Automatic 3D Print Removal using G-Code

3D printers already do so much of the work on their own, but why not take it a bit further with a bit of extra g-code?
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[@paryzfilip]

Firstly: you don’t have to input coordinates for axis you don’t move, so, if you move only Y and Z axis you can have: G1 Y5 Z20 G1 Y25 Z19 G1 Y5 Z18 Then if you want to move carriage out of the way you have: G1 X100 Z20 G1 Z0 Also after the wire brushing part you could just do Z30 or Z40 and RMF there as the printer will go in straight line to the starting point on the bed. Secondly: For bigger prints you may want to wait as you said. Heatbed needs to be cooler. Then, you could use back of the carriage to knock things off. It’s wider, it’s stronger, it’s just as easy in GCode! :) Finally: Very cool video :) Ps. In the End GCode add: G92 E0 G1 E-2 First line resets the current position to the one you input. So this one sets current position of extruder to 0. Second line, retracts you filament back 2mm so it won’t ooze out the nozzle after the print. If you have the wire brush in the start code you can preheat the nozzle and purge a little on the right side of the wire brush, then clean, then print. This way you don’t need the brim ;) Also, the semicolons are optional, new lines divide new gcodes :)

[@ebee2433]

Hi, would you know how to change a FLSUN QQ-S-PRO to? I cant work it out. Currently via cura default is; M107 T0 M104 S0 M104 S0 T1 M140 S0 G92 E0 G91 G1 E-1 F300 G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 G28 X0 Y0 M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning Very grateful for any help

[@paryzfilip]

@@ebee2433 okay, I've been out of the 3d printing world for quite a while now, so I'm not sure if I'll be able to help, but describe what you need exactly and maybe we could work it out :)

[@3dPrintCreator]

I hope my clients don't see this video. They think my job is very, ehhh... Manual. :-)

[@KOth-xm8pp]

Same tho

[@atvheads]

Dont you watch the print?

[@levig-man4103]

Don’t you pet the print ?

[@slovakshadow1544]

@@levig-man4103 *? ? ?*

[@nathantowe4148]

I prefer to pet the nozzle

[@loserinthecorneroftheclass1829]

Taping the paper to the platform is such a simple yet very effective fix to a bigger problem. You're so creative!

[@dankg4688]

Knowing him, I can pretty much imagine him printing a sheet of flexible filament that would serve the same purpose but it's 3d printed so it's better at the same purpose

[@colleenforrest7936]

Let's make it more complex! How about some 3D printed rollers the fresh print could slide down? Bwahahaha!

[@GandhiTheDerg]

@@colleenforrest7936 hold my beer! XD

[@faridwakim]

@@colleenforrest7936 or how about a 3D Printed conveyor belt that would move the print as soon as it is done, and maybe like a robot that takes the prints and stacks them all together, like a miniature assembly line

[@AbdulIsik]

@@faridwakim next Henry Fordnite

[@alexfrenchmaker1903]

Man you are such an honest genius. You make things go forward for the makers community and the Futur. With all your projects and teaching... You truly deserve the 3dprinting ambassador award 2020 Thank you for existing.

[@NithinJune]

I was literally wondering about this yesterday... Google can definitely read my thoughts.

[@christiansrensen3810]

I tried that a few weeks back. I was thinking"only thinking" of a tool I needed,, and after a few hours.. Adds began to pop up.i was in my workshop...I wasn't talking to nobody.. but jet the add was precisely the tool I needed.. I was littely in shock. ..well also I bought it. :-)

[@user-pd4wz1oo3x]

that's doubleplusgood

[@kristofers6559]

I have thought about this idea for a long time, but I didn't know how I could do it, now I know. Great video as always!

[@PizzaCat1732]

same

[@marcferretti]

If i tried this it would break my printer. My prints stick too well

[@fusseldieb]

Let the print cool down first! Mine stick absurdly as well, but after reaching 60°C or less, they come off just by touching it. (ABS 230C-110C) There should be a "sleep" Gcode command. Use that in your favor...

