Main Spindle Gear - A Design Change You Are Going to Like !!!

[@ellieprice363]

Guess I’m a little slow this morning. I don’t see a need for a setscrew through the cone pulley. When the bull pin is engaged drive is direct. When disengaged gear and cone are independent. Why the setscrew against the shaft that could possibly mar it? What am I missing? Thanks.

[@joepie221]

This is a good question because I bet many don't truly understand what is really going on here. The large spindle gear is responsible for turning the spindle at all times. This is a fact. However, that gear can produce 2 different ranges of speed. One direct, and one in back gear. When your machine ( or this machine ) is in high range, the bull pin ( set screw ) is engaged into the cone pulley. So every time the cone pulley spins, the large gear does the exact same thing. When you engage back gear, you do 2 things. You advance the rear back gear shaft to engage both the small and large gears on the spindle, and you pull the bull pin ( 'unloosen' the set screw ). Now the magic happens. As the belt turns the cone pulley, that rotation is translated to the smaller gear on the spindle that is pressed into the cone pulley. That smaller gear now turns the larger gear on the back gear shaft. The smaller gear on the other end of the back gear shaft now turns the large gear on the spindle at a different rate than the cone pulley is spinning. Thus producing a slower RPM and higher torque. You may have to read this a few times to get it, but its a very clever design. And if you noticed, I have a receiver flat on my spindle for the spindle gear set screw so it will never mar the spindle, and allow for easy disassembly. Great question. Thanks.

[@ellieprice363]

@@joepie221 Thanks, I sort of get it but it did take a few readings to understand what’s happening. The setscrew with shaft flat is to insure that the cone and shaft turn as one unit while the back gear is engaged, right? Funny I don’t recall needing to tighten and “unlooosen” setscrews though the cones of the many SouthBends and Logan’s that I operated over the years but my memory at 87 is not what it used to be. Indeed, the arrangement was a very clever design. Thanks again.

[@ArmchairDeity]

@Joe Pieczynski - can I try? There’s a gear on each end of the cone pulley. One is engaged by the reverse drive we milled and installed a few vids ago. One is the big drive pulley we installed today. When the set screw is engaged through the drive pulley the mill is in “normal operations”. But you can disengage that set screw and toggle the reverse drive system to engage the small pulley at the narrow end of the cone. It’s an either/or situation: either the back drive lever engages the small gear, or the belt drive is locked to the big gear, but that big gear is always locked to the main shaft. If you engage neither the lathe is effectively in neutral. If you try to engage both… well… look out for shrapnel. Lol

[@RonParker]

@@ellieprice363 In normal operation, you wouldn't mess with the set screw that engages the spindle shaft. You only need to mess with it at assembly. On your full-scale South Bend, that was likely a key or a spline that you never even saw. Here's the parts list for an Atlas 10-F (just because my dad had one, so those are the manuals I have bookmarks for.) vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/18335.pdf On the bottom of the last page you see the spindle assembly. The gear Joe has been working with here is, essentially, the part numbered 10-241. If you look below and to the right of that gear, you'll see a #15 Woodruff key. That key does, on the Atlas, what this setscrew does on Joe's model. Joe mentioned during the video that he couldn't use a key because of the way it's assembled. On the Atlas, that wasn't a problem, because it had split Babbitt bearings so you could just disassemble the bearings and drop the spindle in fully assembled. Or, on the model pictured here, the Timken bearings went in last so there was plenty of clearance for the key when you inserted the spindle into the headstock.

[@2lefThumbs]

@@ellieprice363 I think Joe's talking about two setscrews. The one that he's fitted here is acting like a key to fix the large gear to the shaft (it's just convenient to place it where he has) and I think this will be permanent. If it wasn't for this set screw, both the cone and gear would spin around the shaft. The second set screw (that I think he is talking about) is to lock the cone and gear together, so the cone moves the gear. (Rather than going through the rest of the gear box)

[@robertoswalt319]

It is a testament to your ethics that you are building this lathe so that every component functions as it would on a full sized version. This attention to detail will not be lost with your army of wolf spider machinists that you are raising. Thanks for sharing this series with us so we can learn techniques we wouldn't have known before.

