Making an MFT Style Assembly Table Using Extruded Aluminum // Parf Guide System

[@missamo80]

Looks really nice! You mention it's more expensive than building out of wood. How much did the parts cost? Oh, and how was the mac and cheese?

[@parillaworks]

The Mac was on point. All of the aluminum parts from the first part of the video were a touch under $200. There’s sort of a price floor when you consider any table needs X amount of brackets. So scaling this up to a bigger table won’t be a linear increase in price, but it’ll definitely be a little expensive. But, when you factor in the built in t-track, it’s not so bad, at least that’s what I’m telling myself to justify it 🙂

[@missamo80]

@@parillaworks That's really not unreasonable. You're trading a little bit of money for a lot of time savings. Interesting on the non-linear increase in price, I hadn't thought of that. I imagine shipping is what quickly becomes an issue for longer parts, but at that point you can likely source the rails from a local supplier (Grainger e.g.) and get all the smaller connectors online. Looks like a 4' length of 80/20 15 Light is $32.75. Oh, can you update the description with links to the cool hole jigs you used?

[@parillaworks]

I just updated the description but here's a link to where I got mine: bit.ly/2PqQ0jo Ya the great thing is that the extrusions are all pretty much universal as long as you are within the right series, and even then, there are connectors that let you join different series together.

[@RiccardoItaly]

Great idea keeping the ends open.

[@ryanbailey112]

Excellent little build mate. Can’t wait to see the bigger one.

[@parillaworks]

Thanks! I recently made another one to hold my CNC. I’m on the fence about a large one like I mentioned in the video. Of late, I’ve been interested in incorporating some sort of hydraulic scissor lift in my next assembly table. We’ll see how that goes.

[@AlainPilon]

I purchased (used) 60mm square extrusions to make a work table. Now that I look at them, I think I may have over purchased. These things are HUGE. I like the idea of offsetting the extrusion to allow clamp access from all sides. good work!

[@parillaworks]

Ya that sounds pretty big! My next one might use 1.5” x 3” for the top rails for better clamping.

[@HalProctor]

Glad i'm not the only one using the shirt as a cool-down gripper! Loved it!

[@parillaworks]

And you always gotta rest with your bare hand first!

[@DavidVeits]

I really appreciate this video. I only recently discovered that aluminum extrusions were available to hobbyists like myself and I'm looking forward to attempting to build something with them one day. Your video was really helpful and the first I've seen on using aluminum extrusions from a woodworkers point of view.

[@parillaworks]

I’m glad to hear that David! I was sort of in the same position as you. I didn’t see much out there talking about it and wanted to give it a shot. It’s definitely a cool material and there’s a ton more that can be done with it. I’m hoping to get the bigger table made before the end of the year!

[@mike3ike]

Nice build John. Really enjoyed level of detail in describing your process.

[@parillaworks]

Thanks Mike!

[@jamesl8790]

Thank you for this detailed guide!

[@snap8386]

Can you share a list and sizes for the parts? I think I want to build one.

[@varsitynoodle]

Thanks for posting the link to the products used. Ive been wanting to go extruded aluminum for my shop and its daunting trying to figure out all the bits and pieces. Keep up the good work and looking forward to the larger build

[@parillaworks]

Thanks Jered! Ya I went through a ton of iterations with just this basic built. I mostly used sketchup and pencil/paper to work it out. Then it was onto which vendor had the best price and parts for my needs.

[@richstephens6197]

Nice build, ya got me thinking... I have a suggestion for your next version: Hold the mdf top back on the extrusion to behind the slot so you can slide a clamp in the topside. That would enhance your clamping options greatly.

[@JayBergCustoms]

I have been planning to build an assembly table to use in my garage shop for some time, torsion box style. The idea of keeping it level and true on a garage floor is what has been stopping me. This seems like a great solution for me. I can use leveling legs, perhaps with some sort of drop down caster for portability, and just tape the door known points for level on the garage floor. And DEFINITELY ordering the Parf Guide Systrm from Lee Valley! This was a great video!! Just subscribed to tour channel!!

[@parillaworks]

Thanks for the comment Jeffrey. A torsion box top is a great option. I’ve seen a video or two where flip down casters are added to the extrusions, it’s definitely do-able. The parf system seems to go in and out of stock frequently. I ordered from Axminster and the shipping from the UK was super fast and cheap, surprisingly.

[@shedinagarage]

Thanks for sharing, It helped me lot with a project I intend to do.

