Lost Foam Finned Engine Cylinder Casting

[@mdouglaswray]

That is the neatest little furnace I've seen yet!

[@wesco123]

Magnificent! So fortunate to discover your great content. The kind of man I think we'd all be proud to call a friend. Genuine, intelligent, resourceful, motivated, intrigued by the man wonders in life, an explorer, a gifted talent and a friendly, humble person all around. Maker-builder friends are the best! Keep up the great, exploratory works!!

[@YippeePlopFork]

This is incredibly precise! I’m just getting into casting (beginning to make my own furnace) and although I’m veering towards lost wax, I’m finding all of your videos to be fascinating and very informative. Thank you for sharing your work 👍😊

[@jeronimomurruni]

I just discovered this channel and i instantly subscribed, amazing work. I'd love to see a "working" one cylinder engine made with that big cylinder.

[@mihaimastacaneanu8505]

Hi Kelly, many thanks for your tutorials! I think those two videos you mention are most visited because they depict a summary of best practices to achieve a goal in quality , rather than focusing on a specific result. On the other hand, please mention the material of pouring cup ; I couldn't understand quite well. Good luck!

[@kellycoffield533]

Thanks Mihai. The pouring cup is made from moldable ceramic fiber. There is a video about them on my channel. Best, Kelly kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3rclYJsbqiBl9E

[@mihaimastacaneanu8505]

@@kellycoffield533 Thanks, I owe you a lot in learning how to do things properly and with reasonable costs!

[@glenn9989]

WOW I was just scanning trough my channels and this came up? I have so many questions but will go back and watch some of your old posts.

[@kellycoffield533]

If you are really interested in casting at home you should join www.TheHomeFoundry.org.

[@ColinWatters]

I did sand casting once about 40 years ago. Amazed you can sand cast such thin fins and gaps without the molten metal disturbing the sand.. I'll have to go look at your other vids to see what magic you are working.

[@grinchyface]

The refractory paint helps! It forms a hard shell. I've done some very intricate platinum and stainless castings that occur almost entirely in a refractory dip and the sand is just there for extra support and mass so you can have some control over thermals

[@ColinWatters]

@@grinchyface Ah that makes sense.

[@RC-fp1tl]

@@grinchyface What type of refractory paint, and where can I get some? 😁 It sounds really useful!

[@user-qy9rg3nt2l]

@@RC-fp1tl kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXKeJ6nq9Boo8U

[@Juiceboxer0]

I didnt believe it's just lost foam in dry sand as well. He coats the foam in something similair to ceramic shell casting

[@MackenzieForge]

I'm very impressed at how well that came out.

[@mborowski2010]

I wish I had a neighbor like you around. I always had an interest in casting metal and I finally found the time to start building an at home metal foundry. I'm just going to 3d print designs and use those to cast.. I like your method better though. I'm interested in making a little RC engine to learn that's why I thought fins.. It would be cool to have a small motor I made from scratch. I regained my interest because I need to make some small BLDC motor parts for a project and I have my own design I want to build and try.

[@kellycoffield533]

For very small finely detailed stuffed you may be better of with printed patterns and investment casting. Though those materials are pricier, the molds and patterns are small so not much material or cost involved. For larger machine parts that's a different story and lost foam certainly has advantages. Best, Kelly

[@jamest.5001]

