Making a Machinists Jack featuring Craig's Workshop

[@martinda7446]

Only one thing is worse than chatter, and that is gossip.To minimise gossip make sure you wear ear defenders and keep your machines out of the tea room. Ear defenders are also an excellent way to reduce chatter of course.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

:-D

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Thanks for bringing me in on this collaboration Alistair - had a great time, and it was fun to meet some of your viewers! Cheers, Craig

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Any time! Let's do something again soon!

[@CraigsWorkshop]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe You know I'm going to hold you to that :)

[@pauldevey8628]

I have been following you for several years now and your videos get more educational and informtative all the time. I appreciate how you are candid regarding your mistakes and review what is happening and why.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Educational and candid is definitely what I'm going for, so good to hear I'm heading in the right direction.

[@pauldevey8628]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I should also note, your videos are fun to watch as well. My basement shop is getting very close to being set up and hope to be making a lot of swarf in the near future.

[@Doug_Edwards]

Nicely done Alistair. I greatly appreciate the one I received from you in 2017. I have made 5 additional matching ones since and have made some with a 3 inch base, 1 3/4 inch top for use on the Bridgeport mill. Thanks again. Doug Edwards

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Hi Doug! Great to hear from you, and especially great to hear you're still using the jack, and that the matching stack geometry works for expanding the set. Any chance you could send me photos of the additional jacks, or action shots? Nothing fancy, just phone camera pics would be lovely.

[@leop9021]

I can't wait to build a few for myself. They look great. Thanks for sharing.

[@Rustinox]

It's really nice to see KZbinrs collaborate. Thanks for posting.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Thanks Rustinox! It was fun to be part of your #coathanger2020 project. Any time you want to collaborate again, just give me a shout!

[@hosseinjahangard336]

Fantastic , what kind of insert you are using for this kind of material Many thanks

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

The insert shape is CCMT 06, which is a useful insert type for small lathes. The roughing was done with a Sandvik Coromant CCMT 060208 insert for steel, though I don't use this insert any more as it needs a heavier cut than my lathe can do. The corners were done with an unbranded CCMT060202 insert with the small 0.2mm radius. These days I almost entirely use ground CCMT inserts for aluminium. They work fine on steel, cut way better, but don't last quite as long.

[@asdfdfggfd]

Just an enormous feat of patience to machine steel on these small machines.

[@colincreedtattoomachines]

Alistair, great job on editing this follow-up video, Well done!! And very nice of Craig to do the collaboration with you too.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Thank you Colin!

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Thanks Colin, and thanks for being here since the very beginning.

[@richharr]

One piece of high density packing foam with the thread wires poked into it makes a great thread wire holder

[@donaldmatthies6026]

That's allot of skill and patience to make that part! One day when I get better with the lathe I just bought, I'll get there, after I figure out what cutters to use. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and make this video.

[@paulmorrey4298]

Great video - Thanks How do I access the dimensions - I followed the link and can see the model but no Dimensions ? Cheers

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

OnShape allows you to get the dimensions of any part of the model you want. The easiest way is to select the sketches used to construct the model, and that will show the dimenions of the shapes defined in that sketch. Alternatively you can make a copy of the model, and use a Diagram sheet to annotate the model with the dimensions you want. OnShape will automatically make sure the dimensions are correct.

[@Festivejelly]

The tiny tool range from carmex is perfect for this range. I get them from Protool in the UK. They arnt exactly cheap and I think are designed for CNC really but they are ideal for small lathes and boring out small holes and grooves. I just hold them in my quick change tool post with the V groove in the tool holder.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nicely done.

[@gworx-247]

same issues here....also working with a 250E...good work!!! 😀👍

[@jacqueso8424]

Lower speed on drilling always helps improve a situation. Higher speed just aggrevates to more problem. Ive always did it that way on mills, and lathes, then again each one for him self

[@edgeeffect]

Oooh... thanks for the chatter... I've got a lot of the same problems you discuss here but was far more clueless about it than you are... some great explanation here. I like the way you broke this into parts and put the mid-roll adverts in the gaps... for one, it's like watching telley in the olden days and it makes the mid-roll adverts much less intrusive if you finish a sentence before they start and have a nice "Part 2" graphic when they're done.

[@nigelpearson2976]

I also thread away from the chuck, with the spindle in reverse, when possible. Rarely use a shoulder thread gutter, though - usually just plunge at the same point, using the spring in the boring bar to take up the next pass's cutting depth. P.S. You can chamfer without chatter if you are patient. Either use the tip and make multiple shallow cuts, carefully lining them up at the end, or turn the compound slide at 45° and use it to make light passes

[@AlmostMachining]

Very fine work. This was a great watch. Thank you!