[@ryderscustomcreations3665]

This is awesome. It’s really in line with a business idea i have. Thanks for sharing

[@HDBoyWonder]

Can we assume there are published weight recommendations for the various extrusion sizes? I’d like to build one of these for a DeWalt DCS7485 cordless (45 lbs.) or DWE7491 corded (90 lbs.) table saw.

[@parillaworks]

I would guess they’re readily available somewhere. I know 8020 has some online chat support. They may be able to provide some info on specific builds and things like that.

[@rundeks]

Love the video! I hadn’t thought about leaving the track on each side exposed. Good points on thinking about how you assemble the parts. I’m looking to do something similar, but larger. So I can layout a full sheet of plywood/mdf and use my track saw to break it down. Any progress on you bigger table? Any other tips for building a bigger table.

[@parillaworks]

Thanks for watching! I think I’ve added stuff to my ‘cart’ online for a larger table like 5 times but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I’m waiting to move some things around in the shop and get more organized. For the larger table, I think I’m gonna use 1530 series for the top perimeter. More rigid and also a larger clamp surface if needed.

[@rundeks]

@@parillaworks if you don’t mind sharing, roughly what’s your cart total? I’m starting to price out my own table and am curious how bad I’m doing.

[@parillaworks]

@@rundeks I’m planning to do something that’s 60”x30”, maybe a little bit smaller. The cost is coming in around $450-550. But I really need to sit down and list out exactly what I need. I keep doing it in my head which is hard to keep track of.

[@pumpitloud1460]

Solid Video. It’s actually pretty enjoyable watching you, comes very natural. I’m pretty new into woodworks, but also down with ALU extrusions. Building now an MFT with multiple function with them, as also wanting to create some rail Square and cutting stations with it. This stuff got huge potential in all directions. I am curious if at some point you will push out another video where you show a future expansion of your mft and ALU profile usages! Sadly i don’t got enough equip for a KZbin Chanel yet. Still got to watch out a bit money vise as starting woodcraft new comes quite expensive

[@parillaworks]

Hey Sebastian. Thanks for the comment. I haven’t made the larger aluminum workbench yet but hope to when I get a break in my schedule. I actually just put together a similar table for my CNC though. Towards the back of my shop is a 7” step up into our house but for some reason it extends the full width of the shop. I designed the table so that the base was shallower than the top so that the top can butt up against the wall before the wheels hit the step. The extrusions were a great solution in this case. The table is 46” x 42” and about 32” tall; cost about $340 from Tnutz. Anyway, I recently came across the idea to use a small scissor lift as the bas of the bench so that I can have my work at varying levels. When I find time, I’ll need to figure out the best way to attach an aluminum frame top to the lift. -John

[@BenM81]

Did you ever make a larger one?

[@parillaworks]

I did not. I priced it out and was close to $6-700. Figured it wasn’t worth it at the time. I ended up going with a Kreg workbench and MDF top.

[@BenM81]

@@parillaworksthank you for responding. I just built one the same size as the Festool MFT3 and it cost me 350 in Aluminum Extrusions plus the cost of the top. A large one would have been wicked expensive. 👊🏻

[@michaelkaye4998]

excellent idea to do a prototype.

[@W4TRI_Ronny]

Nice build! I use the metric with 5mm screws and drop in twist types to build 3D printer frames and parts. It all goews together well and can be as addictive as new tools. If you ever want to get into 3D printing don't buy a ready to go one. Look up the Hypercube project on KZbin and the groups on Facebook.

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Nice Video! I'm planning on building a Paulk truss style portable workbench top using Baltic birch plywood. I could use the 15 series 8020 tho, I have some 4 ft sections and plenty of nuts and bolts. (I have a few 3 d printers and was going to build a bigger one) I'm going to price out the 4- 8ft sections I would need and all the corner brackets. I'm sure it will be a lil more than Baltic birch sides. I already got the UJK Parf guide system for the top ,and a bunch of clamps, but the current plywood prices have kept me waiting to build it. I may just go MDF top and bottom and 8020 Aluminum sides and bracing, thanks for the great idea.

[@SteveC38]

That came out really nice Bud👍

[@michael.schuler]

Nice video. To provide access to both ends of all four perimeter frame members, you might want to consider emulating the corner configuration used on original Festool tables, in which the same corner brackets you used can connect extrusions, neither of which butts to its neighbor. Your method works, but this alternate allows entry and exit from either end at all times, even after the initial build.

[@parillaworks]

Thanks Michael. I’m not sure if a similar corner bracket exists for this extrusion. If it does, it would be extremely convenient! I’ll have to look into it.

