Expose to the Wrong

[@Destructor2007]

Maarten is the best photo friend I never knew I needed in my life. Thanks, Mr. Heilbron! A true gentleman and a class production.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

It was a pleasure to read your kind words, thanks very much.

[@TheShakeBoss]

I’m an amateur photographer. I’ve read about “exposing to the right” several times, and I can say, very proudly, that I came to your same conclusions just from experience. Great video, as usual.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Good work, thanks for the real-life confirmation. And for your kind words.

[@patrickfitzgerald2861]

LMAO! "Random, generic advice from strangers . . ." Maarten, you consistently nail that bone dry humor that I so thoroughly enjoy. Thanks! 😂

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always nice to know my regular viewers share my sense of humour. Thanks for commenting.

[@99jdave99]

As a musician, it's Interesting to hear the audio analogy. I never really consciously thought about how similar light exposure would be to audio levels. Interesting stuff, and good video!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad that diversion made it clearer for you, thanks for commenting.

[@photonomist6345]

Just brought to mind the issue of poor signal to noise ratio in recordings made at too low a level, and also the advice to record sound at the highest possible level which avoids clipping, which is analagous to ETTR in photography. But as we conclude from your interesting video ‐ don't go too close to the limit! Thank you for your thoughts. Philip

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@photonomist6345 Glad to be of assistance, thanks for the kind words.

[@jimroby2k]

Calm, clear and informative, maybe most informative presenter here.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I appreciate that! Thanks for taking the time to post your kind words.

[@CallMeChato]

I never understood expose to the right except for that time I accidentally wandered into a leather bar. But, personally, I prefer under exposing a stop or two in video. No recovering that sheen on my forehead. Perfectly exposed video.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Ah, as Frankie Howerd used to say as he pranced onto the stage "Ewww - Nothing in its right place tonight". Yes, I also find that colours are slightly improved with a slight underexposure. ETTR is, of course, a stills technique.

[@gregpantelides1355]

Thank you so much for your kind generosity in sharing your wisdom.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

It's really my pleasure, thanks for your kind words.

[@cornerbodega6607]

Best ETTR discussion on the net! Keep it rolling!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, it's nice to know that some viewers agree.

[@drewdavis1962]

Maarten, you have the best photography videos. Thanks for your devotion to this art.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Wow, thank you! A pleasure to read your kind words.

[@sukjai_mainoi]

Thank you for another great teaching. Comparing to clipping in audio make it so clear.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You are welcome! Always nice to hear that an analogy makes the concept clearer.

[@mattslaboratory5996]

I generally expose a tad to the Left -- 1/3 stop under, to try to keep highlights decent. And speaking of analogies, hue is like pitch.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Good technique, I find that helps make colours just a little richer. Thanks, I'm sure there are more audio/photo analogues.

[@duaneparker5070]

mattslaboratory Yep, me too.

[@HR-wd6cw]

ETTR has it's uses, and yes, it's not meant to be used for every photograph or camera. The key is to understand your camrea (I believe it used to be for Canon's you would expose to the left, whereas with Nikons, to the right to protect highlight details). Second, I see that some people talk about blowing the highlights. Since the histogram is based on the JPEG, the RAW is a bit more foregiving (so even if you do clip slightly (although no clipping is preferred - turn on clipping/highlight warning) but I still observe the histogram and the highlight warning before moving onto the next shot, and usually I'll do two ETTRs, one that's pretty close to the right, and one that's toned back a bit, maybe 1/3 of a stop, just to be safe (although I have had more luck with ETTR as some cameras will tend to underexpose images even though the light-meters regardless of mode, may indicate a good exposure... my Fuji did this, would always underexpose by 1/3 of a stop most of the time; over exposing slightly helped result in a better quality image). Of course if you're shooting in JPEG then ETTR isn't as practical because it is a processed image (you can adjust later, but you lose some of the information). The reason that ETTR is pushed and widely adopted is that it holds more highlight detail than a normal exposure, both in the highlights and shadow areas). And many go by the mindset of "you can always throw away data you don't need, but it's hard -- if not impossible -- to get back data you never had, like in the shadows and darks/blacks). So let's say if you did ETTR which resulted in a 2-stop over exposure, I have found that if I had taken a regular exposure (where the exposure meter reads 0 -- so "perfect" exposure) and then did ETTR, I had more flexibility with ETTR. Yes the shadows and blacks look more gray, and herpahs the highlights look overblown, but once I decreased the exposure a bit (by almost 2 stops) I felt the ETTR image retained better quality than the regular exposure. Again, though, ETTR is not feasible for everything and it should be used with a bit of caution. It may take a few shots to figure out where you are (even if you use a live-histogram on the EVF/LCD) and I'd say find where highlights tend to clip, and then back off another 1/3 of a stop to be safe, even though, like I said, the RAW is more foregiving and if the histogram shows a tiny bit of clipping (which is based on the JPEG) you may not have actaully clipped the highlights in the RAW, but just to be safe. The reason this is pushed a lot is that there is more image data stored on the right-half of the histogram, than there is on the left. I would suggest people read this article and decide for themselves: photographylife.com/exposing-to-the-right-explained

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Well, yes. However, my video was produced for those who might be confused or wondering if they should practice this technique. My thesis was that most modern cameras, and most novice photographers will not benefit. This is mostly aptly summarized in the second paragraph: "This is not for beginners ..." Many find the techniques of exposure to be needlessly complex and off-putting. I intended to provide a simple answer, with demonstration.

