Nitro Guitar Finish Tutorial - Part 1: Preparation & Grain Filler

How to create a perfect nitrocellulose guitar finish. In the first part of this tutorial I will show you how to prepare a guitar body (or neck) for finishing. I'm using a body that requires grain filling, since the quality of this job really determines the quality of your finish in the end. Take your time in the preparation stage and you will be rewarded with a perfect, high gloss shine.
Support Lone Star Guitars: / lonestarguitars
Products used in this tutorial (I am not affiliated with any of these stores):
Nitrocellulose lacquer (UK/EU): www.manchester...
Nitrocellulose lacquer (USA/world): www.stewmac.co...
Polishing compounds (Stewmac): www.stewmac.co...
Polishing compound (Rupes): www.amazon.com...
Grain filler (EU): www.hoelleinsh...
Grain filler alternative (USA/world): www.stewmac.co...
Tack cloth (UK/EU): www.manchester...
For detailed questions or other inquiries, mail me at [e-mail].
Also, check out the Lone Star Guitars website:
www.lonestarguitars.nl

[@user-zn6bf6zj2g]

I have watched many videos on finishing guitars, but this is the first one that gives a step-by-step tutorial. Lone Star guits the A for today!

[@azmrafsan]

I've never had a hand explain something to me to beautifully

[@danteyoutu]

Wow! This was one of if not the best tutorial. Most people just shoot their videos while doing the painting and take forever without a clear structure. You basically put together an actual lecture with audiovisuals.

[@rnemchev]

Finally everything explained clearly! Thanks a lot!

[@LoneStarGuitars]

Thanks!

[@MarsRestorations]

I've been reading the Stew Mac book on finishing, and this video has been very helpful with the visual hands on.

[@filipematias2239]

Perfect in-depth guide! You are a MASTER!

[@ArturBrzozowski444]

Man, I love your series. I'm going straight to part 2

[@xh4r744]

That grain on this was amazing

[@mikecrossjung8642]

Thank you so much for these videos. The details seriously helped me with my hobby builds! A fresh sea foam green jazz bass and a mean metallic black P bass. Respect and nice work at Lone Star Guitars

[@xaviervansteen290]

A very nice looking finish, great work. This is a great tutorial for first timers like me, great tips and remarks about safety and procedure. Also you are nice to point out a great supplier for nitro who cares about their customers a lot. If you ever make a buttercream nitrocellulose finish, be sure to capture the process on your channel =D

[@JB-rw9xt]

Great tutorial and very informative. It shows all the hidden costs and time to do a DIY guitar properly. Happy I watched it before buying a kit which I won't be buying now.

[@kroadster3249]

Just perfect. Thank you for all the Details and very good explanation

[@TommySG1]

I’m getting ready to do a finish on a swamp ash Tele body like this one in your video, great video and step by step explanations on what to do! You probably saved me about 8 hours of sanding with this video LOL! 🤙

[@projectmonk9673]

You have saved me SO MUCH TIME! Thank you for your in-depth video and all the information you spoken of!

[@WillyMcCoy50]

That body has fantastic grain! WoW!!

[@abergreg]

Excellent demo, thanks, I'm going to try and use this method on a worn patch on a strat body.

[@lee-e1767]

Just started my own project using an old infinity tele me and my brother abused as teenagers, gonna use your technique.

[@jjcarter6539]

Good I need to do a sunburst!!

[@JONNIE_ROCKER]

Thanx for the info about liquid grain filler.

[@lousekoya1803]

Such a great tutorial,.....heading for part 2

[@johnjoy1318]

This video is a god send, thank you !

[@deargdoom8743]

Great presentation. I feel confident about refinishing my tatty ash bodied strat now. Thanks!

[@adam6ism]

Wow excellent work and excellent video thank you for sharing

[@LoneStarGuitars]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching.

[@robinnergard765]

nice video. waiting for part 2 :)

[@AM2PMReviews]

It’s so pretty just with the grain! I would almost consider making it naked with a nitro coat only

[@Art-zs6sl]

Translucent is great compromise.

[@DynamicRockers]

Nice video. thanks. Waiting for the next part!

