Making a Strip-Built Kayak - Glassing the Hull Exterior - E9

[@robertrandall4759]

Glassing the Guide Boat, with Nick's supervision at the WoodenBoat School, got me to the point where I feel totally comfortable with fiberglass and epoxy. I highly recommend taking one of Nick's classes.

[@NickSchade]

Thanks Bob.

[@davido9200]

I believe I have watched all your construction videos on KZbin. I learn something every time. Thank you for sharing your talent. Someday I will make my own wood epoxy composite kayak. I feel you have given me the knowhow. (I purchased one of your books and your awesome Robobevel.) Great stuff!

[@douglasgault2578]

This will be my 8th build. My first was the gilmount after 135 hrs right out of the book. I was shocked the paddles even worked with the off set scarf for the paddles. What a show stopper. I did go down and had several appraisals which came in at 10,000-14,000, but I couldn't sell. After 12 yrs of hard use and without a scratch it went up in flames burning up in a garage fire. Currently designing a strip built bush plane that looks promising. But expose yourself to other builders, as there's alot to be learned

[@NickSchade]

Sorry to hear about the fire. That is my worst nightmare

[@orelygarcia]

Great work Nick, thumbs up.

[@NickSchade]

Thanks. I'm pleased you enjoyed it.

[@markkrebs9103]

I am a bricklayer, and we use a horse hair brush to brush our work after we strike it. Looks like a dust pan brush but made with horse hair. Sweeping over the dry cloth with one will lay the cloth down tight to the wood like you wouldn't believe. Just happened to stumble upon it.

[@bryanworzella6053]

Would using a small roller be a better way to saturate the glass instead of brush?

[@NickSchade]

I find a roller can pump some air into the layup, but with care that can be avoided.

[@williamjarman7466]

you are a magician

[@1a1u0g9t4s2u]

Although you briefly discuss the boat stand in your book "The Strip-Built Sea Kayak", it is not up to the same quality as the one seen in your various build series. As a woodworker, I was able to construct my own rendition. Any thought on developing a set of plans to add to your On Line Store? Would like you to show case it in your next build series discussing some of the reasons you finalized on this design. Thanks for sharing a great build series.

[@NickSchade]

I have thought about adding the kayak stand plans to my store, but haven't done it yet. It's on the project list, but I can't say when it will happen.

[@mangoman62]

Nick, why are you applying a double layer of glass to the hull?

[@bryanmoir]

Would you still use staples if you were to build another one or use hot glue to stitch it to the forms?

[@NickSchade]

I build boats with staples and without. With is faster. For my own personal boat I would staple. For a customer, I would do whatever they are willing to pay for.

[@tomlatta4390]

When do you use wax in your epoxy? All coats or just the coats that cure and sand?

[@NickSchade]

Unlike polyester or vinylester resin, epoxy does not use the wax additive. It cures hard without it.

[@tomlatta4390]

Excellent, thanks.

[@bobbieraugel4024]

Is the fiberglass effected by high humidity? I built a strip canoe and glassed the boat on a humid day. now the boat has cloudy patches.

[@AndrewMoizer]

More useful information and reminders. I was wondering where and when you added that accent strip at the sheer. I'm assuming this is at the hull/deck joint but I haven't seen it mentioned.

[@NickSchade]

I will add the accent when I start working on the inside of the hull. You will see the process in an upcoming episode. When I started the kayak I was not sure if I was going to stain it. In which case I wanted to add the accent after glassing the outside. Since I didn't stain, I theoretically could have added the accent earlier, but doing it later still has some advantages.

[@AndrewMoizer]

Thanks again Nick. I (incorrectly again) figured it had to be on before the glass, and you fitted the hull/deck joint. It's all the little details that you're covering off that make a big difference. I'll wait for you covering it off.

[@pauld9530]

hi Nick, What once fibre glass do you use? Just starting to stock up in supplies

[@Hillside-Hotrods]

Great jobs you make it look easy, what cloth did you use?

[@NickSchade]

This is a 4 ounce E-glass 1522.

[@karamoldovan2838]

I don't see in any of your videos about the fiberglass reinforcement of the hull (where you add an extra strip or two to the areas that gets lots of abuse), but I see it in the book and you mention it in this video. Does this happen after the hull has completely cured but before you glass the deck?

