Longworth Chuck To Also Use In The Tailstock - Episode 185

[@Thesidingsworkshop]

Cracking job mate very good

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you

[@woodturningwithDave]

Good work on the Long worth Chuck Paul Great video thanks for sharing.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Dave

[@maxforest3071]

Great video Paul thanks for sharing.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Max

[@alanmullock381]

Good work around Paul👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Alan.

[@ianmcgrail6482]

Nice job thank you

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you

[@tomasarguinzoni9022]

Very good work 👍🏼

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Tomas

[@robertsteadman8999]

Once again Paul nice work, you always seem to come up with the projects I would like to do in the future many thanks for that.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Robert. This has been on my list for a long time, the steady rest really prompted this as I was cutting the discs out.

[@raymondherringbotn172]

Great video. 👍🏻

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Raymond

[@alanroberts2852]

Great job

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Alan

[@Create2make]

Great video, looks like it will be very useful.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Paul. All made from left overs after the steady rest.

[@hraun2berg]

You are genius 👍👍👍 Cheers, Júlíus

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Julius. Not sure about a genius though. 😀

[@stevenjobbins2600]

Fantastic video Paul this is by far the best instruction I have seen on building a Longworth Chuck keep the projects coming I am a newish subscriber to your channel and am enjoying working my way through your back catalog

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Steven. I try to give as much detail as I can and as you will find a lot of my things I have done is what others do but I try and put my own twist on things.

[@MikeWaldt]

A very useful build Paul, nice one :) Cheers Mike

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Mike

[@JohnClothier]

Great job Paul. The reason for the other line is along the lines of what you already suggest. if you go all the way you end up really close to the other cut out and this makes it week. What you should notice is that people only go all the way on every other one. This keeps the gap large and keeps it strong. then when you go really small you remove the other 4 stoppers. not sure I explained that very well.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you John. Totally makes sense. However form where I started I was actually only about 2mm from the main internal line. If you look at about 6 minutes in when I did the router work the router bit was already just touching the line. I think as the arc is so big that the curve is so slight which over distance you don't gain much. If the chuck was smaller then that would be a different story. Thanks for letting me know that because on the size I was working with I couldn't see any benefit.

[@mhaz49]

Good tutorial. Might I suggest some plans or sketches of this?

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Mark. There are lots of videos on making these. I just added the extra part of using it from the tail stock too.

[@ajsv100]

I'am of Brazil. Thank you.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you

[@berniesr]

Nice clear explanation of a longworth chuck. Did you ever put a larger bolt in the centre?

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Bernie. I've not done any changes to it so far. It can be a bit of a pain to get work located centrally as there is so much play with the bolts. For sanding off the bottoms of bowls etc. all works fine as you can often locate the bowl centrally to start with using the live centre.

[@berniesr]

@@PaulLockwood Im about to make one myself I bought a kit with the stoppers ages ago. Thanks for the reply. I can see how centreing would be an issue

[@michaelhunter2425]

I have the longworth chuck and agree with James, put the wing nuts on the back. That keeps the wing nuts from damaging your work.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Michael. Yes I will be doing that, lots of experimenting going on with the buttons after turning them down and seeing their effects as they were tightened up.

[@pjbaddict]

Nice one Paul... have you thought about putting the same size spacer washer you put between the plates on the centre bolt in the same position on the other 8 bolts so you can’t pull the plates out of true when you tighten up?

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Glyn. someone just mentioned that just before you commented. I hadn't, but will more than likely add them. 18mm MDF should not flex unless under extreme pressure, which as long as each side is tightened the same shouldn't be a problem. Adding the washers should cause no issues with it either so for safety and ease I will add them in.

[@pjbaddict]

Late to the party as always lol

[@ianmcgrail6482]

The bolt and wing nut need 180 turned to be more user frendly

[@PaulLockwood]

Being right handed I prefer if this way as they can be stiff to tighten up. They don’t get in the way for when turning off the base of bowls etc. However they are easily reversed if required.

