Making fake Stained Glass with epoxy and CNC

This time I feel like playing with epoxy. I'm fascinated by transparency and light so I'm trying to make fake stained glass using coloured epoxy. The challenge is the multiple passes between the epoxy pours.
I'm not entirely happy with the polishing, I think I miss wet sand paper from 800 to 3200 between the dry sandpaper (up to 320) and the polishing compound. That's the reason why I had to use varnish. I'll have to try again.
My CNC: www.sorotec.de...
Where I buy most of my bits: www.cncfraises.fr
My CAD/CAM software: www.vectric.co...
Donald Duck design on ETSY: www.etsy.com/l...
All music comes from the KZbin free music library. I tried more music on this one, let me know if you prefer the videos without music and more machining noise. :)

[@11290slk]

This deserves waaaaay more likes than what it has. Excellent work!!

[@binarymirror8534]

Amazing dedication to art. WOW !!!

[@jeremylawson6648]

youtube is so crazy, this is one of the craziest things i’ve ever seen in my life. I have so many questions but i’m probably just gonna watch this a buncha times time I get it and try this. Great work fr.

[@DaleDix]

Wow, that's awesome!

[@Bect4]

Way too much Red....LoL, had to say it. This was so awesome, my hat is off to you. I would have never thought of doing anything like this.

[@kevinrich4637]

Thank you for sharing you knowledge and skills! One day I want try this technique!

[@bigdaddy1363]

Excellent work

[@jonm189]

I really enjoyed that - well done, it looks amazing!

[@terryhuber327]

Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!

[@dawnbigwarfe6871]

Just have another project using the same colors for the extra epoxy hahahahahah! Looks great

[@dal2888859]

Really great idea! I might try it! One suggestion i thought of as you were sanding and polishing is to pocket the shape of the ornament out in mdf, half the depth of the ornament, then put the ornament in the pocket with the side up you want to polish. That way you can clamp the mdf to a table and polish all at once. Having sanded and polished my share over the years, i know moving those clamps was a pain and broke your rhythm. Thanks for the awesome video!

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks for the idea. A good jig is always handy! ;)

[@pwilisch]

Very impressive!

[@jeoq8566]

What an amazing project ! Bravo

[@theebalz]

Very cool piece! So many questions for you.....

[@CapeDesignLtd]

Well done looks amazing. Lot of work. A suggestion keep the two tabs until the very end. They would have become very handy for the polishing. 😉

[@larrystaas1940]

Very nice work.

[@markperkins9437]

That was a lot of work!

[@stephanforseilles]

Yes. That's where the joy is. ;)

[@LKMKully]

GREAT JOB!!

[@harleypruett]

A vacuum table for machining would be useful for sanding too!

[@bentebrunsvelt319]

Beautyfull work 🤪😷👍

[@shredderatwork]

That's Skill 👍🏻

[@dimdimdu54]

Sinon très beau résultat, bravo !

[@rodjava]

nice work!

[@Cedric.landes]

SUPER BOULOT !!!!! Bravo

[@michelbaudoux2469]

Très beau travail

[@TL-zr8ii]

Stained glass, not stainless glass. Well done Brad, thanks for sharing your techniques!

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks for the clarification (I'm french speaking). I'll change te title. ;)

[@zickypatton9324]

Beautiful but a hell lot of work ☺️🥰

[@waynecarter4799]

Great work, I think if it was me i would have done a flood coat at the end instead of the clear coat to get a really nice smooth finish

[@stephanforseilles]

Indeed. I'll try that next time!

[@Mullet743]

Cool! 👌

[@swingman3838]

Excellent work. What kind of spindle speeds and feed settings do you use on your 1/16" bits for epoxy cutting? I seem to break my 1/16" 0 Fllute bits every time. Trial and error on numerous settings and still break bits routinely. Any insight would be appreciated!

[@davidhenrard4052]

Top

[@pholos77]

tres interessant, et je vois qu'on a le meme fournisseur de caramels au beurre salé... 😁

[@stephanforseilles]

C'est le meilleur. ;)

[@unclebedhead9099]

those deck planks you use... is that padauk? that stuff is pricey here in CO. who wastes so much padauk?

[@stephanforseilles]

Those are offcuts from a deck construction. Here around Padauk is much cheaper than Cherry or Walnut.

[@danielricaud3783]

Félicitations très beau travail . J’aimerai connaître quelle essence de bois rouge tu utilises ? Merci

[@gardyloo3415]

True visionary! I’ve got so many questions!!! But what was total time making this?

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks. I'd say, in total, including CAD/CAM, about 10 hours.

