Resin Stained Glass: Viewer Suggestions!

[@ianthomas3653]

Peter, Opaque pigments and UV resin do not work together. UV resin cures with light and opaque pigments block that light. That white pigment I sent you all those years ago was titanium dioxide the red i don't remember exactly what it was, but it blocked the light enough to stop the cure. You could put very thin layers of those mixtures and you may have some success, but i would reserve opaque pigments to an A/B epoxy. P.S. i haven't missed an episode since i started watching all those years ago. I am glad that lately you have been uploading more often, and that you are still finding use of the stuff i sent (despite the fact it caused so much mayhem on this project). Also i still work in adhesives, but I am a leatherworker now too if you want to try to work leather into a project let me know.

[@peterbrownwastaken]

Thank you Ian!

[@victoriaeads6126]

Getting one of those nail polish UV setups that just sits on the surface will include good UV bulbs plus ease of use and larger coverage area for the light. I have used such a lamp with great success with UV resin.

[@erikbrush]

You used too much mica powder. It has nothing to do with opaque colours. But powders that are too thick in application do obscure opacity for curing. 3 tips. 1. Use a 36 watt for at least 3 or 4 minutes. The time will vary depending on the brand and thickness of the UV resin. Doming resins tend to thicken and cure faster than more viscous resins. Cure on both sides. 2. Mica powder can be strengthened with alcohol inks (again, mild amounts!) and not only will you create bright new colours, but the ink will soften opacity allowing the resin to cure more thoroughly. 3. Resin brands matter. If you get a high end resin like Piccassio for example, it will be thick enough to dome well, thin enough to pour well, and cures FAR faster than many brands. Other brands such as Let's Resin will take longer to cure, is a bit thinner, and this means that work time can vary. Some resins take forever to cure. So do some comparative shopping. Good luck with future projects.

[@prcervi]

opaque pigmented resins can uv cure, i've seen it before, but they need a lot more time in the light

[@ianthomas3653]

@@prcervi Materials that are mostly opaque will, however that is titanium dioxide ( i was the person who sent it to him) think of it like Zinc oxide (commonly used as sunscreen). There is TiO2 in some sunscreens as well, and in those cases you only need a fraction of TiO2 compared to ZiO2. Even in some adhesive applications titanium dioxide is specifically used to block out uv light. Enough of it will block out 99.999% of all UV light making curing a UV resin impossible. How do I know?, I have been working formulating custom adhesives for the automotive and aerospace industry for close to 20 years. I have specifically worked on custom adhesives that need to block UV light/radiation both here on earth and also elsewhere.

[@Nakamura65]

You need stronger UV light and translucent pigments. That white pigment is probably opaque so the moment the top layer cured it stopped the light penetrating towards the bottom of the "pool".

[@tr1ppl3M]

Could be... I'm no scientist, but uv isn't visible light and it passes through many opaque things. It would be interesting to see a test.

[@SophiaRester]

More opaque gel nail polishes can take longer to cure, especially dark colors

[@MannonMartin]

This. What happened wasn't due to the chemical properties of your pigments, but the optical properties. The white pigment was designed to scatter and reflect light evenly across the visual spectrum, but ultraviolet is pretty close to the upper end of our visual range and probably was also being scattered and reflected by it. You also used enough white pigment that those parts appeared to be quite opaque, blocking the UV from getting much past the surface. If you mixed the pigment more thinly the UV would have been able to scatter and penetrate better. If you still want an opaque look you may need to fill most of the space with transparent resin and cure it first, then try a thin layer of more opaque resin on top. But it may also be possible to get pigments that are more translucent in UV and thus work better with UV resin. By the same token the red segments also didn't cure as well, despite being translucent. But again, this is due to the optical properties of the pigment. In this case the pigment is designed to absorb strongly in the blue and green parts of the spectrum, thus providing a translucent red light when lit with white lite. Once again the pigment probably has the same properties in UV that it has in the blue part of the spectrum and absorbs the UV, making it harder for the resin to cure, although it was not as opaque in UV as the white was so it seemed to fare better. You'll probably need to experiment to see which pigments work better in UV resin. Maybe try less pigment density in the resin, thin pours, a stronger UV light, and patience.

[@pattiklaus9580]

Its a clear bottom. Flip it over and hit w uv again.

