Magie Noire And Why Smelling Vintage Can Suck

[@wyomingpark]

Unfortunately, Perfume houses have to reformulate vintage fragrances because so many oils are now either restricted or banned altogether. That's why so many fragrances are discontinued because it is extremely difficult to replicate with alternative substitute oils. They just don't smell the same so they delete it. As a Perfumer myself, I have had to reformulate mine many times due to IFRA releasing restriction amendments every year. I just have to bite the bullet and formulate with oils that aren't restricted. Otherwise I ll never launch my line. And we have to be brilliant in creating fragrances without those magical oils. Not easy. Anyway, it is what it is. Just enjoy those vintage masterpieces and hold onto them.

[@LXS1303]

Wow, that used to be my perfume when I was 15! Sad to hear the formula has changed.

[@ewaoracz1400]

I love Magie Noire, it is my skin, my dream, when I had 20 years. I am still looking for old version.

[@gautamsinha5443]

I totally agree with you...grew up watching my Mother use some of the BEST perfumes in the 70s & 80s, I find the new ones good however, few can match the old world charm of the Oldies. 😔😍

[@glamdewi3522]

Vintage magie noire surely is magic 🥰💜.

[@TheScentinel]

Seems so.

[@dianelitman5956]

I just received the same little bottle of Maggie Noir, today in a mini sort of gift box that I ordered through Mercari. I dabbed it and really love it , but was not familiar with it . Hence I searched this video, only to hear the sad news. I love these earthy scents. I did enjoy hearing you discuss it though. Thanks.

[@TheScentinel]

@@dianelitman5956 maybe still give the new one a try

[@michaelbullock8011]

Great video and I enjoyed it and I'm going to try it and have a blessed day

[@vickypapapavlou5447]

I had the original perfume as a young girl. I would just touch my neck with the perfume and I could smell it all day. ❤ I was so rich and profound.

[@TheScentinel]

Sounds dreamy

[@vickypapapavlou5447]

Yes indeed. It was my first perfume and the best of all I 've had till now.

[@LEgoiste]

AHH now you've gone and done it, I've been extolling MN and fortunately no one's been listening. 😂 Haven't tried the latest after reading reviews. My experience of the original MN was in 1980, bought it for my then GF who loved it, it became her signature. It's like nothing else, it's a one sprayer like Opium, Poison etc. Can easily be overpowering by today's standards. Beautiful bottles too.

[@LEgoiste]

FYI, it's had 2 reformulations 86 and early 2000's. Go for the bottles with the banding, coloured and clear. 86 reformulation bottle have a round top similar in style to Hermes. 2000's the clear rectangular bottles appear.

[@Lara-zr3ox]

I have that perfume and im holding onto it for 15 years now.

[@TheScentinel]

It's worth treasuring

[@Lara-zr3ox]

@@TheScentinel true. I've never smelled anything like that on anyone else. And mine isn't quite from that round bottle either, I can't imagine how amazing was that original. I have different version, bottle is long and slim and half glass half black with that weird cap. And I love it. It's dark and deep almost choking but with a hint of freshness so it's almost hard to breathe but not quite xD can't explain it different. One spray on a neck and i'm good for a day. It doesn't wear off untill you wash it off. I will be very sad when I finish it. ❤️

[@TheScentinel]

@@Lara-zr3ox sounds amazing

[@clairemontgomery4826]

I agree with you about many vintages, but this one is truly a heartbreaker! I have a 1-oz splash from the 80s, and blind bought the new version because of my enthusiasm for the old one. New Magie Noire smells like the new Cartier Panthere. Nice,vbut miss-able, with pink pepper replacing oakmoss. At least I got it on sale. I think I've sprayed it twice in 4 months.

[@More13Feen]

Ohhhh I am so sorry 🙈 Magie noir was my mums signature. She is 62 and still has her original edt. Its still good and she still wears it but it gives me massive headaches. I bought the current one for nostalgic reasons and totaly love it tho. I do finde it very similar. I had to wear it several time and pay close atention to it tho. The first wear I thought it was totaly linear and a bit bland. On the second time I fell in love with the drydown. And I am actualy glad its not such a beast as my mums OG.

