Making a filament runout sensor for Ender 3 v2 from a Z-stop

[@1am570yl3z]

I like how you start one video, then give info for something different and then go back to what the video is actually about 👍

[@notenoughtech]

Everyone loves a tangent :D

[@csar9097]

A simple, but elegant solution. I like it! Thank you for share!

[@notenoughtech]

Glad you like it!

[@tokin420nchokin]

Wow I have some videos to watch. I was gonna print out a filament sensor housing before slapping a microswiss on but now I feel like I need to watch your compiling video and compile my own setup. I'm currently running a pre compiled setup I found called jysers I believe.

[@notenoughtech]

It's worth learning to do it if you want to have your printer modified. This way you always have the firmware tailored to your need

[@tokin420nchokin]

Sorry for the delayed Like on your comment there. Here I am 2 years later finally getting around to making that filament sensor haha. I am printing with a roll of pla+ I bought at this time, somehow its printing beautifully.. not complaining just shocked. I did put the microswiss in there, a capricorn tube, auto bed leveler, hotter thermistor and heater cartridge, stiffer springs etc. It prints great though still. Probably nowhere near as fast as a current 3d printer but for how little I use it, I am thrilled.

[@Of_UnCommon_Sense]

Seems you are just the fellow to answer my question. I have and ender 5 with a run out sensor. I want to add a limit switch to the circuit to trigger on tangled filament. My question is do I simply interrupt a wire with a nc contact, I'm thinking the white wire, [red,black.wht] as the signal wire or do I parallel two of the wires with a no contact. Don't know the logic here?? Can you help me here?

[@notenoughtech]

I would copy the switch wiring and do it in parallel. Then you don't need to play with firmware. If either of them trigger your print will stop

[@Of_UnCommon_Sense]

@@notenoughtech Just to be sure I cut the wht wire. So it was not in play. so I put N.O. contact across the blk and red and now I have tangle switch working with filament run out.

[@GrumpyOlVetPrinting]

Good video. One thing you left out is to comment out the "#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z". If you don't disable that line, you won't be able to move the z into the negative values that you'll need to be able to do in order to set your z offset correctly.

[@notenoughtech]

You can set the offset without going to negative values. But you are right, it's a little more easier your way

[@phoryanryan6822]

Yes finally came out been waiting for this video!!!

[@notenoughtech]

My sincere apologies for the long wait. Should have been quicker. I should have complete Marlin guide up today too and probably hotend update by the end of this week. Work kept me up, leaving little time to play

[@phoryanryan6822]

@@notenoughtech No need to apologize everyone has there life!

[@notenoughtech]

@@phoryanryan6822 lately I feel I don't have it haha. I have holidays coming up next week so I'll catch up with everything :)

[@tubity844]

Yesssss love the vids 👍🏼

[@ujjwalkmenon]

I feel there is a mistake in wiring which one is correct the one you did or the one in the image see video stamp 2:18 and 2:52

[@notenoughtech]

Ignore the wire colours from video just follow the schematics. It also depends on your switch pinout. As long as you replicate that you are good. Diagram also in the associated article

[@proszek420]

Hey, thanks for the vid ! All 3 endstop microswithces are using only 2 pins. Are you sure we need 3 wires ? I plan to use current wire along with endstop switch after BLTouch installation. Thx

[@notenoughtech]

It depends on the switch and how it's resolved. Typically switch is using 2 wires. 3 wire configuration is to enable NO and NC (normally open/closed) which is used to pull the pin low or high. You don't want to leave this floating otherwise the sensor can trigger falsely.

[@TechnologistAtWork]

Why is it so hard to find an actual wiring diagram of those sensors?

[@notenoughtech]

It's one of those things the scientists don't want you to know.

[@kumsuk77777]

Is that a JST connector to the motherboard and if so which one? There are different sizes listed on ebay

[@notenoughtech]

I reused the one I had on my Z axis as it's also 3 pin.

