Making a Smarter Shower Door

[@hawawa6884]

There's a cool way to replicate the profile of that handle that I saw in a restoration video. Essentially, the reference handle is mounted on the tailstock, and the toolpost is set with a parting blade (to cut the stock) and another pointy tool parallel to it. The pointy tool doesn't actually cut, but simply acts as a stop against the reference handle. That leaves you with a rough shape in steps that can be filed down, much like that technique of dividing the curve into rectangles, but without actually having to draw and calculate those rectangles

[@hamish7759]

You can also do it with an indicator instead of the “pointy tool” to give a visual guide

[@michaelbirmingham4111]

After a stroke that affected my ability to immediately visualize a verbal or written three dimensional comment. This is why I religiously follow Quinn and her commenting viewers is for the mental exercise to repair the brain damage. Thank you so much all of you.

[@chrissibersky4617]

Wow! 😲

[@tkat6442]

I would call the pointy tool a stylus. If the stylus and the cutting tool are shaped identically, the subsequent cleanup of the steps would be minimized, especially if the stylus/cutting tool shape fits well into every contour of the larger shape. Great idea!

[@adamthethird4753]

@@fuzzy1dk now that's thinking with portals!

[@azlandpilotcar4450]

Looking forward to the series featuring the rest of the chess set! Good episode!

[@atheistsfightclub6684]

I was thinking the same thing =)

[@grilnam9945]

@@atheistsfightclub6684 especially when you swap out white delrim for black, that or you blue the black pieces

[@beeman1885]

Exactly what I thought - one side brass and one side stainless (or aluminum). Good opportunity for a lesson on how to duplicate profiles on multiple parts without a CNC. Love the video.

[@SethKotta]

I'm a simple person. I see a Blondihacks video, I Like it.

[@ron827]

"Happiness is the summation of a lot of little things." ~ Quinn Dunki VERY profound. As a hobby machinist myself, it does not make any difference if no one else sees it, I also strive for perfection. Not only do I learn something about machining in each of your videos but also expand my vocabulary. "detritus"

[@prodoverjeff2876]

What Quinn call detritus is more commonly called a teat. In a shop with just guys, they are called something similar. Quinn is being polite!

[@TheStuartstardust]

@@prodoverjeff2876 please do share? As a foreigner I feel left out. Cultural exchange is important - especially for the fun stuff 😁😉

[@cyrucom]

She's the Bob Ross of machining

[@Tom-yc8jv]

@Blondihacks I did that EXACT same thing for my glass shower door about 15 years ago, and let me give you a WARNING! All it took was my wife sliding open the outside door, to get a towel, and the inside glass shattered from the force on the knob getting pushed by the outer door even with a silicon ring around it!!! After many stitches and healing time, she took a LONG time to start talking to me again....

[@yowie0889]

@@ChristopherHallett Christopher, I recall seeing your name pop up in the comments of The Skid Factory and Fullboost. Clearly you are a gentleman of exceptional taste in KZbin channels.

[@joeybobbie1]

That turned out Great Quinn. I like the idea of the Delren meeting the Glass.

[@MAACotton]

After all these years I never thought to flip the die over so you can snug right up to a shoulder. You're always teaching me new things!

[@KenWmo]

Here is a trick learned from the wood lathe. When you want to duplicate a shape, make a “negative” template, out or card stock or thin plywood, that matches the shape of the original. You can make the template as accurate as you want. A light under the part will show where the high spots are when you hold the template to the part. You can also put something like blueing ink or lipstick on the template to indicate the material to be removed.

[@art3803]

I think you killed it Blondihacks! Job well done!

[@RonCovell]

Quinn - I really enjoyed this diversion from the usual content of your videos. I think we all have some annoying little 'home' projects, and it's great to see you you approached this one!

[@emilyselwood6456]

The little things that make so much difference. One of the things that I'm most happy I've 3d printed are some little feet for my microwave to raise it up a little. The door used to catch on the edge of the sink, not enough to stop it but enough to make a clank. Now it is a few mm higher it clears the sink and doesn't make a clunk every time I open it. Blissful. May you smile every time you open the shower door. 🙂

[@OneCupOfCoffee204]

I like how you change your world to fit you instead of the other way around.

[@pesterenan]

I'd say that you result is really good! As you said you don't have much experience with stainless but even so, for copying a piece "by eye" its really good!

