How to fix or HACK the Infinity Lights on your Clean Sweep Plush Crane - PCB Claw repair

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[@kevinbingham3941]

Your videos have helped me fix my claw machine thanks for posting

[@LyonsArcade]

Very cool Kevin glad it helped you out!

[@kevinbingham3941]

@@LyonsArcade i will try to fix my pcb for the lights next. If unsuccessful would you consider me mailing it to you to fix for a fee? some of my lights do not blink.

[@jayden6538]

I really like the look of these claw machines. The text looks cool, the infinity lights look amazing, and I also really like the artwork on the sides. I would even say these look better than some newer claw machines.

[@LyonsArcade]

To me they do... They're old school enough that they're starting to be 'back in style'. The new ones are so cartoony I don't know if long term they'll be collectible, but I don't blame them for making them eye catching to kids!

[@ericyoung6385]

I will never fix an arcade machine, yet, I keep watching these ever since LGR mentioned your business.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Eric!

[@marksmith-ew7ir]

Don't worry I am subscribe and to Dornie channel as well he is funny to watch but I learn loads from you I have even sent others to you channel to for valuations on a pin ball machine here in the big pond England

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Mark, we appreciate you watching... Donnie says thanks!

[@PlumGurly]

As for the white chips, I'm not sure, but those might be optocouplers. That makes sense as those would help prevent the 120 volts from running in on the other voltage should something fail. The voltage will not pass through the LED if the photocell or phototransistor half burns out because a triac failed. If the above is true, then this is a good design. The control logic is isolated on the power side through the transformer, and it is isolated on the control side through optocouplers.

[@LyonsArcade]

I've seen optocouplers in similar things before and they do look like that, that's interesting... I'm going to upload a video next week where we repaired a rock Ola jukebox power supply, it had a really cool design where the cpu sends a ground signal to the power supply to turn an optocoupler on, which is used to turn on the 120v to the turntable. It also turns on a relay we had to replace, you'll probably see the video it'll be right up your alley, very cool design...

[@ToploadedGaming]

Nice job. Really cool. I wish I could learn this stuff. But I already have so many damn hobbies and stuff i do already.

[@LyonsArcade]

Man I know the feeling. I really enjoy fixing them so I spend a lot of time on that, but I have 100 other things I also want to do but don't have the time.

[@PlumGurly]

I would have reflowed it for sure (had it not been bad). If the solder looks like an "onion," it might not be touching. And yeah, triacs make more sense. I think SCRs control DC. Another hack, though not something I'd recommend, but you could possibly put a resistor (or 2) from the hot to a diode, and possibly connect the neutral to the other side of the secondary. As for the transformer, it seems they are using double half-wave rectification to get full-wave rectification at half voltage, with the center tap used as one polarity, and the other polarity coming from the outside wires sent through diodes and added together in parallel. Generally, you need 4 diodes for full-wave rectification. But if you use a center-tapped transformer that puts out twice the voltage you need, you can get by with 2 diodes. The voltage from the center to each other leg is 180 degrees out of phase, electrically, so while they are 2 half-wave circuits, they capture opposite halves of the output winding, and the diodes not only rectify, but add the voltage from the one circuit to the 0-volt gap in the other, and vice-versa, giving full-wave rectification. I am not sure why they would do this instead of 4 diodes, but I guess this is due to heat from constant use and having a fall-back if a diode opens (not as stable and rougher on the capacitor, but likely it still works). You only work the transformer half as hard since each circuit opens up every 1/60 second. One-half of the secondary is used when the primary goes up, and the other half is used when it goes down. So the transformer runs cooler than if you use one at half-voltage with 4 diodes. So a beefier transformer ran half as hard. If I can be briefer, you have 2 half-wave output circuits with the center tap in common that are combined through the 2 diodes to create a full-wave output equal to the voltage between the center tap and one of the 2 other legs. Then the capacitor smooths it, since even "full-wave" rectification still has some ripple.

[@LyonsArcade]

You would have fit right in the coin op industry, as you can see they had all kinds of little problems they needed to design unique circuits to solve.... all these little boards are really clever, some are simple some are ingenious....

[@PlumGurly]

@@LyonsArcade -- Thanks. I'd have probably enjoyed it, but I didn't know as much several decades ago.

[@ScottyBenzIDNWH]

Thanks for this. I've got the board going now!! Do you know what size of bulb base these use?

