Make Extra Large Atlas Lathe Dials pt 2 TIPS

[@nicholasspangler1128]

Mr. Pete, I know you talk about death a lot and how you don't have many years left, but I must say that what you have done with your KZbin videos will literally echo throughout history. When you're long gone, your wonderful wisdom will contue to inspire and help millions of men. I'm sure you have plenty of years left, but if you didn't, you still fulfilled your life. I hope to have such a fulfilling life some day. This is my way of saying thank you for putting so much work and information into your videos. Thank you, Sir. You have taught me and thousands of men so, so much that we would not have learned otherwise.

[@75Bird455]

I can't quantify the value of these video's. Everything I know, everything I've made, the equipment I now own, is all due to Mr. Pete. I know there are other machinist channels on youtube now, but I keep finding myself back here.

[@nowayjerk8064]

we all go some time now go do how you want to be done and youll have no regrets

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

I hear that; there are a lot of good machinist channels out there, but a good many are just showing what they're doing. Mr. Pete shows us _how_ and in understandable terms. A great teacher is a rare find, but Mr. Pete is most assuredly one of them.

[@pilgrimm23]

You and me both brother.

[@gregfeneis609]

Hear, hear! Mr. Pete, you're a rare bird these days. So many other sources of media produce how-it-works and how-to articles or videos and attempt to review some technology or process and it becomes quickly evident that they don't quite understand what they're presenting, they're just giving a presentation of info they've only just researched. Poorly formed conclusions and backward explanations ensue. You, on the other hand explain how things work, how to do things, and why things are made a certain way with remarkable clarity. I find myself watching you explain things I think I already know to see what tid bit I might be missing. True, nobody gets out of here alive, but you should keep doing this so long as you are comfortable doing so. The world needs your shining example.

[@hhman]

The contrast on the black works for me

[@rwbishop]

Yes... ever notice how aircraft instruments have black faces with white graduations? It's no accident, a lot of time went into researching the most visible easy to read combinations. Much the same deal with green highway signs with white lettering.

[@mikenixon9164]

Your videos are never too long I enjoy every minute . I like the black direct read dial. Excellent video.

[@christopherpillars7742]

Try a wax “China marker”. You can purchase them cheaply in white or black at an art store or a Hobby Lobby or you can use a black or white Crayon. I have found that if you warm up the piece with a warm hair dryer, then rub it with the China marker or crayon to fill in the graduations & numerals it works much smoother. After that just buff off any excess by hand with a soft cloth. Thanks again Mr. Pete for another great video!

[@FernandoLichtschein]

Excellent video and excellent idea! It is great to see that an old timer puts new technology to good use. (I am 64).

[@timothydaniel4511]

Just finished this upgrade and it is great! I used the direct read dial and it really makes it easier to control the amount I take off. Thanks for the video Mr. Peterson!!!

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@roylucas1027]

Great video. I like the black with white infill dial. Keep those videos coming.

[@BedsitBob]

Black with white characters for me too.

[@thetriode]

These are great, I definitely would consider this a huge upgrade for an Atlas. Thanks to both of you, I pulled them down for when I get a printer.

[@OleGramps53]

Wonderfully done , boy that does help with the old tired eyes for reading the graduations.

[@dalegriggs5392]