[@joepie221]

Glad to do it.

[@allanharris4492]

Great job Joe, I have restored old machine tools that have that exact same hole in the pulley for that very purpose. Some even have threaded plugs in that are blended with a file to hide them, can lead to interesting disassembly .

[@joepie221]

A miniature headed screw as a plug would be a nice touch.

[@g.tucker8682]

I found the title of this video to be spot on! That's the right solution to this design error. I would suggest adding a second setscrew in the bull gear hub, at 90 degrees to the first one. This gives maximum grip to the shaft (more than double what a single screw provides), and is standard practice in model engineering.

[@donteeple6124]

Absolutely love the way you solved this dilema. Simple, easy and to the point. Why make things harder than they already are. Score another one for Joe !!!!!!!!

[@davidwillard7334]

FOR !! CHEATING !!

[@rchristie5401]

Surgical Instrument design. Well, that makes sense. Would love to see some of the things that you have created for that field.

[@Thats_Mr_Random_Person_to_you]

Yh I was about to comment that same thing! Might be nice to have a vid just explaining what his background is and stuff he used to do

[@joepie221]

Search out Joe Pieczynski Patents. That would be just the tip of the iceberg, but you'd get some idea.

[@rchristie5401]

@@joepie221 WOW! What an honorable profession you chose, Joe. The mind that imagines a device, is lost if they can not find the mind that can create it. I wonder how many people watch your videos, that have been in contact with any of your patents... and dont know it. Awesome.

[@sartori2226]

I love this series not just for mini lathe itself, but for all of the mini tools, the endmills, drillbits, T-slots, boring bars, so cute, tiny and fragile

[@tobyjsands8330]

Always impressed. Every single time.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@johnwiley8417]

Cool resolution for a flakey design element. Impossible designs seem to come from engineers (and draftsmen) that don't have shop floor experience, which I wouldn't have expected from a hobby casting producer. Joe, could you please explain to my better 1/3 (I'm a big guy) that I'm not nuts for exclaiming "No Joe, the other 90°" several times around 28:28?

[@kennethnevel3263]

I have a oil hole in my cone pulley and I put a some gasket sealer on the set screw that seals the oil hole so that no oil comes out and gets on the belt , the hole does not affect the belt tracking, been working this way for over a 100 years .

[@michaelrandle4128]

Absolutely beautiful Joe. Can’t wait to see it all assembled, it would look nice along side Mr Pete’s model milling machine, regards from the UK

[@joepie221]

I may have to arrange a photo session.

[@KimbrellBrad]

Really takes patience to be as careful as you are with not scratching the parts. Learning a lot about things like this!

[@joepie221]

These parts are so small and soft they can easily be damaged by the fixture or handling. Absolutely.

[@kevinh.9068]

That's what I like about seeing someone else do the same project it gives better understanding of part production from some plans, because I assumed that the hole in the back of the drive pully, was what you used to lock the gear to the pully. I didn't realize that it was supposed to spin independently at first until I tried to put it together. Those gears didn't like that. Also love what that sandblaster does to your parts makes them look great. Excellent work!

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I too am learning a lot about the design as I go.

[@toolbox-gua]

I’m liking everything. Keep it “clickspringing” and stay safe.

[@joepie221]

I would be flattered to think Chris is watching too.

[@jamesdavis8021]

Chris is pretty amazing.His work is impeccable

[@joeziegler9054]

That's why you make the BIG money! lol. Great job Joe! We used to do these kind of angled holes in brass valves. It was always an eyeball thing there was really no way to set these up with an angle finder. We wasted so many castings until we finally got it right. As always enjoyed the video and waiting for the next one to see what you have up your sleeve. Take care from SC.

