10 Beginner Mistakes that are holding back your modelling - and how to avoid them

[@adamgriffiths1703]

Years ago I bought my son what was to him, the ultimate model kit. A Lancaster Bomber. When we got to the landing gear, we found the rendering of the instructions unclear to the point of being baffled as to the direction. So I treated him to the ultimate research experience. I took him along to Auckland’s MOTAT museum which has a real Lancaster on display. Explaining our conundrum to the staff we were lucky enough to be let past the barriers, right under the aircraft to photograph, then go home and properly complete the model. To him I was the best dad in the world that day.

[@MannsModelMoments]

That's fantastic! I had a similar experience at the Cosford museum in the UK with my father - only I was an adult at the time. My dad got talking to one of the staff and spoke about my interest in aircraft, and they let me sit in the cockpit of the Me 410 they have there - a great day!

[@adamgriffiths1703]

@@MannsModelMoments that’s brilliant!

[@scaldinghotcoffee3206]

I'm not crying. Just got some CA in my eye.

[@Jebotito]

you are the best dad period dude, dont sell yourself under worth

[@isctony]

@@Jebotito Well said, I was thinking the same!

[@Ensign_Cthulhu]

When I was a kid, I applied every bit of patience I had to making the best models I could. It tore my heart out that I could never match 'the best' and it all looked unsatisfying by comparison. It wasn't until I started watching youtube vids FORTY YEARS LATER that I realized what sort of equipment and knowledge the competition had. Too late, I realized I'd been working with both hands tied behind my back the whole time.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I learned the hard way - through magazines and error, but also through model clubs and some truly talented people who were happy to share their knowledge.

[@jameshoughton9319]

I think sometimes all the models in magazines and online can be an unrealistic expectation some of these people do it as a job and have lots of time to complete models and do it everyday many of us have busy life’s which means we probably don’t have the time we need I’ve found that it’s best not to compare work with others there’s always going to be someone who has more time to get things done than you and someone who also has more money it’s best to do your best and be happy with the results at the end of the day the hobby should be fun not a stress about finish

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@jameshoughton9319 having done reviews for magazines in the past, I can tell you I was never paid for it as a job, and had to complete kits in my spare time whilst working a normal job to pay the bills. In general, I think "magazine quality" models are achievable by anyone if you have a mind to - whether you want to or not is up to you, as is how you actually build kits, but it should be an informed choice, not accidental. This video is aimed at those wishing to gain the knowledge to get to that point of decision making

[@JeffJefferyUK]

I know what you mean. When I started making models in the early-mid 1970s I had no idea about what paint thinners were for. The Humbrol paint just went straight on out of the pot. For me at the time Paint thinners were just for cleaning brushes! It's a wonder I got results as good as I did. KZbin has been revelatory for me and now I'm getting back in to the hobby after stopping sometime around 1980...

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@JeffJefferyUK welcome back!

[@davidmalin5491]

I remember a young lad coming into our workshop to do job experience, he made kits, I mocked him but then he explained to me the difference between a kid building a model and the skill it needed to make the model correctly, my mindset was changed. And he put those modelling skills and detail into what he did in the workshop. He had never welded before straight off he was an awesome welder. A few years ago I had a model of a car I owned and wanted to make an exact copy, it had many mods, I remembered what he had told me used his advice and it turned out really good, I’m sure he could have done better but I was pleased with the results thanks to him.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Well props to you for having an open enough mind to accept a change of heart and to pursue the hobby!

[@HO-bndk]

Kits only require a small amount of skill to "make correctly". 🤣

[@Typexviiib]

I built models in high-school, and built one after I got out of college. I'm now in my late 30s and started modeling again. For the last 2 years I painted 35 and 75mm miniatures. I find that all that practice has really upped my model game. It taught me a lot of patience and brush control.

[@MannsModelMoments]

That's great, and I plan on doing a video in future about what modellers can learn from mini painters, as the two are often thought of completely separately

[@maevethefox5912]

@@MannsModelMoments That sounds fantastic! And like it might help me out a bit too, I was a high level miniature painter for YEARS and am just getting back in to military modeling. Everywhere I go I'm told my brush skills are pointless and that airbrush is all that matters, but ... frankly I've never used one and I am struggling with the thought of tossing 15 years of honed skill to go back to beginner level painting feels horrid. As it sits I've got a shelf of unpainted tanks because I can't convince myself to go one way or the other on them. ....at the same time I've watched some *incredible* scale model builders on here "fill in this detail with a brush" and I cringe at what they're doing, so I guess it goes both ways.

[@MannsModelMoments]

It does! I'd love to be able to hand paint at a high level, been practicing blending etc and I think model makers could learn a lot from the miniature painting scene (and vice-versa), but sadly most think they are separate communities that share nothing!

[@johnmcalpine6754]

As a kid I always wondered why using the exactly correct colours looked too bright. The answer, colour perspective! The farther away an object is the duller the colour looks. A touch of grey added to every colour can give a more authentic look to a model which appears far away even if it's sitting on your desk.

[@sirrathersplendid4825]

Yes! Desaturation is so important and yet we nearly all forget to do it. It’s the ultimate in not seeing the woods for the trees. I’m not very good at it yet but when you see models and especially human figures that are correctly desaturated it is apparent at once!

[@doggonemess1]

Very true, it took me a while to learn this. I'd mix the colors (closely enough) and then when it was painted, it looked "off". Toning the saturation down makes a huge difference. I did discover one exception to this rule, though. I built a diorama of soldiers in front of a sign and one of the soldiers was taking a picture with a cellphone. I decided since I hadn't punished myself enough that day to paint a tiny picture on the face of the phone to match the scene. I found that I had to use very bright colors to get the effect I wanted. Probably the smallest thing I've ever done, only 6mm x 2.5mm. I used a cat's whisker as a brush. I really have to upload pictures of that sometime. :)

[@patricklebeau6539]

This is a great "back to basics" video showing that there are "easy" ways of improving one's modelling and pointing that nothing can replace patience and practice. Such basic advices are so often forgotten in modelling "publications" and reviews bashing a kit and/or promoting use of aftermarket at the slightest discrepancy. IMHO, you just could have added something about avoiding damage when removing parts from the sprues.