Mr. Pete, I recently watched your video on how a carbide light works. I too am an Illinois boy though I grew up in Pike County, currently living in Decatur. As a boy in the 1950s I also explored the limestone mines near Pearl, Illinois using those ancient lights and yes, made a few nefarious experiments with that and other substances. Calcium Carbide was used for other lighting purposes as well as miner’s lights. During the 1980s I lived in Clinton, Illinois and my teenage son had a job managing the local movie theater as well as the drive in theater outside of town. The projectors at the movie theater were modern electric light projectors but imagine my surprise when I went to help him at the drive in one hot summer night and found those huge carbide light projectors still in use. I believe there were two large flame nozzles in each with three or four large reflectors. My son hated operating those machines as they heated the projection booth tremendously. He also had to polish those reflectors before and even during the show. There were two projectors as a full feature film has two, sometimes three huge film reels. No one watching a movie ever sees it but near the end of a reel a number countdown appears in the upper right hand corner of the screen and the projectionist and a helper have to time the switchover from one projector to another when the count drops to zero. If done flawlessly the movie continues without a single glitch in the onscreen scene. It was absolutely fascinating! I am like you, always wanting to know how things work. Ever since I can remember I have been taking things apart to discover their secrets. I currently have two sheds full of tools and bits and pieces of this and that. As for those who may complain that you go into too much detail that’s too bad. They have the option of turning off the video at any time. I personally enjoy your explanations and life anecdotes. I recently went to an estate sale and bought a Sterrat inch micrometer in excellent shape for 10 bucks. I also bought an old steel tool box full of button dies and taps, about thirty HSS tool blanks and even more already ground. Some were junk but all were of a quality that’s hard to come by these days. Everything from 5/16 to 3/4 in size. Under all that I found a 4 inch Sterrat machinists clamp that cleaned up real nice and a six inch Sterrat hook rule as well. I paid 15 bucks for the lot. A good score for me. My wife and I love estate auctions and go to many during the summer months. Occasionally do garage sales but only if there isn’t an auction I’m interested in.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you for commenting. Not too many people even know what those lamps are. We sure had fun with them as kids

[@davidfe47]

Thanks LYLE! Your generosity of a surprise gift of 3 books for Adam was a delight to watch yesterday. Black. Mos t visible is black on yellow. Try that combination. Whan are you going out of your comfort zone to the next level with higher quality material and the copper / metal stuff too? Wainting for more.!

[@SharkyMoto]

E'fd Communications most visible? the bigger the contrast the easier to read, wich means black/white will always be the combination with the highest contrast.

[@springwoodcottage4248]

A similar leap forward in legibility to when pharmacists started to print the labels on drug bottles/packets rather than the old long hand writing that was often near illegible. Thank you for sharing!

[@lrk6790]

My Logan is going to look real good with its new black dials with white lettering. Mrpete, you da man!

[@badjuju6563]

This may be obvious..... but could you turn an aluminium puck to go on where the original dial was, then print an outer graduated shell. the thumb screw with a shoulder would lock the shell to the aluminium core. It would be much faster to print and the thumb screw will not waller out the plastic thread over time. Thanks for sharing.

[@kenzpenz]

Great idea indeed.

[@billcurtis2056]

I was thinking the same thing, but the design as is looks like it works well. Nice job

[@daleburrell6273]

6:24 I'd consider using a threaded insert for the thumbscrew threads- because I wouldn't expect those plastic threads to last very long in this kind of application.

[@SharkyMoto]

red is more fancy but the black and white just has a better contrast obviously so thats why i would use black.

[@charlescompton4495]

Thanks for the late model Atlas dials. I don't have a printer but I,m sure there is someone in the town that might. Really enjoy your videos so keep them coming. Greg

[@silverbullet7434]

Black and I wish I had a set . Great video as usual , Thanks Mr Pete

[@jimsavina1941]

It's been fun watching your thumb nail grow out!

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

They both look great, but I prefer the contrast of the white on black. This looks like a great solution to the small and hard to read dials; I remember how much work you put into making those Logan dials, very laborious, but came out great.

[@michaelmurray3422]

They Both look real nice, and for which color would be best, I think would depend on the lighting in the shop. If I had to pock, it would probably be the black on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday ! Then red on the others!

[@soundmindtv2911]

Wow! What a great tip with the silicone!!

[@ALSomthin]

These are awesome ! The black embossed are the most visible having one for the conpound as well would be wonderful. To bad I will never be able to afford a 3d printer . So I guess its off to ebay to look for some direct acting ones.

[@johntompkins147]

I like the black contrast. I was wondering if shoe polish would work, but the silicone may be more durable. Nice project, Thanks Mr Pete.