[@achannelhasnoname5182]

Print with a little z offset

[@TheDartFrog]

lol my prints stick so well I can't get them off, then a few prints later they suddenly don't stick at all and then they stick super strong again xd

[@StopChangingUsernamesYouTube]

Ultrabase is a cheat code for this. It holds PETG and PLA like crazy at 80/60C respectively, then lets go below 30. You can blow a Benchy off the bed unless your nozzle height is too low. Downside being that it's only available as coated glass. So if you don't already have a glass plate in one of the sizes they offer that you can swap out, it's kinda off the radar. Upside is that it's pretty cheap as far as build plates go.

[@bobb7460]

Lucky, mine won’t get the first layer down.

[@mhelvens]

With some print surfaces, you may want to wait until they cool down before pushing the print off. With Prusa's powder coated sheet, for example. It lets go of the print after cooling down, and I believe there's a risk of damaging the sheet if you forcibly separate them too soon.

[@ghostgunner27]

Same with ender 6s glass bed

[@higuy55100]

Remember kids, to: G1 X210 Y5 Z20; G1 X210 Y25 Z19; G1 X210 Y5 Z18; G1 X210 Y25 Z17; G1 X200 Y5 Z17; every day for beautiful white teeth!

[@kuriositykid2294]

Markus Marrandi LoL

[@Amit-sp4qm]

@Al Bundy great comment .. actually did that yesterday to remove shaking of movement ..

[@michealkinney6205]

That's great! lol

[@JK360noscope]

That wire brush would scrap your enamel RIGHT off!

[@charlesvangelderphotographer]

_ David _ 4

[@Stagg369]

I think it's been years since I've commented on a youtube video, but you just keep on innovating with 3D printers. And I wanted to say that you deserve more recognition, I imagine your some sort of engineer, and It really show. Some of these ideas are novel, but it shows that you're capable of great things.

[@GoodRoads]

This is so cool! I was planning on trying something almost exactly like this, even down to the scraper or plow you described at the end to aid with part removal. It's great to see how easy it can be. The one idea I had that you haven't touched on here is: shimming or mounting the printer so it's tilted towards the front slightly. That way gravity helps clear the parts off the build plate after they've been dislodged. Great video!

[@SearchingForSounds]

Devin, you are such an innovator. This isn't just fun and smart, but will genuinely change how some people can make their living. WOW man.

[@terrarian0918]

me too, this is huge for my wallet

[@alexsimchuk881]

Love the idea! I do a lot of repetitive prints myself and have wanted to figure out an automated solution for clearing my bed. I was brainstorming some kind of robot arm that's beyond my engineering abilities, this is simple and only needs the tools I already have. Brilliant!

[@veitforabetterworld]

You should use G0 instead of G1 G1 moves the prinhead and extrudes G0 moves without extruding. You can also remove the coordinates you don't wanna move: E. G. Instead of: G1 X50 Y0 Z5 F500 G1 X50 Y200 Z5 F500 You can just write G0 X50 Y0 Z5 F500 G0 Y200

[@pontusvarghav4566]

”There is some stringing, but that has nothing to do with the actual modification”

[@philo8035]

Indeed, all his extra commands are using G1. It isn't just "stringing", it is literally extruding. edit: This is false.

[@philo8035]

@@pontusvarghav4566 That is in reference to the stringing within the cylinders. His new code is actually extruding between each though, it is quite obvious he used G1 instead of G0 with his new additions. edit: G1 and G0 have nothing to do with extruding :facepalm:

[@CgBrian]

If you are using G1 and don’t repeat things you don’t want moving- what happens? Does G1 interpret anything blank as zeros? A few comments down someone says you can omit things you don’t want to move with G1.. so I’m not understanding the reasoning you are recommending the use of G0? Oh maybe I’m confused, you are saying the G0 is to remove the extrusion- and just made your example of omitting non moves G0.. but you COULD still omit with a G1 correct?

[@garybarbourii8274]

The only difference between G0 and G1 is that G1 allows you to set the movement speed and G0 goes as fast as possible. It only extrude if followed by an Exx.xx parameter

[@MilanGajicBuva]

i tried this once manually ... remotely from work through octoprint. It broke the part of 2mm above the rintplate and shot it across the room. Crealty Ender 3 magnetic base has crazy adhesion.