[@marianapetiet3167]

Mmm love this video, it resonates with me. Regarding this beauty, some years ago I was lucky enough to snatch an older formulation online. The person sold it, saying it had been in a bathroom cupboard for years. Clearly, they didn't care about the juice, they were more in the tidying up mood. It's not the gorgeous old bottle, but definitely somewhere in the 80s. Your sadness is familiar to me. I heard some people say that Zara's Jo Malone perfume Leather Jardin has that Magie Noire vibe. Would love to hear your take on it.

[@TheScentinel]

Well as it happens, since uploading this video someone very generously gave me a partial bottle of an 80s verion of Magie Noire. Needless to say, i was so happy to receive it. I actually have a sample of Leather Jardin, so i am definitely going to compare them now! Thank you🙏

[@TheScentinel]

This video shows the bottle i have... kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKCQeXqlgtmqatk

[@flavasauce8945]

Sorry for your loss Pep! Thoughts and 🧠 💭 🙏🏼 prayers. 😢💔

[@TheScentinel]

😔😜

[@flavasauce8945]

@@TheScentinel It’s better to have loved and lost than never to have smelled it. Live laugh Lancôme. 😆

[@TheScentinel]

@@flavasauce8945 🥲

[@TheScentinel]

@@flavasauce8945 btw, Lancôme also had one of my favourite leathers that is now discontinued.Cuir de Lancôme.

[@flavasauce8945]

@@TheScentinel I’ve heard a lot about that 🦄, would love to smell it! Ahh well…

[@justaddlight]

Justification for FOMO. It exists for a reason. But there certainly is beauty in impermanence. Methinks that FOLG (fear of letting go) is far more of a problem. 🧐

[@hewassuchaniceguy.7453]

Paco rabanne is the prime example of the vintage version being far superior to the newer juice. I just got a partial bottle of magie noire today. Looks to be a 90's version. Love it. You rarely steer me wrong, pep. Take care old pal

[@noellevitasa6169]

Spectacular rose chypre choice :) I hope you can try YSL Y (1964) and Paco Rabanne La Nuit (EDP)

[@Ms.Vivian-wd9ru]

I had a set of Magie Noire which also had a solid parfum.I had so many compliments while wearing it . A different Fragrance that has 9:28 been discontinued that I adore was KL parfum for women . I found a vintage one but am hesitant to buy the vintage fragrance fearing it will have a rancid , old , icky feeling essence . So I am asking is it not likely when using vintage ? I would not mind trying something similar . It’s has to have that hypnotic factor ;which I feel is missing in quite a few fragrances these days . This video was very helpful thank you kindly

[@JJColb]

The heartache is real, also the attachment. I’ve had to examine my attachment and learn not to have such a tight grip. Be that as it may, I am quite fortunate to have my little bottle of Magie Noire and I should not fear wearing-and relishing it. You have a healthy perspective, Pep. ♥️

[@soniasobaro9127]

I am sad whenever I smell Loewe fragrances (Esencia for men, Gala, Aura and Aire for women) these used to be so rich and complex. Now these are so different that it is difficult to understand why they keep their names .... I am normally ok with reformulations but in some cases it would be better in my opinion to just stop selling them

[@TheScentinel]

I agree.

[@SamuelGustav]

The thing that makes me sad about vintages is reading about them and then the difficulty of just smelling them, its a bit frustrating. I do occasionally find minis, those are a good way to discover which is enough for me, but extremely frustrating if we do want a bottle. I don't like the vintage hunting, although many do enjoy the hunt

[@MrMarioman107]

I remember Magie Noire from the 1980's-it was great!

[@barbaraporter6573]

The oakmoss is missing in the new version.

