New Spindle Start/Stop Lever - Operating The Mini Lathe Like A Pro

Many of the full size professional lathes have a spindle start/stop and sometimes reverse lever on the right side of the carriage. This is really useful as the hands can stay on the carriage where they are needed. On a small lathe like my Mini Lathe this is not really needed but as the sewing machine motor and electronics came already with a lever type pedal switch and I tend to overengineer things, I had the idea of making a nice spindle start/stop lever like on big lathes on mine too.
In a last video I installed new bearing blocks and bearings for the leadscrew and also installed a hexagonal rod alongside the machine bed. This steel rod acts as the switching rod.
I built a lever mechanism which is safe against accidental start when something drops on the lever. The movement of the lever translates via the hex rod to a magnet and a hall sensor which is mounted to the left hex rod bearing. This modification works really well so far and is extremely convenient to use. It feels really great to have the heavy duty physical start stop lever in your right hand and don't have to reach over the machine for pressing a start button.
I had some concerns if the carriage is too small for such an upgrade and everything is too tiny but that's not the case. It feels just right.
I hope, you enjoy this video.
If you have questions or suggestions, please let me know in the comments.
And if you want more of this content please consider to subscribe to the channel.
Thank you very much!
If you want to support my work via Patreon I would be very thankful!
www.patreon.com/wecandothatbetter
Plans for this project available for download on my Patreon page.
Video on installing the hex rod and bearing block for the lead screw:
• New Lead Screw Bearing...
00:00 Intro
00:25 Mounting Plate
04:32 Lever Stop Part
07:28 Lever Knob
10:47 Lever Rod
11:49 Hex Bushings and Bushing Sleeve
14:34 Bolt Screws and Spring
15:01 Test Assembly
15:32 Hardening The Stop Part
17:06 All Parts and Final Assembly
19:01 Bringing the Lever to Live (Electronics)

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Hello, 10 page set of drawings for this project is now available for download on my patreon page: www.patreon.com/wecandothatbetter

[@philip_fletcher]

This is a very good build - getting the carriage lever to work on my Bantam was the best decision. Just one minor issue: by default 'on' should be pulled 'up' with the fail safe (gravity) turning the machine off in the down position so any failure in the mechanism will not unintentionally start the lathe. This is a convention across many industries - eg dropping something on a gas or water lever valve will shut them off if correctly fitted.

[@kbrtom59]

I was going to suggest the same. If the lever action ever fails, you want the off position working with gravity

[@heinrichhemker8123]

Definitely correct!

[@an2thea514]

Never seen a Lathe where Up is forward. Either the Lathe has a clutch and there is only Down for engagement or Up is for Reverse.

[@philip_fletcher]

@@an2thea514 It's in the Colchester Bantam manual: "With the lever in the uppermost position, forward rotation of the spindle is achieved..." - I'd attach a picture if I could. I would imagine all Colchester lathes are the same and that they followed (or led) an industry standard practice.

[@an2thea514]

@@philip_fletcher I know from the Colchester Student and Colchester Triumpf 2000 I have seen that that is a Lever at the Headstock and not a Power Spindle, so it's a different thing entirely.

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Now you have a mini Monarch! Nicely done. Thanks for sharing. Cheers

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

:D Thanks for your kind comment! :)

[@somebodyelse6673]

I've never seen a 123 block used as a fixture plate. It's obvious now that I've seen it, I doubt I'd ever have come up with that without having seen it. Thanks mate!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@blankroomsoup666]

You haven’t because it’s not meant to be used that way. Good quality precision ground blocks should be handled with utmost care, and for a quick setup I’d much rather make a reusable fixture sized to the vice or just drill and tap a piece of stock.

[@TheFreshmanWIT]

@@blankroomsoup666 Yeah, but that is one of those cheap imports that is a "almost 1"-"Nearly 2"-"Perhaps 3" block.

[@ToreDL87]

What has been seen cannot be unseen

[@lensman5762]

A long tine ago, an experienced machinist told me that buying one of these Chinese lathes, is a big project for itself. They are for sure ' W.I.P ' lathes. Your project, was very well designed and executed.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you very much!

[@CoolAirVw]

Ok, I was like "What in the world is that hex thing for in the last video"? Then I saw this video published this morning and started watching in anticipation of finding out what it was, then I was like "DAMN, thats cool", but then I was like. Overengineering at its best! Love the channel!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! Why do it easy when you can make it complicated ;)

[@CoolAirVw]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter AMEN!

