Making A Mugler Inspired Jacket // Yellowjacket Silk Dupioni

[@lizzaturnbull]

Awesome! I also picked up a great tip from the Royal Ballet company in London - obviously tutus are not really washable but they are also getting sweated in regularly, so after every performance they spray the inside with a solution of Vodka and water which kills all the bacteria and keeps them fresh and not smelling! 🥰

[@lornadavis476]

Any idea of the ratio of codka to waster?

[@lornadavis476]

Sorry, water

[@lornadavis476]

Oh holy moly! Vodka to water!😊

[@kathleenburns7065]

For my ten faire garb when I was on the cast of one as my dresses were huge and hard to wash I think had a 1.5 water to 1 vodka ratio but make sure it’s not a flavored vodka. I think I also had a few drops of colorless lavender oil in mine as well, partly to make it smell nice but also to keep spiders away as it was an outdoor event and I didn’t want creepy crawlers hiding in my dresses.

[@CharredFibers]

I love it when you get to play with beads. You're so creative. Thanks for bringing this out of the vaults for us!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I really do love my time in the beads ✨🪡

[@debraking7412]

Hi Bianca, another beautiful jacket. Thanks patreons for letting us see the vault videos.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Debra!

[@martapaulson7685]

Not going to lie I would definitely buy merch that says ‘clip your curves’ in a death metal font!

[@tambriggs]

I love this jacket. Everything about it tickles me pink.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@DevonDowner]

i love the clothes you make so much. it really makes me want to make my own clothes too. i have started crocheting and knitting but sewing my own 1890s dress is very high up on my list thanks to your channel and your beautiful gothic and historical inspired garments. 🥰 thank you for all you do!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I wish I were better at knitting, one day maybe 😅

[@BookCat18]

❤ thanks for sharing the vault vids, all the patreon peeps rock! Another great project I can tell🎉

[@laurajones4088]

This jacket might just be my favorite thus far, until you come up with yet another spectacular design.. Love the beading and embellishments on the back! Bianca, thank you and your Patreon members for sharing this beauty.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Laura! I am strongly temped to do this kind of spine detailing on everything ✨

[@npdesign8202]

I recently came across a very nice Singer 99K sewing machine. I have a Singer 66 so I was reminded how nice and small the 99K is! Both are of course a pleasure to sew on! Thank you so much for showing us the making of your spectacular silk jacket!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Ah yes the 99k, a 20 lb "portable" version of the 66 🤣

[@waysonasth2803]

It's mesmerizing to see a lot of materials being worked on and transformed in a beautiful garment, your voice is also very soothing.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@rebeccasabourin6193]

Amazing as always. We need that merch. Death metal fount, clip your curves.

[@lynn858]

... I wonder if offering cut files for stuff like this, that fans could either cut on a cricut at home, a makerspace, or by hand - at whatever scale they prefer, and use as a sticker, iron on to a shirt they already have... could be a more sustainable way of doing fan merch, that B would feel more comfortable offering. She already has the files for cutting the iron on's she's designed available for free on her pintrest - because they should be enjoyed. It's probably a matter of whether it seems like fun to create. But that does seem like a fun design!

[@chermarano]

Thus jacket absolutely takes my breath away. I hope, when i grow up, that i can sew as well as you do. ps i'm 62

[@catzkeet4860]

It's good to have goals(I'm 61)

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I have lots of younger friends I want to grow up to be (almost 50). Age is mandatory, maturity, not so much.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

My grandson gets so upset when I tell him I haven’t decided what I want to be when I grow up lol

[@tiamatmichellehart6821]

So many buttons! I was literally staring at your *Cicada Day Bodice* while looking at this gorgeous jacket and can see the resemblance and modernization! I saved at least *five cicadas* this summer and think the design on the back is magnificent!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! As soon as I finished that bodice I knew I'd be using the spine detail on many more projects!

[@marisoldominguez438]

The back detail is so cool.

[@CeliaCase-q6z]

That silk dupioni is drool worthy. And the color is delicious. And your design work is, as always, stunning Bianca.

[@littlebat66666]

Damn i saw the cool 1981 famous black dress from Mugler (i believe it's called The vampire dress??) yesterday and now this? I guess i have to order some velvet really quick :D thank you for the video, it's great as always!! 🖤🦇

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Mugler is simply goals 🤩

[@joellewatkins5528]

Wow! Ann Rice Interview with a Vampire book was a sensation. This was my high school years.

