Main Cylinder Machining! Big Steam Engine Build, Part 6

[@Blondihacks]

Hey everyone- since a lot of people are asking: No, you can’t use the cast bore for any kind of setup. Bores are cast as cores and they are never straight or round. You can see what happens if you do that on my PM1 engine (see my playlists). The bored cylinder is a little crooked on the casting because I trusted the cast bore as a setup reference. You have to reference cast surfaces that won’t be machined when creating the initial machined ones to ensure the surfaces are well aligned on the casting when you are done.

[@Blondihacks]

Also people are suggesting referencing the bore with a mandrel for the facing. There’s no point in doing that. They’re done in the same setup as I show it here. That’s as square as you can ever get. Then the opposite face is referenced from the faceplate so it’s guaranteed parallel. No fancy mandrels required

[@craigpuetz7020]

As an retired engineer who has designed large parts and castings - we always worked with the foundry engineer and the manufacturing engineer. We identified the surfaces that would be used for the initial machining setups and indicated them on the drawing (or in the CAD model) as the rough locating datums (they were typically small, circular areas). The foundry does everything possible to hold the relationships for the rest of the casting to these datums and the machining fixture designer knows where the part should be supported. I am surprised the the rough datums aren't specified even on the model castings. They help you understand how the casting was made and would give you guidance on how the designer expected the machining cuts to be made.

[@NellsMechanicalManCave]

Hi Quinn, I always give a like but seldom comment on your videos because, you always have lots of comments to reply too so no point overworking that keyboard more than necessary 😊 I noticed that your bellows style way cover missing off your lathe bed and firstly thought it had failed as mine did a long while back. Then realised it was obstructing the faceplate or counter weights. Good call if that was the case, it gets messy when things start spinning! I recently fitted a simple smooth faced self retracting way cover to my mill that protects both the Y and Z at the same time which has been very well received and copied by quite a few on my little channel. I'm going to do the same on my lathe as keeping it clean is so easy and I never get rubber bunching up. The concept might be an option for you in the future if you feel like a change. Thanks for another great video, always informative and entertaining Neil 😊

[@MaryFreet]

Can you help my brother with machining his pm research #4 engine if I have him ship it to you to have it machined

[@cripplecreeksawmill]

"I'm near the end of work on an expensive piece, now is not the time to experiment with new techniques." Wise words for hobbyist and professional machinists, alike. 👍👍

[@austo2010]

Number Dyslexia is called Dyscalculia and like dyslexia there are a couple of things that can help reduce Fatigue and mistakes, working on coloured paper being one of them! (The specific colour of paper is fairly important and very individual, don't ask me why, but My magic paper colour is a light Blue)

[@fellipec]

I love watching you build things. Feels like I'm a friend in your shop

[@Blondihacks]

You are! 😁

[@steveskouson9620]

Ever since I found Quinn's channel, I've been doing the same thing. Outside of doing very minor things with the lathe and mill, in the store's shop, I just watch Quinn. steve

[@alfonse4595]

Trick for faceplate balancing. Let the spindle spin freely, out of gear. The heaviest side will tend to fall down to the bottom. Add weight opposite that. When you adjust the counter weight like that a few times, you should be turn it to any orientation and it just stays, no heavy spot that tends to fall down.

[@impetus444]

That sounds good. Thanks for the tip.

[@ericbernath3121]

When I was taught to build threaded pipe systems the ole timer taught me to remember the rule of three. U should be able to thread the nipple into the hole 3 turns by hand, then 3 turns with a pipe wrench, and u should have 3 threads showing. Not sure this translates to tiny threads but for half inch pipe and up it has worked for me for the last 15 years. Love your videos! Cheers!

[@terryberger8992]

I agree. My plumber mentor taught us to use 2-1/2 turns for the steam fittings which allowed a little less of the taper so you never bottomed out in any fitting, which helped with bronze fittings and not expanding the fitting with wrenching them. And a good quality pipe dope on the treads helped with sealing.

[@mamcCaff]

Hi Quinn, I've been a machinist for 40 years. I don't normally watch videos of people machining but I don't miss any of yours. I have the same number problem as well. My solution is when a number has only 2 decimal places I'll add a zero to make all my dimensions 3 places. Especially helps when working with tenths (ten thousands) add a zero to make all my dimensions 4 places. Add the zeros right to the print.

