Looking for a Deep Mirror shine? Have a look! Using Foam pads & Dspiae ES-P sander

[@lukeduca6696]

This a very good tutorial for a Deep Mirror Shine model 🤩. You tackled every step to achieve this result. Appreciate your time to film such a video and upload it to us all. Well done mate 👏👌

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thank you very much my friend 🙂 your feedback is very appreciated and motivating to keep bringing new content 👍🏼 I'm glad you like my tutorial and thank you for watching too ☺️👍🏼

[@joemoore4027]

Very good basic video for something most builders avoid, polishing ! Beautiful final finish on the Lambo !

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thank you Joe, that's very appreciated 🙂 yes exactly, polishing is very important for that final mirror finish and that's the reason I made this tutorial, to help others achieve that deep shine too 👍🏼 so glad you like the final finish on my Huracan too ☺️

[@MY_SCALEMODELING_CORNER]

Thank you my friend. I don't know how many hours i spent with polishing all my models...😂 But it is satisfying to see the result when it is smooth ✌️

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Exactly, perfectly agree 🙂 polishing is very time consuming and sometimes even boring! But once you see the finished result, it all pays off and puts a big smile on my face! The Huracan was filled with orange peel, but now it's as smooth as possible ☺️👍🏼

[@RicardoRVaz]

Hello Karl. Thank you for the videos. Its perfectly explained and altough i polish my models, i can step up the game.

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello Ricardo, thank you very much for watching and leaving your feedback. That's very appreciated 🙂 I really hope this tutorial manages to help you bring out a better shine on your models then 👍🏼 I tried to explain every step carefully, however if something is not clear enough, feel free to ask ☺️👍🏼

[@psycho_steph1133]

Great Tutorial Karl! I just ordered a Dspiae ES-P from your recommendation due to having a few scares with my rotary tool bouncing around wheel arches and window frames when polishing. One thing i will add is to invest in a really nice microfiber towel for 'buffing' off the polish. I have been a vehicle detailer for over 10 years and the buff procedure from a high quality towel really brings out the shine. Looking forward to the next video!

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thank you very much for your feedback, that's very appreciated. The Dspiae is a good tool and I love working with it since it's small and light. Using it to polish a body has it's benefits, mainly due to the lightness and size and also it's quite torquey and doesn't slow when the pad touches the surface. Battery life could be better however, since it doesn't last long (I keep it on the speed 1 setting as it's enough for the job). I'm leaving it connected to the usb while polishing and at speed 1 it works great.. gets a bit hot after some time but it cools off quickly when I stop it to apply the paste to a different area. Setting it to speed 2 will make it gets hotter quicker, but speed 1 is the best option I found. Hope that helps when you start polishing using the ES-P ☺️ Thank you very much for the microfiber towel suggestion. I'll definitely take your advice and buy a good one, in fact I'll stop to buy one after work today since I'm currently polishing the Top Secret Supra 🙂 Thanks again 👍🏼

[@srhphoto1]

Great video. Very useful. Thanks Karl.

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello Simon, thanks for watching the video and leaving your feedback. That's very appreciated and so glad you like my contents too 👍🏼👍🏼

[@ScaleModelJAM]

That's a fantastic tutorial Karl, I'm about to go buy me an ES-P!!

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thank you James, that's very appreciated and I'm so glad you like the tutorial ☺️ The ES-P is a good tool and I love working with it since it's small and light. It's main limitation is the 3mm chuck. However using it to polish a body has it's benefits, mainly due to the lightness and size and also it's quite torquey and doesn't slow when the pad touches the surface. Battery life could be better honestly, since it doesn't last long (I keep it on the speed 1 setting as it's enough for the job). I'm leaving it connected to the usb while polishing and at speed 1 it works great.. gets a bit hot after some time but it cools off quickly when I stop it to apply the paste to a different area. Setting it to speed 2 will make it gets hotter quicker, but speed 1 is the best option I found. Hope that helps my friend and thanks again for your support towards my work 🙂👍🏼

[@rayaquilina7476]

Thanks Karl 👍👌

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thank you Ray for checking out the video and leaving your feedback. That's very appreciated my friend ☺️👍🏼

