Major Engine Problems... Day One | Testing Engine and Taking out Oil Pan | Part 2

[@stephenrobinson5949]

okay guys good for you for trying... i AM a professional licensed mechanic from canada so here goes; first of all, dont feel bad about your uncertainty....it takes 5 years of training to be a starting mechanic and then the learning really begins. heres my take. if the body is good, and you dont hate the truck, then the engine is always worth fixing. I agree however with several others who have commented. bring it to a shop and pay to have a complete inspection. find out if there is anything else wrong....how are the brakes, the tires, the body, the suspension, the transmission, does the AC work. if the rest of the truck is good then it makes a lot of sense to repair that engine or put a new one in. most engines can be changed in the 10 to 12 hr range. maybe a low milage used engine? price a crate engine from ford? price a rebuilt unit? on another note: the hunting idle idle (up and down idle speed) was a common problem with that engine and was solved by cleaning the throttle body and the idle air control motor pintle and seat. your compression readings dont seem that bad in my opinion for a couple of reasons. as you get to the last few, your battery is getting lower on charge and so the engine is not turning over fast enough. also, you should always hold your foot to the floor doing a compression test for 2 reasons; one, to allow as much air as possible and 2, in wide open throttle on crank the fuel injectors will not be triggered ( this is called " clear flood") and you dont want to be washing down those cylinder walls with gas by continued cranking during a compression test. the egr codes are probably a build up under the egr valve seat and in the intake passageway behind the EGR valve. if you were closer to me in northern ontario, i could give you a hand with that rough running. on another note; I have been watching your videos for quite a while and have enjoyed watching you grow in your skills and as a couple. I have used your videos to show my "tech classes" that I teach to my high school students so keep up with that great work.

[@JadenZeCreator]

This reply helped me thanks

[@mackendw]

great comment! kudos to your sane approach to someone learning as they go.

[@RXRSawdustStation]

If you can read that manual and follow instructions, you could rebuild that engine yourself, Dylan. With the exhaust manifold and oil pan removed you're only a few steps away from having it dismantled, for a ring and valve job. Only the heads, intake manifold and dropping the pistons remain...IF you're only going to do a valve and piston ring rebuild, that is. You can do the rings while a shop is rebuilding the heads. You're doing great, Team #Woodbrew! Thanks for a excellent video!

[@mpmfr]

Dylan, if the air is truly bypassing the intake valves when their fully seated in the compression stroke you might get away with just having a valve job done by a machine shop on that one cylinder head bank, that process will come with other incidental parts that will have to be replaced like the head gasket and head bolts. Definitely not the end of the world type stuff and not something you should get rid of the truck over. I think these speed bumps fit FixItFeb perfectly. Sometimes the renewal of something is not easy but the reward (and piece of mind of keeping something out of the landfill) can be satisfying, something that I can speak to personally on many levels. Regarding the upper radiator hose, that “spring” typically preinstalled is designed to keep the hose from collapsing. In my experience Chilton and Hynes manuals haven’t ever been known for their their completeness. With the age of the vehicle, you may have some luck, possibly on web forums, finding a Ford Service Manual, far better, and use the Chilton’s as fire starting material for your fire pit (productive way to repurpose 😉). As a long time “car guy” myself, I love this series! Keep doing what your doing!😊

[@CantKillMe]

-or just drive the junk ford until it die's

[@JayBates]

@@CantKillMe Remove the hyphen, capitalize Or and Ford, and remove the apostrophe. Other than that, you did good.

[@michellafleur5655]

Don't know much about engine but what you've done is remarquable for an amateur. No wonder why you are so good at everything you do. I'll follow you in this challenge just to encourage you and Molly. Keep up the good work.

[@Woodbrew]

Thank you Michel!

[@ActionJackson2360]

The intake valve could have so much carbon buildup that the valve won't close all the way. You could try an intake flush using seafoam upper intake cleaner. It has a long straw. You can sometimes bump the idle air control with a tool while it's running to see if the idle changes. If it does then change it. The vacuum lines get real brittle. There could even be a leak in the hvac components in the dash. They're bad about leaking right the rubber boots and elbows. I believe some parts places can test the ignition module but I don't think it's the problem. Check for carbon build-up in the distributor cap.