[@demoniack81]

I have an Ender 3 Pro and I was thinking the same... if I tried this I'm not sure what would break, but I'm sure _something_ would.

[@stephenborntrager6542]

@@demoniack81 My LK4 has a similar buildtak surface, and there's no way it would ever release something without a fight... Cura gave one of my first prints a 15mm brim for some reason... I needed a hammer and a chisel to get it off!

[@marcosmoura911]

I guess you need to let it cool off xD

[@scottsound4711]

@@marcosmoura911 yes 😇

[@huh7270]

Probably better on glass

[@RudySmok]

I just did the same! At the beginning of the week i started to print a cable chain like that. I have now around 2,5 m long chain. Same idea!

[@yeetusfetus8687]

Woah, an endless chain?

[@DjZorlag]

Next, do agcode that assembles and installs it into your printer too!

[@aelooser]

Please share it :)

[@superpixelgamer7775]

@@aelooser I wonder if he is still printing

[@knifeyonline]

@@superpixelgamer7775 pretty sure

[@MasterFX2000]

You are just the most creative 3D-Printing guy on KZbin!

[@tomisexi]

This man is the most influencial guy in the hole makers community!! Thank you Devin!!

[@mandarin1257]

I love the hole maker community, they make great holes

[@The_Draque]

The auto nozzle brushing is frickin brilliant. My hats off to you

[@-Name-here-]

I’m watching while printing on my anycubic i3 mega I bought based on your recommendation and I love it thank you for this great content 👍

[@jpaugh64]

This is a great idea! You can get this to work with taller prints (or prints of any size) by replacing the "Move up and back" code at 4:15 with these lines: G91 G1 Z10 G90 G1 X105 Y195 G1 Z1 F3000 The G92 means relative positioning, which means the G1 Z20 moves 20 mm from /wherever/ you are now. G90 switches back to "normal mode," so that the other commands work the same way you expect. This change means that moving the print-head up works even if your print is bigger than 50 mm (or any size), as long as you have a small gap between the top of the part and the highest z-height available.

[@jameshamstead4709]

I would love to see a 3D printing challenge series based on the comments

[@jameshamstead4709]

To improve on this idea you could create a robot that has a microphone to listen to the sounds the printer makes that then sends a bar across the top of the print bed after a sequence of sounds are made by the printer (the sounds could be set in G code). This also means that the part can be pushed further, and it could then land in a box.

[@Tubaii25]

@@jameshamstead4709 I think using a servo with an arm attachment would be a nice way to sweep prints off the bed. Although, I understand that this would be limited to open boards that expose the servo controls. Marlin supports the M280 command to set position of the servo. Do proprietary boards like the Creality ones have servo outputs?

[@colleenforrest7936]

@@jameshamstead4709 how about a scraper option for prints with a larger atachment profile?

[@make.anything]

Who's got some g-code wisdom to share? What's your favorite command.. what else can I do??

[@ajayrathode7553]

I always had the same idea to do this. But got limited due to less knowledge on Gcode editing. Anyways you have the most original content brother. Inspired. Keep going . All the best.

[@Inventorsquare]

Make Anything g1 should be modal, so you can just enter it once and it will be that way until you change it, just like feedrate, so be careful.

[@AbeFM]

There's a long standing bug with Prusa's handling of MMU2 with TPU, where the prints are done at 35% speed, making an already long MMU print go from hours to days. So setting the speed back in filament settings with M900 K60; Filament gcode M220 S100; Abe Speed Fixing Awesome video!

[@craftxbox]

Have you looked into m23 and m24? It allows you to start an SD print in the gcode, so you can just select and print the next file instead of concatenating them all into one file.

[@MM-tg4lu]

Why you don`t use g23 to repeat the cycle?

[@g0balot]

This is pure artistic genius. Love the wire brush move!

