Making a traditional Casement Window

[@NoWheyHombre]

I really enjoyed this video. I feel its a good and realistic balance of wood machining and wood working. Great stuff.

[@Phenrica]

Thanks 👍🏻

[@TheMessyStudio]

Looking good, Steve!

[@JimDockrellWatertone]

Nice! It's great when something nice comes out of some construction grade lumber.

[@Phenrica]

Sure is Jim 👍🏻

[@SteveC38]

Great video and Beautiful window Steve! Really well done My Friend.

[@Phenrica]

Thanks Steve C 👍🏻

[@jbug884]

Absolutely brilliant! 🤩

[@mohaloma1053]

I like your tools specifically mini planer

[@danceswithaardvarks3284]

Great stuff. I've been needing to make 3 small and one large casements for a couple of years now and could find nothing on youtube. Guess now i've got no excuse. Thanks : )

[@Phenrica]

Sorry Mike for removing the excuses 😂 Thanks for the comment and I’m sure yours will be spot on 👍🏻 Cheers Steve

[@leeedwards3783]

Great video. Just discovered your channel by looking at how to make doors and windows. Bought a book on it which was written in 1907 do hard to understand for me due to not being in the trade. Need some videos to explain it. A subscriber from me.

[@Phenrica]

Thanks Lee, hope it helps. Cheers Steve Ps the book is definitely not mine 😂

[@453421abcdefg12345]

Well ! That looks a first class job, a job I am about to do, but the material cost will be 4 times that here in France, even though I will mill the timber myself! I see by the padded shirt your temperatures must have plummeted, we had our first frost here this morning, time to put a shirt on ! Take care Steve! Chris B.

[@Phenrica]

Thanks Chris, Yep the temperatures are fluctuating here in NW England, it was a 3 layer approach. Wow I didn’t realise that timber would be more expensive in France, is it regional of all across France? It’s just I’ve recently bought a few boards of Oak (10ftx1ftxx2’) that came from France and they were £18 a piece, reasonably straight stuff at 20% moisture rate ugh was a good price! Cheers Steve

[@453421abcdefg12345]

@@Phenrica Odd is'nt it, we would pay 3 times that here in southern France, just to buy slabs of Oak to make 1 1/2" thick plank door costs circa £100 for the timber, and I have to cut it square and to length, I just buy a sawn slice of Oak tree and mill it up to size, I bought 35 Sq Mts of French Oak flooring from UK, had it shipped down to me, and it was still half the price I would pay here ? Everything is much more expensive in France ,except wine? Ironically I bought the flooring from a Frenchman that lives in UK ? I should buy a portable saw mill and cut the trees from my own wood! Chris B.

[@BenJustice13]

What is the point of the through dovetail joint vs. a but joint or mitered but joint and screws? It looks nice, but it will never be seen and is painted over?

[@Phenrica]

Hi Ben, thanks for the watch and comment. Technically there’s more glue surface created therefore a much stronger joint, butt joint and screws well the screws go into end grain even if glued strength is questionable. In the end it’s personal choice and using a traditional joint in a traditional casement window feels more appropriate to me. However different strokes for different folks all are functional. Cheers Steve

[@IsraelitesUnited]

Will that be water tight around the frame where you fit the window frame into

[@Phenrica]

Where it’s fitted is in a covered area with no chance of any water issues. If I fitted this to an external weather exposed area then I’d ensure the opening I was fitting into was either rebated or a shoulder plant and use plenty of silicon 😉

[@elizahartin4162]

How did you keep the router so straight for the glass rebate. It didn’t look like you were using a guide. I’m finding routing really tricky.

[@Phenrica]

Hi Eliza, I use a bearing guided rebating / slot bit that’s got a bearing at the bottom that follows the frame , here’s a link www.tooled-up.com/trend-bearing-self-guided-rebate-router-cutter/prod/235752 Then it’s down to the depth of rebate for which size bit you need. I also have a number of bearing sizes which help managed the depth of cut width wise that I use (hope makes sense) as I recall the one I used was a 32mm (1.25”) dia bit and a final bearing size of 9.5mm (3/8”) that left a 11mm (7/16”) rebate. I use the different size bearing to help manage and splintering. Hope this helps Steve

[@NicoNico-te2tk]

Why didnt yoou show the placement of the glass??

[@Phenrica]

To be honest I can’t recall apart from that it’s pretty straight forward in terms of placing the glass in the Rebated recess and then pin the beading to hold the glass in place.