[@michaelpaul9611]

Quinn, I have a 57 Chevy that I restored. I polished 110 pieces of stainless trim! I filed out the scratched, sanded with 220, 320, 600 grit, then polished with stainless compound, medium compound then red rouge. It comes out like a mirror! BTW, I have the same machines. That's how I found your channel. Enjoy your content.

[@chumbuddy100]

Yes, but the one with the most tools at the end, wins! Thanks for another cool video for us amateur machinist wannabes.

[@davidmcinnes317]

Making a ball turning attachment would be a great side project for the winter months.

[@qnner]

One that does convex and concave shapes.

[@briandeschene8424]

Quinn: This video needs to be added to the same playlist as your video on TV wall hanging!

[@jimsvideos7201]

Parting stainless with the part and the tool that far out is indeed a feat. Thank you for making Saturdays an extra treat!

[@cwmd7651]

I would love to see a machining around the house series!

[@brianspurrell3348]

Great video. Nice to have you back in Canada. Hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoy you being here.

[@daveys]

This type of project is one of my favourite kind. Solving an annoying problem with engineering or tech. It’s not super-complex but it makes you think, use your skills, solves your problem and inspires others. Perfect!

[@stuartkorte1642]

Interesting little project. That Gearwrench handle set has been a game changer on my tapping abilities

[@saschamarr495]

I am a gunsmith in my fourth and final year of school in Austria, thanks for your videos! I always keep your videos on while studying and sketching. You have helped me a lot. You Rockstar!

[@paulkinzer7661]

I know that, for me, every time I opened that shower door, even until the end of time, I would get a warm feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction. Making things that I use regularly, especially when I challenge my skills/knowledge, gives repeated 'pings' of contentment. So well done!

[@henrikskott]

We love you, Sparkle spanner!

[@MartysRandomStuff]

I use my 3D printer and my mini-lathe all the time to make stuff like this for around the house. Most of the time it's to replace a part that has broken, but sometimes for new items like this. It is slowly paying back the cost of the machines, each little plastic part that costs me practically nothing in material and a little time in FreeCAD usually costs $10 to buy.

[@jasonm.7358]

Arthur C Clarke was right. One of the reasons I enjoy watching your videos is that, having no experience with machining myself, what you do looks like absolute magic! Even though my dad was an NC programmer so I knew a machinist or two… it fills me with happiness to watch. I hope all is going well at the new location.

[@frattman]

Great job using the plastic integrated into the handle as a buffer - it looks like it worked like a charm! BTW, the tempered glass doesn't crack, it shatters, and unexpectedly so (as in an intense impulse on a very small area). I had one slip off of a track once while I was installing it and it happened quicker than I could remember and it was loud. Anyway, It did it's job and I honestly could have cleaned it up with bare hands. I'm pretty confident that you engineered your way around that happening though!

[@krbuck]

Lol. That intro is so spot on.

[@Deckzwabber]

I think dying in a pile of tools, especially self-made, is a good way to go.

[@Smallathe]

Not an excuse but the best home item ever I've made was a whisk. The chinesium stuff rusts and breaks down rather fast. Door handles, small wood pots and bowls (yes, on a metal lathe) and bathroom handles are also a super fun lathe/mill project. Lovely video!!!

[@1911wood]

I think Quinn works on solving the worlds problems when taking a shower. Good for her 😊

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

I come here for your wit! I'm not disappointed!

[@rpavlik1]

I will second the recommendation on that thread checker. I'm not a quarter as serious as you, but I am still super thankful I picked one up. Not too expensive either. Has saved a number of things where a bolt got lost or broken or...

[@johnmcclain3887]

I love your description of "death by tools". The who dies with the most tools, wins, my mom always told. Of course, delrin sounds cool when parting it off, too! It's always a pleasure to make a part that gets rid of a minor annoyance that repeats every day.

[@dalevalentine1721]

I had to go check my shower - the holes around the edge of the plug are for an elongated D-Ring that flips tight to the glass and slides between the 2 panes. We have a similar setup to yours, with a towel bar on both panels. There is one D-Ring on the inside and one on the outside. Depending on which panel you want to move, you either grab the towel bar or the D-Ring.

