How Good Is A $149 3D Printer?? | Weedo Tina2 Review

[@Rattletrap-xs8il]

As a kid to print a squadron of OD green army men. I would have killed for that. lol. Would have beat the crap out of an Atari 2600

[@photographingtime]

The reason I wanted to buy this one, is the fact that I need a small printer on my desktop to print tiny stuff. The other printers, my Artillery Sidewinder 2 pro, and an old Flash Forge Finder 2 does the heavy work, printing 24/7 at times. I love having at least on printer set up and dedicated to special types of jobs, and one for everything else. Doing this, you avoid a lot of adjustments before starting the next job, and you know it works straight away.

[@ChrisParayno]

I just got this for my kids. I'm am mighty impressed so far by just the basic prints. Can't wait to cut up more files. Definitely, the first is to print that bigger bracket to hold larger spools.

[@kalark]

i bought a Kingroon KP3S a few months ago, 169 shipped amazon prime and it's an amazing printer for the price, only 180mmx180mm buildplate but it's so easy to use and prints perfectly everytime

[@JJShankles]

You're supposed to leave the white tape on the build plate to protect it, that's why they added two extra ones in the box

[@Alliedturtle11]

How do this have no reply’s

[@chmnrd]

ABL at that price is pretty insane. I'd have a hard time recommending this over the Ender 2 Pro for a beginner. You don't get ABL, but you do get a bigger print volume. Plus the support community is much larger. It's already been on sale for around $150 (or less) and is currently $160 at my local Micro Center.

[@hexidev]

Or a ender 3 like everyone has it and its $100 and is pretty good with a lot of Community with it

[@mcyclonegt]

@@hexidev Where can you get an ender 3 for 100 bucks?

[@boasdelely1550]

@@mcyclonegt microcenter

[@TMHedgehog]

I do believe it's relatively inexpensive to slap ABL on an ender 3 too, is it not?

[@hampuswahlgren5952]

Having ABL at such a small print volume but no filament cooling fan is just plain stupid tho.

[@pirojfmifhghek566]

I'd kinda like to know about more tips for making quality 3D prints. I'd also kinda like to know more about the kinds of features you'd look for in a 3D printer, especially if you wanted a printer with an emphases on speed, consistency or higher detail. I'm guessing there are some things that would require compromise as well, but I wouldn't even know what those are.

[@lemguins7031]

lol I like your stance on using it yourself given the dimensional restrictions and what would be it's primary use. Sounds solid if you want to make figurines easily tho.

[@AriWeismanchester]

I have no experience with 3d printers and my assembly experience is Legos. I got the Ender 3 Pro from MicroCenter for $100 on sale and it’s been amazing. Building was easy. I’ve had it running almost constantly since I got it.

[@Sleighbells96]

The ender 2 comes in at about the same price and seems a lot more capable, might be worth checking out for a comparison

[@neatt3815]

It's not plug and play though.

[@Jsteri]

@@neatt3815 "Easy DIY assembly in only 4 steps In order to simplify the setup, especially for beginners, the printer is delivered 90% pre-assembled. You only have to tighten 7 screws to start printing." Well that is not that bad either tbh. Took out of ender website.

[@VinayVarsani]

@Neat t also while I get ideally its simple, the set up and building etc is part of the fun. Build it with them. Teach them how it works and how to use it. It's a great way to bond over something or get interested in something together

[@neatt3815]

@@VinayVarsani i bought an Ender 3 last year. Assembling it was easy. Troubleshooting was a massive pain. Took me a few months to be able to print something that wasn't garbage. My bed is warped to hell and the glass isn't flat. I'm printing on it okish now, but honestly? I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner.

