Need your bushcraft machete razor sharp...fast? Here is our light and cheap field sharpening method!

[@jamespayne4759]

I'll try to send pictures on my iPhone, if I don't screw up but, it will take awhile to complete. At 76 and retired from teaching college for 25 years in welding technology, I don't work fast anymore. One reason I respect what you do is, you do the work by hand. That's how I worked, as a welder/inspector, in my early years, by hand. "Take care", Jim

[@MATTDEG]

There is nothing more frustrating or dangerous than using a blunt knife. Thanks for your detailed videos, I finally get it now....they have helped me tremendously!! Don't be concerned with comments about talking to much mate, as they say.....Patience is a virtue !!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Matthew Degiorgio Nice one Matt! I think that is one point I'm trying to put across. Once you start sharpening your tools such as a machete, you will never want to go back to blunt tools again. The other point is that if you are a beginner sharpener, machetes are about the easiest tool to learn on, even with small pocket stones and files as shown in the clip. Due to the extra length and speed, they are a very forgiving tool in that regard. Thanks for the kind words!

[@radamstruck]

Thank you for the very educational videos on machete sharpening. This is very helpful information for my machete sharpening!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I'm glad you found it helpful mate. All the best from OZ, Ben

[@snakethepeg7828]

Quick tip if your ever lost in the woods, just sit down and start sharpening your knife, someone will come and tell you your doing it wrong

[@billythekidd623]

i usually stick my ar in a stream to get the mud and dust out and it never fails someone just appears and tells me why it is bad for my rifle

[@Brousek1]

dude you dont talk alot your pretty direct and informative keep it up :)

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Cheers mate! I got a feeling most people film in the same style they like. If I have gone to YT for research, know I prefer a lot of information on a topic. Thanks for the kind words Brousek. All the best, Ben.

[@CharlesCarabott]

I just bought my first machette, the ontario 18inch. I think it needs some sharpening. I no nothing about machettes but seeing your video I'm learning. Thankyou

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Nice one Charles! I hope you found yourself a new favorite tool. Yep, if they are roughly sharpened from the factory, they do need a bit of work to tune them up. If you're interested in using hand files to re-profile the edge, Colhane has a good tutorial. Just search Colhane machete modification. Once you have it sharpened properly, they are fairly quick to tip up. All the best from OZ, Ben

[@CharlesCarabott]

@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia yes I'm very happy with it. Looks and feels very nice. And thanks for the tips

[@BonEchoGearReviews]

Great tutorials! I've been doin the same with old leather belts and broken sand belts. All my axes, machetes and knife get finished up with some leather belt stropping. Thanks for making these videos!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

How good is it to use properly sharpened tool! You can't beat a stropped edge in my opinion. Actually one of my new favourite tools in the workshop is a strop made from a strip of pine that I screwed to a post. That post has always frustrated me as its in a bad spot in front of the bench. Now that it holds the strop, I'm a lot happier about it. It is just an offcut of pine about 600mm long and 20 by 20. It is much more convenient to have a long strop there rather than on a bench where dust and grit can fall on it. Thanks for the comment and complement mate. It is very much appreciated. All the best, Ben

[@annapeterson5897]

Here's something we just tried successfully. We use stones to keep our machetes very sharp. Today, we took a 4" x 9" piece of 3M 1000 wet/dry sand paper and trimmed the width to fit a 3" wide by 12" piece of wood. We then taped the bottom and top. We used this to finish the edge and it came out incredibly sharp right to the very tip. Just maintain the angle. My husband has suggested we do a video on how we maintain our Tramontina machetes. They receive daily use. We also made a new strop today. Our previous one was a leather belt with the buckle supported by two nails in the wall. Used it like a barber's razor strop. We sacrificed the leather belt and cut two exact 12" lengths from it and Gorilla glued them on a piece of 2"x 4" wood tightly side by side. Once dried, we applied the Turtle Wax heavy polishing compound and tried it out. Works great! We improvise, adapt and overcome situations that need solutions. My husband has actually been enjoying this channel especially since he as well depends on his machete daily. Thanks, Ben!!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'Day Anna and thank you for sharing your sharpening method! First up, I think doing a KZbin clip sharing how you maintain your machetes is a fantastic idea. There is not a whole lot of information on the net from users who use machetes regularly and tried & tested methods are even harder to find. I like that line about improvising, adapt and overcome situations and I feel this is something that is sorely missing in our time. You will still see it out in the bush away from cities but I have found it is not common anymore. Sharing what has worked for you is important. One easy tip to share is the turtle wax cutting compound (its available everywhere). I think I might test out that brand as well when I get a chance. Thanks for the tip! Kind regards, Ben

[@m.jenkins8503]

I think your videos are an entertaining and educational. USA here

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Champion! Thanks for the comment mate. To be honest, I was aiming for both those two points. All the best mate, Ben

[@worddunlap]

Hands down one of the best instructional series on YT. I storp with different kinds of paper. It has various 'grits' and can make all the difference in the world. I have diamond stones of various grits, ozark stones, commercial sapphire stones and the stropping on paper beats them all for maintaining an edge.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+worddunlap Thanks for the big complement mate! I have been sharpening for a long while now and I often get reminded on how frustrating it can be when you're just starting out. Pro's can make it out to be much more complicated and expensive than it actually is.... And I really like to help a fellow camper out! I think we are on the same page. I have a lot of nice sharpening gear but hands down it's the cheapest step (stropping with a compound)that I find the most important. Thanks for the kind words mate! All the best, Ben

[@cactuswren9771]

Cactus Wren here. Greetings from the Mojave Desert. I'm sharpening Old Hickory 14" blades to be used as machetes with custom handles. Looks like this method will work well on those.Thx so much for the info. Loved hearing your Ozzie birds in the background. I'm a "talker" too!! :))

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'Day Cactus and thank you for the complement. I'm more than happy to be able to share some info with a camper from across the globe. I remember hearing some birds in the background of one of the clips. I'm not sure if it was this one or not but one of them had a Pied Butcherbird in the background. They have a lovely song that's for sure. I'm quiet lucky as I share a little valley with a small family of Butcherbirds and Magpies. I feed them a few treats in the morning (it's a bribe for their services). They kick up a huge racket if they find a snake or a Goanna around the house. They clean up any mice and rats and they keep the small Goshawks away from the chickens. They follow me around if I'm slashing or cutting firewood and cleanup anything the can find. It's taken about 5 years of feeding them but they have just started eating out of my hand. I must admit, I was never really into birds until I moved back to the bush. I really enjoy seeing the different families around the farm grow and change. Back onto machetes, I have only heard good things about Old Hickory. I reckon yours will be a pearler once you're done. Are you putting on a nice desert hardwood handle? I don't know if it's the same in the US but the long since dead desert trees around here provide some of the hardest timber handles you can find. All the best mate! Ben

[@cactuswren9771]

Yes, Ben! We have so few birds here, especially in this part of the desert. I miss them, so probably why I locked onto yours. You care for them and they care for you! :)) I like that. The Old Hickory knife is fine carbon steel at an affordable price. The big 14" blade costs ~$15 USD on Ebay and holds up forever. I make bush knives out of their 7" blades too. These fit perfectly in a military Ka-bar sheath. I can buy those new for ~$10 US. I make a decorative forced patina on the steel to help avoid rusting. And I use our beautiful rock hard, chocolate and orange colored desert ironwood with copper accents along the full tang and copper pins for the handles. Wood hardness second only to ebony. It is such dense wood, it doesn't float in water! Sinks like a rock! It is so easy to pry the rivets off the boring original hickory wood handles and replace them with something eye-popping with better shape for your hands. All in all, a very affordable, beautiful and useful tool. And no, Old Hickory did NOT pay me to say that!! :)) I just like them. Give my love to your birds. I'll be watching your other vids. I just subbed! :)) Best to you down under. Oh, by the way... I call my modified 14" Old Hickorys the Crocodile Dundee "noives" when they are finished!! :)) Because it really is a butcher knife, it kinda freaks people out being that big!! :)) I guess size does matter, eh.... :))

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I'm so sorry for the late reply! The handles sound lovely and I'm glad you get to use some hard local timbers. I have heard nothing but great things about Old Hickory. It is a shame they are not so popular here in OZ but I might just go take a look and see if any are easy to get. I like the good Aussie name as well! Not to plug North Arm Machete Co (I'm trying to avoid linking it too much for legal reasons) but go check out the FB page. The most recent post is the Spotted Gum Handle & A Half machete mods. I'm sold on these for a chopping and bushcraft style machete. It sounds like you could knock up one of these in your sleep. In an age where everyone is trying to make their gear light (drilled out or tapered tangs), I found that a heavy and long handle really improves the chopping power as well as the comfort while carving. The harder timbers are more than capable of holding up to the over hang past the tang. If I get a chance, I will film the unlikely family of birds when I feed them in the morning. I will hide it in a clip somewhere. Hey, we have a little family of Superb fairywren's that recently came back. Now that is a cute bird! All the best Cactus! Ben

[@dragan3290]

I've been looking for a hands on skill on machetes for a long time! Machine sharpen? Easy! But I like the fact you mentioned chainsaw sharpener! I have extremely coarse files but I want a better finish! My 20years old Tramontina sharpened up that I was able to slice through paper quite easy! But I want it like my new Gerber! Awesome tutorial! Subbed and liked!🙂👍👍👍👍

[@annapeterson5897]

