Making the BEST Insulated Subfloor for my Ford Transit Van Conversion (PT. 2)

[@michaelschneider-]

+1.. Very nice workmanship .... A pleasure to watch.

[@InspiredByBrad]

A super sticky sheet of closed cell foam (ex. Noico brand) 4mm or 8mm pressed firmly against any exposed sheet metal can effectively create an airtight vapour barrier and add just enough insulation to prevent any cold sheet metal from condensing water. Although tricky to install into the floor grooves, it might be possible to angle cut it and get good coverage. The key being to cover and insulate all interior sheet metal. Even with the air channels under the floor, even with fans, the sheer cold of the bare sheet metal will condense a lot of water in cold weather. It's essentially like a dehumidifier. Air flow pumped over a cold metal surface = condensation.

[@danwinterfeld9030]

I'm doing it the way you laid out. i love the idea of having a drainage plane under everything. nice!

[@AJourneyOfYourSoul]

That floor is solid! Great job.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Thank you, thank you! 😊

[@henrietthopson1447]

Really fun to watch u & dad interact, so cute😊

[@ahmadusmankhalid3393]

I like the way you are so much honest about your mistakes and genuinely talking about it in your videos. That's how we are also learning a lot about van conversion from you. Thanks for this video.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Thank you Ahmad!! It's a bigger compliment than you might guess to hear that you appreciated my honesty.🥰

[@TheBdunk17]

Second this. Nothing is worse than a video that doesn't share the struggles for the viewers to learn from. I also love how you explain why you do many things you do because, for whatever reason, I can not blindly follow directions without knowing why I am doing something. The only knock I have on your videos is the height that it has set my wife's expectations for my work :D. You have some skills I could only dream of possessing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@jebuff]

Thank you! Currently planning my Transt build and you've had a big impact! Particularly the single center subfloor sheet, rather than joining 2 halves with a center seam... makes so much sense. Gracias amigo!

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Thank you! I thought it made a lot of sense too! 😉 It's held up absolutely rock solid, even unfinished. Still zero squeaks!

[@USARoadtrip364]

Great job! thanks for sharing your idea for Ford transit remodeling.

[@GTASpuds725]

I was going to ask what size sheet metal screws you used and after watching the video again, saw you used 1 1/4" star drive deck screws (visible at 10:24 in the video--- any issue driving them into the aluminum (besides having to pre drill the holes)....

[@ErikJohnson2020]

None whatsoever. Just make sure your predrilled holes are somewhat smaller than the screw shaft diameter.

[@a.kasper7186]

You are so detailed and yet it is fun to watch. Thank you for the breakdown on price, time, why you used the method and materials you choose and what you would have done differently. Very informative!

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Thanks Ashley!!

[@MrksGrsh]

Super cool and informative videos. Really good content 🤘🏻

[@JesseRoamsFree]

Thank you for all the information!

[@prophetseven728]

I never understood making a huge Template. I do not do it remodling my homes. I just messure and cut where I have to and keep going. Funny mine does not have side structures. I just putting the flooring over the Van Floor. Wood, Cork and flooting Lifeproof. Im not going under the Cabnits as they are already installed from the factory. Im basically doing what the factory doing. but instead carpet. Im adding the cork and than Vinly floor. I am also running water proof strips along side of the cabints.

[@GirlsGuide2Packing]

Looking good, Brother! I can't wait to see the flooring you put down next. It's coming together so well, dude. Love the mad scientist lab coat, by the way.

[@bigjoe2458]

You did a great job. Maybe a bit of overkill, but good. Like your shop

[@aaallllen]

I'm still in the planning phase. I was thinking about just using plusnuts to attach 8020 to walls, but I read a comment about thermal bridging of metal to metal. So when I was watching Part 1 and the aluminum to the bare floor, I was wondering if your floors were going to be cold. I'm 6'3 and do a bunch of snow adventures. So thinking of some minicell filler in the grooves, but with some gap for air flow. Then a R6 1.5" R-Zip floor and some thin waterproofing like vinyl or linoleum/marmoleum. Some companies sell the r-zip cut out w/ grooves for the channels to probably knock down those areas to R4 for that 1/2" of extra height. There are so many decisions to make.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

The thermal bridging seems to be about a 1-2° (F) temperature difference as measured with a lazer temperature reader aimed directly on the heads of the screws I used to attach my plywood floor to the aluminum rails vs measuring the temperature of the plywood floor surface in the middle of two aluminum rails. Thermal bridging is much less of an issue vs the overall insulation of your entire system.