[@ianhand4845]

Joe as a retired learning model engineer I have really appreciated your series, your explanation and your craftsmanship. Greetings from Australia

[@joepie221]

Thank you. Greetings from Texas USA

[@davidwillard7334]

AND !! HIS !! CHEATING !! TOO !!

[@iron_jonesy]

Hey Joe, late to the party! great series, and a great design change, much better! Hole in the cone is perfect. Full size machines this age have an oil hole exactly there to lube the cone on the spindle. Looks great.

[@user3141592635]

@17:18. When you are unscrewing something and you feel the steel is "floating", getting into yield that is, you have to stop and think things over, before you proceed. It is a feeling of how the torque does not lineary match the angle of rotation. It most often floats before it snaps. On a hardened threading-tap, there are no warning-signs at all however.

[@ChrisB257]

That modification is innately logical - like it a lot. More super work Joe, :)

[@johnfriend240]

My South Bend has a similar hole in the cone pulley for oiling the cone when in back gear. Yours can serve a similar purpose!

[@kennethnevel3263]

The redesign on the bull gear is a great idea, wider hub , square set screw angle to shaft, the way it needs to be . That angled set screw would never driven the shaft unless the shaft was spotted to match the set screw , point of set screw to shaft contact would have just cut a notch in the shaft under load and slip, plus it might tilt the gear some or push it to the side and cause a binding issue .

[@joepie221]

The room is there to easily do this. I hope PM Research is paying attention. Its a much better design.

[@davidapp3730]

When reassembling plastic parts turn the self tapping screw backwards to find the start of the old thread.

[@pacman10182]

good practice in general.

[@angrydragonslayer]

@@pacman10182 yeah,will do some good even with normal screws but it's really good if you work with taps often

[@jdmccorful]

Beautifully precise work. Love that feel.Thanks for the look.

[@Dieselfitter01]

Very nice drive as tiny as it is. Thank you Joe.

[@paulg3336]

Surgical instrument design you say? As I mentioned before, my old lathe is a full size example of this type of lathe which I bought off a coworker when I worked in the electronics dept. of a hospital. The spindle shaft and bronze bearings were worn out ,so I had my friends in the precision engineering dept, of the hospital make a new shaft and bearings. The precision engineering dept. made specialist tools for the surgeons. They had a nice collection of high precision machine tools and had a craftsman cutler employed with them who made hand instruments such as haemostats. They also made large devices like an automated X-ray viewer and a indexible X-ray bed.

[@joepie221]

I have an extensive background in orthopedic instrument design and fabrication for Knee, hip and spine procedures. Knees would be my strongest field.

[@michaelryan6884]

Very nice fix and great resolution of a potential deadly problem. Keep it up, Joe!

[@RalfyCustoms]

Wonderful as always Joe, thank you for more thinking out of the box solutions Big love to you and yours Ralfy

[@euclidallglorytotheloglady5500]

Perfect solution!! A 30° pin is a pretty large ask on such a thin part as it is, let alone one that's going to be driving the spindle.. I hope PM is taking notes! 👍🏼 When you get the steam pumping I'm praying you spend a good amount of time making chips! BTW.. That toothpick size boring bar looks like it would also make the prefect ID tool for this lathe. 😉 Fantastic as always!

[@joepie221]

I may have to rig something up for the .025 bar. That would be awesome.

[@joemiller5110]

I like the thinking Outside -Of-The-Box. Thanks again Joe

[@timmer9lives]

I think that’s a super modification for the hub and set screw. Plus, now you have an oil access hole for your hub. You’re going to need to oil it if you turn that matchstick. This is such a cool build.

[@joepie221]

Did someone say oil? Stick around.

[@brianmoore1164]

Just freaking genius!! Love it! I have never used one of those very small boring bars before. Sometime when it is convenient would you give us a few minutes about them? Depth of cut stuff, speed stuff. I imagine they are crazy easy to break and would like to know more.