[@lukegoffkat]

I do prefer Mahogany over ash, the pores are smaller and the grain is less wide and rough. Still takes 3-4 coats, but I don't just lather it on like you do, I squeegee when I apply, leaving less on the wood top to sand off. Less time sanding is always a good thing. But I see why you had to brush it on the body you were showing us!

[@banjoist123]

I have used Aquacoat filler for a few instruments. It is really easy to work with, dries quickly, but I would recommend not using it on very dark woods. It will "ghost" if you have are talking about very porous wood. It's perfect for sound board woods, however.

[@fabiolima221]

Hello guy I'm from Brazil, and wow, the way you explain is awesome, very detailed and very helpful video.. I will subscribe now tks

[@fabiolima221]

You is a finishing scientist hahahaha, you apply the techniques very well... Good job

[@dylanthompson2858]

0:00 - Intro 1:04 - Supplies 5:03 - Surface Prep 5:27 - Wood Grain 6:35 - Grain Filler 9:00 - Raising the Grain 10:08 - Rounding Sharp Edges 10:19 - Applying Grain Filler 12:26 - Sanding the Grain Filler 14:48 - Closing

[@ruditopoderoso]

Great explanation! Thank you so much

[@LewisShieldsUS]

Great lesson and show, thank you.

[@StevenParente]

Very informative and well done. Thank you!

[@juanjobravo4476]

excelente gracias!, excellent tutorial, very clear and simple like the nitro.

[@WillMaskellTaylor]

Really useful and informative, thanks!

[@cowboyconey]

Awesome tutorial series. Instant sub. Thank you.

[@RODAREZconAmor]

Great tutorial thank you very much

[@LoneStarGuitars]

Thank you, and you're welcome!

[@LoneStarGuitars]

Part 2 is now available! Thanks for your patience and I hope you enjoy it!

[@MikoStrato]

Amazing video really !!!!! Just a question which product are you using at 09:22 ? Is is the sanding sealer ?

[@MarkoMarcello]

Excellent video!

[@LoneStarGuitars]

Thank you!

[@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342]

I love you. And I mean it lol. Having a pro finish your guitar can cost hundreds. Sometimes even close to 1000 in the case of rare exotic guitars like rics!

[@RetroPlus]

Don't breathe this stuff in, your brain will go a little goofy

[@221b-l3t]

Temporarily or permanently?

[@goodknight37]

@@221b-l3tyes

[@1106Winter]

Terpentine from De Parel. Love to see some Dutch quality products being used in the US. De Parel makes great quality paints and stains as well.

[@fow8780]

Edwin Winter je hoort toch wel dat deze vent nederlands is

[@1106Winter]

@@fow8780, I'm sorry?

[@MusicStudent1]

Great video, thanks! I’m about to do this on an Explorer-type kit body.

[@LoneStarGuitars]

That's a great project! Best of luck.

[@drebin567]

Amazing video!!

[@harvardh]

Great vid, thx!

[@theee_baldman]

Hi there! First of all, great tutorial(s), very complete!! I was thinking of doing a relic'd finish; I specially love the chipped kind of relic'd finish. I've read from guys that say you should apply the nitro directly in a 400 grit body to those who claim a similar process shown on your videos. Some say primer will do exactly the opposite i'm looking for, avoid chipping from happening. And, B, I was thinking on applying a waterbased tint to dark the showing wood after the relic job; won't sealer, filler and primer prevent that from happening since wood won't be able to absorb? Many, many thanks, Alex.

[@LoneStarGuitars]

If that's what you're going for I would recommend first staining/dyeing the wood to get it a little darker. Then apply sealer. Skip the primer. Then apply color and clear. You can still get it to chip with the primer, but it won't look very nice since the primer is usually white or gray (and that will show beneath the chipped color/clear coats). Good luck!

[@headshrinker8595]

Most helpful thanks

[@Ibaneddie76]

Nice video, very informative.

[@TheJhkjhkjh]

If you set the playback speed to x1.5 it sounds like it's Jesse Eisenberg

[@LoneStarGuitars]

I tried this and it is pretty accurate.