[@rwbishop]

Out of passing interest: Eons ago I was given a ball clock kit[1]. It was a black plastic affair, and had some graduation markings that needed high lighting. They suggested rubbing & working an ordinary crayon into the markings and polishing off with a rag. It worked very well... but I doubt the method would be suitable for an often touched/cleaned surface like the dials. [1] Don't think that clock is made anymore; but if you Google 'idle tyme clock', similar wooden versions seem to be available. The thing was very noisy, and balls often fell out of their tracks etc. A cool 'Rube Goldberg'' novelty, but beyond that... Just looked at eBay, looks like the one I had was an 'Arrow Ball Clock'.

[@stevecanny1583]

I think the black will turn out to be the better workshop color. White would get grubby looking very quickly, with oil-borne dirt getting into every crack and crevice of the printed surface. Red would draw attention to where it wasn't really needed; good color for an emergency stop button, but not so much for a cross-slide dial. Black I bet would hold up well with the white silicone shedding any dirt pretty well I expect.

[@brianross7233]

I like the idea, printed plastic is good for prototype. I am thinking brass with black markings for the finished product!

[@brucewilliams6292]

Thank you so much! I've been trying to figure out how to fill in the markings on various things. Readability, the black is better. For looks, I like the red. I wish you would show more of the 3d printing stuff. I know I am in a minority but it is a great adjunct to other methods of making things. Hope Christmas was grand and that the New Year is the best yet.

[@smithjones1906]

Personally I slightly favor the black with white markings.

[@tedwitham304]

Quick tip for making it easier to color your knobs to try sometime , try white crayon its fast and cheepand easy to re touch if /as necessary. Great videos and love your making chips videos !

[@bulldozer7656]

These are really great. Black embossed gets my vote.

[@lookatthis1two]

Mr.Pete, Don't forget about us smaller lathe people that need a 1.5 diameter dial, 0-100 indirect cross slide, My wife knows your voice when i view you Shop tips and will say Tubalcain Education!

[@jamesstanlake4064]

Black stands out for my old eyes. If you can find a plastic laminate distributor (Formica) all of them that I have seen can order or have any color of silicone caulk.

[@FredMiller]

Amen James!

[@cactikev9685]

Very interesting, how about using the colors to code for direct and indirect readings, seeing as how you cut up my favorite - the green !

[@daleburrell6273]

4:21 After watching your video about heating parts to install ball bearings, I'm surprised that you didn't heat the aluminum ring to expand it- instead of driving it on...

[@Grantos1ea]

I think a nice upgrade for cross slide would be a printed degree ring that fits into a machined groove in the saddle to accurately indicate the cross slide to.

[@BedsitBob]

Might be an idea to give the rim a coat of clear lacquer, to prevent the inlaid silicone from becoming dirty.

[@ligius3]

I too prefer the black version, in fact I use black PLA almost exclusively. It hides defects well and rarely looks out of place. Red or green would make it look more like a toy or prototype. White would reflect/disperse light, making it harder to read. IMHO, a black chalkboard is easier to read than a whiteboard.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Would it be possible for you to put a Kill a watt meter on the printer and see how much electricity that is uses in that 4 hour print.

[@marchyman6621]

My CR-10S uses about 250 watts max with heated bed and nozzle on. During a print wattage varies, of course . My guestimate is about about 1 kW-h per 6 hours printing. The CR-10 (vs 10S) might be a different.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

What do you suppose that power costs you at your local rate?

[@marchyman6621]

Nothing -- my annual net bill is zero due to my solar panels. I do pay a $10/month connection charge. My rates would otherwise vary by season and by time of day. My last bill put the rates between 1 and 5 cents/kWh. I could probably print all day long for less than $0.15 worth of power.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Thanks for the reply and the info.

