MACHINE SHOP TIPS

[@keithschwartz7318]

Don’t know how this came up after 10 years, but it does bring back many memories. The foundry was probably my favorite area when I was teaching. Even my most uninspired students were impressed with this process.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍

[@Backhoebb]

My high school has no such classes, I saved all summer and bought a mill and lathe, now I'm learning machining from you. Thank you Mr Peterson

[@mrpete222]

Great purchase--keep watching

[@daleburrell6273]

rob lockwood GOOD FOR YOU-!!!

[@robrussell5911]

That’s great. I did the same in my thirties, I wish I had started earlier. It’s just fascinating and I’m amazed at how many things I’ve been able to make or repair. You are on a good path, there is so much to learn. I wish you the best young man.

[@thisissoeasy]

Great video, as usual! So concise and to the point, yet loaded with many tips and tricks. - I wish I had a teacher like you in high-school...

[@ckvasnic1]

Thank Mr. Pete. Great show. The parting was very helpful. All the best. Chuck.

[@agassizbeekeeper]

Thank you for another great learning experience.You're a great teacher. Thank goodness for youtube so you can expand your classroom. Most of my working life has been spent looking at the world through a #10 filter but a fortunate accident that cost me a broken shoulder about 16 years ago landed me in a machine shop brcause they didn't have anyplace else to put me at the time. But the time spent there whetted a thirst for knowledge that only youtube and fine instructors like have been able to fill. Keep putting those videos out there!

[@mrpete222]

THANK you very much. You are very encouraging and I'm glad my videos helped you. MUCH more to come.

[@mrpete222]

+GodToldMeTo THANK YOU!!

[@ArrowXDesign]

You make it look easy! I can't wait to see part 2.

[@aj9270]

Can't wait to see part 2 ! Thank you for another interesting video Mr. Pete !

[@holton345]

I enjoyed both parts of this one, sir. Excellent work!

[@mrpete222]

Awesome, thank you!

[@tomherd4179]

What casting I do around my shop I learned from books I bought off eBay. I was waiting to see how you were going to remove the wheel from the sand. You did it as I guessed. I might have set my gate to intersect with one of the spokes, as I usually worry about getting a complete fill. Enjoy watching your videos and learning more each time. Thanks, Tom

[@douglassmith2055]

I have learned enormous amounts from watching your many videos. I really enjoy how you go about communicating your tips and tricks. I would like to suggest regarding the use of plastic on the Bridgeport that it is done very deliberately, and perhaps for good reason. The downward had feed on most vertical mills use a series of gear reduction to move the quill. The tiniest of gears are at the end where the hand wheel is. This gear and the bearings it runs in are fairly delicate. The heavy weight of a hand wheel if used will wear and damage this gear set in a similar way as heavy keys hanging from your ignition will wear your ignition lock on your car. Thank you again for the many useful videos...Doug

[@stanbrow]

Thanks for generating the playlists. Really helpful.

[@mrpete222]

I am glad it helps you

[@arborvitian]

I don't believe in glue for plastic either, but I was desperate when the tail of my coat snapped off my turn signal stalk. I used Permatex Plastic Welder, and even though it was a repair in a high stress, heavy use area, it actually held for about 15 years. When I finally junked the car, the repaired turn signal was still fine. I'm sold.

[@mrpete222]

Someone glues are really strong

[@renbooth4147]

so much to learn. the more video's you upload the more we learn. thanks for sharing.

[@ChimeraActual]

Oh, jeeze, you bring back my pattern making days -- long ago. But, wait! You're not going to wax it? Gotta account for shrink, you know. Ha! Never mind, It'll work just fine a few thou smaller... No more pattern makers anymore, it's all billet, CNC, and sell the scrap.