[@lueysixty-six7300]

Lol. It's that speaking fast because he is so much smarter than the rest of us, and having to slow it a touch for our benefit... But he'll accomodate us begrudgingly and patronizing. That's what I get fro! "Eisenburg" speak.

[@1000ways2fly]

LMAOOO WTF

[@gavinvalentino6002]

And if you listen to it at .5 speed, it sounds like my buddy Daniel, who is a heroin junkie. Seriously.

[@VicHightaian]

great information!

[@DEVAULT.]

Invredible video Thank you so much.

[@AndrewTelles]

Hey man, great job, really unbelievable work you did there! Thank you for a such a great service, helping the rest of us learn how to do this that is, I really appreciate it, you have a new subscriber! I wanted to ask one quick question, as perhaps I missed it somewhere in the three videos, but how many cans should I buy? I notice you have one can of sanding sealer, one can of primer, one can of the color, and one can of the clear gloss. This will be the first time I attempting this, so should I get two cans of the color? Thanks again!

[@dekzan]

Thank you

[@jjcarter6539]

Sunburstttttt

[@ryanstark2350]

9 volt batteries make excellent small sanding blocks.

[@jcd13able]

Also, white blocky pencil erasers at walmart.

[@SubversionGarage]

Part 2!

[@LoneStarGuitars]

Working on it! I've got quite a few projects going on at the moment, but I'm definitely trying to get part 2 up as soon as possible. Thanks for watching.

[@chrismudd9342]

Am I the only.person in love with that ash grain?

[@OG_Wakanobi]

Halfway through and we finally see the guitar

[@MCgamingDutch]

thanks a lot man !!!

[@LoneStarGuitars]

You're very welcome! Part 2 is very close to being finished now!

[@marioszlatinis7520]

awesome video thanks for posting, how do you go about sanding the sides and edges of the guitar after applying the grain filler?

[@ronnieparfait]

Good question, I would guess sanding it by hand not using the wood block. ✌🏼

[@Matan2222222]

Thank You for this amazing video! Can you send a different link to the wood filler? The one in Europe is only in German and in the USA link the product doesn't exist.

[@bjornkommedal9364]

Great video, thanks!!! What if you want a textured surface that DOES pop the grain visually, sort of like Novo guitars with their solid color on sand-blasted bodies, with almost 3D texture? Could you spray nitro directly on sanded wood? Or wood with minimum sealer, but no fill?

[@Jerry_olney]

Can you do a Butterscotch tutorial?? 🤟🏽

[@jcd13able]

Transparent: use clear wood filler so you can see the grain thru the finish. Then use premixed lacquer color or mix to lacquer to create opaque color. In another words, don't put too much pigment into the lacquer. Then spray as many coats as you want the opacity to be. Opaque: use filler and white primer and then color and clear on top. You can skip the primer but then you'll need many layers of color to make it opaque enough.

[@oblivionmankind]

Topvideo, dank hiervoor! Een vraag: na het vullen van de porien is de grainfiller (zelfde soort als inde video) wat vlekkerig opgedroogd. Ook na het gladschuren met 240 blijven er donkerdere en lichtere plekken over, ook al zit de nerf vol. Blijf je dat zien bij een clear finish? Mijn vervolgstappen zijn clear nitro primer en clear nitro gloss. Moet ik ernaar streven om de filler overal op dezelfde kleur te hebben? Dank!

[@martystudioone]

I'm going to spray nitro on my tele. Daphne blue. And now I'm watching your videos every day. Detail by detail. Now I have the tele body prepared for white primer. But is there a problem if I didn't use a grain filler but only sanding sealer which was not in the spray. I put a 7 coats of this and sanded it. Now it's smooth like a glass. But there are 2 tiny scratches and I can't sand them out. Is it a problem for next steps? All the other surface is really smooth. Thank you for your videos 🙏

[@brwi1]

If you are refinishing a guitar that was already painted do you still need to use grain filler?

[@sebastianwiesmaier6923]

Thanks so much for this tutorial. After watching this, most other videos on this topic feel like makeshift somehow 😅 Question: for a transparent finish with stain. Do I apply stain to the naked wood, then grain fill, and one more layer of stain? Or better mix the stain in with the grain filler?