[@MaturePatriot]

I like the black, the contrast with the white fill is very easy to see. The one you cut in half, was it the green one? Great video. I would say there are a lot of Atlas lathe owners looking for someone with a 3D printer. Stay well, stay safe, and we will see you in your next video.

[@thetriode]

Love the dials. Just got my first 3D printer and am going to have to "remix" this a bit so that I can make a set for my 12X36. The dials are even smaller than your original ones and barely readable. Doing a dial was about 2 hours for me. I will say the embossed ones have nice numbering the other ones don't seem to be as nice.

[@mrpete222]

👍

[@dailharris6800]

These dials are great Mr Pete,,,but would you consider doing a set for those of us with the smaller 618 lathes? At 65, I can barely tell there are graduations on my dial, sigh.

[@DonCheke]

It is always a pleasure to watch your videos. Thank for taking time to make them.

[@jeffg3563]

You may want to consider tweaking your slicer settings, maybe increase your print speeds. I printed the 200/Emboss version on my cheap Tevo printer in only 1.5hrs using relatively high quality settings. I use Simplify3D so I can't recommend settings in Cura. Great tip on using silicone for the embossing, although I should have let it cool down before applying. It started curing too quickly making clean up a bit of a pain.

[@Grantos1ea]

The white red looks nice but I think that the white on black has more impact. It would be interest in seeing the black on white though.

[@PhilsProjects]

thanks for another great video. i am having trouble printing out text on my 3d printer, i wonder how you got yours so nice

[@tomherd4179]

Is it the printer or the program making then slicing the object? My guess (I am new to this) would be in the slicing settings.

[@dragman377]

Thank you Mr Pete for another very interesting video. I enjoyed it very much.

[@farmdadco]

I printed mine from black pla as well . My printer is a CR10s and on both the lathe dials and lathe gears the center holes all printed a bit undersized . I don't consider that a real problem , just something to be aware of and factor in before assembly .

[@franksmodels29]

I go with the black great contrast easy to see..

[@RobertPrey]

How do I purchase a large scale dial for the Atlas Lathe?

[@ericchilton3781]

man i need some of those........welding for 30 years im almost blind ...........

[@mrpete222]

Yes

[@jerrywallis599]

I like the Black one better. Good job Professor

[@TractorWrangler01]

I like both the red and the black but I think logically the white with the black might be more friendly in use because dirty hands ect will be turning the white lettering black I would think. Just a thought..

[@DonDegidio]

Hi Lyle, I also prefer the black with white lettering of the colors you printed. Wonder how an aluminum colored filament with black lettering looks.

[@kardeef33317]

Another trick to making the lettering stand out, I have used on chicken head knobs on switches , is to paint it with whiteout then scrap off the part on the surface, it usually comes off easily on the smooth surface.

[@rwbishop]

A thought... maybe print the word 'Direct' or 'Indirect' several times around the appropriate dial circumference as a memory aid?

[@1musicsearcher]

If that is the only two color choices, I like black better. I also like directed reading dial’s since that is what is coming off the diameter.

[@MrAvjones]

I would call is a 1 to 1/2 ratio, I think I'm right? Great job Mr. Pete

[@ianbutler1983]

Very clever. Thanks, I enjoy all your videos, even the dreaded 3D printing ones that you say are not popular.

[@whitehoose]

Looking at the finished article - it's so close to something you'd find on a store. When you go in close however there are some irregularities - only cosmetic ... not a big deal. BUT ... just out of interest what (if any) are the finishing options? Some plastics just chew up and are ruined if the surface is disturbed. Some you can shine with only a little effort. Can that plastic be machined or sanded to give a smoother face. Not getting silly with graded papers or compounds - just a quick skim with something to improve the finish.

[@mrpete222]

This material does not machine at all. And it sands very poorly

[@MotoRestoFL]

Wish somebody made these for the 618 Atlas. I'm having a time trying to replace my graduated collar.