[@themikeporter]

Thanks, liking your videos! About to do this whole thing myself next month. I have a vin on a 2022. Starting to feel like I better finalize my plan. :)

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Meh, plans are overrated. 😉

[@RealtorNewBernNC]

Hat makes a difference: yeah....I had chemo. People asked if the wig was hot (July August in NC) but with no hair it was a ...breeze. Get it. Loved part 2 also. It was like waiting for the sequel to a novel.

[@jetlee9536]

Thanks for the video. I’d love to build my own custom van in the near future.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

You are so welcome! And you can totally do it! All you need is a plan and a lot of patience!

[@michaelgiorgio7447]

a workspace so clean you could make semiconductors there 🙂

[@effie2206]

Solid floor. I have to admit I never understood why most van builders are filling those valleys on the van floor, maybe some additional insulation? most are using wood down there, at the lowest point in the van, unaccusable and out of sight, a nice place for mold to grow.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Yeah, my thoughts exactly. I think in the best case scenario the wood will just take a long time to rot, but in the worst case scenario it could be a disaster and rust out your floor. I figure the fractional amount of insulation gained wasn't worth it in the end, and instead people should probably be using 1.5" think insulation board instead of the 1" that seems to be the defacto choice.

[@effie2206]

@@ErikJohnson2020 By the way, nice work area you got there, it's not like I have to build my van on the street, but nothing close to your shop.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Lol, it's hardly "my shop" - I'm just allowed inside.

[@pandavanlife9042]

Great summary and reflection at the end. Thanks for the honestly about how you feel you could have done better. I was initially going to fill in the floor channels with 1/2" foam board but I like your logic about keeping the channels open so air can get in. I'm now leaning towards 2x2's going across at 16" centers and using 1-1/2" of foam board. The 1x1 aluminum is way too expensive where I am to consider it. Looking forward to seeing your finished flooring!

[@ErikJohnson2020]

I'd be hesitant to use wood 2x2's, but if aluminum isn't an option, then the only other point I'd suggest changing is going up to 2" foam board since you'll already have the space.

[@ExtremePainGames]

Your videos rock buddy. Top class ....

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Thank you! 🥰

[@joeyt684]

My solution was to layer ½"XPS then ½" A-C plywood then "BedRug" polypropylene foam backed automotive rug = R-7 @ 1¾" thick. Keeps the toesies toasty.

[@mikereeder4337]

Yep; great video. Very useful for any brave souls committed to converting a Transit. Thanks especially for your review at the end. I absolutely agree with you on the issue of condensation. However, that makes me wonder; surely there is a way to incorporate a mechanical ventilation system to control the humidity in low temperatures? This is something I am looking at for my build; for comfort as much as corrosion and mould protection. Anyone out there got any clever ideas?

[@nomadicrn7674]

Curious how you plan to access and drop your spare tire/wheel since you put an aluminum bar directly over the key hole?

[@ZillaYT]

Why did you have to paint the wood? For moisture protection?

[@RealtorNewBernNC]

1. Ask Santa for slippers. 2. Add electric heat under a Wayfair runner. 3. and feeling guilty for not making massive templates. We who are more 'chronologically mature' than you appreciate any time saved. Thanks for the GREAT videos.

[@thecorbettchronicles]

Very cool

[@wildwoodovensbbqs]

Great job! Thanks for sharing.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Thanks!! And you are super welcome!

[@RoyboyBean]

What screws did you use to attach the plywood?

[@sandyblakeley5673]

Enjoying your videos Eric! One question, I can't find the dimension for the width of the van over the wheelwell between the panel rids. Can you help? I want to put a teen bed cross-wise at the back, 15" off the floor (20" with mattress). If the distance between the wheelwell is 54" and the wheelwell is 7.5", 8s 69" the available width, or does side ribbing shorten that?

[@theminimalistplan]

Awesome!

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Thank you!!

[@scotttannehill3533]

Hi Eric, thanks for taking the time to record your van build for those of us starting our own builds. I have a question regarding how you solved the transition from the new floor to the existing step i the side door. There is a molded plastic cover on the original build which is great for waterproofing the step. I looked at all your video's to see what you did to finish the stop. I am thinking of cutting the top lip off the molded plastic and then using 2" angle aluminum to cover the edge. Will be tricky. What did you end up doing?