[@iamstickfigure]

@@pattiklaus9580 But it curled up. Lol. Even if it didn't, you'd just end up with a liquid filled pocket if you only cured the surfaces. Really, the entire volume needs to cure

[@LynetteBunBun]

Peter, a few tips for this. UV resin doesn't do well with massive amounts of mica powder due to it blocking the light. 2 you need to follow the amount of time the resin on the bottle tells you to cure it. You were curing way too little with the UV light you have. Also, to get a proper stained-glass look, use a resin pigment like alcohol inks or translucent colorant for it.

[@peterbrownwastaken]

Thank you.

[@LeopardessMoon01]

Make sure to use UV pigments. Alcohol ink will affect the resin. We use alcohol to clean up the UV resin

[@wolfsrose1985]

@@LeopardessMoon01 Alcohol ink does work in UV resin if you use very little. The problem with alcohol inks in resin though, is that they fade in indoor natural lighting in about 6 weeks. So not recommended, especially for something that is designed to be put in full sun.

[@quillclock]

also the sun is really good for UV light if you can bring it outside@@peterbrownwastaken

[@Yipper64]

if I was doing this i'd just leave it outside for a few hours, just to be sure, get that sun UV

[@TheDarkPreacher65]

Hey Peter, my wife does a TON of UV resin work, and she suggested that instead of using your torch to pop surface bubbles, a little dollar tree spritz bottle full of 91% Isopropryl Alcohol is the perfect thing for popping the bubbies. Just a light misting across the surface will make all the bubbles disappear. The reason why a torch is not recommended is that you could accidentally set the resin on fire or even burn your form. She has set the resin on fire before, and learned from that particular lesson that the smoke detector in her craft room is a good investment. She also agrees with most of the other commenters that the white and red mica powders were probably too opaque for proper curing. But hey! New tool in the arsenal!

[@danielgillespie7899]

The "super white" pigment probably has titanium dioxide in it. It's a very common white pigment, even used in some foods. But it's also in sunscreens because it blocks UV light. That would explain why the surface cured but the UV was unable to penetrate very far into the resin gel.

[@shannahmiller]

Agreed. Titanium dioxide reacts differently from other pigments, including in soap, where it makes a tremendous difference.

[@HenkJanBakker]

Smart deduction. That seems to be a most likely scenario.

[@MmmmmmmmEarHair]

Save the offcuts and do a revers stained glass piece. Have the resin hold them together in between. Keep them glued down so it stays in place properly

[@Shadowmech88]

I suggested this in the first video and I was expecting him to do it here, given he mentioned viewer suggestions. I'm disappointed that he only mentioned the comments referring to it as a jigsaw puzzle.

[@DidymusTB]

He could just add a secondary frame to the cut out file, leave the off cuts in place and pour on the aluminum backing

[@tr1ppl3M]

I 2nd this idea

[@Donovarkhallum]

So just wood with a colorful frame? No thanks

[@VagabondTE]

​@@Donovarkhalluma black resin with wood parts would look amazing and you can color the wood with different stains or watered paints.

[@sum1liteamatch]

Peter, it's more valuable to fail and learn than to get it right. Look at all the discussions going on in your comments, which are as far as i can tell, mostly positive and informative. You have probably saved so many people from so much headache. Thank you for being our guinea pig and showing us that a project doesn't always go right and being an example of how to act decently when things go wrong.

[@Squibbleses]

Very cool. That lemon colour almost looks like it was so opaque it blocked the UV from penetrating all the way through the resin. Also I thought it was quite interesting how the mica resins seemed to almost bloom when you were putting them in there, like spots of mould would, but nicer looking of course. Not sure if that blooming carried through after they cured or not, or if it was just the camera picking it up where it's not so obvious in person.

[@needamuffin]

I had the same question about opaque colorants in UV resin, but waited to finish the video to post a comment about it in case it was addressed. Looks like it was indirectly.

[@SirPhysics]

It could be, but a pigment being opaque to visible light doesn't mean it's also opaque to UV. The same way that glass is transparent to visible light but opaque to infrared.

[@needamuffin]

​@@SirPhysicsI considered that as well. I guess we can't know for sure without knowing exactly what the pigment used was.