I'd like to cast a couple cylinders for a Scooter, a big bore for a 50cc that allows the use of 150 cc pistons with 57.4mm bore, the largest big bore available isid 52.4 . While it will require case modification, for oil passages ( most likely) id like to also either cast a head that uses the 150cc valves, or modify the case to have the 150 stud pattern so a 150head fits . Cast a cylinder that is shorter than the 150, because of the shorter stroke. Also make the fins longer by about 25% and try to fit another fin or two to both, the head seems to not have much cooling. Or possibly cast a head and cylinder that gets a water jacket welded over it after casting. A piston with smaller wrist pins is also required. If water cooling, cast a new cover to fit over the flywheel to hold water pump that runs on the crank. And a small reservoir tank with 1/2" water hoses, use a heater core for radiator, cast a thermostat housing and water crossover from cylinder to head. Maybe the water pump and impeller also. Use a 6mm stainless rod. With a 17mm docket like coupling to adapt the shaft to the crank by the flywheels nut. The tiny impeller being roughly 3" diameter and 1" thick or less, the engine spinning at or above 10,000 rpm, it should move enough water, since it doesn't operate below 4500. Cast the thermostat housing with a 5/16 bypass. With spring and flap to operate vas a pressure valve, if the pump pushes hard enough it. Opens to prevent cavitation.. Anther thing would be a two cylinder cylinder snd head to make the motor a two cylinder. Instead of welding two together . Use a 50mm or 52.4 mm bore. Using the125cc valves. And mill a camshaft blank from a steel shaft with key ways, and make the lobes from tool steel, and have custom lobes ground after being keyed in place. And silver soldered with a spacer sleeve to hold the bearings and sprocket. Possibly do it differently thatthe welded versions put the timing chain between cylinders and make the right side of the head a mirrored copy of the left side . To prevent interesting sparkplug installation.. sorry to ramble, have a awesome day!🎉✌️

[@mrfxm55]

I've used plaster and wax to make jewelry castings. This is very interesting though I had no idea this was actually a thing. Model makers and prop makers should pay particular attention.

[@markfryer9880]

Hi Kelly, a very interesting video and a very impressive foundry set-up. Good to see you use PPE and a well laid out work area. About the only thing that concerned me was the dumping of the sand on your driveway. I realise that the sand would be warm to hot but it has the potential to pick up some moisture from the cold concrete and judging by the snow bank it was cold. Can I suggest that you pour out your sand in future onto a clean drip tray or similar. It will keep your sand clean and dry and free from any debris that might be on the driveway. That will save having to dry and filter your sand. Apart from that, excellent work and you have got yourself a new subscriber. Mark from Melbourne Australia

[@kellycoffield533]

Hi Mark, for the short story, it's such low value media I've found it better to replace it than renew/recycle it. The long story, it's true, the single most important thing other than refractory for LF sand is that it moves under vibration and dryness is important to that. Their byproducts of decomposed polystyrene degrades the sand with repeated use. You can heat the sand to remove these organics but the energy cost to do so is more than the value of the sand ($20/ton in bulk for $5/5 gal bucket retail). I used my first 300lbs of sand for almost 5 years before I replaced it, and I treated it with disregard, except dryness, and the driveway contact didn't seem to be a problem as long as it was not visibly wet. Any fines or organics I may pick up arent a problem for aluminum. I only perform gross filtering through .090" perfortaed plate to remove clumps. That 5yr old sand saw a lot of use was sufficient for all but the most challenging vibratory packing and fresh ne sand does perform better. Also, since the foundry was allowed to dispose of thir sand in landfills, I assume the same for mine. Now if it was higher value media like the commercial ferrous LF operations, they have fluidizing furnaces to recondition/reclaim the high value media. Best, Kelly

[@3Dprining.I]

art is it !!! do you think can we have a metallurgical picture of your casting in one video? thank you

[@Biokemist-o3k]

Fantastic!! I would love to build a clone of a Harley flatty. Wow you are set up for some big work.

[@prestonengebretson2920]

Beautiful work and I love you Furnace...

[@kellycoffield533]

Thank you Preston. Best, K

[@cohibaguy4981]

What furnace are you using?

[@curvs4me]

I love it! I want to make some serious Corvair heads with heart shaped chamber and boss style ports. This looks like the solution to me. Green sand appears to rough. I've seen people use vacuum on lost wax castings leaving the top wide open. The vacuum can't pull the metal through the sand or plaster so it just sucks the flue down initially and stays there. It removes gas pockets almost instantly as soon as the vacuum hits. You see the dross forming in the flue instantly retract enough to wrinkle the surface and that's it.