[@TheScentinel]

It feels like it

[@yanah.965]

There are so many wonderful perfumes on the market to pick from today, I normally stick to modern day formulations, especially with all the niche options, but since 2020 when I started perfume as a hobby, I have in my mind a list of about 12 or so perfumes from my late teens, through my 20s & 30s that I’ve wanted to revisit but I had been resisting knowing that what a rabbit hole it can be and being cognizant of the potential heartbreak upon smelling reformulations that have been rendered from vintage fragrances. I’m 63 and in my early 20’s I worked selling fragrances at a couple of major department stores here in the U.S. and some of the fragrance on my list are indelibly seared into my memory from smelling so often at that job. All that said, I just couldn’t get most of these perfumes off my mind, and so last year I finally gave in and decided to see if I could come up with some intact bottles working within my limited budget. Some of the fragrances on my list I am actually satisfied enough with the modern versions. They are not as full bodied as I remember them, but they will do. Those being Ralph Lauren’s Safari (1990), Jean Patou 1000 (1972), YSL Paris (1983), First by Van Cleef & Arpels and Chanel No 5 & 19, Dior Poison & Mugler Alien, Estee Lauder Youth Dew & Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps. I’m happy to wear the iterations being sold today (or in 2020). Arpege by Lavin I have a vintage bottle and I find that the modern version I actually like better. Ombre Rose by Jean Charles Brosseau (1981) is one that I recently found a vintage parfum that is wonderful. I absolutely love this fragrance, having this small bottle brought it all back- so I can say this is a success, not a heartbreak. But I realized that I would go through the the 7.5 ml parfum way to fast if I wore it as much I would like, so I decided to look for an EDT or EDP (or both, as they are not that expensive) I recently found an older bottle of the EDT on it’s way to me, so hopefully it’s intact. I also recently bought a vintage bottle YSL Opium that based on the bottle is from between 1986-1992. It came in the post last week & It smells good, but I don’t think it's truly vintage juice. Which of course is always a risk when buying second hand & especially with vintage. I will probably give it one more go at trying to find authentically vintage Opium juice and then let YSL’s original Opium go if I can’t find an older formulation that is closer to what I remember from the 80s. I have four more left on my ‘Vintage Wish List’ that after reading up on them, I want to try & get the older formulations: 1. Paloma Picasso "Paloma Picasso" (1984) 2. Dior Dioressence (specifically the parfum extrait that came in the 15ml vial) because that is what I wore when it came out in 1979) 3. CoCo Chanel (1984) 4. Oscar de la Renta, Oscar de la Renta, which I just bought a bottle yesterday and so it’s on its way to me too. You are so right about perfume keeping us mindful of present moment awareness and of the impermanence of all things in life, along with the lesson of letting go with grace. But I am having fun and it’s an interesting project comparing different formulations. The key is just not to get too attached or romantic about what I think I remember them to have been. That, and to have gratitude for all the gorgeous modern perfumes we have and to remember as the song goes, to “love the one you’re with’.

[@manlyscents]

It certainly is a rabbit hole. Great video man

[@TheScentinel]

😁 thank you

[@Evernia6181]

For me, they are different, though I like the current version. The old stuff is smoother from start to finish. The new formula is colder on the opening, and eventually settles down to about ~85% of its historical glory, but the old stuff has the beautiful warmth of oakmoss and civet. Vintage Opium shames the current version.

[@alineonbeauty6294]

I love vintage perfumes but have lost so much money buying vintage bottles that have turned. I had to step away from it

[@lindapestridge3073]

I found your channel at last, I enjoy watching you , You make interesting videos Then i couldn't find your channel anymore glad to be back.

[@TheScentinel]

Oh that's strange. I didn't go anywhere. But thank you!

[@lindapestridge3073]

@@TheScentinel thank you glad i found you again.