[@agent57]

@Squibbleses I see that kind of bloom a lot when making melt and pour soap with mica in it. I feel like it's made from how the mica settles, either from how the liquid was dropped or from the currents it kinda forms as it cures. If this is like the soaps, it stays in the finished piece but might be more subtle than while it's still liquid.

[@deacont3250]

Next time you should make a color key that sits behind the cut out. Just a white image with a letter or number code for each color. Kinda make it into a paint by numbers.

[@eleanorjlh]

Awesome salvaging of what could have been a disaster, and your colour choices at the end were great! I think one thing the copper plating has going for it, over the copper spray paint, is that the laid-down copper softens and rounds off the sharp finish of the plywood and makes it look more like real leadlighting, whereas the paint doesn't really disguise the fact that it's cut wood rather than metal and solder. That said, if the paint is both cheaper and easier, it's hard to argue with that! :)

[@deacont3250]

Ok, I have an odd question for you. According to KZbin, your comment is 21 hours old, but this video was posted 30 minutes ago. How...

[@mfmageiwatch]

​@@deacont3250videos are always uploaded unlisted, then made public

[@deacont3250]

@@mfmageiwatch How does one watch an unlisted video?

[@fthurman]

@@deacont3250 usually with a link provided somewhere private - like patreon or a discord server, or similar.

[@deacont3250]

@@fthurman Oh, word. I always forget about Patreon. That makes sense, thanks.

[@rickseiden1]

Not from experience, but I would suggest using a bigger UV light to cover more area and leave the light sit in one place instead of waving it around. Then, when you have the top cured, you can turn it over and cure it from the bottom, too.

[@NoodleHausColubrids]

The answer to why it curled and you had uncured resin is because the pigments were opaque and you only cured on one side directly, the other had the tinted tape impeding it. Using too much mica or other opaque pigments means the UV light can't penetrate the resin properly and therefore doesn't fully cure. Transparent liquid pigments and much smaller amounts of powder will give you a proper cure. I'd also suggest a light you can set up above the piece (a la Evan & Katelyn) to give a more even/powerful exposure.

[@twistedmyth5860]

Yeah, and a longer cure time. Like you can do opaque but it HAS to be thin, cured on both sides, and cured for longer.

[@stsfuzzybear4613]

Also hit the piece from the bottom up (or when top is cured flip it over and continue curing that side). There is an English man doing a lot of experimenting with UV resin I’ll get his nam and put it here. Watch some of his videos. They are mostly short.

[@stsfuzzybear4613]

Daniel Cooper

[@Kreative_Rainbow]

A lot of people cure UV under fingernail lights for 90 seconds on both sides. The more opaque the color, the less light penetrates. Even opaque molds cause an issue. I'm amazed the blues cured!! 💙 Great job trying new things!! 👏 UV and Epoxy resins are very different animals! 😮

[@azteclady]

Quite likely the white and red pigments were too opaque for the UV to reach the resin. Also, I've noticed that UV resin needs a lot more time under the light than it's advertised for most brands. Lovely dragon, and excellent save, as always!

[@ashrowan2143]

From what I understand it's also best to work in very thin layers with UV resin if you want to make it easier to cure quickly

[@morrigancarroll7115]

Others have covered the issue with translucency with using UV resin, but I just wanted to say that you did a great job with not being a regular UV user! I messed up so many of my early projects when I was learning with it haha

[@Stormryx]

I really appreciate that you let us in on the frustrations of it not working. I think just knowing even the awesome guy on KZbin has the same struggles on projects helps not feeling quite so crushed when hitting a stumbling point.

[@mikkohernborg5291]

The 'oily residue' you get is probably a mix of melted/aerosolized resin from the wood combined with residue of the same kind from the glue used to bond the plywood layers. Plus some other funky products emitted when the laser superheats the wood, creating gases that vapor deposit on the surface of the metal sheet.

[@rosemaryabbott1020]

You know this would make a great craft kit idea for resin just because it does look exactly like stained glass. Lots of resin artists would love to be able to work with a frame like that. Somebody could make some money from manufacturing the frame. I know it had me scratching my head wondering where I could find a frame like that. The tools you have are way beyond what most people can come up with.

[@daalelli]

I love how you addressed the pigment failure. The thought process you went through to work through each problem separately was really well thought through. And the color 'repair' was spot on. Thanks for walking through this on camera, it really taught me a couple things. Do tests on your color ahead of application and keep it as part of the label. You can even keep track of the color certain pigments are under black light or uv and have the piece be a specific look that way as well. Then you could display both ways.

