I Built a 3D Printed Hitbox Controller and YOU can too!

[@Spice__King]

Hey, tip for people. If you don't want to cut up a perfectly fine USB cable, there are some test pads on the bottom of the Pico that are the USB data pins and the close coupled ground for it. TP1 is that close coupled ground, TP2 is USB D-, TP3 is USB D+, and, as a bonus, TP6 is BOOTSEL if you want an external button for that to reflash.

[@MadModLabs]

@@Spice__King This is a good tip. I wish I had thought to include this information in the video. With some fine wire, soldering to those test points isn't too hard. Thanks for leaving a detailed comment!

[@Nimbuzz.]

oh man, thank you so much for the tutorial and free 3D file, it helped me so much since i can't design 3D stuff😅

[@HumanShield117]

I've actually started using hot-swap sockets for these sorts of builds. Just pushing them onto the switches, and then soldering. I use it so I can transfer electronics between iterations without having to do any soldering, but you could also use it to swap new switches. (Though you usually need to take the back off and hold it from both sides to actually get the new switches in place.)

[@apollolux]

I've been using quick disconnects on my custom joysticks for years. As long as the wire is crimped into the disconnect correctly the circuit is solid. It's usually the plug end that's really tightly held onto the button's switch that I have to worry about whenever I actually attempt to remove the wires.

[@inspectorrex351]

welcome back my bro. keep up the good work.

[@pelsinen]

Awesome video! Really nice and structured guide!

[@ewasteredux]

Another tip... if anyone is thinking about making this and does not have experience soldering, you might not want to mount the pico to the case before you have done the soldering. Prolonged proximity to the inner case can slightly warp the 3D printed thermoplastic if your iron is higher wattage. So, when soldering, you could insulate between the pico and the case with a standard drink coaster or something else non-conductive as a preventative measure..

[@samcreamer]

Well done, sir.

[@MrCrackowacko]

Really love the design!

[@ashjefferson5808]

This actually seems really straightforward im not an electronics guy but I've wanted a mix box forever and this seems doable

[@DimzNoms]

AMAZING video! You actually helped me breakthrough a roadblock in my own project!

[@_inigomontoya9835]

never soldered before but found this project simple and fun. Very good job.

[@DrKatz31]

guitars, fighting games, lack of skill? I finally found you, father. Edit, possible remix with 2 or 3 extra buttons?

[@MadModLabs]

LOL. I will be adding a few alternate layouts to the Printables page soon. I have been working on another request to add an UP button to the Hitbox layout. If you have something specific in mind, feel free to shoot me a message. I can't make the controller any wider without a full redesign that would require printing on a larger printer or printing in multiple pieces. However, adding buttons to the front or sides of the controller is usually pretty easy. Let me know what you need. I am happy to help.

[@Darkblitz9]

@@MadModLabs Not sure if I should make an acct to post a remix or not, but I made a version that is entirely big round buttons for funsies. Haven't wired it up but it feels good to hold! EDIT: Wired and functioning. It's actually great. I love the bigger buttons in comparison. All still printable on a smaller printer. Total width is ~250mm. Had to re-arrange some stuff but it came out awesome and works well!

[@TheJacksonTravels]

Great video and tutorial! 🕹️

[@TheMrR9]

I like PCBWay, used them for some CNC water blocks for a raspberry pi.

[@Juvination]

That being said I got it up and running! Was having some issues with the LCD screen, ended up not utilizing it which is a shame. That being said I haven't soldered anything aside from removing a battery from a gameboy cartridge so it took me quite a while! I look forward to using it in game!

[@Anklegator]

Very cool

[@yeehawmckickass]