[@bornstellar9429]

Fun fact for @12:20, that function is called 'Dithering' when you vary the speed of a motor, or position of an effector like a solenoid. Often used in proportional hydraulic solenoids to allow for fine movements as the dynamic friction of a continuously moving solenoid allows smaller changes to still be accomplished, where if dithering was not done, the static friction would prevent the solenoid from moving until a larger difference in signal was sent.

[@rogerbettaney8443]

This was also done when using dc motors for positioning control. A small ac voltage was applied to the armature so you could just feel very slight armature movement. This overcame what was referred to as stiction, and enabled very precise position control to be obtained.

[@carlwilson1772]

Thereby defeating mechanical hysteresis.

[@mith5168]

A cheap set of Forstner Bits ( gasp… woodworking tool!)… can be used to locate a center hole from an external boss diameter. Just blunt the center point into a punch shape. Select a drill diameter close the rough boss diameter, align it to the boss, and smack it. Viola!

[@auxchar]

Another neat faceplate trick: if you're ever worried about it, you can take a light facing cut on your faceplate when it's mounted up, and that way you can ensure that it's true with the axis of the lathe.

[@stephenbridges2791]

".....now is not the time to experiment." I can't tell you the times I wished that I hadn't. Sage advice in many fields of endeavor.

[@SentinalhMC]

binging this series really makes me want to get into machining and build this engine. I have a dream to build a Day-Land Steam Engine and make a Steam Car.

[@wibblywobblyidiotvision]

That's coming along nicely, Quinn. Steam engines have joints, though, not gaskets :) For the number dyslexia thing, I know where you're coming from. I work as an electrician, last summer I was installing a towel radiator in a bathroom, luxury job, the tiles are all modern and huge, 1m by 60cm, specially imported from Italy, and the mounting was such that the mounting screws would hit 4 tiles. I measured 3 times, used the laser to get stuff absolutely square and perfectly centred. I got the vertical spacing right. Horizontal spacing was slightly off, though. Spacing width on the radiator 84cm. OK, chuck the laser in place and find the centre of the space the radiator has to go into, half of 84, that's 44, OK, mark 44 cm each side, use the laser for the verticals and find the lowest points, measure up to the top mounts, mark up the holes, check with the laser that they're aligned, drill, manage not to crack the tiles, it's all good, go to fit the radiator and - damn. Half of 84 isn't 44, is it? Still, meant I got to do some ornamental turning in stainless to make up some offset mounts...

[@burninpwder76]

glad you were able to catch yourself on the brain number switch. My head likes to flip numbers too. Here is a trick i use when working close tolerance I have to get right to make sure i don't flip numbers. When i read a number say 2.380 when i hit that point I use it as a mental switch then read the next numbers as single distinct figures with a pause between each so 2.380 becomes two POINT three....eight.....zero. Reading them that way as single figures stops the brain gremlin from flipping numbers. and gives you a mental check on figures. several times I have caught mistakes in prints or in my copying by this method. can't wait to see this beast under steam. My current shop project is building a forklift :D not a precision job but my back will thank me when i'm done :D

[@andrewirobinson]

Quinn, my tip for getting the hole centred in a cast boss is usually to eyeball it with a sharpie dot as centrally as you can, then eyeball the sharpie dot with a very light centre punch and adjust if needed. If the sharpie dot is a bit out the first time, you can erase with spirits and try again. It can seem counter-intuitive do work like this when accuracy with measuring tools is drilled into us, but with a little effort and practice you'll find that it becomes a reliable technique. You've got a good eye for accuracy so try it next time!

[@sambrose1]

My thoughts on the 38 thousandths. Everything I do at work is called out 0.000 never any 0.00 no tenths only thousandths. So that's what my brain is use to. Getting a weekend project called out in tenths would definitely mess with my head and I would have to be careful. Thank you for bringing us along on your adventures.

[@75Bird455]

Same here. When I'm working with Solidworks it automatically rounds 0.375 up to 0.38. When I print a drawing I have to remember to round back down to the original dimension in my head.