[@matthewmiranda7060]

Thank you! Your video clarified so much 'order of operations' questions for me. I'm planning to stain my body, so would my next steps be to apply the stain then top coats?

[@jcd13able]

You mean color stain and then apply a clear coat? Stay away from anything that can be cleaned with water unless you're an expert because the oil based paints work so much better than water based one.

[@bertonedes]

Nice action. My guitartech made me a solid telecaster spruce body, he said its a 2-component "nitro" laquer. Im not an expert, but i realise that its pretty soft, even after 2 months after spraying. You can literary leave your finger nail markf in a surface when you push harder. Is that normal? Should i spray maybe one coat os "something" to protect that fragile surface?

[@rickwaihrich1570]

Great!!! Could you post here a just clearcoat finish without color paint? I'll start this job and liked very much your tutorial. Thank you.

[@jcd13able]

Grain fill and pile on clear nitro coats until you have the necessary thickness built up to what you desire.

[@snapascrew]

How would you recommend someone achieve a semi transparent gloss finish (closed pore). I’m going for a finish that looks almost like a solid color but upon close close inspection (in perfect lighting) one should be able to see the grain. I have the color picked out and my finisher/painter uses poly.

[@whitecloud971]

Hello ! Nice video ! How many times do you wait after applying the grain filler before sanding it ?

[@jetdreadstone870]

Thanks for the video. I used an oil based fillet on an alder body I’m doing and when I went to do the sand and sealer step, there are streaks that show up after sanding and wiping down with tack cloth. When I put mineral spirits everything looks clean but these steaks are at the edges of the body and it looks generally uneven in the sides. My question is if there’s a way to tell if the sealer had been sanded through too much or not enough. I put two coats on, letting each dry for a couple hours before sanding and wiping down again. Any thoughts? I’m doing a semitransparent blonde color coat and I don’t want to continue with it if it’s not going to be uniform grain underneath. It’s not major just not totally clean if that makes sense. Any thoughts about how perfectly clean the grain of the body needs to be to show up consistent under the color coat? Thanks

[@mattnsac]

Id advise people NOT to use a sanding block like you did in a straight back and forth motion. That will create grooves in the surface. Instead, block it in an X pattern so the long sides are on the leading and trailing edges. This assures you dont create waves and grooves and is essential for a flat surface. It is a common technique for blocking out automotive primer and filler and you can find a ton of videos just searching for auto body blocking technique.

[@spokes28]

? Am I correct in thinking that after you use grain filler you have to use paint because stain or dye will no longer soak into the wood ?

[@middle_pickup]

Thanks so much for this video! I'm hoping to build my own guitars some day. One question: How do you clean your sandpaper during the grain filler sand down? You said that's important.

[@jcd13able]

Use compressed air or rag.

[@Vladimir_Allena_short_stories]

Hi, thank you for for sharing this great video! A short question, if possible. I've never used Aeronaut sanding sealer before. If I want to use spirit based wood stains, can they be successfully applied AFTER using this kind of sealer?

[@ianprice9831]

This is excellent - just what I was looking for. I’m refinishing a Baja telecaster. I’ve removed all of the original finish (it was really thick!) and it’s now down to the bare wood. Would I need to do the grain filler stage, or should that still be ok after removing the original finish?

[@nez1703]

I've been told since my guitar is American basswood it does not require grain filler, just sanding sealer. What grit and smoothness does the body need to be at before applying the sealer? 600?

[@silentyouber2816]

Sunburst please on a Fender Precision bass. Thank you very much for this.

[@gordonsteeves9950]

Would more time spent using water to raise the grain and sanding back, be more of an advantage? Great information by the way.

[@jcd13able]

Not really because if you notice his grain filler can be used to raise the wood grain. It's liquid after all.

[@xplorer3475]

That's great tutos !! thank you ! Please, how do you proceed preferably to have a less glossy result ? like a bit satin, aged on surf green solid color like that ? And how do you mix tints and lacquer, to make custom solid color tints please ?

[@jcd13able]

You can buy nitro in gloss, semi-gloss and satin finish. Tints come in liquid or powder form and you just add them to the clear lacquer mix well and then fill your air gun with that mix and spray away. If it's too hot where you're spraying you might want to add reducer to the mix to prolong the drying process so the paint has a chance to level out on its own before it dries. Otherwise once the paint hits the body it will be too dry to stick as it will dry out in the air before it hits the body.