[@marcco44]

you know Ms.B if i ever met you in person wearing this (or ANY of your work), i think i would just immediately start applauding👏👏👏

[@armedvsokord]

The atmospheric athletic is fun even if it wasn't intended. Another beautiful video.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@AuthenticWe]

Yasss gurl is slayin it 🎉❤🎉❤ and omg that attached collar and seam lines are a fantastic idea, and after 18 months of watching you, this reconstruction of seams is finally clicked

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@nerdaccount]

This is so amazing!!! Just breath taking! Thank you for sharing it!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@alisonc297]

Fabulous jacket...so beautifully furnished with the decorative back. Going to have to use a similar technique on some of my existing jackets for sure! ❤❤❤Alison

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Alison! I am always tempted to put this spinal decoration on everything ✨

[@lesleyharris525]

Beautiful jacket, love all the bead work, I'm always impressed by the design and detail you put into your work, a jacket and a piece of art in one. ❤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lesley!

[@elfieblue3175]

Thank you for showing the sleeve-steam puff technique.

[@Tisiloves]

Lovely. And gets me one step closer to sewing my own bar jacket

[@jldunn7791]

You're beading work really is so beautiful. You're a real artist and craftsperson.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@plushieangela]

Muglier's such a good pattern inspiration with such iconic angles and shapes

[@marieeaton-smith5168]

I always loved this the best too. You really did excel with this outfit - the design gods were surely with you that day.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Marie!

[@isabellefischer5145]

Totally awe-inspiring. It also encourages me to try to do some creative sewing myself... Thanks for sharing!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Isabelle!

[@vickit419]

It is almost spooky time! Your videos are my fav as fall arrives. They just feel right.

[@michellecornum5856]

I have watched this a few times. I'm not done. I think I need a few more times. I think my brain is trying to memorize this jacket. Or maybe I'm trying to become one with it. It's gorgeous!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Michelle!

[@jakimcmurdo4810]

Love this jacket it’s so detail orintated you look so stunning in it !😁🇬🇧❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jaki!

[@barbf9168]

Ooooo! Ahhhh! A true clothing artist! Thank you for sharing your process. ❤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Barb!

[@jenchan4817]

When I do appliqués like the cicadas, I sew all the way around the perimeter and then after trimming the seam allowance, I just make a slit in the lining/backing in the middle of the appliqué to turn it right-side out.

[@archiecat4182]

I love everything about this ❤❤❤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@holzlastname1976]

I had seen this fabric and thought of you❤. I was actually browsing fabric I can afford(especially because I want it all lol)

[@sewPamela]

Absolutely stunning. You are so creative and patient with your work. I love it and thank you for sharing your design.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Pamela!

[@thomasfoley8287]

Absolutely gorgeous!!😍

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Thomas!

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Glad this found its way out of the vault. Thanks for all you do!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@karengoldie6801]

This is stunning on you. I love watching you create!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Karen!

[@Hippiechick11]

I love this fabric so much! I hope your house hunt is going well.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@mandycollins8795]

Absolutely stunning!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Mandy!

[@mariontilton8494]

Absolutely amazing. Love the style and the beading is fantastic.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Marion!

[@dellymel9840]

Beautiful jacket. I love the detail on the back.x

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@aitcheymoo]

Gorgeous

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@gavannapatterns353]

Oh so beautiful! Lately I've been into this yellow or chartreuse tones ( probably because of you!) so this was very inspiring 💛💛💛💛. Unfortunately these colours are really hard to find in fabric stores here. Anyway, the absolute best is of course the back decoration, amazing!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I have always found good acidic-but-also-fall-leaves tones of chartreuse super hard to get ahold of 🤩

[@paintingwithnicole]

aaaa absolutely stunning work as ever! that jacket was a particular favorite of mine, so glad i got to see the process video!! love love love your jacket videos in general haha, they look so structured and hard but you make it all sound so simple!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@magdagrif]

Radioactive honey😂 love it!

[@damogranheart5521]

Most Excellent!

[@deborahhouse9569]

Breath taking!

[@mandylavida]

Oh my I love that fabric. Love this jacket, Bianca! Prefer it to the inspiration piece.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! This fabric is bonkers level good 🤩

[@debrahighfill9061]

thumbnail caught my eye...totally in awe.. new subscriber

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Debra!

