Making a Batty Back Blazer // Mandragora Suit Jacket Mockup

A very wearable mockup for an upcoming jacket in silk taffeta! Today I'm making a black jacket with bat wings down the spine, a short stand collar, and a fun flared hem.
This fabric from Mood: www.moodfabric...
The shoulder pads from Mood: www.moodfabric...
The original Mandragora costuming projects: • An 1890's Skirt in Sil...
A-line skirt video: • How to Make an A-Line ...
Bound buttonholes with Laura Mae : www.britexfabr...
www.lauramaedes...
Cicada gown day bodice: • Making a Gothic Victor...
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Thank you Patrons!
Need to make a block pattern? There are many options, and I talk about several in this playlist! : • Making a Bodice Block ...
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.3dca... (not sponsored)
More from me?
Want to help me continue making more videos? Listen to me ramble on in a monthly podcast? Watch an additional project video each month? Peruse my Patreon here: / theclosethistorian
Blog: theclosethistor...
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Beauty Channel: / thehistoriansvanity
But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!

[@breawilldraw]

GIRL!!! With the hair!!! And the bats!! And the detailing and ugh I can’t even handle how perfect this is

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Breanna!

[@ZitaAnneReno]

I will always be impressed by your creativity and the way you bring that femme fatale gothic aesthetic to life! This suit is just ✨🦇vibes🦇✨

[@waterbitten]

Gothic femme fatale is the perfect description of Biancas aesthetic.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you ZitaAnne! 🦇🖤

[@Maellen]

Omg! How dare you make one of my holy grail pieces?! I'm absolutely going to copy cat this. I simply adore your work, you beautiful woman!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Maellen! 🦇 Copy away!! 🧵

[@believeinfaeries8713]

I love how you translated the Victorian bodice into a very goth/noir/vintage style. Beautifully done! Can’t wait to see the “real” one with the silk.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Flynn!

[@susanpilling8849]

Beautiful!👏👏 You've inspired this old lady to go back to the unfinished sloper project I've been putting off all summer. Your tutorial from 12 months ago really helped. You really brought a smile in a gloomy time, thank you.

[@bronteatkinson4001]

Hi Susan I have just gone back and re tested my blocks and am trying my first design in ages…need to trust the block…no muslin (mock up). Worth the time to get the fit right, hope it goes well.

[@39houndsteps]

Yes! I too have been recently inspired by Bianca to revisit my old bodice block and refit it! I also turned it into an additional princess seam block. Very proud of myself. Watching these videos make me realise what can be done……and…..that it’s ok to fudge sometimes. 😂

[@pelican3223]

Me too - after 30 years of no pattern making - she did the same for me- however there is a reason I don’t do my own patterns - they give me anxiety 😂 but maybe I will try again. 😊

[@bronteatkinson4001]

@@pelican3223 I too am anxious about cutting into fabric I love and want to wear but the last few days I have made two blouses straight from draft to fabric and they fitted! So excited by the freedom to add my own details and design elements! My stash is in danger of being used up because I am not limited by the yardage requirements, I can design something to fit the yardage. I now have a Pinterest board “Designs to Draft” and find myself deconstructing garments. It is all so liberating and fun! Go for it.

[@pelican3223]

@@bronteatkinson4001 wow that’s amazing- well done.

[@CharredFibers]

I gotta say I go back and look at your videos from years past and see how much your work has grown. I love to think how much my sewing has improved by watching your videos. I've been sewing with my mom since I was very young. Now that she's gone I have no one to learn from and ask questions. Thanks for being there for me and for all of us. 😊

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Janie ❤️❤️❤️

[@Neonatnoon]

It’s so dang cute! I love that knotting detail down the back. Beautifully done like always!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@kaytiej8311]

Its all completely clear to those of us who speak fluent Rambling Speak. You just do all this so well! Brilliant, as always.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kaytie!

[@maryartberry]

Yasssss this hits the spot. I'm currently working on a Regency-inspired modern jacket, but we're still in the planning phase. I also adore the idea of a wearable mockup.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Mary!

[@waterbitten]

This level of pattern drafting is above my skill level. However, It's positively opening to see how the jagged, odd shaped pattern pieces come together to make something structural and stunning.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@vivienkoles1880]

She is saying she is not good at tailoring yet... meanwhile I even messed up my pillowcase. :D I can't imagine how good the atelier's at big fashion houses are, if she thinks she isn't comparable... 😲

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I promise they are true magicians compared to me!!