[@donm6578]

That peeled yellow portion was like the ultimate scab peeling experience

[@caseykahler6827]

I love that you actually take the people’s comments into consideration.

[@Wolfgal16]

It's so touching that Ms. Brown has become the voice in your head that makes you try to see the best in things

[@TheForeverRanger]

I like the idea of the UV resin because it is simpler to use and you aren't under a time limit. I do wonder about the cost vs. using regular resin though.

[@Somedude20282]

From what I’ve seen price wise easily triple+ the cost for UV vs 2-part epoxy

[@debramandich1462]

And uv yellows horribly

[@TheDarkPreacher65]

@@debramandich1462 one way to negate the yellowing in the clear UV resin is to add a single TINY drop of blue dye to the clear. Same principle as when you're not wanting 2 part resin to yellow.

[@kinashy8863]

​@@TheDarkPreacher65 purplish blue because regular blue can mix with yellow and make green

[@SenorTunaCan]

Peter, I really appreciate that you'll share the issuess and difficulties that you encounter during your projects

[@lauraw3117]

I’m digging the swirly reds, even though unintentional, they give it a fire/lava look!

[@elitecpudoc329]

Laser cutting is a craft in and of itself. When using UV resin you do need to let it sit under the UV for as long as you can, a quick flash of light isn't always enough. Letting it bake in the sun is always helpful.

[@NickCombs]

Nice job sticking with it :)

[@Oonagh72]

I kind of like the Picasso! Since you plan to go deeper (thicker) with the resin you need to cure it in stages. UV resin can get hot and bubble if it is too thick while curing under the light. Most likely the reason the red and white didn’t cure is because they were too opaque for the light to get through. UV resin does not lend itself to opaque colors. If flipping it over and curing from the back didn’t cure it then it was just way too opaque.

[@susanr3666]

I really enjoyed this video. Great save. You show that a problem can be fixed! It doesn't mean an automatic fail.

[@78jujubs]

been a fan for a while, you're videos always help me unwind after a stressful day

[@NotOnLand]

The brown gunk left behind is likely caramelized wood sugars, as maple is obviously a very sweet wood. It's what gives whiskey its color and flavor!

[@lumare]

this is one of the things I love about your channel Peter and why I've been subbed for years now - you enjoy your projects and you also enjoy collaborating with advice and suggestions from your community to help you enjoy your projects even more.

[@FantasyAddict95]

I love the pattern of the resin cells in the design, it gives it an almost scaled look.

[@karenneill9109]

As someone who has used UV resin in a number of jewelry sized items, a few tips! I use these pigments for UV resin, but 1. You need a WAY brighter light. A nail art lamp is much better. Anything with any opacity, or big projects like that, I will let cure in a sunny place for a couple of days to get really hard. 2. If you want translucent, use alcohol inks (but no white!). 3. If you want to use mica, use several layers- this is way too thick. OR rub it onto a transparent layer, with another layer on top, you can make some neat effects that way. 4. If you want opaque, try UV gel nail polish as a colourant, or buy UV resin pigments. Make the layers as thin as you can. Epoxy resin doesn’t always ‘play nicely’ when layered. As long as the layers are well cured, UV resin layers beautifully. Other tips: 1. Nail art tools are your best friends, disposable brushes, lint-free wipes, etc RULE. Cheap as dirt on Ali Express. 2. It cleans up well with rubbing alcohol 3. It doesn’t stick well to a lot of things that epoxy resin does- especially metal. A super thin coat of clear across the back will lock it all in. (I think the copper plating was ‘rough’ enough, but it can pop off of smooth metal) I’m trying a larger window decoration, using brass flat brass wire right now. Definitely not as fast as this, but alas, no xtool (but lots of wire experience, so we’ll see).

[@t3chn0w1z4rd]

This makes this sort of project actually possible. The UV resin sounds amazing!

[@thatevilducky]

Having one of those machines would mean I would never leave the garage! I could make SO much cool stuff

[@patriciaharkin1571]

That lemony pigment was probably too opaque for the UV light to penetrate all the way through which is why they only cured on top. If you place the entire project on a glass surface and cure from underneath as well as on top it will help. Great result.