[@hdoug5]

love the videos, you are one awesome teacher Mr. Pete :)

[@geneelliott3230]

Mr Pete I have a method to make it easier to mold things with a weird or hard to mold parting line. I add enough sand into flask to reach the parting line then I place a sheet of kitchen plastic wrap over the sand add some parting dust and place the pattern, pushing the pattern in to firm up the sand under. Then I riddle in some facing sand and proceed ramming as usual. When the flask is flipped over I carefully lift out the plastic wrap and sand, this should get you down to the parting line! Put on the cope dust parting powder and finish ramming as normal. Yes a bit fiddily but the trick does work. Try it some time and like welding or other shop skills it takes a bit of practice. Cheers Gene

[@mrpete222]

thanks Gene-- That's a net idea, I shall give it a try sometime.

[@JFW1]

Keep posting more videos. I always learn a lot of handy information.

[@kerrywil1]

another woderful evening watching your videos

[@thatsmethistime]

Tubalcain, you make such beautiful / helpfull videos. Thanks a lot. Our son is learning in a work shop right now.

[@nodariel]

Can't wait for part 2!

[@paulreider]

Great video Mr. P, thanks for sharing...

[@Fierofreak01]

Thanks for another informative and interesting video. -Jason

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great detail. Great video. Thank you for sharing.

[@MaturePatriot]

We did everything but make castings in our high school machine shop. I love watching an artisan at his craft.

[@davedigs]

great job cant wait to see how it comes out

[@oldSawyer]

Just a suggestion for when you scrape out the sand around the outside of the handwheel and feather back the edge for the parting line if you make more of these. It wouldn't be that hard to make a scraper blade with the handwheel radius and draft angle cut in it so all you have to is scrape around the outside edge of the old handwheel (pattern) without having to guess where the centerline is on it. Excellent video by the way.

[@mrpete222]

Good idea--never thought of.

[@madaboutpix]

another great video!! i agree that BP should have made the handwheels out of aluminum or cast iron.

[@geoffgwyther7269]

Just a thought borrowed from the brick laying trade adapted to youyr use as follows. To scrape away the sand to an exact and constant depth, Take a piece of half inch square timber , in your case about 15" long tap a small nail through the centre, allowing the point to come through the same amount as half the thickness of the wheel. Place point down with the wood sliding over the edges of the drag and move in a circular motion to loosen and displace the sand. Ocasionally blow clean. This will give you an exact and flat base wherever the nail moves. Primitavely simple but compared to a spoon, incredibly accurate. Keep up the good work, Beats watching rubbish TV any day.

[@mrpete222]

Good idea

[@roberthorner8494]

I AGREE ABOUT THE GLUES. MARINE TEX COMES CLOSE. GREAT VIDEO

[@willford8475]

Really interesting, I haven't seen this done before.

[@Mentorcase]

A magnet would have lifted the wheel out of the sand nicely. Zinc makes a nice casting too with some good weight to go with it.

[@ronkluwe4875]

Lyle; Thanks for another great video. Not that it means diddly for what you are making here, but will the final piece be about 1% to 2% smaller than the original wheel due to aluminum shrinkage during casting? I have a bunch of Starrett shrink rules and I know the double shrink rules are used for when a metal master piece is to be made from a wooden mold piece, and then the final parts to be cast from the metal master. Just wondering to see if I understand this correctly. Regards; Ron Kluwe

[@mrpete222]

Yes is smaller about 3/32 per foot of shrinkage

[@aserta]