[@joewhitney4097]

Great project and video. Using the brass hex plugs to get the hex nut drive bushing was a great idea. Thanks for sharing.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment!

[@andli461]

Absolutely brilliant design and craftsmanship! Keep posting more stuff you make. Please!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you so much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that!

[@orangetruckman]

Glad you didn’t loose a finger!! Your work is top notch 👍🏻

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Oh yes, I was very lucky this day. Didn't get harmed by the incident. But that was scary!

[@orangetruckman]

Clear justification for modifying the lathe, riiigghhtt 😉 Thank you illustrating for us why the modification was done 🙃

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

@@orangetruckman Yes, that's definitely a reason. Safety first ;)

[@TalRohan]

I like that, its a really tidy idea that works brilliantly and the craftmanship is spot on

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Hi and thanks for your kind comment! I relly do appreciate that. Happ to hear, you like it. This on off switch on the lathes carriage turned out to be extremely convenient. It was really worth the effort.

[@crpth1]

Considering the subject is inexpensive mini lathes. This is absolutely crazy, unneeded and totally overkill... In conclusion: I love it! 🙂🙂

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks a lot!

[@colinmcmillan2642]

Beautiful work as always, I was starting to get withdrawal pains awaiting your next build! Thank you so much for sharing your talent with us mere mortals.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

:D Thank you so much for your compliment! I really do appreciate that! :)

[@haydenc2742]

Very cool. Case hardening is less stressful on the parts but leaves a very good hard shell on the parts. Keep em coming!!!!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you! How would you case harden this piece? I'm not very experienced with hardening steel.

[@12prasad21]

Use low carbon steel. Pack it in charcoal after machining. Keep the whole thing in your furnace at 850 C for 12-15 hrs. Quench in water. For fine finish, be prepared to retouch a few spots

[@12prasad21]

Use low carbon steel. Pack it in charcoal after machining. Keep the whole thing in your furnace at 850 C for 12-15 hrs. Quench in water. For fine finish, be prepared to retouch a few spots

[@matejostransky7154]

Artisan Makes made a pretty nice video about case hardening...

[@larrykent196]

The direction for on, hey who cares the dam thing works great, looks fantastic and cheers to you for that.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you very much!

[@eddietowers5595]

Every mistake is a lesson as important as any tool in your possession and why one must not rush projects. I like how you used a carrot as the handle.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! Yes, I got really lucky not to loose any fingeror something or having a hole in my head from flying chuck key :/ That's really a lesson. The new lever should be much safer I hope!

[@RJ99729]

I like this upgrade! It's more like a bigger machine now

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Exactly. Thanks!

[@markl1604]

Important safe switch for lathe. Excellent build quality.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you!

[@Carnold_YT]

Great work! I'm waiting for the original lathe manufacturer to incorporate all your improvements and then buy one myself. I really like all those improvements you made!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

haha ;) Thanks!

[@daye3998]

This was very well done 👍 especially the speed control by the lever it’s an awesome idea

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you very much!

[@blankroomsoup666]

I don’t think speed control there is a good idea, you’d be bumping into it all the time.

[@philip_fletcher]

At one point I designed a rotating knob on the lever to do the speed control on mine but that would've required a trailing wire which kinda defeats the object!

[@WrenagadeWorkshop]

A Very well thought out and executed modification hood sir, love it 👍

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you very much for your kind comment!

[@jalechavez6042]

Genial...!!...Hermosa la Presión con la que trabaja...ji ji ji...Saludossss.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Muchas gracias!

[@girliedog]

Very nicely done; thank you for sharing this project with us.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment!

[@user-id6mj8uw9b]

Great job, as always. Like your brass sleeve solution, pretty smart one. About hardering i have a thought. To prevent cracks try to use mineral oil instead water. Crack came from fast temperature drop-off.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you! I used C45 steel which was recommended to be quenched in water, but oil would probably be the better choice, yes.... Next time :)

[@varjagg]

A pleasure to watch as usual.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that!

[@MyLilMule]

Nicely made. I'm thinking an oil quench versus a water quench would have been better and likely prevented the cracking.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks! Yes, next time I definitely try quenching the part in oil.

[@cda32]

If it's cold rolled wouldn't a temper cycle before machining help reduce the internal stresses too?

[@CerealKiller187]

@@cda32 Thats what I was thinking as well.

