My 6-71 Blower rebuild, Part 14: Final assembly.

[@shawnramsay1851]

After assembling a few of these I learned that if you bevel the leading edge of the seal surface with a fine lathe file then polish it theres no need for seal protectors and the bearings can be pressed in on a surface with support rather than tapping them in after with only the case supporting it. Sometimes they go in really tight especially on some of the after market plates I have purchased. Your able to check and make sure bearings are still smooth before pressed on rotor as well. Cheers love these videos

[@secularsunshine9036]

On my aluminum carb adapter I cut it out on my table saw with a carbide blade. For the square openings for the carbs I used a hole saw for the round corners, then I cut the center out with my hand held Jig saw. On the side of the carb adapter for linkage clearance first I drill holes for round corners then I finished cutting out the indentations on my band saw. To smooth out all the saw cuts I used my table router and carefully guiding the adapter by hand then I cleaned it up with a file. I polished it to a brilliant shine with 2500 wet sandpaper and counter sunk the bolt holes. I needed a 1/2" adapter to keep this 8-71 and carbs under the hood of my 56 Caddy with a 500 cid. I have a 1 1/2" clearance under the hood for affixing side mounted air cleaners. I'm so happy.

[@gregschultz2029]

Very Nice Job On Your Videos,I’ve Watched Them All On The 6-71 Build !!!

[@byronnelson1556]

Nice job. I may have missed installing dowel,pins and relocating them to adjust top and bottom clearances . A number of ways to do this and repairing over size or wallowed out holes was done in the early days. At times it was a tricky operation.as you might only have to move holes a few thousandths of an inch. I made a separate end plate with hard bushings fo guiding drills or readers. Occasionally a hole could get deformed and it became very difficult to over size or drill and ream for a repair bushing. Having a milling machine and boring head made life much easier. It still took precision work to do correctly. A bad backfire or motor explosion could distort the cas so that meant a new unit. These used to be available for 50-100 bucks in good shape an sometime you could find a near new one that’s had many hours on it but very clean air cleaners so they might be near perfect inside. I had several streetrods I drove for years an I built several more for other guys. We ran these on top fuel dragsters and top gas cars then top alsohol funny cars. Noe most of these are billet construction so perfect when new. They usually have nylatron strips in the seal areas and depend on the fuel for a bit of cooling and lubrication. No fees are very good but better than none.

[@MakerCave]

Very cool stories from the golden days of drag racing. Yes, the dowel pin part of the project is outlined in the part 13 video, here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZaVdaWqj6ZnnZI

[@firstname6208]

here's a shortcut to c and cc clearance adjustment. no need to push the gears on several times. even with new parts. start both gears on the shaft. tap them sufficiently to prevent them falling off. measure the c and cc, tap one gear or the other until proper clearance is achieved. now take the depth mic or calipers, measure the difference in height from one gear to the other gear. that's how much shim to add. do not ask how i figured this out. (hanging head in shame it took so long).

[@mikeberry2135]

Thanks for this tip! It’s so simple and makes perfect sense! Why didn’t I think of it?! I’m in the process of converting my first 6-71 and will definitely do this.

[@Go4BrokeOffroad]

Hopefully I can get mine to work. Appreciate all the videos

[@davidstiver4240]

Great job I used to rebuild blowers injectors all the gm diesel years ago

[@Hitman-ds1ei]

So did I but I advise not using handle to stop it turning and to use a rag as Detroit recommend as you can cause deformation to rotor with localized pressure, also rotor clearance is an issue if not running fuel thru it as temperature of rotor alters dimension as can be verified by different spec for turbo application FWIW

[@mikealdag7309]

Very detailed video thank you

[@rongreen8485]

Detroit Diesel sells over size shaft sleeves and Teflon seals, plus the tools to install both. Blowers are simple to rebuild just pay close attention to clearances and shims behind drive gears. Never seen anyone cut the backside of the gears always used shims. good luck sir

[@herbhartman7528]

Your vid has been a great help for me rebuilding my 671! Thank you! One thing I noticed on the positioning of rotors you are showing blank spline at 3:00! My gears have two dots on one gear and one dot on the other! I'm presuming those dots should be lined up rather then the 3:00 position you showed? It's the same thing I think just 1/3 trun off gets my dots lined up! Hope it's right!