[@kirstencoats4262]

Wow! That is a gorgeous jacket! Well done! Thank you for keeping in the footage of pinning and re-pinning until the seams line up correctly. Little details like that are often overlooked in the learning process, but they make all the difference in the finished result. 🦋

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kirsten!

[@armedvsokord]

Such a pretty mock up. This is going to be an amazing suit.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@MichelleSMV]

Love the extraness of this jacket! Bats are so adorable and this is just in time for Halloween too 🎃! (Also I’m thoroughly convinced to make my own sloped pattern now lol)

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Michelle! A sloper is the key to open all design doors 🤩

[@tenaoconnor7510]

A pin dish with Halloween bugs or bats. Or glow in the dark moons and stars ? Oh the ideas lol 😻😻😻 I love this. Iridescent bats would be cool also on a silver jacket. I wish i went places to wear this. Too fancy for Walmart 🤣

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Tena! Be fancy at walmart, I have often been fancy at the grocery store 😂

[@pennyplaysbach]

You sure worked hard!! The jacket reminded me of the black, Edwardian mourning bodice you found at the antique mall last summer. I'll never forget that Patreon post! I enjoy the "spread" of decorations in the background of your on-camera bits. You give us so many details to enjoy. It must take a while to get it all "just so" for the camera. Pat pat to emperor moth buddy on the wall!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Penny! I love my desk area so much ❤️✨ Forever a maximalist 🤣

[@tiamatmichellehart6821]

I literally *just came up from my own patterning table pinning/cutting my 1911 hobble skirt* to find you had released a new offering and it is *ELEGANT!* I'm so glad you chose to wear it with a skirt; far from the masculine jacket creating a *Punch* -worthy farce, fitted to the feminine form it can be incredibly ladylike!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@dragonflycreations4024]

(cackling in SW nerd for "It's like poetry, it rhymes") And absolutely stunning, all those details are 😍

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! 🖤✨

[@catherinedavis1690]

If someone has attempted bound buttonholes you make perfect sense, no worries. Bound buttonholes are definitely not a beginners event lol I sew very much like you do. I do need to take a pattern making course. Even though I’ve been a seamstress for 45 years the pattern adjusting and making is self taught from taking garments apart for my mom when I was 8-10 yrs old and using thrift store clothes taken apart as fabric for clothes for me all through high school. I really appreciate your talents and love watching your videos no matter how long! Halloween is my favorite holiday and Fall my favorite season too!! Glue a couple of small magnets to the bottom of your pin dish and you have what ever pin dish you’d like magnetized. Just make sure they aren’t too strong or you will be having a tug of war with them lol.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Catherine!

[@karenharris2298]

Love the jacket. It is simply beautiful. It is also unusual, a conversation piece

[@valeriekhall]

I **LOVE** the spine detailing! I also love that since on this particular jacket, all of the spine detailing is made of fabric, one could wear it quite comfortably & still retain the ability to lean back in a chair, ride/drive in a car, or wear ones hair down without requiring rescue. So cleverly done!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Valerie!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Karen!

[@Timetravel1111]

Iridescent in nature is very beautiful, first time I saw a Beetle 🪲with gold and strong Metallics I was very shocked. It’s amazing like a dragonfly and colors within hummingbirds.

[@Voirreydirector]

Oh well done! How perfect! You are such a treasure, dear.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Susan!

[@olliejones3302]

Life is too short for worrying about if something is too costumes-y! 🖤

[@gittevandevelde2208]

Idea for the less-goth but equally fantastical and insecty loving people out there: butterflies!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Indeed! Or doves, raven wings? Blue sparrows! The original just had bow-ish shapes!

[@catherinerw1]

We like listening to you working your ideas out! I'm tacking my first ever tailored jacket, which had very specific instructions what internal construction materials to get. This included iron-on woven cotton interfacing, which is a revelation! (I usually work with things which take a hot iron, so am well acquainted with melting regular fusible interfacing when I forget to use a pressing cloth). It's the Barberry jacket, which is drafted with lots of hip-spring, 1950s style 🙂

[@lizmarin9568]

You have such exquisite attention to detail, this is just a mockup 😮! Can't wait to see the final product!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Liz! It was a mock up I knew would at least fit, so I figured I'd lean in 🖤🦇

[@waterbitten]

You've put so much effort into this blazer, I forgot it was a mockup.. my mockup ups almost never looked were this put together..