[@Reman1975]

For tapered taps, I used to dip them in marking out blue. It wears off the teeth to the depth the tap goes into the metal, so once you've tapped a few holes to the right depth you get a witness mark to show you where to stop tapping. The only problem is that tiny manufacturing variations in the thread on the fittings can mean about a full threads difference in how far it screws into the part, so I'd still usually have to have two goes at getting it right. On the plus side, these variations also meant that if I'd oversized the threaded hole very slightly, I could just try several of my cheapo fittings until I found one that was also at the upper end of it's thread diameter tolerance.

[@misterikkit]

That back side deburring tool is magical

[@RonCovell]

Quinn - thanks for another excellent video. You really caught my attention when you mentioned that you have occasional dyslexia with numbers, which troubles me too. I presumed that your background in programming indicated you were a whiz with numbers. It's nice to have a reality check here, and to see what precautions you take knowing that there are rabbit holes that could trip us up!

[@Jestey6]

@Halfdan Knudsen I used to be able to spin 3D objects in my mind. Now I’m older, not wiser, I have to arrange odd bits of wood and metal in order to visualise, and even then get it wrong. I was also good at mental arithmetic, thank God for calculators.

[@DavidLindes]

Another relevant-for-some condition that I only learned about relatively recently: dyscalculia. I don't see that as being described here, but could easily imagine it being relevant for some, and since the word was new to me as recently as it was, I thought I'd share.

[@howardosborne8647]

That is exactly the same condition as the other one😂

[@jacobbellwood6184]

Hi Quinn, with the cylinder cocks on locos, what you mentioned is there for letting excess moisture out when the cylinders are cold, another part which is common why they are open is low pressure starting of the loco like when the loco is coupled to another vehicle and keeping them open for that moment also prevents the steam pressure to keep the loco from going too far and potentially causing damage through other things. So your reasonably there with it.

[@lynnbryant9866]

I think seven threads is the proper engagement for pipe threads. Not seven threads deep, seven threads engaged. I did not get that from Machinery's Handbook or any other 'official' or 'recognized' source. I got it YEARS ago from an old guy I was extremely blessed to work with who was a master machinist, master millwright, master welder, master cabinetmaker, licensed master electrician, and very likely a master of EVERYTHING ELSE he had ever even attempted. He sort of took me under his wing. A very kind, gentle, and patient guy...with kids and 'new guys' who wanted to learn. With know-it-alls, well, they learned quickly either to change their attitude or to give him a WIDE berth. Smartest man I ever met. I miss him.

[@32thedoctor]

I hear you. I've had many teachers, but few have earned the title of mentor in my mind.

[@lynnbryant9866]

@@32thedoctor Indeed, sir, indeed. They are scarce critters. The other kind are plentiful...and getting more so, or so it seems.

[@SamJantz]

I screw up numbers like that all the time except for me I flip the digits around the decimal place, so 1.357 becomes 3.157. I found this out sometime in high school, but still love math and engineering, I just also have someone else check my digits for flips when I can :) It's nice to see I'm not the only one!

[@johncrowley5612]

That's going to be a very handsome engine. I love the tall, slender proportions of early American steam engines as opposed to the often more squat English style.

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

Definitely +1 for avoiding spring passes so you have well-controlled chip load, tool deflection and finish. If you understand how the tool behaves under cutting loads, and take good measurements, you always hit the tolerance. I treated myself to some second-hand three-point bore mics and ring gauges for measuring precision bores, they are great for taking multiple measurements down a bore without having to remove the gauge and measure it multiple times. A bit of a luxury perhaps, but I find I'm using them a lot. Same with the groove mics. I didn't think I needed such a tool, but now I use them frequently when facing parts with small through-bores. Loving this project!

[@ADBBuild]

You can buy tapered pipe thread gauges. They have a flat ground on them that should line up with the top of whatever you are tapping when the gauge is threaded all the way in. If it doesn't, you need to tap deeper, or you tapped too deep already. They are usually expensive though.

[@bobbykozak6032]

In the machine shops I worked in, we actually just used a NPT grub screw, flush head was deep enough.

[@mp6756]

Pipe thread tap a general rule of thumb I have always relied on. Leave 5 threads of the tap above the hole.