[@JEK]

This helps a lot. Can't wait to try this out. So glad I came across this while bing watching your videos.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always glad to know my videos are inspiring you to go out and take photos.

[@GhanaTableTennis]

Always refreshing and insightful listening to you.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks! A pleasure to read your kind words.

[@paulus0109]

Thnx for making me reconsider Maarten.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always happy to help.

[@jiggyb21]

I second that. I understand the why and I have seen for myself it indeed works, but as you say, at the cost what? It clearly helps when you are photographing a 12 stop dynamic scene. But how many people do that? As these cameras continue to get better at recovering shadow detail I can’t help but think this concept is already losing steam. The you for also making me reconsider. I will be doing my own tests with my own kind of images.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@jiggyb21 Good plan - best to understand how your camera reacts to these settings.

[@MrToonfish]

There is a hype on the internet telling you (telling me) to ETTR... expose to the right, I watched nearly 25 videos about this so I decided to give a try myself and I don't just like it at all, I think in some cases, doing ETTR using exposure compensation +1/3, +2/3 or one full stop is killing the highlights and I lost some important details, mostly in the sky and white clouds. I tried this "technique" on my Z6, D610, D750, FUJI X-PRO2 and X-T3, even on my Canon 5D MKIII and finally I decided NOT to use this recommandation anymore. I am doing mostly the opposite, I tend to under expose my pictures -0.3 or -0.7 stops, particularly with the D750, all the other cameras I have are ok. Thanks for the useful information and I am happy not to be alone ! ;-) Regards.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for the confirmation. It takes time to figure out that it's questionable advice.

[@Verdoux007]

Exposing to the right doesn't always mean adding more exposure. Sometimes the camera's autoexposure likes to overexpose the sky, so I have to decrease the exposure, but the histogram is still to the right.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@Verdoux007 Yes, for anyone who's actually experienced enough the term is effectively meaningless.

[@PierGiorgioZuccaro]

The ETTR technique must be applied in some situations, it is not always valid, but above all captain if you need to work the shot with a good margin of work in closing the lights ... having said that I realize that this technique has no values " fixed ", my personal experience, but always used / combined with a" zebra "detection function during the shot for clipping and" burning "the last useful details. For example with Sony A7r3, Sony A9 this technique is very usable without losing "zebra" details at 109+ on the scale to be applied and excellent results are obtained. But it should always be considered whether to look for the limit or act in post, they always talk about RAW shots.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@PierGiorgioZuccaro Thanks for adding your thoughts, appreciated.

[@fredlouw2312]

Thank you Maarten for this amazing tutorial lesson...

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad you liked it! I appreciate your kind words, thanks.

[@lucyabrao5236]

Thank you. I learned photography from an online instructor and now friend who taught expose to the left. Recently I have been doing watching a lot of KZbin videos and so many say ETTR.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad it was helpful! Expose to the right only if "right" has the meaning "correct". Thanks for commenting.

[@almostinfamous42]

I am sure that ETTR has its suitable application as all techniques do, but I haven't run into them. Thank you for making such clear and straightforward videos

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Oh - the "damning with faint praise" gambit. Thanks for adding your thoughts and your kind words.

[@scarborosasquatchstation1403]

Thanks Maarten for the important lesson on how to properly expose an image ! Scarboro

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to comment - always nice to hear from my friends.

[@jettysplash]

Thank you Maarten. Amazing video with valuable information I never found anywhere else. Liked and subscribed.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Awesome, thank you! Always nice to know my videos are appreciated.

[@jonbarnett3154]

Thanks Maarten, another well paced, informative piece. The ETTR vids have been on my mind. I loved the final advice, I will keep shooting until the battery runs out (memory card takes a bit longer).

[@MaartenHeilbron]

A pleasure to read your kind words, thanks. In my case, it's often the memory card. Should buy bigger cards.

[@Stone1108]

I mentioned this on a photography FB page once and it caused a bit of histogram hysteria ‘nope you must expose to the right especially for landscape ..’ . I take your stance on exposure and that’s what they didn’t like, maybe I didn’t explain as eloquently as you. Anyway, I’ve closed my FB account now, not for the reason above I might add! I’m with you on this topic.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Sometimes it takes a while for people to shed their old bad habits. I'm off FB too, also not for the reasons you mentioned.

[@tonygreenmike]

Thank you Maarten.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

My pleasure! Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@randall.chamberlain]

Indeed, I've been wondering about this for some time. Great topic and very well explained. You earned a sub!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, always nice to know that viewers appreciate my work enough to follow along.

[@Volk715]

Thanks a lot for the interesting content and the inspiring presentation style

[@MaartenHeilbron]

That's very kind, thanks for commenting.

[@photoswithali835]

Good tips. I'm still learning how to set the exposure and what buttons to use to do so on my camera. Sometimes I get it right, sometimes I get it wrong but with practice I am getting better! Thanks for sharing.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

That's great. Thanks for letting me be part of your learning journey. I appreciate your kind words. If I may - don't be intimidated by the controls - the camera is prepared to do a lot of stuff for you with auto settings - take advantage of those.