[@drucker03]

A very useful improvement!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Indeed, even with the lathe being so small this is so much more comfortable to use. Was definitely the right choice to do this.

[@thomasfkeefe]

Another very nice build. Thank you.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your kind comment!

[@francescoruggeri6901]

Bravo sei proprio un attrezzista

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Mille grazie!

[@anthonymarino4260]

great project. well dine

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@mftmachining]

Haste wieder gut gemacht. Bei einigen Aktionen standen mir allerdings die Haare hoch. Deinen C 45 hättest du nicht härten müssen. Der ist von haus aus sehr fest und hält den belastungen in deiner Drehbank locker stand. Härten mach immer in Öl, da bist du auf der sicheren Seite, vorwärmen auf 60-70°C. Normalisieren vor dem härten ist auch ne Option. Noch n tip: Um ein Gefühl zu bekommen, wie hart oder zäh Stahl ist, mach mal folgendes: Besorg dir 3 stück 8mm dicken Rundstahl in 30cm länge. Einmal S235, einmal S355 und einmal C45. Spann jeweils die enden in den Schraubstock und versuche die zu biegen. Dann verstehst du plötzlich die 3 Kohlenstoffgehalte und die Festigkeit im Zusammenhang. 0,09%, und 0,22% und 0,45% machen einen RIESEN Unterschied. Ab S355 beisst du dir definitiv die Zähne aus. Hatte ich gerade letzte Woche....wollte einem Werkzeug einen etwas grössen Winkel geben....stand am schluss mit beiden Füssen an der Werkbank und hab gezogen...der S355 hat mir gepflegt mal den Finger gezeigt. :--D

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Hi :) Danke dir für den ausführlichen Kommentar und das Feedback! Lerne gerne noch dazu. Bezüglich härten: da bin ich erst draufgekommen, nachdem das Teil nach ein paar Tagen im Testbetrieb schon leichte Einlaufspuren bekommen hat, an der Stelle, an der der 4mm Zylinderstift auf der Stopperkulisse schleift. Das hat mich auch sehr erstaunt. Hatte nicht erwartet, dass die Belastung so groß ist. Allerdings ist der 4mm Stift auch gehärtet und die Federspannung ist nicht ganz sachte. Weil ich mich nicht nach ein paar Wochen ärgen wollte, dass das Teil schon ausgenudelt ist, bin ich aufs härten gekommen. Dummerweise hab ich zu C45 in den Messerforen und Datenblättern, die mir Google vorgeschlagen hat, nur vom Wasserhärten als Mittel der Wahl gelesen. Und mein Hirn hab ich nach dem ersten Fehlversuch auch nicht eingeschaltet und bin auf Öl umgestiegen, hab mit dem Härten an sich auch leider keine Erfahrung... :) Deswegen danke für den Hinweis, nächstes Mal werde ichs mit Öl versuchen. Wo standen dir noch die Haare zu Berge? :)

[@mftmachining]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter Hi, danke für deine Antwort. Das mit den Haaren: Der Versatz beim Aufreiben mit der Ahle....Die Aktion mit dem 1-2-3 Block ohne Gegenhalter....und die Aktion mit dem Sägeblatt....klar, kann man alles machen, aber für mich, der stets auf höchste Prozesssicherheit bedacht ist kommt da schon ein Stirnrunzeln raus..:--). Ich liebe nämlich die vermeidbaren Überraschungen nicht sonderlich. Zum Härten: Messerforen sind da nicht der geeignete Platz zum suchen. Es kommt bei diesen Dingen entscheidend auf die Werkstückgeometrie an. Messermacher haben da ganz andere Dinge zu beachten als du mit deinem Werkstück. Wenn an deinem Werkstück dicke Partien und dünne zugleich vorhanden sind, sind Abschreckungsrisse vorprogrammiert. Besonders wenn du schroffe Abschrecker wie Wasser nimmst. Möglicherweise wäre es besser gewesen, du hättest einen Lufthärter genommen. Der kühlt langsam und ist nicht so anfällig. Ja ich weiss, da gibt es so viele Dinge zu beachten, das kann man kaum leisten, ist eher was für die Serienfertigung. Ansonsten...mach weiter so, macht immer Spass deine Videos zu sehen. Gruss, Michael.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