[@veeekin9casterman169]

Great Idea ! Many months of hard work may result in a set of heads producing 250hp na from factory short blocks, the objective. Along with all the others into aircooled opposed flat fours and sixes, for the last 60 years, lol. Like my world domination plans, yours includes the canted valve arrangement of the Boss Fords, or semi-hemi, the ports sized for the swept volume of the +2.7L Corvair short blocks. A unique solution to the pushrod angle problems is the secondary pushrod design of the 60's hemi prototypes by GM, so very viable in the Corvair application, and neatly done, allowing 3 and 4 valve variants, heh heh. > A cored watercooling jacket or exhaust valve ' HD loop ' could allow modern turbocharging levels and requisite cooling. A great deal of thought and engineering would have to be exercised for the culmination of 4.2L Corvair Turbo heads, cast, and machined. The lost foam methods demonstrated here is likely the simplest, the cast and coated bigbore cylinders too. Imagination, opportunity and ambition may be sufficient to achieve the necessary desire. ' Simplicity is the highest goal, achievable when you have overcome all difficulties. ' ~ Chopin ' One thing we do know, that we dare not forget, is that better solutions than ours have at times been made by people with much less information than we have. ' ~ Wendell Berry ' Vision without execution is just hallucination. ' ' Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right. ' ~ Henry Ford

[@billallen4793]

There is a guy in town who said he'd sell his corvair part's pile. And 4 or 5 car's, and 8 to 10 engine's in total for 8500.00 if your interested..from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸 🤠

[@KikoValleyMan]

Such great content!👍🏻

[@ThreeTreeDog]

Be careful with those ceramic fibers. Nice work. thats a awesome looking foundry to btw.

[@moonolyth]

Wow, I think I just shit my pants THAT IS AMAZING!!! That is some nice work. I used to work with bronze artsy-fartsy and it was quite a job with plaster and several materials to make a molded shell. I'm supposing using this method with bronze would possibly melt the sand to glass or other. Very impressive what shaking the sand can do, no molasses and CO2, etc. Your designing is without saying, ... .. . is pro.!

[@kellycoffield533]

Lost foam is pretty common in bronze casting. Most of what I have seen is art work. I don't see any problem with the sand, no more so than conventional casting. Any desired mold media can be used if sufficient refractory is a concern. I don't think it is much of concern until iron temps, but the foam patterns are coated which helps prevent mold media burn in and surface penetration. Best, Kelly

[@moonolyth]

@@kellycoffield533 Thank you sir, It's been some time investigating. More resurch needed, for bronz. Looks like I'll be giving it a try soon! Thanks.

[@kellycoffield533]

@@moonolyth LF pattern making takes time and you only get one shot in LF. I suggest you make some simple patterns to test out your coating and packing processes. Positioning of the pattern in the mold is also a critical factor. Too involved of a discussion for here but consider joining www.TheHomeFoundry.org if you haven't already done so. Best, Kelly

[@moonolyth]

@@kellycoffield533 Will do!!

[@robertlafontaine805]

Great video! I have been looking for a method to make parts for my ice fishing product. I have been using steel and welding and grinding takes a lot of time. I had some aluminum parts made that were welded together.

[@robertlafontaine805]

Sorry about that I pushed the wrong button I didn’t finish. I think making the fan blades pictured in my profile would be the best method.

[@НикитаАндреев-ч1ь]

Looks great!!! perfect work!!!

[@kellycoffield533]

Thank you very much!

[@JoseOlmos-dg4kn]

Excelente trabajo 👏... saludos cordiales

[@svenyonson27]

I'd love to see more about your technique for creating the foam molds. I understand the fin cutting part, but the rest is still magic - the radius corners, tapered sides, etc. Did you do this on a CNC machine?

[@kellycoffield533]

These were done on a Pin Router. For the last couple years I've almost exclusively used CNC Router. The best thing to do would be join www.thehomefoundry.org. I have many such threads there and mad many complex patterns without cnc. Here is one such. forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/machining-xps-foam-patterns.14/#post-61 Here is another where I went crazy with the pin router forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/two-barrel-carburetor.947/ . If you search my channel for key word "cyilinder" and "cyl" you'll find a number of shorts. Best, Kelly

[@1967250s]

Neat! Ever try using diamond blades? They have thinner blades.

[@johnoler357]

That looks damn good. What alloy aluminum did you use?

[@kellycoffield533]

A356

[@Gilxen]

I've been casting for a couple years now and am curios, what is the refractory material you coat your foam with, the results are of a far greater quality than i ever expected with plain/fine sand

[@kellycoffield533]

Search my channel. There are dedicated videos on coatings and pattern materials. Best, Kelly

[@czowieklasu2449]

super clean job sir, well done :)

[@robertpeters9438]

What alloy do you use?