[@tasmaniantintype6526]

Hi Maarten. I think you have glossed over the key reason for ETTR. By pushing the luminosity histogram to the brighter end of the range you are encoding a larger number of dark tones by virtue of how binary image encoding works. The number of digital steps that can be used to represent what is actually a continuous (analogue) gradation of tones is higher at the brighter, right hand end of the tonal scale than at the darker end. As a consequence of ETTR, the image file has a larger number of tones with which to work when manipulating the file in post processing. This theoretically gives you more flexibility in adjusting tonality before things like posterisation start to mar the image. This phenomenon is why videographers us log profiles routinely. Log profiles transpose darker tonal values to the right side of the luminosity scale although they do this in a non linear way rather than the linear process used when you ETTR. And they also shift the brighter tones to the left to capture greater dynamic range. It actually makes a difference in many high dynamic range scenes. A detailed explanation of how this works albeit in the contect of logarithmic video encoding can be found here www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/video/tips-and-solutions/understanding-log-format-recording. Cheers.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I don't believe I did gloss over this, as I mentioned that as the rationale for using this technique at the beginning of the video. I also demonstrated that, unless the difference is dramatic, there was no difference in the quality of shadow areas using modern sensors. I think you're mistaken about Log for video - exposing Log recordings to the right will lead to disaster. It is important to keep the log recording centred on the histogram and away from 100% on the waveform, otherwise it will not be possible to recover either the shadow or highlight tones, particularly if you're using LUTs to decompress. The B&H article you provided does not address the issue of how to properly expose when shooting Log, but I can attest to the effect with actual examples. Here's how I explain it, using Nikon's N-Log: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nou9nZZufMZ5mMk

[@magicfields101]

you can go believe in church

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@magicfields101 Why so rude?

[@magicfields101]

ist a simple Statement. you iterpretin it as rude but ist about knowing not believing.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@magicfields101 If you'd take the time to fully express your thoughts we would be able to better understand your intentions.

[@kjellhmyhre2374]

This is really very interesting - and brilliantly explained!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad you think so! Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@georgecharpentier6043]

Very informative as always. I think that what most “expose to the right” advocates forget to mention is that there are times when it won’t give you more useful information. It is those times that will require post-processing, and you could have had just as good result straight out of the camera.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Exactly the point I was trying to make, thanks for the executive summary.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

I think the issue is that a lot of people advocate for it without understanding what they're trying to solve. The point of it is that you shouldn't have a lot of empty space at the right-hand side of the histogram unless you need to use the image directly out of the camera. So, having images like the ones in the video where there's a clear end to the histogram data that's nowhere near the right edge would be wrong. You'd want to up the exposure to get the edge as close to the right as practical, and then darken the image in the computer for use. You definitely can take it a step further and allow a few of the highlights to be blown, but due to modern technology that's not as useful as it was decades ago when I got my first dSLR. A modern dslr has probably 12 or even 14 bits worth of levels available for recording colors in each channel, there's little point in allowing highlights to be blown in situations like that. Properly applied, exposing to the right shouldn't result in lost detail in the highlights or those compressed clouds. If anything, you should have better detail in the clouds as there'd be more possible values to use to record their subtleties.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@SmallSpoonBrigade WHile I agree that on recent model cameras there's some ability to recover highlights from a RAW file, the final image often has little benefit from a ETTR technique.

[@jasonbannan4024]

Sir, I always learn something from you. Thank you.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks very kind, thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@mauistevebear]

Absolutely Brilliant!! the whimsical smile has me subscribed. I slightly shoot to the right, knowing my camera's histogram is based on the JPG output so when I bring my RAW file into LR, the histogram is the RAW output, thus more latitude with highlights and shadows adjustments.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, I appreciate whimsical, your kind words and your subscription. I meant to debunk the term for photographers who might consider it sage advice - clearly, your thinking is beyond this glib catchphrase.

[@JHuffPhoto]

I tried the whole ETTR thing several years ago. And while it sounds good in theory and the math checks out I came to the same conclusion as you. No matter how hard I tried I could see no meaningful difference and this was with a camera from 2008. My preferred strategy mostly is to try to get the exposure I want in camera and then make small adjustments. Sometimes I will expose for the highlights and then adjust the shadows. I highly recommend the book “Understanding Exposure” by Bryan Peterson to anyone who would like to learn more about exposure and how it relates to their photography.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for sharing your experience and tips, appreciated.

[@jcmc3445]

Although this is a topic that I've seen many times, this is a solid explanation Marteen. Nice to see these kind of videos.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad you liked it! And thanks for stopping by to say so, appreciated.

[@darrinlalla9008]

So well balanced. Thank you for this.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You're so welcome! Thanks for your kind words.

[@IanKnight40]

Spot on Maarten, I've always found that exposing to the right usually flattens the colour depth somehow, leaving the colour palette lacking contrast and integrity that cannot be got back by editing the raw file. I do agree about getting a correctly exposed jpeg if possible as a lot of the time this is more thank good enough and usually better than I could do editing a raw file. This applies to both my fujifilm xt2 and Ricoh grii cameras and isnt brand specific as it has applied to past cameras that I have owned such as Lumix, Nikon and Olympus. Thanks for a really good video. Cheers Ian.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, it was a pleasure to read your kind words - and I completely agree with your approach.

[@bloneric]

Thanks Maarten for your valuable insights.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always my pleasure - and also a pleasure to read your kind words.

[@bromptonspotter]

Hi Maarten, just found your channel and although I am principally a video rather than a stills shooter, I found this so clear and helpful that I instantly subscribed. Looking forward to enjoying more of your videos here!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, always nice to hear I have a new fan. Thanks for subscribing.

[@udinbata]

Good lesson..

