Machinist's Minutes: What angles does a train wheel need, and why?

[@coltjeremiah2014]

Howee is my hero. Such a cool guy

[@a-k-jun-1]

Ten years as a locomotive machinist, the flange width, height, and tread cupping depth are all regulated by the FRA. The tapers as Howie said keep the wheel set centered in the rails.

[@KikoValleyMan]

So much good information! Thanks Man!👍🏻

[@markvoluckas4571]

I appreciate all your videos, the train one have been particularly of interest lately as I have been gathering parts and designing an 18 inch gauge air powered locomotive to bring firewood from the woodshed to our sugarhouse, one thing I have been unable to find much on is how much flange clearance is normal. For example if my rails are 18 inch inside width should my wheel flanges be 17 1/2, 17 3/4 or even closer?

[@HOWEES]

Make sure you have coverage of the wheel over the rails plus a little more, if the wheels are full to one side. Normal is 3/8" to 1" total clearance. More movement, narrower wheelset, will let the tapers work on a gradual curve. Less movement, wider wheelset, will let the wheels go into flange guiding, with a less abrupt transition. If the track is mostly straight, with minimal curve, I would consider 17 1/4". Are you using steam style cylinders/crossheads? or a geared drive?

[@markvoluckas4571]

Thanks John, that's about what I figured, the wheels i have for tye cars are reproduction mine cart wheels with a face of about 1 3/8 so on 1 inch wide rail head was figuring about 1/4 to 3/8 would keep it on the whole width of the rail head still. It's more of a novelty than a heavy haul thing but who among us hasn't wanted their own train since they were a kid! And my original plan was to use a swing motor I had from an Erie steam shovel geared to the axle, but then decided if I was going to do the work of fake connecting rods anyhow I might as well use air cylinders which also have less leak by that the old erie steam shovel engine. So plan to do an actual crosshead and all, and since variable cutoff isn't as effective with air as steam due to it not expanding like steam, my plan is to control the left and right separately so that once it is moving can cut off one side and basically use half the displacement to save air. For the locomotive wheels I plan to flame cut them from some heavy plate I have then machine them in the lathe

[@pettingellhammer]

In a past video you mention the angle of the cutter is most important when turning things in a lathe. How do you adjust that angle if you have a quick change tool post ? Thanks in advance. ~ John B

[@HOWEES]

With our quick change tool posts there are screw adjustments to change the height of the tool holder (thus changing the geometry of where the cutter hits the circular part), so that is how we change the angle on ours. Without seeing your quick change post I can't say for sure. -Cameraman

[@dummy3333]

9:15 the flange and taper are not right on the drawing, must have been a brain fart

[@HOWEES]

I was thinking of the taper in one direction, then I drew the flange without thinking about which side it should be on, rather I just put it on the side I had it drawn in my solidworks file. So yes the taper is wrong for the flange as drawn.

[@BloatedBearucraticNightmare]

Train wheel tapers do the job a diff does in yer car