A Backyard Chat w/ Joel Tudor | Presented by DAYBREAK

[@PaulCarterArt]

Great reality check for all generations on surfboards, surfing and a lifestyle.

[@mitchellmabry912]

“Riding small boards - that shit runs its course quiiiiiiiiiick”

[@tonybeatbutcher]

Big Up for asking "who sanded it?" or "who put the finbox?", cause those are 2 jobs apart from glassing and shaping.

[@shirtlessGraveler305]

You’re very observant,we can learn a lot from older ones and you reflected on their wisdom when they influence. Kudos to you.

[@OSheaGlobalAlliances]

The solo session before shipping off to Vietnam part in Big Wednesday was the clip that inspired my love for long boarding.

[@shirtlessGraveler305]

I learned to surf when I was 23 years old, but I also had gotten into windsurfing here on the East Coast in Florida before I got into surfing. I just went last Friday I rented one and of course I never stop surfing and I have a longboard and I have a mid length and I have a 68 thruster, I also have a stand-up paddleboard that I use a few times during the year when it’s flat and go fishing on it, do some distance even catch small waves with it man that thing really keeps you in shape when you have to paddle for a wave so I mix it up a lot, but I love the simplicity of surfing ! I keep in shape stretching push-ups pull-ups all that and of course I’m still in Cyclist road cycling mountain biking and I ride a fixed gear bike too . Also I got into trying skateboards such as a longboard and then a year and a half ago I bought a carver surf skate and I really enjoy that a lot keeps the flow going on the concrete and we don’t have waves so definitely staying active and flexible. Don’t get old before your time, but do the things to keep you in shape for the sports in the activity love . I’m not on medication for anything.

[@JacyJay]

Great advice for all to surf forever! I’m approaching 60 and still getting out there 2-3 times a week. Gotta put the work in on the side to be able to do it. Joel nails it with his recommendations! Saw Skip frequently in the lineup at PB in the early 90s he was buttery smooth 😮

[@someroob7915]

Always great to hear from Joel; and for me being an older surfer, there are certainly some nuggets of wisdom in there. Thanks LogRap & thanks Joel (really... he’s the Keith Richards of surfing. I’m not talkin’ about still gettin’ it on as you get older; but more keeping the roots alive and relevant to successive generations. AND very obviously... STYLE & natural CooL). If you live long enough and keep longboarding you can grow an extra toe and HANG 11. 🤙😁

[@IanMcSlater]

in 91 (at 21 yrs old) i started longboarding cuz it just fits my personality. I could ride a thin performance board, still get any aggressions out while still having flow and smoothness to my style and how i liked to surf. None of my close friends got it, they talked shit to me forever, yet i will contest that i had more fun than most ha, Caught more waves, surfed any size and just giggled all day. I can barely watch regular surfing but can watch longboarding all day long. Those first few boards were magical to me. (9'0" Spirit of Hawaii, 9'1" Stewart and a custom 9'0" shaped by Brian Szymanski, not sure he shaped many longboards at that time)

[@davidatchison4986]

loved the last line.

[@Thurston.Howell.the.3rd]

Saw Herb at Uppers with a board that was sprayed on bottom ‘in the stillness, the dance begins’. He paddled out to the bay while everyone was up the point, waited for the ones that swung wide and put on a show. Ah, memories

[@LogRap]

0:00-5:50 THC 5:55-8:19 East Coast 8:20-9:53 Skip Frye mentality 9:55-15:41 Longboard History 15:43-18:28 Final Thoughts

[@charlieduvall6463]

As a 59 year old sander from the east coast i can relate to everything Joel says here. Ive been on the n shore since 90 and still try to get in the water everyday. We need to evolve our equipment to fit our age and agility level so we can still have a good time. Guys like Skip and a younger Mike Ho are great inspirations. Gerry as well. Theres a bunch of older guys still charging over here that really inspire me. Off to the dawn patrol . Enjoy that shit people.

[@johnboom6777]

Correct. I'm 75yo and was still on a short board in my seventies but sucumed to the fact that it gets harder to climb to your feet. I'm now on a Sunova Slider. Bert Burger' being my nephew I should have got onto sliding earlier.