[@HansFormerlyTraffer]

Thanks for sharing your wisdom. I have a mini lathe and use it "by the seat of the pants". Watching you reminds me that I will never be a machinist...I have absolutely no patients for projects like this. But I learned a lot watching. I see that I managed to figure out a by bumbling along many of the drilling principles that you explain. My first project was to drill (not bore) a 13/16" hole in a 4" piece of 1" diameter round stock. People are still trying to tell me that if I just had a "sharp drill bit" I could have drilled that large hole easily. They have no comprehension of how little power a 7x10 mini lathe actually has I guess. But I did it several times although it took time and experimentation. It was my first video on KZbin. It is interesting to go back and look at my lack of knowledge about machining then (January 2019) I have learned a lot since then thanks to folks like you.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks for sharing!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Alistair, Good video and really interesting to hear your commentary made now on your work filmed a couple of years ago... I am off to watch's Craig's video now... Take care. Paul,,

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Thanks Paul! I hope I've learned a bit over the last couple of years, and I've certainly learned a lot about how to shoot footage better. Did my extremely belated letter and stickers eventually get to you?

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Yes the letter and stickers arrived safely, thank you... I will add them to the sticker board in the next hotchpotch episode... Take care.

[@joeybobbie1]

The Jack came out Great. I enjoyed watching the Video. Looks like a good Project for me to try especially since I don’t have any Machinist Jacks yet. Thanks for the Video.👍

[@yak-machining]

Is your precision ground stock case hardened? usually to a thickness up to 1,8mm

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

I don't think it is. I've worked with case-hardened material, and know what to expect, and this silver steel doesn't feel any different near the OD than at the core.

[@rjordans]

Nice project and great video, thanks!

[@k9c7a5j3]

Perhaps I've missed it but where can I find details of the thread, the OD of the external thread portion, and the ID of bore for the internal thread?

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

It's an M12x1 ISO Metric Fine thread. You can get all the dimensions from the OnShape link in the description.

[@k9c7a5j3]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Thank you for this. I tried hard to extract dimensions from the link but was unable. Probably not proficient enough on that file format.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Alister, beautiful job and there a must have tool, throughly enjoyed watching mate, cheers Matty

[@Engineerd3d]

Wonderful work and very nice design you have there.

[@MichaelLloyd]

No doubt by now you've figured out your "chatter" issues. I noticed that you reference "why" in the video. I'm looking forward to more recent content. Thanks for taking the time to make the vidoes

[@martinda7446]

Two years in the making....This should be good...!

[@YooProjects]

I like your style dear man. Cant wait to see your next project 👍

[@Kineth1]

The similarity of style between the two thumbnails made me think you had released two videos at once! I guess that is the right thing to do with a collaboration.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Yep, though perhaps next time we're thinking we might do two Premiere's back-to-back, so we can encourage the same group of audience to watch both.

[@1911wood]

Good video I would be interested in learning more about thread wire calculations.

[@uther10]

I am a bit late, but this is a great video with tons of detail and great talent!

[@homemadetools]

Nice work. We featured this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)

[@RixtronixLAB]

Nice video shot, thank you for sharing it , keep it up:)

[@bibo159]

I really enjoy your videos, Keep up the good work!

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Glad you like them!

[@ParsMaker]

nice work,

[@pgs8597]

G’day Alistair. I feel your pain with chatter on a mini lathe, it looked like your boring bar was moving over when it engaged with the material, was there backlash in the cross slide at the time? It appears you don’t have a low range for the spindle, very difficult to drill large holes, at least my old mini lathe has hi-Lo range. Cheers Peter

[@TigerCarpenter]

great video I wish you showed what the jack does

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

The jack is used in the previous video, Making a Custom Tap ...

[@TigerCarpenter]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe ok thanks, I'll look for it. I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to showcase the mini jack in this video as well, just for 10-15 seconds to show what you are actually making.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Using a collet chuck to hold the bar in the bandsaw is really innovative. It extends the range of the standard saw jaws. Some 8.5 minutes.. What TPI did You use? I would have used a lot more fine thread unless jacking up my car.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

I found it interesting that fine threads are stronger than coarse threads (maybe counter-intuitively), but also slower to adjust of course. So yes, something coarser for a full size screw jack, and finer for fine adjustability. I agree, the collet chuck in the bandsaw was a great idea.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Stefan - I just measured this, and it's M12 fine (1.25mm pitch) - this is very similar to 1/2" UNF (20tpi), and either would work well. You could go finer if you want fine adjust - but if you saw my video you see how easy it was to tilt a part to exactly 2.00 degrees from horizontal.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

@@CraigsWorkshop M12 and 1.25 must be okey. I've used M12 1.0 tap in order to match an already made thread. In the video it looked like M?? 2.0... Tilt to 2 degrees? I don't get it.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

@@Stefan_Boerjesson A wide angle lens and/or the choice of camera angle can make it look like things are at an angle. It might look like a larger 2.0mm pitch because (I believe) Al's using a macro lens which gets you really, really close to the action. It's not quite like filming through a microscope, but it's part way there. The whole jack is very small, but I make it work well on my floor standing mill with no issues - so it's ideal for me.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Yep, a maros lens used throughout. It can be hard to spot that the whole jack is only 20mm in diameter.