[@lightmechanic2370]

Great vids. Don't ask me how I know this... As a secondary precaution to avoid shattering, consider adding a small plastic bumper on the edge of the glass the handle comes in contact with. Your conical handle can meet the beveled corner of the glass with just a little bending of the glass while it's used. As you know but some commenters may not, tempered glass is very tough on the flat but super hyper sensitive on the edge.

[@fullmetalpenguin]

One of my favorite “home improvement”machining projects is making refrigerator magnets from 1/2” brass, aluminum, and Delrin rod stock and 5/16” neodymium magnets. They make great gifts for family and friends; unlike most fridge magnets, these actually *work*, and nobody has too many refrigerator magnets.

[@danarbuckle6640]

Your episode was packed with tips and wisdom. Thanks for clarifying cut depth, e.g. "20 thou pass, 10 thou depth of cut".

[@cameraforchristmas]

I loved the part where you used the gear wrench ratcheting tap thing. Wonderful! Ordering one immediately.

[@James02876]

That glass will never crack, but it you hit it hard enough on the edge, it will explode, since it's likely tempered glass. Very smart design to use delrin to absorb any shock

[@lisag2771]

Love the idea of Machining around the home. My first project on my new lathe were some brass jets for my bbq pit. Couldn’t find them anywhere so I gave it a go and they worked. 🎉. I use the Anchor Lube per your recommendation on stainless. It was a game changer for me. Thanks Quinn ❤

[@kevinsellsit5584]

I'm glad you had fun with the stainless. Stainless steel is my favorite material for making parts/tools that I will use a lot. From dice to engine brackets to anything that needs to be pretty Stainless-Steel rocks! I like stainless because I can make very complex shapes, combine sheet and lathe work into a single invisible welded 1-piece product that you have to really scratch your head as to how it was made. How, you ask? Stainless welds as easy as steel with my MIG. No need to TIG. I can remove and replace material on a given part quickly, grind sand and polish and repeat until you are amazed at how that part was made. 1-piece complex shape parts that look impossible. P.S. I honestly didn't expect to have "shower time with Quinn" today, but I had a good time.

[@kensherwin4544]

Freehanded just like us woodturners would do it. Keep this "Machining around the House" series up and you'll find yourself being a woodturner yet. 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[@OuroborosArmory]

Matching shapes is a learned skill.. I teach my students all the time. So if your going to do this a lot, you will get the eye for it

[@kencarlile1212]

In answer to your not-quite-a-question, yes! This video made me happy! Your videos have become an end of the night Saturday night tradition for me, and they're much appreciated!

[@byronhaley1566]

A couple of the first projects I made with my mini lathe was a new handle for a kitchen large bottle brush because the cheap plastic handle broke, and a replacement roller for the wire cheese cutter. The orginal roller was made of Aluminum, which corrodes in the dishwasher. Both of these were made out of scrap stainless. The very first project was to repair a plastic guide roller in a 2008 toyota sienna sliding door. That repair usually costs about a $1000 for the dealer to repair because they replace the entire door control mechanism for a 10 cent part broke. The part I made for the door will probably never break again. This is a common failure on these sliding van doors.

[@Bigredkarl]

Send the company your idea

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

I've got a Honda Odyssey with TWO bad sliding doors. Lots of people do. It's a bad design.

[@jebowlin3879]

@17:12 as an artist I can tell you, as long as you like it, its good enough, you have to live with it

[@knickebien1966]

Quinn's new shop is looking very spacious and clean, so it is fair to demand a productivity increase...

[@joedyhicks9415]

Hi Quinn Have you ever considered designing and making a spring loaded DIE follower that functions like a tap follower ? A tap follower serves to keep pressure on a tap and keep it running concentric with the work but I have found that when we use a stock and die we often allow a gap to develop between the die stock and the face of the drill chuck or tailstock spindle. What do you think ? Is there a need for such a tool ? Would make a very interesting project and construction video.

[@cooperised]

From experience, once a die has started properly it really doesn't want to wander. My theory is that this is because a tap wrench acts a long way back from where the cutting is happening, which means that off-axis forces applied by the wrench become large torques at the cutting edge. A die wrench acts right where the die is, so off-axis forces just act straight on the part.