[@verebellus]

i had this idea a long time ago and i think ive commented it on several 3d printer videos but idk when where and anything. but its great to see the idea pop into others head aswell and actually become real :D

[@benjaminchen4367]

That brush is actually genius. PETG always does that blobbing crap and I have to sit there and manually scrape it off at just the right time lmao

[@SianaGearz]

When i read the title, i knew exactly what you were going to do! But to be honest, i wouldn't ever have come up with the idea otherwise. Here's a variation on the detachment sequence i can think of on the spot: ; maybe move to the back of the bed here first? M106 ;set fan to full speed to facilitate cooling M140 S30 ;set bed cool enough to detach the print, start cooldown M190 R60 ;cool the nozzle low enough to not mar the print, wait for nozzle to reach temperature M180 R30 ;actually wait for the bed to get cold ; insert the movement commands to knock down the print here This is Marlin-specific, not Repetier, and not sure how far back the supported versions go, but anything semi-recent should be OK.

[@make.anything]

Great suggestions 👍

[@blackturbine]

This is great if you are building something large with multiple small pieces you can just leave it run over night and in the morning you just assembe everything together

[@H0B0J03]

I think some kind of snowplow-like attachment on the front of your extruder might help push off smaller pieces

[@cameronmalchow1837]

@@H0B0J03 without getting in the way of the print head and current print?

[@H0B0J03]

@@cameronmalchow1837 Yup, the plough would start a few mm above the nozzle- its not meant to scoop prints off the bed like a spatula, more of pushing surface to knock parts off without having to rely on directly contacting the extruder bits, giving you a wider area to push with. Like a bumper of sorts.

[@snickerdoooodle]

Oh hey, I've used this method before! I used to print a ton of keyboard keys but my area has frequent power surges (but I couldn't afford a decent UPS at the time). So rather than print a big batch of keys at once, I printed on a squeaky clean glass build plate and waited for the key to cool off. Then a printed "bumper" (attached to the extruder) would bump into the key and knock it off into a cup on my desk. It was super effective and once I get my printer printing consistently enough for well-fitting keys, I'll be going back to this.

[@NightmareN1nja]

thanks for the video very helpful. coudnt get the beeps to work but the automate code you made worked perfectly for what i needed. I switched the G1 to G0 and didnt need to clean the extruder in between prints. next im trying a G4 code to let it cool a little bit, then ill be designing pieces to scoop them into the trap. wish me luck.

[@WorldLaughsWithYou]

I use m99 loop to print production parts 24/7 with filament runout detection. make sure to home at end of program and 3x3 abl and you're rocking.

[@GEOsustainable]

Brilliant. I was hoping to add some automation to my new 3D printer. This is just the start I need, thanks.

[@fuchsmode]

There's an M-command which tells the machine to rewind the program and restart it. For CNC mills and lathes it's the M31 command I believe. I don't know if it's the same for Marlin 3D printers, but maybe you should try that, it'd be much less hassle as you could just add it in the slicer and the filesizes would be much smaller for even larger production runs.

[@make.anything]

The real pro tips are in the comments 😉 thanks!

[@RicardoSicks]

THIS! and add an offset to reach a clean build plate area

[@nf794]

@@make.anything thats why this is called a Community we help each other while checking on the loop you should also look into additive offset which allows you to repeat it as many times as you want with a given x y z offset

[@stephenborntrager6542]

M31 is the "Print Time" command, in Marlin. Sadly, I cannot find any restart, loop, jump, or conditional branch commands of any sort. The closest is M32, which allows you to run another G-Code file, which could possible be used to start the same file again, but there is a risk of stack overflow, if previous g-code is not aborted when a new file is run. Marlin either does not have all g-codes implemented, or their documentation is incomplete.

[@captainironbat8193]

IT tOoK mE foREvER TO FInD tHIS vIdeO AGaIN!!! KZbin SUCKS. this is honestly the best video on 3d printing I've seen. Thank you so much.

[@nicokypreos]

Thanks, this worked perfectly. Printing in PETG which sticks extremely well to the bed so I added; M190 R40 before "move print " So that when Bed temperature reaches 40c the print easily releases.

[@alexp2011a]

what kind of bed coating do you have? I'm interested in trying it with PETG, i've had this filament for a while but hasn't tried it yet, but i've heard that it is difficult to remove it from PEI and some glue should be used in between.

[@nicokypreos]

Alex polyenov Using a textured Prusa bed, I’ve had a few fails with the print not releasing at 40c. PLA would be better for sure. Once I get it sorted I’ll post settings.