I've finished three of these and I'm working on three more. Completed units are quite good. I've let multiple people try them and for compact the layout is exactly what people expect. There's one major gripe though, but I'll get to it. I'm also using hot swap sockets and Spice__King's method for USB connection. Also, ewasterdeux's tip about the heat is a big one. Even if you're experienced with soldering I'd still recommend doing as many connections to the Pico as possible outside the case. I realize that's really rough to do without any kind of wire length to work off of, so here's a less clean but more direct length list to get you started: USB Breakout direct wiring 195 mm for each wire. Length set for twisting while routing. Use the USB standard color guide as used in the video: White TP2 to d-, Green TP3 to d+, Black TP1 to GND, Red GP40 to Vbus. Directional buttons Up 90 mm Other Three 200mm Kick buttons A/X 115mm B/Circle 100mm RT/R2 100mm LT/L2 70 mm Punch Buttons X/Square 130mm Y/Triangle 130mm Rb/R1 120mm LB/L1 90mm Ground Loop 12x 65mm +/- 5mm between hot swap sockets. For the momentary switches, play that by ear since there's a ton of different ways you can wire your grounds for this. I also recommend completing your ground loop to two different ground points on the pico. This is a common technique used in actual arcade games and just adds some redundancy in case a wire happens to pop. Momentary Switches 300mm per non-ground switch, measured to allow for twisting. Again, these lengths won't route your wires as nicely in the video, they're just a starting point to work off of. Speaking of the Momentary Switches, these are the big gripe. The ones linked in the description are low quality, mushy to the touch, and probably the single hardest thing to work with in the project. They make me want to design a PCB assembly to completely replace them. The best way I've found of working with them so far is to print a switch riser, put all five of them into the riser, solder the non-ground wires to them, feed everything wire first through the main shell, then loop the washer and nut over the wire to pin them in place. You'll have to do the ground loop in the case.

[@Realyst]

Might try this but use a Brook universal board instead. Might cut the Pico stand offs off. Also, might try to add another thumb button to the right of the jump button. But I'm new to 3d printing so who knows if I can pull this off or not.

[@ProjectLM_]

I've been wanting to get into Mixbox style controllers and 3D designing/printing, this is perfect! I love the version with WASD, jump button, and screen. I have a few questions since I want to try experimenting with the design to learn to add: 1) Changing the keyboard switches to hotswap sockets? Would love to use different switches without desoldering every time. 2) A USB-A port for the GP2040-CE to support dongles for use with PS5, like the Magicboots v1.1 or a Mayflash Magic-S Ultimate? Maybe a USB-A port mounted externally, but I'd be more interested in having something that can be mounted inside the case to keep everything compact. 3) A top plate with rimless buttons / WASD without the keyframe. I see other designs do it, just personal preference.

[@MadModLabs]

1) You could totally use hotswap sockets. You would need one for each switch. You could just press them on before soldering and then solder to the socket instead of the switch. This way you would be wiring a more modular harness. I have used similar sockets in a handwired keyboard project: amzn.to/3TfsCGW 2) For an external USB port, I would start with a USB breakout board. You could take measurements of the board and model a mounting point inside the controller case. Something like this: amzn.to/4edQAKX GP2040-CE has some documentation on adding a USB host port. Here is how it would need to be wired up: gp2040-ce.info/controller-build/usb-host 3) On the mixbox model, the trim piece is pretty much optional. If you build a mixbox without the trim piece you could extrude the walls around the keys to fill in the gap where the trim piece fits in. Also, you could change the mounting depth of the switches to keep the face of the controller flat where the WASD keys are. Personally, I like the keys to be recessed at the same depth as the arcade buttons but raising them up would give it more of a "keyboard" feeling. Good luck on your experiments!

[@ProjectLM_]

@@MadModLabs Thanks for the info and for the links! This'll be my first time really doing any 3D design work (even if just modifying) so all the links and tips have been super helpful

[@wiesman2613]

Great guide, I'm just getting into soldering... And this seems like a great project to up my skills. How much harder would a version with a joystick be?

[@suntzu6122]

Is there a maximum number of buttons you can use? Like 20+?

[@MadModLabs]

The Raspberry Pi Pico has 29 GPIO pins. So you could have 29 unique inputs. This is assuming you do not connect any buttons to the same input like I did in the video with the jump button. Please see the pin mapping page of the GP2024-CE documentation for more details about how you can use all those inputs: gp2040-ce.info/web-configurator/menu-pages/pin-mapping

[@Str8EdgeJesse]

You can always look at making a platform fighter all button controller to DIY. I've made several out of cardboard using the Pico. It has 20-21 buttons depending on the layout.