[@Unknown-tu2lr]

How much metal is used in casting😮

[@numninja830]

Thank you for this awesome video! I learned a lot. Where do I buy aluminum shot or pellets that are the right alloy for water cooled two stroke engines?

[@user-rp4je2gc2o]

I'm interested in this too, could old, used 2 stroke cilinders be re-melted ? I have some damaged ones laying around. However, would you have the chrome or nicasil lined or would you press a cilinder sleeve? I want to make a custom cilinder for my moped to use a yz80 sleeve

[@daos3300]

use old engine blocks/cylinder heads, plenty of quality material from bikes and cars available, pretty cheap too.

[@dilbertfirestorm4851]

nothing special about quikrete???? lol. this is fast drying concrete using a different process. its interesting that you're using this for lost cast molding. is this method useful for anything else?

[@kellycoffield533]

The refererence was not to Quickrete concrete. It was Quickrete brand extra fine graded, washed, and dried sand you can buy by the bag in the big box stores in the building material section. Even though it's classed as fine, it is still in the 50-55 mesh range which is actually quite coarse for foundry sand......and beyond that it is nothing special....just graded silica sand and the branding doesn't matter. As far as lost foam mold media goes, the relatively uniform size is helpful, but dryness is a must. By comparison, the so-called "Play Sand" is usually very poor because it is neither consistant size (graded) nor dry. Best, Kelly

[@donniewatson9120]

Have you thought of using lost PLA casting. Use a 3D printer to print a 3D model of the part in PLA and the do the rest of the process the same.

[@kellycoffield533]

It's a good process and I like lost PLA for small parts but not large ones like my intake manifold videos. The rest of the process is not the same. The biggest difference is that you must do a burn out step to remove the PLA from the mold in lost PLA which is not done in LF. PLA will not burn out from the mold as molten is poured like XPS foam will. For parts as small as the ones in this video, the cost and labor differences are not as profound, but for a larger part like my intake manifold videos, the differences are extreme. For larger parts like those, that would take a very large kiln and probably over a week to burn out a mold that size in block invetsment, and definitely a kiln for the temps required to fire shell. A pattern that size would be $200-500 worth of PLA (at least the type preferred for such), and about the same for professional block investment or shell mold material of which there would be 300-500lbs required. So, you'd have somewhere between $500-$1000 into the pattern and mold. I have $5 in pattern and mold material and I can reuse the mold material, so really just the cost of the foam, which is maybe $1. It would take a week to build a shell mold on a large part . It would take a few hours to mix and invest it in block. Then the lengthy firing time. It takes 15 minutes to pack the lost foam pattern in dry sand ready to pour. With shell or block investment you must chip away the mold and have to dispose of all the spent mold material. In lost foam I just dump it on the ground and the coating falls off in the water. I resue the sand. The smaller parts in this video were just samples showing their features could be done in lost foam. Lost PLA would still be signifcantly more expensive and more laborious than LF, for them, just not as extreme as for larger parts which I more frequently cast. Best, Kelly

[@donniewatson9120]

@Kelly Coffield , PLA not burning out properly is more about the wrong type and excessive infill. Keeping it 10% or less and using lightening infill or, if possible, no infill will allow large castings to work as well. However, something as complex as an intake manifold would likely still have issues. I was thinking the cylinders would be straightforward using PLA with the right infill. Another thing that would help is adding sodium silicate to the sand before filling in around the mold.

[@kellycoffield533]

@@donniewatson9120 I didnt say anything about PLA not burining out "properly". I said it cant be burned out/evaporated during the actual molten metal pour like polystryrene foam does. It wont matter how you set your infill because it's too dense. Lost PLA requires an extra step to burn out and fire the investment or shell mold. Lost foam does not. Best, Kelly

[@donniewatson9120]

@@kellycoffield533, I've seen it done on more than one occasion. So, we'll have to agree to disagree.

[@kellycoffield533]

@@donniewatson9120 OK, make a believer out of me. Do it and post your results. It's been tried a dozen times at the casting forum and all it's ever done is produce incomplete or unusable ugly castings full of flaws and poor metal quality. Now the traditional lost PLA process not so, but as I said much more expensive and laborious for parts of any appreciable size. Best, Kelly

[@j121212100]

What kind of foam are you using?