[@xbpbat21x]

I remember being a kid trying my hand at modeling...It was so frustrating when mine looked nothing like the picture on the box. Now that I'm older, with more patience, and loads of tips and tricks at my fingertips, my models are getting better. Thanks for your videos!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks for the comment - Fortunately no evidence exists of my earliest models to incriminate me!!

[@athelwulfgalland]

I'm only just now learning to study videos like these on KZbin. The tips here were all matters I'd already figured out along the way either through trial & error or via tips from fellow modelers over the years. I need to find a good series on the equipment, maintenance & use of different types of airbrushes. I'm 45 & built my first model kit, a Snap-Tite F-4 Phantom II, at 7 years of age. It's a little late in the game for me to add the airbrush to my toolbox but it's been one I've tried to introduce twice with no success. The first was a double-action Badger my father had used for a time in making fishing lures & apparently had left the unique lacquer paint to cure inside of it. The second was a cheap Testors airbrush. I tried testing it with water from the tap just to get an idea of how to manipulate the brush for quantity of paint & how much propellant to give it. I've no idea what sort of mistake I was making or defect this airbrush had but it immediately began shooting air down into the cup with enough pressure to cause the water to jet out of the cap's ventilation hole right up to the ceiling. I was so shocked the first time I immediately stopped, looked upward & began giggling like a little boy. (I was in my mid-20s by this point in life.) No matter how I tried to articulate the controls, fiddle with the needle, disassemble the affair & reassemble it though would always repeat this unfortunate demonstration of Murphy's Law in motion. In the end I never solved the problem & as I didn't know if it was something I had done wrong or if it was a factory defect it was stowed away with the intent of figuring it out another time.

[@athelwulfgalland]

@@MannsModelMoments You are a lucky Mann (see what I did there?) I was all too eager to photograph my earliest works. Thank goodness that they were taken well before digital photos existed & I was able to avoid them ever being glimpsed by a scanner! Now all that remains of them are in the spares bin. I have very few assembled models at this point as I'm returning from a decade long hiatus due to a lack in display space. Soon before that decade long hiatus our home was burglarized & badly vandalized. At least 3/4 of my built up model kits were smashed to oblivion leaving me with approximately 3 dozen which COULD, in theory, be repaired. Now that I have a place for displaying my built kits only a half dozen of those were deemed worthwhile to keep around. Still I will likely tear those down for the spares bin once space starts to become a premium again. I've learned a considerable amount about the hobby since I started my hiatus, the research I've done in the meantime both digitally as well as in acquiring hard copy references has been considerable. Modeling technology & techniques have advanced by quite a lot in the past 10~15 years. (In my humble opinion.) By the way; You never showed us your rendition of the Karo-As 1/72 Focke-Wulf Fw-187 Falke in this video? I'm still trying to source the Special Hobby kit for less than a pair of my limbs to fill that void in my stash. Incidentally that kit came out weeks after I had started the Airmodel vacuform kit & so I set it aside indefinitely while trying to get my hands on one; Alas it went out of production before I managed to drum up the finances for it.

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@athelwulfgalland The finished model resides in one of the follow up videos Athelwulf (kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXnRoKCtaNJsbqc). I also appreciate a good play on words ;-)

[@anthonyxuereb792]

Are they beginning to look like the picture on the box? Just kidding

[@alistairhackney]

I started scale model making when i was 16 (i'm now 28), the first model i ever built was a _B-25_ It was crap, i wasn't happy with it. I still have it, well, my mum has it at hers. Now i'm "quite good" if i do say so myself. But i've now started my first Diarama. I've made everything from that _B-25,_ to an A-10 Warthog_ and other things such as bulidings. I'm quite happy with how it's coming along. As you stated, this video and videos like it would've helped back when i was starting out in 2013, but i had no internet access or anything. No one to help with the models. I don't think i'd even know about it if i hadn't got that _B-25_ for that year's Christmas.

[@Lovinburbs]

Im very young and a beginner modler i have done three airfix sets 1 my first was a failure and i had to bin now i have a "Then and now" starter set and now i know these i will try to apply them to my sets from now on

[@MannsModelMoments]

Welcome and enjoy the hobby!

[@Lovinburbs]

@@MannsModelMoments I wouldn't expect you to reply so fast on a year old video lol

[@gaagle521]

Im an experienced gen Alpha (9 years old when i started to make models now 12) that does model and have some imperfections with models thank you for these tips

[@challenger2031]

I learnt from the man who made me fall in love with modelling once again! My father who sadly left us sooner then we expected gave me the joy of modelling and the art of making a model with love and as Mann's video added, patience. I cannot tell you how grateful I was to my father that I am able to love modelling in a way that maybe was absent in my childhood, I enjoyed making it but at times I rushed it and the finish was not clean or enjoyable to look over. Modelling to my mind is a lifesaver for me. My mental health has been ramping up time over time and occasionally I just like to be in my little personal space being peaceful. But as I write this comment I just wanted to say Thank you to my dear Father who despite not being the best at times he was there for me at a time when I was at genuine rock bottom! RIP and I will continue to love the artform of Model making time and time again!! Who knows, maybe I WILL MAKE SHIPS ONE DAY!

[@billwright2811]

Preparation is key to any job. Good video, and advise. Thank you.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks for watching!

[@sirrathersplendid4825]

Couldn’t agree more. In fact I’d go further and say proper preparation is more than half of the job.