[@crys452]

Absolutely gorgeous! Love your set design too!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! This was a fun set for sure ❤️

[@dairyfairy7777]

Beautiful as usual x

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@SandieMitchell]

😍😍😍Absolutely STUNNING!😍😍😍

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sandie!

[@tiffanytomasino335]

I work at a honey shop so you'd be very on theme with this honey-toned suit if a bit fancier than we usually get 😅 Thanks for sharing!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I do like some fancy honey 🐝

[@annepahler8726]

Absolutely stunning. Thank you for sharing.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Anne!

[@alexyarally]

This is really impressive, For lighter support material I fuse linen canvas it presses really well after if you don't want to use a fusible interfacing (all the luxury brands use fusible interfacing in their products very few do canvas)

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! A lightweight linen does sound nice and crispy ✨

[@rumfluff1130]

Love this xxx

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@jeremiahc1356]

Incredible! Having watched you for a while now, you have demystified pattern making. I can't describe the change in experience from drafting my own patterns vs. following a pattern - so thankful. Question, that perhaps you addressed and I missed, why the choice to leave a waist seam instead of making the "peplum" all in one like the inspiration?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! You can see in the close up for the Mugler at kzbin.info/www/bejne/e57Wqp19g6qBotEsi=UeNkAHXwfxmMSIsE&t=607 that the side bits of their peplum do have a waist seam as well. The curvier the waist seam, the more annoying it is to eliminate. I talk about this about minute 10-11 ish in the video. Often the theory of layering things closed, like in books or examples, does not match the practical of working around a real human with particular proportions. If I were working with a standardized (small) sized block, it would often be easier to layer the waistline shut, but I'm a larger gal with a large bust-to-waist-to-hip ratio going on, I need that waist seam. The more vertical sections of princess seaming you add, the easier it is to eliminate the waist seam though! So for this design, over the flatter section of waist seam, aka the center front, I eliminated it like the Mugler, but I also left the waist seam on the sides an the back. It's just easier and provides a desired definition for someone with a body like mine, where there is a naturally distinct pinch at the waist to work with.

[@jeremiahc1356]

@@TheClosetHistorian Thank you for the detailed and gracious reply - I must admit, I was watching while working, obviously I missed some of the details and explanations 😅But the further explanation was informative in general as to why eliminating the waist seam is not always practical!

[@charlieharley616]

Stunning!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Charlie!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I'm starting to use that "puff sleeve" cheat after having done a couple on purpose :) Just stunning. I really need to try some extremely peplummy peplums to pretend that I have hips! But I've been focusing on other things like swimsuits and mending lately. I think if I did anything this flared I'd also add a pleat or two in the side pieces, just so I look a bit less cylindrical.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I come a bit pre-peplumed myself 😂

[@anastasiiapavlova3050]

Stunning

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@h.3091]

I love love LOVE it when you do projects isnpired by haute couture.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@MargaretHSmith-tf6kv]

You are very inspiring.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Margaret!

[@annlidslot8212]

Hi, Thanks for reminding me of this jacket again. It's as stunning now as last time around. I hope you've had that you've had the opportunity to wear it out. I also hope you come back with good news. You've earned that along time ago so it's just a matter of time. I hope you're better with patience than I am, though, cause it's not my strongest sport. Yours, Ann

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Ann!

[@jennglow4647]

Very pretty 😀

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jenn!

[@allangradus1917]

The bottom of the jacket is called the skirt. If you have a fuller circular part with a waist seam it is called a peplum

[@kathleennewton9854]

Ah yes September ... time to break out the knitting projects and watch TCH videos until April

[@WatchedPlot]

I was making a new medieval kirtle and as I was doing the bodice it was like a voice came out of the ether, "Clip your curves!" and I did and it looked much better

[@iloveapiano6542]

21:55 question! Are those scissors the Ninjas go - "Don't touch my fabric scissors" scissors? I'm sitting here with mine and they look identical...

[@mysettingsmysettings2997]

What kind of scissors are you using??❤

[@Addicted2Yarn1]

WOW WOW WOW!!!!!

