Perfumer's guide to coffee + demo formula

[@THEG4MINGLEGEND]

super underrated channel .. highly appreciate your work

[@stephenyoung2531]

Hearing your thought process through the formulation was extremely helpful! Thanks for putting out so much great material

[@sammacer]

Glad it was helpful!

[@JayMannStuff]

Hey Sam. Z11 10 MIP is called that way because the core material is called Z11. The "10 MIP" refers to refers to it being diluted in 10% MIP (which is French for IPM, Isopropyl Myristate). Cheers.

[@Perfumery_by_Sabin]

Jay Mann always had the knowledge!

[@sammacer]

That is very useful to know, thank you

[@DougJenkins777]

Very helpful very interesting... I'd also love to see a follow up to this one as you tweak/perfect the formula and add notes (your process for doing this). Then how you would go about making a full bottle of finished product. - On a side note, I've noticed a few production perfumes are now including ice and snow accords and wonder if you'd consider doing a concept vid on how this may be accomplished. Thanks again for all your hard and exceptional work!

[@pellestorck3776]

Ethyl cyclopentenolone and nutty quinoxaline are great for coffee accords but must be heavily diluted. Apart from that pyrazines are essential for natural coffee scent. 2,3,5,6 tetramethyl pyrazine is my favorite, smells straight like fruity coffee in a 1% dilution.

[@mambojambostudio]

your videos are an incredible resource and very obviously your passion for the world of perfume is what drives it. Thank you so much!

[@T_Dahil]

Sam, Coffee beans+ Cardamom + Saffron + Clove (or Eugenol) make am amazing combination

[@sammacer]

Lovely, I’ll try to remember to try that one

[@w278Edipos]

What do you use for the saffron scent?

[@sameersood3010070087]

@@w278Edipos You can use SAFRANAL at 0.01 to 0.10% dilution

[@texasfan8892]

Perfumer Supply House used to carry (or she might still have a small batch left) of Coffee SFE. Amazing stuff.

[@Titemaud]

Perfumer's Apprentice has a material called Espresso Distillate. I'm thinking of getting it, it's supposed to smell like fresh brewed coffee.

[@canascarlos9790]

it does, I used coffee abs and expresso distillate, vetiver bourbon, lactones, specially milk lactone, then other stuff you want to add besides the basic iso E and hedione, oh and forgot cocoa hexenal gives a coffee perfume a nice middle chocolate note when combined with vanillin. BTW i love Sams version, it sounds woody and nice

[@Titemaud]

@@canascarlos9790I did get it =) It's lovely.

[@johncatana3774]

Thank you so much for this video Sam, I used Coffee to make one of my bases Coffee Leather Oud, with some Coffee bean absolute I got in Florida.

[@sammacer]

Lovely

[@justaddlight]

That sugary woody amber base became so ubiquitous in designer perfumery after the success of BR540 that it makes my head spin. 😵‍💫😄 Literally. Coumarin, chocolate accords and something like caramel furanone also very common in coffee scents. Just last year became fascinated with breaking down the scent of mid-to-dark roasted organic coffee beans and it's clear to me that they include animalics like skunk and even a bit of porto potty funk! They're nuances, but they're clearly in there. Would be awesome to see more animalics added to coffee perfumes these days. 🦨 A fun tutorial Sam!

[@mickeyconnor830]

Interesting. I made an alcohol extraction of grounds coffee for testing purposes and it smells just like a portajohn. 😂 Combine that with hyraceum and vanilla and you've got puking pastilles perfume!

[@justaddlight]

@@mickeyconnor830 Right!? 🤣 Fred and George sure know how to make 'em.

[@sammacer]

Thank you

[@kennethrodriguez5183]

Great video. I was thinking in something like smelling the steaming coffee in a wooden room, a lot of leather furniture and books, some tobacco and smoking, mixed with a hint of classic colognes in the air. A gentleman club maybe, a whole experience more than orbiting around the coffee

[@mochacola72]

I am having a hard time coming up with masculine and darker scents. I love the smell of coffee and I love darker smelling scents. But it's not coming together for me. I know I need more materials but I'm not coming close at all🤔

[@sammacer]

Try experimenting with vetiver, oakmoss, cedarwood and oud

[@francoismakhoul3820]

Hey Mate, Coffee furanone (2-methyltetrahydrofuran-3-one) - Coffee Difuran and cafe santos Firmenich, would do a great Job for a coffee Accord, Great video as always-keep it up.