[@joshsmith4488]

I really enjoy that you try the suggestions. Also it’s awesome that you show “missteps”. This is one of the best channels on KZbin.

[@branstooka]

Wow! It turned out great! It was very satisfying to watch. Glad you were able to rescue the background😊!

[@asyoz]

You need to get a braer. It's a little rolling-pin-like thing that is meant to push tape or anything sticky onto a surface. Used a lot in applying stickers or such. This will help with applying the tape to the back, you'll just turn the piece over and run the braer over it. Just make sure the braer is wider than the larger pieces you're doing, as, otherwise, it could punch through the tape. You could even make your own braer! (Also, note, braer is sometimes also spelled 'brair' or 'brayer'). With regard to the pigmented bits not curing properly - do pigments go out of date? I'm wondering if 8 years is too long? Finally - I wonder whether you held the UV on the pieces long enough? Maybe put the piece under a UV light for a few minutes, rather than just running the torch over the top (or put the whole piece outside for a while before you un-tape it, even turn it over the the UV can get to the back, that should help). Anyway, please do more like this, it's amazing! :)

[@DivineOmen13]

I love this, I just had major surgery and haven’t been able to move, you used my favorite fictional creature and my favorite colors. You’ve made me very happy thank you.

[@paulpardee]

That is such an awesome design! I liked the white, but once you held it up to the sun, it was clear its failure was a blessing in disguise. It looked like you were just going to fast with too wimpy a UV light. You need like 3 seconds of exposure with a decently powerful UV lamp to really get a good cure. It all worked out in the end, though, and you got an amazing piece of art out of it!

[@rosemaryabbott1020]

I would like to recommend plastic squeeze bottles to pour the resin with. Sunshine also cures UV resin fast.

[@boredjerboa]

Tip/Idea for the cut out pieces, instead of tossing them, you could reach out to a local game store as there's many terrain builders LOVE those bits, I know I use them often in my terrain buildings

[@shaych03]

the leftover bits from the cutout would make for a nice inlay...and also, depending on how small you could cut a piece, you could make some pretty cool box lids with the faux stained glass look. leftover resin could also be used to make fun little cabochons you can use for random decoration on other projects.

[@TotalBoat]

It turned out amazing in the end!! Those other pigments either weren't compatible with the UV cure, or they were too opaque to cure with the uv flashlight. Love how it turned out!

[@peterbrownwastaken]

Thank you!

[@cliffart7398]

it is amazing to me that so many people have the same panic attack/anxiety issues that I have suffered from for over 20 years. Mine certainly was stress related and since I retired I am having much less attacks, but they are still there.

[@Caildyn]

I make little pendants with UV resin - whenever I add pigments (no matter if opaque, ink or translucent) I make sure to always cure the backside as well before removing the tape. That's one of the good things about the clear tape: it lets UV light pass through. Haven't tried it with such a big project yet (my pendant are usually just wire frames of roughly 2 by 3 inches at max) but I really recommend getting a stronger UV light and trying to keep the layers thinner so they can cure completely, even if you added some opaque pigments.

[@RoseKindred]

I would trim and keep the aluminum backing plate. That turned into a work of art. Maybe clear coat it.

[@jcsmith800]

MORE OF THIS PLEASE

[@PixieBulb]

For your first project with UV resin, you did a great job! Others have covered the pigment and curing issues, but I also wanted to flag that some UV resin shrinks more than others. It's worth testing a particular UV resin in your biggest cell (or a close approximation), that way you can account for shrinking issues. Slow curing tends to shrink less, which is why your little torch did so well, I think - but then you need to have the light on it longer. Or, as you discovered - pop the whole project into the sun!

[@IMP1G]

Peter! Just want you to know how grateful we are for the content and the time/effort you out into your channel. Keep it up! Much love.

[@garlicwaffle6146]

Amazing video! Can we get an over the garden wall lantern for Halloween?

[@yobespierre]

if you can work on a piece of glass or a pad of white silicone, you can bounce the UV light around and you'll get a better cure on the bottom. also, definitely get a bigger UV light. there are UV manicure lights you can get that are bigger than those dink little 4" wide ones, and they'll work great for this.