[@Susanfuzz]

The jacket is lovely and promises even more in the silk edition… BUT … your hair is ON POINT today! 🖤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Susan!

[@dottiemathews6853]

BIANCA GURL YOU ARE SITTING PERFECT IN THIS VIDEO! THE SERPANT LOOKS LIKE IT'S COMING OUT OF YOUR HAIR! BUT THE IMAGERY LOOKS FAB! YOU KNOW HOW TO WORK IT! I LOVE YOUR FABULOUS VICTORIAN GOTH STYLE! DO THAT THING GURL!!!!

[@marief9858]

🤣I considered taking a shot everytime you said 'Lip'/s'!! 🤣 I understood it though, good video thanks!

[@VeretenoVids]

🤩 I have never had problem with sleeves either. I'm more prone to messing up the "easy" parts of a garment, generally do to a moment of inattention. I would love a video on lining! I've done it a few times, but I've never been satisfied with how it turned out.

[@esmarzo2]

Another beautiful creation! I love watching your videos, they feel so warm and are super interesting... ❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@silvergypsylady]

Absolutely gorgeous jacket. I love it. Had a thought while watching the bat decorations for the back. Maybe add a layer of silk organza to the top so they stand out a little more. I noticed how it shimmered when you made the bound buttonholes. Can’t wait to see the next installment in this series.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! The silk organza is actually quite matte compared to how sparkly polyester organza can be, and the shantung is probably shinier anyhow 😅✨

[@Puckty]

this video couldn't have come at a better time, I have this weird optical illusion 3d looking fabric and this is exactly the kind of jacket I wanted to make from it, just to up the weird factor but using a wacky fabric with a more classic style jacket. I love the little bats on the back, it might not be for the jacket I'm making now but it sure looks like something that could come in handy on another future project cause they're just too cute

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Love some weird fabric!

[@pinupgirl72]

This is absolutely perfect in every way. The mood you have captured is perfect. The finished product is breath taking and show stoping. You always impress me. 💞🖤💞🖤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!! 🦇

[@Puppy52]

Thanks for sharing how you did the bound buttonholes!

[@edwardgurney1694]

"Oohh, bound buttonholes? My machine doesn't do buttonholes and buttonhole stitching by hand is a pain, maybe I will try this." Watches Bianca do them "Ok fuck that."

[@TheClosetHistorian]

🤣 Correct honestly...I only do it on special stuff 😅✨

[@znycelondon5313]

Awesome. The bats on the back……really are the focal point….. This would be a project I could make…..and wear🥰

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@lorenholmes1978]

15 seconds in and i cant go any further without saying how good your hair is!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank your Loren!

[@jasonmack2569]

Fall and The ClosetHistorian! "It's the most wonderful time of year."

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Correct ✨🦇🍂

[@angelanice]

I also do super well setting in sleeves and I've mostly used commercial patterns. I don't understand what the struggle with sleeves is either 🤷

[@joandreyer2377]

I learned garment construction by reading the instruction sheets. There were a few steps that assumed I knew what I was doing.. not so much. Notice that she uses lots of pins and creates the ease in the arms scythe so that there aren’t little folds and ripples. I use 2 rows of basting to ease a sleeve into the arm hole area. Then lots of pins and sew carefully. Yes, a sister struggler needs to do a video on setting sleeves.

[@asilverfoxintasmania9940]

Oh this is a gorgeous wearable muslin. Those bats are so cute as is the peplum. I have to say your hair is very Cruella inspired at present!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@nataliechim5227]

The way you sew the appliques is such a great technique. Love the jacket, can't wait to see the silk version

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Natalie!

[@mcomeslast]

Lynda Maynard has tailoring 1 starting soon. I just finished 3 last night and am sewing the sleeve linings now. Her tailoring classes are traditional hand tailoring. She has a separate class on a ready to wear jacket for folks that want a machined jacket. It’s zoom and worked great.

[@alexandraleigh]

That Jacket and Your Hairstyle are Excellent !!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Alexandra!

[@therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

This was the mock up???? This is so great and your hair!!! 🥰

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@susansmith8602]

Stunning topaz jewels, Bianca!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Susan!