[@ST-js9nh]

How did you get this cool surface on the black and red one? It looks like it's printed but in the 3D model it appears to be flat? Do you have a special Hotbed for your printer? Great video and keep it up 😊

[@lelandclayton5462]

Do I use a Pico or a Pico W? Kinda confused since it's a webui configuration so I would think a Pico W.

[@MadModLabs]

The regular Raspberry Pi Pico is what you need. The main difference between the two is the Pico W's wireless module. Both boards are capable of running the firmware but the wireless antenna is not needed.

[@jackipiegg]

3:45 Could you PLEASE remix it having a UP button for circles too, menu buttons move to the top body "sides" . I can't for the life of me play a platformer without an actual up button on top, also I prefer circular buttons than wsad.

[@MadModLabs]

I have updated the Printables page with layouts that include an UP arcade button. All of these layouts have the menu buttons moved to the top side of the controller. The directional buttons have been moved down about 10mm to make room for the additional button. The screen still fits though! I just finished a test print to verify. Please see the "Alternate Layouts" folder here: www.printables.com/model/839348-compact-hitbox-controller-remix/files

[@jackipiegg]

@@MadModLabs Wow didn't expect you to overhaul it, especially the menu buttons. Time for a V2 video! Perfect time to make a wireless version with Adafruit nRF52840! Also its from the same team that made gp2040. I don't think there's any video on it yet, pretty much so as its kinda buried unless you actually search it, "Slimbox BT" on printables will guide you to all the github repo and everything.

[@outthefryinpan]

Do you have any advice for printing the main shell parts? because it takes up my whole printing bed, sometimes the print is not fully flat and has a bit of warping.

[@MadModLabs]

@@outthefryinpan you will definitely want to make sure your printer is dialed in because the tolerance of the holes around the arcade buttons is really tight. Start off by making sure your bed is as level as possible. Also check your Z-axis offset. Making sure your nozzle is the correct distance from the print bed will help your first layer stick evenly. To prevent warping, make sure your printing temperature is good for the filament you are using. If your print is not sticking you could try printing just a little hotter. Lastly, you could try using an adhesion promoter for large flat objects that really do not want to stick. My personal favorite is a light spray of Aqua Net hairspray on the print bed before starting the print.

[@outthefryinpan]

@@MadModLabs Solid advice, thank you. I will give this a shot!

[@scottwc999]

My printer is started! What kind of wire do you use for soldering the switches together?

[@MadModLabs]

I just used some recycled 24G solid core wire. You could use pretty much any wire around that size. You could even use the wires from a gutted Ethernet cable.

[@efradigmr1567]

Bro I did exactly this too! We have the exactly same approach

[@Alex_whatever]

Where did you source the wire? Looks like the solid core wire used in patch panels for phone or networking.

[@SahaquielDotUs]

Great guide, almost done printing a mixbox; However looking at the files, it looks like the square keycaps aren't included in the mixbox (or hitbox) printables files. Can you link where you sourced them? Or add to the printables page? Thanks!

[@MadModLabs]

@@SahaquielDotUs www.printables.com/model/109679-cherry-mx-low-profile-keycap

[@dragonryu747]

its dificult to do the arcade buttons but for low profile mechanical switches?

[@MadModLabs]

@@dragonryu747 I think it would be possible to remodel the buttons to accept low-profile switches. The switch mounting depth would need to be reduced without removing the threads on the outside. Would you like to use the switches that have an MX stem or a Choc stem?

[@dragonryu747]

@@MadModLabs cherry mx the gateron low profile switch

[@Juvination]

Hi I was wondering if you had any suggestions to help the mounts/nuts actually securing together? I've tried a few different print options, and I can't get the nuts to actually have a good tight grip, they just spin in place once secured to the back. Any help would be appreciated! I am using PLA and not PETG but I suppose I could try PETG.

[@zenmaster24]

for the mixbox layout, is it normal to have the thumb jump button as well?

[@MadModLabs]

@@zenmaster24 with a custom controller, the buttons could be set up any way you want. I have seen some very unusual Hitbox layouts.

[@dragonryu747]

i got problems printing the nut and mount what conf u use to print?

[@MadModLabs]

I used PETG. Sliced in Cura. .2 layer height. 4 walls so they are basically solid. 2mm retraction. No support on the nut. Mount is printed upside down with support on the inside.