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks! 😃

[@xaviernieblaogorman236]

The information on this video is correct... for a camera with ISO invariance (like the Nikon you are using with a Sony sensor). It's not the same if the camera has a different sensor technology. Historically (as this may change) Canon cameras benefit a lot from ETTR shooting as long as you don't clip the highlights. With a scene that does not demand all the dynamic range of the sensor (think a winter and snow scene), you will get much more adjustment latitude (cleaner final image) if the histogram is more to the right, even if the picture looks "too bright" out of the camera. For ISO invariant cameras (Nikon, Sony, Fuji...), it's the same to brighten the image in the RAW development than increasing the ISO in the camera, so it makes sense to underexpose a little to protect the highlights.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

ISO invariance (which is now fairly standard on most cameras) does make it even more unnecessary, the point I'm trying to make is that the small improvement one might observe from an extra stop in shadows isn't worth the potential offsetting negative effect. While I appreciate that a knowledgeable photographer understands how to properly expose an image - which sometimes includes a histogram that's shifted to the right, this is information that can easily lead novices to unwanted results.

[@marekq6756]

I normally start with overexposure + 1.3 EV (set in custom settings). In the viewfinder I have overexposed pixels converted to intense orange and underexposed converted to intense blue. So it is easy to avoid overexposure - just rotate the dial to the left until almost all orange dissapears and that's it. This technique significanlty reduces noise especially when using smaller sensors and when printing very large. Of course exposure time or aperture should be changed - not ISO. For small prints or internet: just forget it.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for sharing your exposure details.

[@rickster434]

Hey Maarten, I generally only use ETTR with astrophotography when under heavy light polution. I have noticed marked reduction in noise using this method and can recover all the data as long as it isn't clipped. Can you touch on why I should not use ETTR for this style of photography and what other methods you would suggest? Obviously I could go to a darker area, but let's leave that as out of scope for this discussion as I am looking for an alternative to ETTR in my current bortle 6 location. (The reason I'm looking for an alternative is that ETTR images take far longer to post process than normally exposed images.) Please note that I still want the highest reduction of noise possible. My current equipment is a D750, 35mm f1.4 prime, star tracker and intervalometer. Current exposure settings are iso 6400, f2, 15s. I usually stack 400 lights, 150 darks, 100 flats, 100 dark flats, 100 bias. (About 2.75 hours of photography in one night starting at 11pm.) Thank you Ricky

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I have no reason to discourage you from using a technique that works. My comments are general in nature, and meant for novices.

[@gilberthenri9441]

Interesting video. Thank you for your time and work.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad to hear you think so, thanks for commenting.

[@forkintherode8236]

Excellent video Maarten I always gain watching your work.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Many thanks! So nice to hear from an appreciative viewer.

[@WisdomOfInsecurity]

I experienced that on cameras that become quiet noisy at higher isos, it is generally better to overexpose a little bit because in post processing you don't have to increase the exposure which would introduce much uglier noise. So e.g. under iso 1600 i underexpose a little bit so that all highlights are conserved, on higher isos i overexpose a little bit because it reduces the signal to noise ratio in post processing for me

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for sharing your tips.

[@markwith140]

I was always told to expose for the highlights, ie in a high contrast scene with bright sky and comparatively darker landscape, then make the sky exposure more accurate. The theory is that it is much easier to recover shadows than blown out highlights. Generally in a fairly low contrast scene I don't suppose it really matters if I expose to the right or left (within reason) as cameras these days have enough dynamic range to recover highlights and shadows. It is in high contrast scenes is where more consideration of where to expose needs to be given. I would be interested in your thoughts on this.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, that's correct, I thought that's what I explained and demonstrated in the video. For high (higher) contrast scenes, you could use the camera's dynamic range and/or HDR settings.

[@markwith140]

@@MaartenHeilbron You did explain that, just checking my understanding, we are aligned :).

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@markwith140 Thanks for confirming our alignment. Stay safe.

[@NathamMovies]

Very cool video thanks. :) Do you also have an input on ETTR and video recording when you can't shoot raw files? I mean dosen't it gives you more advantage while shooting video?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for your kind words. With most consumer cameras that record video, it's really best to get the exposure and colour set correctly in camera, as making adjustments in editing can be much more difficult than with stills. For video, expose correctly, not rightly.

[@dpie4859]

You make such lovely videos. Very educational and well put together.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thank you very much! How kind of you to comment.

[@tkphotosz]

Greetings,. Marten. I am writing on a different subject matter since you made a comparison with audio in the video. I am recording worship sessions for our church with my X-T3 and just last week on the X-T4. I used Rode wireless mic to record the audio. I have problems balancing the vocal with the music accompaniment that comprises a guitar and keyboard. How can I improve the overall audio quality especially the musical instruments? I used Premiere Pro's Multichannel Compressor currently. Do you have any videos on my subject matter? Much appreciated your time and energy to share your experience with us.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You should try using an external mixer.

[@CosminRotaru]

I never thought of ettr when the exposure range fits the histogram. I though you'd only ettr when you need to choose between clipping the highlights or the darks. Given this choice i always choose to not clip the highlights - ettr (provided that i don't have something critical in the darks, that i really want to capture).

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, that's a good practice. Thanks for adding this note.

[@RichardBO9]

Great Video. On my D850, I have the bottom front button mapped to the highlight meter mode. In sunny16 conditions, I will hold that down and adjust the meter to 0-1/3 over. When I let go of the button the meter will read like its under exposed, but the photos come out nearly perfect every time. I LOVE your meter mantra, "you're not a slave to the meter". 🤠

[@MaartenHeilbron]

What a great suggestion, thanks! Also appreciate your kind words.

