Lucas motorcycle Dynamo checked for output and discussed.

This is in no way meant to be a 'how to fix your dynamo'' video, but is just to illustrate a couple of methods which can be used to check for any life coming from them. The F and D terminals from the dynamo are joined into one wire and connected either to one terminal of a power source, while the body [earth] is connected to the other terminal, to try to 'motor' it, or they are connected [F and D still together and with the second lead from the bulb going to the dynamo body or earth] to a bulb of suitable voltage and wattage, while the dynamo is driven, to hopefully light the bulb and visually confirm a charge is coming from the dynamo.

[@glaicogobbo4046]

It is admirable that magdinamo works perfectly, even with sawdust that dries out the lubrication. There is no sparking between collector and brushes, indicating perfect isolation between the collector lamellae and grounding between the housings, in addition to indicating that the liming of the collector in relation to the shaft has not been changed, indicating that the winding has not been changed. With the D+ output and the F+ field with full excitation, without going through the field resistance, it is producing a good load, being able to turn on the 12 lamp since there is no voltage control regulated by the field resistance or the regulator. After this cleaning and lubrication service, this magdynamo was in perfect condition to maintain the motorcycle's electrical consumption for a long time. A new battery is necessary so that the regulator is not damaged due to the lack of internal resistance in the circuit and therefore the dynamo. Another quality service from Performance Classics!

[@hermangibbs8163]

Fascinating. Thanks Paul.

[@derekgee8504]

Good one Paul thank you

[@aumkar2]

Thanks Paul!

[@highdownmartin]

Chuck key left. In chuck? Naughty Paul!

[@paulhenshaw4514]

Did I? - Oh, no!

[@thra5herxb12s]

The MCR type mechanical regulators are good at killing dynamos. Also using a battery that's too small also burns out regs and dynamos. The makers and repairers tell you to use a battery no less than 10 amp hour. This means that 4.5ah miniature batteries in a dummy battery case is far too small and need to be doubled up inside the case. Also a good solid state regulator is the way to go these days, and they fit inside the MCR housing.

[@roeng1368]

I have the dynamo out of the A10 to paint at the mo, i must test it with this battery charger method and see how it is. Probably dodgy bearings at least i would expect.

[@curtisarmstrong6521]

Great testing Paul...guess I’d better do mine...lol

[@shug831]

"Lucas," Prince of Darkness. 🤣

[@kevinscudamore2711]

👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@keithchessun5085]

All the dynamos I've motored seem to rumble even though the bearing are A1. I think it's some sort of magnetic reaction because they spin silently when turned with a drill.

[@thra5herxb12s]

That is the case indeed when using a battery charger because its output is not smoothed. Motoring with a battery makes no rumble, but still not dead smooth as like you say, when turned with a drill.

[@mickducati1947]

😜👍

[@Cobra427Veight]

Hi Paul , I have two old bikes BSA AND Matchless singles with dynamos but they haven't Ever had the wiring for the dynamo hooked up while I've owned them , can you tell me if I can install my magdyno and run the engine without any wires hooked up to it ? Previously had no gear , or will it damage something? Sorry to ask but that sort of stuff isn't written in any books I've got , hopefully I can get it wired ok with new DVR2 it's going 12v conversion armature etc . Cheers

[@paulhenshaw4514]

Hi - yes, you can run the dynamo while it is not connected up, no problem.

[@Jolly-Josh]

Take that chuck key out of your lathe chuck!!

[@paulhenshaw4514]

I am sure I wouldn't have left it there for long! As it happens, the starter capacitor is kapput and I have to spin the chuck by hand for it to start anyway, but point taken!