[@normanbarter7323]

A thought comes to mind on ‘The Difficulty of Centering a Small Hole on a Small Rough Casting’ If you move the order of operations(oo) “mill surface of the casting” up the oo to just after you line everything up, that small rough casting is now a clean flat surface. The expedient of a small round disk (divided into 4 equal quadrants which created a circle w a dot at the center) slightly smaller than the rough circumstance of the milled feature, overlayed against the milled feature now provides an excellent visual guide to center and a flat surface upon which to punch, spot and drill the desired hole. This was your idea btw., the circular scratch lines on the casting using hand winding and a sharp insert was almost as good as that marvelous piece of fixturing and machining on the stand body thingie, (cross head slide?) Just a thought. Love this build. Love the show. Yahtzee!

[@RVJimD]

I left a comment re this problem. I’m curious about best practices for this issue and am interested to learn more about it. I’m not experienced enough to make any suggestions and have had the exact same problem in the past.

[@jimsvideos7201]

Missing the dimension on the drawing but hitting the one you were thinking of has either happened to me already or very likely will. Both, probably.

[@howardblinder9551]

Hi Blondi - I am retired aerospace toolmaker/tool designer/instructor. I have a keen interest in making some of these model steam engines in my home shop and am enjoying viewing some of your kit builds. I do have a suggestion that you might try to help with fixturing some of your odd shape castings. As you are a machinist when you find an irregular surface that you are trying to clamp down. You get a bunch of shims and go to clamping and measuring. What I do as a toolmaker in the same situation is to get the part level on a surface plate. Use wedges jacks or what ever you have handy, then mix up some epoxy or fiberglass filler and begin filling some void spaces between your part, and the surface plate. Use a filler that sets fast. (I like using Dyna-glass. You would have waxed or oiled your surface plate so plastic will nor adhere, but it will sure stick to the casting. Once the first pour has set, move around your part and fill in more as needed. Now when you clamp you will have a rock solid bottom. “No shims”. When you eventually get to machining on the plastic part side, you can simply knock the plastic off, or just machine it as you would the excess casting material. Another little trick you can do with plastic is temp bond cerated drill bushings in key places when making a quick fixture. Any way, give the plastic a try, it was good enough to create a whole division at most of the aerospace companies. “Soft Tooling”, plastic and plaster, tooled a lot of boats, airplanes, autos. i am having fun watching and enjoying your channel. Be well, Howard

[@woxallaviation4640]

I’m not a machinist, just a fan, wood turner (🙀), and flight instructor, but I find much here that helps my woodcraft. With respect to your numerical transposition issues it’s a well know phenomenon that pilots, when instructed to turn to a heading of 30 degrees (turn zero three zero) will frequently turn to 300 (three zero zero) even after reading back the correct command. You’d make a fine pilot.

[@tjh44961]

On tapping, using an NPT tap -- an old machinist once told me that if you start by tapping the depth equal to the stated diameter of the tap, it's a good place to start. 1/8" NPT (5/16 - 27), so tap to 5/16" deep. You can go deeper if you need to, but you'll never be starting off too deep. This works on MTP (model taper pipe) taps, too, because the degree of taper is the same.

[@paulthomas3782]

Your engine is looking fantastic. I too have the number thing happening glad it's not just me. Thanks for sharing

[@bernieshort6311]

Another nice job Quinn. BSP is a British thread type which has parallel taps, I believe the TPI's are the same as the pipe threads you are using. BSP stands for British Standard Pipe. I have spent my entire life at sea as a marine engineer. The tapered pipe thread often used was NTP, which I never liked. I used BSP rather than the tapered pipe threads and never had a problem with them. Just a view, not intended as criticism. Looking forward to the next video, the engine is really coming together now.

[@kurtarmbrust]

Been waiting for the next steam engine installment. Anxious to see it run.

[@vintyprod]

Lol “I need a flat surface so I got out the angle grinder” is a pretty funny statement

[@Blondihacks]

Flat-er. 😬

[@jclark2752]

Ever since becoming an avid viewer of your channel, I've become such a snob about other people's machining work... Bah! Did you see the runout on that last piece?! He didn't even take a spring cut on those inner threads! A fly cutter would have given a much better surface finish than that, you know... I, of course, do not do any machining myself... 😆

[@32thedoctor]

Sorry to hear about the .034. I made a similar mistake just the other day. Got an incorrect number stuck in my head and carried it through the calculations. I feel your pain. Great video, BTW. Love the face plate clamps.

