Make a modern classic cologne at home (with formula)

My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
Shop perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Links mentioned in this video:
Starter kit video: • The best 30 raw materi...
Purchase the perfumery starter kit:
UK: thefragrancefoundry.com/produ...
International: www.harrisonjoseph.co.uk/prod...
Timestamps:
0:00 - What is classic Eau de Cologne?
4:38 - Working through the formula
Join our relaxed community of perfume makers on discord to chill out and share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn

[@adryancavar7515]

Toilette in french used to refer to a 'self care and hygiene' moment, actually deriving from the word dressing room. The term itself existed even before toilets were a thing. So Eau de Toilette has not much to do with toilet water. Just an interesting thing I thought.

[@sammacer]

Very interesting

[@marialopes9365]

"Toilet water" is from America. Saw a Perfume Passage museum video with a few bottles on display. It blew my mind to see that name 😅

[@sdhute]

Been blending since 2017 it’s a life long journey. Thanks for the food content

[@johnbiteme9118]

Wonderful explanation. Very helpful for understanding how this type of fragrance is put together.

[@sammacer]

Glad you found it helpful

[@GreMliNkor]

thank you, Sam, that is perfect timing, I was just making my own master class on this topic, based on another video, and now i have two different references, which makes things easier))

[@sammacer]

Glad I can help

[@jori7398]

How wonderful you are for sharing this! Merci!

[@sammacer]

Merci

[@alssoy]

Hi, Sam! Yesterday I tried to make an aquatic perfume. I used Calone and Dihydro Myrcenol from your starter kit. I diluted Kalone to 5% and it is wonderful! But I tried to use Dihydro myrcenol in 100% concentration, and it was a mistake 😅 I’ll try to make a 10% dilution and make your cologne formula, it looks great! Thank you very much for your videos!🤍

[@sammacer]

Haha yes I’d definitely dilute the DHM too, let us know your thoughts on the formula

[@aladdinking9253]

Peace, Greeting I hope you will be fine request you to make a complete video on perfume additives and uv filter. And how to store properly aroma chemicals like aldehydes or citric oil. Thank you so much.

[@aniketchatterjee77]

Hi Sam, thank you for this video! Extremely informative! I have a question about the following ingredients - Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Ethylhexyl Salicylate - listed for Molecule 01, but also some of them are listed in Prada lhomme as well. How are these uv-filter ingredients incorporated in the overall formulation? Thank you!

[@ironlion45]

This formula for sure gives me some 4711 vibes. I was thinking that right away, before you showed us a bottle of it lol.

[@jori7398]

4711 is so gorgeous

[@sammacer]

Glad it hit the mark

[@YabbaDadADo]

Really pleased to see content already around the starter kit. I did not receive Helional in mine. Am I correct in thinking that Aquanal is what I would use in place of this?

[@sammacer]

Yes aquanal is just a synonym for helional!

[@YabbaDadADo]

Thanks@@sammacer

[@YabbaDadADo]

@@sammacer I also meant to ask if you have plans for the next N raw ingredients after the initial 30 in the kit?

[@jeremyaficionadoFR]

Hi Sam! First I want to thank you, through your exceptional content, you introduced me to perfumery, and I'm now a passionate. Moreover, wow, you really have a well-thought sound business modal (app, perfumery supplies, fragrances, content creation)! I recently received an aromachemical kit, and partly because of your videos, I now know that the first step is to familiarize myself, to learn «by heart» and master my materials (before blending, combining). My question is, should I dilute all of them at 10% to "learn" them? Are there some that do not need to be diluted? I know that many are so powerful that they require a significant dilution (5%-1% nay even more), but before making the mistake of diluting one that shouldn't be, I wanted to be convinced.

[@sammacer]

Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated. And yeah I’d begin diluting everything to 10%, then again to 1% if you can.

[@sammacer]

You don’t dilute all of it, just a sample

[@jeremyaficionadoFR]

@@sammacer All right, thank you very much!

[@carmentraian2166]

Hello Thank you for the practical information you offer to us. My question is : how can I recreate at home quince flower fragrance? What combination of essential oils do you feel is the most effective to recreate it ? Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

[@sammacer]

Quince doesn’t have a natural extract so you’d need to reconstruct the smell using synthetics. I explain how you build quince fruit and the related rose flower accords in my online course.

[@nestor6355]

Hi! Thanks for your videos, I'm learning a lot!! One question: in my country (Argentina) there's no way to get Helional :( I know it's irreplaceable, but do you think a hint of Floraozone could do well instead, in this case?

[@sammacer]

Yes, that would be a reasonable substitution

[@ethimself5064]

Just found you and am wondering: Is there an online site that if one specifies the name fo the manufacture and specific name of a fragrance it will give the ingredients - even the original? Thanks

[@jackson5002]

The best way to describe bergamot for me is fruit loops or an earl gray tea bag

[@sammacer]

Yep earl grey tea does it for me, I had a little brain fart when trying to explain that 😂

[@musicland1127]

I have azzaro the most wanted edp , it's weak it last for two hours on my skin , what is the best way to make it last longer ? maybe adding iso e super or hedione or there is nothing i can do to improve it?

[@fr0grance]

Hi Sam I'm not that experienced with schiff bases.. So a question, if I don't have aurantiol but have hydroxycitronellal and MA, would I be able to add them in this formula without pre mixing them and have them react straight in there? Or would it be advised if I pre mixed it and let them sit at higher temperature for the water to evaporate? Thanks!