[@jaybailey3518]

I can't wait to see the live center, chuck key, carriage stop, taper attachment. steady and follow rests...wait for it.....the nano-sized functioning DRO !!!!!!!!

[@fredcreer1929]

Did you forget the coolant?.

[@joepie221]

I'm thinking a miniature work light would look cool.

[@davidwillard7334]

YOU !! FORGOT !! THE !! METAL !! SHREADDER !!

[@magiclarry7688]

That tiny boring bar is amazing.

[@CorbinMusso88]

You sound like my wife.

[@joepie221]

It doesn't get used very often, but I'm glad I have it when I need it.

[@ArmchairDeity]

Thanks Joe, these series are my lifeline till I can get out of this infernal apartment and into something with working space! I appreciate these vids more than you know.

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Great direction to take that component, it makes the most sense. Thanks for sharing Joe Cheers

[@DMargeson37]

Great idea. could also thread the access hole in the cone pulley and plug it to keep out debris.

[@stratocaster1greg]

That looks like the spindle I made for my Craftsman 109 lathe. Thanks for sharing, beautiful work!

[@rexmyers991]

Wow! A very good solution. Thanks for the lesson, Joe

[@phillipbailey6228]

I'm very impressed with ur work this is something iv never seen done before thank u for letting me watch just waiting for u to use it.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much!

[@steamdaysstoker]

Joe, I had a flat belt lathe which had a hole with set screw in the crown of the pulley for lubrication purposes, it did not affect the running of the flat belt.

[@dieselgypsy1100]

A setscrew on an angle is always a compromise based on desperation and lack of imagination. I'm glad to see you come up with a MUCH better design! The big gear will also stay much straighter (solider?) on the shaft with the longer hub. I like it!

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing! Great idea!

[@hoppercar]

Good fix....but I think I would have put the tapped hole in the gear, inline with the bull gear pin, tapped hole, so you kinda have a visual reference for when the hole is in position to get the Allen wrench in ?.....

[@joepie221]

Dealers choice.

[@davidwillard7334]

THE !! PIE !! MAN !! LIKES !! CHEATING !!

[@TheRunereaper]

Just a quick question on terminology. In the US you seem to use the word "setscrew" for what we in the UK call a "grubscrew", usually a socket-headed retaining screw which sits in a recess. The UK version of "setscrew" is usually reserved for a standard hex head bolt with the smooth shank threaded for the entire length of the bolt and frequently fitted with a nut at the other end. I've looked on the web but can't find a satisfactory answer. Q. What is the US name for a fully threaded standard bolt?

[@larrymunday7519]

Fully threaded, look up McMaster Carr and go through the drill down menu (great website).

[@dalemcinnes1834]

All I can tell you is on the old machinery they use to have a long threaded bolt where appropriate. It was threaded all the way as you said but it had a square head on the bolt. I believe it was no bigger than the size of the bolt. I will have to check that as I still have some of them. I don't know what the proper name is for them but we always called them a set screw bolt. Dale in Canada

[@TheRunereaper]

@@dalemcinnes1834 Thanks Dale. I don't know if you will get this reply as YT doesn't seem to be recording them. Anything with a thread on it seems to cause all kinds of confusion. Setscrew, grubscrew, setpin, stud bar, allthread, capscrew all seem to have varying meanings in different parts of the world.

[@TheRunereaper]

@@larrymunday7519 Thanks Larry, I posted a reply but it seems to have vanished.

[@TheEvertw]

Nice work! I think the way the gear holds the spindle is much better this way.

[@joepie221]

I think so too!

[@davidwillard7334]

CHEATING !! TOO !! MUCH !!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Joe, That was a good design change... good work as always, so nothing much else to say other than well done and thank you. Take care. Paul,,

[@BeeGeeTheImp]

Polish up that second domed pulley (3/4" dia.) again, please. My OCD is nagging me. ;)

[@5tr41ghtGuy]

Love your design change. I think the extra width afforded by the gear hub will ensure that the gear runs true as well. Great video!