[@lyonanddebanderson4418]

As a professional model builder Mann's is spot on. The three things I would add from my 40 years of model building exact replicas is: 1. after scraping and sanding, always wipe the part down with a fast drying cleaner (I prefer fast drying lacquer thinner). 2. Take your time, never be in a rush no matter the deadline, RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH. 3. If making an exact replica, do not forget dents & scratches down to the smallest detail. I'm currently building a one of a kind Ryan PT22 1/32 scale. The model cost was $210.00, but will look identical to one of the last operational PT22's that is still flying.

[@catlady8324]

3:30 What the heck is this curvy scraping thingy tool? I love it!

[@donaldvincent]

My youngest brother and I have been building models since we were kids. I am now 55 and very experienced. To any newer model builders out there watch these videos. He is correct on every point that I have heard.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you!

[@stevesmodelbuilds5473]

Great advice! I, too, returned to the hobby at age 60, and what I'd learned as a boy and teen soon came back. Only one other thing I could add is that it helps to paint some parts first sometimes. I usually prime everything first, then detail small parts that might be hard to get at later if you just glue them in. You've got a new subscriber! 😀

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you!

[@mikehislop6482]

Hello, I'm a modeller of many years standing who is starting to lose mobility in my right hand. What is that dinky electric drill at about 2:20 you are using? I foresee a need for one in my future!

[@MannsModelMoments]

It's called a Wowstick - available through Amazon (also via my Amazon storefront in the link in the video description). A bit more about it is on the following video; kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnezp52cepaNia8

[@Rusty_Gold85]

I found the fiddly you have had to do to make antennas and landing gear in the right spot, the sanding the filling, helped me when I became a Communications technician and the finesse required repairing and connecting .40 gauge copper wiring

[@theloafnoodle804]

I remember many years ago when I was still in school, grandma bought me a Bismarck model which I built and never finished (parts were lost, paints dried and no longer exist, etc.), the model still sits on my shelf as my first ever one. I recently bought the exact model again many years later and plan on doing it again but actually taking my time now. Back then I would try to rush and finish a model in a week, now I usually spend a month or three on one to make sure I get it as close to what the real thing looks like. The best tools for me on any model are different primer colors, scalpel for cleaning mold lines and such, sand paper and green stuff. At this point my ship models would actually float with the amount of filler I use to cover holes and other gaps. I still use the same paints I used back then (buying new ones if they dry out).

[@agp11001]

Exactly what I am planning to do. Already snatched the exact same kit (Revell's 1/72 Airacobra) I started out with almost 30 years ago, and I'm interested in what I can achieve nowadays.

[@docwex]

Love your Grandma/Bismarck story! I recently bought another of the first model that my father ever built with me, which was my first model ever. Here's to hoping I can pull my son away from Minecraft long enough to build it with him someday.

[@Planehazza]

If anyone calls you a rivet counter for being helpful and productive I swear I'm gonna smack them sideways.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I must admit was a little surprised by some comments that steered that way, but thanks for the moral support Harry!

[@Planehazza]

@@MannsModelMoments sorry if ingots little heated. I'm not on this hobby currently but have spent many hours over my 35 years building scale aircraft. I see MANY people on modelling groups berating so called rivet counters with an unparalleled air of arrogance, yet I have as yet to meet a single person meeting the description of said counters. It's quite sad really. I'm a fan of Will Pattison; his work is amazing and he isn't afraid to voice his opinions, and he is never rude or dismissive to those not at his level. Yet he receives so much abuse online. People are correct. This hobby is what you make of it, and for me it's about trying to get better and be as good detailed and realistic as possible because that's what I find fun. If someone has spent 500 hours building a block 50 F-16 and attaches the intake of a block 52 for example, I'm going to point it out in a polite, constructive way because I would want to know if I had spnibcsn improve next time.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I think it's very much in the delivery. I wouldn't point out an error in someone's model that I noticed unless they invited me to comment or we got into a friendly talk and something came up that way, because I wouldn't want to detract from their happiness in what they've made. If it was in a competition I feel that's different, because that is putting your model on display and inviting people to judge it. At the end of the day, you can say the same thing respectfully, or you can be a dick about it! How you do it says everything about you, and nothing about the model or modeller!

[@jeffkeenan2360]

I've been modelling a long time. This is a fantastic look at common mistakes, something curiously missing from many modelling videos. It seems like most youtube channels assume everyone is knowledgeable about basic construction, painting, and finishing techniques. Great job at covering the things a beginner needs to know.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you for the support!

[@knightfthree]

Excellent video and some great pointers. Can you post a link for the powered micro drill you used please. Thanks in advance.

[@Nick-j3n]

where did you get the little drill at 2:19 ? i need one for my modelling

[@MannsModelMoments]

Available through my Amazon webstore (which helps out the channel at no extra cost to you)

[@Rusty_Gold85]

Big tip get a Red handle Excel blade and #2 blades . They sit in your palm and its larger for a stronger finger/palm grip when shaving facings off and cutting

[@garydaniels5495]

Thanks for the tip!

[@davideldridge4479]

Our hobby is all about having fun! Once we start judging our work but what others have, the fun is lost. Be proud of what you've created!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Not the point at all - as I've said to some other commenters who have said the same. A mistake is something unintentional, and if I make such a mistake which I then find out about later, I'll try not toi do it in the future - this video just does that before people have made them. If you're not bothered by these things, then they're not mistakes and you can have your fun regardless, but most in this hobby try to improve their skills and models, and do the best they can - that's not incompatible with having fun.

[@garydaniels5495]

@davideldridge4479 Like Fred Flintstone once said, "the first thing they need is the FUN." (emphasis mine).

[@neonlightillusion]

I'm a modeller in the gunpla scene and it's very interesting to see how easy we have it. Builders could learn alot if they took some lessons from traditional scale modelling!