@@mftmachining Haha, ja ok danke für die Hinweise :D! Manchmal mach ich einen ziemlichen Spagat zwischen möglichst hoher Qualität im Ergebnis und furchtbarer, dilettantischer Improvisation, weil die richtigen Mittel oder Werkzeuge fehlen. Beim Sägeblatt dachte ich kurz, einen Halter für Horn Stechplatten zu bauen. Aber das war mir für Zwischendurch dann doch zu aufwendig :) Kommt vllt iwann. Und danke für den Hinweis zu den Messerforen. Das ergibt natürlich im Nachhinein Sinn. Die Risse sind ja auch da entstanden, wo die Bohrungen waren. So komplizierte Formen und Eigenarten haben Messer ja normalerweise nicht. Da mag Rissbildung nicht so ein Thema sein. Danke auf jeden Fall für die Hilfe und Feedback! ;)

[@Farmfield]

Best way to start the day! 😁 👌

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

:D Thanks!

[@THusbands]

Really great and genius work. For hardening. Try a oil quench or a short oil quench then into water to slow down the rapid cooling. Might help prevent cracking

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! Good hint on quenching. I think water was to harsh for C45 steel. Won't do this again :)

[@ksaweryszykiedans5839]

Nice job. If you do not mind a short remark about hardening - some alloys require to be heated up in a given pace and to be held in normalizing temperature in a proper time. Also medium used for cooling is important. It seems to me that your part was cooled down to fast - maybe oil would work better. I know that in a small workshop it could be hard - I had only a part of a garage for my "metal working" sand box. Please do not stop and keep going :)

[@mftmachining]

You´re absolutely right....even C45 is not an alloy...

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment and advise! Next time I use oil for quenching. The water I used cooled the part probably to harsh and causes the cracks.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

😁 I always wondered if someone would do this. Nice one.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@DULENSHK]

Mini beast lathe!!

[@dussel07]

Großartige Arbeit!!!👍

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Vielen Dank! Freut mich, wenn es gefällt :)

[@daveys]

Nice mod!

[@WheatMillington]

I fucken LOVE this mod!! Awesome work, love the channel.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks! I really do appreciate that!

[@dermotkelly2971]

great job ! Worth doing

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you very much! The new switch is so convenient to use. Really worth the effort.

[@marcoschwanenberger3127]

Very clever! One thing I'd like to point out though; As already mentioned, UP should be on and DOWN should be off, for safety reasons. Likewise the speed control integrated into that lever is a very clever trick, although I'd have concerns about one thing: If the speed must be very low (Very unbalanced Part/not super great workholding/etc.) and the lever accidentally goes down, it would go into full speed. That could potentially be catastrophic. Remaking the "clicky" part mirrored to have the lever be UP in the ON position would solve both problems. Again, other than that - Great Idea and execution!

[@panbekon1470]

That was my first thought also. On up, off down. Great work anyway.

[@wolf310ii]

You never worked on real lathe? Up = on is total counter intuitive. And integreting the speed control into the lever is not clever, its a bad idea, because of the exact reason you already mention. On industrial lathes with the speed control in the lever its down= conterclockwise (forward), middle = off, up = clockwise (reverse) and twisting for speed control

[@marcoschwanenberger3127]

@@wolf310ii All Colchester Lathes have Up-On.

[@wolf310ii]

@@marcoschwanenberger3127 Only the very old Cholchesters with the lever on the headstock have Up=On (wich is still rotating the lever in the same direction the chuck should rotate). Cholchesters with the lever on the slide, like a normal lathe, have down=on, up=reverse, middle=stop

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment and feedback! Yes, some mentioned the concerns about the direction the lever starts the spindle. I copied this from other machines. Almost every full size lathe works like the mechanism I built. Down starts the spindle right and on some lathes up starts the spindle in reverse (left). For me this is very intuitive and convenient although for ultimate safety reasons that should be different, you're right. To prevent the spindle from accidental start I built the locking mechanism in the off position. That's something I also copied from the full size models. If something drops on the lever, it is expected to stay in off position and not start the machine. The speed control is more a nice gimmic as it was already built in the sewing machine pedal switch. I use the lever normally at full amplitude with spindle at full speed according to the max speed set on the controler. But to quickly lower the spindle speed for a last chamferring operation on your part without having to programm a lower speed on the controler, I think it's great. But you're right, there is the risk of accidentally dropping the lever down and ramping at full speed. We'll see how usefull it is. Definitely the new lever should be much safer than the pedal switch bolted to the spindle casting. The video told you how dangerous it was... Happy to still have all fingers and no hole in my head! Thanks for your input :)

[@72MQuinn]

It's neat and all. Personally when I have used sewing machine servos on my projects I throw the magnetic switch out. Magnets and metal working is an eventual fail. I wire in a 10k ohm potentiometer so I have precise control of the on/off and speeds.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! Yes I know some people who installed a potentiometer instead of the orginial switch. That is a good solution too, but I wanted a proper on/off lever on the carriage like on big machines. This feels just so much more convenient to use and very ergonomically. As the original switch was already a lever type thing that worked together perfectly. Off course the magnet and sensor has to be somewhat protected from metal chips.