It seems like my husband and I are the major contributors on this video. The reality is that we are in the same situation you are. A large piece of property wherein the vegetation is managed predominantly through the use of well maintained and sharp machetes. So, this is a high point of interest for us. There are a number of sharpening systems out there. We have ours as well. We know what we're up against in terms of vegetation and what it takes to manage it. We both know Tramontina makes it a habit of not extending the grind all the way to the very tip. On Latin Style machetes, do you find a decided need to keep the tip very sharp as well? With the exception of poking into thorny vegetation to get at dead limbs, we've seen the vast majority of our cutting is right in the belly of the blade about 4"-6" back from the tip. We also use the 6"-8" section from the handle forward. We keep that area razor sharp. In some circumstances in palm trees, the angle needed requires you to come under the branch and when they're green, you can use that section closest to the handle to get a good clean cut. Those who are new to machete use would be very well served to pay close attention to this channel. We use the pinch grip. Although many machetes can be used for batoning, that isn't in their job description. The reason Tramontina Machetes are so good is they are made in Brazil where machetes have been used for over 100 years on a daily basis by many. They know what a machete should be capable of and how best to make them. Ben, thank you so much for providing such a solid and informative channel for those of us who literally base our workday around the effectiveness of the machete.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Thanks for the kind words Anna! Yes you both have been great contributors to the comment sections and its nice to chat with like mined people from around the world! It is an odd topic to share considering we are on opposite sides of the globe! Tip sharpening is another big topic. I know why Tramontina ship theirs blunt and I'm thankful for it. It's the first part of any tool to loose it's temper when overheated while sharpening and to be honest, I would prefer it if they sold them not ground back at all. They pack the 10 machetes loose in a thin walled box and 6 boxes to a case. It would get dangerous if they start poking through the boxes during transit. Some uses prefer the tips to be blunt. I'm sure you would agree that Tramontina make a fine quality machete, they are just not finished from the factory! I have found the tips on machete are mostly used for slashing and clearing veg like grasses, vines and masses of young weeds. Westerners tend to use machinery for that task so is their a real need for us to keep the tip sharp? That is up to each user but for me, it is the least important section of the edge. I do keep it tipped up though. If you're grubbing around in the soil, a blunt-ish tip is all that is required. I do use a very relaxed grip most of the time now and the pinch grip is my go to as well. It's all in the flick of the wrist! Thanks again for the kind words Anna! All the best, Ben

[@MasterK9Trainer]

Good video and I like the simplicity of your method and chosen tools.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Cheers M K9 T! I was a little over seeing 'sharpening nazi's' post up complicated and expensive systems of getting an edge that just puts off people wanting to give it a go. I was lucky enough to have an old timer show me lots of different methods when I was younger... he had the opinion that you can still get a properly sharpened crafting edge whether you have an expensive or cheap system. I'm really happy to share his information! It helped me out that's for sure. Thanks for the complement mate! Kind regards, Ben

[@cottagefarmflowers]

Marvelous! Loved the whole thing. I learned a ton, and greatly appreciate your chatty nature. I use my machete alot and suck at maintaining the edge. I'll give it a go - wish me luck!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'Day Leslie and thank you for the complement! One point I can't make often enough is that machetes are very usable across a wide range of sharpness levels, but they are a song to use with a keen edge. I still remember watching locals sharpening their machetes on concrete or finding a rock in the dirt close to where they are working. We are lucky here in the west as decent sharpening gear is relatively inexpensive and easy to get. Thanks for commenting about my 'chatty' nature! I can't change them stripes no matter how hard I try. It can be a curse at times though. I moved back to the countryside seven years ago wanting to get away from the busy city. I have at least two locals drop in to the workshop every day for a good chat (that can last more than an hour...each!). I really enjoy it but I don't get any work done during that time. It is important to stay connected with your neighbours when you're out in the bush so the effort comes very easily. I'm lucky as every single one of them is just lovely! Country people are easy to get along with. Good luck with the sharpening Leslie! All the best mate, Ben

[@southernlandsolo7839]

Quite possibly the best sharpening video on KZbin bro. Great detailed explanations and examples but simplified for simple buggers like me. I have been watching Houseboat Rob's channel as well. He lives in Louisiana USA where the machete would seem to be the tool of choice, Similar bush to your area possibly. Thanks for the sharing and teaching bro. Dave

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

First up, thanks for the complements. Honestly just happy to share the sharpening tips with everyone. It took me a long while to learn how to sharpen due to people making the actually fairly simple process over complicated. Although I would love the crown of best sharpening video on youtube, I'm happy to settle for 'helpful for those struggling' comments. I got to say, It's always nice to stumble across a fellow Aussie in the comment section. I will be checking out your channel very soon. I will go take a look at Houseboat Rob as well. Thanks for the tip mate. All the best, Ben

[@southernlandsolo7839]

@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia lol sorry bro, a Kiwi hahaha

[@MasterK9Trainer]

Terrific tutorial. I cam to watch it again.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Cheers MasterK9Trainer! I'm glad you're finding the info helpful. Thanks for the channel support. All the best, Ben

[@yag359]

I've been using a somewhat large file to sharpen my machete. It is a little cumbersome. I liked the small hones you used in this video. Is there a grit level for the 2 you used? Do you know if these types of hones are available on Amazon?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Happy to help, Yag. If you search for 'EZE-LAP L PAK4 Set' in Amazon, you will find a set there. They cut really aggressively until you break them in. EZE-LAP list them as 1200grit for the blue and 600grit for the red. I find that they are much finer than that but they cut just as quickly as a 1200 and 600 grit. I would not use these to replace a file, though. The file does most of the work removing material. The stone puts a working edge on the machete. The hones and strop just refine that working edge. I hope this helps, mate.

[@QuantumMechanic_88]

Very nicely demonstrated and Thanks !

[@pedrochavez6838]

Hey brother thank you and don’t worry bout the trolls in my opinion you don’t talk enough. Lol. Good stuff. God bless.

[@totallyfrozen]

Your vids are the BEST in regards to the machete. BTW, in America we pronounce Arkansas as “Ar-can-saw”. 👍🏻

[@Techxrd7]

Agreed, another great video! Here's some segestions of videos: how to make/pick/prepare a strop and which machete to pick for the job.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Robert Shimel What a great comment Robert! I know I talk a lot in my clips but I keep remembering great little tips that some people might find helpful... There is still a lot more info I can share about using strops so I will expand on that in the next video. As with picking the right machete for the job, that is a very good question. There are many styles and weights to choose from and for good reason. Hopefully I can give everyone some information so they can choose a machete that suits there needs. I will do a video on that in the near future! Thanks for the comment and the good suggested video idea Robert!

[@moparhemi1777]

I really enjoy your videos so far. Hope to see more of them, especially some with field use of your tools^^ greetings from germany

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Mopar HEMI Thanks Mopar! I'm glad I have a few folks that like these clips. It's the reason I decided to start putting them up here on KZbin. I actually dislike being in front of a camera but I though I should pass on what has been shown to me over the years. Lots more video ideas on the white board. I just need to find the time. I'm keen to do some more hands on clips out in the field but I have a nasty case of 'Tennis Elbow' and I'm going easy on on that arm for the moment. Thanks for the comment mate! Much appreciated. Regards, Ben.

[@jimrafferty5609]

Thanks for that info, I feel more confident sharpening my knife now.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Jim Rafferty Thanks Jim! I get a little frustrated sometimes when I see expensive and complicated sharpening systems shown as the only way. Sharpening tools properly is often made out to be something mystical or difficult. I find it is the opposite. It just takes a little practice and a nudge in the right direction. Starting out on machetes is even easier as the perform well across a range of sharpness levels. Even if you did not do a great job of it, it will still perform. ..... They are a joy to use when properly sharp though!

[@jimrafferty5609]

Keep up the good work, you make a lot of sense. Thanks again, hope the info I sent helps, good luck.

[@larrysimmonsjr472]

Hello good info as always, I tend to use a hardback strop for my machete, axe and knife in the field in you can move it around like a file And the strop is much lighter than the machete. Great video keep them coming this is Larry from Idaho.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

That is a darn good point Larry. I was planning on doing an clip on ridged strops and if you don't mind, can I include that point? It's funny I missed that as I'm well use to choosing to move the lighter tool when sharpening. I think I stuck with that slack belt strop in the clip as I was trying to prove another point. That was very small and compact sharpening equipment can effectively maintain a big edge. I have a few different ideas for paddle strops that I wanted to include in the next stropping series when I get a chance to film it. Actually, I do have a small paddle strop on my bench that I use to tip up a small area on a machete when I'm checking the edge. I use it in much the same way as you mentioned. Thanks for the comment Larry. All the best, Ben

[@frankvazquez4050]

Excellent instructions. I save any canvas webbing for potential projects. I'm thinking of gluing a short piece to a paint stirring stick to strop my pocket knives and my Mora knives which have a flat grind and I would like to keep them that way.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Mate, thank you for the complements! Yes, I would be more cautious with a zero grind scandi. Keep that glue thin so it does not bleed through the canvas creating a hard spot. Actually, if the paint stick is already very flat and smooth, you can actually put the stropping compound directly on the timber surface. Wood carvers have known this trick for a very long time but compound on smooth and flat piece of timber makes an excellent strop. Hardwood strops perform differently to soft wood strops. Typically, you use a very sharp hand plane and smooth the surface first.

[@richardsolomon8076]

Love it, I have a bolo style is my favorite old as Sheffield stamp on the blade, Grandpa called it a sugar cane knife 360mm long blade, heavy beast. Probably ½ the weight again as my same size trammie and cheep ones she's only ever had a double cut flat bastard and a wet stone :) love the fine gear and strop for my knives tho. Kiaora from New Zealand. Great video Ben

[@richardsolomon8076]

Sorry second cut :-) file same as chain saw file just bigger

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

It's always nice to hear from our Kiwi Brothers and thank you for the comments mate. Some of the older machetes really are diamonds in the rough. They are even better when they come with a bit of family history. One huge advantage to machetes is that they can perform very well over a range of different sharpness levels. Some drag the rounded edge over concrete and they can get them to perform. Others put a stropped edge on for crafting but the general purpose file and stone routine ticks most boxes. It's a no fuss edge that really performs. My favorite workshop sharpening file is a touch finer ( 10" Mill Bastard) than yours but I do rely a lot on the belt grinder to do most of the grunt work. I think your second cut and stone routine would be good for most machete users to be honest. Thanks again for the complement Richard! All the best from OZ mate, Ben

[@Stupidityindex]

Very good lecture.