[@rogerpetrella5993]

What an influence watching your videos has been. I was watching another machining video where the guy was facing off a piece and found myself thinking "facing off the piece as is tradition"!!! LOL

[@RobertBrown-lf8yq]

Hi Quinn, Great SS challenge… and you did it in your usual quiet, professional manner. Great that you include ‘mistakes’, because that is an essential part of teaching ( IMHO). Love your work Regards Robert

[@mikebashford8198]

What a fantastic verb - EtchASketch!

[@thesavage6484]

Here’s a tip! I love to use the orange foam nail buffer cubes, you can find them on Amazon and they work tremendously well on any metal. The trick is to move it around to get rid of any steps on the metal. Then run your machine fast and hold the buffer pad down in one position at a time to nearly polish the metal

[@onmymind3630]

Hi Qinn. When grinding or polishing round items, i usually use a cordless drill to hold the item, and let it spin slowly. It evens out any crocked spot at the design.

[@johncooper4637]

You were lucky with the stainless. I tried drilling what I think was a 400 series plate and it literally melted the bit! I have made a number of shafts from 304 and it machines very well. I have lost track of all the things I have made for the house, car, etc. on my lathe and mill. The best trick was making a replacement center for an 18" diamond saw blade that had gotten wallowed out for one of the rock club's saws. I often use my lathe to make special washers for various things.

[@KimbrellBrad]

It is always nice to make something for the home...my wife loves these simple projects. And if I'm honest I would much rather make the part on a Saturday night rather than waiting until Monday to go out and buy it! Lots of good tips in here as well. Thanks!

[@Unknown15916]

I agree. That is a good way to go !

[@Ioughtaknowbetter]

Anytime I need a radius I find it much easier to use a carbide radius Mill. I have a small selection of different radius. They all have a weldon notch in the shank, and if you put one of the clamp screws in the weldon notch (at least on my set) the flat Edge of the cutter is at exactly the correct orientation. And you can rotate your aloris style tool holder to work the radius around and into difficult locations. Great project!

[@gbspikyfish]

For the buffing stage at 20:50, I find chucking the item up in a drill driver is really useful, as you can spin the part against the wheel so it's easier to get an even finish. Not that I've had the courage to try turning stainless yet though ;)

[@robertpearson8798]

You can make some very nice practical things with hobby machine tools. I recently milled a coffee table and end tables from chunks of 303 stainless so they won’t show rings if someone fails to use a coaster. Next, I’ve promised my Wife I’d have a go at making a cocker spaniel or perhaps a corgi in honour of the Queen’s passing.

[@branchandfoundry560]

Your drill bit emery form is great! Rigid foam insulation makes great odd shape sanding blocks that conform with use to any object they're pressed against. Learned that assisting an airplane builder a couple years ago--they have tons of great tricks!

[@williammundy2704]

To copy items such as the knob on the lathe I have a Starrett 6” outside round leg spring caliper. It can be used even with lathe running to see if measured dimension is good , it easily slips over the OD when cut to correct size. You do such interesting content, always look forward to your next installment.

[@FullSendPrecision]

I part stainless all the time - I feel like it hardens easily... I always start with a fresh hone on a cobalt blade... Keep it oiled and keep the feed/pressure consistent.

[@cooperised]

Yep most grades of stainless work-harden quite easily. I do the same as you, though actually I often use the power feed - sounds like madness but it's a good way to get that consistent chip and no rubbing.

[@mikebruner5224]

I use Anchor lube for my job, I cut it with Windex, some thin enough for a spray bottle and some just enough to brush on. It also helps with the smell, it's still there but not so bad.

[@matspatpc]

I've fixed a few things like that. I have new handles on my tin opener, because the original plastic ones broke - spent £5 (approx US$ 7) on stainless steel, broke a tap which was only a cheap one, but £12 (US $15-20) for a good new set of M4 taps. But it was fun to do!

[@darrinswanson]

Sprocket wants you to buy more treats!

[@susan_beaver]

Terrific stuff! I've been sharing your videos with my dad who has been doing tinkering and home machining my entire life, and he suggested wet silicon carbide sandpaper instead of the emery paper to take tool marks off stainless. He also said that in his experience carbide tool inserts will shrug off the work-hardening. Great work on a nice little quality of life improvement!

[@walt5797]

Nice one Quinn. My lathe cost me $2000 25 years ago and in that time it has paid it self off many many times by fixing thing around the house.