[@Belgand]

It's fascinating the different challenges encountered in the various branches of what is arguably a similar hobby. Gunpla, mecha musume/character models, historical vs. fantasy/sci-fi over to miniature wargaming. It also helps to expose biases and accepted methods that are more common in a given scene for any number of reasons but could stand some infusion of new ideas. Often even simple things like paint brands: Mr. Color, Citadel, and Vallejo all produce appropriate acrylic paints but you'll find that what you paint tend to drive the brand you use even if the colors are practically identical. It's down to who has habitually serviced your market.

[@jeztaylor6308]

I started again after 35 years. Done a few now and find myself getting better with each one, patience was the first hurdle (i'm actually patient but was keen to get to the next stage of the build - if that makes sense). Getting better at painting them but found i was always hopeless at weathering, i was using oils and it's just not for me, moved over to the tamiya weather master kit's.....a bit expensive but the results are brilliant compared to my last method of oils, and like you say - just start weathering a little and build it up 👍 Doing a few tanks at the mo and always make sure i have all the accessories painted and ready to fit when the main job is done.....found if i don't do this it feels like hard work when all 'the good stuff is built' - if you get me!!!! But loving my new hobby!!!!!!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Welcome back to modelling!

[@justarandombird]

Those are some great tips! Thanks! I recently got back into building miniatures aaand well.. let's just say i made (and probably am still making) too many errors. But sometimes some light damage/imperfections can be a good thing in my opinion. Then you can pretty much say "oh yeah, that bit of damage came from the crew accidently doing a wingstrike when landing, and when repairing, they had to rush the paint job and thus, had to resort to some other type of paint" (ofc if you use weathering, that'd add to the story of said vehicle).

[@MrHrannsi]

I am a returning beginner (ehem, a middle aged fart who slapped together some plastic as a teen), and I am slowly learning the art of patience. Even now I fall into the rabbit hole of "must finish this tonight"; usually ending with a disaster, and it takes way longer to correct the mistakes than taking it slow and do it right in one go. So, patience, the most important attitude in my humble opinion, is the key to making a fine looking model.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Absolutely! Welcome back to the hobby Hrannar

[@glenchapman3899]

Yup I went through this process a couple of years ago. Now whenever I glue a couple of parts. I stop watch TV for a while, and return to what I am doing. Now the glue has had time to set up. And the overall construction is a lot more accurate

[@fingerfeller]

hello, thanks for the tips...my father served in the navy for 30 years on destroyers, old destroyers like the ww2 style/shapes and he served in vietnam swift boat /PCF... so of course i build ships, i have a few planes another builder friend sent me as gifts ( he sent a few ships and tanks as well ),,, i hope to be able to use the tips i will watch that you have posted for help with painting and weathering, filling gaps, fixing mistakes, but let me add that decals and signal flags are my worst problems , along with rigging and antenna are just miserable they snap in half so easily, hell cutting a thin antenna off the sprue can break it in half and i then i have to make my own from melting a junk sprue piece and stretch it , it rarely works, and its expensive buying two versions of the same model so i have parts for replacement... but thank you a great deal for sharing this,

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks for the comment - knowing what people struggle with means I can make videos on those topics, so great feedback!

[@LilDucker]

I've been modeling for only about 4ish years and I'm very happy with how far I've come but I defo still make some of these mistakes x-x

[@MannsModelMoments]

We all do! The important things are trying your best and enjoying the hobby, gradually improving as you go

[@ricardoroberto7054]

Totally agree about research. I spend ages collecting information before i even start. Then apply everything to scale especially paint thickness.

[@outfield1988]

Overuse of glue was my biggest problem in the beginning.

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@outfield1988 good call!

[@ohiorc5586]

I just made my 4th model I’ve made a bomber and then a f4u and then my two best so far the f14 and the p51 the p51 looks the best so far and yet the nose decals are bubbly I did my best but the whole thing looks good but if you look close I did too much weathering and some paint chips and painted the wrong part so I am trying to watch a lot before starting my f22 this really helped

[@scottbranch5603]

Thank you, great video when coming back from a long break. Excellent presentation. I felt you were sharing, instead of talking down to me.

[@D0csavage1]

Model making I believe like landscape or portrait drawing for example require an artistic flare, some might have the ability straight away others achieve that very high skill level through practice that might involve many kits ruined that what the mind envisaged the hand could not put into practice. Frustration sets in causing the person to loose interest in this fantastic hobby. I think your videos encourage those not to loose hope. The old idea that building these kits as a youngster helps that person later in life by learning to follow instructions has sort of proved correct in my experience. There is more to this hobby than gluing filling and painting.

[@dafalzonAUS]

I think the best advice is to take your time, patience, have all the right tools and not to make any short cuts because a mistake can only be done once, which will only make you frustrated, causing you to make more mistakes

[@MannsModelMoments]

Agreed

[@WTCHIMKEN]

I’m going to ars tecnica in Germany,. I recommend it because it’s an museum and model shop.

[@MiKeMiDNiTe-77]

I really enjoyed this and it was a nice bonus you using the Falke instead of an aircraft that was much more common from WW2 ie Spitfire Me109 B17 Stuka etc.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you - I do enjoy some of the less obvious choices out there, and I've always had a soft spot for the Falke (and Kurt Tank's other designs, like the Ta 154)

[@jeffdurling2167]

Thanx for the info ,l am working on first build 1/72 scale academy a10.some of the parts for landing gear and armaments are tiny I painted them on the sprue.having issues with the plastic cement properly adhering,does the paint prevent the plastic cement from bonding to the plastic,in your experience?

[@MannsModelMoments]

It will - you need bare plastic to plastic to bond properly. Extra thin cement will "burn through" the paint, but you still need styrene to styrene for a good bond. Best to scrape off contact points before gluing.