[@alexp2011a]

@@nicokypreos Thank you! Much appreciated. I'll keep an eye for the update. My Prusa bed is smooth PEI, so i imagine it would be even stronger adhesion than textured. I'm specifically interested in PET/PETG for their properties. PLA wouldn't work for me for its very low melt temp/

[@nicokypreos]

@@alexp2011a ok so using PETG and Textured bed, releasing temperature is 27c, print slides off

[@dragonhunter2475]

you can use a piece of silicone sheet to wipe the nozzle instead of the brush as seen on most of the purge buckets on thingiverse

[@authorizeduser6507]

I like how you’re always pushing the tech. Great build!

[@turrboenvy4612]

My i3 Mega S arrives today! Guess I'm running out for googly eyes.

[@Kevin-tc3ob]

Great idea - I think you should you a softer bristle brush though as the wire one may damage the nozzle over time.

[@Scott_C]

Piece of cardboard from a cereal box may work better than a sheet of paper. Could create a trough so they slide into a box.

[@dragonhunter2475]

I have been doing this for a while but i always had the problem of the objects falling under the print bed your paper idea solves this

[@lewiekab]

That's badass. The brush idea is genius.

[@syranth8912]

If you get serious with production you could print your own mods. I love this hobby.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

That's really cool. Always good to see people experiment outside the box like this. Unfortunately my bed adhesion would break parts off the print head instead regardless of bed temp. Oh... that brush. It might add a bit of wear/deformation to the nozzle orifice. Just saying. ☺️

[@baklap141]

Haha yeah I think my printer also would break , my models stick so damn good I need quite a lot force to get it off the bed.

[@cozmoticskillissue]

There is indeed a gcode command for looping, it only works with sd card printing. M808 L[count of loops/*0* for infinite] [the gcode you want to loop...] M808

[@rodsnyder6020]

I've heard this idea from Sanjay Mortimer in a conversation with Tom Sanladerer when they were talking about tool changing and belt drives if I remember correctly. But you are the first person I see to actually use this techniqe. Well done mate! Oh and just increase the distance between skirt and object to not drag plastic gunk into your prints. Cheers!

[@farukkrat9052]

thanks for that educational video. am so glad to find ur channel ))

[@kaovilai]

There's a plugin on octoprint for this I think. No SD Card limitation, the computer loops through the code without storing the whole thing in SD Card.

[@marlerman111]

What is the plug-in called?

[@sallerc]

It's called "Continuous Print"

[@EvelynH-tj1qt]

F stands for feed, when using a CNC mill or other similar machine, the speed or S is for RPM of the tool. Edit: G code is modal, that means if you wanted to move to say X1 Y1 Z1 but you wanted to do each axis at a time you could type G01 X1 F10 Y1 Z1 Because any command or value you have entered already, stays the same until you say otherwise.

[@TheDgdimick]

Totally new to 3d printing, and really enjoy your videos. Very cool use of G code.

[@purplemunkecustomz6996]

😂 great job. I have bee doing this with octoprint for the last few months (removing the print from the bed), while at work. Never crossed my mind to do it via gcode, and with multiple repeat models. I have done a range of small to medium prints. With very large surface area used on the bed (some 175mm x 175mm surface area has been the largest). Now I have an easier way, now I can really print nonstop

[@SurpriseFox]

I did this for my d&d miniatures. They print much better one at a time.

[@GianlucaRolle]

Man you're a genious! Everytime you come up with original ideas! Incredible

[@tech_r6665]

Can you make the 3d printer wait until the bed is cooled down before pushing it off? I print on glass and prints are very hard to remove when the bed is still warm.

[@cpace123]

I have a belt printer, but as you might know due to the 45 degree head, some thing don't print as well, and some print better. But I wanted belt printer that has the traditional xyx. So I was getting ready to convert one of my bed slingers, but I might just try this first. One thing I plan to do is on my models build in some kind of angel relief so a scraper and get under that and pull it off. I know this is an old video, but it still great. And one of my printers is an i3 Mega

[@SergioGugliandolo]

Just a wonderful idea! You don't know you much you do my life easier with all this g-code modifications! Very cool job :)

[@Lemonbud]

Love the vids man. I've been printing for a good couple of years and I learned a lot of tips from ya. And thanks for the Fusion tuts. Great stuff and very inspiring! I do a lot of full cosplay prints and is awesome to finish and paint. Really getting a good hold of making my own designs and learned quite a bit from watching your vids. Thanks!