I know everyone might try to tell you all the stories about glue. But from experience formed across varied types of uses... paper, metal, plastic, leather, textiles and wood ...each glue has it's uses or better said, each material need it's special glue. If you buy any glue that says "and this can be used to glue wood, metal, plastic etc" then that's the problem. It's a generic glue. My most recent endeavor with glue is rubber. I had to restore an almost centenary Russian made oscillating wood planer. It had a split rubber sleeve. Before i even dared touch that rubber sleeve, i tested 9 different types of glue, until i finally settled on a custom made glue that i had to order. IN conclusion to the text wall, you can't expect a glue to perform, and by glue i mean any compound that stick two items be they identical or different in make, to work if it's not the appropriate one. The hand wheel most likely had a small extra cylinder on the hand side that was reduced to that surface we see now. Another KZbinr here did a hand wheel for a vise he made. That's how he did it. That way you don't damage the hand surface on the exterior of the wheel. I really love the playlist format. It's easy to access when i want a quick tip. Wish the other guys i follow would do something similar, but hey, to each his own, right? Your casting method makes things soooooo much more easier than i've probably seen anyone do before. You, have to be some kind of wizard of casting, because there's fluidity in each move you did.

[@robertmalsbury8477]

When will you upload #159 or part 2? Bob

[@robcrawford9657]

Awesome! what is the black sand you sift around the pattern? is it just the same as the other sand only sifted? Tadaaa! just like magic!

[@kepamurray1845]

I know exactly what you mean about the Bridgeport handwheel. My machine is sadly lacking for the sake of just a few dollars more. I would like to cast one also. It is incredibly hard to procure this item in Australia. With regards to the small minded individual leaving his opinion, I will suggest that you know how to deal with this kind of person. Keep up the good work with the videos Mr P.

[@krazziee2000]

Another great video, thanks.

[@joemansell4216]

Is it best to have chipped swarf safety wise or just in general for a nice finish and less heat generated?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi mrpete, I've been interested for some time in casting, looking how you do it, seems very doable in front of my home garage, just don't want to disturb my neighbors too much with the noise. Would you consider the furnace to be quiet enough to meet this criteria? Keep on going, I love all this stuff, Pierre

[@mrpete222]

The noise is a low rumbling for 20 min duration. Nobody has complained yet. But there are some pretty intolerant people in this world.

[@killerkane1957]

Mr. Pete, I hate to bother you. Do you know where one might find a adjustment crank for a 7" Atlas shaper? Your videos are great!

[@mrpete222]

+KillerKane No--Thanks for watching

[@3jjw]

Nice video! why didn't you put the sprue in the center of the handle?

[@Patroand]

Thanks to you Mr.Pete

[@mrpete222]

+Robert Patoine Thanks for watching

[@phooesnax]

Really great. Thank you!

[@tonyemory3618]

Mr Pete i have been watching your videos for quite some time now, I greatly appreciate you sharing your experiences with all of us along with your sometimes overly detailed explanations ( reminds me of my grandfather) No offense intended it is a complement. Personally i have been trying my hand at manufacturing my own parts for riding lawn mowers specifically the older ones to which finding parts are so difficult. I have ran into a problem that maybe you can help with. I have a particular part that due to its size and shape it has allot of extra aluminum on it and you guessed it shrinkage is a large issue. Currently i am using homemade green sand that is water based, This weekend i am going to try and make some that is oil based. Do you think oil based sand will help with my shrinking issues or am i doing something else wrong. Any advice would be helpful Thank you and keep the videos coming i never get tired of watching them.

[@mrpete222]

Tony Emory The type of sand has nothing to do with the shrinkage

[@tonyemory3618]

Thank you, I tried to make some green sand it didn't turn out so good with the oil i started a fire instead. Anyway decided to just bite the bullet so to speak and order some petrabond along with a decent sand muller i know my castings will come out much smoother with commercial grade sand, Should have done that sooner but im cheap and if there is a way to DIY it so to speak i will try that first.

[@mrpete222]

Tony Emory Great-you will like the sand

[@ops12able]

Tony Emory In the castings bids I have watched, they make the casting slightly bigger, or have reservoirs for extra metal.

[@gbowne1]

Congrats on 361 videos :-) 4 more to go to the 365.. 1 video a day.

[@khawk7365]

What software do yo edit your videos with? I am looking for best way to edit videos. Thanks

[@mrpete222]

Power director 13

[@khawk7365]

Thanks for fast reply

[@bigstuff52]

Good videos-Do they still teach machine shop in high schools? Not much need for it anymore with the US being a nation of scrapers and cashiers.

