Rose in perfumery - Harvest, production & smell

My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
Shop perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Books mentioned in this video:
Scent & Chemistry: amzn.to/3udnRhU (new edition available for pre-order: amzn.to/3bMBz54)
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin: amzn.to/3oHUjrr
Raw materials mentioned in this video:
Damask rose oil, Bulgarian
Rosessence 184010 (Firmenich)
Rose Givco 217 (Givaudan)
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
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Royalty free content attribution:
Outro music: ScornTrax - FarAway
Infographic icons: Freepic
Video clips: Videvo, Pexels and Pixabay

[@JayMannStuff]

Thanks, Sam, for letting me know that the new version of Scent and Chemistry is coming out. Already pre-ordered it. Also, yeah, I love this video. Hope you could make a video diving into some mid notes, like Cashmeran, Ysamber K, Hedione HC, Farnesol, Helional, Magnolan. While I think you've mentioned some in brief details, the idea of a mid note-focused video and exploring several of the most important materials (and what they do to a perfume) sounds really interesting. Like, if a perfume only had Top and Base notes (a "hollow" perfume), how would adding in some mid notes change it? (I discovered this in the past 6 months, and adding copious amounts of mid notes, like over 50% in my perfume concentrate) tends to be what I like the most. Like, for a men's cologne, adding in Bergamot and Pineapple for top notes, then adding Magnolan, Cashmeran and Hedione HC for the mid notes, and finish with Ambroxan, Calone, Veramoss/Evernyl, Sylvamber (Iso E Super) for base notes ends up creating a very good starting point for an aquatic, citrusy, fresh, uplifting, woodsy men's fragrance. It's honestly not bad at all, and then once you start filling in the blanks with other fragrance notes (for example: Grapefruit, Vertofix Couer, Kephalis, Ginger CO2, Clearwood, AmberXtreme) you can really create a very nice template. Though I always prefer to add an accord of similar notes, rather than a single material. Adding 3 or 4 ambergris materials at lower doses instead of just a single material lends itself to a much less harsh, more balanced, more complex scent. I tend to break down my fragrance into accords, by olfactory group, like "ambergris" or "aquatic" or "ozonic" or "musks". Then I mix the accords in the initial stages of perfume creation. I only tweak the amount of single materials towards the end, if I notice something is lacking or overpowering.

[@sammacer]

Hi Jay. Glad to hear you've got it pre-ordered already! I will sure try to cover more mid notes as I go. I already did a video on Hedione if you want to check that out. As for the rest, I will try to cover them when I get round to discovering them myself. I wish I had more time to explore all of my raw materials properly! The thing I find is that when adding mid notes, while you will improve the performance of the perfume, it's finding ones that fit the smell you want which is the challenge. If you're happy with those smells in the first place then it's a no brainier to add a healthy amount. Your skeleton formula sounds fantastic. It would be great if you could enter a version into the perfumery competition which is on at the moment so I can try it out! And yes, I've heard before that mixtures of similar materials can boost the complexity and depth, so what you're doing there sounds ideal.

[@JayMannStuff]

@@sammacer I definitely plan on entering the perfumery contest. And yeah, I highly recommend you buy those materials I mentioned, if you haven't got them already. Those materials are often listed in the ingredients list in men's colognes. The ones that aren't, are often talked about in perfumery videos and listed in perfume formulas available online. One of my goals with my skeleton formula is to make use of several of the most common, most widely available workhorse/functional ingredients, to help give perfumery newbies a fun and safe place to start. Like, it'll include 90% of the ingredients, leaving 10% to the preference of the perfumer. I'll also include a second version that as an example, includes 100% of the ingredients, to show how the skeleton formula can be used and modified.

[@peewee678]

Nice video Sam, even if I'm not that much into Rose scents myself (yet). I'm relatively new to perfumery and I think Rose is one of the more difficult scents to use to begin with. I like the addition of the well chosen stock video clips (haven't seen that before in your videos); it certainly adds some atmosphere.

[@sammacer]

Thank you! I put a lot of effort into the clips since I thought it might be an upgrade for my videos, inspired by the economics and geography channels. I’m glad you think it was worthwhile 😃

[@dvd7826]

Wow this is really informative 🌹 I hear is the hardest to make

[@fsandraungureanu97]

Do you ever think about the socio-cultural factors that influence how we perceive different scents? If so, does this awareness influence your creative process in any particular way? I’m not sure if that makes any sense the way I just put it. Anyway, I really admire your generosity and professionalism. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!

[@sammacer]

Yes, in fact, this is something they think about a lot in the international fragrance houses where they hire perfumers from different backgrounds to ensure they have people with the cultural scent connotations ingrained for a given project. Working alone, this isn’t something I have to opportunity to think about much since I’m not around people often with different perspectives. I still notice it when I let people of different backgrounds smell things however.

[@katyayoshida9550]

Super excited about this series. I am actually in the process of making a living morning rose accord, and it’s quite a task because to me it smells even more complicated than the rose essential oil.