[@jeroldmccarty2619]

Just found this video. Thank you so much for it. I have an application for shallow parts that may need a scraper like you mentioned.

[@brandonmack111]

There's definitely room for optimization, but this is a really cool, simple hack. Thanks for the video!

[@raspberrypiploy771]

Really good video. Am in the process of doing the same on my cr10s. I am using the secondary extruder output on the motherboard to lower a long scraper. At the end of the print the y axis moves as far forward as possible. Then I cool the bed and leave for a few minutes. At this point the e1 stepper lowers a long blade to the bed surface and the y axis moves backwards slowly. In theory this should work as my printer is tuned exceptionally well. I don’t use any printed platform additions or things like glue or tape. Also I have found that even using all of the bed providing it’s cooled right down and also the model is cooled the prints come off with no effort at all.

[@Chupria]

This works really well on a Printer that has a bed that moves up and down. I use this method on the XYZ Davinci and it works. No need for paper I only place a bin and collect the prints.

[@bmorlok84]

I'm new to printing, but I program milling machines.. where you manually entered for the wipe on the brush you shouldn't have to repeat the x value if its not changing. Great video!

[@rickman297]

When I updated Cura, It added in a sweet little piece of gcode where it makes a couple lines of the left side of the bed to make sure it's flowing filament. It's a great little feature they added in.

[@poruatokin]

Drink a shot every time he says "go ahead" Won't work anyway, my base sticks so well I'd break my printer.

[@SergioNayar]

What a wonderful idea and execution! Kudos for sharing this awesome tip!

[@RalphDratman]

You are mistaken about one thing: you ARE now a programmer. Be proud.

[@make.anything]

Haha thanks, I suppose so :)

[@jamieeast4974]

Programming is just like giving directions to a lost person.

[@SudaNIm103]

This is perfect for printing Plastic Drag Chain elements or the like.

[@stephenborntrager6542]

I lol'd at 0:23! Too bad my LK4 Pro has silent steppers... I'm glad to see somebody actually willing to talk about G-Code. Too many people just don't want anything to do with it. If I had to print hundreds of the same part, I would probably try to mod my printer to have a servo controlled 'scraper' that can be deployed with some M42 commands. ...although in my case all it would do is break things, because my prints won't come off even with a putty knife. The nozzle brush is an interesting idea! My filament oozes and curls back up onto the nozzle! It's so messy that a bed wipe is not enough, even with a brim!

[@BuildEver]

You could use M32 or M24 to load "sub programs" from SD card and create one master file then just change home offset (M206) between prints.

[@StopChangingUsernamesYouTube]

Considering that printer has Ultrabase, you could also wait for the bed and nozzle to cool before knocking prints off. Considering how PLA and PETG practically jump off the bed below 30C, It should be much healthier for the bed and get rid of the melting problem. It'd add about ten minutes between each print, but it'd help keep things reliable.

[@dittot]

I’ve always thought about this being possible but never knew how to do it. Amazing. Thanks for sharing this.

[@RenatoMeneses]

Props man! Fantastic! Just a little creativity and a few knowledge you showed it help a lot!

[@obe22099]

Cool idea to expand on for fun. Adding code to do a more complex clean up of the plate and nozzle might be worth a try. Those pieces left behind on the plate are enough to trigger my PTSD lol

[@tornapart75]

Should have put the wire brush on the left hand side..it stops the stringing from ending up on the print plate..this has been done many times before. Knocking the prints off is something i havent seen before tho.

[@PedroNunes-ub1ue]

Perhaps also a pause with G4 Px (x number of miliseconds) before removal to let the print bed cooldown for easier removal... Or even better: M109 Rx (x extruder temperature to wait for) M190 Rx (x bed temperature to wait for)-->this one depends on software temperature tolerance settings

[@jamieeast4974]

Seems good. Larger parts vs well stuck on a hot bed. Would be interested to see a larger part coming off of a hot bed ?