[@dominiqueros5534]

Thank you for this video, I remember my first airplane kit, airfix Me 109 G-6 in 1/72, painted with scolar colors palette, in 1980 and the followings,

[@STARDRIVE]

I did a lot of modelling starting about 6 years of age with planes, switched to RC and finally 1:25 scale cars. I even painted the dials on the dashboard, and the eyes of the 1:72 scale pilots. But over time parts fell off my models. I did use the right glue, but maybe too little or on painted surfaces. I guess that was my biggest failure, not knowing how to glue properly. I haven´t been modelling in decades; sticking to durable 1:18 die-cast cars now :)

[@somebodyoncetoldme6557]

Coming from gunpla, some of the model kit remind me of the FG and NG gunpla in term of quality, I'm surprised the difference between the quality of the runner out of the box. You can tell which company focus on polishing their product or churning out as much kit as possible. But the satisfaction from making everything fit nicely is definitely worth the hassle. My first kit is a us Nimitz and I remember enjoying hand painting the deck, something that definitely won't do on a gunpla. It's either decal or die.

[@jamesbowles3046]

It's funny to watch this video tonight as I had just pulled out a box of models that I built 25 years ago they don't compare with the stuff that I build now because I've learned so much but it did not take too long to refurbish them a new lease on life

[@MannsModelMoments]

Good to hear!

[@Glicksman1]

I always spend more time "correcting" a kit than building it. Hasegawa, Tamiya, Airfix, Wing Nuts, Eduard, Accurate Miniatures, Revell-Monogram and other high-end kit manufacturers kits are usually very well made. Still, some scraping, sanding, thinning and super-detailing is usually required to make a good-looking scale model. For me and for most modelers, the creation of the suspension of disbelief is the goal. I want my models to look as much like miniaturized real airplanes, or real airplanes seen from a distance, as possible. All of your tips here will help modelers to achieve this.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you! I hope they do help some people, some of the time at leastt!

[@Glicksman1]

@@MannsModelMoments I think they will. Thanks again.

[@ardshielcomplex8917]

Im struggling with why the scaled down plastic engines don't work in aircraft kits, like a fool I believed that Sir Peter Jacksons Wingnuts aircraft kits were as close to realistic as humanely possible so WTF don't the Engines make engine noises once they're assembled ?

[@davidgoff5883]

Fantastic video! Well done - a must for beginners

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank yoU!

[@nastynate4916]

Oh man this hit me HARD, my early aircraft models looked EXACTLY like this one

[@MannsModelMoments]

So did mine - actually, probably MUCH worse if I'm honest!!

[@KleineErbse]

Interesting video, thank you. One question: where can I buy the mini drill? (at 2:17)

[@mickangio16]

I, too, try to detail my models and projects as best to my ability. That also contributes to the fact that I have a number of unfinished projects haha. I HAVE built some models straight out of the box without getting carried away with detail and they came out ok but there's a big difference between ok and incredible. At least THEY got finished, though🤗. I liked how you talked about "researching the subject". When I get involved with a project I try to find out everything I can about it. It makes it so much more fun and interesting. Unfortunately, I don't have the best memory to recall ALL of the facts about the subject but I pretty much remember the important ones years later when admiring one of my works. Sometimes I will even go back and re-research and enjoy all over again! I can appreciate the example model in the video although it may not have been built by a real expert builder. I'm very sure that the person was enjoying working on their project and I think that is what it's really all about. I hope to see your rendition of the example model from the video.👍

[@MannsModelMoments]

I think as long as you achieve what you set out to - whether that be an OOTB build or a "best you can" build, or just to learn about something or model a subject you love - then you're good. I share that "analysis paralysis" sometimes with kits - not wanting to start it until I have everything set out as I want to in my mind - but then I get distracted onto another project and the cycle continues! Sometimes a basic OOTB build is quite liberating!

[@zanderalberto3576]

Do you recommend assembling the model first or painting? I used to do scale modeling like 3 years ago and now just picking it up again ALSO, how do you recommend buying paints? do you just go out and get all of the recommended in the box/manual?

[@MannsModelMoments]

Painting before/after assembly depends on subject (aircraft and cars require some painting before assembly, tanks and ships generally do not) and personal preference. As for buying paints - see my "Stop painting by numbers" video on the subject. kzbin.info/www/bejne/foe5hXygnpd3bqc

[@jdlamb4212]

fun to slap them together but to do it "right" I feel you gotta paint stuff like the cockpit, engines, bombs, canopies etc. separately. it's hard on patience so I'll do a gundam or cheap model quickly inbetween serious attempts for fun.

[@Incrediblebowlesmodels]

When I was younger I had 0 patience since returning I have taken my time bought paints that are for the subject I'm doing and have even started weathering

[@MannsModelMoments]

Great to hear! Enjoy it!

[@michaelwayne2995]

Learning airbrushing was and still is the hardest part for me . I build mainly 1/72 and 1/48 planes and I really suck a free hand camouflage so I make up paper masks and I weather my model with with acrylic paint water and dish soap. It's cheap and easy just mix it up , I use bottle caps from 16 Oz. Buds and brush it on to the panel lines , let dry and gentle wipe it off with a moistened q- tip , so far I haven't had much luck with oils

[@roberthenderson2580]

A real help would be joining a model club if possible. Usually the old hands are happy to give tips and advice on advancing your modeling skills.

[@MannsModelMoments]

That's true, though I know that these are often few and far between - for example the closest to me is 45 mins drive away - making it inaccessible for anyone without a car, and a higher investment in both time and money (given the current price of fuel!). If you're lucky enough to have one nearby, then it's a good idea!

[@CGYenjoyer]

Bought an A-10A warthog from Revell today! New to model building! Gonna try

[@grugbug4313]

Solid! Top KEK! Peace be with you.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks!