[@peteremerson4150]

Thanks for the informative video. Cheers Bushiemmo

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I hope it's helpful Peter. All the best mate, Ben

[@winstonsmiths2449]

I use the soft side of a genuine leather belt. glue it to a board and strop using that. The leather gives just a bit but not enough to roll back on the edge of the blade. Works great.

[@djdanzy]

Whats the difference between a mill bastard and a mill 2nd cut? Thanks And should I ve leather stropping even mower blades? I bougbt a barbers leather strop from an antique shop. Thanks also have you heard of the lansky puck ?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

To be honest. I always found the descriptions a little confusing. My understanding is that they refer to how coarse they are. 'Bastard' is the most coarse and removes material fast (the cutting teeth are far apart). '2nd' is the file you use next as it is a little finer (cutting teeth are closer together). I prefer sharp mower blades but I would not bother stropping them. They generally heat treat the steel in mower blades to be on the softer side. It's much safer to have a blade take a dent when you hit a rock. If they were really hard, they would crack and throw steel. For sharpening mower blades, straight off the grinder or file is plenty sharp in my opinion. A little wire edge (burr) is not going to make any difference. The edge will round over quickly anyway. Yes, I really like Lansky's double sided puck. It's great for refining the edge on most garden equipment. I would only bother putting a nicer edge on a machete if it was going to be a crafting tool. Most of the time a fill and double sided stone is going to give you a great working edge. Stropping is really only needed for crafting work. I hope some of the above was helpful

[@jamespayne4759]

That for answering so quickly. I have leather, it came with the machete, I don't trust it. PVC, I have some and I'll se what I can do to with my 2 speed hot blower. "Take care", Jim

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Mate I'm more than happy to share info with a fellow maker! Leather is lovely to work with but machetes tend to be hard on it. PVC is quite forgiving to work with (a lot easier than ABS) but heat it up outside. The fumes are dangerous if you burn or scorch it. I started out with a hot air gun and I found it the safest option if you don't have an oven big enough. I would love to see your setup once your done Jim! All the best, Ben.

[@007Narsil007]

Another excellent video, Ben; thank you! I'd love to see a video on making those sheaths from PVC pipe.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Grant Coleman Cheers Grant and thanks for the comment! I must admit, I have really been enjoying the whole process so far. At the end of the day I'm just passing on info someone shared with me and it's important to pay if forward. The PVC sheaths....I will come up with a video on that in the future. They have proven to be a huge asset on our farm and out in the bush.

[@ardnira]

hi ... need a little enlightenment here. how to maintain sharpness when used rarely? does it need to be sharpened regularly even though it is rarely used? thank you, your video is very easy to understand

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Actually, that is a good question Arindra. The really quick answer is regular stropping with a compound makes a huge difference. If it the tool is just lightly used, you can still keep them performing with compound on a strop. With any cutting tool that has a keen edge, regular stropping with a compound is your best bet. If you have taken the time to put a really nice edge on your knife, a quick 30 second trip to the strop really helps keep that edge performing. My workshop knives (box cutters, marking knives, exacto and razor blades, pen and carving knives etc) don't often need to go back to a stone as I quickly strop them if they feel a little dull. Eventually, all knives will need to go back to a stone sharpen. Hand powered stropping only works for so long. With machetes, it's only slightly different. They can see hard use and they do benefit from going back to a fine stone and then to a strop. You can micro bevel (just sharpen the very edge) with the stone as this makes the process go quite quickly. You can also use the machete's length to your advantage. Keep the edge closer to the handle for carving and crafting and the edge under the sweet spot is for chopping. I hope some of that was helpful Arindra. All the best from OZ, Ben

[@ardnira]

hi Ben, Everything you mentioned above to help me understand your answer to my question is not all the tools to sharpen the machete available in my country. So I can't make it real and do what you teach Lol .. but I understand your point and you explain it in great detail (like natural compounds), it looks like steel, nature and machetes have become your lifestyle, Ben. thank you for the lesson you gave. I hope you are always healthy in Oz Arindra (Indonesian)

[@czechmate9591]

Great video mate, very well demonstrated

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+SOUTHERN CROSS SURVIVAL Thanks SCS. Mate I really like this method of machete sharpening. With a small pouch of tools I can keep a machete tuned up in the bush without a problem. Thanks for the kind words! Ben

[@GetMeThere1]

Amazing. This guy's channel seems basically dead. Yet, overall (and especially, what you can draw from it if you think a bit), this is probably the BEST SHARPENING VIDEO ON KZbin! And I should know -- I'm obsessive about sharpening and sharpening videos. There are some real artists on youtube, too. But this video is ORIGINAL stuff. I came here because I had the bright idea that there's no real reason why leather should be so favored as a stropping material (which lead me directly to his stropping video). In fact, if you look at the leather strops mounted on wood that are available these days, they're VERY uneven. It's a bit absurd, really, the have the idea that you can get an ultra-sharp edge from uneven material (yes, people do it, but they do it IN SPITE OF the fact that they're using what MUST be poor materials). FURTHERMORE, who should know more about sharpening than a machete guy? A hard day of machete use probably puts more work on a blade than most people put in a LIFETIME on their knives! At any rate, IMO, this guy is a sharpening genius, and there's more to learn from him than watching videos all day of guys sharpening knives with $400 Japanese stones. Thank you, sir, for sharing your sharp thinking on sharpening.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

What a champion comment! Cheers mate! I'm in your camp with leather strops. I'm not that far off shooting another DIY strop video where I use compound directly on a rigid pine strop. Honestly, it's the best strop I have ever used. It's fast, flat and has just the smallest amount of give to it so I would still class it as beginner friendly. It's so easy to make, the only trick to it is to not use sandpaper to smooth the timber down. That just pushed abrasive particles into the strop surface. If you use a hand plane (or a cabinet scraper if you're careful) to smooth it down flat, you end up with a very fast cutting strop that you can also use with a little more pressure while stropping. Pine/Oregon both accept a compound readily. Their are a few other major advantages but I will save them for the next clip. I'm also in your camp regarding people making sharpening seem expensive and unachievable. It's far from it. You can get extremely sharp tools with basic equipment and a little guidance. I suspect a lot of the complicate information comes from people selling something. Leather strops work well, but it's hard to make money from someone by selling them a really smooth stick. That is the reason you have a lot more leather strop clips on youtube. Thanks for the comment GMT1. All the best, Ben

[@GetMeThere1]

@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Sounds great. In fact, after watching your videos I had ordered a couple blocks of basswood and a couple blocks of balsa wood -- they are very light and soft woods that are often used for carving. So I've already had the idea to use what you're now recommending. It's true that there's a lot of excessive "fuss" on this topic -- and unfortunately, few are as bold and direct as you to just call it what it is, and explain it all in a straightforward manner. I really do appreciate what you've had to say so far; it's gotten my head straight on the entire business -- it's also got me interested in purchasing a nice machete; I've been on a tear of buying expensive knives lately (I've bought half a dozen nice Bark River knives in the last two weeks, lol). Thanks again for your work and your time -- given the value, I'm sure everyone who has had the opportunity to see your work greatly appreciates it.

[@forestweston5055]

My favorite strop is white polishing compound on a pine board. Very fast, portable, and perfectly flat.

[@GetMeThere1]

@@forestweston5055 I think you're right. I think "compound" will be better on wood than diamond paste. I've had spotty results with diamond paste trying to work on basswood and poplar -- but I see how compound would be better, because it will give "hold" to the abrasive where dried diamond paste could eventually just dust off.

[@forestweston5055]

@@GetMeThere1 , As far as $400 stones??? Foolish. I still have the whetstone that my grandfather taught me to sharpen a scythe with over 50 years ago. I have many others but none work any better than that old, well worn carborundum stone.

[@MawoDuffer]

If the edge is too thin it will easily roll so find a good balance of angle between the primary bevel and the micro bevel.

[@Moostery]

It's nice when the strop is grippy though. Makes it stupid easy to feel when you are stropping at the right angle. You can feel the drag of the whole edge and not just the point or heel of it.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I totally agree Moose (Canuck?). I really like a strop with a lot more friction. I learned about stropping from wood cavers many years ago and most of them used the really dry compounds that don't grab an edge. I'm guessing they preferred it as it was cleaner (no compound on the knife and on the timber you're carving). I personally like it greasy/oily compounds on a hard timber strop. With the extra friction, I find it is much quicker and I can feel what is happening at the edge. I just wipe the edge off with some solvent when I'm done if needed. I find the dry and less grabby strops suit slack belt stropping when I'm away from the workshop. It is challenging when you do it one handed like in that clip and prefer it to glide rather than grab. Thanks for the comment mate. All the best, Ben

[@Moostery]

Not quite. Just a bit below canada in new england.

[@gemsbokpan5062]

Great video

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Cheers mate! Thanks for the complement.