[@udayawanninayake3930]

Can you please explain how you change detection of motor

[@camillosteuss]

Damn, that chuck key dinged those ways for sure... Glad you got away from it with all your parts intact, but i lament the lathe nonetheless... To avoid cracks, normalize the parts first, run them once without quench, letting them cook for a while(argon purge would be marvelous for that), and then harden them... Machining can focus the already present stress in the metal and cause its own stress points and lines... Normalization either removes or greatly reduces those... And if steel warps during normalization, it would have done so had you just tried hardening it, so its no problem that was avoidable, and after normalization, there wont be further warping during the second heat treat... So you can rough machine the parts, normalize them, finish machine them to spec and harden them, warping should be absolutely minimal, enough that it will not interfere with anything rougher than an h7 fit... And nothing a bit of abrasive work wont solve, turn a custom lapping rod and work the warping outta holes with a hand drill, it will save the lathe a lot of disgusting abrasives and will allow you to vary the speed of lapping and give you amazing feedback as you have both parts in your hands and feel any resistance(defects) that the lap encounters...

[@andyvan5692]

at 16:24 this is why on the show "Forged in Fire", they ALWAYS quench parts in OIL, NOT water!!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Yes, that was a bit dumb of me. I used C45 steel and the datasheet says to quench it in water. But after the first failed try I should have changed to oil but didn't think so far... :)

[@user-bd4kf1yq1b]

Das erinnert an meine Konstruktion die ich bei meiner Bullcraft MD 105 gemacht habe.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Gibts das irgendwo zu sehen? Ist in jedem Fall eine angenehme Lösung.

[@Lone-Wolf87]

Well done. 👍👍👍👍👍

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you!

[@adriankohli4870]

Top-Job,Sir👌

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@arduinomaquinas]

Awesome job❤ 🇧🇷😉👍🇧🇷 like full 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you!

[@Salverstein]

Strongly exellence !

[@argentinocqc]

Aplausos maestro!!!

[@petrsvoj]

Nice video, thanks👍

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for you comment!

[@MirekDvorak]

Good work. As someone mentioned here, hardening is a specific activity and different types of steel need different media. Anyway, it wants to soak in warm water or oil. Otherwise, there is a thermal shock that causes cracks. Let's say around 50-60 degrees will be ok.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! The water I used was pretty cold. I didn't know that warm water is better. Next I try this or oil.

[@MirekDvorak]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter All right, keep going. Your videos are really great.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

@@MirekDvorak Thanks! I really do appreciate that! And nice surname ;) Any relations with the composer?

[@MirekDvorak]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter Just a coincidence. Although I used to play too. But "uncle" was just better... 😂

[@gagasmancave8859]

Been waiting for this

[@hugogritsch3048]

Einfach genial 👍👍

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

danke:)

[@arturobetancourth3988]

Nice craftsmanship! It's better to quench on motor oil than water! Or make part out of A2 tool steel and just let the part cool on air

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! Next time, I will quench in oil for sure. C45 is recommended to be quenched in water but after the first failure I should have changed to oil.

[@arturobetancourth3988]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter Keep doing this nice content man

[@Bob_Jones_]

awesome!

[@the_zule]

Really nice build. As an observation, it would maybe have been better to have the “throw” of the control lever in the opposite direction so that gravity (should that happen) would default the lever to the off position… very much like electrical switches…

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! Yes some others suggested that too. From the safety standpoint that would be the ultimative best I guess. However my built is inspired by how it's done on most full size lathes. Pushing the lever down starts the spindle on almost every lathe with such a lever. That is very common and intuitive as the spindle starts in the same direction as the lever goes. Some lathes run the spindle in reverse when the lever is pulled upwards. There is a safety lock built in as you see in the end of the video. The lever is locked in off position and has to be pushed to the right before you can push it down and start the spindle. If something drops on the lever it doesn't move because of that locking mechanism. I hope that is safe enough :)

[@akukorhonen5182]

Soviet lathes work the other way around. Lever up is normal cutting direction, lever down is reverse.

