Mending my watch with prosthetics

[@SouthDev]

I love the prosthetic idea, reminds me of kintsugi, a Japanese thing where you add gold to broken ceramics as you repair it. Besides, the best design is always born out of necessity 😁

[@MachinistJack]

Nice, I like that 😃

[@ActiveAtom]

Oh lord you are too funny with that case, great to experiment utilizing those great machines along the way. You have a wonderful creative mind; it is enjoyable to see. Lance.

[@MachinistJack]

Thanks 😃 I decided to continue with the case instead making a new one because I will learn a lot and in the end I will have a very unique and special watch that I can wear when I'm making my next one 😃

[@stewanish]

Hi Jack you looked unhappy at the broken tap and more issues. Don't worry that's part and parcel of making things. If you're able to twist and turn at your issues, the design will look more promising and better. I'm like your drive to overcome things :)

[@MachinistJack]

Thanks 😃 The tap issue was probably the most devastating one so far, but I'm glad I didn't just made a new case and instead continued with the prosthetic idea, it turned out really cool 😃

[@Sara-t5y4k]

@16:23 😊

[@HM-Projects]

Nice prosthetic rescue. I have made the same mistake. I never hand tap without a spring loaded tap follower or better always use the milling machine for power tapping where possible. Shaky hands = broken taps.

[@MachinistJack]

My replacement taps will probably not be hand taps 👍 The holes were 1.5 mm instead of 1.6, so that contributed as well.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Jack, Nicely done. Enjoyable video, thank you. Take care. Paul,,

[@MachinistJack]

Thanks :-)

[@jamest.5001]