[@4CardsMan]

In the Z6, you can choose TIFF as your output format, which has a wider range than a JPEG. This allows you to use the camera's presets and still have more latitude in post. The Z6II does not have this option. This avoids the major work increase involved with RAW images.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not sure that makes sense - I think if you want to or need to make changes to your images afterwards, the RAW format provides much more potential for manipulation.

[@4CardsMan]

@@MaartenHeilbron 4 Sure. However, unless you do a lot of extra work, you can't apply the manufacturer's profiles in post. My objective is to spend as little time in post production that will deliver the desired results. I want to begin with an image that is approximately right. If the image requires a lot of manipulation to bring it into spec, a gross error was made at acquisition. As an experienced photographer, it's a lot easier for me to get exposure right in camera than it is to try to salvage a problematic image. I realize that this goes against the CW. I only wish that Nikon would provide a baked video image with a wider dynamic range, like a TIFF, so that I don't have to shoot with an external recorder.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@4CardsMan Understood. Always nice to hear from someone who has a solid workflow.

[@Krejstrup]

Thank you Maarten. You have a good way of explaining things. Just a few days ago I was thinking of just this topic. But since I am an electronics engineer, my eqvivalent comparison with the sound is the transistor. If you push the volume/gain you will get clippings that you cannot recover later. Whereas the low volume/gain you could adjust it later, with only (some?) noice as a defect. Just like you said with distorsion! So I was a bit supprised that just saw your video about this topic. I hope that you are all well - take care and stay safe!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks - yes, it is the effect of any digital amplifier and applies to both sound and images. Digital signal paths tend to accumulate less noise than analog ones. Thanks for your kind thoughts and wishes - same to you. Stay safe!

[@oo0RECON0oo]

Excellent video as usual. I have a question. How do you know if you shoot your exposures according to what you see in the viewfinder or monitor according to what you like, that when you get back home the picture is not under or over exposed? Because they say that that’s what the histogram is for. I set my exposure according to the histogram at 3/4 on a snowy day, then turned on my flash and took the shot. The background came out dark. I’m not sure why. Maybe you could tell me why? And also how to make sure that the monitor or if you find her gives you the exposure that you like when you look at them

[@MaartenHeilbron]

On mirrorless cameras, what you see in the viewfinder before you take the picture should correspond to the image recorded. You could review them in the camera to make sure. The histogram is a tool to assist you with exposure, if you use it correctly. I don't understand "set ... the histogram at 3/4". However, it sounds as if the flash is either not needed or set incorrectly if those are the results.

[@pandoraefretum]

Yes, like audio, a hot signal, but not too hot !! ... we could say a reasonably hot signal.... thanks for the excelllent video

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Like Goldilocks - just hot enough.

[@Blue_Newt_01]

I agree. I’ve tried using this theory of ETTR numerous times but it never really worked for me since I shoot a lot of animal portraits and over exposed highlights on fur can ruin the image. But the highlight weighted metering feature usually under exposes too much too. It pays to get to know how your camera handles different lighting situations and adjust accordingly. Thanks for another informative video!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, always best to learn your camera and its specifics. Thanks for your kind words.

[@jimmumby40]

The photographers who 'expose to the right' that i have seen, are in Aperture Priority mode generally for contrasting landscapes, and do so to collect additional images with maximum details in the highlights that may be missing in images where the camera believes it to be a correct exposure (less so to bring out any detail that may be missing in the darker areas) They then blend photos in post. I guess its a failsafe of sorts, and lots of editing, so why not use bracketing? Whenever i shoot in Manual mode and have auto ISO switched on (which i generally do) exposure compensation always attacks ISO first, meaning that you have to change aperture or shutter speed to bring ISO into a less noisier range, which might not be to your liking with DOF/motion.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Ah, well, if one is using exposure bracketing, there's no need to think about ETTR at all is there?

[@VariTimo]

I wish all still cameras had waveform monitors.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

As some wise animator once said, "Ain't dat de troot".

[@donaldklopper]

Thanks Maarten. I appreciate the effort that you've put into this video. Anyone who watches this will have some homework to do, even if they've done it before.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for that! Always nice to read that my videos are appreciated.

[@forsterl.stewart414]

Using the RGB Histogram you can get the best exposure. If you clip a color channel you will see it. Because sometimes the luminous histogram shows a proper exposure but colors can be clipped. If color is clipped on the right close down. If color is clipped on left you must open. Get it right in camera with RAW and adjust nothing like white balance in post. In post your adding or subtracting nothing but the gain. Exposing to the right properly executed is the only way to go.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

There are very few cameras that offer an RGB histogram while shooting.

[@adychandra2031]

Hi Maarten, another excellent tutorial. Must a well exposed picture have a full histogram from left to right? Or, is it well exposed so long it is in the centre of the histogram?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Well, if you’re being technical, yes, it should be centred, with a wide a range as possible. However, the actual image and your creative intent should always take precedence over any meter.

[@SJ-gj7mx]

Thank you very much for this very helpful and amazing video. So the exposure to the right or left whether it is done manually or by the camera auto bracketing is primarily through shutter speed right?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Use any of the exposure settings you like. There's always a tradeoff. In auto, try using the exposure compensation.

[@sutv6754]

Very well and appreciated.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

So nice of you, thanks!!

[@lecolintube]

Thanks Maarten, loved the way you presented this.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad you enjoyed it, always nice to read kind words from my viewers.