[@VinayVarsani]

@@neatt3815 I'm not saying they're perfect.. far from it. But they don't usually come like that. Mine came pretty much spot on but there were some issues that I researched how to fix and now it prints fine 🤷🏾‍♂️ you can replace the bed and individual parts which is why it's such a good mod printer too

[@railace3815]

I bought the Tina2 (basic model) a few months ago, and it prints fine. However, it does have a few differences: -No WiFi -No more metal guard in front -Printbed is be slightly longer, at 120 mm long. (Other dimensions are the same) This printer also came with 200g of filament and a few stickers to go on the printbed to help with adhesion, which I found useless, but this printer is really great. Once I ran out of the 200g filament, I just bought a 1kg spool and had it sit there, and it still works fine.

[@wolfspleen]

My wife bought me the basic Tina2 for my birthday only 2 months ago and frankly I'm having a blast with it and am already planning on a larger printer.

[@northwiebesick7136]

I think a good video might be on how to best 3d print objects that are too big for the build plate, for instance a 10x10 inch flat panel (or anything bigger than the size of the build plate) for screwing a motherboard to... For those who can't afford a model with a bigger build plate, for instance.

[@Donnerwamp]

I do it like that: Open the model in Fusion 360, convert it to a volumetric body, cut it up into appropriately sized pieces with taps for easier allignment (don't forget some clearance!) and glue them together with epoxy/CA glue.

[@northwiebesick7136]

@@Donnerwamp I'm actually thinking about doing something like that, but slightly different, as in, gluing pieces together, then adding more pieces on top overlapping the joints, so I have a flat bed, so to speak, the size of what I'm mounting, eg: motherboard, and a flat layer underneath as well, for the custom case mounting location, in my 1998 iMac for instance... Also, I'm pretty new to CAD apps, so I'm still learning...

[@Donnerwamp]

@@northwiebesick7136 By flaps I mean it similar to puzzle pieces, but going bigger after half the thickness of the parts, so it's kind of a lite version of what you want to so. That way I still keep things mostly flat. A tiny bit of warping will always be there on flat parts, even with PLA. By adding multiple layers this will be multiplied, similar to pressing a bunch of Lego plates on top of each other.

[@northwindhighlander]

Not gonna lie, I'm buying one. Would never have given a 3d printer that cheap a single thought, but your resumé tells me that I can trust you, Mr fan printer guy.

[@chriscox9624]

I just ordered this one today before finding this video, my first printer. My brother is thinking of starting with a $400 printer lol. Total price was $224 with 1 black and 4 colored spools.

[@gosc7736]

Funny fact: This is the 4th company I see selling an identical printer under a different name. I bought mine as Gembird Gemma 3D Printer. As for the printer itself, it was my first one, it works great, despite actively using larger and more efficient printers, this little one still sits on my desk and prints test small models before its bigger brothers start mass production :D

[@KewlKiddFranchize]

That first boat was hilarious. Great video.

[@neatt3815]

To use a bigger filament roll, you could place the printer on some old books or something.

[@Arsenalarethebestclubinthepl]

Tysm

[@Arsenalarethebestclubinthepl]

You are a life saver I spent 50 pounds on extra fillament and I didn’t know how to put it since it was 1kg

[@zuzufinke4300]

A cheap spool holder you can even by at walmart, if they have it, is a papertowel holder that spins and if you find a vertical one you can but 3-4 spools on it

[@perz1val]

You can just print one...

[@simoneiorio9703]

Is very good for me, how you maintain the focus on the theme and so you can go to explore all the spectrum.

[@TheRealAlpha2]

I appreciate the bit at the end because the whole time I was wondering just how loud it was while printing. If I were to get this I might still put it in the basement even though it's not loud just to keep it where it can't be disturbed while printing and at that point the wifi would probably be of great use. As for the size I keep thinking it wouldn't be so bad if you can learn to cut your prints into smaller pieces and then you can assemble them later, kinda like Lego. Still onl the fense between this and a Monoprice, but I kinda like the fit and finish on this more despite the lack of cooling.

[@movesmatter4514]

The ender 3 pro has been as low as $100 at micro center. Imo the best bang for the buck.

[@analogicparadox]

The 3 pro is about twice what you mentioned at standard price though. This one also has integrated bed leveling, and stuff like a BLtouch would add a good 40 bucks to that price.