[@hypnoticfig6085]

im crazy, im naughty, im wild, i cannot be stopped, i never use notches! 😈😈😈

[@lmh4186]

Wowwwwww. I loved this. I am inspired to try this design for an upcoming wedding. Thank you for a fabulous tutorial

[@halfgoddess_halfhell]

Laying here with my pink hair dye marinating in awe of your creativity, as usual. Never a disappointment watching your projects!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Karinda! I really need to do my blond bits roots 😬😅

[@dottiemathews6853]

*CLAPPING HANDS*

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I think I love everything you do

[@annh.8290]

Wonderful.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Ann!

[@cindypeterson1629]

I think I just fainted !! that jacket is so awesome!!! I cannot wait for the rest

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Cindy!

[@ljshaw8516]

I am just BATTY over this Mandragora Suit Jacket! Yes, magical and just perfect for you. 🦇🦇🦇

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I'm so excited to wear it soon!

[@kristinabathory8870]

Is anyone else listening going, "Ah, yes, Princess Leia Organza"? Welcome to the Dark Side where we wear Brassieres! (Yes, I know it's really Organa.)

[@cisakubley757]

The drafting is giving me such relateable chaotic good energy and I'm loving it. My drafting is pretty much just the same

[@daseineschaf]

It's been cold and rainy for the last two weeks so I'm yearning for that autumn content! More spook! (Also that hairstyle looks amazing!)

[@kobaltkween]

If you ever do any kind of collaborations, I think you and Rachel Maksy have overlapping aesthetic interests, even if you have very different processes.

[@blktauna]

Looks amazing on you. Very clever and cool design!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@angelsavidge4605]

I love your videos and style. One wish list thing would be if you could create videos (edit from ones you already have) that capture the details and audio slower for things like collars, pleating, facing, zippers, different necklines and make different playlists for them. I get making them over and over you must be bored w/ explaining stuff so it would be good to have those shorter videos for detail around the more complicated things that goes a little slower. I am building muscle memory by watching your videos :) . Thank you for all you do!

[@conniearancivia7599]

Amazing as usual. Absolutely love the jacket and ,by the way, the way you made those bound button holes is so much easier than the way I was taught so many years ago.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Connie!

[@janparker6724]

This looks like a late 1940's mensware inspired silhouette etsy has a lot of 1940's pattern drafting patterns, and I use wild ginger boutique pattern making software to make it fit to my exact measurements. I would say that this falls 1945 ish, right before the curved rounded suits of the after war french fashions. The gothic twist is fun.

[@sarahduffy6964]

You would enjoy storming the fashion/costume section of a museum in your fanciest dresses. When museums have a free late night event it's always a good idea to over-dress for the occasion and storm the castle armed in your best clothes. This works best with 5-10 people for full effect.

[@amandasackman7723]

I won't say stop worrying, I'll say stop being vocal about worrying lol! You make complete sense when explaining something, it's when you start talking about not making sense or rephraseing something you just explained because you think it didn't make sense the first time, is when you start to get a little confusing. But I would watch your videos either way so you do you.

[@cypriennezed5640]

You made your own sleeve board? We can make our own sleeve boards?! /immediately changes weekend plans/

[@jolynnwhite7946]

I’m from the generation I was in high school in the 60s the end of the 60s and they had us make our samples of all of the sewing attributions liquor different band button holes in our different layers of stitching and actually back at that time you could take your samples to a department store and get a job Taylor examples I went to Taylor and three in high school it is a wonderful course of study it you never forget it even if you and I’ve been in lifetime store so it’s maker however they say today but those skills are marketable today isn’t that wonderful how about you can’t just probably walking to’s Department store and get a employed as somebody who alters garments for people are but that used to be the way things were and I was from Berkeley CaliforniaWaiting high school class of 1969 and I appreciate your skill

[@karenalise7775]

I now watch your videos when i'm sewing anything, even my baby clothes, bc I always catch a gem. Will I try buttons? Not soon haha but I know where to go when i'm ready.

[@cherylstraub5970]

If you don't want your lining to show at the sleeve hem, you can make your sleeve's hem slightly longer and the lining slightly shorter, your lining won't show.