[@TheTinkerDad]

IMHO whether this works or not highly depends on what kind of material you're printing with, to what kind of print surface, etc. I'm printing PLA on PEI and it sticks way too well as long as the bed is warm. So in my case, I'd need to cool the bed first, then knock of the print. Cool idea regardless!

[@RemovedBrain]

I'm not interested in autoremoval, but brush on unused end of bed is absolutly brilliant idea.... going to print brush-holder with your logo... :)

[@juliejones8785]

I would use a nozzle flow/purge line before each print. Just put them off to the side and each one at a different y position. That way you start each object with a good flow, as if you printed a skirt.

[@matthiaseberhard1991]

I like your Idea. Maybe a little bit mechanical updates are needed but ... nice! ... But you only can do that with the glas-plate. And if you wait until the plate is cooled down than you can also remove bigger parts automaticly from the built plate.

[@Sentinel851]

how about a Gcode to create a claw for the print head, once it's done printing (and cooled down enough), it moves into the claw (probably with some clips that'll catch on the top of the print head), and then moves into a position where it can pick up something with the claw? or perhaps if there's a print head with 2 fans that can be controlled individually, rewire one of the fans to run a little motor (probably with a gear system attached) to grab stuff and assemble it off the bed or a see saw style lever, that the print head moves to press down (and potentially trigger a cool mechanism)

[@micahproulx1989]

Your a genius and your super creative

[@spagamoto]

Nice. You might be able to reduce the between-print pause (and resultant blobs) by removing the wait-for-temperature command at the start of the 2nd and beyond prints. Even if the printer is already at the correct temperature it will wait for a few seconds for the temperature anyway. For people comfortable using the command line, the "cat" terminal command can be used to concatenate the files. "cat AMBI-1.gcode AMBI-2.gcode AMBI-3.gcode > AMBI-auto.gcode", or, fancier, "cat AMBI-?.gcode > AMBI-auto.gcode"

[@3dprintwiz378]

This must be the best tip for 3d printing so far. Very useful for mass production. What is the code in order for printer to wait until bed is cold then knock off the parts?

[@SianaGearz]

M190 R30 30 is just an arbitrarily chosen temperature by me where i feel it should release; experiment with this value. R is necessary to actually wait for cooldown, if temperature is specified with S like usual, only the warmup sequence waits. This G-code is Marlin specific. In Repetier, no dice.

[@ge2719]

to do this for larger prints what you need a is a 3d printed robot arm that the printer communcates with when its done and the arm grabs the print based on the shape of it :P

[@soap_4968]

You want killer robots? That’s how you get killer robots

[@labellesworkshop]

I've been doing this by using octoprint and moving the axises manually 😂 it's cool that this then popped up in my recommended so I can save time by automating

[@enriquecourtade]

Congratulations! Always going one step ahead of current knowledge

[@ceruleanwake8876]

*Woke up late, haven't gotten completely ready for the day yet.* 19:56 😳 I feel attacked!

[@UncleSammy]

Thank for the tips to make my prints less stringy

[@alexr7325]

perfect, look something to improve my work with my 3D Printer and now have found it! You are the best

[@chorec]

Do not merge the files in one, it creates large files, so it is not real continuous printing. Just use M32 command to start printing the .gcode file - that way you can run one file several times. (If your printer supports it. Maybe it could be also done with M23 and M24 commands.) See gcode specs.

[@KeckerErt]

But please add a steam engine bumper at the front, for better part removal. Maybe Thomas the Tankengine style.

[@mikrom]

you can join all files together in command line like this: copy AMBI-1.gcode+AMBI-2.gcode+AMBI-3.gcode AMBI-auto.gcode ;)

[@Dimitri2014]

Cool idea ! deff work great with some prints and not so much with others. and for the peeps that have to chop at your print to get it off your glass, this is deff not for you. Use your judgment and dont break your printer.

[@RicardoSicks]

Yeah, I don't fancy using my printer as a hammer, I'll just have to enable a bed cooldown (which makes my prints pop off the glass like butter) then reheat, rinse, (haha) and continue..