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Hi Scott! I haven't yet finished the sliding door step, however, I plan on making a custom plywood lining for the step, and then a storage cubby underneath the kitchen galley overhang. If you want to do something similar, you won't be able to reuse the plastic cover, or at least you'd have to cut/modify it, but it seems to me it'd be a better finish to make your own ply box and use angle aluminum for the edge treatment, and some kind of waterproof grip tape for the finished surface.

[@kelbymurphy3129]

Hey Erik. I love the subfloor videos! I as have a Transit van that my wife and I are about to start a conversion on. Curious on where you purchased the 1" x 1" aluminum tubing from and the wall thickness or dimensions that you used? Thanks!

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Hi Kelby! Glad you enjoyed the videos! I purchased my aluminum tubing at a local metal shop called "Metalmart", but I'm sure most cities have something similar that tradesmen use for construction jobs. As for the thickness, I'd recommend going with 1/8" thick (0.125), so that your screws have some meat to bite into. On a second trip (didn't purchase enough 1st time around) I mistakenly purchased 1/16ths and that technically also worked but when you're drilling the pilot holes, you can honestly tell the difference, and I felt more confident in the 1/8th.

[@kelbymurphy3129]

@@ErikJohnson2020 Thanks! Keep you the good work.

[@kaleidiatrikos]

Good that you didn’t use polyiso. When it burns it emits cyanide gas. Also, it loses r-value over time, which Home Depot won’t tell you when you buy it. (I’m trained as an energy auditor)

[@justinwells702]

What do you recommend instead?

[@francoisloranger1612]

Great job. I will also build my transit in March. I will do the same structure for the floor. What was your thought for using this particular glue. Was it the strength? The curing time? Have you considered Sika product( Sika bound) or PL Premium 3x or 8x? Concerning the cold on our feet when getting out of the bed, considering that I will also choose vinyl planks, I intend to install a radiant floor ( thin film, electric, thermostat or timer) for these mornings on during the time we are preparing the meals. Looking forward to see your next steps

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Hi Francois, concerning the adhesive, I already had some leftover from my flarespace project, but the reason I ultimately decided to use it was after reading the data sheet for Seal Bond 105 they clearly state it is safe to use with foam board, and I my concern was some adhesives can cause a chemical reaction with foam and will dissolve the foam.

[@jasongaskins3066]

What did you do for the two thresholds? How are you finishing out the floor at those doorways? It appeared you didn’t reinstall the factory ones. Is that for a reason? I’m building out the same van and appreciate your videos. Thx in advance

[@ErikJohnson2020]

I won't finish the thresholds until I put in the finished floor, but I'll be putting in a metal edge guard for both entries, covering the finished floor, the subfloor, and the insulation.

[@ericvbmt]

Great videos! After living with the subfloor for a few months, would you do anything different?

[@ErikJohnson2020]

As mentioned in the summary I'd use 1.5" Aluminum rails and foam boards rather than 1", and I'd make sure to use Polyiso foam boards and not polystyrene boards of I was to do it all over again.

[@vernewinder9626]

I am curious why did you use aluminum

[@ErikJohnson2020]

It's fantastic for the weight and strength, plus it won't rot or rust. However, it does transfer a bit of heat into or out of the immediate floor space. I've measured it being a few degrees colder on the wood subfloor surface immediately above the rails vs in the center of an insulation pannel. If I was going to do it over, I'd probably use 1.5" polystyrene boards, with 1x1 aluminum tube, and epoxy a 1/2" strip of something like hard vinyl to one side of the aluminum tube to act as a thermal break from the van's metal floor.

[@saintbyron5150]

Won’t the foam board “squeak” when it rubs together?

[@ErikJohnson2020]

It would, but that is why we only have non-foam materials touching the foam wherever possible, and in one spot where we had to have two foam boards touching, we used extra foam adhesive between the two pieces to prevent any squeaking (in addition to using foam adhesive on the underside for everything). Hope that helps!

[@saintbyron5150]

@@ErikJohnson2020 I presume you’d know since the original post was a while ago. Thanks for sharing this, and the timely response with us. Brilliant!

