Machining an ER32 collet chuck to fit my WARCO Lathe

[@barryjohnyoung6561]

Hi just bought Chinese mini lathe taken several weeks to get the tolerances somewhere near. Limited funds, Thank you for a brilliant set of videos learning a lot. I’m starting your videos from the start. I’m fascinated by your DRO THAT A LONG WAY OFF. don’t worry about the nob head there’s always some one that like to pick fault. Keep it up Barry

[@ade63dug]

Barry John . now there is a heroic Welsh name . Good luck with it and I take no notice of the critics mostly unless they have a good point to make . Cheers Ade.

[@johnfry9010]

These are the sort of projects that keep me awake at night .

[@woodscreekworkshop9939]

That dial indicator looks like it went to hell and back multiple times and still working. I sure like my Mitutoyo.😁

[@stroke88mm]

Clock a piece of bar at the largest diameter for your collets in the four jaw chuck, then you can put your collet chuck onto the bar using a collet. this should allow you to clock the surfaces and machine the register. You will also be able to remove the chuck and turn it round to check the fit. This worked for me.

[@gillian9178]

This was the way I also thought was the easiest way to do this job, wasn't sure if you would get any flex machining this way just holding on the collet. But it worked ok for you, taking light final cuts would reduce risk of flex.

[@gillian9178]

Yes if its to hard to machine it cant be done this way & would need an adaptor, it would still need a hole bored through the centre though.

[@melgross]

I would have turned the collet chuck into an adjustable back for concentricity. Drill another three holes between the ones that are there for mounting. The turn a steel circle the same as the outside diameter of the chuck base, 4 inches I think. Make that about .5” (12.5mm) wide and about 3.4” (20mm thick). Then drill and tap four holes around the side of the new piece, towards the center, and through, maybe 5 or 6mm. Attach that new part to the back of the chuck through the three holes you drilled, tightly. Then make a back piece to mount to the lathe back, closely fitting, with three drilled and tapped holes for the three holes on the chuck back, which go through the new attached part. Machine a 20mm, actually maybe 18-19mm thick on the face of the new back piece. When you put this whole thing on the lathe, have the three screws attaching the chuck and ring together snug, but not tight. Then using an indicator snug the four set screws on the side until it’s concentric. Then fully tighten the three screws holding the chuck to the new part. I know it sounds complicated. But it’s just two parts, and not that difficult. What you end up with is the equivalent of the mounting for a Buck Adjust-Tru chuck, or the Bison Set-Tru. I’m sure that if Adrian gas the time to read replies to older videos, he would agree. I’ve done this myself.

[@machiningbasics1729]

Just checked the face plate on the myford. Smug made in England face. Aha great video as usual !!

[@denniswilliams8747]

I gave gone throu the same thing with my lathe, I ended up making a referance mark on my spindle and chucks. I faced the plate as well. Your faceplate seems heavier than my Speed way. Thanks

[@STK2008STK]

Looking forward to part two of this. Thanks :)

[@dalekify]

I think that I would put a short bit of bar in the 4 jaw chuck. Skim a bit off to be certain that it's true. Leave it in and turn the collet chuck around and bung it on the now true bar with your tailstock. Skim off the od of the collet chuck to true it up with the collet centre. Same with the register. I think that I would make a back plate for it and not bother too much about the register. Just true it up with the bolts and then skim off the edges of the back plate and new collet chuck together. Then leave them like that. It's really easy to get bogged down. Many times I've thought something out and ended up doinf things in the wrong order and getting in deeper and deeper. Best of luck with it. I'm off to find part two:-)

[@Rolingmetal]

I would use a backplate. That way you can compensate for the spindle runout. And If you can't make it accurate make it adjustable. I don't think you need the register to keep things in place. Maybe upgrade from m6 to m8 or 10 bolts with a fine thread. Strange that they didn't bore out the hole in the collet chuck.

[@ade63dug]

that is the route i go down , eventually ,

[@frankinpattaya]

Abe, that collet chuck could you run it in a 4 jaw chuck and true it up, and use it that way,, I’m about to have the same problems when the Banggood ER40 gear get to my place,,regards Frank

[@henrylercherasmussen5763]

Hi Ades How much is/was the run-out on the MT3 spindle taper? Why not use a MT3 ER32 holder as well?

[@ade63dug]

spindle run out was 0.01 max . run out on mt3 collet holder was 0.05 internally to the mt3 , i will need to set up a toolpost grinder at some point and do both at the same time . Ade.

[@incubatork]

Why did you not use the tailstock to hold it central?

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Hi Ade, Still have to get a collet chuck for mine don't know what's stopped me :( TFS, G :)

[@gillian9178]

Ade how do you know that the already machined face of the collet chuck that will sit on the face plate is 100% square to the collet taper in the collet chuck.

[@ade63dug]

watch this space, i did some measurements , this job turns out to be a nightmare , and the whole thing was hardened, and it gets worse as time goes on ,

[@stroke88mm]

I should read to the bottom before making a comment, it appears you will need to use an adapter plate as well, if the chuck is too hard to machine.

[@ade63dug]

all comes to a head in next episode

[@adagook4]

Why you not make back plate about 25mm and drill 6 hole with tap

[@ade63dug]

back plate coming next

[@user-gi5cr2tt1c]

말씀이 참 많으십니다

[@carlmcferran9371]

What a load off waffle, we don’t need to know every little details of what you are doing. Just get on to the real details, stop waffling.