[@oo0RECON0oo]

Hey Maarten, just a thought here about these tests and their end results. What I did for my Nikon Z6 is this, I calibrated my Sekonic light meter using the tone card similar to yours to know how my Z6 sees light, so it can give me the proper incident reading, then I compared that to what the Z6 told me was correct for the exact same shot reflective, then I noted the difference in stops of light, which was one stop of light for my camera, and then I went into the Z6 menu to fine tune my exposure by 1 stop. So now when I point my camera, I get the proper incident reading in camera. Maybe if you tried this in your camera the whites would not be blown out in the experiment??? Your thoughts?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

What an interesting experiment. Thanks for sharing these notes.

[@robertvarner9519]

Excellent analysis.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, always nice to see that my viewers appreciate my work.

[@Enrique-the-photographer]

Excellent tutorial as always. Thank you.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad you liked it! And glad you took the time to comment.

[@patrick.991]

In landscape photography I always try to find a mix between not-to-bright-sky and not-to-dark-rest :) It's easy to correct a RAW in lightroom by bringing down the highlights and increasing the shadows.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Good approach, but hopefully I've shown you that you're better to under-expose as it's easier (within range anyway) to increase shadows than to save a blown out highlight.

[@patrick.991]

@@MaartenHeilbron yes, you did :) not sure if my comment was understandable. Often underexpose a bit to avoid blown out highlights and "save" the sky. Shadows are easy to increase in lightroom

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@patrick.991 Right you are.

[@christopherbgriffith]

I greatly appreciate this video. After learning of the ETTR approach, when I applied it in practice I found that the images produced were almost always over-exposed for my purposes and tastes. I like rich shadows and good contrast in images more than I care about "proper exposure". For that reason I don't really think about it unless I'm in an HDR scenario, where I'm having to choose what to preserve because the camera simply can't get everything. My general rule is "keep the bulk of the histogram away from both extremes unless it's what I'm going for. Also, FWIW, I find my XT3 tends to expose things a little "hot" for my personal tastes, so unless I'm in full manual I usually have exposure compensation bumped down 1/3.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I agree, and not just about rich shadows - I find even skies have a better hue when slightly under- exposed. I agree with you about the X-T3, I think the X-trans sensor can be a little too contrasty. I usually turn the highlight down and shadow up.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

I think most of the issue with the rule is that people get it wrong. The point of it is that you shouldn't have a bunch of flat space on the right-hand side with no pixels being recorded there, you should expose towards the right to keep that as small as possible and then darken it up during conversion later if that's too bright for you. That should result in the most possible detail at any level of brightness without harming the highlights. If you've got a spike at the right and a bunch of empty space in the middle, you're basically stuck either accepting it, or HDR with bracketed shots. Obviously, if for any reason you need to have the images directly out of the camera, then the rule should just be junked almost entirely as it's not relevant.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@SmallSpoonBrigade Thanks for sharing this insight.

[@keithdennis5085]

Dear Maarten, Another wonderfully explained video. I agree with what you're saying especially since you can shoot a jpeg and a RAW image at the same time. Moreover, testing each camera with a chip chart, like the one you use, is really important to gain confidence in the decision one winds up making. 'Hope you are still doing well!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Nice to see your comments, thanks! We are still well, thankfully - and thanks for your wishes. Same to you - stay safe.

[@daxvolfan]

In my very limited experience (less than 2 years) I've found I lose ability to "repair" over exposed highlights much more than under exposed shadows. I'm constantly surprised when I have an under exposed image in post that I can recover info in the shadows. Cameras these days have amazing dynamic range. Even the less than top of the line models, like my X-T100. As always, enjoyed the video Maarten.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for your kind words, always appreciated. And nice to hear that you've put in the trial and error to discover how to best expose your images.

[@usernamehandle]

Hey Maarten, just thought I’d let you know that in order to get the chapters to show on the video itself, you just need to add 0:00 at the top of your list! Call it “Intro” or something

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Good tip, thanks!

[@youareawesome8]

Very informative video. Thank you. But I think most of the youtube review advise about ETTR are use for video especially shooting in Log mode. Then you bring it to the software and turn the shadow area back down to get more details and less noise. The problem is they don't mention in the video that this is only good if you are recording log video.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

NO! Exposing Log video to the right can lead to disaster. The only safe way to expose Log is with a waveform, and even then, keep it under 90. The higher ISOs of Log settings will always raise darker areas, you don't need to increase exposure to do that.

[@danev1969]

The gamma curve when shooting in RAW does provide a slight advantage when shooting to the right. But, never so much that you clip the highlights, so the direction to the right is subtle. That said, exposing to the right gives up dynamic range (potentially). The only time I actually do this is when an HDR (3-shot+) is not practical and I need to get detail in the shadows that I otherwise would not be able to achieve. Bottom line, what you refer to as the "correct" exposure is almost always the best choice. Nice presentation Maarten.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for your kind words, and the additional thoughts about your technique.

[@sallybillman3593]

In one of your videos I heard you mention Leophoto, which I have been researching on their tripods and heads. They have lots of tripod heads. In terms of the ball size, in watching videos, the size 40 seems to be the best. They have a 4-way pan/tilt head, leveling base, video head, panoramic head, another head for architectural images. I have contacted B&H, but they did not help and are not that familiar with Leophoto. I noticed you had a video head on one video. Do you use a leveling base for either a pan/tilt head or video head? Do you know of a head that can be used for panoramic/video/still? I am thinking a leveling base with a smooth pan/tilt (4 way) could do. What are your thoughts?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I have never, ever mentioned Leophoto, and know nothing about the company or its products.