[@Scaleautoshop]

Hi Karl, thanks for video. I am also used wool bits before. And then sponges from ali. On my opinion, sponge works better on 2k clear. Anyway, recent times i use 1k clear for all my models 😄

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thanks for your feedback my friend, that's very appreciated ☺️ I am currently polishing the Supra and testing out some sponges bought from Ali too. They work as great as the Firescale ones, true 👍🏼 in the last comment.. you said you're using 1k for all your recent models? Not sure I understood that well 🤔👍🏼

[@Scaleautoshop]

@@KarlScaleModeling I mean I use a one-component clearcoat, namely Mr Color GX100. It's not so shiny, but it's comfortable to work with. (and faster, for me)

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Ohh ok, yeah I remember on one of the Alpha 911 GT3 videos you mentioned using the Mr Color clear and result was still impressive, very shiny indeed and you even polished it with the rotary tool 👍🏼👍🏼 I love 2K clear too much to try other alternatives, but you're perfectly right.. 1K is easier and faster too ☺️

[@grooveholmes79]

great tutorial!

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello Tom, thank you for watching the video and leaving your feedback. That's very appreciated and I'm glad you like the contents too ☺️👍🏼

[@juanbrauliosobrevielafuert8044]

Gracias por el video tan instrctivo ,saludos desde España¡¡¡¡

[@KarlScaleModeling]

@@juanbrauliosobrevielafuert8044 Thank you very much Juan, that's very appreciated 😊 saludos desde Malta 🙂👍🏼

[@scaleffect]

Great tutorial Karl. I would like to move to power assisted polishing, but I wonder how lacquer clears will hold up compared to 2k which I know is super tough. I guess no other way than to try it, and with your guide hopefully I can get better results than I have been. Appreciate your effort to make this my friend!

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello there ☺️ thank you very much for watching the video and leaving your feedback 👍🏼 yes 1K clears are softer than 2K so extra attention should be taken when sanding and buffing the surface to avoid sanding through. I have never polished 1K clear using a rotary tool so I can't guide you from experience. Just take extra care, especially making the least possible pressure when sanding and buffing ☺️ Thanks again 👍🏼

[@ScaleModelBuilder1]

Interesting way of polishing! Really appreciating for sharing!🙏🏻 By adding a little dish soap preventing from deep scratches? 2500 is pretty rough grit. Sometimes I have to use 3000 grit and then it’s getting tough to remove these scratches.

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello there, thanks for your kind feedback. Very appreciated 🙂 Yes I find a little dish/hand soap in the water helps reduce scratches on the surface since the sandpaper would have a more slippery layer between it and the paint. However the most important is the pressure. I make the least possible pressure on the sandpaper against the surface. Pressing harder on it will make the granules inside the sandpaper to cause more scratches and even deeper ones. So that's very important too. 2500 is the best grit I found, as shown in the video. I'm showing all the steps with honesty in the video, there's nothing hidden to produce a deeper shine. In my opinion and from experience, 2500 done the right way is the only sanding necessary to remove orange peel and dust. Then you can move forward to the coarse and fine compounds with a buffer/rotary tool. Local modellers also adapted this technique and they're also producing a good deep shine with 2K clear ☺️ Hope that helps and thanks again for watching and leaving your feedback 👍🏼👍🏼

[@ScaleModelBuilder1]

Really appreciating for detailed description again! I will definitely try your method next time on my project. ❤

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Sure, you're welcome 😊 glad to be of help and feel free to ask anything if you're in doubt or need further details about any step in this tutorial 👍🏼👍🏼

[@ScaleModelExperiment]

Great video Karl, can you tell me approximately how many hours you spent polishing the body and parts? Your work always reminds me to slow down to achieve perfection.

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello there James, thanks for checking out the video and giving me name suggestions. That's very appreciated ☺️ Believe me, I'm not sure how many hours I spent polishing the body and all of its other pieces! But I guess it was between 5 to 6 hours for sure. I had 2.5 hours of filming to crop down! And I didn't film maaaaany parts of the process 🙂😀

[@lucamicalicapparelli4825]

Ottimo tutorial! Bisogna lavorare con i pad finché tutto il polish si sia asciugato? Grazie.