[@mikecox1129]

Brilliant video Paul, you've given me the confidence to attempt it other videos I have seen have not made it look easy enough for me to do, an I never new about the circle configuration for the plunge router! Only concern I have for yours is without washers on the stoppers between boards, when using larger bowls / segment rings and the stoppers are tightened their will be some flex and causing the stoppers to pull away from the piece and to run off true. How minute this will be and how it would effect the turning I have know idea. Thanks for your hard work and time to share. Mike aka Coxey's Wood Bodgering

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Mike. It's all about sharing and the more people do, even of the same thing we all see a different view. Someone else has mentioned washers between the two boards, which I will more than likely add. As to flex, this is 18mm MDF and would take an incredible amount of pressure to bend that, however as I said will be looking to add those washers and also put the wing nuts on the back. The stoppers are also rubber, so do flex and I've turned them down to a nice taper, so again should give extra support should the work slip a bit. Les chance of the work flying off. Getting this to run true is the biggest part. For turning the base off a bowl etc. if you're out a little shouldn't matter too much but for bringing up pieces to glue onto the head stock end is a bit more critical, which is one of the reasons I made the chuck.

[@dennisbeamish9058]

Paul I have seen other examples of making a longworth chuck - all fairly similar. However, the others I have seen show the wing nuts on the reverse side of the chuck. After you have used your method, do you see any real advantage on having the wingnuts mounted on either side? Look forward to your answer. Regards Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario Canada

[@PaulLockwood]

Hi Dennis. I will be putting the wing nuts on the back too. It was because I had the split washers on they were harder to loosen, so being right handed was easier. I've removed those so they tighten and undo much easier. As some have suggested I will also be placing the same large washers I used and place these on each of the 8 bolts between the two pieces of MDF, that way it will always have an even pressure. The main point of my video was a slight modification on how easy it would be to mount in the tailstock, without having to buy and extra like adaptors etc. After making the steady rest this was an ideal project to make as the disc was the waste wood from that project so therefore became a fairly cheap and easy project to make.

[@hylopetes]

You can buy for example Axminster faceplate. It has M33 thread so you can directly mount it on spindle. I also use Robert Sorby faceplates but everytime I fit it, it doesn't settle exactly same (checked with dial indicator). If you buy M33 adapter to MK2, you can use it also on tailstock. Advantage to this solution is that you can really press segmented ring when glueing. Anyway good job on this chuck, looks great.

[@PaulLockwood]

That's also another great idea. The whole point of the video is to get people thinking about using it for more that just an ordinary chuck for turning off the bottom of work. This seemed the easiest and cheapest option. Plus for me works well as I have to take the chuck off less using this method as it is usually on the lathe with the standard jaws in. Thank you for the feedback as this is what will be of interest to a lot of other people.

[@barrycook4690]

Top job Paul I cheated and got one ready made👍👍

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Barry. We don't all have your money so this was a budget build. 😂😂😂

[@AllenOxendine]

Thanks

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Allen

[@martkt10]

Great work, i would never have the knowhow to make one

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Mart. I think you might be surprised at how easy it is if you have the tools required.

[@dandixon4253]

Nice job. I also think the wing nuts need to be on the back for safety.

[@PaulLockwood]

Thank you Dan. Yes, it was all a lot of testing when I put it together.

[@bluelineturnings5055]

Why not put the wing nuts on back side so theres no chance of it getting in the way of a bowl and no chance you will bust your knuckles

[@PaulLockwood]

Very good point James. I think because I had the split washers in they were harder to undo, so being right handed had them this way. Now that I've taken the split washer off I'd certainly look at doing this.

[@Mac2474]

You may also find that the wing nuts foul themselves on the motor cowling to the rear of the lathe if your work piece is too large (as I find with my shop bought Longworth). Good job though Paul!@@PaulLockwood