[@mrpete222]

+john james not much anymore

[@bigstuff52]

Thanks for replying-When I took my first machining class in high school in 1968, they had four industrial arts teachers. A little over twenty years ago they pulled it all out except for woodshop. Don't really know why they kept wood-maybe to teach kids how to build boxes to put the scrap in going back to China. I'll let it go now. Just venting about the sad state of affairs in this country. Again'I enjoy your videos.

[@mrpete222]

+john james We had 8 shop teachers when I started teaching in 67. Now there are 4 & no mach shop

[@leeknivek]

i started in trade school in 2007, high school - 2006 was the last year for the machine shop. it was replaced with "retail management". later, last year, actually, i work in construction now, and i helped build the new tool room for a local college, full of mostly brand new machines - manual and cnc. the trade school was across the street from this college. i really don't get it

[@mrpete222]

So true

[@djtheg6819]

This is exactly what people do in china when making copy's of just about anything. The problem you have when taking a finished part and using it as a pattern is that there is no account for the shrinkage rate. It wont make to much of a difference on a hand wheel, but for other parts it would. All patterns start off as larger than the finished product to take into account the shrinkage of the metal as it cools.

[@mrpete222]

All very true. I cover this concept of shrinkage and many of my foundry videos

[@craigdempsey2230]

Your fingering of the rim is astonishing!

[@xull1x123]

Thank you for this!

[@gunsmith549]

We case things in High school shop class. Now all that equipment is gone, sold at auction for almost nothing

[@mrpete222]

Its sad-Thanks for watching!

[@manden22]

You sound just like johnny cash!

[@mrpete222]

lol

[@1232sean]

Nevermind the trolls Mr. Pete

[@frac]

This isn't related to this video, but I knew you'd be interesed. It's some pictures from an upcoming auction of amazing toy steam engines! boingboing.net/2014/04/15/beautiful-steam-powered-mechan.html

[@walkertongdee]

UH, glues are not for metal.that's welding as you probably know.

[@prplezard]

I would agree, but then we would both be wrong. 3M makes panel bonding adhesive.

[@2aklamath]

I have never seen any one use one of these LOL

[@mrpete222]

+T.S. True sportsman Thanks for watching

[@ArionRaine]

TubalCain, while you do know a bit about the machine shop trade, your comment about adhesives is just straight up peckerhead!! Its not the adhesives fault. You are either choosing the wrong adhesive, or not following directions. I dont care how long you have been around, your not doing something right. I have personally, and many others in industry have used the very adhesives you are referring to, for the purposes you are attempting to use them for, without issue. Heck, most modern cars use a LOT of adhesives in their construction. Entire body panels, and some structural members are fastened with adhesives. You mentioned epoxy specifically. Did you know that almost the entire chassis assembly of modern F1/IRL type race cars are assembled using noting other than epoxy?

[@ChimeraActual]

Speaking of peckerheads... No glue available when the handle broke would have repaired it so that it would be structurally sound. The available epoxys wouldn't, they just didn't bond to that type of plastic. Eastman 910 would bond, but wouldn't be durable. You'd need a space age UV cured glue to do it today. and it still wouldn't be as good as new. Sure those race cars are glued together, with lots of bonding area/moment arm, the opposite of his problem. Why don't you just try to learn something instead of showing your childish ignorance?

[@CPTCleoTorris]

Molding spoon? You mean slick :) Also you should cut a well under your sprue and a proper sprue cup on top (curved with one flat side) then the runner should go outward on both sides of the circumference of the wheel before feeding the casting, (Avoid the direct flow) this will reduce turbulence that will create porosity and\or could carry in loose sand. Also no riser? it would be placed probably over the center hub or two along the wheel sides. Good video. Brings back memories :)