Making Stainless Steel Automotive Trim: Metal Hammer Forming Stainless Steel.

[@RonCovell]

Beautiful job! You will like the TM Technologies holder for the Delrin inserts!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you sir. I've read and learned so much from you over the years. It's not often we get to express our gratitude to you for teaching us how. So, thank you.

[@IngeBall]

Hey Ron, TM Technologies has quite a few items, do you have a link to the specific part or a partno? Thx ☺

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@IngeBall I don't imagine Ron is going to come back to respond to your question. I have purchased the short shank tool, hard delrin and light metal inserts. www.tinmantech.com/products/hand-tools/flow-forming/flow-form-tooling.php Stay tuned.

[@NathanNostaw]

Forget making another, that looks good to mount on the bonnet. Noone would ever know how much work went into that just by looking. Nice work.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - much appreciated. It'll be good practice for the next big time suck stupid project on this car!

[@paullatour7012]

Another great video. Learned a lot including the fact that I’m not the only person with an unfinished project going on 16 years!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - I did drive it for a few years after the trim was taken off! But it sure has been in the garage a lot longer than I had hoped.

[@aukanmeister]

You spend a lot of time. That is the hobby. To spend quality time making quality parts. And you gracefully share it with us. I really appreciate that.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you very much! I really do have fun putting this stuff together.

[@BeeTourBo]

Wow! It just shows what a man can do with a lot of blood, sweat and tears… Great job! I’m blown away …

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks. It's fun to learn and to push what you can do.

[@marcjordan29]

I have grown to love and laugh my ass off when finding the things hiding in my garage that i needed at one time. I used to get so pissed off. But if you cant laugh about things.... Thats a bleak way to live. Awesome as always!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Before this started, I spent an entire day searching everywhere is should/shouldn't be...I found epic piles of stuff that I was like...well, why do I have this? Neat.

[@ezacher4634]

So relaxing to watch content like this. Nice break from the insanity in the world right now.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks. I'm glad it's bringing some respite from the world.

[@Talsin1989]

I love how your prototypes are good enough to be the final product!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks. It did turn out great.

[@mopedmarathon]

That’s stunning. Really beautiful work there sir! It takes so much work to make something look like it hasn’t been worked at all.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for the kind words. It was a fun project and I learned a lot along the way.

[@joextext]

I have no idea why I was watching this "first and second part" but I got shocked! He is so cute lol. Great job man!!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad you enjoyed!

[@joextext]

​@@ThrottleStopGarage

[@billarroo1]

Beautiful Job, great technique !! I had a 1949 Cadillac Fastback, the rear fender spears. I had small dents in them, when I got done, I sent them to a chrome shop to be plated and polished, 2 months later when I got them back, they were Warped into a reverse curve by an inexperienced kid that they had polish and buff them, never got them straight !! Great watching a craftsman !!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Exactly my experience. I've finally found a quality plater but they're over 1000 km from where I live. The rest can be trusted for their excuses and poor quality work and little else.

[@CustomJawas]

Makes a perfect 11/10 part... "Remember this is just a prototype" Keep up the insane level of detail!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Cheers!

[@HappyHarryHardon]

I’m in the middle of making the qtr trim and rock guards on a ‘47 caddy. One piece. It’s fun making stuff like this! Great job.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

That sounds like fun. I'm just wrapping up the real hood trim part. Then on to some other little projects.

[@insAneTunA]

I think that you did an amazing job, it looks great as it is already 👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! 😊

[@robertdowns1786]

As always, I am very impressed. Your patience and determination are to envy.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you very much!

[@stytos]

Again - commenting for the 'Almighty Algorithm' - love your videos. I doubt that I'll go into that level of detail when I'm finally able to get my classic car, but it's nice to have these videos as motivation for other projects I can do.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Much appreciated. We must keep the algorithm happy. I'm happy it giving you a little motivation.

[@Puner54]

Beautifully Done!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you very much!