[@Unicorns]

I was fascinated by this video :)

[@muhammadjalalkhan3909]

Excellent

[@davidsanders6957]

Poor boy, tryin my best not to be a hater ! Hatin the fact its not sticking outta my car hood !! LOL

[@aaronnavarro6083]

what an amazing job!

[@kailashnsingh9811]

👍 Very good job

[@MrPdforeman]

Bob the builder. Good job!!

[@junebrooks665]

Great information thank you ever so much

[@FlatBroke612]

I called Dyers several times with no answer, emailed them stating that I intended to buy an 8-71 kit from them and never got any response. Called BDS and got a far superior blower for just a little more money and it arrived in a week. Dyers can pound sand.

[@MakerCave]

What a shame that Dyers appears to have gone downhill in recent years. They used to be the go-to guys in the Midwest, but I guess any business can decline over time. Hope that you get great results with your kit from Blower Drive Service.

[@nhatcuongtruong2683]

Thank your video

[@FelipeGarcia-ff9kb]

Great video. How can I know the clearance required for a Busch pump WP500 D?

[@RideSlide13]

Q: why can we not use the shims on a petrol application? Will they burn out? Changing rotor timing? Also I don't have a lathe and am miles from civilization. I am thinking of using a sheet metal plate 0.8-1.2mm thick to space the rotor ends from the end plate for grow room. Kina like a thick gasket but between the housing and endplate.

[@MakerCave]

If it is not a racing application, I would not hesitate to use the shims to time the rotors. I only machined the back of my gears to time the rotors because I have all of the proper equipment to do so, and then next time I tear the blower down, I don't have to worry about juggling shims. You do not need to put any shim stock or gaskets between the end plates and the blower case. The two existing flat surfaces seal fine as they are with only a light coat of sealer. As long as the end clearance is correct, that provides all the room for heat growth that you need. Good luck getting your blower together!

[@premiumpremium5095]

What is the size of the shaft seals without the shaft sleeves? Thanks :)

[@earlyhemibill]

Am watching your video to help with my project. It's my first time dealing with a blower. Put oil in the tank and it leaked out right away. Pulled it apart and when pulling the gears, a bunch of the shims dropped out. Don't know which side they go on. How can I fix that? Thanks in advance, Bill

[@MakerCave]

Bill: Choose a side at random and re-install all of the shims on that side behind the drive gear. Then start watching the video at this spot: kzbin.info/www/bejne/il7PdHSeet6Nmrc and go through the rotor timing step. If you have the shims on the wrong side the measurements will be WAY off, and you will know to switch the shims to the other side. You may have to get a shim pack and slightly change what you already have, but usually the stock Detroit Diesel shims at least get you close. Good luck with your build!

[@TimothySherrill]

Where can I find blower specifications like the ones I see you have? Is there a website to find them? Thanks

[@kingoftheplanet392]

Can you tell me what the case numbers are on that large bore case

[@naqashabbasi6345]

Sir please tell me detail 2 lops timings sittings please

[@Palanza]

Hello, recently discovered this video while trying to rebuild my own whipple supercharger. Do you have any suggestions on how to determine how much rotor timing/clearance I should have? Factory won't get back to me with this information. My whipple S/C has a ring gear on the one rotor with 6 bolts that can be loosened so you can adjust the clearance without removing the entire hub. My current thought process was with a dial indicator mounted to the hub to just put it in the middle of the clearance, is it this simple or are there specific tolerances? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[@garyrussell8003]

On my shaft seals (front bearing plate) one side is flat and the other has a recessed lip. What direction does the seal go? Your video appears to show the flat side faces the rotor. ??

[@dennisdavis8546]

Eaton has no manuals for this, guess they viewed it as a throw away after bearings and or seals wear out

[@chuckdigregorio8739]

Wow that’s a fantastic video. Any chance you want to rebuild a 6-71 Bowers Blower that’s similar to yours?