[@paulie4x1]

Say Heah Ben, I only have a couple of machetes. I still have my Military Issue O. K. C 18" Machete and it's sharp. I also have a Vintage O. K. C. Blackie Collins 22" O. K. C. Heavy Duty with D-Ring Machete I keep it sharp, We use it to clear out a camp area. I also have a Rucki it's very sharp and tough. A SR101 53100 Ballbearing Carbon Steel Busse Technology Tempered I think it's Deferentially Tempered with some nitro added. I think I know their INFI Steel has it. I just recently put black handles on my Johnson Adventure Potbelly and Parangatang. I love the black handles alot better. The Parangatang is very sharp and in tge 1095 CroVan Steel. Then my L6 Battle Horse Mad Hatter Machete needless to say it's very sharp. and my Bark River it's a Full Convex. It's very sharp. I also have a Cold Steel vintage Double Edge in tge 1055 made in Africa and its very sharp. I also have a Condor Blue Handle Saber Machete in tge 420HC I used it to clear my Duck Blinds and it's very sharp and my Woodsman Pal Premium Machete in the 1075 and I keep it sharp. It's made in Pensilvania, U. S. A. I frequent PA alot so I use it tgere. It's a Military version. Leather stack handle with a knuckle guard and it's sharp. I make sure my tools are in tip top shape. Infact I have two BK-20 Bundok Bowieand the BK-29 Moses Bowie both around 12"+ and I can use them as clearing tools and tgeir sharp too. Great review Ben, Thanx You.,,. p

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'day Paulie! Mate I'm SO sorry about the slack response times. It has been a crazy busy past few week and I only just got on top of everything. I'm so seriously lost in all your kit! It sounds like you have a collection that most would be envious of. I know that you use your gear, that puts your opinion on what works on the highly regarded list in my book. Have you thought about doing a blog or setting up a review channel? A lot of other campers would benefit from your advice on the topic (myself included). I did a lot of research and testing many years ago but like everything, the industry evolves quickly. The price of the 'super steels' is coming down as the new fashionable ones take top place. That changes the affordable end of the market for the rest of us. It is one of the reasons I also stuck with the agricultural tool range. Everyone can manage one and to be honest, the steel quality is more than enough for most users. I'm going to sort through all the post now mate! BTW, that woodsman pal looks like a nice piece of kit. One of my favourite machetes is the super thin cane knife but the sheath issues stop me from carrying it around as much. It is a veggie garden tool for me. I know the WoodsMP is a fair bit thicker though with a lot more features. All the best, Ben

[@paulie4x1]

Machete Bushcraft Australia Cheers Ben, Infact I started putting Key Rings on some of the Sheath's that have holes in them like my Bark River Golok Sheath this way I add a strap to it and shoulder carry it. On some of my Kydex Sheath's I put small belts then Strap my Leather strap and shoulder carry them too. Maybe you can do that with your thin Machete what wiggles too much, Cheers, Ben.,,. p

[@Glock-1]

I’ve never used canvas only leather but good to know you can use it

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Canvas is still a very popular sheath material for machetes. They often put a sacrificial piece of leather/plastic in the seam so the edge cant cut through easily. It all depends on how sharp you keep your machete. I personally would not use it for a long tool.

[@harvestblades]

Great vids brother and greeting from the Colorado Rockies. I use a strop on my straight razor and many knives but having a long loaded strop for my machetes in the field is a great idea. I would like to know the thickness of cotton canvas you use. And where you found it. Other than a big canvas belt which would be much thicker and heavier I can't think of where to find canvas webbing as everything is synthetic nowadays. I will be checking the rest of your videos but I definitely enjoy seeing vids on how you actually use the machete especially for non machete tasks like filleting fish etc. living in non machete country (conifers and some hardwoods) I'm the only person I know around here that uses one.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Larry Koziol G'Day Larry from the Rockies! I tend to keep my machetes as sharp as a knife so a machete strop was inevitable. I always take one with me now when I'm camping more than a few nights as It weighs very little. Yep, everything is becoming synthetic and canvas webbing is a little tougher to get. the strop in this clip is canvas reinforcing tape 1 1/4 wide by 1/32 thick. Horse rug repair places might stock it or know where to get it. I have not tested it but I bet fluffy rayon reinforcing tape would work the same. I will test some soon to see if the wax and compound stick to it. Strictly speaking, most western countries are not machete country (any more) but I get around that as I just treat them as big knives. Thanks for the kind words Larry and I'm glad you find the clips enjoyable! All the best, Ben BTW, let me know how you get on with the strop!

[@harvestblades]

+Machete Bushcraft Australia I agree completely and I keep a file and a canoe file (oblong stone) on my machete but often use my eze-lap diamond sharpener and ceramic rod on the machetes to get that nice edge. I do like using a loaded strop and getting a field strop setup like that for field use may be handy so I may throw one together this weekend. Also I didn't notice them on your site I know they are easy to make but some people would rather spend the money than the time. Also a little plug I recommend people check out your store it looks like great products and fair prices for what you get. Also I really need to give the Tramontina 14" bolo a try I've heard so much about them but I primarily use Latin styles with a modified clip point (shark tooth) or a 18" machete cut down to a 16" "parang" style.

[@DanTopPhotography]

Excellent vid! Thank you.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Cheers mate! I'm glad you found the info helpful. Thank you for the complement!

[@DanTopPhotography]

Very informative. I now have a shaving machete. 👍

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

It's a good feeling when you get it right. Well done mate!

[@anonz975]

Great video, you explained everything well and I learned a lot. Plan to buy some of those EZE Lap files. Thanks!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Thanks for the complement mate! Honestly, I'm just happy to share the good information that was handed to me over the years. I'm glad it is helpful to other campers around the world. I do really rate the EZElap hones. They cut fast, fine and last a long time. They take a while to break in though but after the blue lap, its a quick 5min hand strop to a very keen edge. All the best Anon Z, Ben.

[@poppopscarvinshop]

Ok, First Question from me, and it's a Very Difficult One. I live in the Northern Hemisphere, since you're making Clockwise Swirls with your Eze-Lap, do I need to make Counter-Clockwise Swirls with mine? (just kidding!) I Love the Channel! I'm trying to sharpen my Son's $5 WalMart Machete and I'm having a Heckofa time re-profiling the bevel and getting a decent edge on it. I've got a good Convex primary bevel but, I haven't been able to get the wire to show up yet. I've been trying the traditional sharpen towards the cutting edge with no luck. I'm going to try sharpening from the backside when I start back at it in the morning. This and the first sharpening videos are really Awesome and I Really Do Appreciate The Help! Thanks Much!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+James White Hahaha! Ya had me going for a second! I'm glad you found the two sharpening clips helpful. I worked this method out as a lot of the beginners I had been showing the ropes too were really uncomfortable with the traditional 'file into the edge' This backwards method is much easier and to be honest, I don't use the traditional method anymore. The backwards method is just as effective and I find it much safer. Thanks for your kind words mate! Honestly, I'm just happy to share the info as someone passed it onto me a long time ago. Best of luck with the sharpening and let me know how you get on with it! Kind regards, Ben. Hey it's nice you're tuning this up for your Son! I'm looking fwd to doing the same but my little Man is only 2 1/2.. Few years yet!

[@harvestblades]

That's great you have a machete for your son! Seven of my eight kids have Tramontina machetes (ages 18-3) and I would highly recommend you grab one for your son they run about the same as a wal mart machete and the steel can take a edge much easier and longer than the Walmart with its soft steel. The softness of the steel makes getting a good edge tricky and then the rolled edge needs to be reworked very often. Keep up the good work raising kids right.

[@GBLW]

Ben I always carry a steel with a strop cause I think that keeping that edge is just as important a stropping it. Don't know if you have tried it but there is a lot of positive reasons why butchers have them on their side you can buy small ones but they are hard to come by just as good as having a Field stone and/ or file try it out and tell us what your thoughts are.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'Day mate! Funny you should mention that as I watched a clip last week about a bushcrafter that has never sharpened his Mora in two years but only hones it with a dull/fine butchers steel. I think I know what is happening and am keen to test it out myself. I have always been of the belief that a butchers steel does not sharpen a knife, but straightens a rolled edge. I think what is actually happening is the harder steel is moving the softer knife's edge much the same way a burnishing tool moves the steel on a card scraper. Either way, it's well worth a test and I'm going to have a good play with it.

[@s.f.outdoorsclub7794]

Looking forward to seeing the DIY strop video, are you still making it? checked your instructables page, but nothing there either. Also, does nylon webbing work as a stropping material? Cheers

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+S.F. Outdoors Club Yes the Strop making clip is on the list. It is a timely question as I was testing nylon strops out today. Nylon (synthetic) does work as a strop material. For some reason it is a little more 'grabby' and I have been testing some solutions. When you use cotton/linen webbing as a strop, you condition the surface with bees wax or paraffin wax before you apply the stropping compound. This helps build up a nice smooth surface for the edge to slide along with a little grab/friction. For some reason the same treatment on a synthetic strop creates too much friction straight away. I tested some hard paraffin (just hard candle wax) and it was much better and straight stropping compound on the nylon works the best. There is a lot more stretch in the thin nylon webbing I was using. I would still pick a thin cotton/linen webbing strop over nylon but honestly, you will not notice too much of a difference. They both get you the same results in the end. Hope this was helpful mate! kind regards, Ben

[@s.f.outdoorsclub7794]

Thanks for your help. Much appreciated

[@zeesquare1480]

Great information, thank you! I have a question: what is the green strip stick? Is it paraffin?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Good question Zee. It's been a while since I watched this clip. Are you asking about the little green crayon? If so, it's just a very fine abrasive in wax. Metal workers call these buffing compound and wood workers call these stropping compound. If you get a wood workers style stropping compound, generally these cut fast enough for hand stropping. Some of them cut slow and suit power stropping. Veritas green chrome and flexcut gold are two that really suit hand stropping. I hope that helps mate.

[@albertlevy3721]

I presently own a cold steel Kukhri machete I am thinking of replacing it with an Ontario 18 inch military machete or a tramontina in 12 inch any advice? I really don't have useable funds for anything expensive. I live in Arizona keep that in mind.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I could write a small essay on the topic Albert but I will rein it in a bit. I'm guessing you're using this for camping/buswalking? Ontario make decent gear but I'm not a fan of the handle on that model. An important safety consideration with any swinging tool is the swollen area behind your hand. Because that tab on the Ontario extends past the back of the handle, when you really need it, the machete has already cocked out of your hand. That is just my 2c worth though. If funds are tight, I would be looking at the Tramontina 18" Latin. Arizona has some tough timbers (like us here in OZ) and the extra weight over the 12" latin would be of benefit. You can chop branch style firewood using the 12" with good technique and a sharp edge. It just takes a little more effort. You can carve and craft a lot easier with the shorter 12". The Tramontina's really need a good sharpening before they are usable. Great steel, handle and heat treatment but the factory grind is just a starting off point. I hope that helps Albert.

[@albertlevy3721]

@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia thank you helps a lot.