[@garymanning4578]

So clear thank you

[@MaartenHeilbron]

That's very kind of you, thanks for commenting.

[@TobermoryCat]

Outstanding. Subscribed. Thanks.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

So glad to hear you enjoyed my video, thanks for commenting and subscribing.

[@anujasharma9677]

Thanks Maarten, great tutorial!.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I appreciate your kind words, always nice to know my videos are appreciated.

[@anujasharma9677]

@@MaartenHeilbron Have a great day, Maarten.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@anujasharma9677 Thanks, I'll do my best.

[@PhotoSnippet]

Would the results vary depending on the ISO Invariance of your sensor?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

The examples are with an ISO invariant sensor. Yes, an older sensor that is not may not produce the same results, although the effect of raising the stop or so required to expose to the right will not have much noise impact.

[@terrynewmanphotography]

Very informative video Maarten, thank you. Perhaps we should all just ETTM (middle) where possible?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, absolutely. as another viewer said, "expose to the right exposure".

[@SuperZardo]

What about ETTR in relation to dual-native ISO? ChatGPT claims: "Dual Native ISO: A sensor with dual native ISO has two separate analog amplification paths. Each path is optimized for a different ISO level. For example, a sensor might have one native ISO at 400 and another at 3200. At each of these native ISOs, the sensor can achieve optimal dynamic range and noise performance. The signal is amplified in different ways depending on the chosen ISO setting, allowing for high-quality images at both low and high ISOs without the significant noise penalty typically associated with higher ISOs." So is there an advantage if the scene is slighter too dark for using the lower-native ISO but will be overexposed when using the higher native ISO and therefore ETTR is used with the higher native ISO setting whilst limiting the light further by increasing the shutter speed, closing the aperture or using an ND filter?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You are overthinking this, placing too much confidence in AI and falling into a technology trap. Much of what you repeat here is simply marketing techno babble. I recommend that you release your mind from these concerns and fixations. Tools like the histogram and other measurements are simply an aid or a guide and should not be used as gospel. I recommend that you use the appropriate exposure (and other settings) to achieve your artistic intent, creating an image that tells the story or the mood you intend to express.

[@gerardferry3958]

i find the canon control ring set to exposure compensation an easy way to saturate the sensor, or the dial on the sony

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I see.

[@MarceloGori]

Thanks always for all this great information Maarten!!!!! Always great to watch your videos!!!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

It was a pleasure to read your kind words, thanks for commenting.

[@adriananto5499]

using digital cameras you have more latitude underexposing images and pulling back the shadows. using film you can overexpose a few stops without losing too much detail. although overexposing on digital can get you a better look in particular scenarios, and saves you from too much post-processing

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for taking the time to add your thoughts.

[@duringthemeanwhilst]

thanks Maarten, very interesting. I've always tended to underexpose my digital images and then lift the shadows in post to protect highlights.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Good plan, and thanks for your kind words.

[@YourStoryStudios]

I like the ISO/volume analogy!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks - that's what it is, you are increasing the amplification of the signal from the sensor.

[@capt1089]

Well done as always Maarten! Thank you for your insight and your ability to teach a hobbyist, like myself, in a very straightforward and entertaining way!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, a real pleasure to read your kind words.

[@Leptospirosi]

Like on Audio, the important thing is to capture the maximum latitude of the signal, filling the Istogram from right to left. The weaknesses of your sensor also have to be factored: a Nikon D750 will struggle a lot recovering highlights and will be more comfortable pushing the shadow, while a m43 sensor will much more eagerly give you back detail in bright area then in the dark ones. Truly amazing sensors, like on Alexa cameras would probably benefit from a perfectly exposed image because of the huge dynamic range that it enjoys

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks. And like audio, it's better to slightly under-record a digital signal than to risk the artifacts of going over the peak levels into distortion. And, yes, of course, but I'm pretty sure my audience doesn't include many Alexa owners.

[@PaulAmicucci]

Big fan here. I have blown highlights on more than one occasion, thanks for the informative video. I will expose to the wrong for here on out.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

hehe, thanks for the kind words and the chuckle. Always nice to hear from an appreciative viewer.

[@DUCzillaMonster]

just followed a photo cursus, and he told me better over expose a little , instead of under exposing a little, because to dark has to be ripped apart to recover detail but that all will be noise. what are your toughts about that?!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Out of date. Don't intentionally over or under expose. Expose to the Correct.

[@gregfaris6959]

Finally!! A sensible soul to debunk the overplayed “ETTR” mythology. In digital photography (unlike film photography) the overexposed range is where the greatest danger lies in destroying the detail in your images. By definition, anything exposed beyond 0dBFS (full-scale) has NO more capacity to record anything, and is by definition unrecoverable, yes even shooting raw. To continue the audio analogy, this is what we call "clipping" and the digital medium's ability to record any level above this abruptly falls to zero at full-scale. This is in contrast to the response of analog film, which compresses gently at both ends of the dynamic range, in what we describe as the log d/e curve. ETTR might be a working method that works for certain people, under certain circumstances, shooting certain types of photography, but as a general rule it will not be helpful for any given photographer. It is better to have some noise in shadows than to have blown-out highlights that cannot be recovered.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

How right you are. Thanks for adding more ammo to my statements.

[@arcanum70]

Another great one. I've had this debate a few times with others.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, it can be dependent on philosophy and equipment.

