Making a 1920's Silk Slip // Patterning and Sewing a Slip

Of course I needed a dark navy 1920's slip to wear under my new blue lace dress, so here is how I made one using the same 1920's pattern I made for the dress, with a few modifications of course! Again another project that is much easier to make if one chooses a friendlier fabric...unlike me!
The silk I used : www.moodfabric...
The silk I should have used perhaps : www.moodfabric...
These shoes are from American Duchess btw!
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!

[@DarkRavnMorgan]

With a light silk like that you can starch it before you work with it to help. Also get a large piece of felt for you cutting table to use with slippery fabrics. It keeps everything in place.

[@alexismontez4230]

When I'm working with lightweight fabrics like acetate and linings, the main thing I do to avoid puckered seams is to NOT backstitch at the end of each seam. Then I can "ungather" the fabric before tying the ends off and ironing.

[@gothempress]

I love your little giggle as you explain your shortcuts or when you make a quip. Very informative video. Good work, as usual, Bianca! - Darcie

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Darcie!

[@mimzyriepensell1423]

MacGyvered, LOL I thought I was the only one that did that.....with just about everything I do.....not just my sewing.....Love this, thanks so much

[@bettyvargas3138]

Thank for the heads up on the thin silk. Yet, another great outfit. Love them.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Betty!

[@barbiedesoto7054]

The slip looks pretty comfy! I love the layering. Very Phryne!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Barbie!

[@janisi9262]

As much of a beast as the fabric was, the slip does its job admirably! And hey, we all grow from our mistakes. From my research and knowledge of sewing and materials, I *think* a woven rayon would make a nice slip. It's usually a little heavier than China silk and shouldn't be quite as much a beast to work with. It has a cooler 'feel' than silk and should be better for warm weather, and costs less. This is the info on which I'm basing my fabric choices, anyway! (HUGE caveat, though: I'm almost entirely self-taught when it comes to sewing and though I do ok, consult someone who actually knows what they're doing, like Bianca, here.)

[@guineverecassidy4855]

China Silk... I'm so sorry... Yes, you have to be in a total zen state of mind to conquer that little lovely. It does though, feel lovely on the skin. Brava!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Guinevere!

[@peggyriordan9857]

I loved that slip! I think you did really well with such a difficult fabric. You might want to try Dharma Trading Company online for less expensive silk. Moods is very high priced. You can get a heavier weight silk at Dharma as well. I have used it and it's much easier to work with than the China Silk. Dharma has a charmuse silk that is shiny on one side and matte on the other which I use often. It's really nice and nicely priced, good weight too. I think the whole outfit looked great. Congrats!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Peggy! I'll definitely have to check out that silk then, as I think I may be needing to make some more slips later in the year, and heavier weight silk for a good price would be lovely!

[@marcco44]

Bianca you got me hooked on your channel, i check in every week to see what you're up to! you're creative, stylish, entertaining, and a great model AND photographer! makes me want to be more creative and artistic in my own life

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@smconner1956]

That turned out well! It's such a cute outfit. I usually cut out on my bed since I'm old and have trouble getting up and down. I'm more careful about that now since I snipped a hole in a good sheet. Ay yi yi! I'm anxious to see what you do next.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Susan!

[@sharonrussell7933]

I do too Susan. I cringe when I see these youngsters cutting patterns on the floor.

[@craftynekoLM]

Those slippery fabrics always intimidate me. It’s always nice to watch someone else fiddle with them so I can desensitize myself from avoiding them, lol. Thanks for making this slip Bianca. Would you consider making another video about making slips from another decade? Or just other foundation garments?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I don't make a lot of foundation garments in general, but if I can work out a mid-century slip pattern I can do a video on that for sure!

[@els1f]

These videos are so interesting! I've yet to dare to make anything from scratch, and I love watching the process ✌️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@dawnbuxton8204]

Finally caught up on your videos! Love watching and listening. You’re very talented and informative. Keep doing what you’re doing!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Dawn!

[@jeanettefamulari3538]

I realize that this is a slip, but it looks lovely on you. It would be cute in a light cotton for the summer.

[@leslieinadress]

I’m loving the short fringe! Oh and the tutorial too.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Leslie!

[@kareljennings]

Thank you so much for making the navy lace dress and the slip. I am still playing with ideas for my son's wedding. I plan to make mock-ups of the dress and slip (although I can't use lace). I plan to try silk shantung if the trial works out, with a heavier silk slip, since shantung tends to ride up on me. I haven't yet figured out how to make it floor length. I also need to figure out how to make it long-sleeved; if I can, I'm thinking of trying it in bronze velvet, which would need no slip. I'm so glad someone else is a haphazard sewer...and, just for the record, many centuries ago, when I took home-ec and learned to sew, I was taught to sew over pins. Haven't broken the habit yet!