[@KinuGrove]

I live in Honduras now now and all the machetes they sell come with no edge at all. What do you suggest you do initially when your starting with a new blade like this.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'Day from Australia Kinu! That is fairly normal for proper agricultural machetes, they all come with almost no edge. It's not a bad thing as you get to pick how you would like it sharpened. As their is a lot of steel to remove by hand when they are blunt and new, probably the easiest way is to take it to a town sharpener to put the primary bevel on the machete. I'm guessing here but that still should be a normal practice in Honduras. Ask at the local Agricultural stores or hardware stores who is the best in the area. If you're like me and need to do everything for yourself, Colhane has a great youtube clip on it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6S9k5Jnjct5ftE I would film my own but I have a rule that if I upload a video, it needs to show something new and Colhave covers this topic very well in my opinion. I'm not a fan of the scandi section he puts on his machete, but It may also suit you. I can carve and craft just fine with a sharp convex edge. I think the convex edge holds up better with the dried (& hard) timber. I hope that helps Kinu. All the best, Ben

[@annapeterson5897]

My husband watched this video yesterday. It's tough to get him in front of a screen for too long but he instead watched this intently and then wanted to see more of your videos. He uses a 18" Tramontina exclusively and has been using a brown leather belt with Turtle Wax polishing abrasives for stropping and has been getting very good results. We have to contend with palms and and heavy tall grass here in Florida so a very sharp machete is mandatory. He also uses it to level off the bushes and hedges on the property. I do have a question. I remember seeing machetes you had made and saw the hollow stainless pins in the handle. Can these be obtained in the US or is this strictly Australian? He wants to buy another 18" Tramontina and really set it up nice.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'day Anna and thanks for the complement! I'm glad I can share the info around. I did actually reply but deleted the response accidentally. So here we go again! The tube rivets are not originally an Australian thing and at a guess, they probably started out in the US. If you google 'DIY tube rivets for knife handles' you should find a wealth of info on them. Busse made them popular but I doubt they were the first as it's a very simple and effective fastening system. I'm still a fan of the longer Latin style machetes for big clearing tasks but I don't often use them much anymore. Tramontina machetes make great project machetes that's for sure! Thanks for the comment and complement Anna. Oh, I will do a clip on the car polish strop at some stage so thank you for the idea. Kind regards, Ben.

[@Azzaberjarnix]

Ben what grit is the stone and where did you get that one looks compact but big enough to put into leather pouch...?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'day Arron and thanks for the sub! The little pocket stone is a Norton or Bear brand pocket stone and you can pick them up at bunnings for around $6. I did some research into them and they don't list an actual grit size but my guess is between 400-600. It is a slow cutting stone so for a machete, you would still be needing to file the edge first, or use a coarser stone before hand. Bahco make a pink oval/slip stone for garden shears that is around $20 which I am testing at the moment. It is much coarser and cuts very fast.. I'm liking this one better as a stand alone stone. The 2 sided axe stones are also a very good option. I have not tried cutting them down to size but a diamond disk in a grinder should make short work of cutting these if a smaller stone is needed. Hope that was helpful mate!

[@Miranda-vw6vz]

Love your videos, very informative. Would you have any advice on sharpening a double edged machete? I got one a few years back while in Africa and I find sharpening very awkward. Thank you and greetings from Canada!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Thanks for the complements and question Miranda! It's a darn good question and I do not have any experience to share on sharpening double edged machetes. I can see that it would be a bit awkward but there will be some simple tips I could share. I started to write a response yesterday but wanted to think about it for a while first. My first thought was to google sword sharpening and I think that is a good approach for bench work but field sharpening is more of a challenge. Generally the toughest part of sharpening machetes with a file is at some stage you will need to work the tool from your less dominant hand. This gets more complicated as traditionally you push a file into the edge (your hand is moving into the edge and files are prone to shuddering and skipping). A double edge machete has 4 sides to sharpen so it is going to be a challenge with a file. I like to start out teaching people to always keep the the sharpening tool in the dominant hand. I find it gets people up and running much faster and it's a safer approach. I think the simplest approach would be to skip the file all togeather and stick with a 'Canoe Stone'. These are shaped like a long this canoe (funny that!) and are relatively coarse. Lansky sell them as do Norton if your after brand name stones. Sometimes they are called Garden Stones, boat stones.... If you're standing while sharpening, find a tree and square up to it so its right out in front. Hold the machete's handle in your less dominant hand and press the tip into the tree's bark to stabalise it. You now have access to the top half of the machete's two edges. You can now work both these edges using the canoe stone that is kept in your dominant hand. Using the axe method of small circles working your way to the tip, you will be able to work the two edges on this face that is up. Rotate the machete and you now have access to the other face and its two edges. You can get a perfectly serviceable edge on a machete using these coarse canoe stones only but you can go up to finer grits and strops of you like. Tips that you can try out/change with this method. You can stabalise your less dominant hand that is holding handle by resting it against your belly. You can raise and lower the tip of the machete until you find a comfortable working height for you. You can twist the machete to raise the outside edge ( will help in keeping your knuckles away as you reach over.) You can do this sitting while straddling a fallen tree, saw horse etc. Their are three methods you can try out or even mix them up. Axe (small circles) Stroke (the length of the edge) or the file method (push the stone into and along the edge in small sections) Is that any help or is it clear as mud? I hope It was helpful. All the best, Ben

[@Miranda-vw6vz]

Machete Bushcraft Australia That totally makes sense, and that's a lot of good stuff to look into. Thank you!

[@annapeterson5897]

Ben, I just emailed a bunch of our clients and friends whom also use machetes and directed them to your channel. The actual Turtle Wax product is "Renew Rx Rubbing Compound Heavy Duty Cleaner." We rub into the leather strop. We've used it both immediately after application and other times later. It appears to be significantly more aggressive after having a chance to dry. Puts a beautiful polish on the edge plus it really kicks up the performance! He (my husband) used it on his 12" coffin handle Bowie earlier tonight and it was amazing. You might be interested to know that your channel is the only one he has shown an interest in watching. He has watched this one four times already. How do you find time to do videos? What type of cameras or equipment will work for a KZbin video that will provide good results?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Anna thank you for sharing the channel with your friends and the info on the compound. Im sure this will be very useful to anyone reading that post and I bet that product would be easily found around the globe. Next time I'm in town I will it up and do some tests as well.

[@micheletennis87]

Hi, I wanted to ask you to bask in your experience as a machete would advise me in terms of robustness, quality and reliability, which would be your choice for the best machete? A greeting Michele.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'Day mate! Happy to share what I know. I could write an essay on the topic but the very short answer is to stick with Tramontina. Darn good quality tools at rock bottom prices. They are unfinished from the factory but if you can take the time to tune them up, you will also be able to maintain them. One of the other reasons I'm a fan of suggesting them is due to affordability. People tend to be more comfortable actually using them as intended as well as learning how to sharpen them. When you spend a lot on a machete, most of the time people hold back from using the tool as intended. Scratches, rust and dents in the edge are common when you're just starting out. Keep in mind that I'm yet to see a middle of the road machete that came with a properly ground primary bevel. Most people expect that the best edge they will get from that tool will be the one that came on it from the factory. Their are other good brands in the same category that I would not disregard. Imacasa and Carona are two that spring to mind but there are more. Middle of the road prices ($40-80USD mark)and well know western brands are full of a lot of show ponies to be honest. They have some exceptions like ESSE but I have not tested them. Condor (look up Joe Flowers. He really knows his stuff!) is another good one but keep in mind, a machete is thin and long vs a bush knife which is thicker steel. I class parangs, goloks and khukris as bush knives but that opinions ruffles feathers. Darn good tools but are slightly different to use. Top end ones are lovely to use but as mentioned before, a machete is a general purpose tool and if you're planning on relying on it, don't be afraid of using it now. They look better with age and use in my opinion. Bark River or custom machetes fall in to this category. Personally I would be picking a Tramontina or one of the top end ones. Definitely research your brands. Like any industry, this industry has it's share of doggy sellers. I hope some of that was helpful mate! All the best, Ben

[@Thornton733]

Can you show how you treat the strop with the bee wax?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I think I did that in the 'Anyone Can Make A Strop' clip? It's been a long while since I filmed it. Honestly, their is not much to it. Just rub it on and friction polish it with your palm. You can melt the first few coats in with a hair dryer (if you're careful). If you can't find it, Let be know and I will post up a link. All the best mate, Ben

[@Azzaberjarnix]

Thank you I will look into it in mean go to bunnings

[@kellyspann9845]

I take off my leather belt for my pants to strop my knife when out in the woods. I either stand on one end and pull it tight with the other hand or I hook the buckle on a branch and pull it tight that way. Works great.