[@keithw372]

i have two of the exact same lathes, love the vids.. i am 2nd owner of one and the other i bought for parts off ebay for 300.00,mine are the 12 inch from the 70's

[@75Bird455]

Mr. Pete - the adjustable reamer you used. Do you have any video's on how to set these up? I've recently acquired two from an antique store, but I'm not sure on how you go about accurately setting the size.

[@gregfeneis609]

It seems like the black dial goes with how a machine should traditionally look, although red isn't so bad. If I were designing a machine, I might make each graduated dial a different color.

[@barefoofDr]

I like the black body with the white letters. Because it looks easier to read.

[@Landrew0]

I think the lettering will need some durable clear finish to prevent it getting stained with dirt or worn off.

[@bshusted]

I'm looking at making or printing some large "direct reading" dials for my 12" Atlas lathe and came across this. Do you lose any travel on the cross slide when you retract the tool? I'm worried that the top of the dovetail might come back and run into the dial.

[@rosscheater8165]

I definitely prefer the black, it is a greater contrast therefore easier to see.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Those came out great, easy to read. What size nozzle do you use on your printer?

[@davemason6273]

I don't have a 3D printer but what would the result be if you put the ones with raised graduations on the lathe and turned them down but not as far as the base material? Would the turning change the colour tone of the graduations, & by how much? Thanks for sharing.

[@davemason6273]

Or more ambitious could you laminate another colour on top, then turn down until you just cut into the graduations and seeing their colour as the "background"so to speak?

[@dimmaz88]

Absolutely great videos, as I've got an incomplete lathe compound and recently bought a 3D printer, I think I'll be making a few. I'll just have to figure out how to design myself some metric ones for a Myford 😁

[@rogeroconnor5182]

did you ever think that this technology couldve existed while you were a teacher???? hopefully 3D printers will become affordable,it seems there are endless things that could be made. black gets my vote,thanks again for everything you do

[@tinker5291]

Hi Mr. Peterson. I would very much like to upgrade my Atlas cross slide dial to the 200 graduation dial. Loved this video! A little off topic; is there any way to get a slower feed rate on my lathe with a quick change gearbox? Maybe a smaller gear on the banjo?

[@mrpete222]

Not really. Did you see my older video on slow feeds. Using a motorized lead screw

[@grayduster]

Hi mrpete222 - nice video on the dials! Have you tried using acetone/chemical smoothing (then re-finishing) to get rid of the layer defects? I'm just getting to grips with my own CR10-S, think I may try it :)

[@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71]

You done it again master.....

[@anthonyvancampen6729]

Color me silly, but I like the idea of having the direct dials made one color, and the indirect dials a different color. Then you have a visual clue in addition to the graduations for what kind of reading. Might help keep Mr. Bozo on the far side of the room.

[@mrpete222]

Good idea

[@CraftedChannel]

For my simulated metal parts, I like black or gray. Silver and all other colors don't seem to look right. The lock washer is not a stock part on that lathe. The dials look fantastic.

[@CraftedChannel]

Maybe the one I tore down was missing the part then. I have another Commercial in storage. I'll check it.

[@nikond90ful1]

Thanks for the video, If you paint the raised printed ones all black/white then put them on the lathe and sand, thay may show up ok.

[@roadrunnerricka4441]

If I had to choose I'd go with black with white numbers. Great video. Awhile back I purchased a thread dial printed in silver in kit form for my South bend 9a from eBay. Was a fun project and works well. I would like to put on the large dial on the old S.B. 9a. but I don't have a printer. I haven't looked around much yet but I wonder if anybody is selling them?

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

I bet they show up on ebay before too long.

[@roadrunnerricka4441]

ShysterLawyer , yes I'll keep an eye out for one.

[@Aubreykun]

I like the black better for now. but I think yellow or neon green plastic (or just the red if you want to use what you have) with black silicone numbers might be the most visible. As it wear and gets dirty the numbers might start to become nonvisible from grit adhering to the silicone and making it dark up to the same color as the dial itself. If it were dark numbers you wouldn't have this issue, I think.

