Making a Longworth Style Chuck

In this project video I show you how I made my Longworth Style Chuck.
The inspiration for this project came from the following video. Please check it out for more detailed instructions.:
• Longworth Chuck english
The grippers I bought from eBay

[@Stephens8x6Workshop]

Great easy to follow build John. I've used mine more than I thought I would so I agree it's well worth making one.

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Stephen. Yes surprising how often you turn to them

[@PaulLockwood]

Great video John. A lot of accurate work required there. Well done!

[@JohnClothier]

Paul Lockwood Thanks Paul.

[@mikebernard4762]

Very well explained John. Many thanks. Mike B

[@JohnClothier]

Mike Bernard thanks Mike. Glad you liked it

[@markb8954]

Nicely done. Good to see you actually use it.

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Mark

[@PhilCannonWoodworking]

Great video John, you have inspired me to make my own. Thanks.

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Phil. Great, I wish you luck

[@geoffspierling3206]

Great, well presented. I'm off to make one in the morning.

[@JohnClothier]

Geoff Spierling Thanks Geoff. Have fun.

[@MikeWaldt]

A very well presented "How To" video John. Well done mate. Cheers Mike

[@JohnClothier]

Mike Waldt Thanks Mike.

[@capnskustomworks]

Very nicely done!

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks. glad you like it

[@martinbrace7195]

Love it John great video.

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Martin

[@billy19461]

Great video!

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks!

[@TurningWorks]

Great video and tutorial mate! 👍🍺

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Dave

[@jakubjunga]

good work, thanks. Fajna sztuczka, dobre centrowanie. Dla mnie super! Pozdro

[@JohnClothier]

Jakub Spoko thank you. Thanks for watching

[@jignesh4694]

Great video 👍

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks!

[@jignesh4694]

@@JohnClothier Please suggest the process for enlarging ID of carbide tipped saws through & correct ( tolerance 0.005 mm) OD of the saws varies from 14" to 20" and Number of teeths also varies from 40 to 144. Please also suggest machinery for enlarging Inner diameter of sawblade

[@chucksmith9633]

I've watched several of these longworth chuck videos, and they all have the same problem the center hole is just slightly off and it catches a bit or the disc's seam out of round. You need to rough out the blanks on the bandsaw or jigsaw, then screw them together near the outside edge, mount you faceplate in its final place. Then mount it on the lathe and true up the edge. Now put the drill chuck in the tailstock of the lathe and drill your center hole all the way through while it is on the lathe. It will be exactly centered. Then take it off the lathe and mark and route the slots leaving the faceplate on the back. Everything will be dead-on center without trying to get the faceplate reentered again.

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks for the comments. Perhaps you could create a video showing the process?

[@barrycook4690]

Very impressed with that Longworth chuck John it looks great if you have the time and wood I will cross your hand with silver as I have been looking for some think like that for myself if you have the time,all the best

[@JohnClothier]

Barry Cook Thanks Barry. Sure. I could do that. I'll be in touch.

[@PeteBeardsley]

Nice job John. I attempted one myself a couple of years ago and it was, frankly, a complete disaster! maybe it's time to give it another go. Thanks for the vide.

[@JohnClothier]

+Pete Beardsley Go for it. The only bit I struggled with was the routing. You have to be quite precise.

[@ryanb1874]

Is that cause you need a precise way of indicating the circle, and cutting the arced slotts?

[@ryanb1874]

Maybe there is a way you could "cheat, " buy along out a certain number of divisions, with a, manyal spirograph system, and then picking up right on the inside or outside of the right lines,

[@dennisbeamish9058]

Nice tutorial John! How did you keep the curve accurate with the router? Did you freehand or use some sort of centre point to anchor the router on the correct curve plane? Thanks Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario Canada

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Dennis. I used a centre point. You can see the metal jig the router is attached to during the routing. Roughly in the centre of that is a wing nut. That is the top of the centre point. I hope that helps :-)

[@bernym4047]