[@TheMechanic626]

those slow motion shots are really nice.

[@saren874]

What a great channel! There sure is a lot I don't understand but I still find it really enjoyable.

[@shrumsolutions879]

Excellent setup. Glad to see the boring bar worked out for you. These solid carbide bars are really a game changer.

[@deemstyle]

Do you offer a set of these bars? Say 16, 12, 8, and 6mm? I cannot currently find a 16mm option on your website.

[@notquitecopacetic]

"If you can understand your own cognitive weaknesses it really helps you prevent errors." Very good advice. Something I try to instill in my children rather than allowing them to continue believing they are infallible (as appears to be our default mode in my experience).

[@ulrichs.3228]

I'm not nearly through yet, but I'm pausing here to thank you for taking the time to put in the strobe warnings. Many people would've just not cared. (The engineer part of my brain is now wondering about frame-by-frame autocorrection in software, or if one could build steadier lights with staggered LEDs...)

[@Blondihacks]

I’ve only recently learned how many people are bothered by this so I’m trying to warn for it now!

[@ron827]

Great work as usual and I often learn a new word on your channel, "fettling". As for eyeball centering on a boss, a washer or two can be helpful.

[@tomdowney7519]

You did a great job of boring shapes between centers, why change, we turned a shaft to fit the cylinder then turned cones to fit both faces of the cylinder. then squared the ends.

[@jasonpohl2931]

You are right about the CNC having this feature built in(at least with the newer haas machines I worked with) they call it “Spindle Speed Variation” and it works wonders to stop chatter sometimes! Great tip for hobby machines I’m sure

[@colonialroofingofnorthcaro441]

A inexpensive harbor freight 12 inch disc wheel sander works pretty good for sanding flat surfaces

[@mumblbeebee6546]

That was a pleasing resolution to a dark ‘cold open’ ! Congratulations to a cylinder well bored!

[@Nemozoli]

Quinn, looking at you decrease chattering by changing the RPM had me going jealous... as I had a total of four different speeds on my lathe, directed by V-belt driven wheels. That is, until I remembered that I have installed a variable frequency drive on the lathe just two days ago... :) Now I can try that one as well! Thanks for all the information, helping out small-time hobby machinists like me! (Still jealous about the power cross-feed though...)

[@davidbastow5629]

To line up the two bores, line up the smaller one with the pin first, then take the pin out of the quill and clamp it to the table somehow. Then just tappy-tap the larger bore to 'rotate' it to the right position. Similar to your rotary table solution, but without needing one. (Apologies if you thought of this and discounted it for some logistical reason)

[@clydedecker765]

Quinn, its always a joy to watch your machinations. As a boy, I always wondered how guys like Henry Ford et al managed to come up with that first engine .. and all the associated inventions it took. In your head is one thing but to actually make it work ..WOW. You help me make those transitions. Thank you for showing the ways you can fumble and make it out of your own messes.

[@MonkeyWithAWrench]

I've got to say, you're doing an amazing job of machining this engine. I've got a PM #4 casting kit waiting for me in the other room, that's a project for winter though. Thanks for document your build, I'll for sure be stealing a few ideas and techniques from you! Subscribed!

[@DelisonJunio]

Nice to see my machining/cool stuff channels are all syncing up on Saturday :)

[@richb419]

Hi Quinn, as a hobbyist the way I center on a boss is take an end-mill slightly smaller than the boss, center by eye and then take a light cut. then adjust if necessary. this came after messing up many times! Nice video Rich

[@GilgaFrank]

Really looking forward to seeing this completed and running next week

[@tomblough3257]

5 threads showing on the pipe tap should be the correct depth. Machinery's Handbook lists the "projection" distance. That is the actual tap depth you need and you can just use that if you have a DRO on your Z. Otherwise, set your calipers to that dimension and measure up from the end of the tap and count the number of threads that should show (should be around 5). Projection for 1/8-27 NPT is 0.312".

[@JohnBodoni]

Quinn, I've got a good friend that's a patternmaker and machinist from Kansas and I used to hang out with him at his shop. Watching that genius work and listening to him talk about what he was doing and why he was doing it this way instead of that way was very educational. Your videos are very reminiscent of those good times to me. The accent is different but the vibe is the same.