[@sammacer]

Thanks for the suggestions, those sounds great

[@PlantswithCoffee]

Wow, im looking forwaed that you will re-create this coffee perfume with coconut & rose, how its gonna be like… i have been working in a coffee shop and when i have some coffee beverage with coconut and rose it’s smells yummy and nutry at the same time… wish you could do a formulation and post it here with that base (you can consider removing oud though)

[@sbjorklind]

Hey Sam! I've just started out in perfumery and was wondering if you dilute bases or not? Thank you for the amazing content!

[@germurphy4923]

As always such an informative video. Would you consider doing a video explaining how to start a perfume business - what tests need to be done. what labelling Information needs to be on the product. What is the legal requirement for storing chemicals etc. I've been trying to find this information out for starting a small business in the EU (Ireland) and it has been much harder than expected to find straight answers.

[@ShannanTheAromaticArtisan]

This has been very helpful, thank you! I've been struggling with my own coffee perfume but I think I know where I've gone wrong now, or at least other avenues to try.

[@sammacer]

Good luck!

[@arios4211]

I'm waiting for an Iris video please !

[@davemathew4690]

+

[@lovehellmusic]

I have a question, why not just use coffee extract? I wanted a scent that smelled like coffee and so I was thinking of just getting crushed coffee beans letting oil absorb it and then mix it with perfumers alcohol for a coffee scent. Should I still go ahead with this?

[@arazos3535]

I love this way of following your thought process plus, seeing it in action in the app. I have a question i use the app now too, but is there away to put a perfume you made also in the ingredient list of another? I struggle alot to add the same things over and over again especially with multiple notes made inside a perfume.

[@selfesteem2952]

Thanks for all your hard and exceptional work! What do you think about the ODIC method does it really work or it's just a waste of time?

[@MichalBrat]

Hi and thanks for your videos, you are inspiring me to turn this perfume obsession of mine into a hobby :-) Could you please help me out a bit more by answering two questions I have? 1. I am thinking about starting an online course, what do you think about the EPC course, is that a good place to start? 2. I have this idea of a specific scent I want to make and I have sort of narrowed it down to 3 perfumes, specific components of which would give me, as I believe, the fragrance I want to achieve. So I am not looking to copy a different perfume, I just know that the scent I am looking for is somewhere in the triangle of these perfumes. What would you do? I mean, these 3 perfumes are described on Fragrantica as having tens of various components, so is there really no other way than to head-dive into perfumery, order hundreds of raw materials and hope that after several years of studying I will find the formula? No shortcut thanks to the fact I already sort of know what I would like to achieve? Thank you in advance

[@LemonHenry-v8s]

Loving this

[@5wm562]

Got a question: while watching notice all your materials at 10% concentration, _including_ Oud Maleki which you wasn't found entirely consistent with the formula. Have you since, or do you you ever test with lower concentrations? Of course that creates complications upscaling as it were away from '1, but my thinking that the Maleki in the same scale, having the same 'pitch' as everything else, where it may rather accord with some other material at a lower dose. I haven't found either that Ambers and Ouds blend well to begin with and regard them as 'focus' materials. as with say 'Cedar' and 'Sandalwood', 'Vetiver and Patchouli as base notes, wouldn't be expected to have equal focus in relation to their mid-notes.

[@orighomisandediare4990]

Could I use coffee essence in the mix? I found a thirteen year old coffee chicory essence that has thickened considerably. I have been experimenting with essences such as almond essence with essential oils. It works but I think it attracts bugs whilst being worn. I just got musk oil and mixed it with almond and am hoping to insert basil oil in. Keep you posted

[@5wm562]

Some materials I might reach for: Castoreum, Caraway (smells like might be an ingredient in Suederal, otherwise great for leather accords), Benzaldehyde, Birch Leaf (feminine leaning) Geranium, Saffron, Honey, Patchouli, Choya Loban, Birch Leaf, Cinnamon Leaf, Ajowan,Carrot seed., Jasmine, Apricot.

[@tracek]

Love your videos. Sad to see the app is only for apple products. Are there any plans for androids?

[@fr0grance]

Hi Sam. Was wondering if you're ever gonna bring the raw materials kit back on your website? I noticed it has been sold out for quite a while now

[@ymyi]

Great taste, I have a very wired question but I believe you have an answer. After I mix the oil with alcohol and shack them, I find a lot of bubbles inside the bottle, and some of them look like dots. This result happen after I shake it hardly. The experiment is done on a bottle that been macerated for 3 months. I compared it with designers perfumes but I juice texture is different. Any advice why this is happening. The concentration is 20%.

