Very nice work sir. You made it look easy. It did turn out very nice
@flyingdream_mfАй бұрын
perfect
@Preso58Ай бұрын
Nice job. Regards, Preso
@grntitan12 ай бұрын
Fixturing is the key for those fiddly parts. Turned out nice. Look forward to the next vid.
@strittmatterironworks2 ай бұрын
Thank you! Hopefully I can get the next video out in a month rather than a year.
@aeroearthАй бұрын
You may well find 6061-T6 too weak for a conrod. I machine my model aero engine's conrods usually from high tensile 2024-T3 and for highly stressed conrods 7075-T6. However the 2024-T3 has a higher fatigue life thatn that of 7075-T6. Bit safer to do the rotary milling by making a mandrel to clamp the conrod and rotary milling in a rotary table set with its axis vertical. Use a paper feeler to judge when you are getting close to blending in with the shank's milled surfaces. Wrist pins from AO drill rod blank (in the USA) and silver steel in the UK/Australia/NZ hardened and tempered to dark straw and finely finished to size. Really good idea to machine the ends of the wrist pins to a radius first at just less than that of the bore. Wire circlips are an even better solution. Subscribed.
@strittmatterironworksАй бұрын
Thank you! I have more 6061 than 2024. I can't see wasting my limited materials on this particular engine. My approach is, let's get it to run first! I have some 2618 for pistons but will probably use 6061. It will be interesting to see how the subpar alloys hold up. For the wrist pins in a few past engines I pressed bronze buttons on each end. I agree wire circlips would be ideal.
@erdelybela2416Ай бұрын
It is not the skill of an acomplished machinist that is to be envied in You, but the confidence that goes with all that knowledge, indeed the almost outlandish nerve to just create a truly scratch built model engine - such a difficult task even with plans because the tight tolerances.
@strittmatterironworks29 күн бұрын
Thank you 👍
@TangentJimАй бұрын
Great Planning - Nice Holding Fixture . Two Thumbs Up -- Jim
@strittmatterironworksАй бұрын
Thanks Jim! 👍
@Andrew_Fernie2 ай бұрын
Nice 👍
@gwheyduke2 ай бұрын
Really nice work. Looks good 👍
@strittmatterironworks2 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@fabientuizat1129Ай бұрын
Merci !!!
@fivebob8245Ай бұрын
6061 is not strong enough for a conrod, you need to use 2024 or 7075. It also it needs to have a bronze bush, and a hole drilled at the big end for oiling. The big end should have .002"-.003" clearance to allow for proper lubrication of the big end.
@strittmatterironworksАй бұрын
Thanks. This isn't going to be a very high performance engine. Cross scavenge with piston baffle rather than schnuerle porting.
@fivebob8245Ай бұрын
@@strittmatterironworks You may get away with 6061, but I'd still use 2024 in a sport engine half that size, especially if you're not going to bush the bottom end as 2024 is a better journal bearing against steel than 6061. The comments about big end clearance and oil holes still apply though regardless of the material you choose. The only exception would be if there was an oil hole in the crankpin, then you wouldn't need one in the rod.
@truebluekitАй бұрын
nice work. thanks for sharing👍
@yankeedoodle76932 ай бұрын
Quality engine work is hard to find these days. Well, not any more. What size engine is this going in?
@strittmatterironworks2 ай бұрын
It's 11.7cc. Plans are to put it in an rc plane. Spark ignition but might make a glow plug nitro version as well.
@dhal22Ай бұрын
As an avid rc plane builder/enthusiast just this comment alone made me hit the subscribe button.
@strittmatterironworksАй бұрын
Thanks! With this engine in its current configuration I definitely don't need to worry about a tail heavy plane. Its quite the chunker!