[@mikemakuh5319]

Nice idea, perhaps you should explain the sewing machine motor you are using.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! I made a video on the sewing machin motor upgrade. You find it in the infobox at the end of the video or here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5qse3aMo8ymZ6c

[@user-ds6qf2mv1q]

Это вообще законно? С такой ручкой включения это больше не маленький станок, это полноценный промышленный взрослый большой агрегат! Супер!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

haha :D Thanks my friend!

[@joeylegaspi3515]

1:15 if accuracy is critical, using an indicator on the live/dead center would help :)

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Yes, I've seen that before. Here it was not super critical ;)

[@chucksmalfus9623]

Nice project, one observation, when using spiral flute taps you should not back them up while threatening, they are designed mostly blind holes and pull the chips out while cutting, backing up breaks the chip and interrupts the ejection of the chip, could cause binding and breaking.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! When I am afraid of breaking the tap as it gets to strong, I back up the taps. But yes, M8 shouldn't break so fast... :)

[@therealemmpunkt]

Zum Härten: Man schreckt auch nicht in Wasser ab, das geht nur bei sehr dünnen Sachen wie Nadeln oder ähnliches.Alles andere bekommt Spannungsrisse die man teilweise noch nicht einmal sieht. Nimm Pflanzenöl, irgendwas billiges, Rapsöl z.B...Raumtemperatur oder sogar vorgewärmt. Ansonsten: Klasse👌

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Danke für den Hinweis! In den Datenblättern und Berichten zu C45 Stahl stand immer Wasser zum Abschrecken. Aber im Nachhinein macht Öl natürlich viel mehr Sinn, hätte ich nach dem ersten Fehlversuch mal nachgedacht... Danke für den Tip! Werde das nächste Mal Rapsöl bereit halten :)

[@therealemmpunkt]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter Nun C45 ist jetzt vielleicht auch nicht die beste Wahl, kann man sowieso nicht durchhärten. Aber man nimmt halt was da ist ;) Wenn du dir was zum härten hinlegen willst, guck mal ob du in irgend nem Werzeugbau 2767 oder 2379 als Reststücke bekommst. Lässt sich gut auf einer kleinen Fräse bearbeiten und du bekommst es auch in der Hobbywerkstatt noch hart...

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

@@therealemmpunkt Als ich das Material besorgt hatte, wusste ich noch nicht, dass es gut wäre, das Teil später zu härten :) Danke für den Tip zu besser härtbaren Stählen. Ich schau, ob mir was über den Weg läuft :)

[@werschkowdennis6533]

Super 👍👍👍.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@kimber1958]

GREAT MOD

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@johnlocke9609]

Hello there! With a big resistor it can act as a clutch so you can stop the lathe with the same principal. Would be nice. But I bet I'll find a video where you already changed the motor to an AC servo.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Yes, I changed already to a brushless servo motor. You find the video on my channel.

[@grossinlionel253]

Why not put an AR and reverser on the manual control Bravo for your work.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

What is an AR? Unfortunately the controller doesn't allow a quick reverse for the spindle. You have to press a button.

[@Reman1975]

Interesting project. I'm looking at it and thinking it wouldn't take a whole lot to modify what you've built to also tug on a cable operated spindle brake when the levers raised past the off position. It would only take a stubby arm added to the hex rod, and a leather brake band type setup somewhere on the spindle, or maybe a setup like one side of bicycles "V brakes" and a profiled rubber block to rub against the spindle....... It would be totally unneccecery on a hobby lathe, but it would still be a pretty cool addon. :)

[@WireWeHere]

The controller he's using has an adjustable rate brake that may be able to function as a lock. I have the same drive but haven't gotten around to trying to create a lock signal. I use the brake set at 1 out of 5 on intensity so it just takes the coasting out. When at 5 it's slamming on the brake. A mechanical brake is still an option.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

As RJM said, you can set a electrical brake at the controller. At the moment I set it to off as it is relatively harsh even at 1 from 5 intensity ratings. But it's probably better to enable the brake again as it stops the spindle really fast in case of emergency. A mechanical brake would be usefull for cutting keyways or things like that. Here I need a solution to lock the spindle.