[@dougwilliams2204]

Hey. Saw your misstep on dimensions and understand. Here is something that MIGHT help. I am an old-school draftsman (back from lead on paper or ink on mylar) and probably hopelessly invested in the inch system. When I see a dimension like your 3.38", my mind automatically sees 3 3/8" plus a shade over. I'd probably round off to 3 25/64" (3.90") and use a scale to rough it down to near the final dimension. Then use the depth mikes for final. Everyone's mileage is different, but even the draftsmen used rulers when they drew it out back then.

[@bernardwill7196]

Mrs. or Miss Dunki you do that right.

[@mattbergseid9196]

The most relaxing channel on you tube....plus knowledge, thanks

[@mmnyako]

Learning a lot from these series. THANKS, A LOT FOR SHARING!

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks for sharing!

[@TheUncleRuckus]

You and James always seem to upload on the same day as eachother. 😄 Thoroughly enjoyed it as usual Quinn 👍👍

[@frankjames4573]

Hey Qinn... Just working through your basic milling tutorials... great stuff... You have a knack of explaining things clearly, and in a way that numpties like me can follow! BUT... you say pencils, well they are just for the carpenters! Yes you are right, for basic carpentry, roofing, flooring and 2nd fix... etc ... However, I'm a retired wood worker, and in my shop, I use a scalpel when doing fine limit woodwork. I work to very fine tolerances as I make small stuff... Anyway, nothing to do with stupid cylinders... lol Frank... PS. Could you move next door to me in the UK please... !!! You can then set my stuff up... when ya finished, you can always move back... no big deal, eh?

[@davidtaylor6124]

Good stuff, as always! It seems a weird design decision to put the end cap screw hole in line with the steam port when there was plenty of space to rotate the whole pattern so the holes either side of it. That screw is going to be prone to rust, but so it goes. You did a damned good job getting the casting aligned on the faceplate!

[@adamlukasik8319]

something I do to avoid that same mistake, having made it myself a few times, is to re-write my measurements in an expected format and then use "Ø" instead of "0" anywhere i've added unnecessary precision. for instance 3.38" would become 3.38Ø. I'll sometimes change fractional Measurments to the way i read a tape too, 5/8ths becomes 1/2+1/8 ect. but i'll admit that's a me problem.

[@jnorris8649]

I’ve had to break the habit of crossing my zeroes- especially while writing shorthand notes. It’s so similar to the print symbol for diameter.

[@dannywilsher4165]

Your hopes came true, I found it very interesting and helpful and even entertaining. Thanks Quinn!

[@tomblough3257]

For centering on a boss, use a gage pin in the collet/chuck about the diameter of the boss or a wiggler.

[@dale5898]

I too have numeric dyslexia. It really messed me up in shop classes. But I got over it and drove a Safeway truck for 35 years. HAH !!!

[@rockytrh]

This is such a cool project. I really enjoy how you show the setups and how the work actually, well, works. It's really great to see how the sausage gets made. I don't think there is a better channel on youtube that shows you the whole process.

[@firstname2492]

Rule of thumb for pipe taps is to run the tap into the work until there is 4 to 3 threads left on the tap Nice work!

[@TheMorpheus017]

You know it's gonna be a GOOD one, when there is a faceplate on first frame

[@johnwiley8417]

14:45 Dyscalculia has whooped my butt since I was eight years old. I even started this line by typing 14:54. Writing the numbers on a rough surface (e.g. rough side of Masonite) with your fingertip can help kick you out of the line of thought you're stuck in. I keep a piece at my desk and workbench, both. Good luck!

[@henryD9363]

Wow! I think that's a very good idea. I have a lifelong serious problem of remembering proper nouns: names of people or places if I just hear it or read it. Very difficult a lot of times, even if I repeat it in my head. But if I write it down I will remember it.

[@penguiin12]

@@henryD9363 have you tried just remembering it correctly?

[@jerseyjoe2684]

@@penguiin12 lol It doesn't work that way

[@penguiin12]

@@jerseyjoe2684 lol yeah i was just fuckin with you

[@d00dEEE]

You need to get some depleted uranium slugs to use as counterweights. 😁 You're welcome.