[@johnfithian-franks8276]

First thing is to get rid of those tassels hanging from your hoodie. You don’t work on a moving engine with things on that can get caught up in the engine an make you have an accident

[@guybowers9094]

Those Chilton manuals are really good books, they provide you with lots of good info. Also, as you know there are lots of good videos you can watch on KZbin 😆

[@justjack9561]

If you thought you felt comfortable doing a head gasket pull the head like you’re doing a head gasket take it to a shop and have them do a valve job on it and put it back on probably just weak valve springs from the age of the truck

[@mayorstoner3459]

Yay!! You can combine your skills. Just think, motorized coffee tables!!

[@Woodbrew]

We like the way you think!

[@adamchesis7443]

its not smoking, so I would think the cylinders and rings are ok, I don't think the truck is worth putting a new motor in, maybe the heads need to be reworked, but then when you do that it might give it more compression and they you start getting blow by and smoking. It's a tough call, really how much do you want to put in it, personally I would just drive it as it is and see what happens. If the motor goes bad then you either rebuild or get a reman. It's been running and driving so it might go another 50k miles, or could go bad next week, You seem like the kind of person that is gentle on your stuff I bet it lasts a long time

[@bobw9297]

It can run like that for a very very long time , add some oil additive for old motors and drive it ...

[@Woodbrew]

I had someone else suggest Seafoaming the engine. Might give that a go.

[@bobw9297]

@@Woodbrew sea foam is great stuff . just to give you an idea my van has 670 thousand klm on it

[@fiendeng]

ENGINE SWAAAAAAP !! 👏

[@djericdiesel]

There are obd1 active scanners that pole the engine repeatedly and actively makes it look like obd2 it goes up and down because it is running open loop because something is not letting close loop operate

[@prairieflyer1]

Are you doing a full restoration or just a cosmetic one if you are doing the full you have to look At the transmission,differential,wheel bearings,brakes and the engine as those will all start to Give you issues in that age of truck. My best advice is if you do not what you to fix or repair daily (Ford) look for a newer truck and have a mechanic check it over before you purchase it. Best to you both going forward

[@nordyfamily]

I have always doubted my mechanical abilities. I drive the car and watch and listen, and when I feel relatively comfortable with the car, I take it to my mechanic who is very thorough. He checks compression, where oil is leaking from and everything else for about $90. Two or three times that $90 has saved me thousands, as well as helped me buy cars that have lasted forever. Nice work.

[@Woodbrew]

I think I have too much confidence in my mechanical abilities😂

[@richardjones8236]

From my own experience . . . "I FEEL YOUR PAIN." Some people really like messing around with their vehicles. Not me any more! It just seems to be a never ending story of fix, repair, repeat. These days I buy the simplest vehicles that will get the work done and let my auto shop keep it running.

[@joemiele1296]

A chuck of carbon stuck to intake valve in not uncommon. Run a can of 44k or seafoam.

[@SilasLives1]

I like Ford trucks but they suck to work on. I had to lift and engine once on a F150 to pull the oil pan. A truck that age I would probably just drive it until it dies then you can buy a rebuilt engine if that's what you want.

[@Woodbrew]

This seems to be the consensus of everyone I've spoken with too.

[@SawDustMakerRJM]

I am not a mechanic but if air is coming out of the intake maybe it is a intake valve leaking. If so having the heads rebuilt would be less costly than an engine rebuild. I know you could remove them and take them somewhere to have them rebuilt.

[@Woodbrew]

Yup pretty sure it primarily intake valve related.

[@aubandjoe1778]

I agree, but would just buy new heads

[@H2Dwoat]

Hi, the hate you feel increases the pride you feel when you fix it 😁. Next development on the property is a fully equipped and heated mechanics workshop 😂. All jokes aside I’m impressed you have had a go but fully understand why people take it to the mechanic. Also, your driveway is partway to looking like a home mechanics - junkyard chic. Good luck guys.