[@JONATHAN-db2ry]

I've been on a galbanum kick lately. I'm glad I caught this review. I may have to sort out a sample. Thanks as always Pep ✌🏻

[@TheScentinel]

Hope you can sniff some out

[@TheScentinel]

@@margienoire7464 should have dedicated this video to you Margie😜

[@michael_galicia]

I suggest Zara Leather Jardin. I know, I know, Zara. But this is one of the collaborations with Jo Malone. People are commenting on the Magie Noire connection. Anyway, it's her vintage take on some of the greats. Personally, I don't get the leather, but I do get ALL of the bitter green with a touch of rose. And for 22 euro, there's not much to lose.

[@Jenn_N]

Hello Pep, I think I feel this disappointment often when I smell reformulations of fragrances I knew in older versions. I am in my mid 40's and remember how a lot of these classic fragrances were. The depth and richness of natural essences and oils makes a big difference. They are complex in ways manufactured aroma chemicals can't be. If only we didn't know better, but we do. I know all the IFRA regulation is supposed to appease people with allergies and irritations to natural materials. They are supposed to be doing it to allow cosmetic and fragrance companies ways to continue making fragrances. Some of the manufactured chemicals are there to reduce the cost to produce fragrances and increase profit. They make 'vanilla' type notes from pine needles because the real vanilla is so costly, but we eat it so it's not toxic. On the other hand, some wood essences can be harmful and are naturally toxic so it can be about amounts allowable for safety. I don't know that there are clear answers but I know the difference in complexity when I smell it. Is it because appeal to the masses? Is it cost? Is it trying to make the scent more mass appealing? It's hard to say. I will say that it does make me want to test before buying anything. I will say there is less that captures me when I smell it. Not everything needs to be complex but I do want to love the things I have in my collection. As you have pointed out, it may not be worth having a fragrance if you never reach for it and wear it. Out of curiosity, have you tried any TRNP fragrances from your lovely country? Teone is supposed to tincture a lot of her own ingredients and I was wondering if the difference in the smell and quality of her ingredients was apparent? I would love to sample some of that house one day. - Jenn

[@TheScentinel]

Hey Jenn, i have tried a few of TR perfumes but have yet to be enchanted by any. I have other issues re that brand that let's just say, discourages me from supporting them.

[@Jenn_N]

@@TheScentinelWell now I'm more curious about your reasons. Is is something I can read about online?

[@TheScentinel]

@@Jenn_N nothing i'd say publicly.

[@nathalieethier6552]

Omg yes... Magie Noire was my mom perfume... it is my olfactive memory of her... and in the 2000 until her death in 2009 ...it was Loulou. Nothing compares to Magie Noire of that era... Nothing. How could you not fall in love... My mom was the epitome of Magie Noire. 🖤

[@lisaesposito7317]

Perfume is a reminder of the impermanence of life- love that. I’ve not smelled many vintages so I’ve not had this happen yet. I hope to get a friend with a robust vintage collection so I can smell them but then I might become a vintage chaser… better not to know!

[@TheScentinel]

Keep your options open😁

[@AlliBaba1234]

I find that chasing vintage is folly. It’s like comparing vintage wine to young wine; some mature nicely, some have turned to vinegar, and you can’t always expect something that went into a bottle last year, to behave like something that has beautifully aged and matured for decades. Happy accidental finds are great, but chasing them is often disappointing, and I have absolutely zero interest in watching all of those “1980 vs 1997 reformulation” videos. I guess it’s fine as an intellectual exercise and a time-pass, but I just think that ultimately, fragrance is to be USED, and nothing lasts forever. Sometimes longing for memories is actually sweeter than holding them in your hands.

[@TheScentinel]

@@AlliBaba1234 I absolutely agree

[@JohmathanBSwift]

Just found a 30ml for 64.75 Pep.

[@TheScentinel]

Old version?

[@JohmathanBSwift]

@@TheScentinel Yes. There's big money building perfume portfolios. You know, all that extra splash money. I've picked up some very nice, unopened perfumes, for very good prices, along with partials.

[@TheScentinel]

@@JohmathanBSwift when it comes to perfume buying, it's a real disadvantage not living in Europe or Nth America.