[@TonkotsuFu]

Mike ho at any age is a inspo

[@ManambeLavaka]

The fitness and body maintenance stuff is often overlooked by many people. Surfing is good exercise but it’s really withdrawing from your physical bank account. You need to put in plenty of deposits (yoga, pilates, foundation training, core work, mobility work, etc) or that account is going to run dry.

[@Tjinguru]

I agree, I'm 60 and train some form of fitness everyday. Maintaining mobility is particularly important as you age. You have to set benchmarks. Peer-reviewed science (not bro science) is very clear now that weight training is also critical to maintain strength as we age (we lose 3-5% strength per year after 40 with no weight training). So the basics of squats, deadlifts, pull-ups, pushups, overhead press, kettlebells will keep you surfing. Joel is spot on re neck/shoulder/back. Man, some days I feel fucked! But, 30 minutes of mobility work and I'm okay again. I just returned from Senegal and surfing 4-6 hours a day. As you say, doing the work beforehand paid off!

[@bonsummers2657]

Animal based. Starches sap strenght in the older decades. @@Tjinguru

[@juansurfcity1605]

so many thoughts buble up... maybe add Walden as a guy who was always shaping longboards; with his chined rails.... Dobson WAS crazy; switch stance barrels; working for Donald; still around Encinitas... and love when Peck comes down... think Skip still makes the drive to OC, and checks it all the way down... yup; call 'em into to 'em; "back paddle it!"......🤣🤣🤣

[@stokedcreativesfilms5986]

Gotta love Joel when he imparts surf wisdom! Wish he also observed some of the OGs that burned out on drugs like he observed their surf styles and body issues. He needs to learn from them that in the end drugs will do you in...

[@Singlefinsurfingforlife]

This absolutely made my day

[@tomwagner6334]

It was always a treat to watch Dale Dobson and Skip Frye paddle out on occasion at Beacons in the late 80s early 90s.

[@mrelmoresmusiclab]

Saw and spoke with Joel many times in the lineup in SD. Super cool dude and I think it's great he is digging the East Coast. I moved to to NYC and then NJ and surfed all over the place. So many great waves out that way. Life is too short to not have a bunch of experiences.

[@matthewwillis4892]

I cut up dozens of classic long boards back in the 70s to hone my shaping skills, I have no regrets.

[@michaeldismukes4439]

PB, through G&S and Skip mostly, stayed consistently committed to bigger boards and up at Sano too because of the reality of that wave kept it alive. I worked at PB Surf Shop til about 83, there were walls of racks of shorts but there were always a few older guys riding the less good, but less crowded waves. He's right, for the long haul its the long hauler.

[@carloxaugustine]

Worked there too back in Covid years fun time

[@EdwinLap]

I can still get waves to myself here in Charleston, granted the quality is so so, but on any given day it does get good - with very few people out.

[@rjhoover4474]

Joel knows his stuff!

[@jaysmartin]

Interesting for the 70s shape but modern bottoms 🤙🏼 i like that idea

[@Surferdadsocal]

Wave count is the main reason I don’t ride shortboards anymore. In California you can ride a 5’10 potato chip but you ain’t getting many waves when there’s 75 guys out.

[@OSheaGlobalAlliances]

I hate to say this on a Tudor video, but foiling and wing foiling, wave count can be hundreds per hour on a good wind swell and there’s no competing for them. The whole canvas is yours.

[@williamhanley7031]

Just watched the old movie when you were like 14 years old . Surfing with wingnut and old school ledges. Ripping backside at Malibu was my favorite spot. BTW. Herbie to me was the best surfer I have ever seen on a longboard. No hard feeling just giving him props . You know where you stand and that's pretty damn tall bro.

[@SoulDaddy33]

Yep, On Safari to Stay. Great film!

[@lirider3932]

Holy crap, think he gave a shout out to Charlie Bunger from Long Island. Tommy Bunger shaped me a board once. They're in West Babylon New York.

[@nancykunik4370]

Yeah ... Charlie the legend from gilgo beach in the 60's & 70's

[@EvrybodySurf]

Thank u Joel.

[@alexchechs]

Good stuff as always Ryan

[@aldopomar6642]

I Always check you surfing videos . I lo ve longboard surfing too . I live In cocoa beach we need s longboard here

[@veteaarapari186]

Long time no see, since the first time he appeared on the screen when he was young a few years back

[@Johnnysunami]

Hey Joel, your knowledge is so appreciated. TY

[@davidatchison4986]

I used to see Skip in the line-up or in the parking lot all time the time. I haven't seen him in a good while.