[@kellycoffield533]

View my video entitle "Pattern Materials for Lost Foam Casting". Best, Kelly

[@Chuongcreator]

wow

[@Bob_Adkins]

First time I ever saw a foundry that neat and clean. The neatness is also reflected in the quality of the work.

[@olio_benzina]

The foundry I worked in never had sunshine, fresh air, birds singing, clean work surfaces or snow! Beautiful castings and clever technique, well done!

[@TheDandyMann]

Man that sounds like a drag, how did you cope with it? 😉

[@olio_benzina]

@@TheDandyMann Family business! I used to help out when they were busy or short on staff. Usually 1-4 weeks at a time. It was primitive, dark with smoke and fumes. Just like the Industrial Revolution times but I learned basic foundry technique.

[@thehydroblade]

I spent a fortune on Petrobond to turn out mediocre castings. You make magic with an 8 dollar bag of sand from the Home Depot. Respect.

[@Normjohanson]

I'm a machinist, but am working with pattern makers. Seeing how others do this stuff makes a lot of this coherent when they give me instructions. Thank you and Merry Christmas

[@Tristoo]

hi, I have no experience with casting but I find these videos incredibly interesting, so excuse my perhaps ridiculous question: how come the sand didn't collapse as the aluminum melted through the foam? for instance the "tube" on top seems like it would melt and the surrounding sand collapse into the hole. The only thing I can think of is that because the sand is cold any aluminum that touches it instantly solidifies, or maybe that the sand becomes rigid with the high heat, or you could just be a wizard haha. So how come it works?

[@kellycoffield533]

When the sand is vibrated, it becomes loosely bound by the mechanical contact of the granular media. It's not bound as tightly as green clay or chemically bound sand, but more so than non-vibrated/compacted sand. As the metal evaporates and replaces the foam it creates pressure on the mold wall which also helps hold the sand in place until it solidifies. Best, Kelly

[@mad1337nes]

There's also a refractory slurry dip @7:00 ish that plays a pretty big part. Effectively a ceramic coating that keeps the sand from sticking to the metal and keeps the foam holding the shape even as it melt/burns off. The part isn't metal to sand, it's metal to ceramic.

[@tenlittleindians]

@@mad1337nes Your right in this case but many people do it without the slurry. A company I bought a melting pot from specialized in making machine gun parts for the military. They used wax patterns (lost wax casting) but dipped the wax in a slurry first and when it was partly dry they dipped them in fine sand and then let the slurry fully dry. They would come back later and repeat the process to build up a heavy coating on the outside. After fully drying they went into a burn out oven to completely remove the wax and turn the slurry coating to glass. While still red hot they then poured the metal. After cooling they dipped into cold water to shock the glass casing and most of it would fall away. The parts came out perfect.

[@mad1337nes]

@@tenlittleindians sure, but the original question was "how do you do sand casting with no defects from sand particles?" and the answer is, and always will be, don't have sand be the final barrier. The OP guessed correctly. Myfordboy does plenty of green sand casting bare/directly to sand...and you can always see some minor imperfections (which is fine when it's getting milled to final anyways).

[@tenlittleindians]

@@mad1337nes Myfordboy also does a lot of investment casting these days and uses his 3D printed parts instead of foam patterns. All methods mentioned work it's just a matter of how much detail you need in your final product. A company I worked for still gets their split mold petrobond sand castings from India and then finish machines them into industrial hydraulic valves. I've got a centrifugal caster in my basement for objects I investment cast. If all I needed was a sledge hammer head I'm sure the sand alone would get the job done provided it's vibration packed. Another old video here shows the vibration process. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKnGeGqDe5V-f6c When 3D metal printers become common none of us will be casting.

[@tomiossi8092]

Just as they say in medicine, that is art and science. I marvel at your abilities, sir. Nice work.

[@leighharron]

Dangerously inspirational! I may give this method a go at some point, your results are great 👍 The surface finish on the large piece looks really good in the video. Thanks for sharing

[@borricoyyo]

I come from the lost wax casting process where I have worked all my life and never thought one could cast any metal in loose sand ,let alone do it and get such wonderfull results.Amazing !!!!! thank you for the experience .