[@cennsa140driver]

Ah, the notorious shop black hole. Every shop has one or two of them. Thanks for the very instructive video.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

It's a weird vortex that only produces the part you're looking for when you've purchased or build a replacement.

[@jonesy2009]

Awesome die design, this would make Ron Covell proud!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

High praise! Thanks.

[@TheBreaded]

That's exactly what I was thinking. This'd be right up Ron's alley. I'm amazed how nice that turned out.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@TheBreaded I've learned from reading every one of his books!

[@alexmanning8710]

Dude!!! Insane patience! I really enjoy your videos. They are informative and entertaining.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad you like them!

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

Sir, I like your positioner, your TIG welding...May I suggest that welding on dissimilar steels, hardened tools and the like, you use ER312 SS filler rod. It is about twice the strength of ER70S and will not crack internally as ER70S. A second choice is is ER309 rod. Your welds will not break three times..no not once. Cheers!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for the tip - I'm looking up those filler metals now. I've got some ER309, but no ER312 and I think the ER309 I've got is 1/16". Next time I'm at the welding store or when this took breaks again...I'll see if they have any ER312.

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

@@ThrottleStopGarage 1/16 is my go to size for these alloys. A good rule of thumb is use 309 for non hardened [will hand file] unknown steels. Use 312 on ANY hardened steels. I plan to do a Full video soon on this subject on my YT channel.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@AWDJRforKZbin Off to the welding store at lunch for me then! Thanks.

[@waynespiteri122]

Wow, nice work. Well done.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@OzGecko]

I wish my "practice parts" looked that good! Really interesting process to follow and love the final outcome. You know that as soon as you finish this part, the original will turn up, don't you? Best wishes from Down Under.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Half the reason to start making these things is so the original will show itself...right where I put it. Every time.

[@patrickharrand]

Great video. Thanks for sharing your skills with us.👍👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks.

[@chimpfoos65]

Thats a masterpiece SIR

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@polloloci21]

Dude. Your stuff is top notch.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks

[@yt650]

Very nice especially on your first try with this new set up.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@mikewasniewski4048]

A product called Solar Flux could have been used where you back purged that part. Leaves a good weld, but the flux is hard to remove.Bead blasting works good.Nice!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I just got some the other day from a recommendation. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm told it works great.

[@johngarloff]

Well done! I enjoyed watching the transformation of the part. Thanks!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad you enjoyed it! It was fun to learn a little more in this project. Making a set from 20 ga has also been fun.

[@johngarloff]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Yeah, I bet! This is a new path for me and a huge learning curve around the new tools added to my shop. Your tutorial and others are inspiring!

[@ekim000]

I love that air chamfer tool. That will save a lot of time.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

It really does work better than expected. For $100...a steal.

[@nigeleleven2172]

So you have a link for it? I’d like to get one.

[@MiniLuv-1984]

The perfectionist is strong in this one Luke. Really nice work. Wish I could see the real thing. Long way to drive though from Australia. :)

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You'd get pretty wet driving to Canada. Thanks for the kind words.

[@michaelhoward9322]

Subscribed! Just stumbled on to your channel with this video. Your dedication to perfection is admirable. A prototype part that exceeds both OEM quality and what many of us would even dream to achieve

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for the sub and the kind words. Cheers.

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Well impressed...man I love your application and tenacity

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks...other than the extreme frustration of breaking tooling, the part was fiddly but fine.

[@danharold3087]

I generally find working out the process to be the most rewarding part. Good work and thanks for the vid.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Very true!

[@MegaCountach]

OK, now your just showing off Throttle...............(lol)! Seriously though, that is simply awesome work! Keep em coming... cheers, Doug

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - someone in the comments of Part 1 said the thing would be all distorted when welded. All the motivation I needed.

[@danreagoso3939]

Stunning is a good evaluation !