[@sammacer]

Sounds like a great challenge! And yes, it would be more complicated since some things are lost in the extraction process. Someone else commented you can add extra PEA to make it more like the living flower - I would try that!

[@katyayoshida9550]

@@sammacer great idea, I also noticed that adding less geraniol helps and ethyl safranate is a great addition also

[@simaocarvalho6061]

I find your videos really great - although i don't create perfumes i find your videos really informative! congrats!!!

[@sammacer]

Thank you very much, I’m glad you can still enjoy it!

[@hichouification]

Thank you for bringing the topic of roses. The entire perfumery is connected to 3 roses, Rose(Geranly acetate), Jasmine(benzyl acetate), and Lily of the vally(No natural / we use Lyral/hydroxyciteonelool)

[@sammacer]

🙏❤️

[@Quraan84]

I think Hydroxycetronellal, lilial and lyral have been banned by IFRA. You can use Florol or Mayol or Mimosal.

[@laavaneyasharma2591]

Once again super vdo,as always great info....thanx for sharing ur knowledge. 👍

[@sammacer]

Thanks

[@kijjaz]

Thank you. Rose is my favorite floral. Let's see what we can do with them!

[@sammacer]

💯

[@christieo1761]

Bravo! Well done, Sam.

[@sammacer]

Thank you! This one took a lot of work editing 🙏

[@MrOther888]

I want to get into making cologne but don't know if I am using the right notes together or not. All I know is I want leather, vanilla, smoke, oud, and maybe rose if I can work it in but I think rose is a bit to much with the other scents because it doesn't fit as well but I do not know

[@innostately3323]

Please do a Jasmine Accord video as well as other florals like Lavender, Sage, Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Iris, Tuberose.

[@sammacer]

I hope to do at least jasmine some time. The rose series didn’t do as well is I hoped though so I will probably stick to 1 or 2 videos next time

[@wib6044]

This one is a slow burn. Most people first want to know how to get started. Mixing stuff! At some point down their road they’ll start to dissect what they are doing and find this.

[@juandelacruzfraganciadelac1224]

So to make a 10% how would I dilute it. I do in grams. So if I put in 2.000g of alcohol how much perfume oil should I put to make it 10%?

[@RobertLaTuso]

Does Rose Absolute “expire”? I have a 8 year old absolute which is reddish in color and is still amazingly fragrant on the skin for such an old oil. How come absolute essential oils last so long (I have a jasmine absolute which is still fragrant after 8 yrs?!)?

[@estudiopaoloremedy]

Hi Sam, how are you, nice video , only got Rose Givco and so far I have only used it in male formulas, only to give freshness to the middle notes but at low percentage like 1% of the concentrate so that it only gives me freshness and not feel the smell of roses as I think that the base by itself feels somewhat flat ¿,with what material would you advise me to complement to give it some darkness? Saludos.

[@sammacer]

Hi Paolo, good thanks, and you? Great question. Firstly, I would experiment with using higher percentages. Secondly, short of using the real rose oil, I would suggest that vetiver or oud notes may work well with it and add “darkness”, though of course not in the same way

[@estudiopaoloremedy]

@@sammacer I am good! Thank you very much for the advice, clearly the absolute would give it more depth but it is very expensive for my level of experience. I tried with carrot seeds and well diluted gives a touch to de topy note of de base, now I try with vetiver to see how it goes, thank you very much again and i stay tuned for the second part of the video. PS: Formulair is the best.

[@sammacer]

Let me know how it goes with the vetiver!

[@Beginners07]

Hi Sam can you please help me Some material like lavander we use as middle notes but some time we used it as top notes so how can we identified which material is top and which middle , same as some material used as top , middle and base please help me

[@sammacer]

It actually really simple! All you need to do is put your raw materials on some scent strips and see how long it takes until the smell is gone. A few hours = top note. A few days = mid note. A few weeks = base note.

[@Beginners07]

@@sammacer Oka but sam lavander using as top note in some formulation but in some formulation it is used as mid and base . Basically it is mid note so why lavender used as base and top

[@Beginners07]

@@sammacer Why are we using lavender in three ways? Actually it is a middle note but why we are using it as top note and base note.

[@cassandralyris4918]

*Sillage* ✔ The scent left in your wake by your perfume. 🌹🌼🍃 _Silage_ ❌ Storing ruminant animal fodder so that it ferments and keeps over winter. 🐮🐑🐄

[@sammacer]

Hahaha yes indeed

[@nams37]

Thank you sir

[@sammacer]

No problem

[@franklinfuertes]

Could you cover the infamous “cocaine accord” next?

[@sammacer]

Not heard of that one

[@franklinfuertes]

@@sammacer I hope it tickles your curiosity I ve been working on my version of it. I need to smell or at least ask what it smells like 👀

[@sakinalaasraoui5085]

hi from kallaat magona maroco /miss rose

[@iam_ismell]

🔥🔥

[@sammacer]

❤️

[@justchefmack4188]

Popcorn ready

[@sammacer]

🍿😎

[@harshadbhaipatel5453]

Talk hindi

[@sammacer]

I can’t