[@KW-ei3pi]

A very nice bit of engineering. Well done. Have you made a video about your background, mission statement, shop tour, etc.? Thanks.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you very much! I haven't done a video on that topic yet.

[@VanFlausch]

Just wow^^

[@MaximKachurovskiy]

Impressive work. Wonder if there's a simpler solution for the problem 🤔

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you! Off course, I think there are simpler options, but I'm happy with the one I choosed :)

[@wernerpfeifer]

Grandios!!!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Danke!

[@craigywaigy4703]

Really nice work. Your obviously running a VFD with RS485 interfacing - why bother with the electro mechanical switchgear that you made? A discrete 24v FWD/OFF/REV with pot driven speed control on the apron is far easier and more convenient(albeit both options are.vast overkill on an 18" screw cutting lathe). BTW Carriage mounted motor control was only popularly adopted(1960s).when discrete electronics. we're not available and manufacturer's wanted to do away with expensive mechanical clutches... Don't get stuck in the perception trap ie. trapped by old thinking/ technologies. Even better, try a footpeddle control - intuitive and natural in feel... and with emergency stop functionality too!

[@volodymyrsav1463]

good idea, great result, what solution was used to blacken the details?

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks! It is a cold bluing solution from Ballistol.

[@imlassuom]

Knife forger always heat then air cool... Heat then air cool x times; before the final water or oil quick cooling!!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Good to know.

[@mattlawless2136]

Try a normalizing cycle on prior to hardening.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for that tip! I means heating the part up and letting it slowly cool down again? To which temperature?

[@stevowhitty3984]

Much safer. It seems the original switch was very close to your elbow, while working at the chuck, very bad design. Only found your channel recently and loving all the improvements you are making to the lathe.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks for your comment! Yes the original switch was just temporarely mounted to the headstock by myself. That was a potentially dangerous configuration. With the new lever I'm very happy. It should be much safer against accidental start.

[@stevowhitty3984]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter only just watching that video now where you are changing the motor. And I recognise the switch. Didn't realise you mounted the switch there. I should really watch your videos in order.

[@backyardmachinist]

Nice! Just like a big lathe. Did you put your threading dial in a different spot?

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you! My lathe didn't have a threading dial. I think in the metric world it isn't so useful, but I didn't really understand how it works so far. Perhaps some day I need one and have to find a place to mount. But at the moment I have something different in mind for threading which should make a threading dial unneccessary.

[@backyardmachinist]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter Nice. I didn't know that about metric threading. Looking forward to what you come up with. Cheers

[@wolf310ii]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter The threading dial has nothing to do with metric or inch. If you cut a thread with a different pitch than the lead screw (on these small lathes usually 2mm) you need the dial to find the correct position to close the lead screw lock, if you open the lock to move the slide back. If you close the lock on the wrong position, you cut a double thread. On short threads the dial isnt that usefull, on long threads its faster to use the dial. But switchig the motor constantly between forward and reverse can kill it, my boss managed to do this. Instead of using the brake or going from forward to off, to reverse, he did go from forward right into reverse until the motor said "Nope, im done". The setscrews that hold the stator in the caseing sheered off, the stator rotated in the caseing and ripped all wires off

[@tsclly2377]

Ah.. and were is the head-stock brake? Anyway, the emergency On-Off button should be uses more often to prevent those little 'awakenings'... Install movable limit switch(es) when you do the brake. Me.. I'm installing a CNC conversion, but going to try to keep the manual function available.

[@navajo179]

Amazing stuff. My my what can I say?

[@AdamMaszynotwor]

Dobry patent :)

[@edfisher4881]

Great job would like to see drawings for this project

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks! I'm currently working on the drawings for this and planning to publish the drawings during the next days on my patreon site.

[@user-eu2xq1qf2q]

Ты молодец, но единственный вопрос. Зачем? Не проще было просто поставить кнопку?

[@1123pawel]

8:40 center drill your holes! You can see the hole is off center as you feed the reamer in and out of the hole.

[@NavinBetamax]

....sorry that I did not read your comment before posting mine about this just now.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Yes, don't know what went wrong here. Usually I use center drills first.

[@NavinBetamax]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter You got it wrong. THE REAMER was not centered to the drilled hole !

[@1123pawel]

@@NavinBetamax I was thinking that could also be the case.

[@ogaugeclockwork4407]

Nice work!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@phllint]

What brand of taps do you use. They look really sharp

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

It's a set from Ruko. "Maschinengewindebohrer" M3-M12 with pre-drills included.