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@tomuchfunwithgas846]

I would think that is about as close to perfect as one can get. So much better than Volvo can mass produce. You can be proud of your handcrafting talent.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - it was a challenge to make.

[@terry3665]

Next time anneal the stainless first, I have done a lot of ss reshaping for top chops and it makes a huge difference. Also look up a product called Solar flux, it's a powder that you mix with rubbing alcohol into a paste that you brush on the backside of the weld, it saves you having to mess around purging and leaves a beautiful inside weld!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for the tips Terry. The A2 304 sheet I have is annealed and it moved really easily. I've made another now (video coming) and the challenge was with the flow forming dies/tooling not the material.

[@soupclassicmotoring]

Beautiful, dude :)

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Mate.

[@rs1329]

Nice work. Wow you have patience

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks 👍

[@coldwarmotors]

Fantastic! Very impressive piece. Thanks for the video! (...and Ron Covell; whoa!) All the best from here.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Many thanks!

[@Hutchy45445]

Great job! 👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@grumpymealey2441]

Outstanding great job love the passion and the work you do

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you very much!

[@animal_engineering]

awesome stuff, very cool process for making the part. it turned out awesome.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@kentmckean6795]

Well, as a "learning piece", that was very, VERY good. Once you get a "perfect" piece, you can sell that learning piece to someone in the club!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'll keep that one as garage art!

[@GoGoGarage]

Nice workmanship!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@joell439]

Wow - stunning results. 👍👍😃👍👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@brentbaker954]

Such an underrated channel! Love the content

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you 😊

[@monadking2761]

Looks great, nice job!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@ogaugeclockwork4407]

Nice work! Huge amount of effort!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks a lot!

[@surffoodkulture]

amazing work, thanks for showing us

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for watching.

[@lesgaal4017]

Very nice work mate just a bit of advice you second guess you're self no need to, you're fussy and that's a great thing for a tradesman to have. You are teaching others how to do it properly and that's a great thing also to have patience and take your time. Great program from down under.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - when you send your fussiness out to the world, you never know what comes back.

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 beautiful craftsmanship! Much respect

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you very much!

[@garethmcgregor1621]

Well done man, that's awesome.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@tomthompson7400]

well done , nice job.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@brianbuckle2635]

Fantastic work.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@stumblinggmc6845]

Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@timcarlisle9598]

Great work.your a patient man

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks.

[@cowfrank]

Could possibly make an attachment to mount a ball bearing of varying sizes on your "hammery bit" loved watching the process.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm working on the 20 ga ones right now and I have had to do exactly this to get it to work. Not recording the process. But I'm using ball bearings welded to old punches.

[@fredygump5578]

That looks great! When I was doing stainless fab, I was told to tack every 1/8". And that was for 14ga stainless. I didn't tack that close on work I did, but I might for this project.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'll give it a try on the next one. Heat control was tricky.

[@fredygump5578]

​@@ThrottleStopGarage I would recommend trying a pulser, or manually pulsing if you don't a pulser on your welder. I like 1 pulse per second. I haven't welded much thin material like this, so I'm not sure of the exact technique. But pulsing on stainless is almost magical when you get it right!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@fredygump5578 The welder has a pulser (It's a Miller Dynasty 200DX) but I rarely use it because I don't weld enough. I end up feeling rushed or lagging - if that makes sense. When I was welding all the time I could get in the grove - now I'm more or less holding my breath.

[@Metal2Mesh]

It's GLORIOUS!!!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@yurycz8933]

Nice work👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks ✌️

[@martinsteele3259]

Looks Amazing!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks.

[@merbesfield]

Amazing job.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@tombeasley1943]

I like the channels new sponsor, Tim Horton. I hope they paid you well. LOL

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

They fuel the weekends!

[@ruzterruzter]

I know what you mean about trying to video or take pictures of shiny things! I learned that from the coin rings I make. piece looks amazing, Subbed and look forward to future videos

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks. It was really hard to get the thing on video. More fun to come.

