Mamod Traction Engine - Restoration and Upgrade - Part 1: Disassembly

The start of my new KZbin channel and the first video of a short series on renovating a Mamod Te1a. In this video I show and discuss disassembly methods with a little fun editing along the way. Making this video has been a fun experience and I look forward to making the rest of the series.
Music credits:
Moon over the castle
Masahiro Andoh
Hall of the Mountain King
Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 Licensecreativecommons.org/licenses/b...

[@CreaseysWorkshop]

Very interesting. I'm looking forward to seeing it restored!

[@Daniels_Projects]

Cheers, this one's going to be a bit of an experiment, but should still be a nice model when finished.

[@gravedigr12]

got one of these as an heirloom thankfully it's in amazing shape just needs to have one spot re threaded and a tiny bit of black touch up paint on the chimney

[@ddrumvds9142]

Awesome video I'm fairly new to the world of steam engines, rollers, etc your videos have been really helpful thank you

[@Daniels_Projects]

Glad to help, it's a great hobby, I must get on with it! Cheers

[@Jingleboy14]

I appreciate this video, very useful information and presented expertly. Would love to see the follow up videos too

[@Daniels_Projects]

Haha so would I! I've done most of the filming, just a bit more then it's onto editing. When the government announced a 4 week lock down (New Zealand) my employer said that he had been "reliably informed by people in the know" that it was going to be a minimum of 8 weeks. I pulled out a few old projects (like this) and made a bit of progress on all of them, then 4 weeks later I was back at work, with still the same number of un-finished projects! Thank you for your kind comment, I'm going to really try for July!

[@danwebster14]

Can't wait to see it fully restored. I'm going to restore mine soon, so your videos will be a massive help 🙂

[@Daniels_Projects]

Thanks, glad it will help, I've wanted to make a video series like this for a while now, awesome to see it's already helping others!

[@danwebster14]

@@Daniels_Projects I started to restore mine today but my safety valve is just spinning and won't come out, not sure how to get it out, do you have any thoughts?

[@Daniels_Projects]

@@danwebster14 Bugger, I've never had a safety valve seize on me. Is it spinning freely or is it quite tight? I got lucky with a whistle once, it turned but very tightly. I applied a bit of heat with a butane torch and it was just enough to expand the bush loose off the whistle and re-attach the solder a bit. You could try filling the boiler with white vinegar (to remove as much lime scale as possible) to give you the best chance of removing the safety valve without the bush. Depending how stuck it is, if you can cut away the seal and clean the metal surface (floss it with a piece of scotch brite or something) you might be able to apply a bit more solder to hold the bush in place, but if the safety valve is stuck well then you'll only break the solder again. Worst case scenario heat the whole safety valve up to loosen the solder and pull it out with pliers, taking the bush with it. Pull on it and twist it as you heat it. You will need to solder in a new bush after this of course. Good luck, I hope it goes well! let me know how you get on

[@MoosesWorkshop]

Very nice! Getting my first MAMOD this weekend!

[@Daniels_Projects]

Cool! How'd it go?

[@MoosesWorkshop]

@@Daniels_Projects needs new washer seals but other than that it looks good!

[@drhson8960]

Anyone wanting advice for restorations , repairs and where to obtain parts, there is loads of advice in our community. The unofficial mamod and other steam forum. Mamod themselves are on there too.

[@geoffwalker888]

Thanks for the video - I've just got a T1 - I think it must be a pretty old one as the firebox is held together by tiny brass nuts & bolts, and the back of the firebox is attached to the boiler by brass nuts onto short brass studs coming out of the back wall of the boiler, not blind rivets. The rivets on the plate that mounts to the top of the firebox are unlike any others I've seen - they appear to be steel maybe, and flat topped......I've got to get the firebox off as the whistle had been replaced by a machine screw and the water level screw has rusted into place. Both the whistle and the water leel threaded inserts have come away when I tried to unscrew them, and they are just spinning in the boiler, so I'll need to solder fresh threaded inserts into the boiler.

[@Daniels_Projects]

Sounds like a project! Is the canopy flat or does it have the corrugations (like mine in the video)? The Te1 was introduced Jan 1963 with nut and bolt construction (except for the solid rivets holding the engine bracket to the firebox). Sometime in 64 they introduced the corrugated roof, then late 64/early 65 I think is when they went to pop rivet construction. I've got a corrugated roof, nut and bolt construction one myself. It's in pretty nice original condition, so a bit of a shelf queen. I've never removed the solid rivets before, so I can't really help. A gentle centre punch and careful drilling would be my thoughts, or patient dremeling if you have one. Good luck!

[@alexahadi139]

Yes that’s the nut and bolt mamod, not very common and even better with a flat canopy. A KZbin channel called muddy lake engineering has loads of mamods and wilescos. Even a flat canopy nut and bolt in his collection!

[@barrymanilow2092]

Brilliant step by step disassembly. I have the "Twisty whistle syndrome" you mentioned. When are you planning to show its repair?

[@Daniels_Projects]

Thanks, I planned to do a video on it after this video series, but given that its taken me 4 months to still not even finish part two (although I am very close!) I might have to do a video on this sooner rather than later as it seems to be a common problem. Thanks for watching, Daniel.

[@barrymanilow2092]

@@Daniels_Projects Had a go anyway...not easy to take off the push-fit flywheel. The resoldering of the brass whistle collar was a pain, soldering iron not hot enough, butane burner flame too hot!

[@ggrailwaynz]

@@barrymanilow2092 Just be grateful it came out! Hopefully without too much damage to the boiler? To solder in a new bush I use a butane torch (same one in the video) and do it how Wilesco does it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/npu5mp96g8ZridE Clean and degrease both surfaces to be soldered, make a ring of solder, put together and heat. Good luck!

[@thestandardfour0699]

Great! This is very informative - Just a question: How would you attach the funnel if it were separated from the smoke box? Thanks!

[@Daniels_Projects]

I was going to experiment with soldering it back on but I don't expect that to really work. I imagine JB weld or similar will be the solution. Whatever I end up doing I will show my findings. Cheers

[@thestandardfour0699]

Ok, thanks for letting me know

[@SteamLance]

My TWO year old, TWO, SP4 has twisty whistle syndrome.

[@Daniels_Projects]

Boy that sucks! Have you managed to sort it?

[@hlh1221]

My whisle is twisted to the right it works is it twisty whisle syndrome?

[@markfarrier12]

My wife treated me for birthday.þo a TE1A,From car boot.£20.complete apart from coal box and moths burner.might renovate or just get it complete and running.like the patina.

[@drhson8960]

Mamod or Forrest classic models have those they're called a coal scuttle.

[@peterowbottom1110]

Any news on Part 3?

[@Daniels_Projects]

I was just thinking the other week I've really got to get onto this! Pulled out the box a few days ago so getting into it again. Probably not going to be March but hopefully not too long after. Thanks for watching!