[@ChrisParayno]

But you have to build it

[@CaffeinatedFrostbite]

I just got my first 3d printer yesterday. Went with the artillery sidewinder x2. Mainly because size. I wanted a larger bed.

[@secondc0ming]

Good choice, I use 2 and never had any trouble with either of them.

[@pjaypender1009]

I just got one for $105. Well worth that, for sure. Great for the kids.

[@mylittleparody2277]

I still use mine. I command replacing the bed by a metalic textured one (not to have to print raft every time) but appart from that, it's a nice printer. Yes, it's slow and small, but if it's plug and play, that's what I need.

[@googlefish80]

I might buy this but I might get it just to make a few necessities. Like wall hangers or perhaps some miner replacement parts.

[@liquidboss2719]

I decided to order one of these after struggling with an Ender 3 (which I will be returning). The automatic bed leveling alone is worth it after dealing with Ender 3's often "unique" leveling, bed shape, and bed cover.

[@pbatch21]

I am in the same boat. I didn’t have a ton of time to mess around with ender 3, but am giving up on it. I got a few things to print right, but felt like I was constantly calibrating to get it right.

[@liquidboss2719]

@@pbatch21 I've been using the Tina2 for a minute now and gotten some good prints out of it. The only issue is that the print size is very limited. Other than that, it's a really easy to use and learn printer.

[@1nicube]

i have a 200$CAD (so around 150US) 3D printer and it is amazing! it is a Tronxy XY-2 PRO it have all the fancy feature like a automatic bed level, restart print, filament sensor, etc

[@1bentom1]

Have you considered getting a boom mic that sits over your head on your set? I've noticed that you're usually working right there at your desk on the set, and I promise you once you hear the difference in quality, as well as not having to wear a mic, you'll never look back.

[@FreeEnergyNerd]

at the end you can hear how loud the stepper drivers are.. i did some reading.. because I think a small printer like that has a place on the office desk.. no way!!! it seems it has the old loud stepperdrivers you cant replace because they are directly soldered on the mainboard 😞.for that price you can get a decent printer with a silent motherboard... (classic ender 3 -$100 plus 40$ for a silent motherboard... and you get the bigger heated bed and the partcooling fan for free... also all the prints i have seen have clear underextrusion,,, so its not working out of the box. and you have to do lots of tuning without the support of a big community. Luc

[@dgin09]

Endrer 3 300$ Endre3 V2 400$

[@leemaxwell5035]

I just ordered the Weefun version of this for $86 + change. I already have 3 Enders, a 3 Pro, 3 Max and 6. I thought this would be neat to see what it can do. If it ends up being crap I can always send it back.

[@ZrbdMc]

How was it?

[@leemaxwell5035]

@@ZrbdMc I never got it. I read more reviews and decided to refuse the delivery.

[@Reaperman4711]

I deeply regret buying this unit as a first printer due to the positive reviews on it--especially this one. It's an "easy beginner printer" in the same way a netbook is an "easy beginner computer." It's small and cute, but that's where "beginner" and "kid-friendly" ends. I had nothing but mechanical axis problems thanks to the poor bed-levelling physically knocking everything out of whack. It has only the most primitive adjustment options, and everything constantly works loose. I'll try 3d printing again another decade or two, since this is such a waste of time, money and space.

[@jasonjazzz5]

"Yoda"....

[@Dtr146]

My first 3D printer was a generic off-brand that I got for $125. I now have a any cubic mega zero. For 170 bucks it aint terrible

[@Panthera_Leo_]

This actually inspires me to get that one super tiny $100 resin 3d printer kit

[@Artesian_Turkey]

I bought an Anycubic Photon. Small build plate, and even low odor resin smells awful, but it's worked well so far tbh.

[@AlexDeGruven]

Man, I do not miss the complete lack of stepper noise on my Ender 3v2. When I first fired it up after decommissioning my old i3 clone and CR-10S, the difference was night and day. That looks like a much better entry to the market than the Mini Delta was. It was a great concept, but poorly executed, even for that price point.