[@ArtistryEngineer]

@@ThrottleStopGarage The "secret" to lighting chrome and cars is that you need to light what it reflects rather than the item so much. White foam core and black duvetyne are the way to go to design the perfect lighting reflections.

[@danielkane1770]

Nice work

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks

[@ODGColornChrome]

Awesome work 👏

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@charlesshamseldin9555]

Outstanding work bud

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you kindly

[@AndyFromm]

Looks great, its unbelievable how many don't back-purge.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

And the number who come up with reasons for not doing it...honestly, stainless welds so much better with the purge line going. There is what...200 ml of volume and I purged at about 1 LPM. Backside is smooth as silk.

[@AndyFromm]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I have seen some welding samples each way and its night & day both looks and strength.

[@g-ten5879]

Nice Job,

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@handleymachine4421]

Great work! Super informative videos. 👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad it was helpful!

[@curvs4me]

I absolutely love how you are not afraid to try absolutely anything when it comes to a build. I want to strip my 944 and make molds for an entirely carbon kevlar body. Including pillars rockers and floor. I can use two part foam, plaster, and sealer to smooth out anything and avoid negative angles. It will bond together in large pieces. I've got it all figured out, I'm just scared 🐣🐣🐣

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Kurt. I think failing a lot is just part of the process. I've got a vision - like yours - and I'm picking away at it until I'm happy. In the end - that's all that matters. If you've got questions - I'm happy to help if I can.

[@curvs4me]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Thanks. What do you think about doing everything in Fiberglass first? It would definitely be cheaper if it goes bad lol. The Aussie Bill Peterson has taught me more about composites than my decades of experience has. He smashes the myths of composite builds. I don't remember his channel name but he makes doors, hoods, front ends etc out of carbon using fiberglass molds he made from the original pieces. I'm still leary but time waits for no man.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@curvs4me composites are composites. Working with carbon fibre isn't all that bad if your fibreglass mold is good. I have only done a few wet layup parts and all my panels were made using resin infusion. Carbon fibre is stronger with just enough epoxy and no more. In the tests I've seen, a wet lay up will not be as strong because there is too much resin. Not really a problem for most applications. But something to think about. The fibres also need to be compressed. I know Bill does this (he just wet lays it and then uses a bleeder fabric when he pulls the vacuum. Don't forget - he's got 40 years experience doing this all day. So he does make it look easier than it is! Still not rocket science - but I did learn a lot and it's more nuanced than I thought.

[@curvs4me]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I'd definitely go with infusion/ vacuum bagging as well. I'm looking for bulk buy on Spread Tow to minimize the resin pools. The T1000 seems like a good tradeoff between weight, strength, and price. Expensive compared to generic carbon but strong enough to use much less with cores

[@robertbarre4400]

I'm from Sweden and have had many Amazons. Don´t know if the early ones from 1955 was made of crome or stainless, but the trim you are working on was made out of aluminium.The last Amazons in 1970s made had this particular trim deleted. Smooth hood so to say... But then anyway - your efforts makes for good youtube videos. You´re doing good!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Hi Robert - I'm not sure about the learliest cars but I do have some parts (like the cowl vent) from an early car and it's completely different and much nicer than the later parts. I have always liked the hood trim, but the aluminium part is not very nice next to the gold letters - now that was a nice touch. I'll keep at it if people like you find it interesting/useful.

[@insAneTunA]

I was thinking, if you get a new part for the hammering, maybe that annealing the part before you use it might help, and after that give it some reinforcement welds before you use it. But do not quench it after welding.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Hammering a new set this weekend. The A2 is annealed at the start and I was happy with how it moved. The strips for mounting will be welded in and should be decent.

[@insAneTunA]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I was talking about annealing the tool. So that it becomes less brittle. Maybe that it will last longer.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@insAneTunA Ah, with you now. I think there is a dissimilar metal problem between the hardened shank and the cup part. I think the one I've ordered is made from tool steel and is for sure heat treated.