[@samplesmasher]

Very nice! Are there any schematics available for this PCB? It doesn't look too complicated to build this by myself.

[@LyonsArcade]

I'm sure there are in something, it's from Smart Industries so any of their cranes used the same board for awhile. You could probably mock one up just looking at the board, like you said it's very simple.

[@MickeyMousePark]

you mentioned that you did not know what the transformer output should be ..since it is running through a 7805 ...the output of the transformer can be any where between 12vac and 24vac does not really matter...as long as the input to the 7805 is less than 18vdc since once it leaves the 7805 it will be 5vdc

[@LyonsArcade]

That makes sense, thank you!

[@TheDannyGTV]

Where did you buy the for this machine? just bought a double sided clean sweep with the shallow left side and the Deep right side. I don't know much about the machines but for $150 I figured that's a good starting point for this Hobby.

[@LyonsArcade]

buy the what? I'm going to guess you mean the lightbulbs, you can get them at www.CompetitiveProducts.com . You need to take one of yours out and see what voltage is written on it.

[@danijelcar5184]

Good Job done 👍🏼😎

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Danijel!

[@stphinkle]

One chip is a counter and the other is a PROM.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you Stephen that makes sense, they'd need some code for the light sequence....

[@stphinkle]

Joe's Classic Video Games I suspect the light flash sequence is programmed into the PROM and the output of the prom is sent tot the Triacs to turn to the lights on and off in the various chase effect sequences. The counter chip I suspect is used to advance the address of the prom inputs to sequence the PROM outputs which actually creates the flashing. I suspect on the board either there is some kind of clock occilator or they use some sort of sine to square wave conversion on the 60Hz AC line to advance the counter. .

[@TimberTheWolf]

I have the same claw Machine lol but when I click the claw button it freezes

[@wilder9777]

Awesome

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Wilder!

[@jstep4146]

I have the double clean sweep but mine does not have the moving infinity lights :( they just sit there not moving.

[@LyonsArcade]

The flasher board in the ceiling of the game has probably been modified, they have SCR's that burn up on them and somebody probably jumpered them instead of replacing them so they no longer flash.

[@Hero-3]

Amazing thank you

[@JamieVegas]

That one chip is a PROM. It must actually store the state of each group of bulbs and output them in a cycle in a precomputed pattern.

[@christianbraun9083]

Hi I have been looking around for a big choice crane light PCB board that makes 12 bulbs chase in the top marquee. do you have any spare boards you could sell? the board is the kind with four fuse banks on it. Do you know were I could find one? thank you.

[@LyonsArcade]

Unfortunately I don't have any extra boards, is it like this one or a different design? The only place I ever see stuff like that pop up is on ebay.

[@christianbraun9083]

what pin on the triac did you solder to? what pin on the ac did you solder the triac output to? did you only to it to one triac or all four triacs?

[@LyonsArcade]

I did it on all four, if you look at the bottom of the board you can see one pin goes out to the wires, and one pin comes in from one of the wires. You just connect those two pins, and don't connect the pin that connects back to the chips on the board.

[@JamieChapman-hd4mu]

What size light bulbs are those

[@operationrestore3308]

hey joe i got one where can get pcb repaired? thanks

[@LyonsArcade]

Unfortunately I don't know of anybody that repairs them, you will likely have to fix it yourself!

[@christianbraun9083]

​@@LyonsArcadethere is a guy in Massachusetts Dick Donlan who does arcade PCB repair out of his home Google search amusement technologies, he repaired the chaser boards that I jumped using your method he repaired them back to chase but not flash too much damage to the flashing ic chip pins, I had one of the chaser boards broke down by a manufacturing company in China and I have a schematic for this mysterious marquee light board would you be interested in a copy of the light board schematic for reference? let me know

[@christianbraun9083]

@operationrestore3308 Google search amusement technologies out of Massachusetts the guy does good quality PCB repair and bench testing out of his home for very reasonable prices with excellent communication throughout the repair. I hope this helps.

[@tomypower4898]

cool!

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you Tomy Power!

[@tomypower4898]

@@LyonsArcade you're welcome!

[@JamieChapman-hd4mu]

What kind of base are those

[@NathanielStauber]

I think I watch too much of Big Clive; I half expected you to use a USB phone charger power supply in place of the transformer, diodes, 7805, and capacitor.

[@LyonsArcade]

That may be possible :)

[@ryanwolf7174]

Fluorescent lights are not working hehe