[@ThePandabearzzz]

Videos on your favorite starter and how to upgrade/tune them would be fantastic

[@autisticChronicles360]

Great review! I have used 5 different printers overall: Ender 3 Pro (disassembled), Ender 3 V2 (3 of them), CR-10 V2 (2 of them), Ender 6 (out of order), and the FLSUN SR (my go to for 3D printing small/functional things)

[@originalradman9491]

I've gone through 25+ pounds of filament with my Ender 6 without issues. If I may ask, what failed on yours? Thanks.

[@autisticChronicles360]

@@originalradman9491 a direct drive extruder was being installed to try and eliminate stringing. Just never got to finish the installation because there's a few essential parts missing. And yes, I realize my math was wrong. I took care of that.

[@fookingsog]

@@autisticChronicles360 I just installed a Capricorn Bowden Tube on my Ender 6. Only time I have stringing is when I print TPU with zero retractions. Otherwise when print PLA, I slice in Simplify3D for it to print exterior walls, inside out, retraction @ 6mm, no z-hop and no crossing outlines if possible. 0.16 layer height has pretty much been my "happy medium" for good detail & overhangs. If E-Steps are calibrated correctly, you should end up with a pretty nice & clean print!!!😁👍🏻 I thought about direct drive but was worried how the extra moving mass would affect detail on places such as corners.

[@autisticChronicles360]

@@fookingsog I use CURA for slicing, and I have Capricorn Bowden tube on all of my functional printers. I use 0.161 mm layer height on my FLSUN (which is somehow better than 0.16).

[@fookingsog]

@@autisticChronicles360 Yep! I just rounded mine to 0.16! Some info copied from elsewhere that I found useful!!! --- Re: Effects of microstepping and segmentation on print qualty Post Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:37 pm 0110-m-p wrote: Interesting. My steps per mm is actually set at 80.7. I calibrated that with a dial indicator (modified it until a Z axis move command equaled the change in reading on the dial). How did you come up with the 0.1618 layer height? I used to set my steps/mm according to what the caliper told me, but recently when looking at this issue I've discovered that you can get moire effects. Mine was set to 161 steps/mm, when the calculations say 160. The 0.1618 layer height is calculated as follows: 80 usteps/mm = 5 steps/mm (at 1/16 microstepping) = 1 step / 0.2mm Golden ratio * step size = 1.618 * 0.2mm = 0.3236 Halve this to get a reasonable layer height: = 0.1618 layer height. The magic is in the golden ratio, it spreads out the single step peaks so that they don't line up with subsequent layers. As you have 80.7 usteps/mm, the layer height you should use is: 0.1604 mm. It's worth a try at least.

[@hampuswahlgren5952]

If the other version you were talking about is tina2s, it also has a heated bed.

[@kholdanstaalstorm6881]

Nice sound example at the end, good for prospective buyers watching the video. That was surprisingly silent! I was half expecting something closer to a 9 pin printer in sound level, that 3D printer was practically whispering in comparison! Marvelous video, should possibly be labeled as a sponsored video? Take care and stay safe!

[@extesht9643]

That thing is quieter than the coil whine from my gpu.

[@martindinner3621]

Those first gen 9 pin printers were loud! Had one for the C64. And when you had to pull the covers to check ribbon advance, they were an order of magnitude louder.

[@dtice123]

So before I went to go find any review videos, I looked at the Amazon page for this. It says the $200 Tina2S has a lot more upgrades including a heated bed

[@dtice123]

And if that's the case then it is definitely a very high consideration to get the $200 version over 150 version

[@extesht9643]

Oh no... I wonder how to get a new plastic bracket to hold bigger rolls of PLA for my 3d printer?