[@Kolokotrones]

Radius turning attachments are great for jobs like this. A great tool to be made for the lathe.

[@UnitSe7en]

The delrin insert is very clever.

[@dragade101]

@14:47 I like to copy compound curves by making a 2D (negative) profile template of your final curve (this can by hand drawn or rendered in illustrator/photoshop/etc), then you can be carful what segment you are cutting to. Maybe your 2nd and 3rd measurement had some misalignment to previous measurements and it was harder to track the exact slice that was being measured and located to (even if you have a reference surface to locate your existing part and the new stock). Since this part is 100% aesthetics, its ok to make something purely by eye and not worry about being slightly elongated or having an incorrect OD (that its ok to have a larger OD so your final filing can reduce the OD to looks than to the micrometer).

[@kennethelwell8574]

I like Tap Magic Extra Thick for stainless steel, it’s a bit like honey, and doesn’t run or boil away like thinner fluids seem to. When it becomes hot it thins but still hangs around. Haven’t tried the Anchor lube yet, but they’re neighbors on the shelf.

[@ToBeeOrNotToBeHoney]

Love it, I have built a lot of around the hose stuff to justify my 3d printers and one or two items from the machine shop. One of the things I built was a new knob for the bathtub stopper...

[@DavidKutzler]

303 Stainless is my favorite material in my hobby machine shop. With a little practice and patience, you can get a near mirror finish. The filing is important. I rough out the tool marks with a medium toothed flat file and then use a very fine-toothed flat file. I then go to a set of diamond files and end with 1000 to 1200 grit emery paper. This will give you a satin-like finish, which polishes real well with the Scotchbrite wheel and finally the cloth wheel with polishing compound. My most recent project was making a tap wrench out of 303 stainless modeled after the Starrett tap wrench. I got a beautiful finish. P.S., When you die, the one with the most tools wins.

[@KeritechElectronics]

Wow, the die holder is just lovely and looks really practical. I never saw a ratchet one. Nice handle :)

[@alanwilliamson2259]

Your buffing wheel may be improved by cutting the first row of stitching to open out/soften it's face. Many years ago during my apprenticeship we were also constantly reminded that less compound is better.... Light application of cutting/buffing compound more often rather than heavy coat. We were also severely reprimanded for mixing cutting and buffing compound on the same mop. Thoroughly enjoy your videos, always a pleasure to watch, and hope your new home goes well for you and Sprocket. Many thanks

[@bostedtap8399]

Possibly create a profile via screen image and trace it, or print off, or insert it into F360, nice job Quinn 👍 Thanks for sharing.

[@anthonymarino4260]

got a mill for my shop. had some patio doors at the house. installed about a week afterwards the pot metal key way broke. went to the shop found a piece of scrap metal milled a new keyway works really nice

[@nickhenscheid369]

Nice, I love this concept. This is pretty much what I use my shop for. Mark Presling does a lot of cool "home hardware" projects, too.

[@Blondihacks]

Preso is the best 😀

[@colinselby2405]

When I want to make a tear drop handle. I take a Bridgeport handle and I mock it up in the tail stock and cut steps in it like how you cut a key 🔑

[@kathleenfoster9887]

I too find theses kind of jobs are very satisfying to work with. I was able to stiffen up the legs for my wife’s shower seat using my hobby she was very happy with it and I was happy with how it turned out.Thanks for doing you project and sharing it.

[@vaalrus]

“You go to fix something, then you’re modifying a tool, then you’re building a tool to make a tool, and before you know it, you’re out in the back yard chipping flint…” -the great Canadian philosopher, Lorne Elliot.

[@MikeGranby]

Excellent. A step up from those home machinery magazines that have five articles on making accessories for your shop, and if you’re lucky, one on making a steam engine…

[@H2Dwoat]

Hi, I have seen woodworking lathes with ‘duplicators’ to reproduce shapes. Can you get or make a similar thing for a metal working lathe?

[@windsoruk]

You can - they are a variation on taper turning attachments - can be very useful in some circumstances. Perhaps a project video to make a taper turning / duplicating attachment would be fun for Quinn....?

[@eliduttman315]

Look into Keith Fenner's collection of videos. The collection contains several examples of him using his Clausing lathe's hydraulic tracer attachment.