[@kimchatterley7415]

Nice video, thanks, clear and helpful. One question: the grain filler that I have (Rustins) comes as a paste and needs to be thinned down with white spirit. Is that what you did? If so, what proportion of white spirit to grain filler did you use? Many thanks.

[@georgeorwell7850]

How would you go about preparing the wood if you were to want to do a relic BLK1 style? Sandblast the wood? No primer?

[@timogletree8754]

You mentioned cleaning your sandpaper when sanding the sealer. How do you do this?

[@stratocactus]

Tim Ogletree tap it on the leg of your workbench, or/and brush it with a stiff brush.

[@ghostgaming5568]

LGR Approves

[@roro-kr7xo]

Hey Lone Star, May I apply this wisdom over a sunburst? I want it to naturally wear off could you give me any if not all advice?

[@carvin69thinline65]

Question, won't an N95 dust mask work okay? I understand those can protect us from viruses which are way smaller than nitro aerosol particles?

[@PATOU4040]

You re job is great ! please what is the mark of the grain filler do you used in this video ?

[@beatbaker7420]

I think nitrolac's primer is a sealer and a primer at the same time? woudl you know?

[@versivo]

Thanks so much for the vid - the Aeronaut filler is by the far the best and easiest I’ve used so far. Still having some issues with some tiny end grain pores in some spots though. No matter what I use (Rustins/water based/Aeronaught) and how lightly I sand, they keep popping up unfilled in my finish. I’ve retouched them so many times! Should I use a wood filler instead, or as I’ve seen someone suggest a car body filler such as Bondo? It’s driving me nuts but I want to get it right. Thanks!

[@jcd13able]

Instead of using bondo use thinned out epoxy specifically Zpoxy for rc airplanes to soak the glass mats in when they join wing halves together. They have the thin version and it sands really easy. Kind of expensive like 15 bucks for 4oz or something like that. You mix the hardener with the resin and apply it with a credit card on the wood body in thin layer. Wait for it to dry then sand it to level the surface. Apply more coats when you see shiny spots. Sand until no shiny spots seen. It's probably the best filler ever but also very messy.

[@TLguitar]

Hey there! Good explanations here. I have a 2010 LP Studio in sunburst that have a worn spot under the strings, seemingly just from how I rest my fingers when playing. I don't know if I'll do it any time soon, but I kind of prefer the look of a stained natural guitar vs the sunburst. So I've been researching the option of stripping it and then refinishing. A couple of questions: from what I gather, this guitar is mahogany body (and neck I suppose) with maple top. Maple is close grain, so will I not need to fill it, but do the rest of the body? And how will you go about the stripped neck? I assume you would need to fill the neck too if you don't want it to be grainy to the touch, should you do the same process only sand the filler without a block? And the headstock itself, do you need to go and do that whole process as well? Or is a stain and coating with nitro enough there? Thanks in advance.

[@LoneStarGuitars]

You are correct. The neck and body are presumably mahogany and usually will need grain filling. The maple top won't. However, it really depends on how much you sand it down. You probably won't open up the pores of the mahogany by sanding it down partially. After you sand it, look at the surface and if it shows the wood grain (small dimples) you should probably fill those up. But chances are you won't have to. The neck can easily by sanded by hand and sandpaper. It is by the way also possible to only strip and respray the top instead of the entire guitar if that's what you're looking for.

[@TLguitar]

@@LoneStarGuitars I read that you don't really have to sand anything, maybe slightly polish at the last part, to strip nitro. Most people recommended rubbing it off with some sort of solver, but perhaps that in itself can open the pores on a maple? And I look to have all of it in natural finish, other than the face of the headstock. I did see one example that looked nice with the top of the body darker than the sides and back, but with maple being lighter than mahogany I wonder whether the right staining process could achieve that. And I wonder how is the wood pattern on the mahogany. The maple is visible through the sunburst (I'm not sure whether it's 1 or 2 piece, though), but the black sides and back not so. EDIT: And how will you go about a couple of "dings" here and there? You obviously shouldn't sand them out as it would take away too much wood, and filling them probably needs something different than a grain filler. Can you just leave them and expect it to show under the new finish?