[@clairewulf]

this is such a pretty jacket! you mentioned before that your bodice block doesn't fit you as well now as it used to -- did you ever make another bodice block, or are you going to? it would be very cool to see you redo your bodice block video having grown so much in the last few years

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I kinda like my bodice block a little on the tight side, or rather, I don't mind that my clothes are a little tight 😅

[@damogranheart5521]

Thank you and your generous patrons for sharing this beautiful tutorial!🖖🍁🥧🎃✨️📚🫖🪡🐈‍⬛

[@cynthiadugan858]

❤

[@skirtedgalleons]

Yeah, this rocks. I have so much fun following your creative journey. I've been meaning to throw this out there for a bit: I am obsessed with a fashion plate (drawn by André-Edouard Marty) of a Georges Doeuillet dress design, from Gazette du Bon Ton, No. 1, January 1921. It's an afternoon dress "suitable for dancing", possibly a wrap or faux wrap, with a wide obi-like self belt. I love the way the sides of the skirt are raised and show the lining, but I can't figure out how it would be patterned. A description says it is made of black taffeta with a petticoat in plaid silk taffeta and a dickie/modesty panel in white embroidered linen. The image (with a cute dog in it) comes up if one searches for Hop La! - Robe pour danser l'après-midi, de Doeuillet [Jump! - Afternoon Dress for Dancing, by Doeuillet] If you are ever up to return to the early 1920s but for a dress with a bit of shape (not a boxy one), I'd be so interested to see how you pattern it.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! That dress looks like it has pleats at the waist seam (which itself is of course hidden by the sash-ish waist belt area thing) and then the hem is just shaped as desired to me. I would copy it by making a mock up, drawing on the desired hem shape with a marker, cutting the mock up to check, and then transferring the new hem onto the pattern piece ✂️

[@skirtedgalleons]

@@TheClosetHistorian Thank you!

[@judithdutton4631]

I put the sleeve in before I sew the side seams,( unless it is a two part sleeve). Have you tried it this way? I find it much easier. Same result.

[@annazann7236]

Have you ever made a princess seems block, or really start from basic block for every project?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I use a slightly different line each time, so I have no need for a princess block. I select the exact style line (the angles, up into the shoulder--or the neck--or the armscye...) for each individual design. I also try to start from the basic block as much as possible for demonstration purposes, as I teach pattern drafting ✨

[@creepycutiecrafty]

I love the detailing down the spine, the cicadas looks gorgeous - but I’d imagine the sequins would be uncomfortable if you we sitting in a hard backed chair? Or do the layers of fabric act to cushion them? One of these days you’ll shock us all with a hot pink and powder blue lining for one of your creations! 🤣 I’m thinking it would be more Gene Wilder’s Willy Wonka than Barbie doll though… Amazing video. The shape of the jacket it so beautifully done

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I suppose I have never found a sequin uncomfortable, but in something like this I would be more inclined to sit up straight anyway. Silk is not for lounging in my wardrobe 😅✨

[@creepycutiecrafty]

@@TheClosetHistorian I know what you mean! And honestly, your poise definitely matches the outfit!

[@auntheidi9389]

In death metal font: 1. I sew over my pins. Deal with it!!!! 2. Clip your curves!!!! 3. Tape your floops... or else!!!

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

I want those on t-shirts!! And yea I sew over my pins!

[@amb163]

Lovely as always! I hope I can afford silk someday, lol! Question: which Uniqlo shirts do you wear?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! They have a line called AIRism that I was getting, little thin tee shirts, but now they don't have the same exact ones currently which is a bummer!

[@mz.c.3729]

❤❤❤

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

No put it on a t-shirt! That would be so fun and might help some of us meet sewing people!!! Because I’m old I have no idea what death metal font looks like but I’m in! Oh another thing I can’t hear any of the background noise you complain about. Wow that’s so stunning!! I love the inspiration and your interpretation. They are both amazing!! I completely understand your complaining about an hour glass shape. My daughter has one as well. She once had to deal with an annoying busybody who was sure she was wearing a corset and tight lacing!! Some people really need to get a hobby or a brain!

[@jnl.]

what does "fell down" mean?

[@catzkeet4860]

To stitch down with small whip stitches, usually done taking only a few threads so it won't show on the right side. It's usually used in relation to a hem or a seam allowance.

[@yobespierre]

i was taught that the part of a jacket under the waist seam that you call a peplum, is called a skirt.

[@alexandracadet-ym3mk]

[@rik4754]

It’s kind of giving 1890s to me

[@sherrillsturm7240]

Really, really, pretty, and not even my favorite colors.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!