[@waymarkerbushcraft]

Hey Ben, awesome set of videos. Lots of good advice. You don't speak much of angles and I was wondering what angle I should aim for for the micro bevel. In the first video you seem to match the angle of the main bevel with the file, removing all the magic marker ink. When you move to the stone do you then adjust the angle a degree or two to create the micro bevel? Also, the Norton pocket stone, do you know what grit it is? I've only had a quick look but I couldn't see any UK suppliers that had it. Last question, what is so special about the chainsaw file as opposed to any old metal file? Thanks for filming, Andy.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Waymarker Bushcraft G’Day Andy and thank you for the kind words! I’m glad you have found the videos helpful so far. I have so many more on the whiteboard but finding the time at the moment is a challenge. I will get there. They are all really good questions and I could write a lot on each point but I will keep it brief as no one wants an essay as a response! Q1: I don’t speak a lot about angles. For some reason, the web is full of strong opinions on edge angles. Part of it is probably the difficulty of explaining what is a thin, medium or thick edge on a forum... so we want to hear numbers. A convex edge complicates this little more as there is no fixed angle. The other problem that probably generated too much importance on exact angles is when you are a beginner sharpener that is struggling (all of us have been there!) it’s an easy thing to blame for a dull edge. You can get shaving sharp edges from a thin kitchen knife all the way to a thick chisel of 35 degrees and beyond. So, my simple take on it is to just focus on calling it thin, medium and thick especially when hand sharpening. Once you have removed enough of the material off a new machete (usually a lot) to expose a decent shaped edge, adjusting your machetes angles can be done by hand with a file. To be more direct in the answer, I tend to use a machete with a thin edge and the final micro bevel is about 20 degrees unless I’m cutting dry hardwood, then it’s about 25. I’m sure some will read this and feel that is far too thin but I have been getting great results with this edge on Tramontina machetes. They are really good tools in the rough! Which angle suits you is going to be different for everyone. With good cutting technique you can protect a thinner edge in heavier material. That is just practice and part of the fun! Finding the micro bevel is easy for beginners. Use the Magic marker trick lots until you get better. It does not take long to get the hang of it. Soon you will just mark the micro bevel with the marker and creep up to the angle until the marker is removed. What you may have missed was that this is a convex edge (not flat). As you start high on the bevel, each stroke with the file or stone, you increase the angle a little until you reach the edge (5-10 strokes). When you are micro bevelling with the finer stones, you can still follow the same procedure (helps you creep up to the final angle) just spend a little more time on the very edge. Noton pocket stone grit size? That’s a mystery unfortunately. It is something I looked into as well and came up with varying answers. I contacted Norton directly and they just called it a ‘fine stone’ (I doubt anyone knows anymore). That is not bad service. It’s just that most garden sharpening equipment in the cheaper end of the scale has always been classed as coarse, medium and fine. It feels and performs like a standard 400-600grit oil stone but is also quite hard. An alternative that I have tested which you can get in the UK is a Gransfors Bruks axestone. Lansky have some nice pocket stones in their jig sharpening kits if you wanted something specific, but I suspect you will get decent results with all the big brand abrasive suppliers. Stick with Bahco, GB, Lansky or Norton and you should do just fine. Anything fancy about chainsaw files? A lot of reasons come to mind and the first is quality. People that work with chainsaws all day (not me, just farm and firewood work!) are very hard on their tools and don’t have the time to deal with gear that does not perform and last. I doubt Stihl or Husky would let their reputation slip by letting a cheap quality file out on the market. I have found the quality and longevity to be great. Size is another reason. They are packable and getting quick release handles for them is easy. They have two safe edges and generally they are round so it becomes a built in tool for me to sharpen up a proper card scraper edge on the back of the machete. Because they are still commonly used today, I can always get good quality files easily. Sorry for the essay mate! Was any of that helpful? I’m happy to clarify anything I may have skipped over. Just let me know. Thanks for the questions Andy. Kind regards, Ben

[@waymarkerbushcraft]

+Machete Bushcraft Australia Hi Ben, thanks for the detailed answers. You're right, I hadn't realized that you maintain the convex shape right up to the edge and your explanation about just increasing the angle as you get closer has solved the mystery, thanks a million. I bought a Condor Golok a while back after destroying a Fox Knives Parang XL (check out my review video if you want a laugh). I took the Golok out once straight out the box and it wasn't much use - although it feels great weight distribution etc. So I'm going to try your system to get a decent edge on it as soon as my file arrives. Thanks again for all the advise, Andy.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Waymarker Bushcraft nice one mate! glad the info was helpful and I'm more than happy to share what has been shown to me. I have heard good things about the condor choppers and typically, new machetes need a lot of work on the edges to get them performing nicely...Even the expensive brands. let us all know how it works out with the condor and I will look up the review you mentioned.

[@annapeterson5897]

How has your experience been with the EZE-LAP hones? I ask because I wanted to buy the fine and superfine for James for Christmas through Amazon and what I saw were a fair amount of negative reviews centered around the diamond particles coming off or that they were irregular in terms of the material actually on the hones themselves. You seem to be having good luck with them, though. James has asked me about them a few times. When he leaves in the morning, he brings a stone, a small file or two, oil and a piece of non glazed ceramic. He also brings a rag and he puts these things in a small fannypack he has rigged up to work off his belt instead. I know he has watched this video with me a few times. I've never seen him strop during the day. He usually does that at days end when he is maintaining the machetes for the next day for everybody. This means sometimes 10-12 machetes at night plus his own 18" and now 12" Tramontina Latins. I know there was a big push just before Thanksgiving here for a month or so and he was pulling 10-12 hour days not counting tool maintenance and he is 57 as am I. Anyway, I want to get him what I know he'd really use.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I was just about to jump on and reply to James with the same question. So far, my experience with eze-lap has been excellent. One of my stones is now more than 20yrs old and It has been flogged over the years. I bought a few more over the years but 5 yrs ago invested in many more in various sizes and did notice a slight quality control drop in the newer stones however, I still rate them above the other stones in the same price bracket. I had some DMT's (different brand) that failed right off the bat. I suspect the vast majority of the complaints come from people who don't understand the break in process. It takes a long while and the stones cut very aggressively during that time. Once broken in, the roughness subsides and you are left with a plate that still cuts quickly but puts a much finer finish on the edge. For example, their super fine plate cuts as fast as a 1200grit stone but puts a 3000grit finish on the edge. The tops of the little diamond particles get knocked off in the break in process and I'm certain tiny spots on the plate will disappear all together. If there were many obvious spots, or their were whole areas of the diamond coating coming off, that would happen quickly and I'm sure fall under EZE-Lap's warranty. Only one of my stones had an issue. It had a buildup of grit on the outer edges. I just got an old file and knocked the two long edged down a little but and it was fine after that. 57 and still doing what you both do, all I can say Superman and Wonder Woman have nothing on you both!! My Neighbor is the same. He is the same age and still a Tree Surgeon. That man can work! I have seen him put a lot of younger lads to shame, myself included! They have a 600grit oval hone. looks a little like a small knife steel. actually a good 4 step combo for James would be a file-600grit oval hone-1200grit oval hone (not sure if they make this model) then abrasive strop.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Are the diamond hones a secret Anna? I don't want to blow the surprise!

[@annapeterson5897]

Somewhat. He has shown in an interest in them after watching you use yours. He keeps going back to that one video. He doesn't know I am looking to buy them for him but I do know he has been making his own inquiries. He gets a real nice edge doing it the way he has been, but it takes him a while. He actually seems to enjoy it, though.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

If you're a keen sharpener, the equipment and process can be a really personal thing. If It was me, I would really appreciate the gift that's for sure! I checked last night on amazon and they do make the oval hones in fine as well as super fine (600 & 1200grit). This is a different system than he is use to. I really like them but James may not.

[@jamespayne4759]

What type of material is your sheath made from?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'day James! I use PVC for a lot of reasons. Probably number 1 is that It is very cut resistant. I was destroying canvas sheaths pretty quickly as I tend to use machetes quite sharp. Even the leather ones did not hold up much longer and I found it was getting a bit unsafe. The other reason is that I strongly dislike catches and snaps and traditionally, machete sheaths have a lot of them. PVC solved all these issues I was having.

[@jasongreen5159]

Ahhh! You can't say ar-kansas it's ar-can-saw 😁 thank God I'm a Texan. Great info man

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'day Texan Jace and thanks for the complement. Oh you're so right mate. That comment has come up a few times and I still laugh when it does. To be honest, I actually thought they were two different places as I came across both pronunciations over the years. I'm guessing but I think the first time I came across the name was in a book... and the error stuck. I ended up looking into the history of the odd phonics and there is an interesting back story to it. All the best from OZ Jason, Ben

[@Rhythmicons]

First of all, fuck Texas. The correct pronunciation IS Ar-Kansas if we went by the Quapaw language, but the name has been anglicized (French) and it was eventually made into law. Lastly, I just messed with Texas and I'm from Arkansas though I'm trying to get the hell out.

[@GBLW]

I suppose it's just another technique of honing when you think about it. But it could cut down on the number of pieces in the field

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

You're on the money with that point. There are many way to sharpen. I was trying to show a cheap way beginners can get their gear carving sharp, as well as how small and light gear can sharpen large tools. Thanks for the comment mate! Kind regards, Ben

[@AustralianSurvivalSchool]

great to see mate...

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Australian Survival School Cheers Mate!

[@KatanaKamisama]

I realize this makes no sense, but Arkansas is actually pronounced Are-Ken-Saw. You said that strop was Canvas, does the material matter a lot? I know leather works, but that strop looks almost like an old safety belt from a car. Would that work you reckon? You could also put a parachord loop at your end of the strop and put it round your back or under your armpits and then just lean back a bit.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I'm so never going to live this one down Laz! Many of your fellow Americans commented on this. To be totally honest, up until a few years ago, I assumed there were two different towns in the US called Arkansas and Arkensaw. I'm guessing I read the name wrong when I was a kid (pre internet) learning about sharpening and the pronunciation stuck. Absolutely you can put a loop in it and use your body to pull the strap taught. The strap gets a little close to your body and it is slightly awkward to strop a machete but very manageable. I have done a lot of testing with different strop materials since filming that clip. There are many more items that you can convert to a very effective strop than I first realised. I have not tested (from memory anyway) seatbelt webbing but I can't see why it would not work well. If it can take a compound, it should be fine. I can test it my end if you like?

[@samnelson4975]

I save those expensive little diamond sharpeners for little stuff. A Lansky lawn mower blade sharpener works great on machetes.

[@samnelson4975]

and clamping the machete to the workbench with a c-clamp makes it safer and quicker to sharpen.