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Ciao Luca, grazie per aver guardato il video. Non è necessario continuare a lucidare finché tutto il polish viene rimosso. La superficie inizierà a diventare lucida e saprai di aver lucidato abbastanza. Tutto dipende anche dalla quantità di polish che metti sulla superficie. Quando metto poco polish finisco per rimuoverlo tutto come hai scritto tu. Hope that helps 🙂

[@raphaelluethi2344]

Great video, really appreciate! What compound do you use from FSM? Moderate and fine cutting? When I look on the webside, there is the orange pad for moderate cutting and the yellow pad for intensive cutting. Thank you so much!

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello Raphael, thanks for your feedback, that's very appreciated 😊 From FSM I use both polishing pads, the orange and the yellow. After sanding the surface smooth with the 2500-grit sandpaper, I use the orange pad together with Rexin polishing compound. Once done, I use the yellow polishing pad with Autoglym polishing compound. All this is showing step by step in the video. Hope that helps 😊👍🏼

[@raphaelluethi2344]

​​​​@@KarlScaleModelingYes, I saw that. 😊 What makes me confused: In your video you took the orange and then the yellow one. But on the webside is the yellow one "intensive" descripded and the orange is "moderate" abrassive. And for this procedure you need to go from strong to soft compound. Are your products not the same as on the webside? 🤔 Thank you so much!

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello Raphael, I have just checked the FSM website and realized the misunderstanding. The FSM polishing pads I used were bought some 2 years ago and are not the same as they have in stock now. You can notice that my pads are short while the current ones are longer. Even the packaging is much different. When I bought mine the orange was for medium cut polishing while the yellow was for fine polishing. Now they're the opposite! Even when I feel my pads, the yellow one is much softer meaning that I'm using them correctly. Sorry for the confusion, didn't realise that FSM changed stock. I would have mentioned this in the video if I had known before. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. Hope this helps 😊👍🏼

[@mill_airbrush]

Добрый день. Мне всё равно не удалось убрать мелкие царапины, хотя глубина блеска уже появилась. Использую super gloss III серии gx от gunze

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Привет, Спасибо за ваше сообщение. Маленькие царапины удалить сложнее всего. Это руководство основано на 2K прозрачном покрытии, и процедуры могут отличаться для удаления этих крошечных последних царапин на 1K прозрачном покрытии, которое вы используете. Все зависит от используемых полиролей и процедуры их удаления. Вы можете попробовать другой мягкий полироль и нанести его вручную, чтобы попытаться минимизировать мелкие царапины, насколько это возможно.

[@mill_airbrush]

@@KarlScaleModeling но, если честно, то я не смачивал шлифовальную бумагу в воде. Скорее всего в этом причина. И нужно было дольше производить предварительную шлифовку с меньшим усилием. А так, у Вас отличный канал 👍👍 я подписался. Делайте побольше обучений

[@KarlScaleModeling]

@@mill_airbrush Это определенно одна из причин появления крошечных царапин! Вода важна при шлифовке, чтобы устранить царапины. Я также добавляю в воду жидкое мыло, чтобы максимально минимизировать царапины. Также важно оказывать минимальное давление на наждачную бумагу, чтобы минимизировать появление царапин. Все это имеет значение. Спасибо большое за подписку, очень приятно. Буду продолжать приносить всё больше и больше видео :)

[@brettkp1]

Excellent turorial! How big is the risk of polishing through with the polishing pads? I get the risk with the sandpaper, but I'm curious if it's also something to worry about with the polish?

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello there, thanks for watching and leaving your feedback. That's very appreciated ☺️ honestly, since using the rotary tool to polish, I don't remember ever polishing through. Both with the wool and foam polishing pads. When I was polishing manually, by hand with the paste, I remember there was always that one time when I sanded through in an odd corner or raised part. Obviously, this was because I was making too much pressure on the surface. However with the rotary tool, using 2K clear and making the less pressure possible on the polishing tool, I always managed to get away with a lovely shine without sand throughs! It looks scary having a tool rotating at that speed touching a surface that's so fragile, but once you do it right it's pretty safe in my honest opinion 🙂 hope that helps 👍🏼👍🏼

[@brettkp1]

@@KarlScaleModeling Awesome, thanks for the quick response! I'm looking forward to trying both 2k and this method in the coming days.