[@MakerCave]

Thanks for watching, Chuck. Unfortunately I do have a full time corporate job that keeps me too busy to do hobby work for hire. However, check with Dyers Blowers out of Chicago. They do excellent work, and can get you taken care of.

[@jammy46235]

I’m going to try and rebuild one of my blowers that the shaft broke on I’ve tried finding new lobes online but I’m having trouble finding a place that sells them would you have website that you know of where I can look thanks and great video

[@MakerCave]

Excellent. If your case is very good, then save it. Call Dyers Blowers in Chicago (Summit) Illinois at 708-496-8100. www.dyersblowers.com They should be able to fix you up with a new rotor, or rotors if both of your rotors were damaged when the stub shaft broke. They will want to know if you have a "Large Bore" 6-71 or a "Small Bore" blower. Tape measure the diameter of one rotor cavity in the case, from top to bottom. If I remember right, a small bore case is 5 1/2" and a large bore is 5 3/4" when checked with a tape measure. Good luck getting your blower together, and post back here if you can, to let everyone know how it works out!

[@jammy46235]

@@MakerCave awesome thank you and I will definitely let you know it should be interesting and a challenge to do and yes I believe the case is good I’m sure I’ll have to do some rust removal on it it’s been sitting for a couple of years will know more once I dismantle it still worth a shot lol especially when a new one is over 4,000 👍

[@claudiogrossi1528]

Hello, how are you, very good and well explained videos, I ask you a question, what code do the bearings on the front and back plates have? Thank you!!

[@sophiagoucher3087]

Awesome work! I really like all the tools you made for this job. would you be interested in doing a blower for me if I shipped it to you? It is actually a 471 that I am putting on a flathead ford in a 32 roadster

[@MakerCave]

Unfortunately, the demands of my Corporate job don't allow me to take in outside work. However, the guys at Dyers Blowers in Chicago IL have been very helpful to me in the past. They are one of the best professional blower builders out there and you could send your unit into them for rebuild. You can call them at 708-496-8100. Their website is www.dyersblowers.com. Thanks for watching!

[@sophiagoucher3087]

@@MakerCave Thanks, And your right about Dyers. I know Bill Dyer, He has Done some 671s for me in the past and I have bought a few units from him and sold him some cores before they started casting there own complete units. The thing that impressed me about your video was your attention to perfection. I have not messed with blowers in about 9 years, As Going Fast just isn't what it once was for me anymore. I have been playing with flathead fords and am looking to get 275HP out of one. Not gonna beat any mustangs on the street, But it will be cool as hell...I picked this 471 up on craigslist off a dozer for $100 and will probably just send it to Bill and have him convert it for me. Thanks for the reply and again good job on the build and tools you made to do it.

[@MakerCave]

@@sophiagoucher3087 Thanks! I absolutely love the look of a flattie with an old ScOT or Jimmy 4-71 on them, especially the ones that use the multi V-belt drives, like they did in the early 50's. I bet that yours turns out awesome!

[@aboodalhbarneh]

I have blower Gordon Denver ti408 can u rebuilt for me and how much. What’s your Location .?

[@magster65]

Great series, I watched them all! My (6-71) blower front cover came with a manual pressure relief valve and a sight glass (not installed and no instructions). Is there a specific location for those? Thanks for posting.

[@MakerCave]

It's hard to describe in text, "keep the oil level a little above the bottom screw in the triangle cover" so just look at this very nice video from The Blower Shop. They show it visually which is easier to understand. The vent can go high up on the front cover, well above the oil level. You can also see that in their video. Thanks! kzbin.info/www/bejne/pl7afoesa72qiMk

[@magster65]

@@MakerCave ok I'll check it out. Thanks for the reply!

[@johnhartley5071]

I missed the end of this video before apparently... Will that carb adapter allow 2 Holley double pumpers to fit without turning them sideways? It sure as hell looks like it would.