[@kokoloko12398]

Hi! Did you dilute with alcool or DPG (or something else)? Thanks :-)

[@ngurahirnaedu]

you are very cool bro, very cool knowledge

[@sammacer]

I appreciate that

[@joydavey6971]

I made a coffee with vanilla, orange and ylang ylang. super yummy smell

[@sammacer]

That sounds lovely

[@le2458]

Question: I have the Perfumer Apprentice's wonderful beginner's kit and have been thoroughly enjoying making things. I would like to get a few more ingredients (5-10) that could really expand what I'm able to make, but I'm not sure what would be the "next" essential set. Their next level kit has a ton more ingredients and is more than 3 times the price of the first level, and I don't feel I can commit to that yet. Could you recommend a few ingredients that could expand my repertoire? For reference, I have the following (I think they are all or mostly accords made by PA): Top: white grapefruit, a cologne accord (fresh, orange blossomy), green leaf accord, and pear Middle: jasmine, gardenia, rose, muguet Base: amber, vanilla, marine and ozone, white musk Overall, it's a pretty sweet and floral assortment. The rose and vanilla are very candy like. I feel I am missing spicy, woody, and citrusy notes, but am not sure where to begin. I'd love some weirder ingredients and something that makes perfume last longer (I know that's a broad topic, but I'm interested in fixatives that I see on PA's website.) Any ideas? I love your videos and they are an essential accompaniment for learning!

[@janepaulo6192]

Sam has a video on suggested starter materials. There are about 20 of them. Research the scent profiles on each material, then order the ones you are most interested in learning about.

[@leparfum4716]

Hi sam, please inform me about Your android version App . Thank You

[@bashirulismail8790]

very informative content...full of good explaination...good job...

[@sundarrajamannar6445]

Sir, want sandalwood perfume compound formulation. India

[@Dexlifestyle]

I just finish a perfumery course but I don’t mind doing any class or mentorship with you

[@RsidbeiCobwhwkf]

What is Cas number for Caramel acetate you've mentioned in the video? Thanks

[@sammacer]

4166-20-5

[@erewrw1906]

a Question: what other methods for Fragrance-usage are there beisdes: Spray, Incense, Candles, Bottle with sticks, and diffusor ? I always dreamed of a Mechanical Method (not diffusor with electricity) for the Room that isnt open and isnt suspectible of spilling.. or any other cool method.. Spraing on clothes is not the worst, but i kinda dislike the feeling of hafing Substances just under health-safety-limit..i never feel super at ease like it.. Especially as a hobbyst who actually DOES google the dangers of each EO, and has a really good idea, but its still not exact.. Anyway i envision in a general a Roomspray, but without spilling-danger. I dont like Incense because the enorm smoke, Candels are also not really that smokefree, and i personally dont like candles per se..

[@erewrw1906]

And with a spray for the room , i heard alcohol doesent reall fit roomsprays thaat much. And PEG i dont want.. lol. I also dont like after i touched my selfbought spray, i always want to to first wash my hands, just for safety.. but then i have soapsmell as free bonus. lol. you see im just perfectionistic . For now i stick with a Roomspray.

[@xavieraleman1629]

Coffee and Whiskey by bath body works smells amazing, like a coffee Mocha shop.

[@mattl7424]

How’s you decide to become a perfumer. How long is the process

[@sammacer]

It takes years to become proficient, a lifetime to master

[@pami333]

Did you dilute the Z11 10 MIP further after getting it? In case you did, your Z11 is actually *at 1%,* since the 10 indicates that it's diluted at 10% in MIP/IPM already. Pure stuff is expensive and usually not available in smaller quantities.

[@sammacer]

Yes I did - that’s great to know, I did in fact not know that!

[@pami333]

@@sammacer well, technically your Z11 10 MIP is at 10%, but Z11 is at 1%, so not sure how to properly implement this in the database, maybe with a side note that that 10% Z11 10 MIP equals 1% Z11? I made the same mistake when I got it, btw. 😅

[@erewrw1906]

With coffe i managed to make very tropical feelings in the combination with Orange. Made me feel like hanging out with a black girl in Southamerica or something. (wich i never did , lol)

[@blackbutterfly3537]

I’m curious about an ingredient in a perfume called Blanche Bete called mystikal that is supposed to be similar to the smell of incense burning . I wonder how something similar would blend with this

[@sammacer]

I wanted to smell that raw material too

[@bassmarine5650]

I would love to try out this formula, and play around with potential directions I could take based on this formula. But I can't seem to find a reliable supplier for Oakwood Absolute or Coffee absolute. anybody has any good sources?