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

I think this is one of those ideas that was more important decades ago when you only had either 8 or 10 bits worth of information to work with depending upon whether you were using JPG/TIFF or raw. (I don't think any cameras that supported TIFF files used more bits) With up to 14 bits to work with on some cameras, it makes sense to not expose as closely to the right as you risk blowing highlights or entire areas that you might care about, without gaining much in the shadows. That being said, these are relatively easy photos to take and the shadows aren't that dark and there's not that much detail to be had. If you had something more challenging, it might make a difference, especially if you've got people that are being backlit and for some reason you can't use a flash or have them stand with the light in a more convenient position relative to them.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You may be right, in 2022 cameras are less likely to show defects in low light areas. And that's partly the point I was making. Unless you intend to do a lot of post-processing, it's always better to expose to the correct than to expose to the right. Thanks for your interesting comments, you make good points.

[@PhotoGearFun]

Your videos are always so well thought out, well produced, and full of great info. Although I think I may know the subject I will watch every minute of your videos and I always pick up a nuget or two. Thanks. Cheers.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Wow, thank you! I appreciate the kind words.

[@Mr09260]

Very interesting Video Maarten

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks. I'm hoping that's a compliment.

[@xmlthegreat]

As anyone with a bit of experience with digital cameras will tell you, digital sensors are better at storing shadow data(in not exactly sure of the reason), and thus it is better to expose for the highlights than the shadows as the shadows are easier to recover in post later. ETTR is outdated unless you shoot in certain log formats. Thank you for your work Mr. Heilbronn!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not sure I agree. If you approach the right while shooting in Log, you're sure to end up with a file that's difficult if not impossible to correct. Thanks for the kind words.

[@rickb6029]

I recall in electronics that double the signal voltage is 6dB, whereas double the power is 3dB. I suspect that in a digital camera sensor, double the photons into a pixel will produce double the voltage at that location, that might be 1 full stop. Is this correct?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I'm not an engineer, and certainly not well versed in the ways of sensors in 2020 - but I suspect that the amplification is added after the signal comes from the sensor. You cannot double the photons into a sensor with electronic means, only physical ones - by adjusting the size of the aperture or the duration of the shutter opening time.

[@rickb6029]

You say doubling the audio volume is 3dB, I'm simply saying it is 6dB to double the volume, just as it's 6dB to double the exposure, which is 1 stop. Yes the camera sensor cannot change the amount of light captured, there is an amplifier just as you say, and its gain is determined by the ISO, higher ISO is more gain. The noise in the sensor and the noise in the amplifier mean that the higher the ISO, the more noise is in the image due to lower signal to noise ratio. A jpeg has 8 bits of info per color R, G and B, a RAW image has more bits (14+) and the extra bits are in the areas of the image that are darkest allowing more recovery of darker the darker areas in post processing. Those areas have the worst signal to noise because there is so much less signal (ie light).

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@rickb6029 Interesting. Thanks for your note.

[@MichaelSchagen]

I also noticed that remark about 3dB. On videocamera's, a 6dB increase of gain corresponds to a brightness increase of one stop. So going from e.g. ISO 200 to ISO 400 corresponds to an increase of 6dB. I don't know that much about audio, but i've been told that 3dB corresponds to doubling the power/energy, 6dB to doubling the voltage/SPL and 10dB to an apparent, subjective doubling of volume.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@MichaelSchagen Neither of us are getting this right. It's a logarithmic expression, so it takes an order of magnitude (10x) to double.

[@samipso]

With my sony a6000 I used to adjust highlights and I feel that worked pretty well. I switched to Fujifilm and I found this doesnt work as well anymore. Although Im getting far superior IQ, highlights are unrecoverable...until I found ETTR. Smack down exposure, bring back shadows and voila. I dont even properly check for exposure so checking histograms every time seems a bit silly to me, but as a recovery technique I think its really neat. Maybe not so much for all the shots.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Wait - you couldn't recover highlights with a "properly" exposed image, but you could when you increased the exposure? I'm not following this.

[@samipso]

@@MaartenHeilbron Haha Im such an amateur lmao. Probably has less to do with the cameras and more to do with me. But learning these things is so much fun. I came here after seeing an ETTR video and still had my mind blown wide open. Thanks for the reply!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

We are all learning by trial and error. And not all mistakes are unusable.

[@MomentousGaming]

If you were shooting action, say sports, and you did not have a fast enough lens, could you under expose by a stop or two to maintain fast enough shutter speed, without high ISO problems, then up it in post?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

This may depend on your sensor, some sensors are insensitive small to changes in ISO. And all sensors are better in low light than they were 4-5 years ago.

[@davidellinsworth22]

The results of this will also depend on whether your camera is ISO-variant or -invariant

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@davidellinsworth22 Ah yes. To a certain extent anyway, but that's a topic for another day.

[@MangoLoverXCX]

Thank you for the information, Maarten. I'd like to ask if Exposure adjusting would also work for 4k MP4 video files like they do with RAW image files. And if not, is there a good way to make 4k video files as flexible as possible for colour/exposure adjusting when editing? Is MP4 even the best format for flexibility in post-production? Thank you again for the informative videos. Naz

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Video tends to be very compressed, so it's less easy to made adjustments - best to get exposure right in camera. Slightly under is best. I'd use a flat or neutral profile, possibly turning down the highlights/shadows and colour saturation. The file extension (like .MP4) is pretty irrelevant - pretty much all cameras use the H.264 compression (with the .MP4 or .MOV extension). Just use the highest possible data rate you can for best results. Thanks for the kind words.