[@northernoz]

Great video

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@murraymadness4674]

That looks like a very hard and expensive way to get this done! That is my usual way, but we have 3d printers now, and you can 3dprint a mold and use a press to form the stainless to the shape. I haven't tried it myself, but will likely soon, as my 56 nomad is missing the very rare trim peice unique to the car that sells for $1000 these days, as only used ones available. I remember being shocked when they were $400 each!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I've done a little embossing with 3D printed dies...It would be very difficult to get this part made that way. You'd be making it in 2 halves at the least. This took some time but was pretty inexpensive. The results were fantastic.

[@tommiprami]

must be pain in the ass to be a perfectionist :) Good job man...

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - it's not perceptible to me...but to those around me.

[@tommiprami]

@@ThrottleStopGarage good for you then 😂 I was just thinking that I am really envious of your skill level, and mainly "just go and (try to) do it" attitude. Impressive to me anyhow...

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@tommiprami Thanks. It helps to have a wife that mocks me for my insanity.

[@tommiprami]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I am maybe to too stupid to have any reaction of the wife's "suggestions"

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@tommiprami LOL - my wife savagely teases me about my perfectionism. Like when I showed her the trim, she instantly pointed out that the front didn't fit the body perfectly (it wasn't finished yet...hair of a gap) just because she knows it will drive me nuts.

[@samperras]

Frigen amazing from Sydney Australia

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Cheers. Hope to get to visit Australia one day.

[@sethveith4482]

You went through a ton of effort for that. I'd have used those dies to press an aluminum part or cast a brass part and had it chromed. But your end result was beautiful.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks. No chrome plate companies local to me...it'll do nicely.

[@charleseagle2108]

Very awesome job. Amazing. So I found your video because I have 2 pieces of 65 ranchero trim that I need welded to create a longer piece of fender trim, or if I need to try and recreate it? 5 ft long I am thinking welding the two halves together is probably the better option. I am just wondering what welder, material, tools, etc I would need to accomplish mending these together. I really appreciate your thoughts.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I've got a Miller Dynasty 200dx. Low amps, fine filler and patience is what is needed. For the stainless, I use a 1/16" CK gas lens. This was welded at 30 amps...maybe a bit less.

[@charleseagle2108]

Thank you so much for the reply. I really appreciate it.

[@byfunkyoid2917]

First time to your channel and wow I’ve learnt so much! New sub here.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks and welcome. Always happy when people find the information useful.

[@davidr4332]

Beautiful job everyday a school day awesome .

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you 🤗

[@amok42]

That turned out very nice. Makes me sad to look at the dinged up original part on my 122S.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - I'll find the original one day.

[@n1352-m1i]

stunning it is ... but I'm still curious : how many hours ?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Now that the dies are done it isn't that bad to make more. It still takes about 6 hours total for a finished part. 20 hours to develop the tools and make the first part.

[@ziggassedup]

Excellent.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Many thanks!

[@eugennomatterr7311]

Hi you can give us a tour of your workshop, I think someone will spot missing trim piece. Also on tool, what about use some rubber feet on mold piece, it can dampen shock on tool.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - I have no doubt that I'll find it one day. Eagle-eyed viewers would certainly help. That's a great idea with the rubber on the bottom. I'm looking into that for the next set.

[@VacFink]

Very nicely done and you have a new set of problem solving skills added to the arsenal. I wonder if that tool would break less if you hollowed out a long delrin piece leaving it solid at the tip and slid it over just the shaft, like a long bushing over a sleeve. The delrin might 'bounce' a bit on the end of the shaft and save the tool from self destructing. To anyone knocking the effort, they miss the point. I understand entirely, I just bought a Onefinity CNC (Canadian made) in part to make my own tail light lenses and other trim and interior bits. I can't buy what I want or can imagine so will learn how to make it and do it myself.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm going to wait until the TM Tech one comes in. Proper tool steel and the shorter, larger diameter shaft may be the key. I'm going to be doing a few more of these sorts of parts and don't want to spend 50% of the time fixing the tooling.