[@imnota]

What makes this possible is the ultrabase surface, if you indeed do that on a buildtak or blue tape, the printer will most likely get stuck and break something. But the ultrabase somehow stick well enough that you will never have a print come off on it's own, but if you try pushing the print, it'll just remove easily. Especially if you let it cool down.

[@jamesthorogood1479]

I have actually been using this kind of method for over a year now, to mass manufacture parts for the air rifle accessories that I sell. I can leave my Ender 2 running overnight and wake up to 9 parts in a box next to it.

[@alejandroperez5368]

No, how can it clean its nozzle by itself? And who applies the hair spray?

[@jamesthorogood1479]

Alejandro Pérez I don’t understand what you mean? 1. I don’t use hair spray, I just use the default bed. And 2. You don’t need to clean the nozzle manually, since you can prime the nozzle at the start of each print, or set up more custom gcode to wipe the nozzle on a toothbrush before each print.

[@alejandroperez5368]

@@jamesthorogood1479 you can't print without hair spray on glass or metallic surfaces.

[@jamesthorogood1479]

Alejandro Pérez Then why assume I am using glass or metal print surfaces? I use the buildtak-like sheet that comes with the Ender 2 and Ender 3, works brilliantly

[@joelaw728]

Cool to see someone else using and Ender 2 still for mass production, have you done any modifications to yours? Suffering from a long standing under extrusion issue with mine at the minute

[@juggalizzle75]

Idk if mine would knock the print off or sit there and bind due to being so stuck to the glass

[@Richter3D]

If you're using an adhesive that would release as it cools, you can use the G4 Dwell command to make the printer sit there and wait as it cools, and then when the time you specify has passed do the push procedure. This is what I did before I got PrintBite+ which doesn't need that cooldown time to release.

[@EllTheBob]

Gary Brower if it’s glass your probably fine. Try manually moving the bed in the menu when the print is done

[@tav422]

I had the same thought. I have a hard enough time trying to pry the part off the glass.

[@RandomSmith]

My prints with a reasonable amount of surface are welded to my plate and need a blade to pry them off...

[@juggalizzle75]

Ya sometimes I have to work to get the model off with a scraper on my glass bed. Sometimes I did run several of the same part and this would be nice but I don't want to intentionally decrease my adhesion. Oh well.

[@ניצןסלטון]

hey, first ever YT comment here, been following you quite a while. so to my understanding, the Anycubic uses Marlin based firmware, so you might try these commands at the end of your code: M32 {filename}.gco ; select and start a sd file. it that isn't working, try: M23 {filename}.gco ;call a fille m24 ;start a file, basically does the same as M32 but with 2 functions. however this doesn't have any quantity control, so you might want to make a new "master" gcode and make the prints as sub-rutine, don't know If it works. I know on RepRap firmware you have the ability to call a sub-rutine using M98 and have up to 5 nested sub-rutines in one code, e.g: M98 1.g ;first print will run, at the end of it either use M99 or it will set back automaticly M98 2.g ;second print M98 3.g ;etc so if you have a RepRap based printer you might want to try it as well. good luck

[@carbide1968]

Just a few ideas while watching your cool video. You could tilt the printer 45° forward so the parts fall off better and also shouldn't you write Z commands first like z20 x200 y50 so that the head always moves up and out of the way before table moves or is that automatic?

[@make.anything]

Tilting the printer is a clever idea! As far as the order of the coordinates, the xy and z move together unless they're put as separate lines, which I did do for a few of the movements

[@chrinamint]

I’m thoroughly impressed that your bed is so pristine that you can do this! I’m brand new and I’ve only done a couple of prints. My cat came off pretty well but still probably stuck too much for this. But everything else has stuck really hard. Awesome if you can do it tho! And I also enjoyed the beeping part of your video. I hate that mine doesn’t beep to let me know the print is done. I would like to be able to add that and now I know it can be done! Also how about that Pikachu print head!!

[@der.Schtefan]

I recommend you install Visual Studio Code from Microsoft (for free). It has GCODE editing support via various extensions, and is also quite a good text editor in general.