[@martindinner3621]

🤣

[@toddabbott781]

If you need high detail, yet mostly small prints then get a Resin printer. I picked up a Elegoo Mars 3 resin printer as well as a wash/cure station for $430. Add in 1 liter bottles of resin for $34 and 4 32oz bottles of 91% IPA. A small sealed container with a basket in it to use as a pre-wash will save the alcohol in the wash station from getting dirty so fast. Gloves, mask, plastic putty knife, paper towels, and trays will help. Download Lychee Slicer (free) for software and search cults3D for STL files. I use mine for printing mostly 28mm miniatures for games like Warhammer and D&D and the details are CRAZY good. The layers are .5mm thick and the dots are 4kfor a 3.5"x5.5" screen. Think 20x better detail than a filament printer. You do not want to print large objects, but you can print 5 miniatures and 5 bases easy and it will cost a few dollars for resin and take a few hours to print. The reason I say to get this printer... at least for most... is because most do not really need a 3D printer unless you want it for specific things. For mew it was miniatures and there are a lot of people out there that want the same and filament printers can not do miniatures. Miniatures for Warhammer are around $5-10 each and 3D printing on average has cost 1/6th that price to print. It took me only 3 bottles of resin to pay for the printer. I am on bottle 7 right now and I just got the printer 2 months ago. All your friends will want stuff printed. Not only can you find many miniatures for these games (most are free), but also variants, themes, custom ideas... and you can scale them or mirror them is seconds in Lychee. I never used a 3D printer before. It took me about 6 attempted prints and several re-leveling of the table to figure things out and now I rarely get any printing errors. The trick to level it was to use 2 strips of paper so you can see if it is leveled in the front and back. The back kept being too high. After that I usually can run at least 10-20 plates before I need to re-level it. If you know how to use Blender you can modify or make your own STL files. I can not do this yet. There is a little odor Elegoo plant based resin that is good, but the Elegoo ABS-Like is probably the best as it is not as brittle an seems to print a little better. There is some odor, but not too bad... think latex house paint... not after painting the walls, but just having an open can. The printer is quiet too. For those Warhammer players out there I can fit an entire Armiger Helverins/Armiger Warglaives on one plate with all the options and it probably costs about $3 for each one. I printed 2 flawless with pretty much the same detail level as GW does. The one issue I have found is MANY of the STL files are solid. The larger bodies on things like scenery, vehicles, monsters... that have large bodies are not hollowed at all and this wastes a ton of resin. Lychee does let you add cylinder cavities into a model though. I did this with an Aldar Warp Gate and probably cut the amount of resin for the print in half. You have to have an open end though. Yo can not hollow it out and seal it as it will fill with resin when printing. This is bad because it still wastes the resin, the resin trapped inside will never cure, and it can supposedly cause the model to crack or even pop from temp changes and leak the resin out.

[@SerenoOunce]

Wish you had gone over the actual settings. Major factor especially for beginners is how intuitive they are.

[@nltechie9968]

i had the ender 3 as first printer and i have too say it is a good beginner printer. i have learned whit that printer leveling, calibrating, and modding

[@SkorpyoTFC]

Sounds like it's the best option for someone who wants to crank out miniatures.

[@ADB-zf5zr]

What is the "best" (mixture of price and quality, ease of use and features (heated bed, bed levelling etc)) that will print ~300mm prints, minimum 220mm. . I have looked at several models for a project that I want to undertake that cannot be broken down into smaller prints to be assembled. There are cheap models available, but seem crap, and the good models that will do the size I need cost a lot.! And then there is the question of the filament, I am not sure what I will need for the final product, so I would like options... Options cost money.! I can of course skip these "options" to save money and upgrade to another 3D printer later when I have a much better understanding of my requirements, plus have experience etc. . For now though, I would like recommendations for the "best" (mixture of price and quality, ease of use and features (heated bed, bed levelling etc)) that will print ~300mm prints, minimum 220mm. . Many thanks :D

[@zerojackie3575]

Question can you use bottle filament on this thing

[@stephenwong8053]

I wanted to get this for my desk at the office. wondering how loud this is?

[@MaxDad7]

Would it be pretty easy to throw a 40mm fan on it for cooling?