[@186scott]

Nice work and that is a piece of artwork in its own rights and just wondering if it is possible to use only the wooden buck to hammer form the part? And the first set of dies that you made you could fire harden the wood to remove the softeners of the wood

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - I don't think the first dies were hard enough to take the beating that thicker stainless needs to stretch. I don't know if you can further harden MDF - my guess is no. I don't think you could form the part using only the wooden buck. Certainly not against the buck - it wouldn't be strong enough. You could work out how to form the metal using the buck as a guide, but it would be slow and probably wouldn't work very well. The idea with this hammer form is that you're getting the shape out of stretch only.

[@mattparker83]

"just a prototype" that's an amazing finish, so much bette than anything that you would get as a final finish product 👍🏻 If you keep on putting so much effort and work into each individual item will you ever get the Volvo finished and on the road 🙈😜

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Ah, but I will get it finished...crazy enough to start, stubborn enough to finish. LOL.

[@michaelevans7013]

Well done looks great the 20 Guage is going to be tougher to move. Perhaps cut back on the overhang on the inside of the part to make relieve easier. Perhaps a piece of 6mm thick washer and bolt where you had the clamp at the end might help. Lots of effort. Would welding the part from the inside before trimming everything off not make assembly simpler. Allows a finishing weld on the outside again.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

The 22 is really easy to move - you've hit it with the problem in the tight radius at the skinny end - the draw and change of direction is the problem. So I will trim the top side (make a slit) and allow it to form into the bottom. Welding from the inside would be super hard. No where for the torch, filler or fingers. That part of the process worked as planned.

[@alanmony1582]

I've got one Craig. All you had to do was ask!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I could have bought a new one...they're just not that nice.

[@philiprogers5772]

beautiful!!!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@spiderbrandt4066]

Love your work Mate , now my 46 Olds needs some Stainless Steel work are you available

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Sorry, only working on my projects. No time.

[@spiderbrandt4066]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I was Joking I'm in Australia , But I do like your work

[@josedelao9124]

Im wondering if the wooden moulding can be replicated in aluminum in a CNC machine and then alkaline copper plated then ither chrome plated or nickel plated i know it will be more expensive but it is onother alternative?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Sure - it could be scanned and replicated in any material - it could even be 3D printed in stainless.

[@romocolan]

beautiful, which craftsman👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you very much!

[@mechanical1955]

I used to this for a living years ago , have you heard of electro polishing , when stainless is welded the process burns the nickel out of the weld , electro polishing removes the iron content that can rust and just leaves pure stainless steel , a cheap and effective process that can be DIY

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I've heard of it but not experimented with it. It does sound like a thing I have to look into for the final part.

[@kathysarmcandy1992]

I think, based on my limited weldering experience and my own tool making, there's some decent carbon in your bits and they'd both like some preheat-even being small parts, and a tempering cycle, say in a toaster oven at 400F to stress relieve them. And an appropriate filler. Maybe knock the flux off a 7018 rod.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Yes - I am about to make the next set and if/when the tool breaks, I've got some ER309 for welding dissimilar metals. I also got the proper tool from TM Technologies yesterday.

[@kathysarmcandy1992]

@@ThrottleStopGarage flow forming bit. check. and only the price of a Snap-On tool. ouch.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

​@@kathysarmcandy1992 Then add 30% on the price for the Canadian dollar and the shipping. I think the total with tooling was north of $250 for me. It is a really well made part and I'm toying with making a quick video showing the two different tools in action.

[@ravinperera4255]

Excellent!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Many thanks!

[@siem8160]

As usual, your pieces are true pieces of art, a real jewel. Why you haven't made it in carbon... machined carbon ;-)

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - you'll see. More to come soon, but I will just say that I've got more trim to make and this time you can't buy the parts.