[@MakerCave]

Double Pumpers (4150 style) with rear metering blocks will not fit on this custom plate. I spaced the centerlines of the carbs so that only a 4160 series carb with NO rear metering block will just fit, in only an inline configuration. I think that there is enough real estate to spread the spacing a little bit to fit a 4150 on this type of plate, and really all I would have to do is move things around in my 3D model which would only take about 5 minutes, and re-generate the G-code, to make a new variant of the plate. Thanks!

[@raymorrison919]

great video and explanation but i noticed you didn't remove the bearing seals. they looked like the metal shields

[@MakerCave]

I did this project about two years ago, but I do recall the front bearings being open enough to be able to get gear lube from the gear case. On the rear bearings, some builders strip one seal and pack with additional grease, but I asked one of the guys at Dyers Blowers many years ago, and he said that they leave the seals intact and stay with the grease that is packed into the bearing from the factory. I did another blower like that 25 years ago, and it is still running fine on an old street rod all these years later, so the grease has held up for a long time now. Thanks for watching!

[@raymorrison919]

@@MakerCave cheers for the reply, i have 2 671 superchargers i will be setting up for chev engines do you know what the difference is between the housing with the 3 flush bars on the inlet side and the housing with the center bar flush and the two other bars about 3/16" below the surface

[@MakerCave]

@@raymorrison919 Excellent projects you got going, Ray. The rounded inlet ribs are usually on Small Bore 6-71's and the flat machined ribs are on Large Bore 6-71's built up until the early 70's. I have heard that there are some blowers around the changeover time that are exceptions, but every 6-71 that I have handled over the years has been like this. I found this listing of bore diameters and displacements over on Offshoreonly.com and they seem to line up with what I recall from measurements I have taken in the past: 6:71 small diameter Rotor dia=5.505", length=14.975", displacement per full turn of rotor=339CI. 6:71 big diameter Rotor dia=5.778", length=14.975", displacement per full turn of rotor=411CI. Good luck with your rebuilds!

[@raymorrison919]

@@MakerCave once again cheers for the reply. i think i will use the big diameter on the boat and the small diameter on the show car

[@jeffdiamond3900]

on using detroit blowers , do the gears need be upgraded or just reclearanced? does the rear housing have to be after market? before i even start attempting a rebuild is there a parts list i need to start out with? love your videos, keep up the good work.

[@MakerCave]

Stock gears are just fine for a street blower. It is best to use an aftermarket rear bearing plate. If you are going to go through the time to set clearances, best to do it with a good plate. You can purchase rebuild parts from www.dyersblowers.com. Thanks for watching!

[@mackohernandez9573]

the blower is pretty clean, how do you clean those gunk built up inside the housing and the lobe?

[@MakerCave]

The diesel fuel/oil residue actually washes off very easy in an automotive parts washer. You could probably also use simple green, but I used regular petroleum based parts washer fluid in my parts washer.

[@mackohernandez9573]

thank you sir.

[@CilantroMegaCorp]

Would love to see what engine you’ve placed this on? How did you go about fitting the belts etc?

[@MakerCave]

Sorry about the letdown on not carrying this all the way through to implementation. Had some substantial interruptions that put this project on the back burner for a couple more years. Although the scope of the rebuild video series was just to show the conversion process, I did intend to wrap up the project showing it installed on the running large journal 327 chevy that is waiting for it. Hoping to still get to that once the other demands are clear.

[@dottielaverty9114]

Are the deep scratches I see inside the blower case anything to get worried about Or ?????

[@MakerCave]

The scratches in my blower case look a lot worse on camera than they really are. However, if this was a race blower, as opposed to a low boost street blower, then a brand new case with no scratches would be best.

[@WorstPaperCut]

would this fit in a miata :))))))))))))

[@dennisdavis8546]

Have Ben searching for a month now, the shops that do it, are holding the knowledge, to fill their wallets.

[@dennisdavis8546]

Why can’t someone do a video just like this for a TRD 3.4 Litre Suprcharger, or rather just an Eaton M62 supercharger rotor pack FRONT baring /seal change and assemble

[@jocrp6]

Need to scrap that ole Indian head sch lack and use a nice anaerobic sealer for case's,, just my 2 cent's ;-)

[@garretthoward13]

For the average guy like myself machining a blower rebuild kit isnt an option.