[@Thedestressguy]

Hey Erik, I'm so glad I found your videos as we get our Transit in a few weeks and like most, we've being going over many many YT videos and finalizing our build plan. I like your production quality- both of videos and of your build! Lots of attention to detail. And, we agree with your thought process of ventilation. My question is, at the back doors it looks like you stopped either a bit short in length or cut back the plywood so it doesn't come right to the end of the floor "platform" before the step/ ledge that is a few inches lower. What was your thinking for doing this? Why did you leave it a few inches (cm) short? From the camera perspective it looks incomplete?? As we don't have our van yet, so I can't go out and see/ measure. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to following your build process. Robert

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Hi Robert! Concerning the gap between the end of my flooring and the rear doors - the issue is that at the very back, the corrugations stop about an inch shy of the doors, and knowing that I'd likely be resting a number of heavy items right on that spot as I moved them in or out of my rear garage area, I didn't want to risk the plywood chipping or breaking due to a lack of support directly underneath it. To add to this issue, the back also curves or bows outward in the middle, and so any support that you might try and add yourself (like I did at the sliding door entrance) would have to be a custom radius. In the end, since this area is going to be covered by a diamond plate cover anyway, it didn't feel like a worthwhile time investment to gain one inch of flooring in the garage area of my build. Hope all that made sense! Best of luck in your build!

[@Thedestressguy]

@@ErikJohnson2020 OK- Got it. I never thought about heavy objects resting/ dropping/ clunking down on that spot. A lot of force would be concentrated there. And, as we are learning, these vans have some funky curves/ bends/ angles what have to be addressed. Thanks for the speedy response. Keep on putting these videos out for us : ). Looking forward to more of the build series.

[@Thedestressguy]

Heyyyyy Erik!... we are going to be starting our floor install this week and in your video I didn't catch what screws you used. I would assume self taping metal screws but... Could you let me know please what ones you used. Kind and length. Much appreciated. Exciting times!.

[@ErikJohnson2020]

@@Thedestressguy I used an exterior decking screw, self-tapping, with a torx-25 head, I think it was like 1-3/4" long. Might have been Deckmate brand, but I'm not certain. Good luck on your project!!

[@beautybyleanne76]

So what flooring will you put down on top of this? Vinyl plank?

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Yup! That's exactly what I'm planning to use. I thought about doing a roll-on like Lonseal, but the price and the hassle of the install seemed to outweigh the benefits.

[@pandavanlife9042]

@@ErikJohnson2020 I'm interested in your approach to this. When installing vinyl plank in a house they make a big deal about leaving a gap around the outside to accommodate thermal expansion and contraction, so the same must be even more true for a van where you'll see much more varying temperatures. I'm leaning towards letting my vinyl plank float on the floor, and anywhere a cabinet gets bolted to the plywood below, drilling a 1" (25mm) hole through the plank to let it expand and contract with the temperature variations. Your thoughts on this?

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Hi Panda! The "expansion" gap around the perimeter of the vinyl plank flooring is also critical for you to install the planks properly, since you'll need a slight gap to fit the "pulling tool" in order to eliminate any slight gaps between the planks once you start laying them down. Thankfully though, this gap is super easy to cover up with some quarter-round trim or some other decorative trim. Combine that with toe-kicks on your cabinets, and I think you'll find the gap needed is hardly an issue. And from what I gathered of your description, it sounds like your plan is to install your cabinets on top of your plank flooring - which I wouldn't suggest doing, since the physical weight of the cabinets will prevent the planks from moving/expanding. I'd just install your cabinets directly on top of your water sealed plywood, and then anchoring your cabinets to your plywood is pretty straightforward. Honestly I'm not sure if vinyl planks really do expand/contract all that much. From what I've read, modern vinyl planks are quite stable relative to temperature based expansion, but regardless you're still gonna need that gap for a proper install. Hope that helps!

[@bulletproof551]

👌🏻

[@shaun_w]

Hey Erik, glad I stumbled onto your channel today. You and Humble Road have very similar methods. I'm curious as to why you chose to run single sheets length-wise down the middle and then add the filler panels on the sides, rather than running three sheets from side to side (kzbin.info/www/bejne/onKQo4lujNOYb7M)? Thanks again for the awesome videos. Cheers mate!

[@ErikJohnson2020]

Hi Shaun, I'm glad you found my channel too! 😊 As for why I didn't run the sheets sideways, plywood here in the states is most commonly in 4'x8' dimensions, and at 4' wide, you'd actually need 4 sheets to cover the length of the extended version of the Ford transit (165"). That and you'd have nearly 3' of "waste" from all four boards if you lay them in running sideways. w Whereas in my layout, I only used a total of 3 boards, and had very little waste. Hope that helps!