[@michael.schuler]

@@parillaworks Try using the same corner brackets you have now, but with the perimeter extrusions meeting only at their innermost edges, as I suggest. I think you will find that the resultant frame is just as sturdy insofar as its function as table top is concerned, especially after the top itself is attached to the frame. You will then need to relocate the legs inward on one or the other axis in order for a leg to support the top from directly beneath one or the other of the top extrusions. As this shift will allow use of only one of the two 90 deg. brackets you now have bracing each leg, one way to prevent racking in the axis previously braced by the missing bracket would be to add one or two horizontal cross piece(s) to create a pair of end frames in place of the four independently braced legs you have now. This would convert your existing flour-legged table construction into a more typical workbench construction comprising two end frames joined by horizontal stretchers. While this will add the cost of two or four more short pieces of extrusion to convert the legs into rigid frames, I'm pretty sure you will find that cost more than justified by the increase utility and convenience of a top whose perimeter T-slots are accessible from both ends. When I design custom tools and fixtures, I often find it instructive to first try to discern why major manufacturers have arrived at design decisions that seem virtually universal. Festool MFT, Mafell Erika push-pull saw, and many other machine designs incorporating perimeter t-slot extrusions all stop them short of the corner as I am suggesting. The ability to re-purpose and re-configure t-slot components is a large part of the advantage in investing in them as you have done. Good luck!

[@juanchaidez3569]

Did you look into the woodpecker boring jig for routing the 20mm holes?

[@parillaworks]

I gave it a look but I was pretty set on not using a router. Once I realized my jig wouldn’t work out, I just went for the parf system which seems to be the most well regarded.

[@foamx01]

I have both and the Parf system is significantly more accurate.

[@oldporkchops]

Hi there, You have a great build. Does TNutz help with designing such tables? Also, what would be the estimated, non-linear cost of a 72 x 30 x 34 table that you mentioned? Do they have leg parts that allow the leg parts to be folded in? Thanks.

[@parillaworks]

Hi. I don't know if TNutz helps with there design side of things but it could be worth asking. I know 80/20 definitely does but it's going to be quite expensive. I was working on a 60" x 30" x 35" or so and I think that was going to come close to $500-600. I was going to use wider extrusions for the main stretchers for increased clamping ability. The real cost comes with all of the connectors; things add up quick. As for the folding legs, I know that hinges are available but I don't know the best way to make it work for folding legs.

[@MCsCreations]

Really interesting process, dude! 😃 Yeah, those aluminum extrusions are pretty useful! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@almostanengineer]

8020 Extrusion is an amazing eco-system for engineers, most automation/manufacturing systems use it because of its versatility, even after the added cost over welded steel, this is mainly because of the flexibility, and availability of compatible components, including clamps, hinges, linear rails, bearing blocks etc... it's an entire industry of it's own. Check out companies like Elesa and Misumi for an example of what's possible with this stuff.

[@parillaworks]

Thanks for the comment Daniel. Totally agree. This little table is like the bare minimum of what this extrusion is capable of. Making a router table with slide in panels and hinged doors is an example of something very approachable for people looking to use this type of system.

[@joeforster5503]

Did you ever make a larger version?

[@parillaworks]

I was very close to but never did. The costs on the aluminum would’ve been near $600 or so for what I wanted. Decided to go with a Kreg table and put a 7’ x 3’ MDF top on it with the same grid of holes.

[@flamabl1]

Nice video. Thanks for all the info.

[@calston155771]

Did you still plan to build the larger version?

[@parillaworks]

I ended up building a larger table but it was made using a Kreg assembly kit. Not nearly as functional but the aluminum one from this video was going to be way too expensive.

[@HalProctor]

Add more holes later and slanted box bottom to make your downdraft table!.

[@smnhpkns]

Thanks for sharing this. I am really excited about building one of these for myself. Amazing 😉

[@Fernanderas2011]

Thank you for your time, very nice and clean work, is it possible to build a copy or similar as the MFT table form festool, their is very pricy , thank for the tips and link I am looking forwrad of doind one or two Blessings

[@fotiss8883]

Hey. Search New Brit workshop on KZbin. That's the guy that came up with this system. His name is Peter Parfitt hence the name of the system ( Parf guide system ). He even gives you plan on how to make your own mft

[@svenhundertmark2798]

Realy nice! 👍👍

[@robertbamford8266]

Clever solution. Opens up a huge range of possibilities - especially with an extruded aluminum frame for the top and wood for the base. Question: how did the assembled top turn out for flatness?