[@michka238]

Genial..encore une superbe réalisation....mais du PADOUK. !! Sniff

[@stephanforseilles]

Merci! C'est des bouts de terrasse qui me restaient. ;)

[@dawnbigwarfe6871]

Can you explain the reason for the pocket circle outside your project please thanks

[@stephanforseilles]

The large one we can see at kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJWld5KsbrObZ6M ? It's just to make sure the whole base board is perfectly flat. Not mandatory but practical. :)

[@joshuabray37]

Beautiful job. I've been wanting to try this too (epoxy "stained glass"). I've done MANY multi-colored epoxy pieces, so, I have plenty of experience, but I've mostly kept them "inlayed" in the wood... One question though, sorry if you answered it in the video (I had to listen with the sound off), was there a particular reason you used Padauk and not something cheaper like Pine or MDF? I don't remember which material it was, but I had a nightmare with the epoxy leaking through end grain (but, I think it was some pretty thin deep pour epoxy in teak). I was able to slow it down with some packing tape.

[@stephanforseilles]

Hi Josh. I had Padauk lying around from a deck build and it's a very dense wood, so no risk if seeping. When I use more porous woods, I'll first apply a coat of clear epoxy with a brush on the inside of the pocket and let it set for 24-48h so it will seal the wood for good. Without that, even relatively thick epoxy will seep through the tiniest of cracks and holes... If I'm in a hurry I'll use UV-epoxy or a couple of coats of spray-on varnish.I had tons of problems of that nature with this project kzbin.info/www/bejne/famvkGqiqKqNqqc .

[@joshuabray37]

@@stephanforseilles ah, gotcha. Thanks for explaining. Yep, you use what you’ve got… In my area, Padauk is $$$ so, I tend to treasure every little bit… You to great work, by the way!

[@edwardayers6795]

Nice work. What epoxy brand are you using. It has a low viscosity, I like that!

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks! I used that one: www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07S6RSFZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@michaeld954]

how dose it hold up in the sun?

[@stephanforseilles]

It hasn't changed since. It's good quality epoxy so I hope it should hold well.

[@marcob6840]

Hello Stephan, concerning your way to use deep Inlays and the parameters you use in Vectric (specifically on the 5° 0.5tip bit), I would like to share with you a couple of issues I have found. I looked your many videos, all actually beautiful. If I set a similar bit (side 5.2°, R=0.25mm) as an Engraving bit (Side angle (A) = 5.2°; Flat diameter (F) = 0.5mm), then the inlay doesn't fit in the pocket more than 1mm (should be 5mm), if I set as a VBit (angle (A)=10.4°), then it fits too easily. Is there a way to get in touch with you other then leaving a comment on your videos? Thanks. Marco

[@stephanforseilles]

Hello Marco. I had issues with some (mostly cheap) bits where the REAL angle was not at all what was advertised... Could that be a reason in your case?

[@dimdimdu54]

Tu devrais surfacer avec une fraise a surfacer de 30mm, tu gagnerais du temps ! Et achète tes fraises sur Aliexpress, c'est exactement les mêmes que sur CNC fraises, au tiers du prix ...

[@stephanforseilles]

Hello. J'ai plusieurs fraises de surfaçage, dont des fraises à plaquettes, assez chères. Mais elle vibrent beaucoup sur du bois de bout (pas le cas ici, c'est vrai, mais c'est ce que je fais le plus souvent) et je dois diminuer la vitesse par rapport à la 6mm. Pour CNC Fraises, il fait fabriquer certaines de ses fraises en France selon ses propres spécification. Je le sais car j'ai participé à l'élaboration de certains modèles (en testant des prototypes), dont un qui a carrément été fait pour moi (cf www.cncfraises.fr/packs/394-pack-cnc-v-carving-inlay-incrustations-inserts-bois.html ). Pour certaines fraises, c'est vrai qui'l y a des modèles équivalents Aliexpress, mais la longévité n'est pas la même, selon mes tests;

[@terryshank7472]

Do you need to go full depth for the other epoxy colors? could you save epoxy and not go as deep?

[@stephanforseilles]

Then there would be a layer of black (or any colour in which an insert is made) I behind the coloured epoxy, the colour would not be as vibrant.

[@Checkitfirst]

So what program are you using for your designing and also to run your CNC with

[@stephanforseilles]

I use Vectric Vcarve Desktop for CAD/CAM and Eding to drive my CNC.

[@Checkitfirst]

@@stephanforseilles Awesome. Thank you for your response. I’m looking to get a cnc and I’m just trying to do my homework first

[@dimdimdu54]

Ça t'as pris combien de temps avec les temps de séchage etc ?

[@stephanforseilles]

Je fais ça quand j'ai le temps (weekend), sur environ 2 semaines.

[@brooksmartin2665]

Thanks Stephan for the inspiration. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4mcgXp_aNaehdk

[@saby7416]

But a stained glass painting appears more glossy and colorful

[@whydoihavetoify]

fantastic work