[@estebanalgar3218]

Thanks. What about the reverse mode for the spindle?

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Hi, to reverse the spindle you have to press a button on the electronic controller. Unfortunately it is not possible to reverse the spindle directly with the new lever.

[@paulcotesr5623]

will this work on a grizzly 7 x 14" lathe ty

[@udayawanninayake3930]

Can you please tell me how did you change motor direction when you make thread

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Hi, for changing the motor direction, you have to press a button on the motor controller. That is not very convenient but I can't change this. There is a video on the channel about the sewing machine servo motor where this is demonstrated.

[@tluanem]

👍👍👍

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@older-wiser-better]

Very very 😊

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@kemet-son]

❤️❤️👌🏻

[@GeckoCycles]

Nice. What about the treading dial?

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks! I don't own a threading dial. I think for metric version a thread dial isn't that useful but I'm not really in to this subject.

[@MicaseHD]

What is the tap kit you are using?

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

RUKO M3-M12 set

[@LE-6920]

Are you used an Ar15 recoil spring? It's very similar...

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Had to look that up, I'm not in to weapons. No, bought the spring in a "Normteile"-shop :) Perhaps they use the same one otherwise, don't know.

[@pawekowalski7469]

Super Project, modification👍👍I wonder how to get around the vanishing switch in my lathe. PL: Zastanawiam się jak obejść w mojej tokarce włącznik zanikowy

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks!

[@pawekowalski7469]

I watch the movie again because I intend to do it in my cormak 330 x 700 and only now I noticed that the switch does not turn on the right and left speed, did you not want to do that? PL: Oglądam film już kolejny raz bo zamierzam w końcu zrobić to w mojej tokarce Cormak 330 x 700 i dopiero teraz zauważyłem że przełącznik nie włącza prawych i lewych obrotów, nie chciałeś tak zrobić?

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Hi and thanks for your comment! Yes that is right. The controller for the brushless motor has a button for switching the motor direction. I'm not experienced enough with electronics and don't wanted to change everything on the controller so I decided to install a lever on the bedslide for general on/off which has only one switching direction. To change the direction in which the motor starts you have to press the button on the controller box. I hope that makes some sense to you. I made a video on the brushless motor and controller where the direction change is explained.

[@pawekowalski7469]

@@WeCanDoThatBetter I do not know what the electronics in your lathe at a direct current engine, I probably watched the movie, I will come back to it, I have a 1 phase engine and in addition to such modification with the switch at the support I want to change the engine to a 3 phase and add inverter to smoothly adjust the turnover, although I have a gearbox in the spindle. I want to use the L-0-P rotary switch, link with similar modifications: Maybe it will be useful to you Ps. I am weak in electronics myself 😀😀 Nie wiem jaka jest elektronika w twojej tokarce przy silniku na prąd stały, film pewnie oglądałem, wrócę do niego, ja mam silnik 1 fazowy i oprócz takiej modyfikacji z włącznikiem przy suporcie chcę silnik zmienić na 3 fazowy i dołożyć falownik żeby płynnie regulować obroty, choć mam skrzynię biegów w wrzecionie. chcę wykorzystać przełącznik obrotowy L-0-P, link z podobnej modyfikacji: www.cnc.info.pl/przerobka-modyfikacja-nutol-tokarka-t6326-90.html Może przyda się tobie PS. Ja sam jestem słaby w elektronice

[@koriwright9135]

What make/model of Vertical Mill do you have?

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

It is a proxxon BFW 40E milling motor with a proxxon KT150 milling table.

[@bachtran5843]

you should have go with oil quench, water is too violent

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thanks, next time :) I've read water is recommended, but that was obviously not the best advice...

[@ACE-gk5gi]

. Wow what is it! What does it do! Naaaaaaaa it's great' 👍 LOL 😆 ya goofy m8te from Australia

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Thank you! :)

[@AJVAN_]

Why do you quench parts in water...that is the reason for the cracks

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

That's because I've read that C45 steel should be quenched in water. But that was definitely a fault. Next time I will definitely quench in oil instead of water.

[@xyzspec82]

That looks like an original part lol 🤓

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

I hope that is a good sign ;) Thanks!

[@mikegarwood8680]

Now that you've added what amounts to a separate drive shaft, the next logical step would be figure out how to make an actual power feed independent of the half-nut.

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Yes, I'm not quite sure yet, which way to go on the power feed thing.