[@automan1223]

The first engines to be mass produced using lost foam were Saturn blocks & cylinder heads. You could actually see the foam patterns in the castings.

[@foxman105]

You can still see them in some newer engines. Styrofoam pattern on the inside of the valve covers ect.

[@MrWaalkman]

I was going to say the same thing. I worked for Saturn and it was cool to watch a casting being poured by a robot. :)

[@chrisgenovese8188]

ive been smelting and casting the last year and a half, and i thought i had seen it all on youtube, but i got so many good ideas on just this one video! your set up and the results are stunning. i absolutely cant wait to watch some more!

[@billlupton3639]

Wow I’m impressed. That sure is a nice kiln.🐜billy

[@notamouse5630]

10:30 Its a good thing those casters have no ball bearings, they would be destroyed between the powdery sand and the vibration induced denting of the races. Also don't breathe that silica dust, keep a vacuum on when pouring it. Reminds me of the poofing that garlic powder does sometimes. To avoid that dust, commercial casting to near net shape often uses a specific ceramic slurry and coarser sand.

[@kellycoffield533]

The casters have bearings. Still going strong after years. The sand is washed and dried 45-55 mesh. -Very coarse by foundry standards. You'd get more exposure on a walk at the beach. Best, Kelly

[@Tanzotown]

I am so glad to be sharing this country with people like you! Thanks so much for all you do!

[@indianchief741]

I’ve been in the foundry biz for 36 years, your furnace is over kill! But nice😅

[@zaprodk]

For future videos, maybe see if you can set the audio levels for each clip/scene. The main part of the video is extremely low so i had to turn up the audio all the way, with the result of almost blowing the speakers when you turned on the vibrator. I guess you selected audio for the whole project at once and did a "normalise" which gained everything else down. Very interesting content, but the audio issues made it a chore to watch.

[@mikemoore9757]

Are you using EPS foam or Styrofoam? Open cell or closed cell? Your results are very nice! I assume you allow for a shrink factor on those castings. We were using 3/16" per foot. That motorcycle cylinder you cast is beautiful. Thanks for the video!

[@kellycoffield533]

Styrofoam is a Dow tradename for polystyrene foam. EPS is Expanded PolyStyrene. It's typically white and is made from expanded beads. I use Extruded PolyStyrene insulation board XPS or eXPS for short. They are all closed cell. Dow colors theirs blue, Owens Corning pink....and there are others all available in the home improvement stores. I use 1.3% shrink for aluminum which is very close to 5/32" per foot. Best, Kelly

[@JulianMakes]

My goodness your furnace on wheels is amazing. Please tell me you have a video on it? Brilliant video, you’ve blown my mind with those fins. I have just the project I’d like to try this with. Thanks so much!

[@researchandbuild1751]

This is my favorite method of casting, less messy and easier to get right. Nice dry loose sand, done.

[@adh615]

They came out really well, excellent work !

[@kellycoffield533]

Thank you Andreas. Best, K

[@cilliancrean4106]

try make a liquid piston engine

[@EMNM22]

Id love to see you build a motor for a bicycle like the old boardtrackers! I love this kind of stuff!

[@jorgecortes2687]

Hello, how are you ... the foam patterns were made by you or you had them made to a company ....... if you made them you have to upload the video of how you made them ......... You are obliged haha ..... greetings from Mexico.

[@IngeBall]

Channel gold right here! Subbed ☺

[@kellycoffield533]

Awesome, thank you!

[@gaildimick1831]

That’s “talent”. Great work. Wish you were my neighbor. Thanks for the video

[@kennethlang5669]

I want to cast antique boat deck vents. Simple sand cast, however I'd like to use this lost foam process. How would you suggest I make the foam patterns without CNC milling out of foam block. I have an original vent as the pattern. How do I make the foam copy?

[@en2oh]

GREAT JOB! I only wish you'd used a respirator mask to protect against silica dust.

[@paradiselost9946]

what the hell foam is that? i tried lost foam lost wax lost everything... investment being the issue as we dont get it by the bucket here... and finally gave up and just ran greensand, split moulds... seemed to work first time no probs. but wtf, thats just plain sand and foam?

[@hoppercar]

I don't see how just vibrating the sand into place, keeps the molten aluminum from washing the mold away ?