[@J_Trask]

Probably wouldn’t be difficult to rig something onto it for cooling.

[@HasanBabasi]

Could you possibly point towards some tutorials on how to design fans in fusion? I really want to learn but I have no idea where to begin

[@SubsonicNoise]

I got a refurbished Anycubic Mega Zero 2 for 99€ and it prints like a charm. Done some upgrades since, most of them printed, and it‘s reliable enough to run a shop with 😁 New these are only around 150€ nowadays, so I‘d say it‘s def possible to get decent machines with a well sized build volume for that price

[@SubsonicNoise]

Got a heated bed too! I‘d recommend not using the included flex buildplate tho, I use a creality carborundum glass plate

[@SubsonicNoise]

This is nice for kids and beginners tho!!

[@MMX17]

Out of curiosity, do you have a ventilation system set up for your printers?

[@13_death_jester24]

Hey i just ordered a Ender 3 V2 for my first 3D printer, I ordered Creality All Metal MK-8 Extruder Feeder Drive, Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality, so I can printer just about any thing i might want too..

[@skideric]

Would this be good for Raspberry Pi Cases,Other SBC Plates,Cases,etc Small C64,Amiga Case Add-ons,mounts too?

[@skate6788]

Kratos, it's that you?

[@Oblithian]

"Indeed"

[@roykositzky2252]

i just got a used ender 3 i LOVE IT. paid 148 referb unit on a website im not saying but its great easy to use.

[@chaselast3626]

requirement for any 3d printer purchase ... can it print a fan for the showdown!

[@GuyTenorio-jg4rr]

Can you make things on tina2 through your phone on your photos image for 3D printing to make toys

[@benjaminmiddaugh2729]

That clip at the end comes pretty close to sounding like an early arcade machine being played by an expert.

[@percusswords]

I'm considering picking something like this up for traveling with (I tour with a band and would love something to bring with me to build stuff on the road. How durable does this feel for such a purpose?

[@lonergothonline]

well, 20mm fans are used in some retro consoles, like the gamecube, xbox. you've already got a running series where you try 3d printed fans, its about time you started swapping the fans present in those retro consoles and see how the 3d printed fans work over a longer period of time, like months.

[@chemicallust77]

I have yet to find a purpose for the USB cable...Windows makes a noise when you plug it in...but shows and does nothing else 🤷‍♂

[@ThantiK]

You can get an Ender 3 for $149 now. Hands down the best value for any 3D printer out there.

[@GlennCarnes]

I couldn't ascertain if the Weedo Tina2 you reviewed was a Cartesian or Delta Machine Type?

[@badmommat1894]

I've downloaded files for my tina 2 from cult3d, Ive transferred the files to the sd card but can't find the files when I put the sd card back into the machine.

[@jake-bw7rw]

Yeah idk why people ask what's the best of anything tbh because what might be good for 1 person may not be good for everyone it all comes down to what your doing what your applications for it are and the software and level of experience you have are. But what is a good question is in your opinion what would be the best 3d printer for different application and what would be the easiest and also the best value with also retaining some quality but I think that's what people mean when they ask what the best printer is.

[@arianla9467]

What’s the power supply details, i need to buy one and I don’t know the amp and voltage

[@ashleylycan9335]

Opinions on the Ender 3 pro as a first? Found one online for a similar price and dont know if its a good idea to go for it.

[@alexdoescars]

For 160 you can get a voxelab aquila which is actually quite decent and has double the build volume of this thing. Also being an ender 3 clone there is penty of mods for it. It was my first and so far only printer so can't really compare it to anything but it has done everything I wanted so far. Can recommend for a first printer

[@nemtudom5074]

As much pain as i had with my ender 3 bog standard version, i'd still pick that over the tina2.

[@l8dawn]

can you flash marlin on this for a print farm?

[@fischmeister]

I am confused is this the same as the entina tina2s. It looks identical

[@demofighter]

You got a link to the FLsun printer too? edit: I said screw it and picked one up on amazon using your link and it was an additional $20 off the basic model ($130 got me). I'm hoping to use it with my 8 year old this summer to get her into some fun stem focused projects.