[@TheFluffy47]

Great video , very informative. What brand is that electric drill you was drilling out the gun barrels with ??

[@MannsModelMoments]

It's a Wowstick drill, available here amzn.to/3Uuol10 - if you purchase through the link I get a small kickback as it's my Amazon Associates link

[@southpaw5483]

Thank you for sharing and the content; What is the mini electric pin-vise/drill? Brand name/manufacturer? thx.

[@MannsModelMoments]

It's a Wowstick drill, available here amzn.to/3Uuol10 - if you purchase through the link I get a small kickback as it's my Amazon Associates link

[@southpaw5483]

@@MannsModelMoments thx

[@The_Modeling_Underdog]

A great guide for beginners. I'm more of a builder than a painter. Had to step up the game when I started scratch-building gliders. And I can say this. Those who want to improve and need the means to do so, will find the way to achieve both goals. It didn't pain me to see the Karo-AS Falke in all of its 1990s short-run glory. Built too many an Amodel and MPM kits back in the day to feel horrified at all. As you said, kits need patience and care. This sort of kits are especially fulfilling once completed. Cheers.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you, and very familiar with Amodel and MPM too!

[@brucerfchannel3829]

So how do you fill the gaps for bad mouldings ?

[@MannsModelMoments]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gISYfYdsiMyWZ68

[@glennbarton3938]

Thanks , loads of good advice for a beginner 😊

[@tehscope9422]

My 2 cent worth is per fit the parts and pre paint we didn't have spray paint for plastic back then , I did make the mistake of using automotive spray only to watch the parts melt (dissolve) before my eyes. I still have a 1/8 scale Jaguar XKE in the box I bought new in 1974 it was on sale for $25 reg $75 when I got home there was no direction and that modal was very complex so it still sits in my rec-room.

[@sirrathersplendid4825]

I believe the problem is the propellant used in the spray. It normally dissipates very quickly once it leaves the spraycan, indeed before the spray travels about 20cm, which is why the manufacturers always recommend spraying from 25cm or further. Also making short sweeps with the can prevents the spray from globbing up which would allow the propellant to travel further.

[@Kivas_Fajo]

My problem is...I don't seem to be able to make the right plan. Meaning, when paint what, when put together what and when to wait. I'm completely clueless.

[@mr31337]

Thank you so much! I was having difficulty sleeping, but this video fixed that. 😴

[@MannsModelMoments]

Well glad it helped you - I don't mind how my videos help people, even if it is curing insomnia...

[@kenburney5244]

Where did you get that amazing drill? I need this.

[@jonbell3020]

Me too.....

[@MannsModelMoments]

The drill is a Wowstick drill - it'll feature in an upcoming video, but if you want one you can order them on Amazon here - amzn.to/3T9hdFZ

[@kenburney5244]

@@MannsModelMoments Thanks it really is something I have been looking for.

[@blaisepascal3804]

do i need primer for paint? also do i need to use gloss for decals?

[@MannsModelMoments]

You don't "need" either of these,but both will make your life easier! Some people don't prime, some don't use gloss for decals, but I'd recommend you start from using both until you're at a point where you feel you don't need one or other of them.

[@stevenmynes6212]

I would like to suggest that beginners make their first model more of a learning model. Only use this first model to self teach model part prep and assembly. Trying to focus on doing everything can allow for missing what need done. It allows you to redo problem areas, even if you get ahead a few step before you catch the problem. When you've one over the model to completion, I personally would give it a light spray paint coat, to finish it like a silhouette. Just a thought.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I actually have a video on building your first model, and then I come back to it in a later video to improve on it, because I don't try to make it perfect at the start, I chose a model that's relatively easy to build but with some requirement for filling etc (as these are important skills to learn). kzbin.info/www/bejne/opLKfadofpybf68

[@kiredor1414]

I once had a model kit from a Mercedes scala 1 on 1 but the it dit not fit well. Maybe it was the glue

[@ruskiwaffle1991]

I have started modeling almost a year ago with bad Chinese made models and I used this very thin piece of sandpaper to get the cockpit of an F-111 to fit with the rest of the fuselage.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Welcome to the hobby!

[@jimmytgoose476]

Most of the good models are Chinese as well....

[@Andrei-wtm]

Hello im new and i donts know what should i use to cut the plastics?

[@MannsModelMoments]

Try checking out my video on the essential beginners modellers tools you should have....

[@tomthounaojam345]

I just like to add a point, this is a wonderful video. However, the key to scale modelling is the joy of building the kit, some maybe are bad some may be good but if you enjoy building it, that is all that matters.

[@MannsModelMoments]

And a mistake is something you don't intend to do - if you're a beginner and do some of these unintentionally and you're disappointed in the end result, it affects your enjoyment. That's what the video is for.

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@hayloft3834 No, I really haven't (though you have!) - as you'd have seen from my other replies to some similar comments. A mistake is something unintentional, and pointing that possibility before it is done is helpful, and aids enjoyment. If you want to stick a model together with glue coming out the sides and paint it pink because that's what you enjoy - that's a choice you've made and more power to you. This video isn't for those people, its aimed at how to avoid unintentional mistakes and rectify them if they happen. This and "enjoyment" are not mutually exclusive - I never mentioned rivet counting (or similar) at any point

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@hayloft3834 no, you still don't get it. I never said you HAVE to do these to enjoy modelling - I put the video out for those modellers who make UNINTENDED mistakes (as demonstrated here) so they can avoid/correct them if they wish. If you don't want to do it, and still enjoy modelling, then that's up to you - but most modellers DO actually want to improve and enjoy that process.

[@ghostlymerc]

Quick question, what are the sanding tools you're using??