[@stormiewutzke4190]

This is the information I have been looking for. Thanks for sharing. If you read this I am a welder and knife maker as well as just learning how to build all sorts of stuff myself. I might be open to some labor swapping down the road if you have any interest.

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work

[@gondrongtechnic]

Sangat sempurna senang bisa belajar dari kamu, seandainya rumahmu dekat aku pasti akan sangat senang mengerjakan proyek yang indah ini

[@Henrik.Yngvesson]

You don't want the fins too tight cause then they'll restrict air flow and act more like an insulator than coolers. There's a study on it but can't find it right now.

[@Stopinvadingmyhardware]

Guy can build an extrusion machine, he’s still pouring hot melt.

[@stefanmargraf7878]

Ha ha, the classic guy makes it looks easy (and may be he believe that). I see numerous failure until i would eventually reach that level. Years...

[@Obscure121gw]

Might not want to breathe too much of that sand dust. It can cause Silicosis of the lungs. Great video btw.

[@lederman1976]

Want to make 2 cylinders for me. I will send you the originals and pay u

[@2000freefuel]

I'd really like to make a Vee-twin motorcycle engine based on the 2 stroke Detroit Diesel 6V53.

[@ПавелТерн]

Восхитительно, работал на художественном литье - алюминий, латунь, работали страмбованными опоками, с моделями из под ЧПУ, из МДФ. И с выплавляемыми восковыми моделями, вы наверное льете , что то типа пенопластовых (полистироловых) моделей? Чудесно организовано, и произведено!

[@shazizz]

I would like to speak with you, how can we make that happen ? :)

[@valeriboman641]

Hey What is this foam, mark? Greetings from finland. Thanks to video

[@duskintheforest584]

That's impressive. You could copy any bike engine

[@tiagocosta9714]

awesome video. please don't stop making videos and sharing your knowledge

[@EndroEndro]

step by step you could make a engine. And it would be looking like from a factory

[@fabiotrank411]

Useful and very interesting video, but.... audio "di merda"

[@ZelosZelo]

very hard to hear you. i dont wanna turn my sound up that loud bc itll blow the speaker when a commercial comes on.

[@sidneyking11]

I have an aluminum outboard motor mount that broke. Could you cast a replacement one for me?

[@catchulater7483]

Building the pattern is what i watched the video for. No pattern build… disappointment

[@kellycoffield533]

Cant do the blow by blow for every video but there's more on making the pattern here at the casting forum. You may have to join to see th epics. forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/motorcycle-cylinder-sample.1521/ Best, Kelly

[@davidrabin7287]

Is there is a video on how did you make does pink and Blue Engine Finney?

[@rosiehawtrey]

I'm thinking air cooled triumph vitesse 👌

[@tonyalto1014]

Excellent work! I've tried a few lost foam projects and I was never able to get that nice of a finish on the parts. Do you have a recipe for the slurry you use to coat the patterns? I have used a thin mix of plaster of Paris, which gave me great results on my lost wax castings, but I never tried it on fo patterns.

[@kellycoffield533]

I use a commercial coating but non-setting drywall joint compound thinned with water to the desired consistency is a decent substitute for non-ferrous casting. The finish will never be better than that on the pattern. The insulation board foam finish can be improved with light sanding up to 320 grit. Best, Kelly

[@585ronin]

If you have a milling machine stack some slitting saws.

[@Nifilheimur]

Absolutely facinating work! Your foundry is one hell of a machine also. Subbed!

[@maximme]

i wonder if these tools are available in Cuba, seems like a perfect fit for their needs there.

[@duard1220]

Excellent video! Thanks!!

[@rufustoad1]

Can you tell me where you purchase your SLURRY from and would it work with iron? Also I am sorry I missed the materials used 11:49 for the pouring cup?

[@LuxGamer16]

Its 3 videos after this video. Refractory coatings. Explains a diy version as well

[@en2oh]

Just an observation. It looks like you have a small (?) fortune in your furnace! Seriously, I hope you do some machining in these castings and take one from "foam-to-pattern-pour" and show us your work! Excellent video... thanks for sharing this :)

[@kellycoffield533]

Not a fortune but some time. It has evolved over a number of years. You just need to peruse some of the more recent videos on my channel to see finished projects. Best, Kelly

[@slommer5063]

Mr. Coffield, when it comes to this work you are a true artist. The video content and your results are a benchmark. Thank you for sharing your expertise.