[@pauls5745]

nicely done! sounds like me going thru a learning experience with every part I make haha. I do 1-offs and just prototype things. I do have facing down tho hahaha he chose a difficult geometry to incorporate. a jack should be about the easiest thing to make

[@GroovyDrifter]

We love you too.

[@cooley2379]

Thanks for the video! I’ve been looking for a good video on these jacks. One quick honest question: if the speeds were too high during these processes, why didn’t you slow the lathe down? Is it that you lathe does not have the capability for variable speeds? Just curious.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

It does have a speed control, but it's a very basic controller. Reducing the speed means reducing the electrical power to the motor, which significantly decreases the available torque. Operations like drilling and parting need a lot of torque, and if there isn't enough then the lathe stalls, leaving the tool wedged into the metal. Big industrial machines don't have this problem because they have a fixed speed motor, and change speeds using a gear box. This means they get loads of torque at low speeds, and can really easily do things that are hard to impossible on a mini lathe.

[@geoffkeeler5106]

Is the lack of chamfer on the parts a deliberate choice? Excellent video regardless, and thanks for including all the lessons learned, which would have saved me having to go through that process myself!

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

The lack of chamfer comes from the original design inspiration from Phil and Pierre. I don't know their original decision process on that. All the corners were eased slightly with a lathe file, then smartened up with a rubberized silicon carbide stick.

[@geoffkeeler5106]

Thanks for the reply sir, I thought there would be an explanation judging by the level of care and skill you displayed in the making process. May your making prosper and your videos continue to brighten up the KZbin engineering community!

[@cpcoark]

Where is the link to the plans?

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Ooops, sorry! Should be fixed now. So many things on the checklist and somehow I missed this one.

[@matthewtaylor9066]

That's cool

[@nullsnaggle5198]

What model of lathe do you use?

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

This video was entirely made with my Proxxon PD 250/e lathe and its accompanying Proxxon PF 230 mini mill.

[@nullsnaggle5198]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe nice ima see if I can save up enough money to get one also. NEVER EVER BUY A CHEING SHUN(I think thats the name) LATHE THEY ARENT WORTH THE MONEY

[@MF175mp]

@@nullsnaggle5198 the chinese mini lathes are made by SIEG, or Shanghai Industrial Engineering Group

[@nullsnaggle5198]

@@MF175mp yeah but this one was also sold as a drill press a disk sander a hand drill a hand sander a cnc machine or a wood lathe

[@tomt9543]

@@MF175mp I’ve got a SEIG mini lathe and milling machine, and I like them extremely well! Going through them and adjusting the gibs, tramming the head, and a good overall tweaking has resulted in two very good machines! Those no name, extremely cheap Chinese mini lathes are a whole different story!

[@brandontscheschlog]

Does anyone know what happened to Phil? He hasn’t made any videos in a while

[@kacperko7624]

Why you use carbide insert tooling instead of hss ground one. High speed steel works much better on small lathes

[@TheSchildkroet]

You can get a decent finish with inserts if you know what you are doing (and chosing the right inserts ofc). But the bigger problem here is that his machines are not made to machine such hard steel. At 31:35 you can see very clearly that the boring bar is moving almost 1mm when it hits the stock.

[@samuraidriver4x4]

Agree, it is very hard to push the inserts to their optimal with small lathes. Especially when the lathe has a lot of flexibility and probably backlash like @Schildkroet is mentioning

[@Andrew_Fernie]

@@TheSchildkroet I'm sure that if he had a nice big Colchester across the room then he would have used that instead of the baby Proxon. We can only use what we have to hand and despite the pain of the machines, turned out a nice item in the end.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

I'm certain the precision ground silver steel is not case hardened. It has a carbon content of nearly 1%, and is easy to through-harden with simple heating and quenching. There is no hint of additional hardness at the ground surface.

[@JohnDoe-qg6hm]

OK Ive only just started to watch this video and already I'm frustrated as Ive seen something I cant explain >:( That does not happen often. So at 1:05 you start drawing the jack. Were you tracing a faint image or is it some CGI trickery ? HOW DID YOU DRAW THE JACK ?