[@katiegrossman2338]

Yeah as a lot of people have said uv resin doesn’t mix great with mica powders. I’d suggest alcohol inks and then using a bigger lamp for longer. The other thing is that the thinner the resin is the longer it needs underneath the light so I’d suggest somewhere in the 5 minute range. If some pieces are still sticky, as you said sun time is great but you can also wipe them down with some isopropyl alcohol and it gets some of it off. My credentials are that I make a lot of resin earrings

[@bellastname1244]

I think the UV resin would work better with translucent dyes for the colors instead of pigments that go opaque. In my experience, UV resin likes transparent dyes the most since the light can pass through and cure throughout. With more opaque pigments it cures and creates a sort of shell and it can be harder (and sometimes impossible) to get the middle cured because light doesn't reach it. I think in this case since it's such a thin piece it can still work (if a bit messy since you needed to peel the back tape and put UV light on that side as well) and those specific pigments just didn't like the UV resin on top of being opaque. Honestly though it came out looking pretty dang good!

[@B.McAllister]

I love that you take your viewers ideas/suggestions and put them to the test. Even if you know/pretty sure it won't work but still do it anyway to make it a teachable moment is awesome. So glad I found this channel. You and Mrs. Brown are amazing and I am a lifetime subscriber. As long as you keep making videos, I'll keep watching. I wish I had a shop of my own to do these kinds of projects but I just have to live vicariously through your endeavors. Thank you for the content!

[@shawnholbrook7278]

Good save, lovely dragon piece; and I really like that you show the ups and downs of crafting. I am amazed the paint worked. I really liked the look of it. I thought the uv resin would be too thick to cure , but happy surprise! It did much better than I expected. I am more likely to try that now. Thanks.

[@edenfeuchtwang]

Can't wait to see the next installment! Its great getting to see you try something new out and then seeing how happy you get when it works!

[@DanetteBall]

I’m gonna comment to make the algorithms like you. I really appreciate the detailed look into so many experimental techniques.

[@katsbreez]

We're loving this series and hope you do more!❤

[@X2XImTheNewCancerX2X]

Everyone else has already pointed out the 'too opaque to cure' bit, so I have suggestions if you want to use UV resin more in the future. I've found that a lot of pigments that are labeled as being for UV resin tend to fade A LOT in a relatively short amount of time, so I usually use VERY SMALL amounts of mica powder or, like, a single drop of acrylic paint. Basically, once the pigment is mixed in, if you scoop some of the resin up on a popsicle stick and hold it up to a light (just a regular, non-UV light in this case), if you can't see through the resin, it's probably too opaque to cure properly. Similarly, if you put UV resin in silicone molds, they have to be transparent molds or else the light will have trouble reaching the bottom of the mold. And while it wouldn't have worked for a piece this big, for smaller pieces, UV/LED nail lamps work great.

[@silentferret1049]

I think for the best stained glass outcome, UV resin is really good for ease of use but if you need more opaque colors then a slow cure resin might be better for that. Also dyes giving a translucent color can be combined with micas in varying amounts to give more effect to the glass and even just mica only at the far end. Ideally having the tape on the back is good but after curing the front, you might flip and cure the bottom to make sure its fully set up. Lots of stained glass types are used from clear, tinted, opaque, mixed opaque, mixed opaque/tinted, streaked (where the glass is pulled in a certain direction) and textured. All of them give different effects and uses in the glass with the light to get the right color play when lit up. Most of that can be done easily with resin while others a mold will have to be used in some fashion.

[@ellyurbane8360]

My experience with uv resin is its best when it is clear or not opaque, if the uv light can't pass thru it, the resin won't cure properly. That said you are the one that got me into experimenting with resin!

[@TheBitPunch]

Thanks for the new vid, Peter! Always love seeing what you’re up to. 🙂

[@Spiralem]

5:50 To cut with left hand, you need a pair of left handed scissors.

[@amycagle5793]

Glad you liked the resin tape. I've seen other artists use it. That is a cool technique to make pho stained glass. As for the UV resin, it is not uncommon for some pigments to react poorly. Also, the darker (thicker) the pigment, the more it will take to cure it. Translucent colors are best.

