Am I the only person that wished you cooled the casting in the snow instead of the bucket of water?

Have you ever not coated your feeders? I was wondering because I saw another ytber do a lost foam casting without a coating and it turned out somewhat workable. If I had a feeder on top of my casting that wasn't coated(with the drywall compound) I would assume that would greatly reduce the amount of gasses wanting to come out the pouring basin. I hope I explained that sufficiently.

My goodness your furnace on wheels is amazing. Please tell me you have a video on it? Brilliant video, you’ve blown my mind with those fins. I have just the project I’d like to try this with. Thanks so much!

Nice work, I appreciate showing dimensions for the head, wanted to ask if you happen to have the full dims including the vertical? They were out of the screen boundary.

Dear sir I would like to know what this material (foam) that the mold is made of, how it is made or what is its name. I wish you success and thank you very much

Dear sir I would like to know what this material (foam) that the mold is made of, how it is made or what is its name. I wish you success and thank you very much

I'm sure you got it figured out in the later vids, but my thought to fix the sand vibrating issue would be to lay the manifold flat and fill it up with sand the best you can, then take very thin long strips of sheet metal and use a few tiny drops of super glue to hold it in place, then insert the manifold into the vibrator vertically as you did, then fill it with sand. At this point you have sand "outside" and inside, with the thin metal sheets holding the packed sand in place inside the nooks and crannies. Then once you're vibrating, pull the sheets free and pull them out slowly, and any gap that was left in its place would be quickly filled up with sand even though you rotated the part around. SO this way there's no sand that needs to flow "uphill"

very cool

Great video!!!

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Fantastic videos and awesome foundry and shop. I worked for Precision Castparts Corp. for 35 years and I can offer a bit of advice on your dipping process. Dip the mold in your slurry and then sprinkle sand on the wet mix. We did that in multiple layers, up to ten layers thick, and this eliminated the need to cast in a sand bucket. You will wind up with a 'shell' that needs to be removed, but it chips off pretty easy. Our molds were lost wax, but it is the same process. Keep up the great work!

Thanks for the great video and information on lost foam. Sub you. Great info for foam cutting. Thanks for sharing with the community.😎😎⛏⛏🔥🔥

Sangat sempurna senang bisa belajar dari kamu, seandainya rumahmu dekat aku pasti akan sangat senang mengerjakan proyek yang indah ini

What do you do for a living? Very good work.

Looks great.

What is the foam material?

Your abilities are amazing and I have examples to back that up 🤩 feels as though I’ve finally meet that person ( Kevinsownboss 😉)

This is awesome!

Can you "glue" the foam together with a wax? Like jewelers wax or something? If not I guess coating in wax could give a exceptionally smooth surface finish, especially in areas where there is multiple joints. Over a sanded finish?

8:03 I thought about making one of these boards using pladtic beads that would seal the hole i it was uncovered when the vacuum us turned on. If something covering the holes, the vacuum will pull it down. It would be a pain to assemble. Multiple layers, then tiny beads and possibly springs and the with holes on roughly 5/16" - 3/8" centers, automatically closing when turned on if not covered the rushing air moves the bead sealing the holes. It could be interesting..

What, no bug catcher, or bird catcher, maybe Terror Dactyle catcher scoop? I have been thinking about building a micro foundry.. maybe make a bottom pouring crucible using a 8"stainless disc, about 1/8"-1/4" thick. With 4"- 5" hole for pouring. That can open with hot aluminum inside and close back with a funel to work with the outlet in the crucible. With the control by a 1/2" rod and held with 1.5" pipe. Working together. With quick and easy removal. Even at 1000°f+ possibly using ceramic insulation coatings and graphite. Use a waste oil and propane as fuel. I also want to cast iron and mild steel, maybe use a bit of nitrous oxide to provide additional o2 and heat while burning the waste oil. About 1/2 pound to 1lb per hour. Should be extremely hot! I have a 1,lb bottle toexperi experiment with , hopefully i will not have a meltdown! Great video! I hope tobe 1/100 as good as you, thank you for all the info, have an awesome day !!🎉

I just got more useful information of what to use and not to use from this 24min video than I have from the hours of videos I’ve watched on this subject. I’m new to this.

Holy crap. I have a boss headed mercruisuer but no intake. Was gong to machine one in billet but not for the a1000. Are you planning to sell the castings or was this a one and done?