[@mrpete222]

🤙

[@CraftedChannel]

I find parts look better and are tougher with at least 3 shells. This effects thread strength as well as you are not cutting past the outer shell wall when threading.

[@Blackcountrysteam]

Mr Pete red/black bith look good but I think white with black lettering could soon become 'gruby' and not so easily read.

[@cosimomarotta9552]

Chinese people always say: write dark to see clear. So my preference is white dial and black divisions. Anyway, mr Pete is the only and master of connection between old breed and new wave machinist. Applause.

[@MikeBramm]

I've always used plain old crayons to fill indented markings. I get a 8-pack of colored generic crayons from the 99 cent store. Just rub a contrasting color into the indentations, then buff it off with a tissue. It works great.

[@robert5]

Do they actually make white crayons? Don't think so... but hay maybe they do?

[@yanwo2359]

I like the red and white best. My guess is it'll be 50/50. :) I'd like to see finer lines on the 200 count.

[@deemstyle]

Do you think that silicone would work as well on the metal dials also?

[@rodswim492]

Do you make any of the direct wheels to sell?

[@rodswim492]

I really like the red.

[@anthonypirrello2473]

It looks like you have brought into the 3D printer concept. I vote for the red dial with the white numerical.

[@larrysmall3521]

Very Nice! Is there a way to print the main dial in black and then change the filament to white and print raised numbers and lines on the black dial in white?

[@farmdadco]

Not on the CR10 printer , I think it would be possible on a dual extruder printer by using two colors of pla when printing the part , but not by going back and doing another operation . There is no way to really index a part , nor does the print head(s) have an axis to tilt and add material other than straight down . Hope that makes sense ..

[@larrysmall3521]

That makes sense. Thank You

[@roydrgw614]

Mr. Pete, Very nice work - this project is gonna be one I want to tackle but I have no 3-D printer. Are these dials (already printed) available from thingiverse?

[@TKC_]

Roy&D&RGW they link to a 3d print service on thingiverse if you want. You can also order from many online 3d print services if you want to chose your own just send them the files.

[@noelhenderson700]

I kind of like the black with white but I wouldn't throw the red one away either.

[@tonybaggett1984]

I like the red, but the black seems easier to read.

[@ajelsinore9690]

Great video as always. Do you think it would be better to print a " ring " with the graduations on it and then press it onto an aluminum collar? It would look more like the Hardinge lathe dials and save tons of time on the printing. Thanks for all your videos and keep them as long as you want.

[@dicksargent3582]

Agreed , just what I was thinking.

[@georgewocosky]

My first thought was to print the grads, then adhere to the correct diameter - silk screening would work, not to mention computer printed with modern inks. The printing could / should be overlaid with a protective film. . . maybe a light activated enamel ? :) Answers are always as easy but opposite the problems. " If you can't make it ACCURATE, make it ADJUSTABLE" !

[@tomherd4179]

That is a great idea. It would be stronger and take much less time printing. Possibly use PETG filament instead of PLA because PETG is somewhat flexible if pressed over a collar. Plus the infill could be greatly increased, even up to 100%.

[@theworkshopmechanicchannel3296]

I’d go with the black dial Mr Pete 🙂

[@karlgross2486]

Just to muddy the waters a bit, on my Harrison lathe the dial reads 200, and the compound feeds .200 for one full turn, takes .400 off the diameter. Need to be careful and know your lathe.

[@jimbeaver3426]

My top choice is a BLACK body with infill WHITE lettering. Red or other colors are subject to fading in UV sources such as sunlight or fluorescent lighting which will soon be obsoleted by LEDs.

[@daleburrell6273]

Isopropyl alcohol works good on Sharpie marks- if you don't wait too long...

[@f4dphantomII]

I prefer the black with white lettering. Somehow, the red just doesn't look like it belongs on a machine tool.

[@davidberndt6275]

Use both colors, red for indirect and black for direct. That way you know exactly what you're walking up to.