[@sammacer]

Not sure about coffee but for Oakwood you can try thefragrancefoundry.co.uk/products/oakwood-absolute-50-tec-biolandes Or if you’re in the USA, perfumer’s apprentice sell it

[@umangasarathchandra717]

Came from School of Scent

[@AliHassan-to9tw]

معلمي سام ماتقدمه رائع وكنت افكر بعمل اتفاق للقهوة السعوديه والتي تحتوي على البن والهيل والزعفران والقرنفل والزنجبيل نعم تحتوي على مكونات كثيره واريد ان ارى اتفاق لها قريباً من قبلكم. تحياتي احبك كثيراً

[@cryptidsNstuff]

do you ship to the usa?

[@sammacer]

Last USA shipment was April, next one is planned for November. If you want to be notified then sign up to my newsletter.

[@russellmoxham5625]

I'm still not a perfumer, and maybe what I'm about to say is just the fault of the geckoes on the walls there making me think of Indonesia, but I might have been tempted to explore including something like civetone, probably instead of the oud since they're both animalic. I have no idea whether it would work; I never tried civet coffee even when I went to Indonesia; I probably wouldn't now (after reading about intensive civet farming for it); anyway, from what I've read, civet coffee probably isn't all it's cracked up to be (it reportedly lacks acidity and heads off toward chocolate soup territory, like many Indonesian coffees even without the civet-based fermentation process); I have no idea about synthetic v. probably controlled, unethical true civet musks either; but, well, the idea occurred to me. Obviously since I'm no perfumer I don't know much about coffee aromachemical options etc. either, though I think you're probably covering a lot of bases anyway when you bring in nutty pyrazines. I have some medium roast beans on the go and, although they're cheap and not refined enough to offer much by way of fruity, floral or herbaceous aspects, they do have plenty of popcorn-type or nutty pyrazine toastiness. Again, since you're using vanillin and the odd caramel aromachemical, I'm sure you're already doing most of what there is to do. I will say that so much of this must depend on the specific coffee aroma and that there's a world of difference between something with fruity, floral and herbaceous notes from Ethiopia, something chocolaty from Central or Southern America, and all-out chocolate soup from Sumatra. And the ones I'm thinking of there are all Arabica. Robusta could probably make some full-on bitter toastiness. Plus there are sooo many variables in the production, roasting, grinding and brewing processes. (Has anyone based a fragrance around green coffee beans?!) One fragrance I've been looking at for a while (but haven't bought, because I can't sample it) is Santal + Coffee by Luca Maffei for Womo. It's not very well known and naturally I can't say whether the coffee smell hangs around or whether the sandalwood and other woody or balsamic/resinous elements (e.g. myrrh and opoponax) quickly get the upper hand, but I do know that Maffei chose Ethiopian coffee for it (absolute, I think), seemingly because it has plenty of bright top-note content as well as some of the darkness we tend to associate with coffee. The coffee is listed as a mid/body note, so I imagine it's called upon to help form a bridge between the citrus, davana, elemi and lavender in the top and the woodiness of the base notes. I mean to say that probably as soon as you're using real coffee there's a vast range of effects between grassy and chocolaty that you can choose to accentuate or minimise. I note that that in the same line of fragrances, Maffei has Vetiver + Chestnut, where I suppose the vetiver must be chiming in with the nuttiness of the marron glacé, yet Santal + Coffee has more of a dark/woody base alongside what's probably not the darkest of coffee notes going… Great video by the way. If I ever get around to trying some perfumery, a lot of that will be down to you.

[@eestiny9734]

Nice video

[@mdashikurrohman8025]

Hi dear ❤ Bro i"m locking United arob Emirates. Bro have your online class i well Class 🎉🎉

[@marekziela9886]

Yes this is the video i was waiting for!!! My mom loves coffee notes but i struggle to recreate one. I think oud is a pretty good shot. i'm gonna try it

[@sammacer]

Lovely, let me know your thoughts

[@marekziela9886]

i tried it and its ok. i also added some clearwood (Patchouli vibe molecule) and its suprasingly good (ofc for my taste). @@sammacer

[@sadcapyyoutube]

Can you make a cocaine perfume? Love from the streets of NY

[@--------RR007----------]

First.

[@WaldoAgave]

Nice one bro 🎉

[@mastermaly1]

słoik od kapusty kiszonej:)

[@sammacer]

Haha yes those jars are great for used pipettes