[@laurenrector93]

2.54mm jst-xh

[@chrissarahhowells1844]

A link to the thingiverse file would be nice both for the creator and those following along

[@notenoughtech]

It's in the writeup

[@zero2583]

@@notenoughtech that link provides a 404 page saying nothings there

[@notenoughtech]

@@zero2583 looks like the author removed the account

[@ILEFTCAPS0N]

I might have screwed up. I'm using Jyers firmware and was able to flash the screen firmware just fine and I'm pretty sure the mainboard firmware was flashed successfully, and the sensor (formerly Z endstop) wired correctly, but when I have the sensor plugged in, my printer freezes. If I have it plugged in before I turn it on, it won't even boot up.

[@notenoughtech]

You need to define the screen firmware in the marlin too. If you can move axis from octoprint it's your screen that isn't set up correctly and you need to look at your screen firmware vs how marlin is set

[@ILEFTCAPS0N]

@@notenoughtech Sadly, I don't have Octoprint. Also, I'm not sure how to define the screen firmware. I've been printing for a little over a year, but I have almost no experience with coding and firmware stuff.

[@notenoughtech]

If you go to display section search for your screen type and then you will see options for alignment and firmware. Uncomment what's needed for your screen (read description in the code) and comment out the stuff that is not in use

[@ILEFTCAPS0N]

@@notenoughtech alright, thanks. I was hoping it would have been easy like I might need to swap the position of wires 1 and 3 to the run out sensor.

[@notenoughtech]

@@ILEFTCAPS0N it should be just that - what board/screen are you on btw?

[@slanwar]

On your micro switch you have S/G/U which one is "common/ground" and "NO - normal open"?

[@notenoughtech]

actually, it doesn't matter in what configuration you have it connected as you can reverse the behaviour in firmware - I highlighted this in the code in the associated article.

[@j.lawsonmyers2026]

hi i have completed all steps and have a working filament sensor, but now it does not display any icons on the printer could you please suggest how to fix this

[@notenoughtech]

You need to flash the screens firmware

[@PyronoxOmega]

i followed the wiring diagram to the letter, its not working on jeyrsUI despite i have options for the sensor

[@notenoughtech]

Have you tried gcode commands to test the sensor setup? It will reveal if your switch is in correct configuration and if firmware plays nice

[@PyronoxOmega]

@@notenoughtech i ran this code M119 AFAIR reported all sensors working the odd thing is that i had the run-out sensor disconnected which is odd

[@notenoughtech]

This indicates floating pin. These usually are pulled up or down depending on configuration.

[@chasgiv4]

Thanks for the vid. I am a little lost. I also have octoprint and when I start a print it beeps and docks as though there is no filament. But there is filament. I followed your video step by step. Is there something in octoprint I am supposed to add? A plugin maybe?

[@notenoughtech]

Are you adding both bltouch and filament sensor? Have you added bits of gcode to your slicer? Is the filament sensor working ok with commands that you can use to check the status?

[@chasgiv4]

@@notenoughtech thanks for the response. I think something may be off with the wiring. I moved my sensor and a wire fell off. I have to check everything over again.

[@notenoughtech]

Yes that's not the best result ;)

[@chasgiv4]

@@notenoughtech Replaced the wires completely but there are no prompts to replace the filament. It eventually beeped at me a second time and changed the hotend temp to 0. Any thoughts on that one?

[@chasgiv4]

@@notenoughtech I know they added some code since your build so I am tinkering now.

[@couponcam]

hey i built my firmware but it failed and i got the error message "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE requires a supported LCD controller (or EMERGENCY_PARSER).

[@notenoughtech]

Look at your display settings. It's likely that the feature is trying to add a menu to a display or something and this could get in the way of having a stock display without firmware changes

[@couponcam]

@@notenoughtech What do you mean by display settings? the LCD and SD support ? thx

[@sebastianfeldhoff6652]

How about an extruder update?

[@notenoughtech]

Almost done filming will try to post very soon

[@adambarczewski6040]

Thanks for all. Can you gived mi link where I buying triple pin plastick connector cable? From sensor to mainboard?