[@sardonicsophisticate3974]

Magie Noire. She puts a spell on you! 😉 ❤️

[@TheScentinel]

I have you to thank for this video x

[@sardonicsophisticate3974]

@@TheScentinel So happy to see that little bottle in your video! May have to supply you with some more! It’s magical. I’m so happy you were taken with it! The contemporary version is a farce.

[@TheScentinel]

@@sardonicsophisticate3974 🥲🤗

[@bil85]

Shit!!! I just bought this to my mother. My mother used to wear this parfum years ago and she couldn't found it anymore. Damn

[@helenowimrin6886]

I used Magie Noire all my life, Unfortunately can't find it anymore . Very sad .

[@TheScentinel]

Not even the current version?

[@jeremyhinze8837]

I'm curious to try this now.... 🏃🏼‍♂️ vintage hunting 🤣

[@TheScentinel]

😁

[@mangojuice3163]

I love magie noir soooo much

[@RichMitch]

😢

[@JaneDaly]

If you know me & my perfume you'll know I adore vintage. At this point I prefer older perfumes to anything new. Nothing I smell impresses me as much as my older perfumes. That said, I've been burnt by musty dusty attic smelling vintages with nary a top note intact. It's a dangerous game 😅

[@sabatesfamarme9497]

💜🙏💜🙏💜🙏💜

[@adrianpocea2287]

That's why you should never smell Antaeus vintage

[@TheScentinel]

😁

[@adrianpocea2287]

@@TheScentinel I didn't have time to write longer. Here I go. For me lots of the new formulations of older fragrances are like the covers of classic old songs. Like the ones that you would find on Amazon music or Spotify, where they don't have the rights to the original song but they put on air a cover done by a generic band with generic orchestration. You sing along with it cause you love the song but the experience is not the same. Or a cover done by a band in a restaurant. Some can be very good, some can have a great tweak to them( I ALMOST like some of the Cher versions of Abba better than the original) but most of them are just a pale copy made more for you to sing along in the memory. I noticed that with Giorgio Beverly Hills vintage vs new. I had the new first. Great fragrance, a little bit of a beast, hits all the notes, has the dna, nothing wrong di per se with it. On the contrary, a very solid fragrance. But, man, I got a vintage. Open bottle, partial, juice went dark brown, oily, a beauty. And, O M G, what a blast! All the notes are concentrated in the beginning in a blast of perfumey, masculine gorgeousness, and then they unfold like in a sonata for piano, one by one, dancing around you in umphs and whiffs and wafts. Same with Antaeus, but there the castoreum goes animalic( and wonderful) in the vintage one and lasts forever. Kouros is a different animal, the old one vs the new one. You say is not worth it chasing it for hundreds of dollars. Lucky you( your wallet) that you don't have Ebay as handy as fast as in US. It's hard to resist here, in US. My next target is the vintage Fahrenheit. The old, initial one, has so much more than the gasoline, has lots of spices, unfolds and hits in a masterful way

[@TheScentinel]

@@adrianpocea2287 well we actually do have ebay😁 but luckily i don't have the money to buy all these vintages.

[@adrianpocea2287]

@@TheScentinel I didn't want to be mean about Australia( the geography of it) Actually I love it more and more and one day I will pay a visit. What I was saying that here are thousands of sellers that ship in two days, etc. You take great care of you wallet( as I try to do) and you take lots of wonderful trips to Europe, etc. I try the same. Fragrances are not worth much in my opinion if you also don't save to travel or go out in the right settings to wear them. One thing is to wear a great fragrance around your city in a daily activity ( still great, we do that all the time) but another thing is to wear a fragrance that you love on the Amalfi coast or at a luxury resort in Hawaii or Australia. One has to have the budget for both. Have a wonderful day, Pep

[@christopherhaigh7899]

They have taken away the most important ingredient the things that make perfume sparkle they are all so flat now so sad the magic of perfume has gone for me they all deserve to go broke.