[@Smallathe]

Very very neat and clean design. Lovely!

[@glenncpw]

It is apparent if you have run old lathe, how this works. My first lathe ( which I learned on, no apprenticeship) was a Greenwood & Batley, which was from the time of centre shaft from a steam engine (probably). It was configured the same as the model. Thanks Joe, another great video. I truly am enjoying this series...

[@davidwillard7334]

JUST !! MORE !! CHEATING !! HERE !!

[@ngauge22]

Excellent correction of design. Nice work as always.

[@drawbar217]

Good call on the hidden set screw, my logan is done the same way so no foul. If it was driven in at the oblique angle it would introduce side thrust which would mess with your axial clearances. When you get this all done show us your magnifiers and optical comparators and jewelers tools that you really used!! Hay Hud out.

[@kurtarmbrust]

As soon as I saw the needed set screw, I yelled at my phone "drill the pulley." I'm glad you heard me. Now you need to register a change order with the manufacturer!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for yelling.

[@infoanorexic]

My old Mueller has oiling holes in the cone pulley, one in the largest and one in the smallest, tapped for plug screws. It rolls just fine when it's disengaged from the bull gear, and no sign of real wear. I assume they used phosphor bronze for bearings, like they did for the spindle-headstock. I can't see/imagine any problem with that arrangement as long as oil isn't slung out and onto the belt. Hard to believe, but I do have the upper cone pulley that was used with that lathe in it's original setup. I plan to integrate it back into the drive system. The current setup allows infinite speed control, which is nice, but the pulleys needed to get any kind of speed out of it also takes a lot of torque out of it, making it too easy to stall at really slow turning speeds. I'll need that torque if I ever work on something that is near to the lathe's capacity in size.

[@mrc1539]

Joe, my Logan lathe has a hole in the center of the conical pulley with a set screw for oiling the shaft and has been working fine since the 1950’s . I dint think you will have in problem with the belt, and I think that was the right choice.

[@metalgeria]

I always wait and enjoying watching doing your works, i'm a big fan of you Mr Joe, Good luck ♥️

[@joepie221]

Many thanks.

[@greasydot]

Nicwly done Joe.. My 9 inch SB has an oil hole with a plug for the back gear spindle in the 2nd pulley and it doesn't effect it one bit.

[@roadshowautosports]

I love the idea of the small hole outside to access the set screw in the drive gear. One thing I couldn’t understand was why you didn’t do the 1.2 mm hole with both parts assembled and engaged then disassembled them and finish the hole for the set screw having a perfect pilot hole? That would line up perfectly in an easier manner as far as I can see. Thank you! ❤❤❤

[@joepie221]

The plans called for a very oblique set screw hole there. I believe my modification is much better. Setting the alignment of the holes could be done a variety of ways including the approach you suggest.

[@terryberger8992]

Joe, could you have drilled the brass gear set screw hole and the pully together for alignment of the hole instead of using you DRO numbers?

[@joepie221]

Absolutely.

[@davidwillard7334]

BRAINLESS !! D.R.O !! TWITS !!

[@ridetheapex]

Amazing work! Your workarounds are so obvious once you explain them it is funny how the design team missed it in production. Lol

[@cavemaneca]

That's a nice design change, one worth keeping in mind if I ever build this kit.

[@joepie221]

You should. Its much easier and stronger.

[@lennym1273]

That is a great idea never would have thought of that...

[@marcp1180]

.025 boring bar, dude, you are nuts!! Thanks to machinists like you, this world can revolve. If it were me, those scary parts like this one (which would be locked solid with the pully) would all be compromised. Lack of tooling and LACK of knowledge. Even my dad fudged on many items such as these. Keep up the great work.

[@dennythomas8887]

After seeing what the print called out was for that set screw (35*) that you brilliantly redesigned, I starting wondering how many hobby machinist's have ruined that part trying to comply with the print.