[@notenoughtech]

looks like my link never pasted its JST connector

[@notenoughtech]

The author of the original 3D design has removed the account archived link: archive.org/details/thingiverse-4079159

[@cameronarcher1410]

Can we please get a link to the cable you used

[@notenoughtech]

I made it myself from a spare wire and crimps.

[@gudelauneee]

is it possible to use this method and wiring with jyers and it's filament sensor integrated firmware?

[@notenoughtech]

Yes.. but you need to check the switch connection. I'm not sure if logic inst reversed for that firmware. Switches like this have normally open and normally closed positions depending on the pins used so experiment with that.

[@tefatenu]

On the site you share where it says "more info" you can get 2 stls separatly, there is a chance if you can share your file? Even the one to get edited? because I have creality sensor filament and the box won't fit, so I can design one that works. Thanks in advance

[@notenoughtech]

Hi Stefano, I used the design from that link (I haven't modified the design) I didn't have fit issues, It was on the lose side but I glued it in. As this is not my design I have no access to original cad files, sorry about it

[@chairzombie8378]

Having an issue where the printer (ender3 v2 running modified jyers) ends the print almost immediately regardless of whether the sensor is in the up or down position. This is true both for using this printed sensor and for the creality sensor. Thoughts?

[@notenoughtech]

Sounds like either your sensor needs PID tuning or there is something not right in the firmware. Try some gcode commands to and see how the printer responds to ones for the temp changes. Also as this happens on power on, double check the wiring for the bed heater

[@evandowney4662]

The link posted for the switch enclosure is no longer working. :(

[@notenoughtech]

Sadly it wasn't my design but I'll be working on something custom made soon

[@notenoughtech]

archived version: archive.org/details/thingiverse-4079159

[@1michaelknap]

Both the original and archive seem to be unavailable. Any alternatives?

[@notenoughtech]

I'll search for it and try to host it myself. Wanted to make sure the author gets a proper recognition... But that's proven to be a problem

[@1michaelknap]

@@notenoughtech That would be awesome. I wonder if we could determine why the author decided to diligently remove his/her designs? Thanks !

[@notenoughtech]

It would be a guess. Account deleted or posted on a paid STL site to make a profit

[@ufuksipor1219]

hello, after the ender v2 bltouch filament sensor upgrade, can I continue where I left off when the power is cut off?

[@notenoughtech]

I believe the recovery should be baked in if you used their firmware

[@ufuksipor1219]

@@notenoughtech Thanks for your reply. So when the power goes out, will the 3d printer continue printing from where it left off?

[@notenoughtech]

You will need to manually resume but yes v2 has this built in into the firmware. just remember this only works for short periods as if bed cools down too uch your print will pop and you want be able to continue

[@YASAJTV]

I like your video, but two things, I am a newbie and all was easy to understand until you went into firmware coding lol lost completely (my lack of knowledge) I want to do this but 1. Firmware update is my issue (Do not know anything about how to code) 2. My printer is Ender 5 Pro and not the Ender 3

[@notenoughtech]

For Ender5 you will just need to define the board correctly including the definition of the MB, bed sizes steppers etc. If you download the source file with a template for ender 5 it will be done for you so you can just focus on actions for filament sensor. you can browse this on Marlin github

[@YASAJTV]

@@notenoughtech Thanks. I can not find any good step by step tutorial on YT for Ender 5, especially steps of editing firmware (for people who never done any coding ever)

[@notenoughtech]

@@YASAJTV the template I downloaded for mine has folders for each machine. If there is ender 5 on that list use that folder instead and pretty much proceed as usual with this guide as printer related basics should be define correctly. Download back up firmware from creality page just in case

Thanks for video and instruction in your web site. Problem is, I receive 3 errors, "MYSERIAL1" was not declared in this scope error (in three rows) so that compiling fails. What can I do?

[@notenoughtech]

Please check declaration for serial port 1 & 2 in the configuration.h

@@notenoughtech Thanks a lot. I missed or forgot to activate the line #define SERIAL_PORT_2 3 it's compiled now. But current problem is, my BLTouch is with an adapter, which is plugged in screen port. Neighter 5 pin nor 3+2 pin settings does not work. :-(

[@notenoughtech]

@ im not too sure if that requires another thing to unlock.