[@dezero1035]

can a 24mm sanwa button fit in this?

[@MadModLabs]

@@dezero1035 the hole in the 3D model is exactly 24mm so it should fit. You might want to add a little 3D printed spacer to make the mounting plate thicker where the button clips on.

[@HectorGardea]

For some reason after flashing the firmware onto my pico the LED onboard doesn't blink any ideas why? (also awesome video been building mine for the past 2 days)

[@MadModLabs]

@@HectorGardea It will still work even if the LED does not stay lit. I think it has something to do with the version on the firmware. As long as the Pi ejects from your computer you should be ready to proceed with the next steps.

[@critter42]

are there any known plans to port the GP-2040CE to the new Pico 2?

[@Cevap05]

Got some ATmegu32U4 boards lying around. Would I be able to do this project with one of those?

[@MadModLabs]

@Cevap05 GP2040-CE does not support Atmega32u4 boards so you would need to use a different firmware. You could probably make an Arduino sketch using the joystick library or use QMK to create keyboard input. This would probably work well for PC fighting games. I'm not sure about using Arduino for consoles.

[@Cevap05]

@@MadModLabs Thanks for reply. I will likely just follow your project closely, am planning to make this. Some ideas I had in mind and wanted your opinion. I am comfortable with soldering but wanted to see if there was maybe an option to allow some sort of "plug in/out" cables if-you-will into the switches in the case of ever wanted to replace them easily. I could simply tac de-solder, but wondered if there was some sort of convenient method? What kind of gauge wire should I look for to do this project? Also, was thinking of doing some nice non-3D printed button caps, which I imagine shouldn't be an issue to use, so long as their dimensions are similar.

[@MadModLabs]

@@Cevap05 You could make the controller easy to rewire by adding hot-swap sockets to each switch: amzn.to/4gUbKj5 For the Pi Pico, you could try using a set of right-angle pin headers: amzn.to/4gNbouV This set up would allow you to use Dupont connectors to easily rewire the controller: amzn.to/47Yj7Sw Another alternative would be using a Raspberry Pi Pico breakout board that has screw terminals. The screw terminals would allow you to move the wires around without soldering: amzn.to/48cFCnf I have not tested these components inside the controller so the fitment on these options may require slight modifications to the case. The wire I used is 24 AWG solid core wire. Anything close to that size will work just fine: amzn.to/3NdQPtJ You could use a manufactured set of arcade switches instead of the 3D printed ones. The holes in the 3D model are 24mm and 30mm exactly, so they should work with standard fightstick parts. Some parts might require a 3D printed spacer to add some thickness to the mounting holes in the controller. You will have more luck buying an entire set of arcade buttons instead of just the caps: amzn.to/3ZUvL3k Unless you mean the directional keys for the Mixbox model. Any set of MX style keyboard keycaps will work for those: amzn.to/4erTIDk If you do plan on using arcade buttons instead of keyboard switches you would need a different terminal to make them hot swappable: amzn.to/3XTI3WL I hope this information is helpful to you. The links I have provided are affiliate links and are meant to be an example. There are many alternative parts that you could make work for your build. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out!

[@Cevap05]

@@MadModLabs Appreciate the thorough reply, it's a big help! Beginning to understand. Say I did use the Dupont connectors, will they just slide onto the hot swap socket metal ends? If not, I suppose I could just solder that end. Based off your video, also trying to think of how to fix the hot swap socket itself from moving. Maybe somehow to the back of the button housing? I think you know what I am trying to achieve, some sort of solution that would allow for 'solder-free' switch replacing. If solder is required at any other part of the project, it's no problem. As for 3D file adjustments, this is no problem and was anticipating it.

[@MadModLabs]

@@Cevap05 You will need to solder the wire to the metal ends of the hot-swap sockets. After that, the sockets will friction-fit onto the legs of the switch. The wire would only need the Dupont connector on the end that attaches to the Pico.

[@llkurofoxll1013]

Wiring diagram layout please? It's practically impossible to follown along just from video.

[@MadModLabs]

gp2040-ce.info/controller-build/wiring/

[@NoMercyFtw]

The button mount should be able to be printed right side up, well at least it looks like it I would at least try it

[@lamMeTV]

missing the right thumb button and the left pinky button F