Welding on rusty metal 7018 Vs 6010

[@yurimodin7333]

good stuff, "if its worth welding its worth cleaning" but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do out on the farm etc. Something about stick welding just inspires me. All the other processes are great but the simplicity of it is really cool.

[@mkearn724]

Nice comparison. I was pretty surprised that the 7018 ran and burnt in as well as it did. I usually won’t hesitate to smoke it in through the mill scale, but I’m usually a little leery about rust. Keep the content rollin bro

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Yeah I was surprised at that too. I was figuring it wouldn’t penetrate much. 😀

[@nealesmith1873]

Very interesting testing! I bought some rusty scrap metal today to do some experiments myself!

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Glad to hear you’re experimenting 😀. It’s amazing how much stick welding will actually burn through to make solid welds. Steel that is so filthy mig welds would literally bubble weird mountains of trash right out of the solidifying weld pool can be welded with stick without much in the way of defects. If you start seeing porosity in stick welds in the middle of a bead you know you have some bad material lol.

[@johnmacmillan627]

Another beauty answering questions I had. Thx Greg! Had trouble finding a budget friendly welder that burns 6010 but eventually I did. It is the Yeswelder YWM 211P. Couldnt believe how well it ran 6010

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Glad to hear it runs 6010. It’s hard to find affordable welders that will run it. Definitely worth having the capability.

[@mtraven23]

I have a cheapy needle scaler that does a decent job of getting that flux out of the edges. great video, btw. very helpful for an amateur welder like me to level up a bit.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Needle scalers are a life saver on inside corners and hard to reach areas. I definately should do a video talking about them. I have heard the “peening” action helps to stress relieve a hot weld too, not sure if that makes much of a difference.

[@mtraven23]

@@makingmistakeswithgreg I've heard that too! I think its well established that peening can relieve stress, its just a matter of whether the needle scaler delivers enough force to be effective. if you could devise a method for proving that, I'd certainly watch.

[@peetky8645]

@@makingmistakeswithgreg I read a report on english train rail welds where peening the hot weld increased strength and ductility by like 50% so it can apparently be very helpful. the only downside i ever heard was pits may act as stress foci in some cases.

[@jthatguys]

I need to send you pics of the stuff I’m working on right now. Pipe is so old and scabby, you have to hit it with a wire cup brush just so you can strike an arc.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

That is definitely a job for stick lol.

[@Chevy4Life350]

Im doing something wrong or something every time i weld 7018 1/8 it turns out really thin and tall i have rusty metal only o prep it but Im not going fast at all and 1 time i was testing and i went really slow just enough to not burn a whole or cause any undercut and it still turned out thin and tall please help

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Couple ideas to help, but a few questions first: What welder are you using, what particular rod (size and brand), what amperage is your setpoint, and how thick of metal? What you describes sounds to me like it could be 1 or two things. 1: too low of amperage or too fast of travel speed. If the "heat" isnt there the weld will want to sit like a bead of caulk on the plate. Increasing the amperage will cause the arc to widen out which intern push the weld wider. A weld can't be roped up on a plate if the amperage is high enough to flatten it out. 2: The wrong polarity: 7018 is designed to run on DCEP (stinger positive) or some rods run on AC. With A/c the beads will tend to be a bit more "peaked" than DC. If youre welding on DCEN you will produce a tall weld thats thin and tall. If this is the case change the polarity of the machine and try again. Many other rods will run better on DCEN than 7018, such as 6013.

[@Chevy4Life350]

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Okay I got Vulcan 7018 1/8, With a lincoln 225AC and i would say the metal is bout 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick and I run on 120 amps

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

@@Chevy4Life350 Ok, couple things. Welding on AC tends to produce a “peaked” bead. Basically the weld is more or less triangle shaped. Since you’re on AC you have no issue with polarity. I believe you only have “steps” for amp control, try the next step bigger (probably 135a). When welding thick plate you can use far more heat than thinner plate, so don’t be afraid of amperage. 1/8th 7018 will weld at 135 to 145 amps. If the bead doesn’t widen out you can try to preheat the plate to atleast 300 degrees in a oven or with a torch of some sort. This will drastically help the weld to wet out. Beyond that you can try a different rod. Lincoln’s 7018ac is a pretty decent running rod. I think you just need more amperage by the sound of it.

[@JonasWanted]

What is the name of this black rule?

[@Cptnbond]

I wonder if the results would be clearly different if the parts were really rusty. For example, a trailer frame which does not pass a critical inspection, to be used safely. Cheers.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I will find some real rusty metal soon 😀

[@melgross]

“hanks for sticken around” for a stick video.