[@NickSchade]

Check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZzTeZhjfdqHaM0m53s On this boat I decided to put on a second layer of glass on the hull after installing the outer stems, which I chose to install after joining the deck and hull. After adding the second layer I then added some more along the keel at each end and wrapped up the stems. The schedule in which you do different things is quite flexible. In this case I thought I was going to wrap the 2nd hull glass up on to the hull, instead of exterior seam tape. Because of this idea, I delayed the added reinforcing layers. After some reflection, I decided that was going to cause problems with bubbles on the deck, so I did a separate exterior seam later. The result is I am not adding more reinforcement until later in the project. I could have installed the outer stems before doing any glassing, done two layers at once, and then added a keel strip in the same operation. Either way would work fine. This additional reinforcement is not required, but can be a good idea.

[@karmimoldovan7298]

Nick Schade, thank you! My full length Petrel is soon to get its first coat of fiberglass! I appreciate all your videos.

[@baileyf6069]

Hi Nick. I commented a while ago on this video, and I am now almost at this step in the process. My question is how wide a cloth do you use? It looks to be wider than 36 inches from what I can tell, but I am curious about what width glass you recommend. Thanks for everything!!

[@NickSchade]

I think I'm using 52" cloth here.

[@baileyf6069]

@@NickSchade Thanks as always! Best KZbinr out there.

[@alanlocke3826]

Hi Nick. How did you finish off the bow (and stern) ? I probably missed something in the presentation. I'm having confusion on my canoe whether to fold and cut,cut and join, or what. Can you help?

[@NickSchade]

I have not yet finished off the bow and stern. I will install an outer stem then glass over that in an upcoming video.

[@baileyf6069]

Hi Nick. I am a woodworker considering making one of your boats next summer. I have thoroughly enjoyed this series and have learned a lot (read your book over several times as well). My funny question is about the squeegee you use for glassing. Any one in particular you recommend? Or do you make your own? Thanks so much for such a great series.

[@NickSchade]

I like the plastic body filler spreaders with a single edge. amzn.to/2hogjpI They tend to be the right flexibility, I tend to have several different widths available.

[@baileyf6069]

Nick Schade Wow thanks so so much for getting back to me. I feel like a celebrity just wrote me a note! Already added your suggestion to my Amazon wishlist (hoping to get a lot of the supplies for Christmas so I can start building in the spring). Thanks again. Do you consider squeegees one time users then toss? Or wash them somehow to be used again? PS I went to school at Connecticut College in New London which I think is not so far from you. Would love to connect with you someday and see your shop and boats. Sorry if that's weirdly personal. 🙂

[@NickSchade]

I usually get several uses with a squeegee. Be sure to wipe them off after use. The edge can get a little rough, but a couple passes with a block plane will sharpen them back up again.

[@bretsons1514]

How important is it to heat up your shop? My garage is poorly insulated and has no heating. Great video as always, excited to see more.

[@NickSchade]

What is most important is that you don't work in rising temperatures. This can contribute to bubbles in the layup. Try to work while the temperature is dropping, so maybe do your glassing in the afternoon. The warm shop lowers the viscosity of the resin which makes it flow into the cloth more easily. It doesn't need to be as warm as I make my shop, but avoid working when it is cool or cold. Some people will make a plastic tent area in there shop that they can heat up with a small portable heater. This may or may not be worth it, but it is an option.

[@edvardperlaki6675]

Hi Nick. How did you put together the hull and deck?

[@NickSchade]

Hi Edvard, I have not gotten to joining the deck and hull yet in this build, but if you want to see the process I've got a similar build at kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmbdgIZ8rNeWfNE that shows how I do it. It will be a little while until I reach that part of the process in this Petrel Play build.

[@edvardperlaki6675]

Thanks Nick.

[@ironmarshal9343]

Good choice of yogurt.

[@kaasis]

ahh i wish i could build this, but this looks very expensive and requires a lot of tools

[@NickSchade]

Since I have been doing this for awhile, I have accumulated a wide selection of tools which make some steps go faster, but the whole process can be done with very minimal tools. If you find materials from local suppliers, you should be able to keep the project to a modest budget.

[@Lawiah0]

Caught up - removed the deck.