[@samnelson4975]

Norton makes one, too

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Yes, the garden stones are very capable at keeping a machete tipped up. Bahco is another that I would add to that list and I would not dismiss the axe stones either. The truth is that even as a single step sharpening system, it's going to get the job done well and you will end up with a decent edge. This clip was more about field sharpening methods and quickly achieving a very fine edge. After watching a lot of bushcraft clips where people carry heavy sharpening gear in with them, I wanted to show that you can sharpen a big tool quickly with very small tools. I still have not worn out the little paddlepop diamond hones, but they now see most of their work sharpening lathe tooling these days. You're right, clamp it to a bench for safety when you are back in the shop. Before I had a belt grinder, clamping a machete down to a tall sawhorse was the easiest way to file out chips. Thanks for the input Sam. All the best, Ben

[@jackboyd2352]

i have just bought a new machatte and i have tried all the sharpening options and the blade wont sharpen and i am new to knives i have been sharpening tools since i was 5 and i am now 59

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

G'day Jack and I'm sorry to hear about your frustrations. I reckon you know your way around sharpening gear so my first guess would be the the machete. Not all of them will take the same edge that you can put on a knife and this may be your issue. We tested many brands a long while back and it's one of the reason we now only use Tramontina. What brand machete are you working on? Is it a new one or second hand?

[@dorito_mauller]

I already have a razor sharp machete but it rust so I to clean and put oil on it.

[@mistermagpie9290]

Why exactly do you use the green crayon?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Bart Bogaerts Good question Bart and I probably did not explain that very well. The green crayon is actually a stropping compound. The compound is a very fine abrasive in a wax crayon like mix. I use the green chromium oxide compound as I find it's a good next (abrasive grit size) step to the super fine ezelap diamond hones. I'm left with a very sharp edge and I find the compound gets me there much faster. 'Green crayon' is just a nickname woodworkers have used for the green chromium oxide stropping compound... Well around here anyway as Australian's are notorious for abbreviating just about everything! There are an abundant amount of other stropping compounds to choose from if you wanted to experiment. You do not even need to use a compound at all if you just want to remove the wire edge. Thanks for the question. Hope that helped mate! Kind regards, Ben

[@mistermagpie9290]

+Machete Bushcraft Australia Thank you Ben, that really helped! But can you please give some examples of those other stropping compounds. Sorry of my ignorance, but I'm sort of new to bushcraft.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Bart Bogaerts No problem Bart. I'm happy to expand on it and I will try and not write an essay! A very simple view of stropping compounds falls into three types: 1. Traditional (wax type crayons, pastes, powders or grease with abrasives) 2. Modern - Diamond grit 3. DIY, which is a huge category including everything from carbon deposits from wood ash, autosol metal polish, paint pigment powders, talc, rock dust etc. The first is the traditional compounds. This is probably the most appropriate and easily available system for bush crafters. Off the top of my head, the 5 most common ones are Dark grey (coarse-most hard metals) Green chromium (fine- mostly for stainless steel but often used for plain high carbon steel) White (very fine - high carbon steel) Blue (super fine- plastic but has a minor effect on steel) Red rough (very fine- high carbon steel and gold, silver etc) Brown Tripoli ( wood- soft metals). The colours can vary with brands though! Diamond grit has been around for a while but is becoming more popular due to the availability of industrial, man-made diamond like compounds. Traditionally these were used with cast iron lapping plates or wheels but they can still be used on leather/wood/canvas/mdf strops. It gets a little expensive as you will find the need to recharge the soft strops regularly. DIY... honestly, it’s fun to explore but it’s a well followed path on the internet. Most of the stories I have read on that end up with people just sticking with the traditional compounds or diamond powders. The reason I settled on the green chrome compound is that it’s a good match up for my sharpening equipment. A $15 block will last most DIYers a life time of sharpening. The other two I often use are generally when I’m in the workshop. White when I want a finer edge after I finish stropping on the green compound and then just straight bee’s wax on a strop for cleaning while I work. I would still use the Green even If I finished off the sharpening process with a coarser stone as it will remove the wire as well as start to polish the high points on the rough edge. If I was recommending any beginner sharpener to pick a system, it would be the green chrome crayons. It is fast cutting with very good results on both Stainless Steel and plain Carbon Steel knives. Any of the major brands are fine. Hopefully that was not too much of an essay but it’s the short, short overview!

[@mistermagpie9290]

+Machete Bushcraft Australia No it wasn't too much of an essay, in fact, you gave a very clear and detailed answer, so thank you for that!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

+Bart Bogaerts Nice one mate! Happy I could help out a fellow bush crafter!

[@snakethepeg7828]

As much pressure as you'd use on a dodgy calculator... Brilliant

[@joshsimp1995]

My machete is shaving sharp, but has trouble carving wood

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

That's a really good question/statement Josh. I might try and keep this reply simple. I'm sure you can appreciate it's difficult for me to comment without looking and testing it out for myself. I will beat around the bush for a bit to see if I can help. First up, carving sharp and shaving sharp can be two different things. A fairly rough edge can shave hair but not carve very well. The micro serrations that are found on the edge for a given grit can catch the hair enough for them to be cut. That can happen at a fairly coarse grit and with/without a wire edge. That coarse edge many not perform very well with carving. The edge angle will have an effect as well. If it's to thick, it's not going to carve well. Without know what sharpening equipment you have, It sounds like your almost there to be honest. I would suggest a micro bevel in 1200/1500grit then strop the edge. I hope that helps mate. All the best, Ben

[@joshsimp1995]

@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia it does, i will get a strop, and a higher grit stone, the highest grit stone i have is 1000, soon i can carve, thank you

[@Bad_m340i]

what is "the bush"?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Hello Omair! 'The bush' is just a term Australian's use for the countryside or forest. I'm guessing the reason for using a different name but our landscape is quite different to the northern hemisphere. It feels far too harsh to call it a forest and calling it the countryside sounds a little too much like the rolling hills in England. We do have it all though. Rainforests all the way to bone drying deserts. All the best mate, Ben

[@milesmurphy4329]

gr8 video

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Thanks for the complement! All the best mate.

[@tina11ys]

Dodgy calculator button haha classic!

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I was thinking about that a few days before trying to find something universal....from memory, I came up with that answer on the spot... Hey I think it works!

[@tina11ys]

+Machete Bushcraft Australia that's a pretty cool illustration and mind picture and hey you know what you've made me go out and buy a cheap cane knife to hone my sharpening skills (pun intended)

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Nice one! The whole point of this YT series is to inspire people to have a go. I really like the cane knives as generally they are thin and easy to sharpen. We use them regularly in the veggie garden for big cleanups and mulching for the compost. If they easier to sheath, I would be using them a whole lot more around the farm. I hope you enjoy using it! All the best, Ben

[@tina11ys]

+Machete Bushcraft Australia Thanks mate yeah cane knives are just a bit bulky ay but handy nevertheless but yeah you guys are pretty inspirational thanks

[@duartemonteiro2452]

Hello,so you are australian right?, can you do me a favor?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I will do my best mate but what did you have in mind?

[@duartemonteiro2452]

Machete Bushcraft Australia Can you say hi to Mick Dundee, for me?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Hahah that's easy mate, he is my Uncle!

[@duartemonteiro2452]

Machete Bushcraft Australia and tell him to mail me his knife. or else donk gets it

[@duartemonteiro2452]

Machete Bushcraft Australia thank you, for being cool about this

[@demo2952]

Take a bastard file and a tiny diamond stone

[@viseshseernam39]

best way but both must relative new or else it does not works

[@ANCIENTARTS1]

Um Um Um 🙏

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Cheers mate! Thanks for the comment.

[@johnniecameron8829]

WAL-MART HAS A 8$ DECENT STONE,,if you have access

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

There are some good stones out there at cheap prices. You don't have to spend through the nose to sharpen your gear but knowing which ones to pick up is helpful. The US market is far more competitive so it is even better for you all over there. Currently my favourite is a double sided axe puck. I like the Bear Brand (which is Norton/St Gobain) but other makers are also good. It's a bit bigger than the pocket stone I used in this clip but it's softer (cleans itself better as machetes are often quite dirty) and the dual grit makes the sharpening process go a little faster.

[@simonhawker9277]

Arkansas is pronounced arkansaw good vid

[@MikeSmith-OU812]

You are a long winded fella aren't ya lolol

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

hahahah! Mate, I Have been told I can 'talk under water with a mouth full of marbles' ! I'm working on changing that it in the clips. I love a good chat but keeping clips under 10 mins is a challenge. All the best Mike, Ben

[@MikeSmith-OU812]

Hahahaha,thats funny ! Keep putting out the good vids Ben :)

[@agyemanboaten4385]

He'll if you talk sense you may talk forever and we will listen. Very informative. Thanks!

[@johnniedement4358]

You wouldn't have much of a video without talking,talk all you want my friend,it's your video,and there's always going to be jerks bumping their gums talking down about everything,especially what they know nothing about. Good show btw!

[@johnniecameron8829]

The barber stropes with some force ,,not gental strokes

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

That's a good point! You can't make an ultimate statement any more as there are always exceptions. Most of the barbers I have seen use a combination of slight pressure strops as well as feather weight strokes. This clip is quite old now but If I remember correctly, I would have made that point in response to the many stropping clips around that time where people feather weight stroke their camping knives and tools. I'm planning another stropping clip in the near future where I discuss this a little more. How much pressure you can use is much more dependant on what strop material you choose. All the best mate, Ben

[@pablosixtyseven5028]

um....awesome ......um....ahhh.......shoppening.......... ahh........ video

[@ezrahann3438]

Your machete looks gum up severly. You should clean then yea?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Cleaning your machete after use is really important. Machetes get gunky very fast but it can get out of control if you don't regularly scrub them at the end of the day. Rust builds up under the gunk as well. What you can see on those machetes is the natural patina that has developed over years of use. It may look gunky due to the pattern but It's actually very clean. Turps or WD40 with #000 steel wool clean the gunk off fast while leaving most of the patina behind. You can also use a scotchbrite pad to clean the gunk and rust but that will remove the colour off the steel. I like the pattern to be honest.