[@juddiehare4096]

LOVE, LOVE,LOVE!!! I used to stress SO much!! I am a larger lady and would love to make my own items, but scaling up a pattern fills me with dread as most stop at a UK size18ish. Do you know of any companies that make patterns for larger ladies that l can purchase online? Your tutorials have helped me to be a more confident sewer, you've shown your mistakes and how you've corrected them, explained why you've done things in a certain way, you are an amazing teacher. l'm building up the courage to tackle making my own block pattern! I know l wouldn't ever have thought of making my own block pattern if it wasn't for you, so Thankyou for your time making these videos it really is appreciated!!!!! ❤

[@belezia4]

Maybe: ‘sewdirect.com’

[@juddiehare4096]

@@belezia4 Thank you so much for answering my query, l will definately try sewdirect.com xox

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Juddie! I'm afraid when it comes to sourcing commercial patterns of any size I am just not knowledgeable unfortunately, since I stopped buying patterns around a decade ago now. The good news is there are quite a few sewing blogs out there that may be able to help with pattern reviews, or even just general advice, a site called the Curvy Sewing Collective seems to have a list of pattern companies here curvysewingcollective.com/resources/plus-size-patterns/ which may be of use too!

[@ljtilmon]

It's OK. We all have certain words we have trouble with. Your a fast speaker, so that may be your reason for not being able to say CAH-LOOM-NAHR. We all knew what you were trying to say, though😊. Try saying the word a little slower for a while. Thank you for your helpful videos. You are indeed a blessing.🥰🤗

[@Iarasilv]

Loved it! What I was looking for! Thank you Bianca! Keep up the good work!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Iara!

[@Calgary27]

Great job, I do love this outfit with both slip and over lace dress I loved learning about your process. Excellent tutorial ❤️🇨🇦❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Laurie!

[@amytuite7449]

Yesssss. I really need new slips. But first I need to redo my blocks. WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I need to make a 1940's slip pattern soon here, as I don't have one. I have to make a "blocks from scratch" video soon and WAAAA is about my general feeling on that too actually, because it's gonna be so hard to explain all the wild geometry without getting even myself confused eek!

[@amytuite7449]

@@TheClosetHistorian yes! I need to get a buddy to measure me. Last time I measured myself and it was a very odd shaped block.

[@evelynhearnsberger660]

Another enjoyable video. You amaze me! I do not sew and yet I look forward to watching you sew. You make the process easy to follow and very interesting. The dress and slip are beautiful!🤗💕

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Evelyn!

[@debra333]

So beautiful...I don't see the flaws. 🤗

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Debra!

[@LinniAngel]

Yay!!! I've been waiting for this ever since you uploaded the video of the blue lace dress, and as usual you have made another fantastic garment!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@deanalovessewn6117]

Hi Bianca!! Excellent vlog.. Shortcuts & flaws never saw any of it.. When sewing, I’m bad for taking shortcuts too.... 💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵

[@paulinedunham9806]

Loved it ❤

[@nessatm6304]

What's your current haircare routine? You hair looks very healthy and has alot of shine.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Though I'm afraid I don't really do anything special to it! I use Carol's Daughter black vanilla shampoo, conditioner, and their leave in conditioner spray when I get out of the shower, but that's it!

[@nessatm6304]

Thank you so much! 🤍

[@maroulio2067]

I enjoyed watching this- you did so well with the silk from hell.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Maroulio!

[@marciahighsmith4820]

Lovely outfit. You did a good job.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Marcia!

[@peggydid]

Very nice outfit! You did well!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Peggy!

[@VickyDIncecco]

Yaaaassss!! You read my mind! ♥️

[@lisabarrios8235]

Thanks for the tutorial, CH., By the way that slip would make a cute sundress, if you just pick a colorful fabric. It looks comfortable. Did you make the little pressing pillow? If you did, can you show us how its made? You are awesome!

[@ravensnestacres7218]

Search for tailors ham tutorial there are a few that’s where I found mine and it was super easy.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lisa! As others have said the little pillow thing is a tailors ham, I bought mine at a fabric shop. They are quite "hard" compared to a pillow pillow, and I think they are filled with sawdust maybe? I don't actually know!

[@lisabarrios8235]

, thank you, I found a few DIY's on how to make one. Im ready to sew my " one hour dress" from your tutorial. Thanx again

[@TheMMFamily9]

If your ever in NYC I'll take you away from those high priced tourist traps, you can save so much on the same thing...really, get in touch with me, we can meet for lunch then shopping😊

[@armedvsokord]

I find that purchasing silk online can be so hit or miss. It's totally not your fault that the silk was such a pain. If you had seen it in person you probably wouldn't have purchased it.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

They said it was lightweight, but goodness... ;)

[@zigazigazzz]

I have a little stash of this same fabric intending to make lingerie. Thanks for the heads up about working with it, since I haven’t started yet.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I already bought more before I knew how rude it can be to make a 40's slip and now I am scared!

[@kallandar13]

Call- um-nar, I think.