[@joepie221]

I bet quite a few. Off in either the angle or starting point and its over. This is a much safer approach. I hope PM Research changes the print. (and gives me credit of course )

[@maxmirot9460]

Looks like we just have the apron to finish. I wonder if you will able to cut something when it is done,

[@andybelcher1767]

Stunning Joe, you are absolutely correct (as always), I like it! I would however have liked to see you machine the spindle, particularly boring the taper with that tiny boring bar on stainless.

[@paulcooper2897]

Looking great, and another great solution. Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦

[@michaelrobison25]

Your comment about dirt getting in where oil (or hex wrenches) can get in makes me think that a belt turning over an access hole might pack dirt and debris into the hole. Could you possibly devise a plug of some kind? Maybe a shouldered screw into a recess around the access hole? Anyway, great video and build!

[@mitchellbixby9696]

? Did you consider that the angled set screw would act as a force to hold the shaft from moving forward

[@joepie221]

If anything, it would have pushed the gear forward at assembly and locked it up. The small gear on the end of the spindle is on the outside of the head stock casting and should be a sufficient retainer for the spindle. Now, its just triple strong.

[@craigsuslosky3974]

Great solution, as always, fantastic work! And I cant even imagine a .025 boring bar lol

[@mrtomsr]

Regarding your “grit” comment, I am facetiously wondering why no threaded cap to cover that hole. Awesome detailing as always, too many times I have felt a tap go squishy.

[@pacman10182]

like the little plugs that fill scope base holes in rifles?

[@daveticehurst4191]

Super job Joe, well done. Perhaps on final assembly you could plug the pulley hole with a piece of cocktail stick to keep dirt and belt rubber out. Should you need to access the grub screw again, it can easily be picked / drilled out. Or a small blob of PVA glue/ silicone, anything easily removed if need be. Stay Safe. Regards from Australia.

[@joepie221]

Hi Dave. For now, I'll leave it open. If I were to start using this machine, I'd drill and tap that hole for a set (grub) screw.

[@martinmoeller9186]

Or a toothpick end amount of silicone caulk would form a plug that could be pulled if access to the set screw was ever needed. Really enjoying the series, there is the occasional 'reset' moment when a giants hand enters the frame. Very easy to forget the scale of this when only the parts are visible. A 3 jaw chuck would be cherry on top, "just" use a bigger one with a pantograph to scale the scroll to mouse turd size.

[@DDBerlin]

great addition,Joe!

[@1crazypj]

I had an old belt drive mill that had similar set up holding flat pulley (3 step). Tapping brass can be more difficult than tapping steel, I tend to use taper to start then use bottoming tap as it's only cutting on the end instead of along length as a taper will on relatively deep hole (1mm~2.5mm taps)

[@warrenjones744]

Joe I would have like to seen the spindle turning. How did you do the tapers? Taper pin reamer? That's how I think I would do it. Then you have a ready made source of centers. Oh, and.., the cone pulley mod was in my mind a good choice, flat belt pulleys have holes in em all the time for various reasons, No harm there.

[@joepie221]

I bored the tapers in the head and tailstock spindles.

[@davidwillard7334]

ON !! YOUR !! NOSE !??

[@roberthiggins1142]

Very well thought out, I hope you don't loose too much sleep over that idea, it looks like it will work out great.

[@joepie221]

I think its a step in the right direction.

[@BensWorkshop]

Good upgrade.

[@robertpearson8798]

Agree, very nice modification. The set screw should also grip better on the spindle at a right angle rather than on oblique one.

[@raymondhorvatin1050]

Thanks for sharing

[@austinallmond7211]

The feeling of a tap twisting ALWAYS makes the hair on the back of my neck stand on end.

[@russellmcclenning9607]

Great fix Joe

[@samrodian919]

A much better solution to the original Joe. Nicely thinking out of the box. Let's hope that PM Research are as generous with the brass gear stock with all the kits as they were with you! I am sure they thought out your solution and decided that it was too easy and went on the angled set screw to make it harder lol

[@joepie221]

I was glad I had enough material to do this. Its a better setup.