[@PeriodWoodworker]

I just found your channel and have been binge watching you stuff. Subscribed! Thank you for sharing, Steve

[@josephalexander3884]

I believe Mark Pressling answer this question recently. He made some beautiful wall sconces for his wife in their bedroom. Yes you can use machine tools to make items for the home. I always look foreword to Saturday. Your videos are very helpful for me. Thank you.

[@KennyEaton603]

I do curves on smaller decorative parts like that watchmaker style, with hand-held tools and a woodworking type tool rest. Brass and aluminum I just chuck up in my wood lathe most times. You do need to be careful to stay on center height with the tool. Carbide tooling made for woodworkers actually works well for this in a lot of cases, as it’s sharp. Unlike metalworking inserts that have a radius on the cutting edge.

[@GilgaFrank]

I click LIKE as soon as these videos start. I never have to amend my decision.

[@norwegiangadgetman]

I have roller blinds on some of my windows(real cheap ones), and the 'bar' at the bottom is just an aluminium tube with a slot for the fabric. So it flutters and knocks about if the window is open and there's any wind at all. And worst of all, when it flutters about it lets in light! So I made brass discs to fit on the end of the tube to weigh them down. Just 10mm thick 30mm diameter discs. Cut them off the bar stock with a hacksaw, use my mill and a rotating table and a chuck to face them, then a 1mm end mill to cut a circular groove to fit the tube into, then used a rounding endmill to pretty up the edges, and gave them a good polish. (This was before I got my lathe)

[@stuartholden2652]

Great video. This is the first time I've watched one of your videos. One trick to both speed up the final shaping and finishing is to put a threaded stud in a drill and run it against the rotation of your buffing wheel. You'll get a much higher surface speed to work with and have a good hand hold to manipulate your part with. You'll have to keep an eye on the temperature of your part with the delrin insert, it would be a shame to melt your work piece. I also would have gone further with a courser grit paper first to get the machining marks out. Then go step by step to finer and finer grit sanding paper before starting the polishing.

[@terrytopliss9506]

When I was doing mould polishing it was very well stated by the tool room polisher to not cut corners with whatever abrasives we were using or it would cost more time to go back. Nice job though Quinn.👍👍

[@tonysheerness2427]

When I was an engineer putting things right out in the field costs 100 times more than in the factory, plus the stain on ones reputation which is uncountable.

[@sheldon...]

"Help, I'm drowning in tools!" Said no engineer, ever 🤓 I'll have a storage problem before I have a tool problem (well, beyond not being able to afford *all* of them)

[@backyardmachinist]

Looking forward to a "machining around the house" series... The analog method to make this complex part is fun to watch, but would be easier on a CNC lathe as you know. On that note, have you ever considered getting into CNC with small machine tools like the ones Taig or Sherline makes? I'd love to see that sort of content from someone like you who has such great instructional ability. Great video!

[@davidapp3730]

My wife has a cell phone mount for her cell phone and the suction clamp assembly is plastic. Several of them have broken so I replaced the last one with a home made assembly made from aluminum. Works great.

[@natiusvanderwatt3309]

@Quinn Might this work: print out a silhouette of the shape 3-4x the size and put on the way cover below, inline and halfway to the back end of he bed. Squinting at it over the part to judge the difference in curves.

[@Jacksparrow4986]

Upvoting the idea of the series. Thank you!

[@dragade101]

@18:24, are you using 320 or 400 grit paper? I'll start with

[@andrewnaylor3965]

While your there In the shower that is, Who ever installed the Towel rail they put it on upside down ensuring the Allen screw holes to fill with water and then rust out and make future replacement a nightmare an easy fix to flip over.

[@gregmoore907]

You can thin Anchor lube with water and use it a squeeze bottle. Works well

[@stuartmorris3407]

I notice that the very end of the handle is spherical. I came across a very simple way to make a sphere. First you need a round steel bar that is a little smaller than the size you want to make and can be hardened. Skim the OD of the bar for a few mm and bore out so that the sphere can sit on the end. Machine a taper on the end to form a cutting edge. With the bar hardened you set the work piece turning at a relatively slow speed and you press the bar onto the workpiece by hand. If you traverse the bar around the sphere it will skive off the high points of the rough shape to produce a perfect sphere. If you can grind the cutting edge formed on the tool all the better. Hope this all makes sense because it is a very useful method of making spheres.