[@RedRingOfDead]

Cries in waiting for DHL to finally deliver my Ender 3 V2. It's been ages since I ordered it. And quite affordable at 217 euros.

[@oldretireddude]

What do you do with all the spoils from the printing process? Does it just become another landfill ornament?

[@cppctek]

Voxelab Aquila 3D Printer and the Voxelab Aquila x2 are both under 200$ right now and insanely good! Check Amazon

[@emperorkalel]

Can this model print directly from the polo print app?

[@williamelmer7832]

What filament ar u using in that, I have a Tina 2 and cannot find reels that fit?

[@awlogue]

Somebody get this man a Voron

[@MajorHardware]

I have looked at these kits but then ran away

[@awlogue]

@@MajorHardware they're not as scary as they look, I've kit built a v0 and v2.4 and have a legacy (lesser known voron build) that I scratch built using spare parts. You seem pretty savvy, I don't think you'd have any issues. A 250mm^3 v2.4 would be a great addition to your capabilities (at least that I've seen). Printing at 240mm/s and 10k acceleration is awesome.

[@Oblithian]

But _could I do it,_ is the real question.

[@garrettjones7202]

“Time to print some bOAts” I lol’ed for a while, replayed it it 4 more times, lol’ed. right in the giggles.

[@mattterrell4304]

I've had mine for like a week and now I'm getting Thermal Runaway

[@michaelbujaki2462]

What I want to know about these little printers is if they can use little nozzles.

[@shaun180675]

Why is my tina 2 not working it says resume printing and does not do anything

[@stevepoling]

Can this (or any) 3D printer create lego blocks? If so, could it be a kid's gateway to additive manufacturing?

[@mcyclonegt]

An ender 3 can be had for 150 on sale at times and it's amazing.

[@alexdiaz8259]

Just bought this and its honestly great, does anybody have any suggestions for best slice settings for printing in 0.02 mm layer height?

[@Night_eyes85]

but which one is better internet or no internet

[@stevecade857]

If they could of done print cooling, heated bed and made it a full enclosure for close to that price they could be onto a winner. Even seasoned 3d print enthusiasts might pick one up for those small, casual test prints. Oh yeah, make it big enough to print PC fans.

[@OmegaF77]

You can print a spool holder for the bigger one using the smaller spool. *roll safe*

[@leonardolimon8371]

My entina mini 3d printers tina 2 is not reading the g code.

[@kcow]

For DnD this is an amazing buy

[@mrbmxerboy123]

3:12 *slaps 3d printer* this bad boy can do so many model designs prints

[@rileyitadori8675]

Luckily I got the 200 dollar version off an auction for 70 bucks brand new and I’m not gonna lie. For the price I payed for it, it’s pretty great

[@NathanielHatley]

The Ron Swanson bit was 👌😂

[@thetruthexperiment]

Why does the front look like it’s the back?

[@leonardolimon8371]

How do I fix It?

[@LeoInterVir]

Anything cheap with similar capabilities of this one and a build size of at least 140mm by 140mm?

[@CandidProle]

Kingroon KP3s blows this out of the water for the same price

[@LeoInterVir]

@@CandidProle is it at least 140mm by 140mm

[@CandidProle]

@@LeoInterVir 180mm all around

[@TheRealRetroBeard]

Is this machine capable of printing off fantasy/sci-fi miniatures to a reasonable standard?

[@zdogg95141]

How to get wiibuilder???

[@angst_]

I think budget and willingness to tinker is important factors. Since the money either goes towards features/size or quality/ease-of-use, but usually not both. My ender 3 pro was $230 and I modded the crap out of it, but since the main board died I haven't justified the $25 to replace it lol. But also I'm not in the position to buy something nicer right now. 😭 No printing for me for a bit.

[@fellwind]

Don't just replace it, upgrade the board. Spend a few bucks extra for the SKR Mini. Made a world of difference for my E3 Pro.