You seemed concerned that your explanation of the marking out process might be unclear or confusing. On the contrary, I found it perfectly clear and logical. I wonder if brewer's demi-john bungs might serve for the rubber grips as you can buy them with pre-formed holes (for the airlock). Anyway, thank you for an excellently produced video. I like the Minder joke at the end (lobster) 😂

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Berny. Always useful to hear others opinions. I found it all very confusing myself at the time which is why I wondered if that had come across. Rubber corks from demi-johns would work. I considered them myself. However they rubber is a fair bit harder and they wouldn't compress as easily. Certainly worth a try though! You have to love a bit of Minder :-)

[@WoodyWood]

Thanks for that John Just one thing I would like to suggest if I may When showing things on the bench it would be a big help if you had a overhead camera 8X6 Workshop did a video on his I would be making one of the long worth style chucks if I had a router but I dont

[@JohnClothier]

Graham Wood Hi Graham. I'm still finding my feet with camera placement in the new workshop. I'm hoping to move to overhead soon. Just need to finish the mount. Thanks for the feedback.

[@jordanhenderson3741]

Does the bolt connecting the two circles ever interfere with the faceplate screwing onto your shaft?

[@JohnClothier]

No not at all.

[@daef_valerapozhitkov3203]

МОЛОДЕЦ! СПАСИБО ЗА ВИДЕО.

[@JohnClothier]

благодарю вас

[@Mekchanoid]

What are the expanding rubber bungs actually called? Not having the easiest time looking for them. Great video by the way. I wonder if you still use this patent?

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks. Look for home wine brewing bungs. Yep still use it a lot

[@Jestey6]

Hi John. Great video, I made one about 5 years ago and use it quite a lot. I was trying to remember what it was called, came across your video, and ended up watching all of. Made me recall that it is not the easiest thing to make, and quite how Mr. Longworth thought it up in the first place😉. Anyway, I thought you did an excellent job, it all made perfect sense to me. One thing, did you locate the router, or did you cut freehand, following the lines? I can’t remember how I did it Many thanks Noel

[@JohnClothier]

Thanks Noel. From memory I located the router

[@Jestey6]

@@JohnClothier I just couldn’t see if, or where, it was mounted. But guessed it must have been. Cheers Noel

[@joshbrown5073]

Whats the point of the second blue line

[@alanprobert7608]

Do you have the link for the eBay grippers

[@JohnClothier]

Sorry they dont seem to be available anymore

[@Tracker7266]

eBay LINK does not work.

[@JohnClothier]

Sorry. This was over 2 years ago. You will need to search for them

[@camugi100]

Hi John Not wishing to detract from your excellent video (and skill) but why not use a faceplate and put a mortice on the other side to shape the bowl, box etc? Then invert the object to hollow it out.

[@JohnClothier]

Russ Martin if I have understood you correctly it is because to use a mortice with the chuck requires the mortice size to match the size required for the jaws. My jaws require a 69mm mortice. If I want a foot that is a different size to that e.g. 80mm then I can't use a mortice.

[@camugi100]

Hi John There is no need for a foot if you use a mortice, you are simply making a 'hole' that sinks inward (opposite to a foot) and instead of the chuck grasping the foot, it will then be 'inside' the mortice so will put outward pressure on the inside of the mortice, so much easier IMO. In other words you will hollow out to the same size of the 'foot' instead of having the wood stand proud and then widen the chuck to fit inside the mortice. Not grabbing the foot but expanding the chuck jaws into the hollow and holding it tight that way instead.

[@JohnClothier]

Russ Martin I understand what you are saying and I do use that method at times. Today in fact I did just that. It's really for the times when you want more control over the base. Say you want a really shallow mortice. That wouldn't hold in a chuck so this allows you to do it. Also you may not want a variance in the base thickness to prevent cracking. A mortice wouldn't allow you to do that. It's just another option really 😀

[@camugi100]

OK mate, I have only watched a couple of your videos so was not aware that you knew about this method - take care

[@JohnClothier]

+Russ Martin np probs at all. I'm still very new to turning and appreciate any help I can get! If rather someone told me something i already knew that not tell me something i didn't! Cheers

[@ruthvaillancourt8149]

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