[@Chevsilverado]

In terms of model “rendering”, indeed painting a colour scheme and calling it good and expecting the shadows to do the shading work for you won’t look realistic. The reason was sort of stated in the video but I heard a great explanation of physically why it happens. So in a 1/35th scale model for example, any overhangs, panel lines, air intakes, and any place where shadows are, they’re only 1/35 the size and depth as the real thing. But, light reflects off the paint in the same way as a big aircraft leading to a lot of light scattering relative to these shaded area sizes. So where you’d expect dark shadow you see very light shadow or almost no shadow. So imagine you take the light source and make it 1/35th the intensity, then the light should scatter properly on the 1/35th model. But it would be very dark overall, so imagine you crank up the exposure of your eyes to brighten what you’re looking at and the model should look photorealistic, with shadows in the right places and with the right intensity. If you do the same comparison in 3D rendering software with a good lighting system it actually works. You can take a full sized object and light it accordingly, scale down the object and it looks like a toy. Lower the light intensity and bump up camera exposure and then the resulting scene will look almost identical to the full size thing. Anyway, obviously it’s not possible to dim the lights and make your eyes have higher exposure, so you paint these shadows in using washes and other methods. Furthermore, since the model has a much smaller surface area than the real thing, the paint job will appear much darker than in real life and any details can be easily lost as the smallness of the model and details plays an optical illusion on the eyes. Less light is reflected from the model and less light hits your eyes. Painting a model with colours a few shades lighter will make your model look less like a toy and more like the real thing you see in photos. It’s hard to explain as it’s an optical illusion and perception issue but lighter models do look more in scale. Perfectly paint matched colours look odd and toylike. Just thought it was interesting that the issue was caused with the scale model not having scale lighting.

[@MannsModelMoments]

You're quite correct, though this video was not the place to go so in-depth, I may well do a video more on the detail here in the future.

[@garyrhonamahon3177]

Badly painted frames of canopies always let a model down, so don't paint them. Try this, cut a length of everyday masking paint and stick it on your cutting mat or a sheet of glass, paint it and then carefully cut very thin strips the width of your canopy frame Cut them longer than you need this makes them easier to handle. Place them on your framing and cut off the excess. Paint with future or equivalent clear coat and you have very sharp tidy framing. I hope this makes sense and is of use to new modellers.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I actually use a similar method in my follow-up video, but using decal film since masking tape doesn't always conform to all canopies, is difficult to use on highly framed canopies and the glue can degrade over time

[@liamgray9805]

Thanks for sharing very helpful

[@MannsModelMoments]

Glad it helped! 🙂

[@justincooper5189]

I work on the model cars. Currently, A 67 impala,69 corvette, Christine, and a few others. What I keep dealing with is glue that dries too fast, or not fast enough. Some of the parts need to dry quickly, so they stay in alignment, when other parts can take their time. I'm on a small budget, so multiple glue types are not something I can fully afford. Any recommendations? Thanks from Philadelphia.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Unfortunately these are two opposite requirements. At one end you have pure solvent (like Tamiya Extra Thin), and then companies put additives (frequently polystyrene) to "thicken" the glue and retard evaporation of the solvent. The best compromise I'd say could be something like Tamiya "standard" liquid cement - use a little and you're not getting much additive so the solvent should evaporate relatively quickly, for a longer working time use more. Alternatively, go for the pure solvent and decant a little into another jar and add a little (1%) of sprue shavings and let them dissolve to create a thicker cement - that way you have two different glues for the price of one!

[@curtisrobinson9696]

common mistake is paint stirring. improperly stirred enamel paint will clump and peel off while brushing/blending a large area

[@timcarson8146]

Great video. Any info on that electric pin vise would be appreciated. :)

[@MannsModelMoments]

It's a Wowstick drill, available here amzn.to/3Uuol10 - if you purchase through the link I get a small kickback as it's my Amazon Associates link

[@timcarson8146]

@@MannsModelMoments Thanks! I will hang on to the link...just in case. :D

[@bobz1736]

Great reminders thanks. Ps. What was that small electric drill you used?

[@MannsModelMoments]

This is a Wowstick, you can find a link to it through my Amazon Storefront in the "Advanced Items" section

[@michaelcooke2559]

Very nice tips. Thanks for sharing.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks for watching!

[@model-tube3917]

Nice video - great help to the new and returning modelers!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Glad it was helpful!

[@PatrickLameront]

Great video! Another tip for people getting into the hobby. DILUTE YOUR FLAT BASE!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Great tip!

[@michaeljoesmith3977]

I was 6 when I received my first plastic model plane. It was a B58 Hustler and a kit way above my no existent skill level. That one turned out terrible. Next an F7U Cutlass and it was quite easy to build .Thus began my love of plastic model airplanes. A life long passion.

[@MannsModelMoments]

You always remember your first kit, eh? :-D

[@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579]

Excellent points, especially regarding out-of-scale parts and removal of seams or parting lines. Although it seems like more work, I often find it easier in the long run to replace some plastic parts with other materials. An example is brass wire or rod for things like grab handles and trailer landing gear cranks, and aluminum tube for exhaust stacks on trucks. Not only does aluminum tube not have a seam, it polishes to a chrome like finish for a true win-win!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Totally agree - replacement parts don't have to be expensive after-market items to look good

[@datamek]

Micro drill machine witha are You using...what it is and where to buy it?

[@MannsModelMoments]

It's a Wowstick drill, available here amzn.to/3Uuol10 - if you purchase through the link I get a small kickback as it's my Amazon Associates link

[@lancerevell5979]

$70..... nice tool but too rich for my wallet! Many of us Auld Pharts are on a limited income. My pin vise drill works fine.

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@lancerevell5979 It's sometimes on offer - I didn't pay $70 for mine!