Thank you for sharing your videos and expertise, castings are second to none. Could you let me know the most suitable aluminium to cast similar parts to produce a rigid cnc machine? Thank you in advance.

I'd like to cast a couple cylinders for a Scooter, a big bore for a 50cc that allows the use of 150 cc pistons with 57.4mm bore, the largest big bore available isid 52.4 . While it will require case modification, for oil passages ( most likely) id like to also either cast a head that uses the 150cc valves, or modify the case to have the 150 stud pattern so a 150head fits . Cast a cylinder that is shorter than the 150, because of the shorter stroke. Also make the fins longer by about 25% and try to fit another fin or two to both, the head seems to not have much cooling. Or possibly cast a head and cylinder that gets a water jacket welded over it after casting. A piston with smaller wrist pins is also required. If water cooling, cast a new cover to fit over the flywheel to hold water pump that runs on the crank. And a small reservoir tank with 1/2" water hoses, use a heater core for radiator, cast a thermostat housing and water crossover from cylinder to head. Maybe the water pump and impeller also. Use a 6mm stainless rod. With a 17mm docket like coupling to adapt the shaft to the crank by the flywheels nut. The tiny impeller being roughly 3" diameter and 1" thick or less, the engine spinning at or above 10,000 rpm, it should move enough water, since it doesn't operate below 4500. Cast the thermostat housing with a 5/16 bypass. With spring and flap to operate vas a pressure valve, if the pump pushes hard enough it. Opens to prevent cavitation.. Anther thing would be a two cylinder cylinder snd head to make the motor a two cylinder. Instead of welding two together . Use a 50mm or 52.4 mm bore. Using the125cc valves. And mill a camshaft blank from a steel shaft with key ways, and make the lobes from tool steel, and have custom lobes ground after being keyed in place. And silver soldered with a spacer sleeve to hold the bearings and sprocket. Possibly do it differently thatthe welded versions put the timing chain between cylinders and make the right side of the head a mirrored copy of the left side . To prevent interesting sparkplug installation.. sorry to ramble, have a awesome day!🎉✌️

Can you tell me where you purchase your SLURRY from and would it work with iron? Also I am sorry I missed the materials used 11:49 for the pouring cup?

If someone, say, designed a cylinder head….would you help cast it?

Hey kelly. I designed an intake plenum manifold. its much simpler than your intake runners and I am trying to find out how to make a lost foam casting jig out of it. However if you have no interest in helping me achieve this, could you point me in the right direction to have you do it for a cost?

Im making something similar and would like to talk to you about possibly collaborating, can i reach you on social media?

How much do you design into it for shrinking?

Who needs a CNC machine! Great job...

This guy just did everything with his macines. What about little info how the actual casting has been made. If everyone had things like he owns i wouldn't need a casting.

Amazing!

I come from the lost wax casting process where I have worked all my life and never thought one could cast any metal in loose sand ,let alone do it and get such wonderfull results.Amazing !!!!! thank you for the experience .

Always wondered what a vacuum casting process would look like, especially at 'DIY' scale. Always impressed with the creativity AND the execution. Stubbornness is an underrated trait.

Absolutely amazing. How does the sand not move when the molten aluminum is poured in? Seems to me like it would all cave in but it doesn't. I'm going to keep researching this and then start making my own molds as well.

Thank you for this great information. 👍

Thank you my friend this was so helpful for a newbie like me, just about to start having a try at this technique . Big thanks for the urethane foam tip. I was about to cast some rubber moulds to cast 2x part urethane parts in. (for repeated consistent models) New sub for sure.👍

What an amzing description of the art of pattern making, thank you

How much would it cost to have one of these intakes for my Cleveland made?

I love what it looks like but can I get that in Philippines,

How much stroke would be ideal for a pen router set up something like you built, I would like to build one. Any valuable information you are willing to share. Thanks.

Thanks so much for shearing our knowledge and experiences

Thanks! The talent you have is amazing!

10:30 Its a good thing those casters have no ball bearings, they would be destroyed between the powdery sand and the vibration induced denting of the races. Also don't breathe that silica dust, keep a vacuum on when pouring it. Reminds me of the poofing that garlic powder does sometimes. To avoid that dust, commercial casting to near net shape often uses a specific ceramic slurry and coarser sand.

Excelente trabajo 👏... saludos cordiales

What is the purpose of the weir?

Cool. Thanks for sharing.

Subscribed. I'm impressed.