[@Woodbrew]

Lol. It looks so easy watching pros do it online😂

[@brentfowler2317]

Hey y'all. I'm not knocking you in anyway. But I've always had a lot more luck with the Hanes manuals. Moreso then the Chilton Manuals.

[@ConquerorT117]

Classic mechanic phrase: "We're gonna pretend we didn't see that, and do something else that might be a waste of money and time." You're well on your way to being a full fledged mechanic. Intake valve repairs are cheaper than a new or another used pickup. Especially in this economy. Course, that said, people like to treat their trucks as trucks which is to say generally rough. Thirty years of rough treatment isn't something that can just be overlooked. Without a full inspection from someone who knows what they are doing you might be signing up for dozens of small problems only for it to die suddenly in spite of all of the work you have done.

[@jeff6277]

Not sure about the 9th gens, but I have a 10th gen that I accidentally drilled a hole into the head when trying to remove a broken exhaust manifold stud, which led to a head replacement. Ford recommends lifting the cab off the frame to do the work. You can also tear off the front end to get to most of the front components (timing chain cover, water pump, oil pump, etc…) and it leads down a rabbit hole. While you’re in there, you might as well replace a BUNCH of other components, so it ended up being more expensive than I would have liked. Again, your experience may differ, but my oopsie was a painful one.

[@jeff6277]

All that said, you’re a handy dude, Ford V8s are relatively easy to work on a easy to find parts for, so MAKE IT HAPPEN!

[@edblough4134]

My philosophy on cars. Hear a noise turn the radio up, when the noise gets louder than radio can go get a new car.😂

[@cowboybob2745]

Quick question for y'all and anybody who might know; how much would it cost to replace the engine? I've got the same truck alongside a new engine for said truck. How much would it cost a mechanic to swap it? I worked on the interior of the truck a bit and I'm hoping to get it moving. Thanks in advance

[@danielpadgett2831]

How many miles does that engine have on it?

[@Woodbrew]

Around 150k

[@danielpadgett2831]

@@Woodbrew nice I got a 95 just like yours with 330,000

[@tfraiseo]

Find a good local mechanic and pay them to give it a good once over with a list of repairs and do a diagnosis on the low compression. I have my mechanic break the list of repairs down into what must be done now and what is failing/broken but isn't critical to repair right away. It'll be worth your time and money doing that. I'm a hobby mechanic so take what I say with a grain of salt. It sounds like you have leaking intake valves. They might just be getting stuck but on a higher mileage engine I'd be more inclined to think it is worn or damaged valve seats or valves. You can take that valve cover off, turn the engine over by hand, and watch the valves as they come up. The valve should stay in constant contact with the rocker. If there is any delay, it is sticking. Hose it down with penetrating oil and it might stop sticking. I would be surprised if that is the issue but if it is that's a cheap fix. Check with an auto parts store on cylinder head, head bolts, and gaskets. I would guess cost at around $300 but that's just a guess. If that's all it takes to make it a solid running and safe truck, it is well worth doing that job.

[@scottb.2022]

I'm not sure I want to watch this. I have a '95 F250 with no serious problems, but now I'm seeing what can go wrong. Oh my.....

[@bird197196]

Rebuild it

[@adamroberts5876]

O2 sensor

[@danaowen9014]

How many miles are on the truck,that will determan weather or not you do a full motor rebuild or just a valve job. The spring is supposed to be in the radiator hose, so that it does not collaps. Dillion you are sporting the einstein hairdo.

[@vincesettipane8417]

you bought 28 years of problems

[@jameshorrocks2939]

You need a valve job.

[@dvfull56]

It sounds like it needs a vale job.

[@rickdodson5252]

Don't do a rebuild, replace the whole engine. The cost to rebuild will be more than a replacement junkyard motor.

[@Woodbrew]

Yea I've been calling around and engine rebuild is more than a remanufacturer'd one.

[@thejacobfromstateprison3886]

It’s a ford found on rollback daily lol

[@jerodlee1131]

Fix the motor, stay away from doing paint and body repairs.

[@GlockMan70]

Of course cause it's a FORD POS