[@topouzidd]

No.1 problem: buying low quality model kits (they usually include a brush and 3-4 paints as well). No.2 problem: using a paint straight from the bottle without thinning it. I always bought Italery model kits because they were constantly better quality than other brands of the same price. My models never looks a mess like the example you showed here. But I constantly had another problem and I’d like some help with that. Whenever I used modeling glue (mr cement model glue or whatever) near clear plastics like the cockpit glass or car windows, the clear plastic turned white at the edges near the glue contact point, and sometimes it developed a haze throughout the glass panel due to cement vapors on the inside of the model (for example in the whole cockpit glass). How can we have clear transparent plastics on our models? Is there another type of glue that should be used for those pieces?

[@andylewis8669]

As a new subscriber I found your latest clip very helpful 👍 thank you

[@MannsModelMoments]

Glad it helped! Thanks for the sub!

[@johnmoran8805]

Thanks Alex, good vid.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks!

[@josemanuelperezbautista3597]

Excellent Hints! I'll appreciate some information about the drinking tool you used in the video (2'20'). Best Regards!

[@Flyingfortress_b-17]

Thanks alot man it really helps 🙏

[@MannsModelMoments]

You're welcome!

[@Flyingfortress_b-17]

@@MannsModelMoments :D

[@petert9097]

A very helpful video for beginners to modelling. Just one criticism: because they are German words, the "e" on the end of "Focke" and "Falke" should be pronounced. It's called a schwa. As in Porsche, Elbe, Goethe, etc.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I've already addressed this in another comment below, but be aware that many native English speakers in the UK Anglicise many of these words - Porsche being very commonly pronounced "Porsch" here

[@petert9097]

@@MannsModelMoments I know, but let's face it, they shouldn't.

[@executivedirector7467]

@@petert9097 Hmm, sure, strictly speaking that's true. However, it's a bit of a PITA that people seemingly expect precise German pronunciation....but there's no similar expectation for Russian, Italian or French words. So odd that our community expects people to properly pronounce "Focke" or "Jagdpanzer" but laughs of the inability to pronounce "Automitrailleuse" or "Rodina".

[@annoyingbstard9407]

@@petert9097 And for Germans…squirrel is pronounced squirrel. NOT skwiwaw.

[@antoniocarlosrossicarvalho3885]

what is the best material to fill spaces between models?! Second kit..

[@MannsModelMoments]

Sprue goo - check out my last hobby video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnezp52cepaNia8

[@ukaszbanasiak4787]

It is so pleasant English to hear!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you!

[@unpretty7112]

I'd mention using scalemates. If you are starting, you should avoid kits from 70-80s or even 90s because they can be terrible and just reboxed as new ones. And even if you prefer a factory new look on your models like me, a bit of panel lining still does the job.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I have a short on that exactly! kzbin.info1Bf9Wtm5VxU?feature=share

[@martinplanes2053]

A very enjoyable video and brought back my very early years of model making. I can confirm that Patience, and preparation are the key to a satisfying outcome to your builds. If you have a passion for a subject, be it aircraft, tanks, motorbikes or whatever that will urge you to research your subject to get it right. Most importantly build for you and not worry about what other people think. You will know in your own mind if it's a good job or not! I look forward to seeing the re-build!! 😀

[@MannsModelMoments]

Absolutely!

[@OidHunter]

Thank you! I recently finished an Airfix FW-190 but didn't get round to putting the nose cone decal on.. Any idea how to do it without ruining it? I have an identical kit to make and I'm a perfectionist with mild ocd 😅

[@MannsModelMoments]

You should be able to add the decal to the spinner without any issues - it's just a matter of care and taking your time

[@robertmulhall1634]

If I hade a time machine, be interesting to go back to my first models, 30 odd years ago,just to see how far kits and my ability has come.

[@MannsModelMoments]

I had a website in the mid-90s on my modelling, so I still have some photos of my earlier kits (on actual 35mm film, no less!) - maybe I'll do a video on some "now and then" comparisons....

[@sirrathersplendid4825]

Still have most of mine. Many of the aircraft and Airfix cars 🚗 vanished mysteriously when we moved, but most of the 1/72 stuff survived. Quite shocking to look at some of the models I was so proud of when aged 13! Then again, they were assembled with half-blunt knives, no files, and crappy tube glue and painted with Humbrol enamels!

[@samuel-kf7go]

I just start this hobby few month ago and found some old models ,sir are yellowed decals from 70s still usable?

[@MannsModelMoments]

If they're yellowed, I'd say no - the kit decals I use here show what happens when you do!

[@rustykilt]

As with many here, I used to do a lot of kits as a kid, and after 40 years, have taken up the hobby again. I purchased the 1/48 trumpeter U-BOAT ( no gradual start for me!) and have been at it for 3 years during moves. The lesson here, is I walk away from it when unhappy with my result, sometimes considering it for a week to achieve the look i want. I have spent a month on the conning tower trying to get the right look, and still not satisfied. The point is, there was a time i just wanted a project finished with little regard for the finer points of the craft, whereas now, it has to be the best i can do.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Quite a return to the hobby there!

[@IndyBrainWave]

Irony Alert at 5:46: an "absence of haste" is necessary for good results - as the video progresses at 5x speed! 😆 Seriously, this is a good video, and the lack of patience can be presented as the root cause of just about every modelling error I've made.

[@MannsModelMoments]

[@mikelaponte2832]

We are getting ready to move and I found of its in the basement from 23 yeas ago. Once we are in te new house, I will be picking up the hobby again. I am hoping my eyes are still up to the challenge of the 1/72 kits.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Make sure to share your build with us!

[@badgerattoadhall]

Before watching video. In primary school in the late 1980a and early 1990a my problem: 1. BIG BIG BIG one, the glass canopy gluing it on and having it haze/fog up. 2. The decals. The internet was not a thing then, and I was young anyways. In my early 40s and I kinda want to get back in the hobby.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Couple of good subjects for videos right there! I think these are common problems