[@sammacer]

To be honest I’m not sure but you could just substitute MA alone

[@Steve_Mazza]

Interesting video. I noticed at 10:55, it sounded like you said DHM is a prominent ingredient in Eau Sauvage. I am sure it's in Sauvage (2015, dark blue bottle), but I wasn't aware of it being in Eau Sauvage (1966, clear bottle). Can you confirm which fragrance you meant there?

[@sammacer]

In this case I meant the 2015 one, I haven’t smelled the original

[@Steve_Mazza]

@@sammacer Thanks for clarifying. But hey, you're missing out! Look up Eau Sauvage sometime (either the EDT, aftershave, or deodorant), and I think you'll be glad you did. The EDP is amazing too, but very different.

[@MrLenn]

I'm at the point of starting to collect oils etc. But with the summer coming and it can get quite hot in my house, will that damage the oils and should they be kept in the fridge otherwise?

[@sammacer]

I’d recommend getting a little fridge

[@aladdinking9253]

How much percentage can we use BHT and benzophenone 2 or 3.

[@georgpapadakis5710]

Hi, Sam, and thank you for a great video! But won't 40% Hedione flatten the fragrance? Thank you in advance

[@sammacer]

It does a little but that’s what I want in this case since before it’s very top heavy. It also adds a radiance.

[@rohithcherukuri5487]

Hello Sam quick question, Is it possible to use nerolione (around 1% or 0.5% dilution) as a replacer for aurantiol?

[@sammacer]

Yes

[@dmytromorawski1955]

Hi, could you make a video about patents for parfum compositions and molecules. My local shop has some popular molecules but I don't really know if there are companies that have ownership of patents for that molecules. In wich scenarios I can use molecules in my parfum and maybe there is a way to check formulas and molecules for patents online. Thank you for your valuable videos!

[@sammacer]

I doubt you’d some into a patented molecule on the aftermarket so you’re unlikely to have a problem

[@dmytromorawski1955]

Thx for reply, guess Im overthinking@@sammacer

[@jaycejones1024]

Quick question Sam. If I wanted to make this into a perfume with an overall concentration of 20% would I take these 10% dilutions and scale them up to 100% since they will be 20% diluted in the final perfume and then for the 1% dilutions use them at 10% dilution in the final formula? Thank you in advance.

[@sammacer]

Yes you could always make with pure and re dilute instead like you say, or you could rescale using Formulair (method shown in the tutorial video) to use a mixture of pure and dilutions

[@jaycejones1024]

@sammacer fantastic! Thank you Sam!

[@rafaelfernandes3957]

You include the solvent on the formula? Then wont the fragancy concentration be incorrect? Thank you!

[@castle_cohousing2103]

Fine Macer ,what about Citral i think IS a mainly powerfull citrus scent??

[@sammacer]

You could use citral for sure. It’s traditionally used as a cheaper alternative to lemon EO

[@justaddlight]

Excellent tutorial Sam. 🍋 I feel there's a noticeable amount of rose in something like Colonia Essenza which is far more of a floral musk than a traditional cologne. Amazing opening though. Neroli and/or petitgrain would certainly get my vote for classic substitutions. The bitter orange tree really was an important source of materials back in the day.

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@Moonlight_Sonata19]

Dont you add any humectants or emollients? İPM or DPG?

[@sammacer]

No, none of those are necessary

[@Fumez_Sobolan]

Chop chop fragrance boi,we need a course from u ASAP please.

[@biancaourso6983]

Can you mix synthetic materials with natural?

[@sammacer]

Yes

[@fhoeflich]

Often this is what works best. Take the best properties of the natural, and use the advantages of synthetic(s) to improve longevity, brighten bloom etc.

[@dantheman2907]

Does anybody know of any Australian based perfumery suppliers I could source from? That starter kit looks great, but the shipping adds close to another $100 and I'm already struggling to afford the kit on its own. I might just have to slowly buy a few ingredients at a time until I have enough to get started.

[@nirvanaelements]

Yes, I use Evocative Perfumes in South Australia (Mark Evans), and he has a good range of aroma chemicals in small quantities.

[@dantheman2907]

@@nirvanaelements awesome! Thank you so much. Bonus that he's based in South Australia because I am too, so shipping should be extra fast!

[@fr0grance]

FraterWorks is one of the best smaller dose suppliers out there but it's New Zealand based. You could try that?

[@dantheman2907]

@@fr0grance awesome! I'll check them out, too. Much appreciated.

[@ethimself5064]

Much Kool👍

[@jeremyaficionadoENG]

By the way, being too a content creator, your thumbnail is magnificient! AI created?

[@sammacer]

Yes the background is

[@jeremyaficionadoENG]

@@sammacer Which one, Sam?

[@yzxz9012]

His video editing got downloaded hard 😂😂

[@sammacer]

?

[@yzxz9012]

@@sammacer your video editing got downgraded

[@sammacer]

What don’t you like about it now? I will make a note. I still edit them myself.

[@TalesoftheMidnightrealm]

why do you dilute everything to 10%?

[@sammacer]

Because it allows you to learn the smells and compose in a realising concentration without overpowering your nose. It also allows you to save money by using less raw materials and helps you dose formulas more accurately. You can then scale the concentration back up later once you’re happy with your sketch.

[@ExploitTheVibe369]

Would this be a decent parfume. oud amber gris pink pepper whiskey fig vetiver patchouli

[@rio.028]

Bro im your fan from Bangladesh, Teach us Dior siuvage

[@alex.Lobato]

I'm so glad for this video! im fron Brazil and going use this content to make money!