Question, why not make a copper cap to be soldered to the steel 'prosthetic' Just curious. A bit of copper bar could be drilled to fit snug on the steel. Use a bit of plumbing flux. Then use solder (possibly lead free) after the copper is attached then mill it to match the rest of the lugs. It may have a tiny line where the two parts meet. A crevasse possibly .0001"wide and at its deepest possibly .030" to .045" possibly only noticable if you are looking for the imperfection. Awesome work. A idea that may help next time, not Shure, it only just crossed my mind. Could you make the lugs separate pieces. Use a tiny steel pin and a screw to attach the lugs, much like the prosthetic only using a pin and screw. A m1 pin and a M2 screw , or make the lugs in pairs fitting using a shallow dovetail then use a screw or two to retain the lugs in the dovetail. It could make for some interesting design of watches. The imagination is the only limit! The copper and steel looks great together. Maybe make one with brass and nickel, copper and nickel, stainless, titanium, having a titanium body with brass lugs with a leather band. Or even a large chunk of carbon fiber, with a nickel it brass ring with the lugs on it. With a carbon fiber band . The band made of chain links. With brass bushings 3mm bushing with 1mm steel pins the bushings glued in with epoxy. The band about 4.5mm thick the body being 6-8 mm thick. A kinda oversized watch yet extremely light weight. After the band has all the bushings wet sand all the links with 1000-2000 grit paper, use a sonic cleaner to clean the paper, possibly using 320 grit to shape the carbon fiber links then 600 grit, and apply a top coat of epoxy. Maybe a gel coat and then the 1k to 2k grit and eventually buff and polish. Doing the main body the same way. The "Forged carbon fiber" would look great for this part. With the band having the traditional woven look. Using 5 x 8 mm and 3 x 5 mm bars of carbon fiber to make the band. With roughly 12-15 mm long links . With the corners rounded off greatly. With the edges only slightly beveled. I have a difficult time finding shoes and gloves, a long with a watch that will fit me. Most watch bands are too tight. I'm thinking a aluminum latch to fit the 35-45 mm wide band with a few aluminum spacer links to help make adjustments. A latch similar to a seatbelt using a bit of spring steel in the aluminum, the latch being on the tongue. Fitting into the receiver. Having a 2 x 20 mm groove about 12 mm deep. With a hole milled from the rear about 4 x 8 mm, with it being at a slight angle. So the latching female surface as it wears slightly still catches. The edge being about 85°{+/-} the tongue being 3mm thick with the center milled out square. To allow a aluminum or steel but to replace it it having a tab off one end and a hole for a 1 mm pin on the opposite. The tip of the tongue having the matching pin hole. With this part in the tongue, when placed in the receiver. The piece in the center having a spring to the tab on the opposite end to the pin. Causes it to catch in the square hole in the receiver. The receiver and the tongue part having parts that match the chain link pattern with added micro links and extra pins to adjust the size the pins being about 0.5 mm larger on the head end and threaded to screw into the bushings a 1.5,1.8 or M2 thread, {possibly a 1off thread} and using a tiny flat screwdriver to install with a tiny bit of wax to lube the bushings and even less thread locker. To prevent pins from falling out. Possibly using a hot aluminum bushing pressed on the -20° pins to hold the chain together. Or a tiny screw head with m1 threads fitting in from the opposite side or make the links in H and I bits to allow a pin to hold it together. The bushings require because the carbon fiber would destroy even tool steel pins in only months of normal wear, they would be loose in just a week or two of wear. It's like using sand paper for bushings ! At a minimum a tool steel pin, with cold rolled steel bushings , or stainless bushing. With the pins having a snug fit low slop and friction , easy to fit. Dip the pins in molten wax , and allow to drop off. Remove excess. This should allow for all the lube requirements. Preventing wear. And shouldn't needs oil. And tiny oilite bushing could be made, but would they glue in. It would possibly be best to glue in bushings as a long solid bar, in a wide bit of material, then cut into links with tgr bushing having a shallow thread or rings milled into the outer diameter. With the links sanded to shape , plug the bushings, coat with epoxy and polish after sanding. Possibly coat or plate the aluminum. Copper then a thick nickel to go with the carbon would look great. The tab ring the same and give it a extra fine brushed finish. Or polish to a mirror, either would look great, even a silver plate with polish. I like nickel!! With its size , it could be used to hold a normal watch inside😂.. i wish i at least had access to the equipment to mill and turn to make such things. I have thought many times about making a crude lathe and mill(Bridgeport or universal style) just to have equipment to make a better set of equipment. I would want to use a DC motor . Start with a 1000 watt DC motor 36-48 or 60vdc, then used the big 6.6kw forklift motors I have possibly set the lathe and mill up to be similar to the line shaft driven equipment from the1800's and early 1900's to allow a single motor to power both machines. Possibly use a timing belt from a car. With the lathe mounted Behind the mill. With the motor , controller, and power supply , I have 4, 2450watt 240vac to 12.5v power supplies, in series making 50v DC , at 9800 watts total. Connect tfe power supply to a capacitor bank around 4-6 farad, to help with startup current. And supply steady power. Use a pre charge circuit, with a power light showing when it's on. The caps automatically power the relay when the voltage is reached. From charging through a resistor. Charging limited to around 10 amps or something. Using a 10k ohm resistor and a 1watt LED bulb to discharge the caps maybe a cooling fan also. It's going to run this for a while 5 farad is nearly a HAND FULL AAA BATTERIES. a .500 amp 48v fan and a LED running on basically a 1.2 ah 50v battery, it's going to run for a couple minutes. The 100 watt 1000 ohm charge resistor , with a zener diode and relay to power the contactor once the voltage divider shows the caps have reached 47.?? -50vdc. 47v to prevent it shutting off if a load pulls the voltage it's a safety built in. 6-7kw of series wound motor should be plenty for a lathe with 6" chuck, (6"+/- 2-3") and a universal style mill. Would be useful , a Bridgeport real cool. A horazonal with vertical attachment that would be cool too. I'd likely use car parts to build a lot of it. Use a car transmission (the gears ) to get the spindle speed correct. Use some 500-:100 watt permanent magnet DC motors I have for X, Y And Z motion. With ball screws a 12" x 26" table would be useful with a 250 rpm gear reduction with an additional 4:1 reduction , using a pwm speed controller, with adjustable .0001" per second to .005" sec. On normal to .050" 1.5" in second gear top speed.

[@GeorgeC.bladesmith]

I allways wonder, where on earth you can bought schaublin machines in that condition with that many accessories?

[@MachinistJack]

Most of the 102s I found on the internet had a lot of accessories (in Sweden and elsewhere in Europe). The one I bought is in good condition except for the ways are really really bad 😔