[@jessicacroteau5600]

Use charmeuse!! It's also a nightmare to work with but a heavy satin won't drape the way you need it to

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I was thinking more like a crepe back satin as opposed to a structured one, I have a slip in plum crepe back satin and it is thicker but still very flowy. I have my eye on the crepe de chine at Mood for next time!

[@jessicacroteau5600]

@@TheClosetHistorian Ooooh the crepe de chine would be nice too

[@whbrown1862]

You are amazing...

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@queenofheartslandofjoy8068]

Great slip. Looks so slippery. Why do you draw a line through your design women's head? Just curious.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I had literally never thought about this until so many people have started asking here online! Many fashion designers simply draw a line or quick swipe of the pen like this instead of drawing faces, and at some point during fashion school I started to do so to. It is a time saver quick thing, where the swipe indicates just a vague eye line. I think it is just a common thing those who do a lot of fashion sketching end up doing. I know Monique Lhuillier for example does the same thing, just off the top of my head. It's just part of my sketching style, and a quirk I had never considered until people started asking about it!

[@sharonrussell7933]

@@TheClosetHistorian Have been wondering this as well. Curious minds see everything. I thought maybe it was like that mysterious cross bar through the number 7. Thanks for the heads up. From here on out I will draw the head swish instead of facial features and say it's because B said I could. Always....love your stuff.

[@gabrielabianchi1809]

Weird tip here, but have you ever tried the non sticky paper that comes with contact paper for patterns? I use it a lot, because I like to protect my books, and noticed that it might come in handy for sewing too.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I have never used contact paper so I haven't encountered it I'm afraid, but I love alphanumeric paper after being spoiled with it in university and it's not very expensive so I continue to use it! Sounds like you've found a great recycling use for the backing paper though!

[@calendulaofficinalis7303]

Thank you for another fun video! I've actually bought a piece of quite thin silk last year and I'm still afraid to touch it... Maybe I will build up some courage this spring. Btw every time I try to iron silk it gets static like crazy. Is there any way to deal with it?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I'm afraid I am not aware how to stop all the static with silk unfortunately!

[@calendulaofficinalis7303]

@@TheClosetHistorian Eh, so the struggle continues :) But it's getting cold again, so for now I will just go back to my flannel.

[@ravensnestacres7218]

Silk is evil but this turned out great.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Elaine!

[@terrortara6994]

❤️

[@robbiecrafter]

Do you have a single hole (versus slot shaped) throat plate (I think that's the name for it) for your sewing machine? They help a lot when sewing fine fabric like this. I need one 'cause my machine loves to eat slinky stuff. Just curious, what kind of thread did you use? Silk or poly?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

To be honest, I have no idea which kind of plate I've got! I also need to get this machine tuned up or a new one though too eek... I totally just used plain old dual duty Coats & Clark poly thread, I wish I had silk, now that is couture level attention to detail! If I took some time to make a truly nice slip, with the same kind of love and attention I give some outer garments, maybe I'd spring for some, but I'm bad and always rush underlayers and linings ;)

[@robbiecrafter]

@@TheClosetHistorian Since you are using zigzag stitches you are not using a hole shaped one. The hole is just a little larger than your needle and you can only do straight stitches. When you get your new machine, give a thought to getting one. It's an accessory. No machine comes with one...except for vintage Singer Featherweights. Usually they are not expensive, at all. I was just curious about the thread. I have never ever used silk thread. I'm a poly sewer, too.

[@nevem5010]

💖

[@frazzledhaloz3184]

Great job! Lol

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@jenniferw1570]

Hi Bianca, this is a little off topic but I just found a poshmark closet that has a lot of vintage jewelry, thought you might like...it's @tbulver. She's got Coro, Trifari many others, dress and shoe clips, etc...

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thanks Chloe! I'm afraid I've never used/shopped Poshmark so I wouldn't even know how to get there I'm afraid!

[@jonnipratt312]

Hello I have a couple of straw purses, but the insides are no good is it ok to redo them?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I would say you totally should! Give them a new life

[@jonnipratt312]

@@TheClosetHistorian Thank you I Love them so much, I get so much entertainment from watching you!

[@AdirondackRuby]

Question: Is there a reason you left the straps for last instead of putting them on sandwiched between the slip and bias binding for a "cleaner" finish? I'm guessing it was to prevent warping of the neckline while manipulating the fabric, but just curious what your thought process was.

[@petapendlebury9024]

My thoughts too! That fabric looks like a slippery little.....🤪 I have a beautiful cotton backed silk for a slip and hopefully it will behave a little sedately ❤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Oh I had never even thought to do it that way! It would indeed be much prettier inside that way, but finishing the top edge of the thing in bias was already my plan B I suppose. I never make things with straps, so I don't have a general system for them really!

[@AdirondackRuby]

@@TheClosetHistorian It came out really well, considering what you were up against. Naughty, tricky fabric!

[@cocoamourrr]

Could you make this as a camisole ?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Certainly, just only make the pattern as long as you need/want!