[@parillaworks]

I didn’t do any true tests for the flatness but there didn’t seem to be any rocking when I put the mdf on top.

[@hazembata]

On the Mac and Cheese, was it from a box or pasta with real melted cheese?? Can't leave out these kind of details. Oh, and the table is nice too.

[@parillaworks]

We’re about that box life.

[@brandonthebuildertx]

Nice! I'm in the middle of building an outfeed/assembly table/workbench/thing right now that I'm planning on getting the Parf guide for to do the same thing. In fact I should really be doing that instead of watching KZbin 😂

[@parillaworks]

Lol get to work! I'm glad we have similar naming conventions for our builds haha.

[@bmitchizzle]

I like you. If you live in Portland we should swap notes. Certain simple and contrarian woodworking KZbin video concepts occasionally crossed my mind. Such as a counter argument to the more ubiquitous table saw crosscut jigs among other things that I remember then forget then remember as they arise. IDK.

[@H2Dwoat]

Hi, can you give an idea on the costs for the extrusion and connectors?

[@parillaworks]

Hi. It was a touch under $200. 80/20.net would’ve been closer to $300; the pro of going with 80/20 is a much larger selection of parts. Tnutz is pretty basic but I think it’s a great option for someone like me who was just trying it out.

[@H2Dwoat]

parillaworks: Cheers.

[@TheTranq]

To the woodworker: 3D T-track?? To the engineer: Go to solution for prototyping Nice build! Planning a slab flattening jig and gonna be using it for the frame

[@parillaworks]

Seems like a great use for it. Will you be using linear bearings?

[@TheTranq]

@@parillaworks still in the early planning stages! I plan to do a video on it when it's done though!

[@TheTranq]

@@parillaworks You're video inspired me to get going with the build! Yes I am going use the bearing glides that go with them and then doing a mixture of laser cutting acrylic and 3D printing for the rest!

[@ehudmigdan]

Great build!! I would really appreciate to know the cost of materials for this project. Thanks again from Isreal

[@ehudmigdan]

Just seen that my question is already been answered.

[@parillaworks]

Glad to hear. Let me know if you have any other questions about the costs or anything in general.

[@AllHailKingOC]

Do you think it would be easy to attached just the top portion to wooden legs? Could help cut down on cost. I’m considering 1030 series as a torsion box alternative for a 60”x30” outfeed/assembly table with an MDF top.

[@parillaworks]

I considered that for a brief moment but never explored the viability. My first thought is to use an L shaped leg made of plywood and place it on the inside of the top assembly. Then attach with a few t-nuts. In reality, the 1030 pieces and brackets would be the bulk of your costs anyway. A few extra legs at 25-30” won’t be too much more.

[@wh0tube]

It sure is a shame to have all them t-tracks hidden under that holy mdf! 😉👍

[@kosinskiarek]

Great video and thanks for sharing. I just thought of something, this parf system is expensive too bad there isn't an easy way to renting this. You only use this guide once or twice in your life and then it just sits there on a shelf. Anyone from around chicago IL that can lend (for a fee) this guide? I really don't want to buy it for one time use. Thanks!

[@skogsmats]

Slick!

[@TAGGdinc]

No end taps means it’s pretty weak

[@MAGAMAN]

That hole jig looks expensive and over complicated.

[@shawnstuart1029]

Perhaps better to score drill the bottom of the 3mm hole to 20mm free hand before the top to prevent chip out and get a cleaner hole, then you flip the board over when it's worn on top for a new clean surface.

[@parillaworks]

That’s a great idea. I got a little bit of blowout but nothing crazy. I think I’ll do that on the next version though. Thanks!

[@shawnstuart1029]

@@parillaworks Great build. One other thing to consider is moving the shelf up so you can use clamps to mount boards vertically with more support.

[@parillaworks]

Another good tip. One of my initial sketches had a shelf like that but i decided to cut costs and go basic on this first one. The other option I’m considering is 1.5”x3” rails for the top which could provide that extra support.

[@tritonok8740]

Ну что сказать , Мастер с большой буквы , это все шыкарно , я все видео смотрю не одно не пропускаю , тоже зделал канал , кому интересно переходите смотрите , буду рад подпискам и вашым коментариям . в дальнейшем будит много нового , спасибо за твои видео они вдохновляют

[@parkmccombs]

By far the worst customer service I’ve received in my life from this company. Told they could not add an extra product to my order and I will have to reorder and pay for shipping. Save your money and time, go to 80/20

[@flamabl1]

Ummm, no, lol. Un-loosen would be to tighten them.