[@thigtsquare950]

@14:56 I have your same problem. Frequently I have to ask for help weather I wrote the numbers right. When I first arrive to Ottawa, I could not distinguish between hwy 417 or hwy174 for the first year. I know it sucks, but you are not alone. Keep the good work!

[@crackedemerald4930]

This reminds me, today i modified my little lego steam engine a bit to support a 2x bigger piston. The cylinder doesn't need to be as thick anymore because i learned to seal the gaps with tape, so i used the extra cylinder thickness to add an extra wide piston. It should theoretically have 2x the torque, and maybe less turbulence losses because of the studdy passages

[@howder1951]

Nice work Quinn with all that fancy figuring it came out great. Enjoyed, cheers!

[@ego73]

3:58 Clampy-clamp-clamp after tappy-tap-tap.

[@Jeroendorrestein]

Great job, very interesting to see you pushing the limits of fabrication on your hobby machines

[@iangriffiths9840]

You may find it advantageous to ensure that all dimensions on the drawings are to 3 decimal places. Thus, reducing the opportunity to misread.

[@v8Mercury]

Nice video. Thank you

[@AdventureswithZack]

The cylinder length will be just fine at that small error. We go for perfect but sometimes reality happens. Great work on this engine it will be beautiful and a great runner when your done

[@mauserkk98]

Looking nice .

[@DavidLindes]

15:55 - indeed, a good takeaway! Thanks for sharing that! I think it if it was me, I might add trailing zeroes to the drawing, so I see that .38 as .380, reducing risk of seeing it as .038. Dunno if the same would work for you... but hence your point: knowing _one's own_ cognitive weaknesses: super valuable! Thanks!

[@PatrickPoet]

thank you

[@robertconklin3322]

Most Excellent and informational, thank you

[@frankpresley494]

Never underestimate the usefulness of change gears. Really Impressed.

[@jacobbellwood6184]

Many years ago when I had my hi gauge layout there was roughly 8 axles that always wanted to derail on one spot. Although the spot was checked and set to gauge plus a couple of thou over gauge, I had made a collet to put the axles into the lathe, the by memory I had set the angle to 4 degrees on the cross and the wheel profile, I don't remember the angle for the flange but after all the axles were turned, there were no derailments on any of the layout and on another person's layout. By memory before I turned the axles, the angle of the wheel profile seemed to be 0 degrees. The 12 inch to the foot gauge scale is that there's 2 angles for the wheel surface so to try and scale down to ho 1:87 is right near impossible so setting to 4 degrees for the most part working out the maths to in general the sizing is not a bad thing

[@toolbox-gua]

Looking so good!

[@liveuk]

Just an idea for centering on a cast bose. Take a photo of the cast then you can do all these markings on the pc before printing a template out from the pc.

[@KX36]

Knowing this number transposition thing might come up in the future, perhaps the best preventive action would be that every time you have a drawing to work from, before doing anything just go over it and add trailing zeros to 3 decimal places so you always see 0.38 as 380 thou, not 38 thou

[@hpevans9041]

Excellent work and I admire your honesty. I have a similar issue with numbers, it certainly keeps you focused 😀

[@dragade101]

Depending how many times you want to locate a casting detail, specifically just to eye up a centre of a circle: could you make a carbide tool that makes a fine circle (something you will machine away later) but showing you how the casting is lined up in the mill/lathe. Thus you are not fully drilling into the casting but know if you need to move over 0.5mm.

[@ssboot5663]

I too love watching you build things! keep up the nice work.

[@jakecanter06]

I *love* this series.

[@guyinagarage571]

I love the slo-mo camera!! Do that again! :) Great video, you're inspiring me to dust off my old Myford and make some chips :) Oh, and learn how to use the mill I bought last year. "Metric horns of victory".... LOL.

[@WayneCook306]

Thank you Quinn Nice Job as always.

[@DavidPlass]

I, too, wondered why you didn't use the rotary table. Glad I was right!

[@JaredAF]

I love your videos

[@antonioachilescastro4458]

Great video! I was told over 25 years ago that the “rule of thumb” for NPT taps is 5 to 6 threads showing on the tap. Always worked for me.

[@terrytopliss9506]

Lovely job Quinn.👍👍