[@russkepler]

Very nice modification for the lathe. I'd love to see that show up on PM's plans someday. I was wondering why you didn't use a taper pin reamer for the center tapers? Perhaps I missed that point in an earlier video.

[@ellieprice363]

Guess I’m a little slow this morning. I can’t see a need for the setscrew through the cone. When the bull pin is engaged the drive is direct. When it’s out the gear and cone rotate independently. Why lock the setscrew to the shaft and possibly mar it? What am I missing? Thanks

[@joepie221]

I could have, but its a personal challenge to bore something that precise and small.

[@josephengel3665]

I wonder if their is a model for a mini Mill...?

[@jameskerns717]

www.pmmodelengines.com/product-category/machine-tools/machine-models/

[@DonDegidio]

Hi Joe, Another good design change.The assembly looks great. What's next on the list? You and the family stay safe.

[@byronwatkins2565]

I like it Joe! I was skeptical that an oblique set screw would stay tight reliably; maybe with Loctite. Between two teeth of the gear might be another option, but that would weaken the teeth. I suppose you could plug the hex key hole if debris is a problem.

[@stumccabe]

Excellent design change.

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@philgarbarini9645]

Thanks for the time you spend making and sharing your projects. I realize this is just a model, but what would keep the 1-72 bull pin from moving during use?

[@jimrichey5919]

Fastener and oiling holes do go through the of of the pulley crowns on a old hendey lathe I used to own.. so there is no accuracy in design failure if you do choose to go that way Joe..

[@MrCrispinEnterprises]

Nicely done

[@joepie221]

Thanks Crispin ! Always good to get your approval. You're a sharp guy.

[@terrycannon570]

Love it

[@davidkarath6549]

Did you make the clamps for your mini pallet ?...very nice job...as usual !

[@halfnelson6115]

Great video. I always learn something new from your vids.

[@mchiodox69]

excellent solution

[@davidwillard7334]

FOR !! CHEATING !! THAT !! IS !!

[@christophkoppe2528]

There might be an alternative way to adress the problem of the set screw. Let me know what you think of it: I am looking at the drawing on the right side at minute 1:32. If you 1.) add a boss on the right side just as you did and 2.) skip the tripan just as you did, you then can move the whole set screw to the right (away from the spindle nose) until there is enough material on the left and righthand side of the screw. Yes, the hole where you insert the allen key will move towards the outer diameter of the gear but there is enough space (if you align the tap and the ball pin away from each other). Would this work or do you see any issues in machining/assembly? Of course, angled set screws are more "fun" when adjusting the play of something ;-)

[@erikisberg3886]

Nice job, Your changes resulted in a much improved design. I dislike 45 deg setscrews. The hole in the cone pulley is ok, my Scaublin lathe has a small hole in the drive cone as well...

[@chuirios365]

Great idea Joe! So yesterday my pediatrist had to remove half of my left foot due to infection. My second third toe are infected. And my big toe had bone protruding. This is due to a bout with diabetes. I've gone through this situation on my right foot. So now I can only count to ten! Hehehe!🤕 I don't mind telling people to bring awareness to examining there feet periodically, watching there sugar intake. I'm in good spirits these were the cards I was dealt!

[@highpwr]

So sorry to hear that Chui. I've been dealing the same issue for a couple of years now and know where you are coming from. Keep fighting brother. Don't let that #@~*^` A1C get the better of you! I'm right there with you.

[@joepie221]

You've been dealt some really bad hands lately Chui. Glad to see they aren't taking you out.

[@SuperMouseHouse]

Great work, beautiful! Where do you get your micro-sized boring bars?

[@paulmorrey733]

Thanks Joe

[@Tasarran]

I understand the need for a set screw here; wouldn't a keyed shaft locked into the gear have worked as well?

[@joepie221]

Using a key would lock the gears to the shaft full time. The Set screw is only used when the back gear shaft is moved into position for a much lower spindle speed range..