[@sewcute_sewvintage]

I was just saying today that I love your long videos! As for interfacing I would have recommended a tricot interfacing over the kind you used. It's really great for shaping and body. And I don't think you have an easy time with sleeves because you drafted them. I think it's because you are excellent at pattern drafting and a talented seamstress. I've seen lots of self drafted sleeves go very wrong! Including one I did for a coat

[@liddybird3608]

I used to say that Seattle had two seasons, spring and fall. Not so much with climate change anymore. But even in fall, colors of native trees are underwhelming or they're evergreens without any changes. Fortunately lots of people have been landscaping with imported ornamental trees that have pretty fall colors, so it's better nowadays.

[@Mysmichelle69]

I'm hoping for labels with TCH and cicada 👀 please do merch

[@vannahhall915]

speaking of merch - there is a potter in UT who makes magnetic pin dishes. Just a thought for your fruitful imagination! Ben Behunin, is a great artist.

[@josiahsun1092]

As someone who has five sewing machine, for no damn reason, I can tell you I am a monster. It's like Smaug with his gold, I just sit in a room and watch them. it's... it's become an unhealthy obsession.

[@elmmusicful]

"Batty Backed Blazer, makes it really alliterative, and thats fun!" stated so casually, but so true.

[@e_viola]

For sleeve problems, commercial patterns usually put too much ease in the sleeve cap. And too much ease in general throughout the pattern

[@maggie8324]

Thank you

[@rachelfloyd5865]

Great start! Love the purple color for the lining and the BATS! Oh loving it so much!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Rachel!

[@nixhixx]

PA has a GREAT fall, rivaling if not surpassing New England.

[@celtickitty6135]

I just found you a few months ago, I am catching up on past prooject. I love this jacket but I was a little disappointed that you did not show it open so we could get a flash of them beautiful lining.

[@dacrayzblaze1]

marathon sewing sounds like a dream to me right about now. damn you library school. sewing and listening to audiobooks is llike my dream right about now

[@quazylade90]

I don't understand everything because I am of at your level but I love it and would be very interested in reactions walking around my town.

[@dacrayzblaze1]

this is the most goth and most awesome thing. I think this is one of my favorite things you've made and I am high key obsessed with everything you make

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! 🦇🖤

[@scattygirl1]

25:30 I learned one particular difference between dressmaking and tailoring when I had a bridesmaid dress made for me. I was really unhappy with the fit from the dressmakers (it seemed too big) so I took it to a tailor and he said that it wasn't the fit, it was the lack of pressing. The dress was made from satin and the dressmaker said it couldn't be ironed without the seams showing through. The tailor said this wasn't true and that all it needed was the right equipment. He made very few alterations but correctly pressed it and the transformation was astonishing- it went from unsightly bulkiness to smooth and fitted.

[@PeacefulMaelstrom]

I ate dinner and painted my nails, that for the company, gorgeous jacket!

[@FlickiChicki]

My grandma taught me to sew over thin pins. I know it’s naughty, but it’s habit.

[@plushieangela]

I work in a laundry, you could always cold handwash this jacket then dry it laid flat on a towel in the shade. Possibly even tuck some hand towels under the pleats so they dry in the right shape

[@snookiedoo]

If you can wash it. I would because dry cleaning doesn't get the perspiration out and can in fact leave stains in the underarm area. Fantastic work as always 😍

[@ABLovescrafting]

Dear god your hair is awesome today!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@harpress]

A green beetle shaped pin dish, slightly opalescent finish, with a magnet in the base.... :3

[@ReisigSeeds]

Also, do you have a serging video where you teach us which parts of the fabric pieces need to be serged? I always screw that up.

[@jolynnwhite7946]

I only know on the Star Trek holiday you could have anything you want is that we need to look for the holiday and push a button and say what we want maybe yeah

[@jeannegreeneyes1319]

Le Sigh...💚💣💚...😍

[@ladyslippergrove]

I’m up to 6 sewing machines and they are addictive!

[@tanishahogan9396]

Somewhere where it is always Fall sounds perfect!

[@ToilAndStitch]

It is super pretty as it is, but I think it would be neat with the lining fabric for the button holes!

[@curlyclaire2]

Inhave never understood how to do bound buttonholes before and now I do. Thank you.

[@charliecat5686]

I would love for you to put together a book of your patterns and looks. I would so buy one!!

[@savannahbrewer6161]

Unpopular opinion: autumn is not a real season, but just an opening act for winter.

[@bearert]

Oooohhhh 😱 OMG!!! Flipping Brilliant!!! Beautiful! Amazing! 👏👏👏❤️❤️❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! 🦇