[@FallingTwilightVT]

Different kind of project, but I keep the pieces because what I do is make coasters and such by cutting identical patterns out of different contrasting woods and swapping pieces between them. I cut out thin circles of a neutral wood to act as the base, then glue the patterns down on top. Made some very pretty Star Wars coasters by using padauk and aspen for the Rebel symbol, aspen and wenge for the Imperial symbol, aspen and mahogany for the Jedi symbol, and padauk and wenge for the Sith symbol. Get yourself a bunch of 1/8" thick woods with different colors and grains and try it out!

[@yourhighschoolenglishteach8405]

by showcasing what doesn’t work (as well as what does) you are getting much more out of your experimentation!

[@meanbean98]

panic attacks are no joke but you can over come... love your videos wow im so blown away on how cool your channel is

[@BettyOs]

Love these. I could watch resin stained glass all day.

[@tahsyr]

Hello internet friend! I'm glad you are in a place where you can share your creativity again with us ❤

[@The_Ashling]

You could also cut a pair of super thin frames to spray and glue on top to help define the copper again if you need to sand the resin flat due to imperfections.

[@CadChamberlain]

Honestly the shifted pieces look incredible

[@kennedymeekins7001]

"I'm positive that I'm totally upset!" Omg, FELT SEEN HEARD AND SUBSCRIBED 😅 But also, loved to see the final result. Super excited to see all the new items worked! I'm hoping to try this with these products, as we have them, with a kingdom hearts design for my nibling! ❤

[@pogostix6097]

Man that was a bummer, it was looking so pretty! Glad you managed to save it! And I agree the blue is nicer than the yellow. I was gonna drop some hints about my own experiences with UV resin but people beat me to most of them; only thing I haven't seen said is UV resin makes a LOT of heat on its own, so you want to use it in small quantities. I wouldn't go much bigger than what you're working with here. I think this would totally work with transparent pigments and stronger UV lights. A UV flashlight is OK for small things or "tacking" stuff into place but you want a big UV Gel Nail light or stronger. And I've had better luck curing things for twice as long as the bottle says, because sometimes it cures sticky on the surface and that seems to help.

[@thegoodrichlife2223]

So, this is pretty much exactly like gel nail polish. And from experience I have some tips. With opaque resins, paint very thin layers and cure each layer before adding another. Then also cure from the back through the tape. As the resin is opaque, the top layer will cure under the UV light, but then the light can’t penetrate through the opaque substance to cure any other liquid resin underneath that layer. Using all transparent resins will allow UV light to go through and cure all the way through. Maybe get some UV nail lamps to cure projects under. They’re cheap and have timers on them, because the longer you leave the UV on one spot, the better it will cure. So that might work better than using a light you have to move around the piece, as you can make sure all areas get the same amount of exposure.

[@SorcererDragon]

really sad when i see creators still partnering with better help after all the harm they have caused. I guess even when that kind of thing blows up, it doesen't reach everyone.

[@jamesbecker7175]

Full time resin artist here…toothpicks are amazing… the extra long cocktail toothpicks are my go to tool for “drawing” in my resin pieces.

[@peterbrownwastaken]

They're a GAME CHANGER!

[@janisi9262]

I agree with other commenters: the pale yellow and, to a certain extent, the red, were too opaque and the light didn't penetrate past the surface. A stronger light or longer curing time would fix that. The peeling/curling is similar to what is seen with gel nail polish when an additional coat is painted over a coat that isn't fully dry: it wrinkles. That brings me to another thing I wanted to mention: gel nail polish could be used for something like this. It's way more expensive than buying UV resin in a tube, so maybe only do that if you already have it laying around. There is something called building gel that is very thick UV resin, used for creating false nails with the help of a form, which could be interesting? I'm not a nail tech or any kind of expert; if you want more info on that I'd recommend Suzie of Nail Career Education here on KZbin. Also: You can use clear packing tape to create things like small molds or backings for resins and acrylics.

[@the.scorpio.wonder]

That came out so much better with the translucent blue 🔥😍

[@russb257]

The older pigments weren't an issue of too old, it was too opaque to let the light through. If you need/want an opaque color in some areas use epoxy resin for those areas, they will work with the resin tape.

[@sharkloving_aquarist]

I get so ungodly pumped when you post

[@CluelessTheLlama13]

Haven’t watched it yet. Commenting for the algorithm. I love all of Peter’s videos anyway. Two thumbs up in advance.