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Sure, good luck with that 👍🏼 if I can be of any more help feel free to write again. I tried to explain everything in the tutorial but I'll do my best to explain further 🙂👍🏼

[@PartsTreeC]

Great job :)

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thank you for your feedback, that's very appreciated and so glad you like the video ☺️👍🏼

[@PartsTreeC]

@@KarlScaleModeling Keep on doing what you're doing. :)

[@KarlScaleModeling]

☺️ thank you once again friend. That's really appreciated as such comments fill me with motivation to keep bringing new content to the channel 👍🏼👍🏼

[@sohchx]

The RPM of that rotary tool is far to high. You want a lower RPM to allow the polish to work the surface through low friction. At higher RPM the polish becomes thinned out reducing it's thick consistency while at the same time increasing heat between it and the surface being polished. The high speed also increases the chance of burn through. Also, applying the polish directly to the foam pad instead of the surface to be polished reduces sling, which also wastes product leaving less polish on the surface than you began with.

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello there, first of all thank you for watching the video. That's very appreciated. Also, thanks for your suggestions. Both makes sense and I'll definitely try them out on my next polishing job. I'm not sure if the Dspiae rotary tool can go lower rpm but I do have another rotary tool that definitely goes lower speed. I'm always looking at ways to improve my polishing procedure, so thank you for sharing your ideas with all of us.

[@harveykeeler2661]

What speed did you set the polisher on?

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello there Harvey. The speed on the Dspiae ES-P is set to the first setting (out of 3). I found it the best option; both in terms of speed/polishing and also to take the maximum out of a battery charge. The Dspiae is quite torquey for the size and speed 1 gives good power without slowing down (pressing lightly, as shown in the video). Hope that helps 😊👍🏼

[@pocolashon]

May I ask which backing pad you are using? (care to share the link if it is some "easily available" one, e.g. Amazon, Ali, etc.?) I got the DSPIAE but seems like any pad I get has the shank a bit thicker than 3mm... and 3.1mm doesn't fit into the tool anymore. Really annoying. Thanks a lot!

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Hello there, sure I bought the backing pad from firescale modeler and the shank is 3.0mm. I will leave a link to the exact product at the end of this message. I bought some polishing foam pads from them and added the backing pad since I saw the 3mm marking and it fits perfectly inside the Dspiae ES-P. Here's the product link, hope that helps 😊👍🏼 www.firescalemodeler.com/disc-plate25mm

[@pocolashon]

@@KarlScaleModeling Thank you for the reply, much appreciated! Sadly, this product was out of stock in the time I was purchasing the polishing pads and now the shipping is just too much to order just 1 piece. :( I guess I will toss it in with my next order and meanwhile I will try to grind/sand one of the shanks I have and see whether that helps. Oh well...

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Ohh I see, sorry to hear that. You can definitely try to grind down a 3.1mm into a 3.0mm, however you need to be sure it's done correctly to avoid any wobble which might cause damage to the tool too. I have found the same product from AliExpress too, very cheap too. Have a look, hope this helps you better than my previous link 😊 a.aliexpress.com/_EGQzgW7

[@pocolashon]

@@KarlScaleModeling Well, I ended up ordering it on FSM with another 100 EUR worth of paints, etc. I am sure you know how it goes. :) Let's call it "shipping cost averaging". Haha...

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Haha, ohhh I definitely know how this thing goes!! Sometimes I need just one item and shipping is expensive.. but free if you spend over 50 euros for example.. *me thinking* oh well, might as well get more items and gain free shipping 🤣 Well done.. you have the tool on the way then (among with other useful items from fsm then 😬) Happy Modelling and thanks again for visiting my channel 😊👍🏼

[@goforitpainting]

Cool 👍

[@KarlScaleModeling]

Thank you friend, that's very appreciated and am so glad you like 😊👍🏼