[@MarkBaker79]

Great video - thank you! What/How do you clean your sandapaper with while sanding the filler off ?

[@LoneStarGuitars]

I use a stiff brush to rub it off. Works very well (as long as your sandpaper is on a sanding block).

[@stephencraig8578]

My joint lines show on a 3 piece body after spraying clear lacquer. is there a way to make them not show with lacquer? After 8 coats,the last coat was alittle rough. I sanded the last coat and it is smooth.Can I leave it as is w/o another coat? thx

[@LoneStarGuitars]

It would have been better to have gotten rid of those joint lines in the grain filling stage. But yes, you can get rid of them with lacquer. I would let it dry for a couple of weeks to see if they come back as the nitro shrinks. If so, sand it down until the lines are gone and then give it a couple more coats. You could also polish now, but there's a risk of the lines returning after a couple of weeks.

[@stephencraig8578]

@@LoneStarGuitars ok,thx I'll give it a go.

[@hatbpto5180]

I am wondering about the integrity of the joints. I've finished many solid bodies and in the rare cases where this has happened it was due to insufficient joints. If that is the case there will never be any kind of finish you can do to eliminate the joint lines. I had a body fall a few feet to the floor once and that weakened the joint so that the joint line showed though to the final finish. Only way to fix it was heat the body to break the joint then prep and reglue. Lots of work!

[@stephencraig8578]

@@hatbpto5180 yeah, the company that I purchased it from gave me a discount to keep it as is.It was a kit. I only play at home so, I'll live with it. In certain light angles it is more noticeable than others.

[@jcd13able]

@@LoneStarGuitars They will definitely return after couple of weeks because lacquer always vents and never dries and it always sinks lower and lower into the wood or if sealer is used it will evaporate. I would do like lone stare said, sand off the two pieces of wood so there is no seam between them in the first place. You would have to use a harder sealer like acrylic lacquer on the wood for the seams not to show but I had bad luck with mixing acrylic lacquer ie. duplicolor with nitro even after drying the heck out of the acrylic paint.

[@teodelfuego]

I want to use nitro to paint a popular body tele in butterscotch finish. I didn't use grain filler. Also used Minwax Pre-stain and sanded with 600. It looks damn good and smooth. Question: should I use Sand and Seal or have I done enough with the pre-stain?

[@LoneStarGuitars]

If it's poplar then grain filler is usually not necessary. Poplar can however be quite absorbent, so I personally would use a sealer to seal in the wood and pre-stain before shooting lacquer.

[@teodelfuego]

Lone Star Guitars Ha ha ha! I just experimented 20 minutes ago with a quick coat of ReRanch and you were absolutely correct! No one in the 50 tutorials I saw mentioned the absorption issue, but I see now that sand and seal is far cheaper than nitro. Otherwise, grain and color looks great. (Fortunately, I just sprayed a tiny bit for test. ) Thanks for your excellent videos and replying so soon!

[@jtromsness]

Awesome tutorial. If you were staining the body would you stain pre or post grain filler?

[@jcd13able]

I wouldn't use a filler with a stained body as you want the stain to penetrate deep into the wood so it can't be easily rubbed off. It's a thin finish in the first place.

[@lukewilson9425]

So am I right in thinking that alder, being a closed grain wood, doesn’t need any wood filler?

[@yrdbyrd_bjj]

Any update on the blackguard style finish? I'm looking at building a blackguard and would like to know the differences. Thanks!!

[@stonesthrow311]

Thanks, this video was super informative. Would you recommend using grain filler on a new, never-finished basswood body?

[@LoneStarGuitars]

Usually basswood does not require grain filler. But if it's a factory made body it probably will need some sanding to get it smooth enough to start spraying nitro. After that you could just spray a thin coat of sealer and see how flat/smooth it turns out.

[@EinSteinerEnduro]

Hey, I was wondering, do you need to put grain filler on Poplar? Thanks!

[@philbritton189]

You shouldn't need to. Check out the stewmac website which has a finishing schedule for nitro.