Making some basic rose accords - PERFUMERY TUTORIAL

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My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Books referenced in this series:
Scent & Chemistry: amzn.to/3udnRhU (new edition available for pre-order: amzn.to/3bMBz54)
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin: cutt.ly/KSFE2iK
Book on terpenes: cutt.ly/CSFzo1Y
Arctander's book: amzn.to/3uNIHGY
Book used for accords (An Introduction to Perfumery): amzn.to/3DssCKN
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Royalty free content attribution:
Video clips: Pexels and Pixabay
Outro music is my own

[@e.rvanrood7373]

Class is in session!

[@sammacer]

Haha

[@bentleycreative6407]

looking forward to seeing your final accord

[@sammacer]

You will very soon :)

[@El_Eternauta]

Hi sam, I would like to thank you for all the information you are providing. I am a bit lost about the absolute percentages of the samples. For example in RO-01 you add 0.516 grams of solvent alcohol. Why do you add alcohol if you have already diluted the rest of the raw materials to 10%? However in rose skeleton formula there is no solvent alcohol. I don't know if in future videos, because im seeing them all one by one, you will explain the final concentrations (or how to calculate) for a perfume but it would be very important to know this. P.S. I am watching absolutely all your videos, I think you should dedicate yourself to teaching, you are really good.

[@everesttong-zhou7723]

have you considered making a video on project ideas for beginners to take on (especially ones you may be able to try with the materials you suggested in your ultimate beginner guide)?

[@sammacer]

No I haven't, but I love that suggestion, thank you!

[@FelicityDiluvian]

Thank you Sam, nothing quite like your videos 😊

[@sammacer]

Thank you, very nice of you to say

[@mohammedshadab769]

What would be a good base for rose

[@hichouification]

what a journey, this video sum the entire perfumery

[@sammacer]

:D

[@MeLiaadoLphsu]

meLiaADOLpHSU

[@kimberlypereira4622]

can anyone name that book

[@MeLiaadoLphsu]

❤😂❤❤ 3:49

[@MeLiaadoLphsu]

❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@aromasfromearth1558]

👌👌👌👌👌

[@Mario-le3vz]

How I can make a nice rose fragrance for incenses

[@sammacer]

I have never made incense unfortunately

[@atmakali9599]

Why make rose clones when it’s not too expensive to buy a lovely rose absolute? There are many variations. I’m just your student and wondering. Thanks 🙏🏻

[@adamgrossman6833]

I consider it rather expensive, but another reason is that natural products will vary batch to batch.

[@atmakali9599]

@@adamgrossman6833 but then so will the accord oils vary batch to batch ? I bought a lovely rose 🌹 absolute for £25. Loving you videos. Really great. Just working my way through them. I’ve learned a lot from you ❤️

[@adamgrossman6833]

@@atmakali9599 I'm not Sam. I don't know if he answers questions here, but I know he does on his discord. An accord will usually be made from mostly or all aroma chemicals. The composition is always the same, so while nothing is perfect, there's much less batch variation

[@sammacer]

@@atmakali9599 Thank you. How much rose absolute did you buy for £25? And yes, it's considered very expensive to use a large amount. And Adam is correct here - the natural will vary whereas the accord will not. Finally, the main reason for doing this is to learn about the structure of rose first hand rather than just to use it as a base. Otherwise I would just use the bases from the first video in the series since they're much better.

[@katyayoshida9550]

Great video. I am now curious about farnesol. I haven’t made a rose accord using this as an ingredient but now I have to try. Also have you tried adding a trace of vanillin in a rose accord? I feel like it dries down very nice with citronellol

[@sammacer]

Nope, but nice idea, thank you for the suggestion

[@katyayoshida9550]

@@sammacer just a touch though at 1% it easily takes over otherwise

[@sammacer]

@@katyayoshida9550 Noted

[@ericwatts8599]

Thank you so much for your video mate -- you've helped me learn a lot. Ive recently become more intetested in rose, so this is great for me.

[@sammacer]

Cheers mate - good luck with your own rose experiments

[@JayMannStuff]

Hey Sam. I'd love to see you add your final rose accord in this series be added to Timbersilk, Hedione, Cashmeran, Ethylene Brassylate and Cedramber. To see what your accord would be like, when given a good supporting structure.

[@sammacer]

That's my hope for the final video in the series!

[@JayMannStuff]

@@sammacer nice. Best of luck. Can't wait. Cheers,

[@zalzalahbuttsaab]

I was surprised at the inclusion of eugenol which made me think of a blue rose. I think the concentration would need to be relatively trace in order to just add a sweetness to the composition. I liked your idea of taking the formulation in a personal direction towards the fruitier side: why reinvent the wheel?

[@sammacer]

Thank you - yes indeed, why reinvent it? And yes, you'll see that in the end the eugenol is in trace :)

[@josepmcomajoncoses5118]

What a great video, super informative.

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@TheBuduig]

Hi Sam, very useful video. Thanks. Quick question: why do you add on top perfumes alcohol to the trial blends as the ingredients are already prediluted at 10% in alcholol?

[@sammacer]

Because I'm looking at the absolute percentage and trying to keep it constant for learning from my trials, i.e. keeping all variables constant except the additional material so I observe only it's effect. By adding extra alcohol as a padding in advance, it's available to replace with additional materials I add. For a real perfume I would probably scale everything up to closer to 20%.

[@TheBuduig]

@@sammacer thanks for the explanation. I assume this lowers considerably the overall concentration of the blend as the less materials you have the lower overall concentration will be. Another approach will be to increase the ratios of the ingredients themselves until you reach 100% in order "to fill the gap from the alcholol". This way you keep the concentration of the blend at 10%. Do you see it as an option? Of course with this you will be consuming more materials rather that alcholol.

[@TheBuduig]

Actually thats not ideal because as soon as you add a new material, you need to readjust the ratio of the current materials and you will lose the consistency. But in the end, for such small trial blends is it really making a difference by adding additional alcholol every time or would not blending the materials themselves prediluted at 10% be enough to give you an idea of the accord?

[@sammacer]

@@TheBuduig Exactly, you've hit the nail on the head there. Yes you can do them all at 10% and loose that consistency for a stronger accord and ease. Most DIY perfumers do that so you wouldn't be alone. I'm a fan of training my nose sensitivity so I don't see the lower concentration as a negative. I also do this when building accords and I'm imagining that the final level in the perfume of the accord may be that low anyway overall to make space for the other raw materials.

[@lakshithakarunarathna4183]

Your really good person thanks to share your knowledge with us 😊 your doing this free very appreciated 🙂👍

[@sammacer]

Thank you