[@ALOHAOE-yf9or]

AIPA, EATON, BECKER, MARTIN…🌅🌊🕊️

[@aldopomar6642]

Thank you for mention Felipe Pomar he is my dad's cousin I am Aldo pomar I do surf too . Nothing like surfing

[@shirtlessGraveler305]

Who remembers seeing Herbie Fletcher riding a longboard with Deckers flip-flops and member seeing that in the magazines never seen anybody ride a surfboard with flip-flops on.

[@erikheiskala5865]

I love watching skip, still ripping at pb point

[@11BlackLamb]

Micky Munoz stayed long through 2000's + surfed Sequits/Secos/Leo Carillo w/ him- great guy

[@machoninny2960]

Nice Chat

[@gonzodongo888]

Felipe Pomar will liiive forever 🇵🇪

[@morgomorgaf306]

Top-notch that!! however push-ups is extremely hard work an ol salt can do thereself a mischief so much as attempting such

[@Taylor314ce]

Joel is the best surfer in the world.

[@williamward7801]

I'm a kook and I learned something this evening

[@christhew4129]

Love the knowledge Joel 🌊

[@williamhanley7031]

A lot of people are compromising there surfing by riding to short of boards. It's all been done . There is no new type of board they did it all in the 70's . The surfing to. Kevin Reid as an example.

[@bennyblanko3]

Robert August and Bob Boland "the greek" in HB. I sure added some foam to my board ... heh heh. Not a long board, but paddles like one. 7'-4 Black Dingo, not sure volume, but gota be at least 60 liters? I gota get back in the water - going canoing in 45 degree water today - but, no belly sticking out of the farmer john or hooded 5/4 - running a dry suit over my clothes, heh heh Hope I don't bake, or swim in the Salmon River.

[@jadonpaulgriffith]

Sick

[@dacat867]

420 views

[@erikhancock98569]

😂

[@outriggerunderground]

knee paddling also strengthens your hamstrings and core. which both save your back as you age. back muscles themselves aren't important, its the big muscles surrounding them

[@williamhanley7031]

Was just saying . Once the kid then the king, and then just a regular shredder with a ledgendary story behind. Nobody escapes age unless you die.

[@tjtoobs]

Where you go? Nowhere,

[@alohastateofmind3565]

Geico cavemen rip.

[@Thurston.Howell.the.3rd]

Harry and the Hendersons vibe

[@diggy4963]

What part of the country is he referring to?

[@bido8176]

East coast.

[@tahimana2197]

One of the most egotistical people in surfing, under the delusion he’s humble because hes not into what everyone else is

[@coryholland1811]

Make sure the Vans stickers show like a good pro.

[@krishnaveganathar]

Localism is awesome until you have to save a wave from construction and need collective support.

[@petershaw-m4q]

You’re hardcore haha

[@mannyaldama2450]

what about walden on longboards

[@bonsummers2657]

Nu Yorq

[@DeforestLCooper]

I have a completely different viewpoint from this guy. It’s so weird to hear him talk. I’ll never own a longboard. If you want to stay young, you should ride low volume boards that Challenge you and make you a better surfer. Riding more foam and more foam and more foam will eventually make your surfing worse. Some of the stuff he says doesn’t make sense at all.

[@LogRap]

To each their own. I think the point is, can you show me anyone over the age of 65 who can ride a “low volume” board? If you never want to get more foam that’s fine, but you’re gonna reach a point when you can’t shortboard anymore and then what are you gonna do?

[@OSheaGlobalAlliances]

Lemme guess. You’re under 30?

[@Surferdadsocal]

@@OSheaGlobalAllianceshaha exactly.. or under 40 I was gonna say

[@zareh805]

Do you know who Skip Frye is?

[@DeforestLCooper]

@@OSheaGlobalAlliances I'll be 41 this year. I'm 145lbs and 5'6" and feel stronger than I was in my 30's. Good health is key. No smoking, very little drinking and exercise will keep you younger longer and obviate the need for more volume and bigger boards. Not sure what Joel's view on health is, but it doesn't sounds like he's on a healthy living program.

[@scottyflintstone]

He looks terrible

[@josehpwilliams348]

Ugly boards, wouldn't be caught riding any of those boards