[@Zicheee]

From work? what do you do?

[@notenoughtech]

I work as robotic engineer

[@StephenSelf444]

wheres the STL link?

[@notenoughtech]

In the article linked alongside the rest of the info

[@rklauco]

Good advice from experience, try not to wire the probe to 24V. Will not be exactly happy...

[@notenoughtech]

Oh god...how quick it went?

[@rklauco]

@@notenoughtech The smoke instantly filled all surroundings :) There was no question about the probe, but I have to say - the board survived. I thought it will trickle through the GPIO pin, but no. The board is OK, the probe is gone ;)

[@notenoughtech]

I measured mine with multimeter... so I was safe :) I'm finishing video now

[@ronm6585]

Thank you. You're not a "CYCOPATH" are you? 🤣

[@notenoughtech]

sh..... :D it's a secret

[@jedeckert9525]

I just woke up to to an empty spool 18 hours into a 21 hour print.

[@notenoughtech]

Oh boy that sucks!

[@justusk18s]

Sh_t. I‘thrown away my Z-Stop last week.

[@notenoughtech]

They are not that hard to buy - only cost pennies,

[@PyronoxOmega]

Seriously this project idea is good Execution is ZERO, you focus entirely on theatrics and showcasing how you don't wanna loose your fancy expensive filaments and you fail to show case how you assemble the project properly, what kind of screws used to fix the wheel and you written instructions on your website clearly states to get the wheel model and you totally forgot to mention that you need the spacers too to fix the damn thing... man seriously if you gonna put on such content please at least do the extra bit of showcasing it properly !! .

[@notenoughtech]

The model linked (unfortunately removed by the author) had the information about the spacers screws etc.

[@PyronoxOmega]

@@notenoughtech well at least if you know that information since u assembled it, please share it with the rest of the class..

[@notenoughtech]

I don't have the original file unfortunately, the bolts are M4x20 with a nylon nut (preferable) you can substitute the bearing inserts with M4 washers as well

[@PyronoxOmega]

@@notenoughtech thank you ...

[@notenoughtech]

Happy to help

[@davidhollis896]

Not worth the hassle... just spend the $20 plug and play and download the firmware... These guys that live and breathe this crap don't understand the rest of us just want to print. Don't just provide the files, try to school everyone on programming. No thanks

[@notenoughtech]

Plug and play doesn't really require the tutorial. This is a video that shows you another approach and eases you into understanding what else can be done with your printer. Learning is a part of the process. I don't breathe this. I actually completed fine art studies then my interests shifted and I started to tinker with stuff and learn how it works. This let me secure a very successful job in robotics without having previous background in that space. It's really all about what you want to gain from your hobby. If you just want to print tat from thingiverse thats fine but I wouldnt judge anyone harshly for giving you opportunities to learn and understand more for free

[@laurenrector93]

If you dont try to learn simple things like this its possible you could have an issue one day and not be able to even know where to begin with trouble shooting the matter. Its not hard. The board is simple to learn and by using different firmware you can greatly increase your print quality and/or productivity. I knew Jack squat about 3d printing when I bought my ender 3 v2. Before then I had never even cut a wire much less make a connection. In less than 6 months I've made my own printer enclosure I monitor wirelessly with a web cam ran off a raspberry pi that also works with a touch lcd. I also compiled jyers new firmware on the ender stock lcd for bl touch and many more upgrades. My point in saying this isn't to toot my own horn so to speak. Its to make an example to you that if I can learn to do all of this in 5 months without living and breathing this stuff anyone can. Sometimes there's more to printing than just leveling the bed. It can get technical. 20$ for an easy way out may not always be an option.

[@notenoughtech]

I always encourage people to try to learn new things but at the same time I paid for convenience in the past. It's all down to how much time you have in your schedule and the will to learn the particular topic. As much as I would like to be more verse in even more topics.. there is not enough time in the day 🤭