Machining my First Knife (the hard way)

[@littleshopofrandom685]

Gluey. :) I really am not fond of glue fixtures, but I am not sure I have much better ideas though for holding this. Bit small for vacuum, and the warping would be a big issue as well. 4 axis tab off milling might be the best choice cause you can rough and let it warm, them semi finish and finish to bring it back into shape. The printed fixture is an issue. I can see it moving and changing shape with moisture and heat. Prints move way more than you think they do. I think you'd need to mill an aluminium one to really be reliable.

[@MrPodging]

One of the problems with using 3d prints as fixtures is that they soften and deform when they heat up. It's not a problem if you're using flood coolant, but with just air blast and low feed I'm pretty sure that your part got quite hot.

[@AudacityMicro]

The jury is still out on what exactly happened here. I think the fixture moved at least a little, but in retrospect, the knife blade itself may have moved a little too as I removed material (due to internal stresses).

[@ToolTechGeek]

The design is very minimalist and elegant. I can imagine a knife enthusiast requesting to add some “gimping” notches to the top of the blade where it meets the handle. Also could pair well with a sheath of some sort (not sure if one could make a robust enough one with 3d printing materials)

[@AudacityMicro]

100% agree. The design definitely needs a little more fleshing out before it would be "sale ready". The ergonomics on the handle definitely need to be improved, some gimping would definitely help. I did 3D print a simple sheath off camera, but that also needs some iterations

[@precisioncomponentllc1820]

I have used bondo (body filler) to hold odd shaped parts. Works great. Super strong and parts don’t have to be flat on bottom. Needs overnight cure though.

[@samvandellen3695]

How are you liking the machine? I ran an 1100mx for a few years, and it looks worlds different in terms of fit and finish. Probing looks a lot better too.

[@AccuCoreCNC]

Great to see that you've recovered from the last video 😂. How have you found the 1500MX accuracy wise so far? The Tormach provided specs seem like a real downer at least on paper.

[@AudacityMicro]

Accuracy wise it's shockingly good. I haven't been able to measure any repeatability or accuracy issues on it. Basically all of my error comes from tool wear, or fixturing.

[@AccuCoreCNC]

@@AudacityMicro Sweet. They told me though that it's only rated for 0.00078" repeatability and 0.0013"/ft positional accuracy brand new. Any idea why that is?

[@poetac15]

@@AccuCoreCNCI wouldn’t expect better than that from a brand new haas vmc for what that’s worth. I’d rather they under claim and over perform vs the opposite.

[@yelims20]

A2 rocks!

[@AudacityMicro]

This time did go much better than last time 😅

[@joell439]

🌲🎄🌲

[@blazingmatty123]

28:45, with the tongue at the right angle anything is possible

[@AudacityMicro]

I did not realize how much I stick out my tongue while working until that time lapse 😂

[@blazingmatty123]

@@AudacityMicro that's the exact angle you want ;P if you don't realise you're doing it then that's the angle that makes thins work :P

[@Jbpipesandmufflers]

halway in de video now,. just wondering why you didnt grab the union skin in the vice and bent it. i do this with my 7075 skins and works well,. i cant imagin with these thin hardned steel skins it wouldnt work. this makes minimal efford and max results. still watch the sharp edges, but you can use plyers to bend it

[@AudacityMicro]

I think I was just afraid of the onion skin shattering and launching itself into me, at 60 Rockwell it's really brittle, and super sharp, so I was just being cautious.

[@Jbpipesandmufflers]

@AudacityMicro ow yes i understand.. something safety googles... but yeah when its thin enough it will bend. 60hrc can be brittle. But when its hardened and propperly relieved again(lost the english term) it should not shatter at that thin skin. To be extra safe you can hang a loose towel/rag over it and bend towards you. That way the shards if they pop off go away from you. And a loose rag will catch them safely. Little stupid question wich i cant figgure out. Im a total noob here compaired to you.. Im using fusion 360. And i am machining parts on a home made machine. So dont laugh. Milling machine is expensive as you know.. But. I have a drilled holes on the sides of my parts wich i cant do on my own cnc machine. So will use my drillpress. Now the question.. how can i center these holes with a ballmill from the side of the part without fusion saying no or the toolpath lifting up throuh my parts? I basicly want it to come in from the left touch it ( maybe 3thou deep) and go back to the left before it retracts in Z. .

[@AudacityMicro]

@Jbpipesandmufflers the easiest way is to draw the toolpath exactly how you want it in a sketch, and then use a trace toolpath. It's a little slow, but works very reliably

[@Jbpipesandmufflers]

@@AudacityMicro ahh. Thanks! Just tryed it and fusion finaly doesnt say no. Thanks for the quick help mate.

[@15andye]

Pretty high rpm for hard steel

[@AudacityMicro]

It seemed to work pretty well. I was getting good tool life and finishes.

[@justRD1]

A little bit of leather wrap or paracord on the butt and it would be legit.

[@AudacityMicro]

Yeah! That would definitely add some much needed grip