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

I'm not actually drawing it. The diagram is from CAD, then it's "drawn" using some whiteboard animation software. This software is pretty common in training and educational videos.

[@JohnDoe-qg6hm]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Thanks for your quick response. Keep the videos comming ! :D What whiteboard software did you use ? I'm not familiar with this technique :/ I suspected some "cgi" esk tomfoolery was going on :)

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

@@JohnDoe-qg6hm I used Doodly. It seemed like a good way to share a diagram without everyone just staring at a stationary screen while I talk.

[@ollysworkshop]

Hi. I made an ER32 collet chuck for my lathe with an unfinished cast iron backplate from RDG Tools (which they don't appear to stock at the moment). By making it on the lathe it is to be used on, it ends up running very true. I reused the closing nut and collets from my mill, so only cost about £20. I enjoyed the video, see you next time!

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Thanks for the reference point. I did try and make an ER collet chuck for the Proxxon which mounted directly on the spindle, but I was inexperienced and didn't know how to machine the taper with enough accuracy. I went for the Morse off-the-shelf option as a substitute.

[@TheScaryName]

The nub left on the stock when you face it, tells me your tool is not level with the center of your chuck. Thanks for the upload, I enjoy following along in your adventures with that lathe :)

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Yep, I did correct it for later passes, but I didn't film the adjustment, and thought I didn't really have time to fit in talking about it.

[@juliusvalentinas]

Proxxon lathes are such a crap? I know their dremel tools are bad, but lathes too?

[@jeremybaker8626]

I’ve noticed you lathe chatters very bad, it it bolted securely to a table? It every thing tighten down as rigid as it could be. I know you probably already covered all of these things? At any rate I do enjoy your channel good content good filming good good work. 👍

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

In this video, a lot of it was due to the flex in the morse collet chuck, which I mentioned near the beginning. Since this video I've bolted the lathe to a granite slab, which has made a whole load of difference.

[@mealex303]

your good at drawing 😂😂😂😂

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

My real hands aren't quite as soft and and flexible as the ones you see drawing in this video. :)

[@mealex303]

your having so much chatter because that steel is very tough and your headstock bearings arnt substantial enough for the pressures it needs to cut it

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Honestly British silver steel is pretty easy to machine. Unlike German grade it has no vanadium content. I'm pretty confident a lot of the problems in this video were down to the huge flex in the collet chuck shaft, and the use of tools with way too much engagement like the large nose radius, or the chamfer tool.

[@harezy]

Wrong tool for an external thread was pain full to watch sorry lol. Using a internal threading b/bar. If is was an IR insert that has a deeper depth of cut, Hench turning the OD later !

[@CraigsWorkshop]

The thread in the end result is a great fit and works perfectly though. You wouldn't know from looking at it, that it wasn't cut with the perfect tool for the job. I really enjoy seeing people using what they have to get the job done.

[@andersjjensen]

You spoke a little faster in this video than you normally do.. I know it's a fairly long one already, but it feels like you are rushing it when you speak that fast. A nice video none the less though. But I do hope you'll go back to your normal "Come with me on a relaxing journey in my workshop"-style :)

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

I'm constantly working to slow down my voiceover delivery without sounding like a robot. While I know I spoke too fast in some of this video, I think I did much better later on. Interested to know if you hear any improvement. The issue isn't that I'm hurrying; it's that I tend to speak too fast when I'm talking about technical things, or nervous. Or both.

[@andersjjensen]

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Yes I did notice that you paced differently at different times. You have a very pleasant voice when you speak "laid back". Kinda like when Morgan Freeman narrates things :D Try actively putting your feet up and lean back when you record the voice overs? They say the mind follows the body and vice versa.

[@facundoguevaracastro8337]

🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷👍👍

[@GraphicManInnovations]

lot of struggle to cut with this lathe, i think i see a new lathe for you in the future you are killing inserts too when u cut in such parameters, really useless lathe

[@robertlark7751]

I know you did this with good intentions but it was too painful to watch. Slow your machines down,

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

I feel the same pain when watching it, but with a small lathe with no gearbox it's not always that simple. Sometimes turning down the speed means the lathe will immediately stall, and jam the tool into the part. I think loving to hand-ground carbide for extra sharpness for some operations might allow me to get away with lower speeds.

[@kaieteurcanada]

Maybe its just me but the audio to machine noise made the narrrative un-hearable. Left after two mins.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Noted, and I'll try and improve that in future videos. Different people cope with background noise differently, so it's hard for me to tell how a certain audio mix will work for you, but I'll try and make sure the voiceover stands out more in future videos.

[@J23-e1j]

REKLAMY 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤬🤬🤬🤬💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩💩