoyager]

Typically it would be used to retrieve the second anchor of mostly nylon rode if you used one. The second anchor rode would be led through the port mooring chock if you don't have a second bow roller. It would also be used to retrieve a drogue or para-anchor on the port side. It can tension a halyard when replacing headstays, etc. If you have a long nylon extension on your primary chain then you can lead it at an angle to the rope drum and then move it to the chain wheel when you get to the chain. It may rub on the headstay turnbuckle or furler link plates but should still work. The windlass handle is operated the same way for rope or chain but the chain wheel brake only releases the chain wheel so to let out the line on the rope drum you just slack it by hand as on a normal winch.

[@1981seafarer]

This is a prime example of why it is better to dub over the original video with commentary. It is hard to hear what you are saying whenever 1) You aren't facing the camera 2) The wind blows into the mic 3) The chain rolls noisily through the wildcat However, thank you for the video- it shows that a manual windlass might fit well on the foredeck of my Cal 29.

[@atomvoyager]

Brian Hollinger Thanks for pointing that out. My editing skills weren't up to dubbing over at the time so I'll outline the steps here: 1. Release the windlass brake with handle to slowly feed out chain, slowing the rate of chain fall to allow the wind or current to pull the boat back after anchor reaches bottom instead of dumping all the chain on top the anchor. 2. I use black cable zip ties to mark the anchor chain every 25' (one tie for 25, two for 50', etc) 3. Tighten chain brake once you have at least 4-1 scope, depending on conditions, and attach snubber line if staying overnight to reduce chain rattling noises and take shock loads off windlass. 4. Retrieve chain by placing handle into hole next to windlass rope drum and crank back and forth. Yes it's slow! 5. To add a snubber line you can either attach a three strand nylon line about 20' long to the chain in front of the windlass with a rolling hitch or an eye splice shackled to a chain hook. Cleat the end of line to a bow cleat and ease the windlass brake until the rope is tight and then pull out a couple extra feet of chain by hand to allow it to hang loose in the water. Tighten brake.

[@claypass8424]

Hi James ... Just installed this manual windlass on my Alberg 30, much as you did on your A30 refit project. I noticed on both boats you are not using a chain stopper. Is a chain stopper necessary and what would you recommend? Where would you put it if you did use one? Also, where do you store your handle for the windlass so it's not lost overboard? Thanks!

[@atomvoyager]

We normally use a nylon snubber with chain hook to a bow cleat to take the load off the windlass when anchored so no chain stopper is needed. Underway we take a lashing line to secure the anchor. A chain stopper gets in the way. I return the windlass handle to store in a canvas gear bag in a cockpit locker but have friends who tie a lanyard to it and leave it on deck next to the windlass and only return it to a locker if going offshore.

[@SuperBullyone]

nice winch setup.

[@andreblum]

I loved the part where you showed lifting the anchor. Which is what a winch is all about, right?

[@atomvoyager]

At 1:27 I showed a few seconds of cranking the chain in. If I would have showed hoisting the anchor you would have bitched that it was too long.

[@andreblum]

@@atomvoyager fair enough! Thanks for replying

[@thejensens4402]

@@atomvoyager How long does it take to hoist the anchor in 80 feet of water or so?

[@atomvoyager]

@@thejensens4402 In two circumnavigations I've never had the need to anchor in over 60' and only once in waters over 45'. If you were in 80' of water for some reason then you'd have close to 300' feet out. Small boats never carry that much chain because it's too heavy and not needed for most of us. It takes about 5-7 minutes of cranking to raise each 100' of chain and you'd need a breather now and then so it might take 20 minutes. Most people with that situation in mind would prefer an electric windlass used while the engine alternator was charging the battery to keep the voltage up for such a long haul. Even then you'd have to pay attention to the windlass motor duty cycle and maybe pause it as need to prevent overheating.

[@BRRR410]

Would you recommend a manual windlass for a 38' sailboat?

[@atomvoyager]

Most people today prefer an electric windlass on boats that size. I have seen manual versions used successfully on larger boats though so it's a matter of deciding if you want speed and ease as well as more power (on large versions) over simple, less expensive, more reliable, easier installation, independence from electric supply. The Lofrans Royal is not rated for boats over 35' and I don't know who makes a more heavy duty model these days. If you go electric, I'd get a maxwell that comes standard with manual ability. The lewmars charge extra for that and are not as well designed or built IMO. If you go with a manual Royal or other manual, you need to be patient and use the inertia of the boat and engine to assist raising the anchor. By using the right technique, I know I could get by with the Royal even on your size boat. I just can't recommend it for people that may have different expectations and abilities.

[@kissi7474]

Thanks for posting this! 👍🏻

[@todmills]

Hi, James, great video. The sound is fine for me. With the Lofrans Royal, you know the part with the hole where you stick the handle to crank? Is it possible to assemble it so that the range of handle movement is rotated back a few degrees? (to keep the handle away from a solent stay when the handle is pushed forward. My solent stay splits into an upside down Y a couple feet above the deck). Normally, the stay would not be there when anchoring, but I figure it would be best if there were no interference anyway, just in case. Also, is there any reason you wouldn't mount your cleat on the forward side of the windlass? Thanks, Tod

[@atomvoyager]

I didn't show it in the video but there are no stops or limits on the travel of the handle so no problem there. The owner of the boat did not feel it worth the trouble to move the cleat from its original position but you're right, it is awkwardly placed. It wasn't shown here but I normally wrap the snubber around the horn of the windlass and not direct to the cleat. On most boats since then I usually add two bow mooring cleats, one on either side as you can see in later videos on my channel.

[@btclbrty3051]

Excellent! Thanks

[@pmisko01]

I am finishing restoration of an Allied Seawind 32. Displacement of 15000 dry. Would this windlass be too light for this boat? I'm not afraid of a manual windlass and this one seems to be the one I would choose but I don't have any real knowledge of windlass ratings. I also don't know the size gypsy or the size of chain/rope rode to use. Any suggestions or information would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

[@atomvoyager]

I don't think there's a problem using this on your AS. On the site below they rate it to boats of 35 feet. For your boat I would select 3/8 HT chain. But you could get by with 5/16 HT if cost and weight were a major concern. Although 5/16 is strong enough for most situations on your boat it's amazing the shock loads on a chain on short scope wrapped around a coral head during retrieval in choppy waters or if a swell is coming into the anchorage, which is likely to be your worst case loading scenario.Also, as the chain begins to corrode, with 3/8 you can afford to let it rust a long time before its remaining strength becomes an issue. When ordering you specify the chain wheel type for the chain you want to use. www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276145%7C3693565&id=540964

[@pmisko01]

atomvoyager thanks for the suggestion! I went ahead and bought the lofrans royal manual windlass with a 3/8 ht gypsy. She’s a beaut! I’ll be installing it this spring. Having a bit of a hard time with where to place the windlass on deck. My boat is a cutter rig with the club footed boom on the foredeck. The ideal place would be right where the foot of the staysail boom is mounted on deck. There is a nice clear area on the aft section of the teak bowsprit in front of the foot for the boom where I could mount it. The chain would fall into the forward part of the anchor locker and then slide down the bow and pile up. Before I start drilling and cutting holes in the deck, does that placement seem like it would work alright? Also, I bought a Rocna anchor (45 pound) after researching and looking at different anchor sizing charts. I always wonder though if a 55lb would have been a better choice?

[@atomvoyager]

The Rocna 45 should be adequate. Once you have picked out the best spot on the bow for the windlass to allow easy operation, if the deck chain pipe is too far forward in the chain locker you can attach a large PVC tube under it at up to say a 45% angle to direct the chain aft. How you do that is up to you and the particulars of your chain locker. If you have any further questions you can email me thru the contact button at atomvoyages.com

[@huubluikenaar176]

@@atomvoyager hi nice video. question where can you buy the deck transit? I mean the system with the lid. thanks for your response!

[@atomvoyager]

@@huubluikenaar176 It's called a deck chain pipe. The round ones are hard to find and there's not clearance for the hinged version. Here's a link to the type I've used on other boats: www.amazon.com/SeaLux-Marine-Stainless-Steel-Chain/dp/B07CWBGD3J

[@tomharrell1954]

Hi AV BESIDE the noise issue why do you use a snubber to keep tension off the wench?

[@atomvoyager]

Silencing the chain would be reason enough but it also takes the loads off the windlass gears and absorbs shock loads from wind gusts and waves so the anchor doesn't get jerked out of the bottom as easily. In calm conditions you can forego using the snubber.

[@ryanstubblefield8593]

Great information! Thanks

[@Laser78]

Many thanks great video, I have to do a yacht handover tomorrow and the manual is next to useless

[@TheClangerseatGreenSoup]

awesome

[@danacoyle7179]

In the shot of the bow you had two cleats not one someone I really don't think it was you remove the spacer placed the winch on the deck itself and aligned it once again you don't show you doing any of the work?

[@atomvoyager]

The teak block under the windlass provides clearance between the chain wheel and the deck chain pipe to get the chain pipe cap off and on. On some later boats we placed a cleat on each side. I'll do an installation video on the next boat perhaps but this was just a operation demonstration.

[@danacoyle7179]

atomvoyager it's not the same as in the other video in the other CLIP the fore deck had different bow sprit the winch was pushed nearer to the stem this video show the winch about 2 feet back with only one cleat not two as in the first video I've been on boats since I was 18 months old my dad was a master ship builder and I was raised working on types of boats I still do not believe he did the work not seeing him do anything but help with the woodwork sanding and painting

[@edenhunter9904]

incorrect cleat hitch

[@robertcoles9662]

It is stupid to show neophyte you can touch or hold the chain with bare hands! I have seen more accidents around windlasses than with any other piece of equipment! Otherwise, thank you1

[@atomvoyager]

+Robert Coles It just isn't practical to never touch the chain on this model windlass and deck chain pipe installation. If you are saying gloves should be used, it's true you reduce your chances of injury if you get your finger pinched between the chain and chain wheel. But thick gloves are also awkward and may increase your chances of entanglement. When retrieving chain on a manual windlass even a stupid person would have trouble injuring himself. I suppose it is equally stupid not to point out that by far most accidents happen with electric windlasses. Otherwise, thanks for warning the neophytes.

[@mrwrapper]

With the few eletric windlass, i try never to touch the chain. Are you saying that with this, you must handle the chain? I really am trying to avoid the complexity of Electric winches. Nice video, very informative.

[@atomvoyager]

As I tried to point out in my previous comment, it isn't very practical to never touch the chain. You can handle the chain in a safe manner if you can understand the very simple ways to do it without risk of injury. Just like you have to touch a loaded line on a sheet winch, there are right ways and wrong ways. Yes, clumsy people get their fingers broken in sheet winches all the time, but that doesn't stop the rest of us from handling the winch without injury. It's just common sense, not complicated. You can develop techniques to minimize the need to touch the chain if that seems important to you.

[@captlarry-3525]

two words: wind screen , foam rubber, mic cover, wind noise, do over.