[@johnniecameron8829]

DIAMOND STONES DON'T LAST VERY LONG ON HARD STEEL ,,THE DIAMOND CHIPS FALL OUT OF THE TOOL ,BETTER FOR CERAMIC BLADES

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Now that is an interesting statement johnnie. I'm guessing but I think you might be getting mixed up with the quality of the diamond stones. The cheap ones don't perform very well at all and yes, they don't last. As far as lasting the test of time on very hard steel, sharpening carbide lathe tooling is about at tough as it gets. That pair of little hones I used in that clip are still being used today and they have not lost their grit. They live next to the lathe as they are a useful size for sharpening small carbide and hss tools but, they are the same ones I grab when I go bush to keep my tools tipped up. I don't expect them to last forever but I can comfortably say, they have been used and abused for many years and are still going. That is not a bad run for such a small tool in my opinion. Thanks for the input Johnnie. All the best, Ben

[@dwightstewart7181]

Do you lack modern tools in Australia? You know, things like sharpening tools, bench grinders, belt sanders, belt strops for those belt sanders, and so on. You could sharpen a blade or two far quicker than one of your long-winded videos. Lol.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Good lord Dwight, that's a very interesting perspective you have there. I don't often bother with the vapid and low-rent style comments, but your verbal has scraped a new low... and it genuinely intrigues me!? For me, being surprised by someone's opinions does not happen all that often anymore so... very well done mate! Since you took the time to put your 'thought' out there, indulge me while I have a little fun in retort. It's a FIELD SHARPENING demonstration. It's how one could keep their tool sharp while working away from a workshop. Please excuse the all caps, I was not yelling. I just needed to make sure you didn't miss it, in much the same way you clearly missed all the mentions of it in this whole clip. To further that, not everyone has powered sharpening equipment. I could keep expanding on this six ways from Sunday, but I think you're smart enough to see where I'm going with this Dwight? Do I really need to spell it out for you step by step? As far a being long winded, guilty as charged. You're on the money. I know that intimately and to be honest, I'm at peace with it Dwight. I can still help you though (I will always help a brother out!). Given the wonders of modern technology, you have a tremendous amount of authority and power, right at your fingertips. If you look down below, you have a tool bar with all the video controls. You also have Icons to thumb down content as well as a Subscribe and Bell button of which you're free to pass over. You even have the option to leave intelligent comments and criticisms. I do know you already have the smarts to thumb some words together and form complete sentences, but has no one ever mentioned that you need to run you thoughts through the 'Is this really dumb?' filter before you share you morning ablutions with the world? I hope you don't mind, but can I screen shot your comment and use it in a future video? I don't often attract comments like yours, but I think a 'Snappy answers to Troll comments' video would be fun to make. You might even enjoy it! On a side note while I drop the rant, Are you just having a bad day mate? I am a firm believer in always offering a ear to any bloke that needs a chat. In general, men don't talk enough to each other. I have often found that when grown men forget their manners and behave in an antisocial fashion, they generally are suffering somewhere in their lives. Sometimes an ear can be all the difference. Either way mate, it's been emotional. All the best from OZ Dwight, Ben

[@dwightstewart7181]

@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia .. God, even your comment replies are long-winded. Do you really think we have time for all that?

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Oh I'm sorry Dwighty, did I use to many big words in my reply and now you're struggling? I'm honestly surprised as American’s usually play a much bigger and more robust game than you. Your Troll Kung-Fu is really lame brother... but this is fun, yes? “do you think we all have time for that?” I'm certain you don't understand how stupid that comment really is. Dwighty, you chose to be here!? All by yourself, nobody forced you. You seriously could be anywhere, but you chose this. You had control to watch or not watch a clip, you had control to be here or not, and now your trying to tell me how I should be or not be. Do you normally try and control the people around you in some narcissistic fashion, or are you just trying to score points off strangers while you attempt to fluff your own deflating ego.... How is it working out for you so far? What you clearly don't have any control over is yourself. Do you even read what you write or does it just spill out on the keys? You must have missed (Again, this is becoming a habit for you Dwighty) the bit about running your thoughts through the 'not so smart' filter before you speak. I'm reaching here but did you try this kind of behaviour in your neighbourhood and failed as miserably as you're now failing with me? Do you try this bullying tactic often with other people? Did you think it would be easier down here in the little leagues? Now, I might offer a suggestion. Doubling down after getting your hat handed to you is not a very successful strategy. Try something else this time. It's Swing & Miss X 2 for you Dwighty. Is it three misses and you drop the bat, bow your head and walk off the plate? Oh I should add, props to you mate. I half expected you to just delete these messages after that serious burn... You got no game what so ever, but you're still here. Thanks for the laugh brother!

[@dwightstewart7181]

@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia .. Okay, if you want an argument, I'll give you one. First, I obviously have no idea what you're going to say until I watch the video. How am I supposed to know you're going to ramble on and on? Second, my examples included both field and shop tools. Yes, my first and last sentences were a bit sarcastic (meant in humor, hence the "lol" afterwards), but not enough to warrant your many paragraphs in reply. You need to grow up and stop acting like a butthurt little girl. This isn't worth the stupidness you've shown. Have a nice day, and good-bye.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Aww, come on Dwighty... no need to run off now. We can still be friends!! Maybe I should not have given you debate advice. You were actually doing much better by saying less. The more you talk, the more holes you poke in your own keyboard ramblings. FYI we are not having an argument. I am teasing a woeful troll and you're scrambling trying to keep your ego intact... Well at least I was, I suspect you're starting to regret beginning this conversation by being arrogant and condescending. I hope you don't treat other people like this Dwight. It's poor form to be honest. I can handle it just fine, but you're never going to make nice friends with such behavioral choices. First up, me talking under water was never in dispute. Right from the start, I gleefully agreed with you. Why did that form the basis of your sad third attempt at sharing your antisocial attitude with a complete stranger? Did you not read your original comment? You wrote it, Dwight. Your main criticism was around hand sharpening vs power grinding. Your inability to read: your own original criticisms, my retort, the title of the clip, The clips description as well as pick up on the numerous obvious examples of this being a FIELD SHARPENING METHOD....well is that really anyone else’s responsibility other than your own (rhetorical)? Are you also seeing the clear and obvious pattern in your behaviour Dwight (That is also rhetorical..no need to respond mate)? Now on to your choice of words.. ah yes, sarcastic. I'm not sure you understand what sarcasm really is, because you have not employed any as yet. You were quite clearly just trying to be condescending. Big difference Dwighty. I think you can do far better than 'butt-hurt' and 'little girl'. All the American's I know have the sharpest wit. Do I have this wrong or did you just miss that class growing up? First up it's 2020 brother, we don't need to use females as a lesser term. Real men don't need to go there. Men and women walk side by side in support of each other, not in competition. As far as butt hurt, I thought we were having fun, well I still am anyway. Best bit of advice an old timer gave me was 'If you can't say anything nice, keep your mouth shut'. That advice was freely shared with me Dwight and I'm still learning it to be honest. You're more than welcome to share in that lesson mate. Can we still be friends?

[@adamgreene831]

"ARKANZAS" lol its pronounced "ARKENSAW" and spelled Arkansas

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

I can't believe I have not come across this yet! I think you can appreciate that the rest of the West does not learn the US states. I have come across both and always assumed they were two different states or 'Arkensaw' was referring to a town or city in the state. Now as far as the name of the sharpening stones, I have only ever come across the 'Arkansas' pronunciation. Have we all been getting this wrong or has it become more or a brand name? A lot of people my age and older would have come across these pre-internet so maybe it's the cause of the error? I just checked on wiki and apparently the pronunciation was fixed in 1881 and these stones would have been quarried well before that debate. Regardless, thanks for the correction Adam! Kind regards, Ben

[@adamgreene831]

Machete Bushcraft Australia well now you know buddy. keep up the good work

[@samnelson4975]

Actually, when nobody is looking, we spell it Arkansaw!

[@garychandler4296]

We all shall attemp to decipher the Aussie and Britons strange cryptic language, predominantly in vain, to our bitter chagrin...

[@Slippindisc]

Arkansas: Are-can-saw not R-Kansas lol

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Ah yes, this comment comes up every now and then! Forgive me, I first learned the name from reading about sharpening techniques (before the internet was a thing). On a side note, are they called 'are-can-saw' stones? I looked into the history and longstanding argument regarding the towns pronunciation but forgot to look up how they pronounce the stones.

[@Slippindisc]

Machete Bushcraft Australia well, Arkansas is a state in the US. And while i know it looks just like Kansas with an “are” added to it, the S is always silent. I don’t know anyone in the US who pronounced it the way you did, and I believe that translates over when you’re referring to the stone. I was just flipping you some shit though, no harm intended. ✌🏻

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

You're all good mate! I got thick skin and I did see the humour in it. On a side note, I think both humour and not taking yourself too seriously is humbling. Besides, we need to keep the US and AUS banter going. There may not be many of us, but we are still your cousins that spell things a little differently.

[@Slippindisc]

Machete Bushcraft Australia I have a lot of love for my Dingo brothers! US, Canada, you guys, we are all cut from the same cloth.

[@ezrahann3438]

Real Machetes are not suppose to be razor sharp.

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Actually that is incorrect Ezra. How sharp your machete (or any cutting tool) is depends on three main points: the intended task, your ability to sharpen and the ability of the tool to take and hold an edge. Every now and then I hear this comment pop up and it tends to come from a few different perspectives. Some people don't have access to real machetes that can actually hold an edge or have never been shown how to sharpen properly. Others just don't know any better. Probably the simplest example I could give is that you can rough sharpen a knife and use it as a box cutter and prybar. You can take that same knife and put a wire edge on it to dress up a fish. That same knife with a proper sharp edge will carve and craft. A machete is just a big knife and you get to decide what edge you want to put on it. If you need a demolition tool, you can sharpen it on concrete. If you're prepping food or cutting green veg material in the garden, a wire edge is easily done with a file. If you're carving and crafting with a machete, it will benefit from a razors edge.

[@collectorbob810]

this runs on for 13 minutes before he ever get to sharpening anything

[@MacheteBushcraftAustralia]

Thanks for the comment Bob! Even the criticisms are more helpful than you may realise. I must admit, it can be difficult to gauge how much information to share as you will inevitably come across people who want less. Some people need more. Some people want a chat and some don't. Thanks for taking the time to share your opinion. All the best, Ben