[@mr.dahliaking.202]

Peter I am really impressed with your efforts here! it really does look amazing! I wanted to give you an advice if you are going to keep working with such resin. You should make a wooden box with a door that you could insert your piece with resin and close the door, and on the ceiling of the box install a germicidal tube that makes a ton of UVC. it is much stronger UV than that flashlight and it would penetrate much more effectively. You could install a timer for example 2 minutes for each color and then for the final curing 5 or 10 minutes for a whole thing.

[@thecourtlyalchemist]

I'd go very light on the opaque pigments- to bring a slightly cloudy effect while using mainly translucent colors instead. That way the UV gets better penetration. But hey, a fixed mistake teaches us more than an easy success. Your save was excellent. I agree that the transparent blue looked nicer than the pale yellow of the original pattern. Outstanding result for your first time working with UV resin. Love that dragon. I just wish we had seen it in a window. Maybe in a future video!

[@diedredunham7383]

To be honest, I like the new color you had to put in where the lemony color was!! I love this one!!

[@rayvelt]

Some tips from me: buy a 365nm UV light (you used a 395/405nm i think) - use translucent packing tape (the blue tape you used blocks some uv wavelenghts so it can''t get thru to the resin - use a syringe so you can forse the resin in the corners. Hope it helps you and keep up the good work 👍

[@peterbrownwastaken]

Thank you!

[@trevann8213]

I know you like doing weird different stuff but I really like these stained glass like videos, some of my favorite stuff visually you've made and I hope you keep coming back to them. These might take more patience to make but I bet they make a good project to just do a couple pours throughout the day and slowly keep coming back to it

[@Mezuzah87]

Long time follower, first time commenter. I wanted to mention that "black lights" are not a good source for actual UV waves. The black light will help start it so you can finish it with the sun/etc, but it is not actually pumping out as much UV as you would suspect. I suspect almost any pigment will attenuate the light, increasing with opacity, in general. This can effect your lights penetration entirely or just increase the amount of UV needed. I would be curious how far you could push it though. If you do more work with UV resins in the future, I might suggest a "lab grade handheld UV lamp" or (more affordably) some UV LEDs. Either could be set up to 1) wave above your work to immediately set and/or 2) you can make a reflective box with the UV source inside (one might call it the UV EZ-Bake) to cure. Can't wait to see your next adventure!

[@ritinkornas5336]

Looks great! Suggestion: after applying the copper paint, you should randomly place back some of the inner pieces of wood in the holes, instead of filling each holes with resin. that would create a nice contrast of material! Or instead of randomly you could put it instead of a specific colour

[@MrMcBill19]

I imagine it just have been crushing when you first noticed the issue. Nice job not letting that stop you. It turned out really cool!

[@VagabondTE]

Oh! You know what would be awesome! UV resin is used a lot to hold flowers, glitters, and tiny things. Usualy in a more clear resin with light coloring. Imagine the Princess Peach but with different tiny flowers instead of a solid color. Or a sundial with your kids baby teeth in the middle. Okay that was a little weird.. but you get what I'm saying.😅

[@MRrwmac]

Peter, Nice save buddy! Turned out really nice!! Thanks for sharing.

[@mlaucer83]

You could also try to use tyvek tape from the hardware store, it’s what people use to seal frames for River tables and such

[@agent57]

Adding more and more mica to the resin makes it more and more opaque, the same way adding white pigment to the peach piece does! Works okay with a decorative piece but it's just not gonna let light through the different colors the way stained glass does.

[@harriettthomas9085]

Love that you are posting more.

[@1sally1288]

You could try leaving all the cut-outs on the backplate and pouring resin in the lines for a sort of inverted design! Might look super with a nice wood grain :)

[@EpiphanyDraws]

the nice thing about uv resin is that as long as the resin isnt too opaque, you can just set it out in direct sunlight for a few hours to cure it

[@grotesqueer]

You should try to make a square lampshade out of two stained glasses and their leftover pieces by pouring some resin into the gaps of the leftover pieces.

[@06LS2GTO]

I recommended for larger uv resin projects, a 200w uv flood lamp. Plug it into your wall, aim it on your project, and go to sleep. If you choose to use such a powerful uv light, you do need to be careful of the resin overheating. Ive never overheated the resin that i use (kisrel brand) to the point where it ruined the resin, but i have overheated it to the point where it damaged my mold.