[@kellycoffield533]

That's very kind of you to say. Glad you enjoyed the video. Best, K

[@loveller]

Am I the only person that wished you cooled the casting in the snow instead of the bucket of water?

[@kellycoffield533]

Water is much faster than snow because the entire part is immersed and in complete contact with the casting. The steam generated when immersed in water removes nearly all the refractory coating and captures it in the bucket, so no mess. Best, Kelly

[@truethought369]

This is very interesting! How does the blue pattern disappear when you pour the alloy in? I do like the motorcycle cylinder, that will polish up really well. Thanks for your info.

[@kellycoffield533]

It's evaporated by the heat of the molten metal and the gas escpaes into the mold as the metal replaces the volume occupied by the foam. Best, Kelly

[@rexmundi8154]

Slotting saws for milling machines come in all sizes.

[@snagle87]

Nice work! Where you source you material for the pouring cups you made? What brand is the moldable ceramic fiber? Thanks.

[@kellycoffield533]

Inswoool. I bought the moldable and pumpable ceramic fiber from my local refractory supply distributor. Inswool is a Harbison Walker brand but there are many, like Kawool, Fiberfrax, and others. They are all air setting moldable alumina silicate mixes, usually available in a caulking tube, 1 gal, 5 gal sizes. Moldable is putty like, and pumpable is like pudding. Moldable works best for forming shapes, pumpable as glue, filling cracks and patching. It can be bought online. Search "moldable ceramic fiber". You'll occasionally find it on eBay and Amazon. Shop price.....it can vary significantly but is all the same stuff. Also, search my channel for a video entitled "Reusable Pouring Basin" for more info. Best, Kelly

[@bluehornet6752]

That's an AMAZING result man! Excellent job--and a great video. Thanks for making it!

[@kellycoffield533]

Glad you liked it!

[@mesaman3000]

very interesting process, with great results!!! Like others, I have a couple questions if you dont mind.... How much material do you leave for machining? I.E. How much undersize is the bore so that you can machine the proper diameter? How much extra thickness do you leave for machining the flanges, where the heads and block would mount?

[@kellycoffield533]

On the large cylinder .063" would probably be enough but I'd allow .125" machine stock on all surfaces just in case there were some surface imprefectins in the casting. Half that on the small castings. Best, Kelly

[@12т-д5п]

Hi Kelly I was very impressed by your video! If possible, please tell me what brand of polystyrene you use and what non-stick coating?

[@kellycoffield533]

If you search my channel there is a video dedicated to pattern materials and another for coatings. Best, Kelly

[@MaintDocs]

5 min in. Seems to me like you could significantly improve the odds for vertical fins by adding a foam bar just touching the fins, so it acts like a sprue. In fact, I think you can see where they've done that on old motorcycle engines, then trimmed it off. I see a slight raise, presumably so they can trim the sprue bar off via thin layers just underneath the bar, rather than having to cut/machine bar thickness off.

[@kellycoffield533]

I think the reason you see that on old air cooled engine sand castings is to better support the fin features and add mold strength. Fin breakage is the classic issue in air cooled engine cylinders. There are old WWII videos out there showing the extremes foundries went to to address this issue on the old radial engines. The fins are much better fed from the more massive cylinder wall and it's easy to deliver hot metal from there, and, you get a net shape part that requires nor finishing. Sometimes they left the supports in place on the casting because the fins buzzed from harmonics like a tuning fork. Best, Kelly

[@maximme]

so as you pour molten Alu, the foam would bubble out of the sand? That's a safety concern too, right ? How do you control the rate of pour I must say, the finished product look AMAZING. there are no sharp edges and very fine shape came out nicely

[@kellycoffield533]

It doesn't quite "bubble" through. The foam melts and then evaporates into gas where it meets the advancing molten metal front. Most of the foam escapes through the permeable refractory coating as gas into the dry, unbound, sand. Some passes through as liquid, but very little. The safety concern would be breating the gaseous decomposed polystyrene. I use a respirator for larger pours but always pour outside and avoid the fumes. Most of that exposure comes when demolding, though obviously some from the pour. Best, Kelly